Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, August 14
2001 Volume 01 : Number
577
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:18:52 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
Flash,
The air has to exit the
engine compartment somewhere, otherwise it would
inflate like a
balloon!
You are quite right that air flows in the front of the car
through the
radiator and through the intercoolers. Where does it
exit?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 09,
2001 12:20 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for
TT
>
> Because if the engine has a lower pressure area to suck air
into the hood
> then it can not have a higher pressure area in the same
place to let air
> to
> exhaust. Take the rubber seal off the
back of the hood and air will rush
> forward (even at 100 mph) and go into
the engine bay. ANY hole in the
> hood
> will also suck air in
and will not let air out since PV=nRT still applies
> (or whatever the
formula is where those pressures need to be equal).
>
> Isn't this
correct thinking?
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Shane Thoms
> Sent:
Thursday, August 02, 2001 9:53 PM
> To: Jim Matthews; Team3S
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
>
> I would like to inject
an idea here also. Why not have a double ended
> scoop?
> The
front would grab air into the FIPK or airbox and the rear could allow
>
underhood
> air drawn out?
>
> I think it would look sweet
and be incredibly functional.
>
> Shane
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:28:46
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
The engine bay is halfway covered
underneath by the front air dam. The air
dam makes the air going
under the car run faster creating a lower pressure
(Bernoulli's law) under
the car and in the rear of the engine bay. This
suction helps hold the
car to the road and helps pull hot air out of the
engine
compartment.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steven M.
[SMTP:nws3@winisp.net]
> Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 1:07 AM
>
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
'Team3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
>
> It all
depends on the way the air is flowing, you want your intake to be
> in
place with a large amount of pressure (front of hood where many NACA
>
ducting setups are), and the exhaust where the aerodynamics of the car
>
cause lower pressure than under the hood. Keep in mind the entire
>
engine bay is pretty much open from the bottom, and there will be all
>
sorts of turbulences from that, if you want to make our car. Which
>
direction the air flows depends on where the air is under less pressure
>
relative to the other side of your hole. If there is less pressure
>
under the hood, air goes in, less pressure outside, air goes out.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Darren Schilberg
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:20 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
>
> Because if the engine has a lower
pressure area to suck air into the
> hood
> then it can not have a
higher pressure area in the same place to let air
> to
>
exhaust. Take the rubber seal off the back of the hood and air
will
> rush
> forward (even at 100 mph) and go into the engine
bay. ANY hole in the
> hood
> will also suck air in and will
not let air out since PV=nRT still
> applies
> (or whatever the
formula is where those pressures need to be equal).
>
> Isn't this
correct thinking?
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:37:46
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension Questions
I don't think that's correct. The
spring rate, unless you have progressive
springs, is a constant, k. The
amount of force exerted by the springs
depends on that constant multiplied
times the amount of deflection from the
spring's relaxed position. If
you cut the springs, they still have the same
spring rate, they just have a
limited travel, so you actually cannot get as
much force from the spring
before they bottom out, or hit the bump stop. If
anything, they will
seem SOFTER, becuase they bottom out sooner.
Chuck
> If you cut
the factory springs they are going to be stiffer, part of
> what
determines the rate of a spring is its length.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 11:01:35
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
Hope
everything went well for you Erik!
I bet the vibration went away as you
bedded pad material into the rotor.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, August 09, 2001 11:33 AM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers
List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads
and rotors
>
> Hey guys,
> I thought I was there - happily on
my way to my first DE at the
> track tomorrow... grrr. I took
the car down off the jackstands last
> night
> after installing
BRAND NEW Porterfield cryo rotors and R4S pads and
> completely bleeding
the system on my VR-4. I did EVERYTHING by the book -
> literally -
took my time, didn't force anything, and used a torque wrench
> for all
the bolts/nuts as I put things back together.
> So now I have a slight
vibration in the steering wheel when braking
> above 35mph or so. It
seems to be reduced if I brake harder, but I
> haven't
> tried
anything extreme. I get a pretty decent shaking when braking from
>
60mph that feels just like what I've felt on other cars with warped
>
rotors.
> I can't imagine that Porterfield sent me warped rotors, so what
else
> could it be? The car had NO vibration at all before I took
the old brakes
> off, so I'm pretty sure it's related to something I put
on there in the
> last
> couple days. I don't think it's
really possible to mis-align the pads
> with
> those two big pins
going through them. I put some brake lube on the back
> of
>
the pad and between the clip and shim. I put a light coating of
>
anti-seize
> compound on the inside of the rotor hat, the caliper bolts
(the ones that
> hold the caliper to the bracket), and the wheel
studs. I don't think
> there's an excessive amount of anti-seize
under the rotor hat, and I don't
> think there's anything under there that
would cause the rotor to be
> off-center.
> I had originally
tightened the lugs to 95ft-lbs and I took them off
> and retightened them
to 90 ft-lbs. Still the same thing. I tried driving
> them
around the neighborhood doing some very light braking and that may
>
have
> made it a little less noticeable, but it's still there above
35mph. Short
> of taking the @#%$@#% things off the car and checking
the rotors, what
> else
> can I do? If the rotor's warped,
will I be able to see that with a metal
> straight-edge? I suppose I
could put my old rotors (stock, non-cryo) back
> on and see how things
are, but I'm a little wary of going to the track
> with
> the stock
rotors, even if I have R4S pads.
>
> Help?
>
> --Erik
> <a little frustrated, but not
thwarted>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:09:29
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Young punk kids 2, old farts 0, one DNF
Rich,
The problem
was a "blown" ball joint on the right lower control arm.
Is the Quattro
event another driving school ?
He really is an old poop
folks.
Jim
- -----Original
Message---------------------------------------------
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 4:03
PM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Young punk kids 2, old farts 0, one DNF
As I have predicted all
along, once the kids start coming out with their
fast reflexes and lack of
fear, they will stomp us old farts. It happened
at Heartland Park: Mike
Willis and Flash were the fastest, with 2:14 laps,
and the two old farts --
Chuck Willis and me (Rich the Old Poop) brought up
the rear with 2:15s. Jim
Floyd broke his car early, so he gets a bye this
time.
Let's hope this
encourages all you kids to bring your cars out to play.
(Cathy, my bee-utiful
daughter, are you listening?)
LESSONS LEARNED
When you have five
more-or-less identical cars on track at the same event,
you learn lots. For
example:
1. Use Motul brake fluid.
This was discussed in an earlier
post.
2. Yoko 032R tires are just as good as Kuhmos.
3. Big
Reds are better than Stillen/Brembo upgrades
Although Mike Willis was
faster than me by a second a lap, I could
consistently outbrake him and his
dad, Chuck Willis, into the corners. Mike
and I did lead/follow for several
laps, and when he led, it was always the
same: Because he has a boost
controller, he could pull away from me out of
corners, gaining maybe 15-50
yards on each straightaway. I made it up under
braking, getting it all back
so that I entered each turn on his butt. Ergo,
the Big Reds are better
brakes.
(And I don't even have the best Big Red setup! Flash has
brakes that will
put you through the windshield, Jack! I have never been in a
car that
stopped like Flash's car: It's like hitting a brick wall. Maybe
it's
because he runs race pads on the rears and I don't, but his car
flat
STOPS!!)
As for Yokos v Kuhmos, I could follow Mike through the
turns at exactly the
same speed, neither gaining nor losing time. That means
that his Yokos --
which some of us (ahem) have called "school tires" --
stick just as good
as Kuhmos, which are supposed to be a superior tire. (Mike
and I both have
GC suspensions with 550 front springs).
I am sick and
tired of cording Kuhmos left and right, so I am ordering
another set of Yoko
032R tires to replace the three Kuhmos I corded this
weekend (I can see the
cords just below the surface on the fourth tire, so
it's ready to go, too).
(BTW, the Kuhmos are certainly good tires, but they
have no wear indicators,
so ya never know how much tire is left.)
SMOOTH IS FAST
Chuck Willis
gives the best demonstration of how smooth is fast. He was
slower than us by
a second or so a lap, but when you ride with him you see
a master at work: He
doesn't punish the car. He shifts at 5000, lifts early
for braking, stabs the
brakes sanely, keeps it under 100 mph on the
straights, and takes no risks.
Yet he turns into corners at amazingly high
speeds, keeps the car nicely
balanced while it's skeetering at the limit,
shaves off a second here and a
second there, and his seemingly slower pace
is only a second or so off the
lap times of those of us who are divebombing
the course, pulling 7000 rpm
shift points, and slamming on the brakes at
120+. If Chuck turned up the
wick, he'd smoke all of us.
If you ever get a chance to run with us,
take a few laps with Chuck.
BREAKING BRAKES
Heartland Park is a
brake-eater, so when you come to play, bring spare pads.
I ate up a set
of rear pads. They were stock pads (lifetime warranty!
Wonder what they will
say when I bring them back with only four days use on
them?)
Flash went
through a set of Pagid Orange front pads. They had been through
a couple of
events, so it was just a matter of time.
Mike cracked BOTH of his Stillen
drilled rotors. They cracked right through
the drilled part. The cracked
rotors contributed to his eating a set of
front pads, too. Fortunately, it
all happened late Sunday afternoon, so he
didn't miss much track time.
We
had to bleed out my Ford fluid (had to do it twice before we got it all
out)
and replace it with Motul before I could make it through an entire
session.
Needless to say, it looked like the Mitsubishi Brake Shop for most of
the
weekend.
We still don't know what's wrong with Jim's car. He was
in his second
session when something went CLANG in the front end, the
steering wheel
turned halfway around, and he limped back to the paddock. He
stayed over to
check with a front end shop on Monday morning, so I guess
we'll hear about
it in a few days. Jim, Mike and Flash spent a lot of time
under the car,
poking and prodding, but they didn't find anything seriously
wrong. Chuck
let Jim drive his car for the rest of the sessions (what a
guy!!).
As noted, Chuck does not run his car hard. Chuck did not have a
single
problem with brakes, tires, overheating, or anything else this
entire
weekend, and both he and Jim drove the car. There must be a lesson
there
somewhere.
RUNNING WITH THE BIG BOYS
Three of us (Chuck,
Mike and I) got put into Group 4, with the instructors.
We had about 20
cars in our group, and there were 11 Group 1 cars, so at
least 11 of those
cars were instructors. Other cars in group 4 included
race-prepped
cars, such as a Speedvision world challenge (or whatever that
series is)
Saleen Mustang, 911s with tall wings, and lots of cars with
stickers and
lettering. Some of them would come up on us like a rocket ship
on the
straights (like the Saleen), while others would catch us in the
twisty bits
(like race prepped 914s). The 914s and such couldn't pass us on
the straights
unless we let them, because they had no horsepower to speak
of, but we all
let them by. They caught up to us because they didn't have
to slow down for
corners (at least it seemed that way. Dang German go
karts!).
Later,
they merged Groups 4 and 5, so we got to run with even more
race-prepped
cars, such as Vipers and stuff.
These were all some really serious
folks, with years of experience, very
expensive cars, and lots of trailer
queens and cars with no license plates.
I heard a little derision in the rest
room about the Mitsubishis that were
"getting in the way." Hmm...we'll have
to do something about that. We need
some serious cars of our own out there.
Once we solved my brake fluid problem, I was staying with the big boys,
and
getting passed just by the race-prepped cars, so I was fairly happy
with
the weekend. I've run 2:12 at HP before, but not in such intense heat.
The absolute best part, though, was having five cars there, with
assorted
friends, family, tent, bbq, folding chairs, coolers, and our own
instructor
(Chuck). I'm ready to do it again. How about October 20-21
for the Audi
Quattro event at Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansa? Come join us.
Let's have
TEN cars this time!
Rich/old poop.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:14:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cooling lines in engine block
How are the cooling lines in the
engine block for water arranged? Does it
enter at cylinder 1 (front
right when looking at the front of the plenum)
and go through to cylinder 6
or does it return after three cylinders? Would
this be why the last few
cylinders (4-5-6) run hotter since they are not
getting cooled but heated by
water?
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:17:36
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
> Hope
everything went well for you Erik!
Why yes, yes it did! After I had
the rotors turned, that is.
>
> I bet the vibration went away as
you bedded pad material into
> the rotor.
I wish :-( I took
them to a machine shop and they were warped bad enough
that I could SEE them
"wobbling" on the lathe. They took about 0.008" off
of each one and
there was no more vibration after I put them back on.
Porterfield is going to
hear from me, 'cause warped rotors out of the box
just not cool.
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:17:13
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotor warp
I was decelerating a week and a half ago from 140mph
and noticed a bit of
steering wheel shimmy when applying the brakes to slow
down to 115mph or so
for the approaching turn. I suspect at least one
warped rotor. What should I
check first? Fronts then rear? How exactly do I
determine warpage? If I find
a warped rotor, is replacement the only
solution? Do I need to replace both
front or both rear together or can they
all be independently replaced?
TIA.
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT
VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:26:01
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rotor warp
Can be changed independently but why not check all
four if you are at the
shop. This will save on repeated trips
back. Just correcting one will help
but might show a shimmy in another
that the first was covering up.
Someone told me that shimmy in the
steering wheel is the front rotors and a
vibration in the brake pedal is the
rear rotors. I don't say I believe this
but give it a shot.
I
say that since the Big Reds are making the front use (I'm guessin)
70%
instead of 50/50 then you will feel 70% of any warpage from the front
wheels
so the backs are just getting discriminated against I feel.
But
remember that cooling down the car after a driving session correctly
means
moving the car every few minutes so a different part of the rotors
gets the
heat.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with currently warped rotors
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Desert Fox
Sent: Tuesday,
August 14, 2001 12:17 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Rotor warp
I
was decelerating a week and a half ago from 140mph and noticed a bit
of
steering wheel shimmy when applying the brakes to slow down to
115mph or so
for the approaching turn. I suspect at least one warped
rotor. What should I
check first? Fronts then rear? How exactly do I
determine warpage? If I find
a warped rotor, is replacement the only
solution? Do I need to replace both
front or both rear together or can they
all be independently replaced?
TIA.
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT
VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 11:34:14
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motul
I run octane booster on the track routinely with no cat
problems. I've run
on the track without octane booster too.
The
octane rating in Oklahoma and Kansas is 91 for premium. The engine
runs
fine on the highway with that. It's 93 in Texas.
They may
be some difference in the way RON is calculated, but I don't think
you need
to be concerned.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Baker, Simon [SMTP:Simon.Baker@mobisphere.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 10,
2001 5:56 AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Motul
>
> Hi Guys,
> My first post, I live in the UK and have
twin turbo mrk 2, GTO
> stock.
>
> I would like to know what
fuel, we should be using in the cars, I believe
> Japan has An Octane RON
value of 100, here in the UK we have 95 and 97,
> should I be using some
type of Octane booster to get it up to 100 or will
> this damage the CATs,
also will not running the car at 100 Ron damage the
> engine.
>
> I believe you have a RON of 91
>
> Many thanks
>
> Simon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:39:26
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cooling lines in engine block
I am not sure which direction
and path the coolant flows, except
doesn't the water enter and leave near
cylinders 5 and 6 (rear or
passenger's side of engine)? But in any case the
coolant will never
heat the cylinder. The coolant is maybe 200ºF. The
combustion event
occurs between 3500ºF and 4500ºF. The heat transfer in the
engine
will always be from cylinder to block to coolant.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- --- Darren
Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
wrote:
> How are the cooling lines in the engine block for water arranged?
> Does it
> enter at cylinder 1 (front right when looking at the
front of the
> plenum)
> and go through to cylinder 6 or does it
return after three
> cylinders? Would
> this be why the last
few cylinders (4-5-6) run hotter since they
> are not
> getting
cooled but heated by water?
>
> --Flash!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 11:47:19
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension Questions
what spring rates did you get? our
ECS ride is now Sport and SuperSport.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: bdtrent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> Sent:
Friday, August 10, 2001 9:39 PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension Questions
>
> I found the Eibach springs to offer a
better than expected ride. I
> couldn't
> tell much difference
as far as ride.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles J. Williams" <
cwilliam@gci.net>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 9:28 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Suspension
Questions
>
>
> > I always like to be different from
everybody else. I want to upgrade the
> > handling and looks of my car
but I don't want to sacrifice much on the
> ride.
> > I also want
to get the car as quiet as possible.
> >
> > I've been trying
to read everything I can on the 3SI board about
> upgrading
> >
the suspension. What I think I want to do is add/upgrade front and rear
>
sway
> > bars and front and rear strut tower bars. Would this improve
my cars
> > handling without sacrificing the ride?
> >
>
> I'd also like to lower the car about 1.5" but I don't want stiffer
>
springs.
> > Is there anything wrong with taking the factory springs
and cutting
> about
> > 1.5" off of them?
> >
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:43:27
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cooling lines in engine block
Okay so I mixed some words but
won't the water not cool the last cylinder as
much as the first
cylinder? I don't know what temp water is before and
after the radiator
(does anyone have dual water temps for some data here?).
In the Plastic
industry when making a mold you can have several water
cooling lines.
You don't have to have the same line that goes into the mold
make a 10 foot
path and come out to the cooler. They make about 10 lines
one foot long
that run straight through the mold and the temp of the
entering water is
maybe a half degree colder. I bet our water is 10-, 20-,
50-,
100-degrees warmer exiting the block than it is entering.
Anyone know the
speed of the coolant through the block? With temp and
velocity we can
figger out delta T or how fast the exchange rate is I bet.
Maybe our
overheating problems (not over heating but under cooling) is
because the
coolant is not flowing fast enough. Any way to increase
its
speed? Thinking outside the box again.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
Sent: Tuesday, August 14,
2001 12:39 PM
I am not sure which direction and path the coolant flows,
except
doesn't the water enter and leave near cylinders 5 and 6 (rear
or
passenger's side of engine)? But in any case the coolant will
never
heat the cylinder. The coolant is maybe 200ºF. The combustion
event
occurs between 3500ºF and 4500ºF. The heat transfer in the
engine
will always be from cylinder to block to coolant.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:04:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
I've done this on two
1st gen VR4's and one second gen VR4. I have a
difference of opinion
with Jeff Lucius about how it should be done, but he
has a terrific section
on his web page.. I saw a completely different GC
setup on Rich
Merritt's car last weekend, but he also has the camber plates.
There are some
non-obvious things about the install. I have a write up
about our
initial experience with our first two VR4's.
Chuck Willis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Ryan Peterson
[SMTP:ryanp@crcwnet.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 12:11 AM
>
To: Stealth List
> Subject: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to
install?
>
> Anyone who has installed the Ground Control system.
How difficult of an
> install is it. Just a matter of taking out the
struts, adding the sleeves
> and springs and reinstalling? Or is that
vastly oversimplified? (I already
> know how to take out the
struts)
>
> Ryan Peterson
>
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:06:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension Questions
The equation is I believe (measurements
in inches, rate in lb/in):
spring rate = (1406250 x h) / (n x l),
where
h = dxdxdxd and d=wire diameter,
n = number of active coils,
and
l = kxkxk and k=spring outside diameter minus the wire
diameter.
Reduce the number of active coils and the rate increases. Since
the
number of coils is in the denominator, fewer coils means a
larger
spring rate, or stiffer spring. Counter-intuitive isn't it? :)
Note that the height of the spring makes no difference. A 6"
tall
spring with 6 coils has the same spring rate as a 12" tall
spring
with 6 coils, other dimensions being equal. To check my math look
at
the Javascript in the html source on the web page below.
http://www.a1-enterprises.com/wildbill/coilsprate.htmlJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> I don't think that's correct. The spring rate, unless you
have
> progressive
> springs, is a constant, k. The amount of
force exerted by the
> springs
> depends on that constant multiplied
times the amount of deflection
> from the
> spring's relaxed
position. If you cut the springs, they still have
> the same
>
spring rate, they just have a limited travel, so you actually
> cannot get
as
> much force from the spring before they bottom out, or hit the
bump
> stop. If
> anything, they will seem SOFTER, becuase
they bottom out sooner.
>
>
> Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 11:17:08
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel Spacer Help
+> Anyone care to comment on the
foolhardiness of using the stock stud length
+> with 3/16 thk.
spacers? Otherwise, I'm not perfectly clear on whether or
+> not
it's necessary to remove the entire steering nuckle to get the old
studs
+> out and the longer studs in. I very much want to avoid
popping the lower
+> control arm and steering arm ball joints if I can
help it. Is there a
+> consensus on the best way to tackle this
little dilemma? Thanks in advance.
+>
+> Regards,
+>
Davet/92TT
My local wheel guy (actually the owner of The Tire Source in
Boulder CO.)
once told me the rule of thumb is, as long as you have as much
depth of
thread contact as the diameter of the stud, you're fine.
Since I know
he used to be into road course racing big time, I'm inclined to
take his
word for it. Dunno if there are exceptions to this, but it
made sense to
me. Simple physics would say that's as strong a link as
you'll get
barring flaws in the metal at certain points.
hope
that helps, or generates discussion as to the truth or fallacy of
the
statement.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT
VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:25:12
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid
Before we all get
our panties in a knot, I use Motul all the time, and would
not try anything
else, and yet it IS possible to get a temorarily spongy
pedal with it, too ,
if you heat the brakes up real good and don't take time
to cool them
down. Last weekend I got it after I left the track and when I
let
someone out in the paddock. Every liquid has a boiling point. The
real
trick is whether it goes away on cooling, or you have to bleed the
brakes to
get rid of the gas.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:
Monday, August 13, 2001 12:29 PM
> To: 'Turbo Driven';
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid
>
>
> Well Erik? Did you bleed out the entire old brake fluid and
> > then replace with the SynPower Synthetic stuff??
>
>
Yes, I went through 1.5 quarts to be sure. Previous fluid was from
the
> factory.
>
> > How'd the SynPower peform?? Did
you cook 'em pretty good??
>
> ;-) Now that's a
silly question, now isn't it? <Insert Geoff's "I told
> you so"
here> I didn't completely toast it, but after completely
cooling
> down and doing some street driving, I definitely have more pedal
travel
> and
> a "spongy" feel. The fluid DID, however, last
the day at the track (91 F
> and 60% humidity - very unusual for WA)
consisting of 6 15-20 minute
> sessions. A few hot laps into my last
session, I was experimenting with
> speed/braking on the long front
straight and held WOT through the 1st
> braking cone and then STOOD on the
brakes from 115 to get it down to the
> 35
> or so needed to make
the corner. No fade, and the blood pooled in the
> front
> of
my face. I made the corner, too :-) I didn't notice the sponginess
or
> increased pedal travel until after driving home 30 miles on the
freeway at
> more sedate speeds and brake/underhood temperatures.
>
> --Erik
>
> P.S. track report coming, but I have this
"work" stuff to do for now,
> especially after taking Friday off
:-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 20:46:25
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
I should
mention that my new cryo-treated rotors came from Porterfield
warped as
well. Unfortunately, I procrastinated too long before installing
them
and it's surely far too late for me to complain (they were delivered
over a
year ago, but I installed them just a few months ago).
On the other hand,
I've hammered the brakes repeatedly from 130+ mph
(usually to avoid
inconsiderate idiots jumping into the left lane) and the
warp has not
worsened. I guess that's good, at least.
Glad to hear that turning
them did the trick, though I really hate to turn
brand new rotors!
- -
--
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 13:51:42
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Young punk kids 2, old farts 0, one DNF
Driving
west from Topeka on the turnpike, a red 1st generation VR4 came
alongside and
we exchanged spoiler waves. We took a picture and will post
his
driver's licence. Where the heck were these guys when we were
sweating
at the track?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 13,
2001 10:57 PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Young punk kids 2, old farts 0, one DNF
>
>
Yes we all had a most fantastic time. Let us not forget that we came
from
> Boulder, CO; Houston, TX; Cedar Rapids, IA; Pittsburgh, PA and
wherever
> Mike
> is from. Combine those mileages and ... well
... it is mind-boggling. I
> drove 955 miles just to GET to the
track or just under 2,200 miles
> round-trip. <big grin>
>
> We must have passed two dozen other 3/S cars getting here so if
anybody
> lives between PA and KS and was driving East on I-70 Friday or
West on
> I-70
> Monday then you missed me. I met a kid in a
gas station near Topeka who
> owns a 1994 Green VR-4. We all went to
dinner on Sunday at the Outback
> and
> happened to see another
green VR-4 in the lot (Kansas plate "SAG") who was
> not part of our
group. Where do they all come from. There was a Stealth
>
ES
> for sale at the track even. Belonged to a corner
worker.
>
> Incidentally, we were about to call this the First Ever
VR-4 Kansas track
> day since four second gen and one first gen VR-4 were
in attendance. Stay
> tuned for pictures when they get
developed.
>
> I know the CA guys have their days at Thunderhill
and Laguna Seca and a
> few
> at Road America (WI), and Steve Lasher
at Road Atlanta (GA), so let's get
> some more out there to the great
tracks (Mid-Ohio, Watkins Glen, Summit
> Point, VIR, Lime Rock,
etc.). Not only was it fun to partake in a driving
> event (it is
not considered racing really) it helped to diagnose problems
> such as a
loose front anti-sway bar, if a Mustang wheel fits over the Big
> Reds,
where to place jackstands under a car, etc. Lots of good technical
>
knowledge this past weekend.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 14:06:09
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
Dennis,
That is
absolutely incorrect - the maximum extension of the struts can
EASILY exceed
the maximum height of the springs supplied with the GC kit.
All you have to
do is jack up the car to see this, or look at the completed
strut assembly
with the GC installed.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Dg B [SMTP:dbretton@hotmail.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:07 AM
> To:
ryanp@crcwnet.com> Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
>
> Hi
Ryan,
>
> You are correct in your
statement. The springs are not tied to the
> spring perches., so
they cannot assist in slowing rarification (sp?) of
> the
>
strut. However, the springs are designed such that their max
height
> matches
> the maximum extension that the struts may
have. That is, there should be
> no
> noticible separation
between the strut and the spring perches when the
> strut
> is
fully extended. By doing this, the action of the spring is
effectively
>
> "tied" to the action of the strut on
compression.
>
> Regards,
> Dennis
>
> >From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
> >To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
> >Date:
Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:20:16 -0700
> >
> >Thanks Jeff. Very
informative web page. I think you've talked me out of
>
>the
> >GC system.
> >
> >I disagree with the idea
that the stock springs might act in both
> >directions. They are not
"captured" in the context that they also work in
> >tension. They would
have to be physically tied to the strut top and
> bottom
> >seats
for this to happen. They are not, they just press against them.
>
Plus,
> >I think this would be undesirable, as you want the suspension
to press
> down
> >as far as possible and as fast as possible.
Otherwise, the wheels would
> >tend
> >to "float" over rough
terrain rather than keep contact with the ground.
> >
> >I
didn't think it was possible to do as much to these engines as you've
>
>done. Nice job!
> >
> >Ryan Peterson
>
>www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 14:58:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
This is
the second reason I will never have rotors cryo treated by
Porterfield.
I've seen as little as 0.002" warpage cause squeaking but
0.008" is
ridiculous for rotors out of the box. This is definitely not the
hat
tolerance problem described elsewhere.
Hope you had a great weekend at
the track! Send us a track report!
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, August 14, 2001 11:18 AM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers
List (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW
pads and
> rotors
>
> > Hope everything went well for you
Erik!
>
> Why yes, yes it did! After I had the rotors turned,
that is.
> >
> > I bet the vibration went away as you bedded
pad material into
> > the rotor.
>
> I wish :-( I
took them to a machine shop and they were warped bad enough
> that I could
SEE them "wobbling" on the lathe. They took about 0.008" off
> of
each one and there was no more vibration after I put them back on.
>
Porterfield is going to hear from me, 'cause warped rotors out of the
box
> just not cool.
>
> --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 14:59:48
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotor warp
take them off and have them turned.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Desert Fox
[SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 11:17
AM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Rotor warp
>
> I
was decelerating a week and a half ago from 140mph and noticed a bit of
>
steering wheel shimmy when applying the brakes to slow down to 115mph
or
> so
> for the approaching turn. I suspect at least one warped
rotor. What should
> I
> check first? Fronts then rear? How exactly
do I determine warpage? If I
> find
> a warped rotor, is replacement
the only solution? Do I need to replace
> both
> front or both rear
together or can they all be independently replaced?
>
>
TIA.
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> 98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 15:09:39
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cooling lines in engine block
Flash has a point, the heat
transfer rate depends on the temperature
difference, so the rate of heat
transfer out of the upstream cylinders will
be greater than downstream
cylinders. Whether it's significant or not
depends on how different the
input coolant temp is fromI guess th the outlet
temp.
I have
been also sort of concerned about how much cooling the rear turbo
gets,
relative to the front turbo, just because of the way it is tucked in
there in
back of the second bank. I know it gets active cooling from both
water
and oil lines, but the heat shield gets hot enough to cook on.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 11:43
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cooling lines in engine block
>
> Okay so I
mixed some words but won't the water not cool the last cylinder
>
as
> much as the first cylinder? I don't know what temp water is
before and
> after the radiator (does anyone have dual water temps for
some data
> here?).
>
> In the Plastic industry when making a
mold you can have several water
> cooling lines. You don't have to
have the same line that goes into the
> mold
> make a 10 foot path
and come out to the cooler. They make about 10 lines
> one foot long
that run straight through the mold and the temp of the
> entering water is
maybe a half degree colder. I bet our water is 10-,
> 20-,
>
50-, 100-degrees warmer exiting the block than it is entering.
>
>
Anyone know the speed of the coolant through the block? With temp
and
> velocity we can figger out delta T or how fast the exchange rate is
I bet.
> Maybe our overheating problems (not over heating but under
cooling) is
> because the coolant is not flowing fast enough. Any
way to increase its
> speed? Thinking outside the box again.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
Lucius
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 12:39 PM
>
> I am not
sure which direction and path the coolant flows, except
> doesn't the
water enter and leave near cylinders 5 and 6 (rear or
> passenger's side
of engine)? But in any case the coolant will never
> heat the cylinder.
The coolant is maybe 200ºF. The combustion event
> occurs between 3500ºF
and 4500ºF. The heat transfer in the engine
> will always be from cylinder
to block to coolant.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 15:34:52
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension Questions
okay, now I have to go dig out my old
engineering and physics text books.
growing old is hell, until you consider
the alternative!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001
12:06 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Suspension Questions
>
> The equation is I
believe (measurements in inches, rate in lb/in):
>
> spring rate =
(1406250 x h) / (n x l), where
>
> h = dxdxdxd and d=wire
diameter,
> n = number of active coils, and
> l = kxkxk and k=spring
outside diameter minus the wire diameter.
>
> Reduce the number of
active coils and the rate increases. Since the
> number of coils is in the
denominator, fewer coils means a larger
> spring rate, or stiffer spring.
Counter-intuitive isn't it? :)
>
> Note that the height of the
spring makes no difference. A 6" tall
> spring with 6 coils has the same
spring rate as a 12" tall spring
> with 6 coils, other dimensions being
equal. To check my math look at
> the Javascript in the html source on the
web page below.
>
>
http://www.a1-enterprises.com/wildbill/coilsprate.html>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> ---
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> > I don't think that's correct. The spring rate, unless
you have
> > progressive
> > springs, is a constant, k.
The amount of force exerted by the
> > springs
> > depends on
that constant multiplied times the amount of deflection
> > from
the
> > spring's relaxed position. If you cut the springs, they
still have
> > the same
> > spring rate, they just have a
limited travel, so you actually
> > cannot get as
> > much
force from the spring before they bottom out, or hit the bump
> >
stop. If
> > anything, they will seem SOFTER, becuase they bottom
out sooner.
> >
> >
> > Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 13:41:37
-0700
From: Ferry Holidjaja <
tetu@surfcity.net>
Subject: Team3S:
WTB: Eibach
Hi,
Does anyone know where can I get a cheap Eibach
for 94 3000GT Base ?
Thanks.
Yours,
Ferry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 13:50:48
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Track Report(long): Mmmm.... Brakes For Breakfast, part I
I
cooked them myself, and they smell really good! Want some?
This is
all on my web page now, complete with pictures and better
formatting.
Read on if you don't have web access, but if you do, click
here:
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/DrivingStuff/BR20010810/BR20010810.html(make
it all one line if it isn't in your message)
Part I, since the list
server bounced it for being too long...
On Friday (08/10/01), I
went to my first non-AutoX track event. It
organized by the Bremerton
Sports Car Club (
http://www.bscc.net) at
the
Bremerton Raceway in (you guessed it) Bremerton, WA. The weather
was sunny
and unusually hot (for WA) - pushing mid 90's, so we expected
cooling
(engine, brakes, etc.) would be important. Only 15 or so people
showed up,
so with that small of a turnout, we got a lot of track time.
I learned a
lot, had way to much fun, made my adrenal glands work overtime,
and I didn't
break anything. It was a good day.
The track
consisted of two parallel airport runways with paved
connectors at various
intervals. Orange cones indicated where you were
supposed to be (and
not be) as well as corner apexes and braking distances
at the turn-ins.
Upon entering the track, there was about a 3/8-1/2 mile
straight followed by
a 180 degree carousel (turn 1) that cut over to the
other runway. The
back straight was only straight for about 1/8 of a mile
and from there it was
a series of "S" curves (turn 2) with a hairpin at the
end(turn 3). Then
the track crossed back over to the first runway and the
next lap began.
The total length of the track was about 1.2 miles. The
track diagram is
on my website (INSERT LINK HERE). They warned us... "Three
braking
zones in 1.2 miles is gonna be hard on brakes." Just what I need
with a
2-ton car :-}
I was (of course) in the novice group, so I spent the first
session
watching the experienced guys fly around the track. We talked a
little bit
about the basics and observed the lines the cars were taking on
the track.
After that, each of the novices hopped into the passenger seat of
one of the
experienced guys' cars and rode for a couple laps. I rode in
Bill's Porsche
944 (trailered and prepped), and after the "S" curves, I
couldn't believe we
were still on the track. The track looks a lot
different at speed than when
you're standing around observing or looking at
the map.
Then it was time to get into my car, fire it up, and head out of
the
pits. I took the first couple laps REALLY conservatively to get an
idea of
how the track was laid out and get used to my driving my car like
I've never
been able to drive it before. <grin> On the first lap,
I still managed to
misjudge the hairpin at then end and trample a cone or
two. Glad I had the
bra on the front of the car :) I took that
corner at about 20-25mph from
then on. I kept it in 3rd (except to
briefly grab 2nd to pull out of the
hairpin) for the first two sessions, so I
never went above 95mph or so on
the front straight. I tried to remember
all the stuff I've learned from
various people/books about driving, and I
think I may have actually used
some of it :-) I was also trying to be
"nice" to my brakes for fear of
overheating or warping them, hoping that
they'd last the day. I think the
hardest thing to remember was not to
lift off the throttle (let alone go for
the brakes) if you think you're going
too fast in a corner. I was pretty
good about it, but every "normal
driving" instinct told me to brake or at
least slow down in the "S"
curves...
So by the 4th session, I was getting pretty comfortable with
the car
and the track and had had a few things pointed out to me by the
experienced
people. At that point, I was pushing 105-110mph on the
front straight,
nailing the brakes at the first braking cone to slow down to
35mph,
double-apexing turn 1, grabbing 2nd on the way out and on full power
by
track out. I hit about 90mph by the braking cones for turn 2 ("S"
curves),
stabbed the brakes to haul the car down to around 60mph to enter
turn 2. I
tried to clip the apex cone on each part of the "S" curves,
but I found that
I need to learn where the passenger-side front is on my car
as I crunched
the apex cone on one of the right-handers twice. On a
good lap, I could
maintain 65-70mph through the "S" curves and power out of
the last one,
hitting 80mph before having to brake for the nasty hairpin that
required
about 25mph at the apex. I'd then zig through the exit of the
hairpin,
breathe for a second, and make the 90 degree left onto the front
straight
starting at 75% throttle, and exiting under full power in 2nd gear
(about
40mph) on the right-hand edge of the track. And I did that
over and over
and over to my heart's content ...
The ... um...
exciting (or scary, depending on your viewpoint) parts
came during the 6th
(15-20 minute) session at the end of the day. By that
time, I was
feeling pretty good about things and being fairly consistent. I
began
to experiment a *little* trying to see where I could shave off
some
time. I decided to try going deeper into turn 1 and see how that
worked. I
ran full-throttle up to the 2nd braking cone and then *stood*
on the brakes.
115-35 with no fade(after several hot laps), and comfortably
made my entry
into turn 1. That felt good, but I don't know that my
current brakes could
take that kind of punishment repeatedly. I managed
to keep an M3 behind me,
only gaining a car-length or two each lap, for about
5 laps. Then I had to
let him by. When the race-prepped Porsche
911 (993) showed up in my
rear-view, I simply got over to the right on the
next straight and watched
him fly by after I waved him around. Such a
beautiful sound. I also played
tag with an instructor-driven (94?) MR2
Turbo for several laps where he'd
begin to catch up in the twisties and then
he'd become a little dot in my
rearview on the straights.
Right
about then, I was experimenting with my line in the "S" curves
because others
seemed to really leave me or catch up to me through there. I
made some
progress by trying to be as smooth as possible and staying on
the
throttle. Then it happened, all so quickly. I've had some
time to analyze
it and this is what I think happened: I made the
(leftward) entry into turn
2 a little faster than previously and went pretty
wide on the ensuing
right-hander. As I was swinging the car back to the
left (near the 5th X in
turn 2 on the map), my tail got a little loose.
I started to give it a tad
more throttle, and it didn't feel better. I
then listened to my (bad)
instincts and lifted off the throttle very
slightly, but enough to transfer
some weight to the front tires. The
front tires bit, and the rear got
completely loose and snapped back
clockwise. I spun and ended up to the
right of the 6th cone of
turn 2, pointed toward turn 1, but still on the
paved part. That was
about a 270 degree spin and I didn't have the presence
of mind to push the
clutch in, so I stalled it and skidded backwards for the
last 6 feet or so
since engines don't like to go backwards. I was mildly
shaken up (more
ticked off), but the car started right up and I quickly
pulled off the track
and headed down to the paddock to cool off the
engine/brakes and think about
why I spun. I decided to call it a day since
it was late, I was tired,
and everyone else was packing up. I spun my car
at over 60mph.
Not something I'd like to repeat, but it was pretty cool.
- ----see part
II in the next message---
- --Erik
"Young Poop In
Training"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#577
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