Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, August 21
2001 Volume 01 : Number
585
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:56:23 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Use cooked R4S pads on the street?
Again, you should keep the
brake calipers the same street and track. Only
change (if you like) to
race rotors and race pads at the track.
The problem on removing the rotor
is that you have to retorque the caliper
correctly and doing that time and
again gets tiring which is why I kept race
rotors on for the street since the
street pads will not make it warp
(supposedly). That also lets me see
if the rotors are warped well before a
track event rather than at the Tech
inspection when it is too late to fix.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and Big
Reds
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Sent: Monday,
August 20, 2001 12:49 PM
Ok, that's what I've done - the PF cryo'd rotors
are safely boxed and placed
flat on a shelf in my garage. Any special
storing instructions? The used
R4S pads are also boxed. Putting
the stock brakes back on took all of about
45 minutes, and I was taking my
time :) BTW, I have stock pads on the rear
(used at the track, too),
and they don't seem to wear much at all. I missed
my R4S pads on the
St. Helens drive this weekend - they have a noticeably
better coefficient of
friction...
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with cryo front rotors
(warped) and previous R4-S
> pads for street and track have finally worn
thin after three
> events and 6 months
Arg... *3* events! No
fair - I only got *1*. Gotta keep 'em cooler and get
the BRs...
and maybe learn how to drive =)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:55:05
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: They
sell Getrag spare parts (??)
Is this too good to be true???
I
checked the site
http://www.parts.com and
searched for some OEM parts just for fun and I found that they actually have
syncros etc listed for the 6 speed gear box !!
Here's a few
examples...
Manual Transaxle - W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, 1ST Speed Synchronizer Ring,
3000 Gt, $152.84
Manual Transaxle - W/A.W.D. 6 Speed, 5TH & 6TH Gear
Synchronizer Kit, 3000 Gt, $390.20
Has anyone checked if they really can
deliver these parts?
Best regards,
Mikael Kenson
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:59:47
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Upgrade master cylinder
Did we ever decide about how to upgrade
to a larger master cylinder? I know
room is confined on a twin turbo
car but I am maxing mine out now so need an
upgrade for next season's racing
sessions.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and Big Reds
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:57:57
-0500
From: "Kyle" <
Celica@speed-racer.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock Tape Deck
I recently purchased a '93 SL (because i couldnt
find an affordable supra
:-) and i was wiring it for 2 amplifiers. I
disconnected (and removed the
battery) but when i reconnected it, the Stock
(double DIN) Deck asked for a
code..i looked in the owners manual (as there
are numbers written all over)
Punched in three of them, and none worked. I
then found a number
hand-written in the owners manual which was the actual
code. Now, my
problem is, When I turn on the deck, it reads "OFF". I was
wondering how to
get rid of that "OFF" and punch in the correct code, so my
stereo will
work.
Any help would be greatly Appreciated.
Kyle
Call
'93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:59:58
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: They
sell Getrag spare parts (??)
They even have pictures of the internals in
the gear box.
http://www.parts.com/schematics/images/mechanical/G715140.gif/Mikael
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
> Is this too good
to be true???
.... SNIP
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 10:07:49
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Use cooked R4S pads on the street?
> Again, you should keep
the brake calipers the same street and
> track. Only change (if you
like) to race rotors and race pads
> at the track.
Yeah, it'll be a
little while before the budget allows Big Reds. Stock
calipers (street
and track) for now.
> The problem on removing the rotor is that you
have to retorque
> the caliper correctly and doing that time and again
gets tiring
Um... 2 17mm bolts at 65ft-lbs, right? I just
thread 'em in there and
torque it down... am I missing
something? BTW, I assume you guys are
doing this, but when
changing pads/rotors, it makes it a LOT easier if you
turn the steering wheel
all the way to the stop on the side you're working
on - it gives you a lot
more room and it's easy to get at the caliper bolts,
even with a big 'ol
torque wrench.
> I kept race rotors on for the street ... That also
lets me see if
> the rotors are warped well before a track event
Good idea...
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:08:40
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock Tape Deck
Rumor is to leave the key in the on position,
whether you are driving
the car, or even if it's not started, but in the
"acc" position for one
hour. It should then allow you to insert the
correct code.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Kyle
Sent: Monday, August
20, 2001 11:58 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Stock Tape Deck
I recently purchased a '93 SL (because i couldnt
find an affordable
supra
:-) and i was wiring it for 2 amplifiers. I
disconnected (and removed
the
battery) but when i reconnected it, the
Stock (double DIN) Deck asked
for a
code..i looked in the owners manual
(as there are numbers written all
over)
Punched in three of them, and none
worked. I then found a number
hand-written in the owners manual which was the
actual code. Now, my
problem is, When I turn on the deck, it reads "OFF". I
was wondering how
to
get rid of that "OFF" and punch in the correct code,
so my stereo will
work.
Any help would be greatly Appreciated.
Kyle
Call
'93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 13:20:31
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Use cooked R4S pads on the street?
Yes two threaded bolts (mine
are 3/4 since they are for Big Reds) but unless
you put anti-seize on them
you will not be able to break them loose at the
track. Feel free to
pound on the stock ones all you want but an answer from
Bedell when I bought
my Big Reds and asking how hard to torque down the $7
Speed Bleeder valve ...
he said, "Torque down as tight as you want but a $7
piece of metal might
strip the threads on a $1,500 set of calipers and
render them
useless."
So I don't always want to keep torquing stuff into and out of
the Big Reds
and limit their lifespan. It is just a bit more to track
to remove the
caliper, set it on the suspension bit to not ruin the also
expensive
stainless steel braided brake lines, remove rotor, etc.
I
prefer to keep the wheel straight ahead when changing. Easier to
mate
parts since they are not angled. One less thing to do when putting
on
wheels and lowering car too. I just try to reduce the amount of
rework
sometimes.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 1:08
PM
Um... 2 17mm bolts at 65ft-lbs, right? I just thread 'em
in there and
torque it down... am I missing something? BTW,
I assume you guys are
doing this, but when changing pads/rotors, it makes it
a LOT easier if you
turn the steering wheel all the way to the stop on the
side you're working
on - it gives you a lot more room and it's easy to get at
the caliper bolts,
even with a big 'ol torque wrench.
> I kept race
rotors on for the street ... That also lets me see if
> the rotors are
warped well before a track event
Good idea...
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 13:21:27
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Upgrade master cylinder
Brake master cylinder. Clutch has
never been a problem on the track yet.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim [mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Monday,
August 20, 2001 1:10 PM
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'Subject: RE:
Team3S: Upgrade master cylinder
Brake or clutch ?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Monday, August 20, 2001 11:00 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Upgrade
master cylinder
Did we ever decide about how to upgrade to a larger
master cylinder? I know
room is confined on a twin turbo car but I am
maxing mine out now so need an
upgrade for next season's racing
sessions.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and Big Reds
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 21:11:02
+0300
From: "Oleg Reznik" <
Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Re: Team3S: They
sell Getrag spare parts (??)
Nice prices:
Center Differential &
Coupling List Price: $9,074.59 Your Price:
$8,167.13
:)))
Parts not cheap, but if tranny cost is
$3255+core, is much better buy 1-2
parts
($150-350).
Regards,
Oleg Reznik
www.3000gt.lv> They even have
pictures of the internals in the gear box.
http://www.parts.com/schematics/images/mechanical/G715140.gif>
>
/Mikael
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mikael Kenson"
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
>
> >
Is this too good to be true???
> .... SNIP
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 13:27:49
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: They sell Getrag spare parts (??)
> Nice prices:
>
Center Differential & Coupling List Price: $9,074.59 Your
> Price: $8,167.13
> :)))
>
> Parts not cheap, but if
tranny cost is $3255+core, is much
> better buy 1-2 parts
($150-350).
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Some of the parts are
insanely expensive,
but now if you need a synchro or a bearing or something
small like that at
least you can get the parts (theoretically). I'm
considering ordering
something small just to see if they can actually get the
parts or not. One
thing that caught my eye is they supposedly can get
the hydraulic top pump
for my car for about $780. Those things are
supposed to be near-impossible
to acquire nowadays.
Makes building a
3/S racecar a little less expensive of a proposition if you
can do your own
tranny rebuilds. That was the main thing preventing me from
going
all-out with a 3/S. I was going to go back to the DSM camp for
my
dragstrip car, but maybe now a 3/S is a possibility again.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:31:36
-0400
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: stupid ? 1st Gen VR4 wheels
Give that man a cee-gar!
That
is the correct answer. The orientation of the spoke angle is
different! But, believe me, it can be hard to notice!
I do not know
if this really makes a difference for brake venting, however,
as the
difference is extremely small. Other (cheaper) things could have
been
done by Mitsu to allow for better brake cooling.
-
-Dennis
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin
Franklin
>To Everyone,
>If you look closely, you will see that
the right and left wheels are
>different in that the spokes are shaped
differently. They have an edge on
>them similar to a fan blade, that is
opposite on the L/R. I believe this is
>for brake venting
purposes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 20:54:40
EDT
From:
Yogourt@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Anti lag system
some info I found on the turbo
ani-lag:
Turbo Anti lag
One of the problems associated with
turbocharged engines is the time taken
for the turbocharger to spin up to
speed and provide boost. When the engine
is accelerating the turbocharger is
spinning rapidly and making boost, but
when the gearchange takes place or
when the throttle is lifted the turbo will
slow down and boost will drop
off. The boost takes some time to get going
again which means that the
engine will drop off the power band. This time
between planting the
accelerator and boost becoming available is called
‘turbo-lag’ because
the turbo lags behind the accelerator. Some EMS systems
are able to minimise
this when the engine is backing off by firing the
mixture in the cylinder
when the exhaust valve is open. The burning gases
expand rapidly and exit
the exhaust valve at high speed instead of trying to
push the piston down,
the ‘kick’ from the exhaust keeps the turbo speed up
and minimises lag.
Generally this is only done when the engine is being
backed off, so although
the cylinder doesn’t fire properly the net affect on
the vehicles
performance is marginal, however the affect on the turbo spin
speed is quite
marked. Firing the cylinder when the exhaust valve is open
also provides
those spectacular backfiring, banging and exhaust flaming
antics seen so
frequently in the WRC turbo cars.
Paul
92RT/TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 23:08:15
-0400
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clicking/popping sound from right wheel well
Maybe the CV
joints? Does it click when you go around corners? Have you had
them
inspected? Just some suggestions.
Matt 3/Si #311
'93 R/T
'00
Intrepid
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 23:07:17
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clicking/popping sound from right wheel well
Sounds like a
ball joint.
Right, Jim?
(Jim Floyd broke his at Heartland
Park)
Could also be a wheel bearing or the brake lining wear indicator.
Don't trust suspension shops. When it comes to our cars, they don't
know
diddley.
Jack up the right front wheel.
Stick a pry bar
under, and see if you can raise the wheel any. If it
moves up and down and
makes any noise, you have a bad wheel bearing.
If the suspension moves
up and down and makes noise, it could be the ball
joint.
Failing
that, take the wheel off.
Check the wear indicator on the pads to see if
you are down to the
lining.
Check the caliper to see if anything came
loose, such as the inner pad
liners (that happened to me once). The pads have
a thin metal liner that
goes up agin the pistons. If they were not installed
properly (the pin
missed), they can slip down and hit the rotor inside and
make noise.
Check to see if the halfshaft boot is intact. If it's cut
and oozing
grease, the halfshaft might be bad.
Good
luck.
Rich
At 02:04 AM 8/21/01, you wrote:
<excerpt>Hello:
my 92 stealth r/t is making this one time
popping/clicking/snapping sound
(hard to define).
the sound is
made when just have started moving from stand still while
still at a low
speed (about 5mph) and when in motion and brakes are
first
applied
while in motion. once again, it's a one time event: just
a click and all
normal after that. a light tremble is felt in the car when
this happens.
it happens with front wheels both straight and and while
turning. it
happens in about 8 out of 10 cases.
the sound is coming
from right front wheel area from somewhere inside
(it does not sound like
it comes from brakes).
the car has been on a rack at a suspension shop.
they heard the sound and
ruled out the suspension as a source. they claimed
the sound was coming
from somewhere inside (transmission was their guess). i
don't know how
much i can trust their opinion, though.
?does anybody
have any experience or knowledge of the kind?
thank you very
much.
andrei kryjevski.
p.s. this is my 1st post to the list. i
apologize if i inadvertently
broke any rules.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:41:49
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clicking/popping sound from right wheel well
> my 92
stealth r/t is making this one time popping/clicking/
> snapping sound
(hard to define).
> the sound is made when just have started moving from
stand
> still while still at a low speed (about 5mph) and when in
>
motion and brakes are first applied while in motion.
Classic symptoms of
a worn CV joint... You'll probably need to replace it -
particularly if
it makes the clicking noise when turning. If its just a
one-time click
when first accelerating from a stop then its probably got
some life left in
it, but it'll get worse over time.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:33:31
-0500
From: "Nemisis" <
nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Spyder
Owners! Creaking from Top
Hello everyone!
Hopefully I posted
correctly this time. I just purchased a 95 VR-4 Spyder
and I had a quick
question. Is it normal to hear some "creaking" from the
hardtop when it's
raised? It doesnt seem to be effecting the seal as it's
been great through
several downpours. It's just an annoying creaking that
appears to be
coming from the rear of the top and is rather annoying! Any
way to fix this
or is it just something you have to deal with?
Thanks in advance, God
bless,
Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:45:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: stupid ? 1st Gen VR4 wheels
The follow-up question is ... how
rare are these wheels or how hard are they
to replace? If you call
anywhere they certainly will not know the
difference or try to sell four of
the same side wheel to someone.
I swear someone on the list said he had
one wheel that had a "crease" in the
middle of the spoke and the other three
had this "crease" about 2/3 to one
side on the spoke. I think Dave Best
said his dad had 96 Stealth wheels or
something that appeared somehow just a
little "different." Not sure if
these are those though.
-
-Flash!
1995 VR-4 with four identical wheels
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dg B
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 6:32 PM
Give
that man a cee-gar!
That is the correct answer. The orientation of
the spoke angle is
different! But, believe me, it can be hard to
notice!
I do not know if this really makes a difference for brake venting,
however,
as the difference is extremely small. Other (cheaper) things
could have
been done by Mitsu to allow for better brake
cooling.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:10:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: stupid ? 1st Gen VR4 wheels
You are correct, there is a
slight indentation in only one side of each
spoke on the 1st gen wheels at
the outer part. The indentation is in the
mirror image on the R or L
wheels. This is so slight that I can't imagine
it having any effect on
brake cooling whatsoever. It seems strictly
cosmetic. I was only
worried about balance, but I don't think that
matters
either.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Dg B [SMTP:dbretton@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001
5:32 PM
> To:
whietala@prodigy.net> Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: stupid ? 1st Gen VR4 wheels
>
> Give that man
a cee-gar!
>
> That is the correct answer. The orientation of
the spoke angle is
> different! But, believe me, it can be hard to
notice!
> I do not know if this really makes a difference for brake
venting,
> however,
> as the difference is extremely small.
Other (cheaper) things could have
> been done by Mitsu to allow for
better brake cooling.
>
> -Dennis
>
>
> "They
that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
>
safety
> deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin
Franklin
>
> >To Everyone,
> >If you look closely, you
will see that the right and left wheels are
> >different in that the
spokes are shaped differently. They have an edge on
> >them similar to
a fan blade, that is opposite on the L/R. I believe this
> is
>
>for brake venting purposes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:55:07
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spyder Owners! Creaking from Top
> Hopefully I posted
correctly this time. I just purchased a 95
> VR-4 Spyder and I had a
quick question. Is it normal to hear
> some "creaking" from the hardtop
when it's raised?
I'd say its typical. Mine's done it since day
1. I think the creaking is
actually the tension spring in the trunk,
but I've never really cared enough
to track it down.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 11:10:09
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: All Mitsubishi Cookout and Car Show
Hey everyone,
I wanted
to send out a reminder about the 3rd Annual, All Mitsubishi Cookout
and Car
Show, happening this Saturday, in Minneapolis, MN. This event is
open
to all Mitsubishi built sports cars. Right now there are 45 people (49
cars) signed up to come. This includes 14 3/Ses, 29 DSMs, 3 3G
Eclipses and
a few 80s Mitsus.
For $6, you enter your car into the
show and get all the food you can eat.
There will voting for different
categories and prizes given out for the
different categories. There is
also a Mitsubishi trivia contest that I do.
And prizes will be handed
out for that too. Its a lot of fun. If your even
close to
driving distance to the Twin Cities, you'll want to make this
event.
All the details are at:
http://www.mn3s.org/all_mitsubishi2001.htmllater,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 11:25:48
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All Mitsubishi Cookout and Car Show
Hope the cookout includes
category for cooking on the intake manifold plenum
and the Turbo heat
shields!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curt Gendron
[SMTP:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 11:10
AM
> To:
stealth@starnet.net;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: All Mitsubishi Cookout and Car Show
>
> Hey
everyone,
>
> I wanted to send out a reminder about the 3rd Annual,
All Mitsubishi
> Cookout
> and Car Show, happening this Saturday,
in Minneapolis, MN. This event is
> open to all Mitsubishi built
sports cars. Right now there are 45 people
> (49
> cars)
signed up to come. This includes 14 3/Ses, 29 DSMs, 3 3G Eclipses
>
and
> a few 80s Mitsus.
>
> For $6, you enter your car into
the show and get all the food you can eat.
>
> There will voting
for different categories and prizes given out for the
> different
categories. There is also a Mitsubishi trivia contest that I
>
do.
> And prizes will be handed out for that too. Its a lot
of fun. If your
> even
> close to driving distance to the
Twin Cities, you'll want to make this
> event. All the details are
at:
>
http://www.mn3s.org/all_mitsubishi2001.html>
> later,
> Curt
>
http://www.mn3s.org*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 11:13:35
-0500
From: "Ken Tallman" <
kentallman@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cheap laptop for 3/s Owners
I apologize for posting this here,
but I really want to help out my fellow
3/S owners as opposed to 'some' guy
off the street. I've got a laptop for
sale that would be great for
datalogging. Please e-mail me off the list if
interested.
P2
300mhz - IBM 560Z
128mb Ram
6 gig hard drive
New battery, and a
spare as well
External CD-rom & floppy (the 560z is lightweight, no
internals)
Windows 2000 OS (many other software titles installed as
requested)
You can see the full product specifications of the 560Z at
IBM's website.
Here's a direct link to the laptop.
http://www.pc.ibm.com/qtechinfo/LWIK-3Y5M94.html?lang=en_US&page=brand&brand=IBM+ThinkPad%7CThinkPad+560Z&family=IBM+ThinkPad%7CThinkPad+560Z&doctype=Product+information&subtype=AllSorry
if the link doesn't appear right, hotmail sucks for pasting links.
Anyway, asking $500 obo... Absolutely nothing wrong with it, just have
it
lying around doing me no good.
- -Ken
'97 Talon (EATS
V8S)
'92 Stealth RT/TT (TURBO X 2)
http://wisc.dsm.org*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 12:06:17
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: new carbotech website
http://www.carbotecheng.comfyi -
nice colors!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#585
***************************************
