*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 15:28:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Hello all,

I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest link in
our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my '92 TT. I recently
helped a friend inspect his rod bearings after he developed a knock.
Number 6 had spun; the tabs were either missing or flattened; the
crank journal had been worn down by the spinning bearing.

I talked to my engine builder last night. He believes that the last
cylinders, #5 and #6, are not oiled as well as the 1st ones, #1 and
#2 near the pump. He also thinks Mitsu should have made the bearings
wider to carry the load better.

I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
are required.

What do you guys think of this idea? I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: 15 Aug 2001 15:32:28 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Supra Fuel Pump and College Station Racing

I saw that Conecelli was offering the Supra Fuel pump 23221-46110 for $170 on their DSM specials page.

http://www.partznet.com/mitsudsmclub.html

P.S.

Texas Motor Speedway is in Dallas, about 10 miles south of the Peterbilt Factory in Denton. I just drove by it last Thursday and it still there.

Charles Willis Must be and Aggie, you can tell because he called it LOVELY College Station. When I worked at Peterbilt all of my Aggie friends though that the rest of Texas was a subdiviion of College Station.

Charles if you are not an Aggie I hope I didn't offend you.

John Monnin
jkmonnin @altavista.com
1991 VR4 with NEW 4-bolt shortblock!!!
Kids don't try this at home.
engine has been re-assembled and is waiting patiently for me to drop it into the car.

Original Message Below
...>
>From: "Willis, Charles E." >cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>Subject: Team3S: Lone Star Region PCA DE Schedule for >2002

>Ladies and Gentlemen, (bad) Boys and Girls,

>The following dates have been announced for the LSR >Region High Speed
>Drivers Education events at Texas World Speedway in >lovely College Station,
>Texas for the year of our Lord 2002:

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 18:40:58 -0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

I'm glad to see I wasn't being paranoid. I've been through 2 engines in the
last 2 and a half years, both because of bearings. My new motor is using
Clevite bearings, and I plan to keep it that way. I originally planned to
do bearings every 25k, but I thought that was overkill. Maybe not :)

I can tell anyone who is thinking of doing this, it's worth it. The labor
isn't hard at all. Just time consuming. Figure 6 hours or so for the pan
removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the RTV
form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan. As far as insurance for your
motor goes, it doesn't get better (or cheaper) than this.

Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:28 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Hello all,

I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest link in
our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my '92 TT. I recently
helped a friend inspect his rod bearings after he developed a knock.
Number 6 had spun; the tabs were either missing or flattened; the
crank journal had been worn down by the spinning bearing.

I talked to my engine builder last night. He believes that the last
cylinders, #5 and #6, are not oiled as well as the 1st ones, #1 and
#2 near the pump. He also thinks Mitsu should have made the bearings
wider to carry the load better.

I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
are required.

What do you guys think of this idea? I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:39:51 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest
> link in our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my
> '92 TT. I recently helped a friend inspect his rod bearings
> after he developed a knock. Number 6 had spun; the tabs were
> either missing or flattened; the crank journal had been worn
> down by the spinning bearing.

Hmmm. I pulled mine out since I'm boring the block and such after my broken
pistons and the rod bearings actually look very good. They are slightly
worn in, but I wouldn't say the wear was abnormal at all. I'm replacing all
the bearings with new OEM Mitsu parts just because I can, but was actually
considering reusing them since they are hardly worn. Unfortunatley I don't
have pictures of the bearings and they are at the machine shop with the
block/crank/rods/pistons/heads, but I can take pictures of them when I get
my stuff back. My car has a little under 60,000 miles on it.

Mine has the 4-bolt mains, if that makes any difference.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 19:48:34 EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

What are the signs of a bearing that's got little life on it?   Are there any
signs? You've all got me thinking I should do it to mine. My engine has 20k
miles on it since it's last rebuild and I think it's time to tear it down
again and clean it up.

- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
    K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
    Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
    Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
    Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com, www.DiabloEnterprises.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:09:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> Hello all,
>
> I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest link in
> our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my '92 TT. I recently
> helped a friend inspect his rod bearings after he developed a knock.
> Number 6 had spun; the tabs were either missing or flattened; the
> crank journal had been worn down by the spinning bearing.
- ---
Honestly..this is the first ive heard of this "common problem".

> I talked to my engine builder last night. He believes that the last
> cylinders, #5 and #6, are not oiled as well as the 1st ones, #1 and
> #2 near the pump. He also thinks Mitsu should have made the bearings
> wider to carry the load better.
- ---
True, but it could be on purpose because a narrower bearing chews up less
Hp. You can gain 40-70Hp outta a motor on this fact alone. But
again..Ive never hear of this as a chronic issue before.

> I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
> bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
> regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
> fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
> requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
> first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
> and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
> set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
> are required.
>
> What do you guys think of this idea? I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
> so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).
- ---

I personally think he's stoned. Theres absolutely no reason they should be
a 'regular maintenance' item at all. Until someone comes up with a reasy
- -why- some people have seen early failure, its impossible to offer a
"solution"..unless its a WAG (wild assed guess) like this one, with an
even more wild "fix".

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:04:01 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

I swear,
If all your guys' engine builders can't build an engine that will last more
than 25k, they are either very incompetent, or ya'll are beating the crap
out of your cars. I think the "preventive" interval should be more like
80-100k for an engine that is well taken care of.....

Wayne

At 04:48 PM 8/15/01 , DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com wrote:
>My engine has 20k
>miles on it since it's last rebuild and I think it's time to tear it down
>again and clean it up.
>
>-Paul - 3Si1127

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:15:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> I can tell anyone who is thinking of doing this, it's worth it. The labor
> isn't hard at all. Just time consuming. Figure 6 hours or so for the pan
> removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the RTV
> form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan. As far as insurance for your
> motor goes, it doesn't get better (or cheaper) than this.
- ---

Even tho the procesures to get in & outta there are rather simple, the
process of -properly- doing this job is not. Cleanliness, attention to
complete anal detail, and measurements (the hardest part) are crucial.
Cranks DO wear down. After 50K miles, you cannot expect your bearings to
fit like new anymore. I dont know if mitsu offers different sizes, but on
the Toyotas I do you have a different bearing for every 1/10000th of crank
rod & main journal size. And IF there was any issue..polishing the crank
would be important as well..otherwise any defects or oshter issues
involved will still be on the old crank surfaces to disturb your precious
oil film layer.

I in -no- way belive that a "newer" bearing adds any more life than
staying on the "older" ones.

Something caused the failure to happen, and changing bearings every 25k
will do nothing to solve the actual problem.

If a bearing is being abused..it rarely takes over 2-3K to destroy it.
Theres no such thing as "light" abuse..because once damaged just a little,
they go downhill fast.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 00:37:23 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl $RTEC$" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Hmm, I have about 80k on the engine and we didn't changed the bearings when
the pistons cracked. Never had problems so far.

In my point of view the stock pistons and rings are the weakest part as
mostly the bearing problems often start after fuel and pressurized air are
reaching the crankcase.

If one is familiar with that stuff and is able to do this himself then go
for it.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
> bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
> regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
> fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
> requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
> first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
> and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
> set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
> are required.
>
> What do you guys think of this idea? I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
> so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:35:16 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheel diameter - rehash

Sorry to rehash a recent subject, but I deleted an email I meant to save.
Someone sent me a link showing recommended wheel widths given tire section
width. (eg: for 275 tire, 9" wheel recommended, etc) Anyone know where this
info can be found? I'm trying to determine the optimal wheel width for 235
and 245 tires.

Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:37:45 -0400
From: GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?

I had the same problem even though i cut the bump stops in half. I kept raising
the adjustment up until the bounce went away. Do not put any type of dust cover
over the strut rod reason being that it bunches up and takes the travel out of
your suspension.

Oleg Reznik wrote:

> Hello guys,
>
> I also installed GC month ago and also have that bouncy
> effect. I think, it's dangerous drive car with GC coilovers. I talked with
> Tein and will receive HA dampers next week. I can't drive my car, it's like
> frog.
>
> Oleg Reznik
> 3SI#0441
> www.3000gt.lv
>
> > Hi Chuck,
> >
> >    I'm afraid that you did not follow the thread correctly. Ryan was
> > referring to the stock set-up, not the GC setup. His (and my) statement
> are
> > absolutely correct.
> >
> > Notice the clip from Ryan's email below:
> >
> > *********************************
> > > > >I disagree with the idea that the stock springs might act in both
> > > > >directions. They are not "captured" in the context that they also
> work
> > >in
> > > > >tension. They would have to be physically tied to the strut top and
> > > > bottom
> > > > >seats for this to happen. They are not, they just press against them.
> > *********************************
> >
> > Notice the usage of the word "stock", not GC. Since the springs are not
> > physically "tied" to the spring perches, they cannot act against a
> rarifying
> > (sp?) action of the strut setup. In reality, the stock shocks accelerate
> > the rarification of the strut.
> >
> > Regards,
> >    Dennis
> >
> > >Dennis,
> > >
> > >That is absolutely incorrect - the maximum extension of the struts can
> > >EASILY exceed the maximum height of the springs supplied with the GC kit.
> > >All you have to do is jack up the car to see this, or look at the
> completed
> > >strut assembly with the GC installed.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 19:02:17 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel diameter - rehash

> Sorry to rehash a recent subject, but I deleted an email I meant to save.
Someone sent me a link showing recommended wheel widths given tire section
width. (eg: for 275 tire, 9" wheel recommended, etc) Anyone know where this
info can be found? I'm trying to determine the optimal wheel width for 235
and 245 tires.
> Ryan Peterson
- ------------------------

Stick with a wheel that's about the same size as the tire width. 255mm =
10", etc (do the math: there are 25.4mm to the inch). Besides the fact that
275's don't fit our cars without spacers, try to keep the tire width within
about +/- 10% of wheel width for best results. In other words, a 10" wheel
will *ideally* take between a 9" and an 11" wide tire (approximately 225 to
a 275 tire). It's been said on the list before that you can go +/- 20%, but
my alignment guy disputes that - he says 10%. In other words, according to
him, you shouldn't put a 275 tire on a 9" wheel. TireRack seems to be
somewhere in between, at around 15%, and they have a chart of which tire
widths are acceptable for a given wheel. (I think for a given wheel width,
you can go from 1/2" small to 1" bigger). For 275s, TR recommends a 9" to
11", with optimal at 9.5". For the Yoko AVS Sport, for example, here is the
URL of their sizing page:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=AVS+Sport

Best,

Forrest

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:56:55 -0500
From: "Trevor James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel diameter - rehash

275/35/18's do fit on our cars without spacers. I have Volk Racing TE-37's
with Kumho 275's on all 4 corners of my Stealth. No rubbing on any changes
in alignment are necessary. You just need a 18X9" or wider wheel with an
offset of +40mm or less. All the tire manufacturers that I could find info
from state that a 9" wide rim is safe and perfectly fine for a 275/35 but as
Bob said a 9.5" rim is "optimal". You might think they would bulge but
275/35's don't look bad at all on a 9" rim. It handles great too! The
Stealth sticks MUCH better than my VR-4 with 245/40/18 Toyo Proxies. Of
course the extra 320lbs on the VR-4 doesn't help much! :)

Trevor James
96 R/T TT
11.82@116.1
93 Octane and Street tires
97 VR-4
Bone stock...

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:05:23 -0700
From: "nwlink" <vlsgto@nwlink.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Victor,

I understand how u feel. Next time, call to speak to Jerry and NOT Kenrick.
Jerry just called me last weekend and indeed that remodeling project is
killing alot of customers. I spoke to Jerry again yesterday at about
10:15am. Try calling them around that time and u should get somebody. That
male receptionist they have is a total idiot too so don't bother leaving a
message with him.

I will call Jerry for you if I have time. Does he know u as Victor then?
What did u order again?

Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com
"Caution: You are about to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Berrios, Victor L CIV
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:34 PM
To: 'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'
Subject: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

I placed an order back in May to this company (Paid 50% $438.00) for a Kaze
Type I Wind. They said it should arrive the second week of June. I called
them the last week of June and they said it will take two more weeks (around
July 15). By the end of July, I called and e-mailed them with no success. I
have been calling and e-mailing them with no response. I even told them I
would accept any other comparable product in exchange. No response. Last
week I hear in their voice mail they were moving or relocating in the
area.????

If you were considering them for your future parts, Don't even think about
them!!! They have my money for over 3 1/2 months now!!!!!

Don't support BOZZPERFORMANCE.

Please help me on this one.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:58:21 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU problem

There are some old posts available in the archives. They talk about ECU
repair shops and DIY capacitor replacement. Here is one of them...

<<<INCLUDE
- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: Team3S: Burned ECU?
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 01:27:58 -0500
From: Vineet Singh <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
To: jim.wiseman@wcom.com
CC: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st

Foreign Auto Computer Repair   ECU 20%

15404 Plantation Oaks #2
Tampa, FL 33647 USA
Phone: 813-977-5365 Phone: 813-977-8505 FAX: 813-977-8505

E-mail: acorbin@prodigy.net Web: http://foreignecurepair.com/ (This site
looks DiSgUsTiNg!)

ECU's and TCU's,most units in stock,including hard to find e-prom units for
1st Gen turbo DSMs. Rebuild and return service. Competitive pricing,
overnight shipping, credit cards accepted.

_____

MasterTech   ECU

1405 Bayport Blvd
Seabrook, TX 77586 US
Phone: 888-ECM-TOGO Phone: 281-474-7510 FAX: 281-291-0962

E-mail: mastert@flash.net Web: http://www.ecmtogo.com/

ECU repair for all Mitsubishi vechicles.

_____

Those are two well known, and decently priced "ECU REPAIR" shops that are in
the DSM Vendors list. I would suggest you call both up, and get more prices,
and talk to them about the "burn mark" on your 3/S ECU.

DSM ECU's usually can be had for less than 200$ (non-eprom), so 3/S ones
shouldn't be too much more! I'm also sure that it can't cost 600$+ to REPAIR
your current ECU, that might be a good option too, since your car still
runs, maybe it's not totally un-salvagable.

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"

PS: here is another one, but I don't know anything about them.
_____

Automotive Computer Supply/ECM Finders   ECU 20%

PO Box 890693
Houston, Texas 77289 USA
Phone: 877-ECM-7477 Phone: 281-ECM-0330 FAX: 877-326-4520

E-mail: ecmorder@earthlink.net Web: http://www.ecmfinders.com/

ECM Finders- New, Rebuilt, Used units up to 18 month warranty unlimited
milage. Specializing in Mitsubishi mfd ECM rebuilding. Also specializing in
Mitsubishi Parts locating.
>>>

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Yogourt@aol.com>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>
Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 2:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: ECU problem

> My 92 Stealth TT is having some problems. It is having trouble starting
and
> when it does start it dies quickly. The "Check engine" light comes on and
> goes of repeatedly. When I check the trouble codes it either gives the
> signal for "every thing is normal" or "bad ECU." Other symptoms are:
>     noises coming from solenoids on firewall (FPR solenoid?)
>     RPM gauge moving when engine is off
>     Factory boost gauge staying at 7, 14, 0 psi when ignition is on.
>     has fuel pressure
>     has spark at plugs
>     starts sometimes after turning over for a long time
>     When it starts it will run smooth for a few seconds then die suddenly.
>
> If it is the ECU, are there any places where I can send it to get it
fixed,
> or do I have to buy a used one? Where would be the best place to get a
> refurbished ECU?
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Paul
> 92RT/TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 23:03:52 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?

This is also the case with the Eibach Pro-kit on the rear only. The springs
are fully unloaded at full droop on my '91 VR4.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: "'Dg B'" <dbretton@hotmail.com>; <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Cc: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?

> Dennis,
>
> That is absolutely incorrect - the maximum extension of the struts can
> EASILY exceed the maximum height of the springs supplied with the GC kit.
> All you have to do is jack up the car to see this, or look at the
completed
> strut assembly with the GC installed.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dg B [SMTP:dbretton@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:07 AM
> > To: ryanp@crcwnet.com
> > Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
> >
> > Hi Ryan,
> >
> >    You are correct in your statement. The springs are not tied to the
> > spring perches., so they cannot assist in slowing rarification (sp?) of
> > the
> > strut. However, the springs are designed such that their max height
> > matches
> > the maximum extension that the struts may have. That is, there should
be
> > no
> > noticible separation between the strut and the spring perches when the
> > strut
> > is fully extended. By doing this, the action of the spring is
effectively
> >
> > "tied" to the action of the strut on compression.
> >
> > Regards,
> >    Dennis
> >
> > >From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
> > >
> > >Thanks Jeff. Very informative web page. I think you've talked me out
of
> > >the
> > >GC system.
> > >
> > >I disagree with the idea that the stock springs might act in both
> > >directions. They are not "captured" in the context that they also work
in
> > >tension. They would have to be physically tied to the strut top and
> > bottom
> > >seats for this to happen. They are not, they just press against them.
> > Plus,
> > >I think this would be undesirable, as you want the suspension to press
> > down
> > >as far as possible and as fast as possible. Otherwise, the wheels would
> > >tend
> > >to "float" over rough terrain rather than keep contact with the ground.
> > >
> > >I didn't think it was possible to do as much to these engines as you've
> > >done. Nice job!
> > >
> > >Ryan Peterson
> > >www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:52:11 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid

Geez, I go away for a week's vacation and I become so far behind with by
email!

I've used the Valvoline synthetic for a few years now. It seems fine for
the brakes, but I'm convinced that it has not worked well for the clutch. I
have blown two slave cylinder seals in about 13 months using this. I'm
currently using the Ford HD Dot 3 and there is a world of difference with
the clutch. I no longer have the difficulty of my clutch not disengaging
completely when the clutch pedal is on the floor. It does seem to be fine
for the brakes though for street use.

- -Ken

> I'm curious if anyone has actually tried the Valvoline SynPower Synthetic
> Brake Fluid?? It's DOT 3 and DOT 4 approved and has a 500+ degree boiling
> point. All my Turbo Toyota Supra friends love this SynPower product.
>
> How's this Valvoline SynPower with our 3/S cars??
>
> Feedback anyone??

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 06:19:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

>> Geoff Mohler said:
>> Honestly..this is the first ive heard of this "common problem".

Who said common problem? I didn't. Read carefully. I said "weakest
link".

And Roger, I rarely have heard of our cars breaking rings or gouging
pistons (at least here stateside). The most often *major* engine
complaint I have heard of is rod bearings.

While some here would laughingly accuse our engine builders of being
morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is inherent in the design.
Don't blame our engine builders or people like me who bought a TT
used (5 yrs old and 53K miles, and had the rod bearings spin after
only owning it for 2 months and 1000 miles), and say we either can't
build an engine or don't perform proper maintenance.

I do agree (emphatically) that changing the oil often with a good
quality oil, and preventing detonation, should go a long way to
prolong the life of the bearings. I happen to change my oil (Mobil 1)
every 1000 miles or so. I felt bad when I changed it twice after 2000
miles (after driving to Ohio and Norwalk, the DSM shootout, and again
after driving back to Colorado).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 06:24:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Geoff,

Just curious. How many rod bearings have you replaced? How many
engines have you rebuilt? Are you a professional mechanic that has
been trained by the manufacturers? I just want to know whether you
are talking from personal experience (professional or amateur?) or
from what you have read or heard. You know, so I can figure out how
much weight to give your posts. For the record, my answers to the
above questions are either zero, none, or no (that is, of course, why
I seek the advice of fellow owners and professionals).

But let me get this straight from your post. Are you saying it is
better to leave worn bearings (with excess clearance) on an old crank
than putting new bearings on it and reducing the clearance? Could you
expound on that a little?

I agree that a catastrophic or traumatic event will ruin a bearing
fairly quickly. But I really think we are looking at long-term,
normal wear here in many case (just my "not-a-professional-mechanic"
opinion).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Cc: "Team3s Tech List" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> I can tell anyone who is thinking of doing this, it's worth it.
The labor
> isn't hard at all. Just time consuming. Figure 6 hours or so for
the pan
> removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the RTV
> form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan. As far as insurance
for your
> motor goes, it doesn't get better (or cheaper) than this.
- ---

Even tho the procesures to get in & outta there are rather simple,
the
process of -properly- doing this job is not. Cleanliness, attention
to complete anal detail, and measurements (the hardest part) are
crucial. Cranks DO wear down. After 50K miles, you cannot expect
your bearings to fit like new anymore. I dont know if mitsu offers
different sizes, but on the Toyotas I do you have a different bearing
for every 1/10000th of crank rod & main journal size. And IF there
was any issue..polishing the crank would be important as
well..otherwise any defects or oshter issues involved will still be
on the old crank surfaces to disturb your precious oil film layer.

I in -no- way belive that a "newer" bearing adds any more life than
staying on the "older" ones.

Something caused the failure to happen, and changing bearings every
25k will do nothing to solve the actual problem.

If a bearing is being abused..it rarely takes over 2-3K to destroy
it.
Theres no such thing as "light" abuse..because once damaged just a
little, they go downhill fast.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:28:27 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.

Well after spending all night painting my calipers, bleeding the system and
installing my new wheels I ran into a problem. On the pass. side rear wheel
two of the wheel studs will not hold torque. I snapped one of the studs off
trying to torque the wheel down. Has anyone replaced wheel studs before and
can it be done on the car? Also what torque do you use for your aluminum
wheels. ( I use 90 ft.lbs. )   I have a feeling the axle shaft has to come
out and a big press will be needed but I can always hope it can be done on
the car.

Take care,

Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.com
Save money on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:12:18 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Jeff,

What sort of TLC do you think the previous owner gave your car for 53K
miles? We've had four of these monsters with various levels of restoration
required. Mike's current car has 120K miles - he bought it at about 60K from
a meticulous fellow who always drove it fast, but not hard.   Our other cars
have 90K miles and 63K miles currently with (knock on wood) no bearing
problems. The first car Mike had was totalled at about 75K miles if my
memory serves me.

I just can't see changing the bearings that frequently as a PM. If you go
to that much trouble, wouldn't you pop the heads and change out the rods,
pistons and rings?

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:20 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
> >> Geoff Mohler said:
> >> Honestly..this is the first ive heard of this "common problem".
>
> Who said common problem? I didn't. Read carefully. I said "weakest
> link".
>
> And Roger, I rarely have heard of our cars breaking rings or gouging
> pistons (at least here stateside). The most often *major* engine
> complaint I have heard of is rod bearings.
>
> While some here would laughingly accuse our engine builders of being
> morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is inherent in the design.
> Don't blame our engine builders or people like me who bought a TT
> used (5 yrs old and 53K miles, and had the rod bearings spin after
> only owning it for 2 months and 1000 miles), and say we either can't
> build an engine or don't perform proper maintenance.
>
> I do agree (emphatically) that changing the oil often with a good
> quality oil, and preventing detonation, should go a long way to
> prolong the life of the bearings. I happen to change my oil (Mobil 1)
> every 1000 miles or so. I felt bad when I changed it twice after 2000
> miles (after driving to Ohio and Norwalk, the DSM shootout, and again
> after driving back to Colorado).
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:57:42 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Thanks for the reply Bob. I certainly follow your recommendations about
buying with CC. That's taking care off.
However, what piss me off is that I placed the order way back before they
begin remodeling. And anyhow, It that was the case they should have told me.
They didn't call or respond to my e-mails before. I know they offer good
products (pricey too!), but their customer service is bad/terrible.
If they want continue business, they need to do better.

Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:30 PM
To: Berrios, Victor L CIV; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Hey, Victor,

Hopefully, you followed the rule for mail order or web purchasing and ONLY
paid by credit card. If you paid by credit card, all you have to do is call
the CC company and ask them to credit your account, stating that goods were
not received and the company is unreachable. Call the CC company NOW!

I tried calling BOZZ (510) 657-4393 , and I got a recording from August 10
that they are remodeling, so obviously, it is taking longer than they
planned, and the people who take the calls are probably not even working in
the shop until their store is finished. I'd wait a few more days, but if
you want to get action before that, go to the web registration site
http://www.networksolutions.com/cgi-bin/whois/whois and look up the
registration info for www.bozzperformance.com . It will give you name and
phone number of the people own BOZZ, hopefully.

Good luck!

Forrest

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:04:01 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Hi Julian:
I ordered the Kaze Wing Type I.
But it's too late now. I want to cancell the order. As I said, I placed the
order back in MAY!!! Two weeks ago I sent them an e-mail saying I would
consider another product. I was interested in the Bozz Front Spoiler Lip.

Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
3SI No. 1201

- -----Original Message-----
From: nwlink [mailto:vlsgto@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:05 AM
To: Berrios, Victor L CIV; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Victor,

I understand how u feel. Next time, call to speak to Jerry and NOT Kenrick.
Jerry just called me last weekend and indeed that remodeling project is
killing alot of customers. I spoke to Jerry again yesterday at about
10:15am. Try calling them around that time and u should get somebody. That
male receptionist they have is a total idiot too so don't bother leaving a
message with him.

I will call Jerry for you if I have time. Does he know u as Victor then?
What did u order again?

Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com
"Caution: You are about to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:19:50 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.

Rich Merrit can comment.

I believe you can replace the studs without even removing the hub. You
should be able to rotate the wheels (with the car up on jackstands and all)
so you can knock the broken stud out with a hammer - I did this accidentally
to my son's car at the track trying to loosen the rotor (twice!). You put
the new stud in and use a lug nut to torque it into place.

BTW, 90 ft lbs is just fine.

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Schappell [SMTP:kevin@schappell.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:28 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.
>
> Well after spending all night painting my calipers, bleeding the system
> and
> installing my new wheels I ran into a problem. On the pass. side rear
> wheel
> two of the wheel studs will not hold torque. I snapped one of the studs
> off
> trying to torque the wheel down. Has anyone replaced wheel studs before
> and
> can it be done on the car? Also what torque do you use for your aluminum
> wheels. ( I use 90 ft.lbs. )   I have a feeling the axle shaft has to come
> out and a big press will be needed but I can always hope it can be done on
> the car.
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin Schappell
> http://kevin.schappell.com
> Save money on all of your speed parts.
> http://www.SpeedShoppers.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #579
***************************************

Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, August 16 2001 Volume 01 : Number 580

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 07:19:20 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.

You should be able to get them out without removing the hub, but you will
most likely have to remove the dust shield, and parking brake parts, which
is no small task in itself, drum brakes are a pain.

Wayne

At 06:28 AM 8/16/01 , Kevin Schappell wrote:
>Has anyone replaced wheel studs before and
>can it be done on the car? Also what torque do you use for your aluminum
>wheels. ( I use 90 ft.lbs. ) I have a feeling the axle shaft has to come
>out and a big press will be needed but I can always hope it can be done on
>the car.
>
>Take care,

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:28:22 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from ... (ADMIN WARNING)

At 09:57 16.08.2001 -0500, Berrios, Victor L CIV wrote:
>Thanks for the reply Bob. I certainly follow your recommendations about
>buying with CC. That's taking care off.

Guys, please ALWAYS respond to the sender offline the list for such
discussions !

Thanks
Roger for the Admins

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 07:30:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> What sort of TLC do you think the previous owner gave your car
> for 53K miles?

I think the previous owner treated my car horribly! He had no
maintenance reciepts to give me. There were "Jiffy Lube" type
reminder stickers on the car. Every exterior body panel was dinged,
scratched, dented, pitted, or otherwise abused. Buying this
particular car was the worse purchase decision I have ever made on my
nearly half a century on this planet!

Yes, I was naive, and maybe stupid. But then, you guys woudn't have
all those marvelous how-to web pages for fixing and modifying stuff
if I had bought a good car. :)

I really, really believe (in my non-professional opinion) that superb
oil maintenance will reduce the chance of rod bearing failure. I am
convinced that the previous owner rarely changed oil and probably did
not use a synthetic and that was the cause of my engine's failure.

For the record, the boost control solenoid didn't work when I bought
my car and my engine only hit 6 psi boost before the bearings failed
and for 6 months after the rebuild. Now I routine boost to 16+ psi
and rev to 7500 - with no knock for the most part - and I change my
Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 07:36:11 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Bottom line is most engines that are taken care of (which it sounds like
you do, i thought i was anal changing oil @ 2k) should last well over 100k.
Don't get me wrong, I'm in full agreement that bearings should be replaced
before the 600 dollar crank gets ruined, but every 20K? Think about it, you
replace your bearings @ 200 bucks a pop (not even considering labor), every
20k, by the time you reach my 80-100k interval, you've bought almost 2
cranks. As far as the "professional/certified" mechanic statement, I've
seen factory trained, ASE certified professional mechanics installing rod
caps with an impact wrench. Time is money to them, they estimate from a
book, then do their best to get the job done in half the allotted time.

Wayne.

At 06:19 AM 8/16/01 , Jeff Lucius wrote:

>While some here would laughingly accuse our engine builders of being
>morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is inherent in the design.
>
>Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:34:49 -0500
From: Sean Winker <sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

>Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.

Isn't this overkill to the extreme unless you're racing? Sounds like the
damage has already been done. Are you also changing oil filter at every oil
change? What kind of filter are you using?

Sean
'91 R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:40:09 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.

AAt 09:19 AM 8/16/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Rich Merrit can comment.

We replaced the front wheel studs, not the rears, so I can't help you
there. As I recall, Kevin had problem with a rear wheel.

Rich

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:48:01 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

That's the advantage of doing track events - change the oil and filter
between each event so it's about every two months or less! Even MobilOne
and a filter is cheaper than bearings!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 9:35 AM
> To: 'Jeff Lucius'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
> >Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
>
> Isn't this overkill to the extreme unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> damage has already been done. Are you also changing oil filter at every
> oil
> change? What kind of filter are you using?
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:22:29 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

I just got off the phone with the Mitsu importer here in Swizz and and also
asked him about the most problems with these cars within Europe.

Number 1 was tranny, output shaft and clutch (who wonders !), 2 active
aero, 3 door locks and then compression loss due to broken internal stuff.
Rings are the most reported parts on this and the cause seems to be
overheating in the rear bank when driving for a long time with high speeds.
Otherwise ABS, antenna, hatch lock, exhaust leaks. No crank problems (only
those who lost oil) and no bearing problems reported at all.

The same engine design is in the other V6 cars here in Europe (3.5l and 3
liter) and none of them reported bad bearings if the normal inspections and
oil changes have been done. He told me that most of the problems on the V6
reported was damage due to bad oil (left the same oil in the turbo engine
for 20k miles) low quality oil (they tell NEVER to use dino oil in our
engines, I also used Castrol Synth from day 1 after the rebuild and change
it every 4000 miles, no problems, almost 0 ticking). I wouldn't say that
the design is wrong or faulty at all.

I will change the bearings only with checking and machining the crank too
on my car. I'd be more afraid that I damage anything as I just follow the
rule : does it run well = don't touch it ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

>And Roger, I rarely have heard of our cars breaking rings or gouging
>pistons (at least here stateside). The most often *major* engine
>complaint I have heard of is rod bearings.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: 16 Aug 2001 08:39:38 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Prone to spinning bearings.

There is a similar, less technical thread, currently running on 3si.

http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=d71bb4b27327308f771f7ee3c2d8c70f&threadid=39363

I don't have a picture at work but my avatar is a close up of the bearing that I discovered when the timing belt skipped a few teeth.

This picture of my main bearing which whas shot after approximately 86K miles. I bought it with 36K miles and always used Mobil-1 changed every 3000 miles. I have no clue what the first owner did but my wife is the primary driver(ugly secret is out) and she is very mellow when compared to me.

I worked as an engineering Co-op student at Minster Machine designing punch presses 11 years ago. I did a little work on analysing a bearing failure on a punch press, now these bearings were 10 inches wide but some of the same principles apply. The bearing should never touch the crank except at start up and shut dowen when oil pressure is zero. When running the crank is supported by the oil film. The amount of load the oil film can support is based on bearing surface, oil pressure, oil volumn and the gap between crank and bearing. Assuming an even load the bearings should have supported the crank. What we eventually discovered was that the load on the crank was enough to deflect the crank shaft just enough so that the gap was increased on on end of bearing so that oil film could not support as much in that area. The other end of the crank was now deflecting closer to the bearing and the oil film could not support the majority load of the crank in a smaller area.

IF the 1st gen blocks have this same problem because they are using a cast iron crank then swithcing to the 2nd gen steel crank should reduce deflection and reduce this problem. The problem with this theory is tht my bearing was worn in the center. With a deflecting crank the bearing wear should be on the edge of the bearing.

Could other people with partial failure state what there bearings looked like? Once the bearing has spun it is difficult to tell anything.

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:06:17 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Spark Blowout?

What is this talk of the spark blowing out? And, if we gap down the
plugs to prevent this, doesn't that provide less spark = less power?
I'm doing plugs/wires soon on my car, so I'm wondering if 8.5mm wires or
a stronger coil may be in line.

Thanks
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Apexi AVC-R 1.0bar

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:08:27 -0700
From: "nwlink" <vlsgto@nwlink.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

No Problem. Just wanted to see if I could help.

Take Care/

Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com
"Caution: You are about to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:04 AM
To: 'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Hi Julian:
I ordered the Kaze Wing Type I.
But it's too late now. I want to cancell the order. As I said, I placed the
order back in MAY!!! Two weeks ago I sent them an e-mail saying I would
consider another product. I was interested in the Bozz Front Spoiler Lip.

Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
3SI No. 1201

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:05:57 -0400
From: Curtis McConnel <CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: Team3S: Transmission out

Hey everyone,

I found out the other day my transmission has gone out and Mitsu will not
replace it ( due to being out of the 5 year 60k warranty) My problem is the
transmission was replaced in May of last year. Does anyone know of a way I
maybe able to fix this problem for less than the $5000 Mitsu wants? I may be
looking to sell the car to avoid this problem in the future.

Thanks for any help,

Curtis
1995 Vr-4 Spyder

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 22:41:18 +0300
From: "Oleg Reznik" <Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Team3S: Anti lag system

Hello guys,

Anyone experiment with some kind of anti lag system?
Today I drove Rally EVO5 - as passenger of course. The car was equiped with
system, which change ignition in 1 or 2 cilinders in shifting moments and
hold boost all the time. The driver can switch on/off the system at any
point.
When the car to be at a stop, switching ON system - REVchange to 3000-4000,
the car "shoot" and the boost going up and stop at apr. 1.5 bar. (1.7 is
max. for this car)
The question is: can we use some kind of anti lag systems on our cars? I
know it's very bad for turbos, in rally they change it every year, but they
drive hard and long.

Regards,
Oleg Reznik
3SI#0441
www.3000gt.lv

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:55:07 -0400
From: Curtis McConnel <CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission out

6 speed. I was told all the gears had gone out? Basically when I'd put it in
gear it would fall right back to neutral. it would stay in 3rd and 4th and
that was about it.

Curtis
1995 Vr4 Spyder

- -----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim [mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:56 PM
To: Curtis McConnel
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission out

Automatic or 6-speed ?

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 14:11:33 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bushings, polyurethane for our suspensions

After a fun day at the Heartland Park raceway in Topeka Kansas I
blew out the bushing in my lower control arm.
I'm talking to Steve at 3SX about developing polyurethane bushings
for our cars.
Does anyone know if there are any sources already out there so he
doesn't have to reinvent the wheel ?

Jim

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:28:17 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Use cooked R4S pads on the street?

My R4S pads have about 3/16" to 1/4" of pad left after my recent
playtime at the track - should I still use them for the street, or should I
stick my stock pads back on and trash the old R4Ss? The edges are cooked
and a little "crumbly," but the rest of the surface seems ok. BTW, they
seemed to wear more at the top of the pad than at the bottom, and the inner
and outer pads are worn about the same.
If you think I should put the stock pads back on, should I put my
stock rotors back on as well or leave the cryo'd ones on (which have only
been run for about 60 street and 90 track miles with the R4S pads)?

Thanks,
- --Erik

<putting some kind of brakes back on my VR-4 tonight so I>
<can drive to the St. Helens gathering on Saturday>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:33:39 -0500
From: Sean Winker <sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Blowout?

Less spark might = less power but no spark = no power! I wish I would have
known about blow out before I replaced my plugs and gapped them to factory
specs. All I added was a K&N and it would miss under stock boost. Closed
the gap to .30 and it pulls smooth.

Sean
'91 R/T TT - Time to increase boost!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton [mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 11:06
To: Team3S Stealth
Subject: Team3S: Spark Blowout?

What is this talk of the spark blowing out? And, if we gap down the
plugs to prevent this, doesn't that provide less spark = less power?
I'm doing plugs/wires soon on my car, so I'm wondering if 8.5mm wires or
a stronger coil may be in line.

Thanks
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Apexi AVC-R 1.0bar

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:33:52 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission out

You could bring it to Cedar Rapids. The dealer here replaced my tranny for
$3,000. There's a savings of $2,000 right off the top.
Rich

At 03:05 PM 8/16/01 -0400, Curtis McConnel wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>
>I found out the other day my transmission has gone out and Mitsu will not
>replace it ( due to being out of the 5 year 60k warranty) My problem is the
>transmission was replaced in May of last year. Does anyone know of a way I
>maybe able to fix this problem for less than the $5000 Mitsu wants? I may be
>looking to sell the car to avoid this problem in the future.
>
>Thanks for any help,
>
>Curtis
>1995 Vr-4 Spyder

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:33:04 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission out

Curtis,

Give Frank a call at Kormex(www.kormextrans.com...1-800-429-5464)
and get some advice from him as he is very familiar with these trannys. I
know that he has some NEW(yes, new) 6spd Getrags for ~$2500 + core and could
fix yours for (possibly) less.

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT

>From: Curtis McConnel <CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
>To: "'Floyd, Jim'" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>, team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission out
>Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:55:07 -0400
>
>6 speed. I was told all the gears had gone out? Basically when I'd put it
>in
>gear it would fall right back to neutral. it would stay in 3rd and 4th and
>that was about it.
>
>Curtis
>1995 Vr4 Spyder

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:59:20 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission out

>
>replace it ( due to being out of the 5 year 60k warranty) My problem is the
>transmission was replaced in May of last year. Does anyone know of a way I
>maybe able to fix this problem for less than the $5000 Mitsu wants? I may be
>
Kormex will swap you out a reconditioned unit for about $2000 + core
(that's what it
was for my 5 speed, 6 speed is probably the same). AFAIK their
reconditioned units
have the upgraded 1+2 synchros and the hardened output shaft, so it
might not be a
bad time to upgrade at the same time. Speak to Frank Martin,
1-800-429-5464 .

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 18:03:20 EDT
From: StealthCT@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Overheating

Have any of you with front mounted intercoolers experienced problems with
overheating? If so did you find a fix other than removing the FMIC (such as
a more efficient radiator or additions fans)? Any advice or suggestions
would be greatly appreciated. Regards Charles

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:17:39 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Jeff,

A main bearing (or any plain bearing), under normal conditions, won't wear
at all. There is no contact between the bearing and the journal. As long
as oil pressure and contaminents are controlled, and the bearings were worn
in properly, the crank journal runs on the oil film supported by the plain
bearings. From what limited experience and information I have, I find
Geoffs comments far more likely. I hope so anyway, otherwise it's time to
look for a different car.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> Geoff,
> Just curious. How many rod bearings have you replaced? How many
> engines have you rebuilt? Are you a professional mechanic that has
> been trained by the manufacturers? I just want to know whether you
> are talking from personal experience (professional or amateur?) or
> from what you have read or heard. You know, so I can figure out how
> much weight to give your posts. For the record, my answers to the
> above questions are either zero, none, or no (that is, of course, why
> I seek the advice of fellow owners and professionals).
>
> But let me get this straight from your post. Are you saying it is
> better to leave worn bearings (with excess clearance) on an old crank
> than putting new bearings on it and reducing the clearance? Could you
> expound on that a little?
>
> I agree that a catastrophic or traumatic event will ruin a bearing
> fairly quickly. But I really think we are looking at long-term,
> normal wear here in many case (just my "not-a-professional-mechanic"
> opinion).
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> To: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
> Cc: "Team3s Tech List" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:15 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
> > I can tell anyone who is thinking of doing this, it's worth it.
> The labor
> > isn't hard at all. Just time consuming. Figure 6 hours or so for
> the pan
> > removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the RTV
> > form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan. As far as insurance
> for your
> > motor goes, it doesn't get better (or cheaper) than this.
> ---
>
> Even tho the procesures to get in & outta there are rather simple,
> the
> process of -properly- doing this job is not. Cleanliness, attention
> to complete anal detail, and measurements (the hardest part) are
> crucial. Cranks DO wear down. After 50K miles, you cannot expect
> your bearings to fit like new anymore. I dont know if mitsu offers
> different sizes, but on the Toyotas I do you have a different bearing
> for every 1/10000th of crank rod & main journal size. And IF there
> was any issue..polishing the crank would be important as
> well..otherwise any defects or oshter issues involved will still be
> on the old crank surfaces to disturb your precious oil film layer.
>
> I in -no- way belive that a "newer" bearing adds any more life than
> staying on the "older" ones.
>
> Something caused the failure to happen, and changing bearings every
> 25k will do nothing to solve the actual problem.
>
> If a bearing is being abused..it rarely takes over 2-3K to destroy
> it.
> Theres no such thing as "light" abuse..because once damaged just a
> little, they go downhill fast.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:21:48 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: heated debates

Lads;

Not so caustic. Gentlemanly conduct remember. And, a professional as versus
an amateur, by definition, means on the one hand a person who takes a fee
or is paid for their service or opinion, as versus a person who does or
renders it for the sheer love of it. So, regardless of whether or not one
is a professional, one should aim to adopt the passion of being an
amateur. There is a lot more living and joy to be found in the latter. And
you can smile the quite knowing smile of Buddha when one calls you an
amateur ;-))

Best

Darc

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 18:21:42 -0400
From: "Jason Barnhart" <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission out

FYI,
Last I heard, the Kormex synchros were *not* upgrades. Rather, they are
simply synchros that Kormex made replicating the factory design as factory
synchros are not available for purchase. In Kormex's own words, they are
not superior in any way, just replacements.

Jason

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
To: "Team3s" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission out

> >
> >replace it ( due to being out of the 5 year 60k warranty) My problem is
the
> >transmission was replaced in May of last year. Does anyone know of a way
I
> >maybe able to fix this problem for less than the $5000 Mitsu wants? I may
be
> >
> Kormex will swap you out a reconditioned unit for about $2000 + core
> (that's what it
> was for my 5 speed, 6 speed is probably the same). AFAIK their
> reconditioned units
> have the upgraded 1+2 synchros and the hardened output shaft, so it
> might not be a
> bad time to upgrade at the same time. Speak to Frank Martin,
> 1-800-429-5464 .

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:52:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Dunno..but I had a bearing failure because the oil pan was dented into the
pump pickup screen. Not anything mysterious.

On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

> Jeff,
>
> What sort of TLC do you think the previous owner gave your car for 53K
> miles? We've had four of these monsters with various levels of restoration
> required. Mike's current car has 120K miles - he bought it at about 60K from
> a meticulous fellow who always drove it fast, but not hard.   Our other cars
> have 90K miles and 63K miles currently with (knock on wood) no bearing
> problems. The first car Mike had was totalled at about 75K miles if my
> memory serves me.
>
> I just can't see changing the bearings that frequently as a PM. If you go
> to that much trouble, wouldn't you pop the heads and change out the rods,
> pistons and rings?
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:20 AM
> > To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
> >
> > >> Geoff Mohler said:
> > >> Honestly..this is the first ive heard of this "common problem".
> >
> > Who said common problem? I didn't. Read carefully. I said "weakest
> > link".
> >
> > And Roger, I rarely have heard of our cars breaking rings or gouging
> > pistons (at least here stateside). The most often *major* engine
> > complaint I have heard of is rod bearings.
> >
> > While some here would laughingly accuse our engine builders of being
> > morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is inherent in the design.
> > Don't blame our engine builders or people like me who bought a TT
> > used (5 yrs old and 53K miles, and had the rod bearings spin after
> > only owning it for 2 months and 1000 miles), and say we either can't
> > build an engine or don't perform proper maintenance.
> >
> > I do agree (emphatically) that changing the oil often with a good
> > quality oil, and preventing detonation, should go a long way to
> > prolong the life of the bearings. I happen to change my oil (Mobil 1)
> > every 1000 miles or so. I felt bad when I changed it twice after 2000
> > miles (after driving to Ohio and Norwalk, the DSM shootout, and again
> > after driving back to Colorado).
> >
> > Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:08:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Every 1k miles is burning money..please, just paypal it to me instead.

Lets be _reasonable_ here. 1000 miles is barely warming up the oil. Its
like washing your hands every 10 minutes while sitting at home.

Its just not a reasonable thing to _have_ to do.

3K is about the minumum anyone should worry about..even racing. Now..if
youre HIGHLY modified where you see 20+psi and fuel dilution from blowby
is an issue. Every race would be a choice if the motor was built
extremely loose to make more power..for racing only.

On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Sean Winker wrote:

> >Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
>
> Isn't this overkill to the extreme unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> damage has already been done. Are you also changing oil filter at every oil
> change? What kind of filter are you using?
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T TT
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:15:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

I still stand on that oil change intervals (at such extremely short
intervals, and under relatively light "racing" conditions) is an insane
waste of money.

If porterfield sold Mobil1 & Redline to me at $1/quart, and I sold it to
you at $5/qt and you all were in LINE to buy it..I wouldnt even mention
that changing the oil _that_ quick for _those_ reasons was anything short
if misguided.

On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

> That's the advantage of doing track events - change the oil and filter
> between each event so it's about every two months or less! Even MobilOne
> and a filter is cheaper than bearings!
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Sean Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 9:35 AM
> > To: 'Jeff Lucius'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
> >
> > >Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
> >
> > Isn't this overkill to the extreme unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> > damage has already been done. Are you also changing oil filter at every
> > oil
> > change? What kind of filter are you using?
> >
> > Sean
> > '91 R/T TT
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 19:35:55 EDT
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: RE: Rod bearing preventative maintenance?

>>He suggested changing the rod
>>bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
>>regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
>>fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank.

I would never take my car back to someone that suggested this!!

Ok, finally an area I'm an expert in. I don't know the Mitsu engine that
well, but I know just about everything there is to know about re-building
bottom ends for hi-po motors like circle track V-8's which spin above 8000
rpm for more then 25 minutes at a time - that's like spinning your Mitsu
motor at 9500 rpm for almost half an hour - anybody want to try it?

1. Bearings (rod or main) fail because of a mistake made by the engine
builder, either in not addressing the shortcomings of the oiling system, or
just improperly installing them. If you're changing your bearings every 20 -
30k miles, there is something wrong. STOP, have it checked out.

2. Properly installed and prepped bearings WILL NOT FAIL!!!! There is always
a good reason for a bearing failure, for rod bearings, it is usually improper
rod side clearance that leads to poor or improper oil travel. Excessive side
clearance can actually be considered an oil leak in many V-8 motors. If #5
and #6 are the ones that always seem to die, chances are that not enough oil
is getting back there. Given that all other factors check out (no oil
starvation do to low levels, or high side loads in racing) this is probably
due to improper side clearances, or just a poor oiling design, either way it
can be fixed.

3. Installing rod bearings by pulling the oil pan and taking the old ones
out and putting the new ones in is a perfect way to ENSURE that your bearings
will only last 5 - 15K miles!!!!! This method is OK for the family
grocery-getter that will never see a tick above 4000 rpm, but it has no place
in a 400 hp motor that regularly spins to 7000 rpm!!! Changing bearings 'in
the field' is like performing surgery in a septic tank - there are sooooo
many things wrong with it! Bearings need to be torqued and clearanced
properly, and everything needs to be painfully CLEAN!!! Professional engine
builders don't even spray thin film oil between the bearing and the saddle
when they are installing/clearancing them, because even a micro fine layer of
wd-40 will throw off clearances and torque settings. Do you ever wonder why
auto manufacturers spend hundreds of millions of dollars on 'Clean' rooms to
assemble their engines? And all this expense is for your average, every-day,
motor, things get even tighter when you start talking about motors that are
putting out 2.5 hp per cubic inch, which a lot of our motors are doing.

So what do you do about rod bearings?

1. Make sure nothing is wrong with the crank;
    - Check for runout - has the crank been dropped or mishandled before?
Cranks look and feel bullet proof, but just dropping one on it's side is
enough to destroy it. Also, the slightest nick or scratch in a bearing
journal means the crank needs to be ground/polished.
    - Magnaflux for cracks - if you've broken parts like pistons or rods,
chances are good the crank may be damaged - Magnafluxing is cheap insurance -
while your at it, Magnaflux your rods, if they check out, have them
shotpeened and heat treated or cryoed if you're really serious.
    - check for correct end-play, and all associated tolerances
    - check the location of the oil galleries for each rod journal, there is
a possibility that they are not centered on the bearing correctly, if they
aren't, there are things a professional crank builder can do, or you may need
a new crank.

2. Make sure nothing is wrong with your mains, have them align bored if
necessary. Also carefully check main bearing clearances and torque settings.

3. Have a professional look at your crank. There may be some shortcomings
in the design. By chamfering oiling holes and radiusing certain parts, oil
flow can be dramatically improved.

I know a lot of people are thinking "Hmmm, this guy is nuts, it is easier
just to change bearings every 25000 miles". That's kind of like saying:
"It's easier to change livers every 10 years then to stop drinking". Bearings
don't always 'spin', a lot of times they 'seize', when this happens, you'll
have to buy and entirely new long block, and potentially new turbos and
exhaust manifolds. Also, if a bearing has 'spun', your crank should been
re-ground/polished, and the big end of the rod should be resized, if you
don't do this, you should practice apologizing to the other racers for all
the oil your 'motor grenade' just spilled on the track.

In short, if you're pushing your motor, which most of us are, it needs to be
seriously prepped. Blueprinting a motor may cost a bit and generally doesn't
add much HP, but it's a lot nicer and cheaper then collecting little engine
parts off the track. Plus a properly prepared Mitsu motor should spin up to
8000 rpm before valve float or head breathing become a problem, if you can
hold boost to that level, you're talking about some serious HP gains. Side
note: Because we are ultimately limited in power by detonation cause by
excessive boost, adding rpm is a great way to make more HP. If you make 300
ft/lbs of torque at 7000rpm , you get 399 hp, by holding that torque for just
another 1000 rpm, you get an added 57 HP! I would never spin my stock motor
to those levels, but as soon as it dies, I'll rebuild it properly, and
blueprint the bottom end, and rev it to 8000 rpm all day long.

Caveat: I've made a lot of 'blanket' statements here, and I'm sure someone
has an anecdotal story about their Uncle Bob's friend that rebuild a motor in
a sand storm using only chewing gum and duct-tape, and the motor lasted
500,000 miles â€¦.. yada yada yada. In real life, I've spend thousands of
hours working with/reading about/and watching motors on the track and in the
dyno cell. The one thing I've learned is that you can pay now and enjoy your
car, or you can save your money now, worry about your motor the whole time,
and feel like a real ass as you sit in the passengers seat of your
girlfriends Hyundai, and watch your beloved car being trucked down the
freeway on the back of a tow truck.

End of Rant

Cyrus

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:30:28 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Jeez Jeff - If I can expect my bearings to fail every 50k or so, then the
only conclusion I can make is the engine is a piece of junk and I am going
to put my Stealth on the market right now (since it has 112k on it now.)

My Bimmers have all gone at least 400k with no major work except for changes
of the belts, fluids, battery, alternator and tires. Too bad BMW doesn't
make anything that looks as good as the Stealth, although the M3 sure as
hell goes just as fast. The new 330ix is AWD but it still lacks the STealths
looks.

Andy

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 20:30:08 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Yeah, where do you guys live. I can use all that 'new' oil you're throwing away!

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 4:09 PM
To: Sean Winker
Cc: 'Jeff Lucius'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Every 1k miles is burning money..please, just paypal it to me instead.

Lets be _reasonable_ here. 1000 miles is barely warming up the oil. Its
like washing your hands every 10 minutes while sitting at home.

Its just not a reasonable thing to _have_ to do.

3K is about the minumum anyone should worry about..even racing. Now..if
youre HIGHLY modified where you see 20+psi and fuel dilution from blowby
is an issue. Every race would be a choice if the motor was built
extremely loose to make more power..for racing only.

On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Sean Winker wrote:

> >Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
>
> Isn't this overkill to the extreme unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> damage has already been done. Are you also changing oil filter at every oil
> change? What kind of filter are you using?
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T TT
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:38:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventative maintenance?

Ahhh, at last the voice of reason and experience. Thanks Cyrus for a
very educational and eloquent "rant" as you say. I think the jist of
it is "Do it right to start with and forget this crazy idea of
changing rod bearings mid-life". Fortunately, my engine builder did
many of the thinks you recommended. We did not investigate modifying
the crank for improved oil flow. We did magnuflux everything and
either align-honed or align-bored (I forget which now) the mains. The
bottom end was carefully balanced. Unfortunately, I do not have the
blueprinting records. I guess all I can do now is keep the oil clean
(even though it may mean "insane" oil change intervals as one person
put it - I do normally only drive the car ~2000 miles a year and it
sits for 6 months).

Thanks for your post!

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <NassiriC@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 5:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Rod bearing preventative maintenance?
<snip>
Cyrus

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:37:41 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Hi all, I swore that I would not drag race when I bought my Stealth four
months ago. But recently it started feeling somehow wimpy and... I went to
a drag strip yesterday to verify it, clear out my doubts and hesitations
and just to try it out. I ran my (still) stock '95 Stealth TT with 42,000
miles on it three times. I started at about 5000 rpm last two times. Here
are my results net my reaction times:

         Run 1 Run 2 Run 3 (Run 3 G-Tech reading)
Time, sec 13.927 13.514 13.685 (14.05)
Speed, mph 95.24 99.31 98.47 (103.6)

Is this good/bad/average? I thought that it was good for a complete stock
car until I read about some lightly modified FWD NA's, some of these guys
run almost just as fast!

Philip
'95 R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 18:54:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission out

Hi Chris,

Sorry to hear of the recent tranny failure.

Mistu does warrant a replacement tranny for one year
or 12k. At least my Dodge dealer did for mine cause
the 60k ran out.

Someone on the list may have a rebuilt one for
considerably less than $5k (seems high).

Be of good cheer,
John

- --- Curtis McConnel <CMcConnel@Pulte.com> wrote:
> Hey everyone,
>
> I found out the other day my transmission has gone
> out and Mitsu will not
> replace it ( due to being out of the 5 year 60k
> warranty) My problem is the
> transmission was replaced in May of last year. Does
> anyone know of a way I
> maybe able to fix this problem for less than the
> $5000 Mitsu wants? I may be
> looking to sell the car to avoid this problem in the
> future.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Curtis
> 1995 Vr-4 Spyder