Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, August 19
2001 Volume 01 : Number
583
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 18 Aug 2001 15:20:23 -0400
From: "lisa buccella" <
buccela_lisa@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team3s: Car lost acceleration
Hi Team 3s,
I recently
purchased a 93 Stealth R/T (about 63000 miles) a few weeks ago.
While
I was driving (doing about 50 mph in 4th), the RPM gauge suddenly went
to 0
and the engine sounded like it was idling. I tried to accelerate but
there was no response from the engine whatsoever. I was able to
downshift
to 3rd and 2nd and heard the engine revs go up, but the RPMs gauge
still
read 0. Once again I tried to accelerate but the engine still
did not
respond. At about 10 mph, the engine died and I coasted to a
stop. The car
did not start and I am not sure what I should check now
before I bring it to
a mechanic (I changed the engine fuse but that didn't
do anything). Any
idea as to whether it could be electronic (O2
sensor) or a fuel pump.
After this incident took place, the previous
owner indicated that the car
had never had a tune up and it has been about 2
years since the air filter
had been
changed.
Thanks,
Lisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 12:26:34
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team3s: Car lost acceleration
Lisa,
It sounds like a hose came
loose between the air box and throttle body.
Check it out and let us
know..
Wayne
At 12:20 PM 8/18/01 , lisa buccella
wrote:
>Hi Team 3s,
>
>I recently purchased a 93 Stealth R/T
(about 63000 miles) a few weeks ago.
>While I was driving (doing about 50
mph in 4th), the RPM gauge suddenly
>went to 0 and the engine sounded
like it was idling. I tried to
>accelerate but there was no
response from the engine whatsoever. I was
>able to downshift to
3rd and 2nd and heard the engine revs go up, but the
>RPMs gauge still
read 0. Once again I tried to accelerate but the engine
>still did
not respond. At about 10 mph, the engine died and I coasted to
>a
stop. The car did not start and I am not sure what I should check now
>before I bring it to a mechanic (I changed the engine fuse but that
didn't
>do anything). Any idea as to whether it could be electronic
(O2 sensor)
>or a fuel
pump.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Lisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 12:28:48
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Car wont start, please help.
Sounds to me like either the idle
servo, or the mass air sensor. If you can
keep it running by pressing the
gas pedal, it's the idle motor. If not, It
might be the Mass
air....
Wayne
At 11:29 AM 8/18/01 ,
Sportsmobile101@aol.com
wrote:
> Hi team, i drove home last night in my 92 SL and it
was working ok, but
>this morning when i tried to start it, it started but
the rpm did not get
>over 500 and then it just died. So i fugured
maybe my fuel pump had died,
>but i checked that and it is working fine, i
replaced the fuel filter just in
>case, but that didn't do
anything. Where should i start checking?? Any
>advice is
greatly appreciated. Thanx in advace.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 17:32:08
-0400
From: "mxjashogar" <
mxjashogar@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Headlights
Hello this is my first post as I just bought my first
Stealth a 1993 ES . I
have ordered the shop manual and await its arrival . My
problem is that my
headlights go off when driving at night . Dashlights stay
on but my exterior
lights shut off . If I turn off the car then re-start it
they come back on .
Every once in awhile they go back off . I've checked the
fuses under the
steering wheel all are good ?? Help appreciated in Canada
..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 15:49:44
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Headlights
Start with the easiest. Replace the headlight fuse, It may be
partly faulty
(i.e. a crack or small
break)
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 16:09:07
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re car
wont ...
It's worth having a look at the possibility of plugged
cats. Plugged pre or
main cats will do a major number on performance
and can cause engine damage
if you attempt to continue to operate the car
with them plugged. Just go to
the FAQ and follow the threads on how to drill
them out (if you want or)
if plugged, and/or put in a "test pipe"
if this is the problem...or replace
them with OEM as you see fit. Otherwise
follow other advise here as it
pertains and is forthcoming
;-))
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 20:12:06
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Headlights
> I've checked the fuses under the
>
steering wheel all are good ??
Check the fuses under the hood as
well...
Do the lights turn off and go down and close, or just turn
off?
- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N
FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
Porterfield
Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
Greddy
Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 21:20:38
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Headlights
> The lights stay up but the bulbs go out
.
Check the white wiring harness that goes to your headlight assembly.
Take it
off and clean it with alcohol. See if that helps. Good
luck.
- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N
FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
Porterfield
Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
Greddy
Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 04:24:38
GMT
From: MIHAI RAICU <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Greddy Type S BOV questions???
Hey everybody,
I finally got the
BOV that has been in my trunk for over half a year in its
proper place
(after purchasing the right adapter flanges from GT-Pro).
Unfortunately, I was not able to avoid the gear linkage as it interferes
with
putting the car in 5th gear. When I first installed it and the
car was parked,
everything was fine, but as soon as I started driving, it
did not take long for
something to move just enough so I cannot put it in
gear (5th) anymore. My
problem was that I had nowhere to tie the
Greddy Type S BOV to except the
support brackets of the K&N air
filter. If I did not tie it down, I was not
able to even put it in 1st
or 3rd, but after tieing it, it solved some of the
problems but not
all. I feel that if I just had a solid point (like on the
actual body
of the car), it would work much better, but those support brackets
are only
held in 1 spot, and it could easily give way just a few millimeters,
but
enough to cause all my problems. I just want to know where everybody else
has tied it to.
My second question is in regards to the 2
little pinhole nipples that come out
of the BOV. The hose that I
unplugged from the stock BOV, I plugged in the top
nipple, the one that sits
at a 90 degree angle and starts in the purple
region. The other nipple
I left alone and I did not use the rubber hose that
came with the kit.
I did not have to adjust the BOV at all, since the car
idled fine and
settings came out to be about the same, maybe 1~2 psi lower than
before, but
that is just a matter of retuning the boost controller. That 1~2
psi
of lower pressure, could that mean that before I was actually only running
say 13 psi, although I was reading 15 psi on my autometer gauge, because 2
psi
was leaking on the BOV, or it doesn’t mean anything since it is just a
matter
of the boost controller getting used to the new BOV.
Also, my last question of the day, which is the one that bothered me the
most.
When I took off the stock BOV, I got really dirty of oil.
When I examined the
inside of the stock BOV closer, the inside wall was
cover by a thin film of
dirty oil. There was no puddle or anything,
but enough oil to make my hand
totally black in the process of taking off
the BOV. I take it that this is not
a very good sign; but what does it
mean. Should I take the Y-Pipe off and
clean it, or do a compression
test, or any other suggestions.
If this is something serious, can
somebody let me know because I am planning on
going back to Michigan (from
California) taking a scenic route in several
weeks; the whole trip will be
about 3500 miles in 8 days, and I do not plan on
driving slow. That
also leads me to the next question weather or not I should
change the oil
somewhere in the middle of the trip since I usually change my
oil every 2000
miles with Mobil 1 Synthetic.
Any recommendation on any of the
above items will be greatly appreciated.
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-------------------
Ioan Raicu --
http://www.cs.wayne.edu/~iraicu/--
mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.eduWayne
State University --
http://www.wayne.edu/Computer Science Dept
--
http://www.cs.wayne.edu/H
S
N
L
High Speed Networking Lab --
http://hsnl.cs.wayne.edu/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 23:38:57
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV questions???
> I did not have to adjust
the BOV at all, since the car
> idled fine and settings came out to be
about the same,
> maybe 1~2 psi lower than before, but that is just
a
> matter of retuning the boost controller. That 1~2 psi
> of
lower pressure, could that mean that before I was
> actually only running
say 13 psi, although I was
> reading 15 psi on my autometer gauge, because
2 psi
> was leaking on the BOV, or it doesn't mean anything
> since
it is just a matter of the boost controller
> getting used to the new
BOV.
It means the Greddy valve is adjusted too loose and is
leaking boost. You
need to tighten it. If anything, you should
see higher boost rather than
lower boost. You were running 15 psi
before, but now you are leaking 2 psi
more than you might have been
before.
> That also leads me to the next question weather or not I
should
> change the oil somewhere in the middle of the trip since
>
I usually change my oil every 2000 miles with Mobil 1 Synthetic.
3500 miles of highway driving is probably easier on the oil than 3000
miles
of city driving... I wouldn't worry about changing it until you
get to your
destination. Just put in new oil and an OEM Mitsu filter
before you leave.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 12:47:48
-0500
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV questions???
I had the same problem with
5th. What finally worked for me was to zip type
the hose (that comes
off the flange) to the big air intake hose, so the
purpble part of the BOV
would point towards the passenger side wheel instead
of pointing down into
the linkage. I can take some pics and send them to
you if you think it
will help. You'll probably also need the zip tie you
already have too.
Also, make sure you get the hose on the flange on as far
as it will go. Good
luck!
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "MIHAI
RAICU" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Sent:
Saturday, August 18, 2001 11:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV
questions???
> Hey everybody,
>
> I finally got the
BOV that has been in my trunk for over half a year in
its
> proper
place (after purchasing the right adapter flanges from GT-Pro).
>
Unfortunately, I was not able to avoid the gear linkage as it
interferes
with
> putting the car in 5th gear. When I first
installed it and the car was
parked,
> everything was fine, but as soon
as I started driving, it did not take
long for
> something to move just
enough so I cannot put it in gear (5th) anymore.
My
> problem was that
I had nowhere to tie the Greddy Type S BOV to except the
> support
brackets of the K&N air filter. If I did not tie it down, I
was
not
> able to even put it in 1st or 3rd, but after tieing it, it
solved some of
the
> problems but not all. I feel that if I just
had a solid point (like on
the
> actual body of the car), it would work
much better, but those support
brackets
> are only held in 1 spot, and
it could easily give way just a few
millimeters,
> but enough to cause
all my problems. I just want to know where everybody
else
> has
tied it to.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 22:35:19
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Back from a drag strip
Rich,
With a downpipe, filter boost
controller, blow off valve, and new RPS
clutch, I have managed a 12.65 1/4
mile with an average 1.85 60 ft time. My
car drops off at higher speeds
and rpms cause he turbos just can not
maintain boost in this area. I am
sure that on the track, you all race
quite within this realm where a dialed
in 15psi on a boost controller will
lead to a real 10-12psi past 5000rpm
which is what the 2nd gen cars are
already supposed to make. You also
can't (IMHO) compare the slightly
heavier and differently geared 1st gens
with the 2nd gens cause boost is not
the only difference minus cosmetics the
two cars. The downpipe is probably
of minor consequence once the cats
are gutted out. My d.p. eliminated two
of the three cats, so I saw
almost 1/2 second improvement in my 1/4 mile
times with this alone.
Again, on the track the biggest difference you will
probably see btwn the BPU
car and stock car is off the line up to 100mph and
passing power when the
downshift puts you under 5000rpm. I shift at the
track at a lowly
6500rpm cause my turbos can't keep up.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Darc <
wce@telus.net>;
stealth@starnet.net <
stealth@starnet.net>;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; Philip
V. Glazatov
<
gphilip@umich.edu>
Date: Friday,
August 17, 2001 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag
strip
>>13's are really good for bone stock. And,
"almost" counts in horseshoes
but
>>not at the track. Slight
modifications in our TT's can increase horespower
>>significantly, so
slight modifications in NA's are likely to give a
>>significant
competitive edge as well. Be pleased with your times
;-))
>>
>Having followed a couple of VR4s equipped with boost
controllers around the
>track, I wonder just how much improvement there
really is. I followed Mike
>Willis around Heartland Park for many laps
and, although he pulled away
>somewhat on the straights, I was not
impressed by the difference in our
>cars. I also got to ride in Chuck
Willis' car, and was similarly not
>impressed. Of course, Chuck was
shifting at 5,000, so maybe he wasn't
>letting it come up on boost.
Finally, my daughter bought a 91 Stealth with
>a boost controller, and I
know I could smoke it if we ran side by side.
>She's still trying to
figure out the DSBC settings and doesn't have a boost
>gauge, but the
results have been disappointing (to me, anyway. She loves
>the
car).
>
>My car (94 VR4) has a K&N and Alamo intercoolers, but
is otherwise stock.
>On a damp day, with a slight misting rain, I turned a
13.5 @105 and 5.5
>0-60 on the G-Force meter (because I got great launches
with all four
>wheels spinning and then hooking up perfectly -- I could
not repeat that on
>dry pavement because I won't launch at 6000 rpm or
whatever it takes to
>break them loose)
>
>Is it possible that
my Alamo intercoolers have contributed to the
>performance of my
car? I thought that intercoolers simply let you keep
>boost for
extended periods and eliminated heat sinking in stock
>intercoolers, but
didn't actually contribute to performance.
>
>If I add a boost
controller, downpipe, and gut the cats, what performance
>gains should I
expect?
>
>Rich/old poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#583
***************************************