Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, August 23
2001 Volume 01 : Number
587
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Aug 2001 22:58:01 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: CQ, CQ, calling CQ
I seem to be off the list. Threads are just
whizzing by that I've never
seen before. Stillen downpipes for example, and
only two or three messages
a day. I'm not getting a dozen messages from Flash
every day, so I'm
beginning to think there is something wrong.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 23:38:43
-0500
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
OK,
Installed the K&N with out a hitch, in
fact first install of one and it
took like 30 minutes. Guess 1.) I was luck
2.) its all downhill from here
:).... Anyhow I read Flash's reply on the cost
and the problems with the 4
bolts. So I figured I'd jot down my notes on what
I did and maybe it will
help some one.
1.) Clean around the old air
filter (Did this with the aid of compressed
air).
2.) Disconnect battery
(I didn't but then I was lucky this time).
3.) Loosen the Clamp at the back
of the MAS.
4.) Unattach the MAS from the Wiring Harness and unclip the top
of the
filter from the base.
5.) Pull the Top of the air filter box and
the MAS out at the same time.
6.) remove the NASTY air filter that Wal-Mart
says they check but with all
the crap jammed in mine I don't think they have
EVER checked it (Note to
self: Never take anything to Wal-Mart again).
7.)
Using a 10mm socket and a long extension remove the two bolts and the
one
nut. Retain all the nuts bolt and washers as you will need them during
the
installation of the FIPK.
8.) With everything removed take the MAS and top
Filter box into the
house/garage where you have a table and good
lighting.
9.) Use the 10mm and long extension to remove the 4 bolts holding
the MAS
to the Top of the filter box.
10.) Attach the K&N adapter to
the MAS using the stock gasket and the two
shorter bolts in the top of the
arrangement.
11.) OK here I was lucky, I used the two longer bolts and
attached to two L
brackets so the bend in each bracket was so that they would
form a " / \ "
type arrangement (Very exaggerated at the bend is
slight on each L bracket.)
Now tighten the lower bolts, but leave it just
loose enough so that you can
make adjustments when installing in the
car.
12.) Now I put the HUGE clamp on the air filter and snugged it down so
that
I wouldn't be twisting the screwdriver for ever all bent up under the
hood.
13.) Back under the hood you need to insert the MAS back into the
Intake
hose, then the right "L" bracket goes on the stud on the wheel well,
and the
left one will need to be attached with one of the stock bolts. Be
sure to
use the stock washers or if you choose pretty new ones.
14.) Now
tighten the Clamp on the Back of the MAS.
15.) Using the 10mm socket tighten
the two lower bolts attaching the filter
adapter to the MAS.
16.) Tighten
the stud and Nut holding the L brackets to the wheel well
(10mm).
17.)
Attach the MAS back to the wiring harness (I did forget this until I
started
it).
18.) Attach Filter to Adapter and tighten.
19.) Re-attach the
Battery.
20.) Start car listen for air leaks etc.
Well I noticed a
little more noise, detected the "honk" as the BOV dumped
air to the intake
system when shifting under hard acceleration, and it seems
to pull much
better. I don't know if that's just me or not but I think I
have more power
:)...... Anyhow I did it all in the dark, so no pics, but
hopefully on my
next project I'll take some and post them to my web site ...
Was thinking of
doing the Big Red upgrade but I'm going to have to save my
pennies for a
while to get that, think for now I'll have to go with Cryoed
rotors, RS4's
and Motul brake fluid, think I saw a kit with all that not too
long
ago.
Eric C. 92 VR4 -K&N FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 23:49:03
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cooking recipes
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 15:08:30
-0400
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
>
Technically (to conform to the rules and to discourage new
people
from
> posting non-technical posts) this will help us see what
engines are
running
> hotter or if those with hood scoops have cooler
temperatures under
the hood.
> Very non-scientific I agree but worth a
shot.
>
> An example recipe should
include:
> * Food you are cooking and any ingredients or
brand name
> * Time you leave it under the
hood
> * How far you drive with it
there
> * How fast you drive
> *
Where you leave it (on the plenum, on the front manifold,
etc.)
> * How you attach it (lay it there, bungee cord,
rope, etc.)
We had a teeny Weber grill, and 6 people... either someone
was gonna
have some cold steaks, or we had to buy a bigger grill
;)
Option 3 popped up just in time. Our guest just came back from a
run
with his 91 AWD Talon. He popped the hood, and I noticed the
exhaust
manifold glowing a dull red. He backed it out of the garage, and
we
promptly put 2 steaks individually wrapped in aluminum foil, and
cooked
for about 20 minutes. After about 20 minutes, a probe was
inserted, and read
about 175 degrees farenhiet in each steak.
Car idled down for 20 minutes,
no driving was performed in fear of
steak juice catching stuff on fire. We
would blip the throttle a bit
just to get more heat out of it, and most of
the time the hood was
closed. Oh, and his A/C fan was removed, as well as his
heat shields.
You MIGHT be able to do ONE steak on a 3/S manifold in a
similar
fashion. Baked potatoes might be another option as well
(again,
wrapped in aluminum foil).
Juiciest steaks (that aren't still
bleeding) that I have ever had. We
joked about seasoning it with some Mobil 1
instead of A-1, but thought
better of it, and enjoyed our masterpieces (which
the wives were
thoroughly disgusted by ;)
Vinny Singh
http://www.ecanfix.com/ - Your Chicagoland
IT/IS solution provider
http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - 3/S Service
manuals on CD & Keychains!
(new)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 11:21:14
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: 6 speed
gear box wanted
I wan't to buy:
6 speed gear box (even falty is
interesting as long as housing is intact)
Tranfer case for 6 speed gear box
(cast iron not alu)
Rear differential
Shifter assembley and
cables.
For sale: A perfectly working (no grind etc) 5 speed gear box
with two broken tranfer case mounts. Perfect parts donator.
Please
contact me privately
vr4@bahnhof.seBest
regards,
Mikael Kenson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 08:35:00
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
> 6.) remove the NASTY air filter that
Wal-Mart says they
> check but with all the crap jammed in mine I don't
think they
> have EVER checked it (Note to self: Never take anything
to
> Wal-Mart again).
You are taking your VR4 to Wal-Mart???
Brave soul!!!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 09:11:03
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Which downpipe?
I am considering ordering either an ATR downpipe
with test pipe or the
Stillen downpipe (from Diablo). Both are about the same
price.
The Stillen does not have a test pipe. It simply eliminates the
main cat.
What happens if I need to put a cat on to pass an inspection or
sell the
car? Can the Stillen still accommodate a cat?
Any opinions on
which performs better: Stillen or ATR?
Any other opinions on Stillen v
ATR?
Rich/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 09:21:34
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Which downpipe?
Rich,
The ATR does not have a flex
section, the stillen does as well as removes
the front precat...I think that
these are the main differences.
The flex section and precat eliminator
has sold me on the stillen.
If you save your stock dp and cat, couldn't
you just put them back on for
emission testing or the sale of your
car?
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>>What
happens if I need to put a cat on to pass an inspection or sell the
>car?
Can the Stillen still accommodate a cat?
>
>Any opinions on which
performs better: Stillen or ATR?
>
>Any other opinions on Stillen v
ATR?
>
>Rich/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 10:06:28
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New road course
There is a new MidAmerica Motorplex road course
being built just south of
Omaha.
We should start planning a
3000GT/Stealth racer's gathering there for 2002,
because this one is within
easier reach of folks in Chicago, Milwaukee (SJ
and Jack T) and Minneapolis
(Oskar and Curt), plus the crew from Colorado
(Jim), Omaha (Mike), and Cedar
Rapids (Cathy, my daughter, and me). It's a
long haul for Chuck in Houston,
but it gives him an excuse to visit his
son, Mike, who is stationed in Omaha.
For Flash from Pittsburgh, it's
probably the same distance as Topeka.
Maybe we can expand the Fabulous Heartland Park Five to a
Tremendous Ten
sometime in 2002.
Can you imagine TEN of us out there,
harassing the M3s, 911s and NSXes? Whoa!
Go here to see a map:
http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/diagram.htmOpen
track events are already scheduled for all of 2002, and a list is
posted on
the site.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 10:39:11
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New road course
Rich,
What's the timetable for the
track completion? Mike is up for reassignment
at the end of May next
year.
Chuck
Oh yeah, maybe I should just check the link,
duh?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 10:06
AM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: New road course
>
> There is a new MidAmerica
Motorplex road course being built just south of
> Omaha.
>
>
We should start planning a 3000GT/Stealth racer's gathering there for
>
2002,
> because this one is within easier reach of folks in Chicago,
Milwaukee (SJ
> and Jack T) and Minneapolis (Oskar and Curt), plus the
crew from Colorado
> (Jim), Omaha (Mike), and Cedar Rapids (Cathy, my
daughter, and me). It's a
> long haul for Chuck in Houston, but it gives
him an excuse to visit his
> son, Mike, who is stationed in Omaha. For
Flash from Pittsburgh, it's
> probably the same distance as Topeka.
>
> Maybe we can expand the Fabulous Heartland Park Five to
a Tremendous Ten
> sometime in 2002.
>
> Can you imagine TEN
of us out there, harassing the M3s, 911s and NSXes?
> Whoa!
>
> Go here to see a map:
http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/diagram.htm>
Open track events are already scheduled for all of 2002, and a list is
>
posted on the site.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 10:42:33
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New road course
Looks like a porsche club event in early to
mid may. Three days implies an
Instructor's school. They don't
say which region is running the event.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent:
Thursday, August 23, 2001 10:06 AM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: New road course
>
> There is a new MidAmerica
Motorplex road course being built just south of
> Omaha.
>
>
We should start planning a 3000GT/Stealth racer's gathering there for
>
2002,
> because this one is within easier reach of folks in Chicago,
Milwaukee (SJ
> and Jack T) and Minneapolis (Oskar and Curt), plus the
crew from Colorado
> (Jim), Omaha (Mike), and Cedar Rapids (Cathy, my
daughter, and me). It's a
> long haul for Chuck in Houston, but it gives
him an excuse to visit his
> son, Mike, who is stationed in Omaha. For
Flash from Pittsburgh, it's
> probably the same distance as Topeka.
>
> Maybe we can expand the Fabulous Heartland Park Five to
a Tremendous Ten
> sometime in 2002.
>
> Can you imagine TEN
of us out there, harassing the M3s, 911s and NSXes?
> Whoa!
>
> Go here to see a map:
http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/diagram.htm>
Open track events are already scheduled for all of 2002, and a list is
>
posted on the site.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 14:09:16
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer Case Confusion
[ I'm in the process of tracking
down a ]
[ small oil leak in my transfer case ]
[ and/or
transaxle. ]
I've come across a few confusing things, and I'm wondering
whether anyone
else has noticed this.
Note: If you don't have a
service manual handy, you may want to glance at
Jeff Lucius's page to see the
diagrams I'm talking about (thanks, Jeff!)
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htmYou
can see my transfer case here:
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/TC2.jpghttp://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/TC1.jpg1)
Are all the transfer cases for the '91-'93 (5-speed) cars the same,
or are
there two different transfer cases for the 5-speed cars? I think
the
answer is that they're different as of '93, but I'm beginning to
wonder...
2) Are the '93 and '94+ transfer cases the same, or did they
change
them [again?] in '94? There are only two pictures of the
transfer cases in
the service manual, one for '92 and one for '93+.
3)
Is the picture in the service manual for the <from 1993
models>
accurate for the 94+ transfer cases? Mine doesn't look
anything like the
one in the picture! The drain plug is on the bottom
in a similar position
to the picture, but there is NO oil level check plug,
and the filler plug is
on the side (towards the front of the car) of the
transfer case! Has anyone
with a 94+ (mine is a 95) car looked at their
transfer case? Does it match
the '93+ picture from the service
manual? I'm totally confused.
4) Further, Jeff's page says that the
93+ TC takes 0.3L of fluid, while
my service manual says 0.6L (and it takes
between 0.6 and 0.75L to fill it).
What's going on here?
5) My
transfer case seemed to leak a little MORE after I filled it, and
then it
lessened as I drove the car more. Since it seemed to take a little
over
0.6L to fill it, I'm wondering if the "fill it to 11mm below the filler
plug"
rule applies to the '94+ transfer cases and not the '91-'92. I
remember
someone saying that there was a vent on the top of the TC and that
if you
over-filled it, it would leak out there. It seems that my leak could
be
coming from either above the TC or at the junction of the TC and
transaxle
(maybe it's the seal).
Argh... comments?
- --Erik
'95
VR-4 with undocumented transfer case
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 16:19:10
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Which downpipe?
Some turbo kits also eliminate the precats and the
stillen would not
work with as well.
Mark Wendlandt wrote:
>
> Rich,
>
> The ATR does not have a flex section, the
stillen does as well as removes
> the front precat...I think that these
are the main differences.
>
> The flex section and precat
eliminator has sold me on the stillen.
>
> If you save your stock
dp and cat, couldn't you just put them back on for
> emission testing or
the sale of your car?
>
> Mark Wendlandt
> '91RT/TT
>
> >From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
>>What happens if I need to put a cat on to pass an inspection or sell
the
> >car? Can the Stillen still accommodate a cat?
>
>
> >Any opinions on which performs better: Stillen or ATR?
>
>
> >Any other opinions on Stillen v ATR?
> >
>
>Rich/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 21:32:39
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: CAM
upgrade
Hello all,
Just received my reground cams from Kelford
Camtech. My new specs are In
280 deg Ex 280 deg, lift In 0.230" Ex
0.210". This should easily allow
8k RPM with no bottom end
sacrifice.
Here is what I have learned:
I found 3 sources to
regrind CAMS for our cars:
GIWASA
Kelford
Scheider Cams
I
decided on Kelford due to cost and experience.
Here is what they can
do:
I didn't want to take my cams out for obvious reasons and wanted to
save
some stock setting cams. Kelford has a grind kit advertised on
their
site for our cars. Japanese imports are the most common cars in NZ
and
the 3000 GTO kit is their most common one! They can even source
cams
their to save the cost of shipping your cams to them. The
currency
exchange rate is very favorable so it cost me:
$560 NZ for
sourced cams
$520 NZ reprofiled and lash caps
$196 shipping
This was
only $550 US for the whole deal!
The regrind kit works well with the
stock ECU and they advertise
approximately 10% increase in performance
in the mid to top end.
They can also hard overlay the cams for much bigger
profiles, but engine
management is required at this stage. The charge for the
hard overlay is
$1300NZ. The hard overlay will work on the factory ECU but is
likely to
result in rough running at the low end and idle has to be raised
to
about 1200 RPM. The factory management system dosn't handle the
pulsing
caused by extra overlap well. This kit allows more power at same
revs,
but the tighter lobe centers hurt the bottom end making the power
curve
more peaked. The overlay is a hard material (60 Rockwell) welded
onto
the original lobes and re-profiled.
The kit grind pulls and extra
1k RPM with everything else stock which
allows you to run right to the
limiter without need of early shifting.
They like to customize grinds based
upon the mods you are running for
optimal performance.
Schneider
dosn't have any experience with our cars but will regrind for
$75 US a
peice.
GIWASA also dosn't have much experience with our cars but
would
reprofile based upon individual specs and mods Price is $1100 for
work
and treatment.
You can reach Kelford at
team@kelford.co.nz or check out their
website.
They were just bought out by Crane or someone big in this area,
Can't
recall who now.
Happy Camming!
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#587
***************************************
