Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, August 28
2001 Volume 01 : Number
592
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 28 Aug 2001 07:16:48 -0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch
Those of you with TT's and and who are currently using or
who have used RPS
turbo clutches, can you respond to me privately as to
your
impression/satisfaction with the product. Thanks in
advance
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:46:42
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
This question is in regards to my 95 3000GT
VR-4.
Lately I've noticed that my car doesn't have the same pull as it
used to.
At the same time I've also noticed that my idle has been acting
funny
lately. At times it idles a bit high, somewhere around
800-900rpms. Also
sometimes after a bit of driving the car will idle at
2000 rpms. And on
several occassions I noticed after a bit of driving
the rpms will fluctuate
between 1000 - 1500 rpms at idle.
After
researching this problem it would seem that my problem may be a bad
ISC (idle
servo controller). Anyone agree or disagree?
Also my main question
is if my ISC is bad, will this affect overall
performance in anyway.
Just trying to figure out if I can attribute a bad
ISC to the sluggishness
I've been noticing with my car lately.
Thanks in advance,
Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:03:58
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
You are right to be suspicious of the
ISC, but before you invest in a new
one, check for leaks in the intake
system. A leak to ambient air will
simulate the same symptoms, lack of
power, hunting for idl (real idle speed
with ac off is 750 rpm +/- 50,
default idle speed if the ECU can't get a
stable idle is 1500 rpm)
Check for loose hoses, deteriorated vacuum lines,
and holes in the
intercoolers, which someone else described as a cause of
similar
problems.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Michael Bulaon [SMTP:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28,
2001 9:47 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
>
> This question is in
regards to my 95 3000GT VR-4.
>
> Lately I've noticed that my car
doesn't have the same pull as it used to.
> At the same time I've also
noticed that my idle has been acting funny
> lately. At times it
idles a bit high, somewhere around 800-900rpms. Also
> sometimes
after a bit of driving the car will idle at 2000 rpms. And on
>
several occassions I noticed after a bit of driving the rpms will
>
fluctuate
> between 1000 - 1500 rpms at idle.
>
> After
researching this problem it would seem that my problem may be a bad
> ISC
(idle servo controller). Anyone agree or disagree?
>
> Also
my main question is if my ISC is bad, will this affect overall
>
performance in anyway. Just trying to figure out if I can attribute a
bad
> ISC to the sluggishness I've been noticing with my car
lately.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:57:29
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Advice on getting more horsepower.
> just got my car few
months ago, it's a 3000gt twin
> turbo. Would like to modify to get more
horsepower.
> I've already got an aftermarket exhaust (JASMA) and
>
a K&N air intake. Could I get some advice on handy
> mods. Also
what's a safe boost to have on these
> cars.
A boost controller
would be the next logical step, along with a good "real"
boost gauge where
you can see boost spikes very easily. Most of the 3/S
owners prefer the
electronic boost controllers like Blitz, Apex-i, HKS, etc.
The best safe
boost is the stock setting, but most of us agree that 14 psi
is reasonably
safe in most cases.
Depends on your definition of "safe"...
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:23:39
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
> Lately I've noticed that my car
doesn't have the same pull as it used to.
> At the same time I've also
noticed that my idle has been acting funny
> lately. At times it
idles a bit high, somewhere around 800-900rpms. Also
> sometimes
after a bit of driving the car will idle at 2000 rpms. And on
>
several occassions I noticed after a bit of driving the rpms
will
fluctuate
> between 1000 - 1500 rpms at idle.
> After
researching this problem it would seem that my problem may be a bad
> ISC
(idle servo controller). Anyone agree or disagree?
If you have more
than just an idle RPM problem then it is either not the ISC
or you've got a
combination of problems. Step 1 is to try to reset the base
idle set
screw - instructions are in the service manual on how to disable
the ISC in
order to do this properly. After that, if it still hunts around
it
could be the TPS adjustment or also the ISC. There are ways to
test
both, in the service manuals. There's also a troubleshooting
flowchart for
this problem as well.
If you have aftermarket fuel
control, improper settings there can cause this
sort of problem as
well.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:29:44
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
Ok, I'm fairly certain that I don't
have any leaks. I was checking for
leaks when I had a problem with the
car missing. There was a leak between
the intake manifold and
plenum. I was only registering -39, -40 at idle
according to my Blitz
DSBC. I then fixed the leak and now register
around -50 to -46 at
idle. I haven't pressure tested for leaks since then
but the missing
problem has gone away.
Would you happen to know if it is indeed a bad
ISC, that it could in anyway
be causing my car's poor acceleration and
performance.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles
E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Michael Bulaon'" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 28, 2001 11:03 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad ISC
question....?
> You are right to be suspicious of the ISC, but
before you invest in a new
> one, check for leaks in the intake
system. A leak to ambient air will
> simulate the same symptoms,
lack of power, hunting for idl (real idle
speed
> with ac off is 750
rpm +/- 50, default idle speed if the ECU can't get a
> stable idle is
1500 rpm) Check for loose hoses, deteriorated vacuum
lines,
> and
holes in the intercoolers, which someone else described as a cause of
>
similar problems.
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:33:49
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
> If you have more than just an idle
RPM problem then it is either not the
ISC
> or you've got a combination
of problems. Step 1 is to try to reset the
base
> idle set screw
- instructions are in the service manual on how to disable
> the ISC in
order to do this properly. After that, if it still hunts
around
>
it could be the TPS adjustment or also the ISC. There are ways to
test
> both, in the service manuals. There's also a troubleshooting
flowchart
for
> this problem as well.
What's also weird is that
it seldom hunts around. It hasn't done it for the
past two day but did
on fri and sat.
> If you have aftermarket fuel control, improper
settings there can cause
this
> sort of problem as
well.
Actually I do and bigger injectors. However I haven't touched
any of the
settings since the car felt right.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:32:39
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
>> If you have aftermarket fuel
control, improper settings
>> there can cause this sort of problem as
well.
> Actually I do and bigger injectors. However I haven't
> touched any of the settings since the car felt right.
Then it
might be time to tweak the settings... ISC only stabilizes idle -
it
can't cause an acceleration problem.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:49:11
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Pulling Left at High Speeds
1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo with 71K
miles. Symptoms- After EVERY 4
wheel alignment within a week the car is out
of align. Almost always pulling
left. At 65 MPH car will "float". Sometimes
middle, sometimes pulls left and
sometimes pulls right. This behavior changes
every few miles. At 80 MPH and
above car consistently pulls left. Faster I go
harder it pulls. I'm taking
it to a mechanic very soon and just wanted some
ideas as to what the problem
may be.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:06:48
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
New tires? Tires
balanced? There is such a thing as Radial Pull (or push)
where the
radial belts of the tire are manufactured out of place. I had a
tire
replaced for this reason.
If this is an alignment problem, you should be
experiencing uneven tire
wear.
Any noises? Like from the front
wheel bearings?
How long has it been doing this? Hit a curb or
pothole lately?
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Payne, Scott [SMTP:SPayne@hunton.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 28, 2001 11:49 AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
>
> 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin
Turbo with 71K miles. Symptoms- After EVERY 4
> wheel alignment within a
week the car is out of align. Almost always
> pulling
> left. At 65
MPH car will "float". Sometimes middle, sometimes pulls left
> and
>
sometimes pulls right. This behavior changes every few miles. At 80 MPH
>
and
> above car consistently pulls left. Faster I go harder it pulls. I'm
taking
> it to a mechanic very soon and just wanted some ideas as to what
the
> problem
> may be.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:04:38
-0400
From: "Willard R. Semple" <
beowulf@del.net>
Subject: Team3S: Help
Needed (Fuel and Ignition)
Hello All,
My Stealth TT has had
Starting problems for several weeks. It would not
start easily when sitting
in the sun for a few hours. And when it did
start, it would cut off several
times before it would run normally.
Yesterday, it would not start at all. On
checking it out, it was found
that the fuel pump was not working, and that
there was no ignition. Has
anyone had a similar problem, and/or can someone
help me with this.
thanks,
Will
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:06:33
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
Problem has been happening for about
1 year (I dont drive it often), the
tires are very good Michelin Pilot's and
have about 6,000 miles on them. Yes
they are wearing in wierd places. Car has
not hit anything. Around a year
ago I heard a very odd noise that sounded
like a metal pole held against
metal fan blades would sound. Very load noise,
but I didnt attribute the
noise to the condition at that time. Now I think it
is related.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001
1:07 PM
To: 'Payne, Scott'; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling
Left at High Speeds
New tires? Tires balanced? There is
such a thing as Radial Pull (or push)
where the radial belts of the tire are
manufactured out of place. I had a
tire replaced for this reason.
If this is an alignment problem, you should be experiencing uneven
tire
wear.
Any noises? Like from the front wheel
bearings?
How long has it been doing this? Hit a curb or pothole
lately?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Payne, Scott [SMTP:SPayne@hunton.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001
11:49 AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Pulling Left at
High Speeds
>
> 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo with 71K miles.
Symptoms- After EVERY 4
> wheel alignment within a week the car is out of
align. Almost always
> pulling
> left. At 65 MPH car will "float".
Sometimes middle, sometimes pulls left
> and
> sometimes pulls
right. This behavior changes every few miles. At 80 MPH
> and
>
above car consistently pulls left. Faster I go harder it pulls. I'm
taking
> it to a mechanic very soon and just wanted some ideas as to what
the
> problem
> may be.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:19:24
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
How does the steering feel?
Is it hard to steer? Is there a lot of free
play in the steering wheel?
When it wanders on the road, does it pull the
steering wheel or do you just
have to apply a little steering bias to
maintain a straight
course?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Payne, Scott
[SMTP:SPayne@hunton.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 12:07 PM
>
To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High
Speeds
>
> Problem has been happening for about 1 year (I dont
drive it often), the
> tires are very good Michelin Pilot's and have about
6,000 miles on them.
> Yes
> they are wearing in wierd places. Car
has not hit anything. Around a year
> ago I heard a very odd noise that
sounded like a metal pole held against
> metal fan blades would sound.
Very load noise, but I didnt attribute the
> noise to the condition at
that time. Now I think it is related.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28,
2001 1:07 PM
> To: 'Payne, Scott'; Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
>
>
> New tires?
Tires balanced? There is such a thing as Radial Pull (or
>
push)
> where the radial belts of the tire are manufactured out of
place. I had a
> tire replaced for this reason.
>
> If
this is an alignment problem, you should be experiencing uneven tire
>
wear.
>
> Any noises? Like from the front wheel
bearings?
>
> How long has it been doing this? Hit a curb or
pothole lately?
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:13:51
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
VERy hard to steer. I dont really
feel any free play, but I'm constantly
holding the wheel with pressure to the
right. Im usually at around 80 mph.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001
1:19 PM
To: 'Payne, Scott'; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling
Left at High Speeds
How does the steering feel? Is it hard to
steer? Is there a lot of free
play in the steering wheel? When it
wanders on the road, does it pull the
steering wheel or do you just have to
apply a little steering bias to
maintain a straight course?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Payne, Scott
[SMTP:SPayne@hunton.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 12:07 PM
>
To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High
Speeds
>
> Problem has been happening for about 1 year (I dont
drive it often), the
> tires are very good Michelin Pilot's and have about
6,000 miles on them.
> Yes
> they are wearing in wierd places. Car
has not hit anything. Around a year
> ago I heard a very odd noise that
sounded like a metal pole held against
> metal fan blades would sound.
Very load noise, but I didnt attribute the
> noise to the condition at
that time. Now I think it is related.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28,
2001 1:07 PM
> To: 'Payne, Scott'; Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
>
>
> New tires?
Tires balanced? There is such a thing as Radial Pull (or
>
push)
> where the radial belts of the tire are manufactured out of
place. I had a
> tire replaced for this reason.
>
> If
this is an alignment problem, you should be experiencing uneven tire
>
wear.
>
> Any noises? Like from the front wheel
bearings?
>
> How long has it been doing this? Hit a curb or
pothole lately?
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:27:04
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
Only VR4 I have driven that was
difficult to turn was Jim Floyd's. He had a
bad bushing on one lower
arm ball joint, I think. He also had a dust cover
that was blown out on one
tie rod end. Did you check the power steering
fluid level? There is
some sort of rack and pinion steering gear box, but
haven't had to get into
that yet.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Payne, Scott
[SMTP:SPayne@hunton.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 12:14 PM
>
To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High
Speeds
>
> VERy hard to steer. I dont really feel any free play,
but I'm constantly
> holding the wheel with pressure to the right. Im
usually at around 80 mph.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:29:46
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
Power steering level is good. I have
suspected control arm bearings, but
have not had them inspected yet. Tie rod
I had not considered but will now.
Also I have often thought that the noise I
heard was somehow related to the
rack and pinion steering. I'm getting a
little nervous driving it and have
to get it into the shop.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001
1:27 PM
To: 'Payne, Scott'; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling
Left at High Speeds
Only VR4 I have driven that was difficult to turn
was Jim Floyd's. He had a
bad bushing on one lower arm ball joint, I
think. He also had a dust cover
that was blown out on one tie rod end.
Did you check the power steering
fluid level? There is some sort of rack and
pinion steering gear box, but
haven't had to get into that
yet.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:42:02
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
Don't know where you live, but I
would suggest finding a GOOD alignment
shop, a specialty place, not just a
tire place that does four wheel
alignments.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Payne, Scott [SMTP:SPayne@hunton.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 28, 2001 12:30 PM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
>
> Power steering level is
good. I have suspected control arm bearings, but
> have not had them
inspected yet. Tie rod I had not considered but will
> now.
> Also I
have often thought that the noise I heard was somehow related to
>
the
> rack and pinion steering. I'm getting a little nervous driving it
and have
> to get it into the shop.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:43:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ISC question....?
>> ... ISC only stabilizes
idle - it can't cause an
>> acceleration problem.
Those that
datalog their cars will see that the ISC steps increase
when accelerating, or
even just quickly revving the engine in
neutral. I am not sure that a bad ISC
would cause an acceleration
problem, but it is involved when accelerating.
A simple test for the person with the problem would be to just
unplug
the ISC electrical connector and see if there is a difference.
Of
course, our ECM may balk at no feedback at all from the ISC (the +5V
is
supplied by the ECM and it knows when a device is missing). I have
never
tried this by the way; I have always just checked the
resistance on the ISC
terminals to check condition.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:44:44
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
I live near Charlottesville,
Virginia. You wouldn't suggest taking it to
Mitsu or Dodge shop?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001
1:42 PM
To: 'Payne, Scott'; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pulling
Left at High Speeds
Don't know where you live, but I would suggest
finding a GOOD alignment
shop, a specialty place, not just a tire place that
does four wheel
alignments.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:52:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help Needed (Fuel and Ignition)
Will,
Are you sure the
fuel pump was not working or are you sure there was
no fuel flowing? The ECM
tells the pump to flow and the plugs to
fire. If some conditions occur, such
as no CAS signal because it is
unplugged or malfunctioning, the ECM will not
supply voltage to the
fuel pump or fire the plugs.
Test the fuel pump
by connecting its check terminal (near the
battery) to the positive battery
terminal (ignition switch off). This
supplies juice directly to the pump
wires. Now check for flow or
listen for operation. Your service manual shows
which terminal. Don't
use the timing check terminal or tach terminal! It's
the plug that
dangles near the solenoids that you always wondered if it's
supposed
to be connected to something. :)
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-timingterminal.jpgJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Willard R. Semple" <
beowulf@del.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 28, 2001 11:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: Help Needed (Fuel and
Ignition)
Hello All,
My Stealth TT has had Starting problems for
several weeks. It would
not start easily when sitting in the sun for a few
hours. And when it
did start, it would cut off several times before it would
run
normally. Yesterday, it would not start at all. On checking it out,
it
was found that the fuel pump was not working, and that there was
no ignition.
Has anyone had a similar problem, and/or can someone
help me with this.
thanks,
Will
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:05:11
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
Depends on the quality of your
experience with the local dealerships, mine
hasn't been that good. They
charge an exhorbitant amount, they love to
replace big assemblies instead of
fixing components, and they aren't real
swift with
troubleshooting. I had one of mine in two different dealerships
(and a
tire alignment shop), before a Body Shop guy I trust told me I had a
broken
strut, which I replaced fixing the problem.
If it's under extended
warranty, maybe I would take it to the dealer, or for
timing belt replacement
or something like that.
Maybe the Dodge Dealer in Charlottesville has a
good suspension shop.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Payne, Scott [SMTP:SPayne@hunton.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 28, 2001 12:45 PM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
>
> I live near
Charlottesville, Virginia. You wouldn't suggest taking it to
> Mitsu or
Dodge shop?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:06:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
Payne,
Check the
insulators. My car acted similarly. The strut is positioned
by the bearing in
the middle of the insulator (also called top plate
or bearing plate or mount)
- the 3 bolts you see around the black cap
connect the insulator to the body.
When the bearing wears, the
steering is biased (mine pulled in the direction
of the last turn).
Replacements are about $52 each (list) if the dealer has
them in
stock. Look at item 13 (they call it a mount) on the far-right
column
on my web image below.
http://www.geocities.com/stealthman92/mitchell/parts-10.gifAftermarket
ones are available at the same or higher cost, but stay
away from these. The
ones I got cause the front to sit 3/4" higher
(compensated for by the GC
spring kit). Pics at the end of my web
page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-gc-springs.htmStrut
R&R info below. An alignment is not required if you R&R the
struts
carefully. I quit having mine checked after the last two R&Rs
caused no
change in alignment as checked by the shop.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-shockremoval.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
To: "Team3S
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 28, 2001 10:49 AM
Subject: Team3S: Pulling Left at High
Speeds
1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo with 71K miles. Symptoms-
After
EVERY 4 wheel alignment within a week the car is out of align.
Almost
always pulling left. At 65 MPH car will "float". Sometimes
middle,
sometimes pulls left and sometimes pulls right. This behavior
changes
every few miles. At 80 MPH and above car consistently pulls
left.
Faster I go harder it pulls. I'm taking it to a mechanic very
soon
and just wanted some ideas as to what the problem may
be.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:27:59
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
Hey Scott,
This sounds
like the common problem with any car with wide front tires.
Does this
happen on completly smooth roads or only on "rutty" roads. What I
mean
by "rutty" is roads where there are distinct grooves in the road where
the
left and right tires most often travel. Since these grooves are
concave, and your tires are flat, your tires will tend to want to stear
towards one side or the other. This will happen when your not
perfectly
centered in these grooves. The easiest way to test this is
fine a brand new
road, or one that is perfectly smooth. If your car
drives straight then and
not on other worn down roads, then this might be
it.
Certain brands of tires are more square on the edges, and the more
square
and the wider the size (ie. 245mm) the more likely you'll have the
"rutty"
road problem. Stock Yokohamas are notorious for this, but BF
Goodrich Comp
T/As don't. I now have Toyo Proxes, which are square
cornered tires and of
course they like to push on rutty roads. Good
thing Minnesota has decent
roads, so I don't experience it too often.
I feel sorry for Rich and the
other Iowa residents out there.
;)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: "Payne,
Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
>To: "Team3S
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
>Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:49:11
-0400
>
>1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo with 71K miles. Symptoms-
After EVERY 4
>wheel alignment within a week the car is out of align.
Almost always
>pulling
>left. At 65 MPH car will "float". Sometimes
middle, sometimes pulls left
>and
>sometimes pulls right. This
behavior changes every few miles. At 80 MPH and
>above car consistently
pulls left. Faster I go harder it pulls. I'm taking
>it to a mechanic very
soon and just wanted some ideas as to what the
>problem
>may
be.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:44:58
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pulling Left at High Speeds
. Good thing Minnesota has
decent
>roads, so I don't experience it too often. I feel sorry for
Rich and the
>other Iowa residents out there. ;)
>
How did
Iowa get dragged into this?
Iowa is not the end of the world, but I can see
it from here. It's called
"Minnesota."
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:40:30
-0400
From: "Adam Kuhn" <
amkuhn@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale: 1995 3000GT Caracas Red Base Model
Hello All,
Well,
I have finally decided to do it...due to the recent purchase of my new
2001
Nissan Pathfinder SE, I have decided to sell my 1995 3000GT Caracas Red
Base
Model. I plan to save up my money and purchase a 1994 Dodge Stealth
R/T
Twin Turbo Black on Black when I find it. Basically it comes down
to
this...before I bought my Pathfinder, the 3000GT was the only reliable car
I
had (also had a Minivan) but now that I have the truck, the car just sits
in
my garage under the car cover...basically wasting my money because I
was
planning on selling it when I found the Stealth TT I wanted anyway...so
here
is the info on it (as if you all don't know it anyway;):
It is a
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Base Model...Caracas Red...3.0L DOHC Engine
with 222HP
and 205lb-ft Torque (and it can move)...I have a K&N Fuel
Injection
Performance Kit (FIPK - replaces the stock air intake system) that
I
purchased to install on my car but never did, cost me $150 plus...will
be
willing to get rid of it for $95 with the car...or I can sell it to
someone
else later. Infinity Sound System with Tape Deck and 6 Disk
Trunk Mounted
CD Changer and electric antenna. I added a custom trunk
mounted subwoofer
to the sound system that sounds great but I can easily
remove it...Also,
when I first purchased the car I had a Viper Alarm System
installed, came
with remote lock/unlock...5 Speed Manual Transmission...Cloth
Seats (minor
tear in Driver's seat from getting in and out)...All options
working
perfectly...50% on tires...front Bra (have 3 bra sets...2 in good
condition,
on in fair condition) and cheap car cover (kept in garage!)...just
over
80,000 miles. It had a full 60,000 mile tune up right after I
bought it (at
60,000 miles just over 2 years ago). I have checked
carfax on it and found
no problems...will try and find the paper to show you
if you want...have
gone to kbb.com and rated my car excellent, with 80,000
miles...you can go
and see what it gave me. Since I am in no real need
to sell the car...just
don't drive it anymore after purchasing my truck...I
will be asking $10,500
OBO for it...but willing to hear all offers...let me
know if you are
interested. Also, I do have the factory repair manuals
for 1992-1996 3000GT
models (Service Manual for Electrical and Chassis and
Body) that I might
consider selling as well...I might keep them for use with
my Stealth after I
purchase it. The Car runs perfect...no problems
electrically, the only
things I know that are wrong with the car are a few
rock chips on the paint
and 3-5 minor scratches on the rest of the car (will
check out thoroughly if
anyone is interested). Due to a jerk
hit-and-run driver that put his tow
hitch into the front of my car, the front
bumper cover has been replaced.
Very professional job...can't really tell,
but I want to disclose
everything. One week in Philadelphia and he hit
me...I caught him though
and made him pay!!! If anyone is interested I
am in the Philadelphia
area...please email me privately at
amkuhn@earthlink.net for
more
information and some pictures. I am borrowing a friends digital
camera this
weekend so I can take some requests as well. Thanks
again!! I hate to give
up my car but I was going to anyway to purchase
the TT...so might as well
save the money for the TT!
Very
Respectfully
Adam Kuhn
1995 Caracas Red 3000GT Base
2001 Nissan
Pathfinder SE
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#592
***************************************
