Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, August 11
2001 Volume 01 : Number
574
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 10 Aug 2001 20:30:25 -0800
From: "Charles J. Williams" <
cwilliam@gci.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension Questions
Thanks to everybody for all the
information.
I'm definitely doing the sway bars and strut tower
bars. I'll check into
the Eibach springs and forget about cutting the
original ones. The Teins
look really good but more than I can afford at
this time.
Charles Williams
95 Stealth R/T Jet Black
Eagle River,
Alaska
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of bdtrent
Sent: Friday, August
10, 2001 6:39 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspension
Questions
I found the Eibach springs to offer a better than expected
ride. I couldn't
tell much difference as far as
ride.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Charles J. Williams" <
cwilliam@gci.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 08, 2001 9:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Suspension
Questions
> I always like to be different from everybody else. I
want to upgrade the
> handling and looks of my car but I don't want to
sacrifice much on the
ride.
> I also want to get the car as quiet as
possible.
>
> I've been trying to read everything I can on the 3SI
board about upgrading
> the suspension. What I think I want to do is
add/upgrade front and rear
sway
> bars and front and rear strut tower
bars. Would this improve my cars
> handling without sacrificing the
ride?
>
> I'd also like to lower the car about 1.5" but I don't want
stiffer
springs.
> Is there anything wrong with taking the factory
springs and cutting about
> 1.5" off of them?
>
> Thanks in
advance for any help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 01:12:27
-0700
From: "Steven M." <
nws3@winisp.net>
Subject: Team3S: OT:
Northwest Stealth/3000GT August 18th St. Helens Gathering Details
Go to
http://www.nws3.com/ and click the big fat
link in the middle of
the page to see the details.
Meeting in
Kelso (those of us to the west) and going up to Windy ridge.
Bring
sunscreen!
Steven Mohr
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 22:17:36
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Notes on Big Reds
For those interested, the big reds weigh
approx. 1lb. more than the stock
front calipers. The 2nd gen rotors
weigh 18lbs. ea. vs. 15lbs. for the
first gen. rotors. (It is worth
noting how much more affective the cooling
vanes appear to be on the 2nd gen
rotors). Factor in the pads and brackets
and its safe to say the big
red conversion adds at least 5lbs. per wheel.
Mostly trivial given the
indicated benefits. I was more concerned with the
fact that the 2nd
gen. rotors appear to leave 5-10% of the big red pad
completely unused.
If our rotors were about a 1/4" wider, we would be
getting more of the full
benefit of the Brembos. Just some FYI as I embark
on the big red
conversion journey.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 15:37:57
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: H & R Wheel Spacers
Does anyone know if it's nessesary to
replace the factory wheel studs when
using the H & R 5mm offset wheel
spacer? The big reds won't clear the
aftermarket 18" wheels I'm
using.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 21:23:42
-0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Cool Air Intake
I thought about trying to get direct outside air
to my
intake, and after studying the stock configuration
of the front
elements affecting this flow, I concluded
that by and large, the engine was
already getting fresh
air. Am I in error? Look at the
paths!
Regards,
ptg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 20:20:38
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cool Air Intake
I did some preliminary temperature measurements about a
year or so
ago, what I found using a fast acting thermocouple was:
At
idle the air temps [ at the K&N filter] started to climb almost
instantly
and peaked at about 150º [75º ambient].
As soon as the car started
to move the temp dropped to about 10º
above ambient.
In third gear at
about 30 mph and going to WOT the temperature started
to climb to 125º and up
--- I had to back off because of traffic conditions
but the temperature was
still climbing. I repeated that portion a couple
of times and the results
were consistent.
My take on the minimal testing --- at cruise no problem,
at WOT there
is great room for improvement. I guess I should set up a probe
at the track
and see what the input temps do under sustained load.
I
wasn't able to get temps at the MAS because I didn't have a thermocouple
that
I could put in the Y pipe with quick enough response to make any
useful
readings. I wish someone with additional resources would take
the project up
and get full data. You need several very small [ 4mil bead
or less ]
thermocouples and a switchable reader or better yet a multi
channel recorder.
I'd love to see ambiant, air filter, Y pipe and maybe
before and after IC's
all displayed at the same
time.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Paul T. Golley <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
To: Team3S
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 11, 2001 7:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: Cool Air
Intake
> I thought about trying to get direct outside air to
my
> intake, and after studying the stock configuration
> of the
front elements affecting this flow, I concluded
> that by and large, the
engine was already getting fresh
> air. Am I in error? Look at the
paths!
> Regards,
> ptg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 01:14:30
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cool Air Intake
I found this one yesterday, notice the black
corrugated pipe underneath the
fuse box.
http://www.chrismore.com/graphics/cold_air_3000gt.jpgChris,
I am wondering if anything had to be moved to route such a thick
pipe
between the radiator, the coolant overflow reservoir and the headlight
wall.
I was thinking about denting that headlight wall out a little. ;-)
Thanks.
Philip
'95 R/T TT
At 09:23 PM 8/11/2001, Paul T.
Golley wrote:
>I thought about trying to get direct outside air to
my
>intake, and after studying the stock configuration
>of the front
elements affecting this flow, I concluded
>that by and large, the engine
was already getting fresh
>air. Am I in error? Look at the
paths!
>Regards,
>ptg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#574
***************************************
