Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, August 9
2001 Volume 01 : Number
572
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:55:27 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question about HKS EVC IV and 300ZX
Well since you are posting to
this list the answer is simple ... get the
VR-4. If nothing else it has
AWD which will always beat the RWD cars in the
long run. Get a ride in
one of these beasts with someone willing to let the
AWD kick in and you will
be sold.
Do a search on the web for the EVC IV and you might find
something. I found
similar notes on Jeff Lucius' page (
www.stealth316.com) and other hits
so
good luck there. Jeff's page is the Bible for our cars. Try
finding a page
like his on a 300ZX and then you'll see how much support we
give each other.
Good luck. We are looking forward to your next
post which will say "My new
VR-4."
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Nemisis
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001
8:05 PM
Does anyone have a "Step by step" guide on the HKS EVC IV similar
to the one
that was just posted about the blitz? Is the installation
procedure similar?
I'm in the process of trying to decide between a
highly modded 400hp 300ZX
and a 3000GT VR-4 (BPU).. could anyone give me a
comparison of the two cars?
Right now I have a 95 Base 3000GT and I love it..
but i need more power.
Right now it's almost up in the air between the Z and
the VR-4.. theyre both
show cars and in excellent shape!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 00:02:01
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What hoods fit?
We were contemplating the underside of my 94
VR4's hood today, conjecturing
where good places might be to cut scoops. If
you look under there, you'll
see a perfect spot to cut a big rectangular hole
right over the K&N,
perfect for mounting a forward-facing scoop that
would duct cold air right
into the air cleaner; then, back over the tops of
the struts, there are two
other excellent places to cut a hole for backward
facing scoops or louvers
to vent hot air out. All such candidates for scoops
are areas where only
the outer layer of hood exists, so it would be easy to
cut through without
violating the integrity of the hood supports.
It
might also be possible to build an air box around the K&N to isolate
it
completely from hot engine compartment air.
I was wondering how
hard it might be to get a junkyard hood. Does anyone
know what years are
interchangeable with a 94 VR4? Will non-turbo cars fit
too? Any idea
what a junkyard hood might cost? If I can get something, no
matter how
gunky or whatever color, I'd be willing to cobble something
together just to
experiment with scoops and other hood-based cooling methods.
Rich
94
3000GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 01:04:16
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: SmarTire
I posted this to the list ages ago (check the archives I
guess). I
recommend waiting for the second gen SmarTire system although
it is real
pricey. It offers lots of better options.
I was going
to use this for the racing car but it doesn't do the really fun
thing of
letting air out to maintain pressure. Not often will air pressure
drop
during the span of 20-minutes racing so you don't need the Humvee
system to
inflate the pressure but just regulate it (I think valve stems
do
this).
The two systems are also not compatible so you would have to
throw away the
old system and install the new one. I'd say wait for now
unless you really
want to gadget. Otherwise, for the money it costs I
just get out the tire
gauge and check it myself.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 01:12:23
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: What hoods fit?
> I was wondering how hard it might be to get
a junkyard hood. Does anyone
> know what years are interchangeable
with a 94 VR4? Will non-turbo cars fit
> too? Any idea what a
junkyard hood might cost?
Hey Rich, I was attempting this for a while
myself. Try
www.car-part.com
They've got a good listing of what your local junk yards may have. The
price
varies as to condition and year of the car, but for a 94 VR4, you can
use any
94-99 3KGT or 94-96 Stealth hood. Good luck, post pics and
tell us what you
find.
Also, be sure to check out someone's web page on
the latest 3/S gathering.
John Adams put a nice scoop on the center
rear of his hood on his 94? Stealth
and there should be some pics somewhere.
- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
& Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated
Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost
Controller @ .9 Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 01:19:40
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
Because if the engine has a lower pressure area
to suck air into the hood
then it can not have a higher pressure area in the
same place to let air to
exhaust. Take the rubber seal off the back of
the hood and air will rush
forward (even at 100 mph) and go into the engine
bay. ANY hole in the hood
will also suck air in and will not let air
out since PV=nRT still applies
(or whatever the formula is where those
pressures need to be equal).
Isn't this correct thinking?
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Shane Thoms
Sent: Thursday,
August 02, 2001 9:53 PM
To: Jim Matthews; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood
Scoop for TT
I would like to inject an idea here also. Why not have
a double ended
scoop?
The front would grab air into the FIPK or airbox and
the rear could allow
underhood
air drawn out?
I think it would look
sweet and be incredibly functional.
Shane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 01:38:04
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question about HKS EVC IV and 300ZX
Since I have owned both cars I will be the first to say I enjoy the VR4
much
more.. Im not saying the Z isnt a great car b/c it is a very
solid
sports car.. Both cars are easily tuned for very high
performance.. The
main difference was already stated.. The AWD makes a
world of difference..
Especially if this car will be driven in all weather
conditions.. The Z's
tail will get very loose in good and poor weather,
especially the latter..
The second major
difference IMO is the interior.. I very much prefer
the GT's interior
if that makes any difference to you..
I believe you also metioned
the VR4 was stock compared to the already
tuned Z.. Consider that part
of the enjoyment of owning either vehicle is
you get to tune and mod it to
exactly what you want and not what someone
else wanted..
Either way
you get a great car with some serious power....
Go for the AWD
traction...
Scott
94' VR4
Borla,Apexi AVC-R,K&N,Greddy S-Type
BOV
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:06:57
-0700
From: "Steven M." <
nws3@winisp.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Hood Scoop for TT
It all depends on the way the air is flowing, you want
your intake to be
in place with a large amount of pressure (front of hood
where many NACA
ducting setups are), and the exhaust where the aerodynamics
of the car
cause lower pressure than under the hood. Keep in mind the
entire
engine bay is pretty much open from the bottom, and there will be
all
sorts of turbulences from that, if you want to make our car.
Which
direction the air flows depends on where the air is under less
pressure
relative to the other side of your hole. If there is less
pressure
under the hood, air goes in, less pressure outside, air goes
out.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:20 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood
Scoop for TT
Because if the engine has a lower pressure area to suck air
into the
hood
then it can not have a higher pressure area in the same
place to let air
to
exhaust. Take the rubber seal off the back of
the hood and air will
rush
forward (even at 100 mph) and go into the
engine bay. ANY hole in the
hood
will also suck air in and will not
let air out since PV=nRT still
applies
(or whatever the formula is where
those pressures need to be equal).
Isn't this correct thinking?
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Shane Thoms
Sent: Thursday,
August 02, 2001 9:53 PM
To: Jim Matthews; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood
Scoop for TT
I would like to inject an idea here also. Why
not have a double ended
scoop?
The front would grab air into the FIPK or
airbox and the rear could
allow
underhood
air drawn out?
I think
it would look sweet and be incredibly functional.
Shane
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 02:13:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
> If there is less pressure under the hood,
air goes in,
> less pressure outside, air goes out.
But under the
hood can not be both low pressure AND high pressure at the
same time.
Your double-ended scoop will not work. If you separate the in
from the
out by the hood's length then maybe it could work. A double-ended
scoop
would scoop air in the front and air in the back of it and no air
would
escape.
I thought his was already covered. I just know that planes
stay up in the
air for a reason (air flowing over the wing and under it are a
different
pressure which pushes the plane up into the air). What you
are saying is
that the air going over the wing will all of a sudden switch to
an opposite
pressure and then back again.
Air under the hood is always
around the same pressure and the air on the
outside is always around the same
pressure. You can't really just switch
this on or off -- it is there so
you need to work around it somehow.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Steven M.
Sent: Thursday,
August 09, 2001 2:07 AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
It all depends on the
way the air is flowing, you want your intake to be
in place with a large
amount of pressure (front of hood where many NACA
ducting setups are), and
the exhaust where the aerodynamics of the car
cause lower pressure than under
the hood. Keep in mind the entire
engine bay is pretty much open from
the bottom, and there will be all
sorts of turbulences from that, if you want
to make our car. Which
direction the air flows depends on where the air
is under less pressure
relative to the other side of your hole. If
there is less pressure
under the hood, air goes in, less pressure outside,
air goes out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:35:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension Questions
> I'd also like to lower the car
about 1.5" but I don't want stiffer
> springs.
> Is there anything
wrong with taking the factory springs and cutting
> about
> 1.5" off
of them?
If you cut the factory springs they are going to be stiffer,
part of
what determines the rate of a spring is its length. Not stiffer
in
any way you can really control though. You are really guessing
at
the results if you decide to cut the stock springs. There
are
aftermarket springs avaliable from several suppliers which lower
the
car about 1.5" and are designed for that ride height. The only
time
cuttings springs is "acceptable"(in my book anyway) is when
there
just isn't an acceptable alternative.
Casey
Dallas, TX
'92
Silver VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:51:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension Questions
Cut springs also introduce other really
ugly things.
Your struts were designed to work at a specific height...now
they are
shorter. Compression & rebound rates will be way bad..this
causes the
cheap-O bouncy-bouncy look that all $10-spring-modification Hondas
have.
On Wed, 8 Aug 2001, Casey Rayman wrote:
> > I'd also
like to lower the car about 1.5" but I don't want stiffer
> >
springs.
> > Is there anything wrong with taking the factory springs
and cutting
> > about
> > 1.5" off of them?
>
>
If you cut the factory springs they are going to be stiffer, part of
>
what determines the rate of a spring is its length. Not stiffer in
>
any way you can really control though. You are really guessing at
>
the results if you decide to cut the stock springs. There are
>
aftermarket springs avaliable from several suppliers which lower the
> car
about 1.5" and are designed for that ride height. The only time
>
cuttings springs is "acceptable"(in my book anyway) is when there
> just
isn't an acceptable alternative.
>
> Casey
> Dallas,
TX
> '92 Silver VR-4
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:45:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: AmkreadGTO <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What hoods fit?
Here my version of a hood scoop for our car..
theres a
about 3" X 5" opening cut on the hood...
http://www.geocities.com/Amkreadgto/Scoop01.JPGI
also took off the rear weather stripes to vent air?
/George
- ---
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> We were contemplating the underside of my 94 VR4's
> hood
today, conjecturing
> where good places might be to cut scoops. If
you
> look under there, you'll
> see a perfect spot to cut a big
rectangular hole
> right over the K&N,
> perfect for mounting a
forward-facing scoop that
> would duct cold air right
> into the air
cleaner; then, back over the tops of
> the struts, there are two
>
other excellent places to cut a hole for backward
> facing scoops or
louvers
> to vent hot air out. All such candidates for scoops
> are
areas where only
> the outer layer of hood exists, so it would be
easy
> to cut through without
> violating the integrity of the hood
supports.
>
> It might also be possible to build an air box
around
> the K&N to isolate it
> completely from hot engine
compartment air.
>
> I was wondering how hard it might be to get
a
> junkyard hood. Does anyone
> know what years are interchangeable
with a 94 VR4?
> Will non-turbo cars fit
> too? Any idea what
a junkyard hood might cost? If
> I can get something, no
>
matter how gunky or whatever color, I'd be willing
> to cobble
something
> together just to experiment with scoops and other
>
hood-based cooling methods.
>
> Rich
> 94 3000GT
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:57:10
-0700
From: "Steven M." <
nws3@winisp.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Hood Scoop for TT
Even on a plane wing, different areas will have
different pressures. So
if we assume the entire underside is the same
pressure (which is not
true since we have the underside/front open. But
assume the inside is a
constant pressure, if the outside pressure is higher
(at dead front of
hood for example) it will go in. if the outside
pressure is lower (say
right after you have a rise in the hood, you will get
a vacuum that will
at least churn air. The most efficient design would
require windtunnel
testing. But both naca ducting and venting are
proven concepts.
In the end if you have a hole in the hood,
regardless of which direction
it flows, if the air is churning heat is being
exchanged, and the engine
bay is being cooled, just not as efficiently as if
you had an optimal
duct/vent setup.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Wednesday, August 08, 2001 11:13 PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood
Scoop for TT
> If there is less pressure under the hood, air goes
in,
> less pressure outside, air goes out.
But under the hood can
not be both low pressure AND high pressure at the
same time. Your
double-ended scoop will not work. If you separate the
in
from the
out by the hood's length then maybe it could work.
A
double-ended
scoop would scoop air in the front and air in the back of
it and no air
would escape.
I thought his was already covered. I
just know that planes stay up in
the
air for a reason (air flowing over
the wing and under it are a different
pressure which pushes the plane up into
the air). What you are saying
is
that the air going over the wing
will all of a sudden switch to an
opposite
pressure and then back
again.
Air under the hood is always around the same pressure and the air
on the
outside is always around the same pressure. You can't really
just
switch
this on or off -- it is there so you need to work around it
somehow.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Steven M.
Sent: Thursday,
August 09, 2001 2:07 AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
It all depends on the
way the air is flowing, you want your intake to be
in place with a large
amount of pressure (front of hood where many NACA
ducting setups are), and
the exhaust where the aerodynamics of the car
cause lower pressure than under
the hood. Keep in mind the entire
engine bay is pretty much open from
the bottom, and there will be all
sorts of turbulences from that, if you want
to make our car. Which
direction the air flows depends on where the air
is under less pressure
relative to the other side of your hole. If
there is less pressure
under the hood, air goes in, less pressure outside,
air goes out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 11:19:28
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Tunning the Blitz DSBC
> >This where the
initial settings we tried three years ago and at the end it
> >is
annoying to always hit the limiter as well as 0.13 kg/cm2 is too much
>
>overboost.
>
>I think you meant to say "1.03 kg/cm2" is too much
boost.
No, I spoke of overboost !
>This is really up to debate,
but I agree that 1.03 kg/cm2 sustained boost
>is too much
No,
depends on the amount of knock. I do have a customers car that has zero
knock but with the 9b or 13g boost falls off after 4800
anyways.
>other counterparts like the Supra or 300Z TT's. Most
of the Supra people
>I've talked to run 1.1 - 1.2 kg/cm2, and 300Z people
run about the same.
>Does anybody have experience with one of these cars
that can verify this?
Yes, this is true, but a Supra with 1.26 bar of
boost was dynoed with 412PS
while a 3000GT at 1.0 bar got 408PS. Therefore
the designer made a High
boost engine while Mitsu made a low boost engine.
Just check the new Volvos
that are running 1.5 bars stock !!
>Even
my Miata with its stock 9.5:1 compression will safely take 0.95 kg/cm2
-
>it does have an upgraded fuel system though.
Of course, more
fuel is needed when increasing the mass of air entering the
engine. Same
belongs to our cars after 1 bar of boost as the injectors are
maxxed
out.
>Speaking of detonation, does anybody have a recommendation for
an OBD-II scan
>tool? Does anybody out there have experience using
one on a VR-4?
You don't have any knock data of the ECU on OBDII but you
can watch the
timing if it is retarded when rpm
increases.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 06:10:34
-0400
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Hood
Scoop for TT
Just an update for what we have going on the scoop, im
getting great input
from here so please keep the ideas coming. The
scoop will be molded and
placed behind the right front headlight on the hood.
Im finishing up the CNC
program to make the air box now, we are making a
sealed air box that will
wrap around the K&N and seal to the hood when
closed (still working on this
part) I plan on taking a was6 ta for a "test
ride" this weekend and finding
out how they keep water out of their ram air
and will incorporate something
hopefully similar. does anyone see any flaws
with this yet? any extra ideas
or input would be appreciated. Thanks a
ton
Ron Zilinsky
92 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 07:49:03
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Motul
Hey gang, where can I get a good deal on Motul 600. I
see Porterfield is
selling it for $11.95/ 1/2 liter. Anyone see it for
less anywhere else ?I
will probably buy a case if that makes a difference in
the price.
TIA,
Francis
'96 R/T TT
(SAVC-R BC, Spearco WI,
Magnacore wires, NGK plugs .32, test pipe, Autometer
Boost Gauge, RPS TCC,
HKS MegaFlow intake, freeflow precats, Goodridge Steel
Braided Brake Lines,
Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors, R4S pads, 1G DSM
BOV, Ground Control
springs(500/300 F/R), Supra Fuel Pump)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 09:09:30
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
> under the hood can not be both low
pressure AND high pressure at the
> same time.
No it
couldn't be both, but it can be even with the pressure outside of the
car.
> A double-ended scoop would scoop air in the
front and air in the back
> of it and no air would escape.
I
think that air could come in one side and go out the other, unfortunately,
unless there is a wall or something that will redirect it over the engine,
it
will take the shortest path possible to the exit of the scoop. If
that
intake and exhaust of the scoop are open to each other, air will simply
flow
through the opening and back outside. It would look and perform
like a
poorly designed hood spoiler.
...My two cents...
-
-Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK &
Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors,
R-4S Pads, & SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @
.9 Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 08:57:29
-0500
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
My .02...
The double-ended scoop could
be designed with a slight "Hourglass" shape on the inside surface. This would
accelerate the air entering the scoop and create a localized area of low
pressure over the filter intake. This low pressure area would (could) force the
higher pressure air under the hood (all air under the hood would be a higher
pressure as compared to the inside of the scoop) to travel to the filter.
Granted, the whole idea to get cold, fresh air to the intake. Maybe this could
come from an area under the car instead of on top.
It would be akin to
blowing across a drinking straw that has the bottom of the straw in liquid. The
liquid is pushed up the straw towards the low pressure of your
blowing.
Examine the way an air operated vacuum pump operates.
Any
scoop would take experimentation and development. Maybe I could ask one of my
friends (Dr. Michael Selig) here at the U of Illinois for his comments. He also
allows me to use the tunnels when I need to.
Craig
94' TT (22k
original miles)
Eibach's
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, &
SS lines
Custom 3" exhaust
93' TT wheels on modified 94' calipers
Boost
enhancement on the way
>>> <
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com> 08/09/01
08:09AM >>>
> under the hood can not be both low pressure AND
high pressure at the
> same time.
No it couldn't be both,
but it can be even with the pressure outside of the
car.
> A double-ended scoop would scoop air in the front and air in
the back
> of it and no air would escape.
I think that air
could come in one side and go out the other, unfortunately,
unless there is
a wall or something that will redirect it over the engine, it
will take the
shortest path possible to the exit of the scoop. If that
intake and
exhaust of the scoop are open to each other, air will simply flow
through
the opening and back outside. It would look and perform like a
poorly
designed hood spoiler.
...My two cents...
- -Paul -
3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped
plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads,
& SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 16:11:25
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Yes they are Alamos!
Merritt wrote:
>
> Yes, indeed,
they are Alamo intercoolers!
> All this time I thought I had a stock
motor. Wonder what else is in
there...
Hmmm, might also explain the
odd overheating problem you reported last year
(still there?), though I would
expect upgraded intercoolers to lower temps.
Why isn't Cathy installing
the new intercoolers on her car?
I'm disappointed that it turns out
you've been beating up on your rivals
with a car that's not stock after
all!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 16:11:28
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: "Brake-in" procedure
> R4S pads don't require a
break in
After installing new cryo rotors and R4S pads, the pads stunk
and faded
profusely coming down the first two mountain passes. After
that they
stopped stinking and faded much less.
- - --
Jim Matthews
- Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 08:21:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Motul
I'll kinda sorta sell it for about $9/bottle, but its
such a PITA I would
- -really- like to sell you a case for
$90+tax/shipping.
On Thu, 9 Aug 2001, Morice, Francis wrote:
>
Hey gang, where can I get a good deal on Motul 600. I see Porterfield
is
> selling it for $11.95/ 1/2 liter. Anyone see it for less
anywhere else ?I
> will probably buy a case if that makes a difference in
the price.
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
>
Francis
> '96 R/T TT
> (SAVC-R BC, Spearco WI, Magnacore wires, NGK
plugs .32, test pipe, Autometer
> Boost Gauge, RPS TCC, HKS MegaFlow
intake, freeflow precats, Goodridge Steel
> Braided Brake Lines,
Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors, R4S pads, 1G DSM
> BOV, Ground
Control springs(500/300 F/R), Supra Fuel Pump)
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 11:55:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
Good points. Anyone know of a wind tunnel
we can borrow?
So the idea is to make a hood scoop that makes some
disturbing turbulence in
the air so that right behind it is a pressure drop
so air is exhausted.
Sounds easy.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Steven M.
Sent: Thursday,
August 09, 2001 2:57 AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood Scoop for TT
Even on a plane wing,
different areas will have different pressures. So
if we assume the
entire underside is the same pressure (which is not
true since we have the
underside/front open. But assume the inside is a
constant pressure, if
the outside pressure is higher (at dead front of
hood for example) it will go
in. if the outside pressure is lower (say
right after you have a
rise in the hood, you will get a vacuum that will
at least churn air.
The most efficient design would require windtunnel
testing. But both
naca ducting and venting are proven concepts.
In the end if you have a
hole in the hood, regardless of which direction
it flows, if the air is
churning heat is being exchanged, and the engine
bay is being cooled, just
not as efficiently as if you had an optimal
duct/vent setup.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 11:59:01
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Motul
Ask Jeff Mohler. Best deals around. If it is
not cheaper than Porterfield
then get some pads or rotors from him that are
cheaper and you make up for
your losses.
I am still using the case I
bought early in the year. Lasts a good while
and even after a two-day
hard driving event the fluid is not really dark
when being changed (meaning I
could have gone harder).
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Morice, Francis
Sent:
Thursday, August 09, 2001 8:49 AM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S:
Motul
Hey gang, where can I get a good deal on Motul 600. I see
Porterfield is
selling it for $11.95/ 1/2 liter. Anyone see it for less
anywhere else ?I
will probably buy a case if that makes a difference in the
price.
TIA,
Francis
'96 R/T TT
(SAVC-R BC, Spearco WI,
Magnacore wires, NGK plugs .32, test pipe, Autometer
Boost Gauge, RPS TCC,
HKS MegaFlow intake, freeflow precats, Goodridge Steel
Braided Brake Lines,
Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors, R4S pads, 1G DSM
BOV, Ground Control
springs(500/300 F/R), Supra Fuel Pump)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 12:08:29
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: "Brake-in" procedure
Granted they might not need
breaking in but all pads are supposed to be
initially run to get the resin
off the outside so you can get to the brake
pad itself I think. Maybe
you got to this the scary way. A friend of mine
bakes his on the BBQ to
get out all the gases initially.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jim Matthews
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 10:11 AM
After installing
new cryo rotors and R4S pads, the pads stunk and faded
profusely coming down
the first two mountain passes. After that they
stopped stinking and
faded much less.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 09:32:31
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
Hey
guys,
I thought I was there - happily on my way to my first DE at
the
track tomorrow... grrr. I took the car down off the
jackstands last night
after installing BRAND NEW Porterfield cryo rotors and
R4S pads and
completely bleeding the system on my VR-4. I did
EVERYTHING by the book -
literally - took my time, didn't force anything, and
used a torque wrench
for all the bolts/nuts as I put things back
together.
So now I have a slight vibration in the steering wheel when
braking
above 35mph or so. It seems to be reduced if I brake harder,
but I haven't
tried anything extreme. I get a pretty decent shaking
when braking from
60mph that feels just like what I've felt on other cars
with warped rotors.
I can't imagine that Porterfield sent me warped rotors,
so what else
could it be? The car had NO vibration at all before I took
the old brakes
off, so I'm pretty sure it's related to something I put on
there in the last
couple days. I don't think it's really possible to
mis-align the pads with
those two big pins going through them. I put
some brake lube on the back of
the pad and between the clip and shim. I
put a light coating of anti-seize
compound on the inside of the rotor hat,
the caliper bolts (the ones that
hold the caliper to the bracket), and the
wheel studs. I don't think
there's an excessive amount of anti-seize
under the rotor hat, and I don't
think there's anything under there that
would cause the rotor to be
off-center.
I had originally tightened
the lugs to 95ft-lbs and I took them off
and retightened them to 90
ft-lbs. Still the same thing. I tried driving
them around the
neighborhood doing some very light braking and that may have
made it a little
less noticeable, but it's still there above 35mph. Short
of taking the
@#%$@#% things off the car and checking the rotors, what else
can I do?
If the rotor's warped, will I be able to see that with a
metal
straight-edge? I suppose I could put my old rotors (stock,
non-cryo) back
on and see how things are, but I'm a little wary of going to
the track with
the stock rotors, even if I have R4S pads.
Help?
- --Erik
<a little frustrated, but not
thwarted>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 11:40:21
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
Did you
torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern, torquing every other
one rather
than the one right next to the previous?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Thursday, August 09, 2001 11:33
To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers List
(E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and
rotors
Hey guys,
I thought I was there - happily on my way to my first
DE at the
track tomorrow... grrr. I took the car down off the
jackstands last night
after installing BRAND NEW Porterfield cryo rotors and
R4S pads and
completely bleeding the system on my VR-4. I did
EVERYTHING by the book -
literally - took my time, didn't force anything, and
used a torque wrench
for all the bolts/nuts as I put things back
together.
So now I have a slight vibration in the steering wheel when
braking
above 35mph or so. It seems to be reduced if I brake harder,
but I haven't
tried anything extreme. I get a pretty decent shaking
when braking from
60mph that feels just like what I've felt on other cars
with warped rotors.
I can't imagine that Porterfield sent me warped rotors,
so what else
could it be? The car had NO vibration at all before I took
the old brakes
off, so I'm pretty sure it's related to something I put on
there in the last
couple days. I don't think it's really possible to
mis-align the pads with
those two big pins going through them. I put
some brake lube on the back of
the pad and between the clip and shim. I
put a light coating of anti-seize
compound on the inside of the rotor hat,
the caliper bolts (the ones that
hold the caliper to the bracket), and the
wheel studs. I don't think
there's an excessive amount of anti-seize
under the rotor hat, and I don't
think there's anything under there that
would cause the rotor to be
off-center.
I had originally tightened
the lugs to 95ft-lbs and I took them off
and retightened them to 90
ft-lbs. Still the same thing. I tried driving
them around the
neighborhood doing some very light braking and that may have
made it a little
less noticeable, but it's still there above 35mph. Short
of taking the
@#%$@#% things off the car and checking the rotors, what else
can I do?
If the rotor's warped, will I be able to see that with a
metal
straight-edge? I suppose I could put my old rotors (stock,
non-cryo) back
on and see how things are, but I'm a little wary of going to
the track with
the stock rotors, even if I have R4S pads.
Help?
- --Erik
<a little frustrated, but not
thwarted>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 12:40:30
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and
rotors
Heh. Welcome to MY world, Erik.
Have the car aligned
or have the rear rotors checked for warpage. It might
also be a wheel
bearing.
Just eliminate one thing at a time. We know it is not the
front rotors.
Try the rear, then at the brake shop (my Meineke shop does
this) ask them to
check the wheel bearings, suspension, etc.
Good
luck.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with slight vibration in steering wheel at
highway speeds
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Sent:
Thursday, August 09, 2001 12:33 PM
Hey guys,
I thought I was there -
happily on my way to my first DE at the
track tomorrow... grrr. I
took the car down off the jackstands last night
after installing BRAND NEW
Porterfield cryo rotors and R4S pads and
completely bleeding the system on my
VR-4. I did EVERYTHING by the book -
literally - took my time, didn't
force anything, and used a torque wrench
for all the bolts/nuts as I put
things back together.
So now I have a slight vibration in the steering wheel
when braking
above 35mph or so. It seems to be reduced if I brake
harder, but I haven't
tried anything extreme. I get a pretty decent
shaking when braking from
60mph that feels just like what I've felt on other
cars with warped rotors.
I can't imagine that Porterfield sent me warped
rotors, so what else
could it be? The car had NO vibration at all
before I took the old brakes
off, so I'm pretty sure it's related to
something I put on there in the last
couple days. I don't think it's
really possible to mis-align the pads with
those two big pins going through
them. I put some brake lube on the back of
the pad and between the clip
and shim. I put a light coating of anti-seize
compound on the inside of
the rotor hat, the caliper bolts (the ones that
hold the caliper to the
bracket), and the wheel studs. I don't think
there's an excessive
amount of anti-seize under the rotor hat, and I don't
think there's anything
under there that would cause the rotor to be
off-center.
I had originally
tightened the lugs to 95ft-lbs and I took them off
and retightened them to 90
ft-lbs. Still the same thing. I tried driving
them around the
neighborhood doing some very light braking and that may have
made it a little
less noticeable, but it's still there above 35mph. Short
of taking the
@#%$@#% things off the car and checking the rotors, what else
can I do?
If the rotor's warped, will I be able to see that with a
metal
straight-edge? I suppose I could put my old rotors (stock,
non-cryo) back
on and see how things are, but I'm a little wary of going to
the track with
the stock rotors, even if I have R4S
pads.
Help?
- --Erik
<a little frustrated, but not
thwarted>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 12:38:43
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
I was told
even when rotors are new out of the box they can still be a
little warped.
Also did you check your run-out?
Curtis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Sean Winker [mailto:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
Sent:
Thursday, August 09, 2001 10:40 AM
To: 'Gross, Erik'; Team3S List
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads
and
rotors
Did you torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern,
torquing every other
one rather than the one right next to the
previous?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 11:33
To:
Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Help! Vibration
after installing NEW pads and rotors
Hey guys,
I thought I was
there - happily on my way to my first DE at the
track tomorrow...
grrr. I took the car down off the jackstands last night
after
installing BRAND NEW Porterfield cryo rotors and R4S pads and
completely
bleeding the system on my VR-4. I did EVERYTHING by the book
-
literally - took my time, didn't force anything, and used a torque
wrench
for all the bolts/nuts as I put things back together.
So now I have
a slight vibration in the steering wheel when braking
above 35mph or
so. It seems to be reduced if I brake harder, but I haven't
tried
anything extreme. I get a pretty decent shaking when braking from
60mph
that feels just like what I've felt on other cars with warped rotors.
I can't
imagine that Porterfield sent me warped rotors, so what else
could it
be? The car had NO vibration at all before I took the old brakes
off,
so I'm pretty sure it's related to something I put on there in the
last
couple days. I don't think it's really possible to mis-align the
pads with
those two big pins going through them. I put some brake lube
on the back of
the pad and between the clip and shim. I put a light
coating of anti-seize
compound on the inside of the rotor hat, the caliper
bolts (the ones that
hold the caliper to the bracket), and the wheel
studs. I don't think
there's an excessive amount of anti-seize under
the rotor hat, and I don't
think there's anything under there that would
cause the rotor to be
off-center.
I had originally tightened the
lugs to 95ft-lbs and I took them off
and retightened them to 90 ft-lbs.
Still the same thing. I tried driving
them around the neighborhood
doing some very light braking and that may have
made it a little less
noticeable, but it's still there above 35mph. Short
of taking the
@#%$@#% things off the car and checking the rotors, what else
can I do?
If the rotor's warped, will I be able to see that with a
metal
straight-edge? I suppose I could put my old rotors (stock,
non-cryo) back
on and see how things are, but I'm a little wary of going to
the track with
the stock rotors, even if I have R4S pads.
Help?
- --Erik
<a little frustrated, but not
thwarted>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 09:47:02
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
I would
put the old rotors back on the car and check it
again.
Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 11:10:48
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
> Did you
torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern,
> torquing every
other
> one rather than the one right next to the previous?
Yeah,
like I'm drawing a 5-point star with a pencil. Even used a
torque
wrench at 95 and 90ft-lbs (tried both). Thanks for the
idea!
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 10:19:16
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and roto
rs
>> Darren wrote:
> Have the car aligned or have the rear
rotors checked for
> warpage.
But why would rear-rotor
warping cause the steering wheel to vibrate (shift
back and forth)?
Also, as of Monday night when I jacked the car up to
change the brakes, the
car had ZERO vibration when accelerating, cruising,
or braking (any speed up
to 120mph). The only reason the rear wheels were
off was to access the
bleeder screws (replaced with speed bleeders) - I
didn't touch the rear
brakes.
> It might also be a wheel bearing.
Do wheel
bearings spontaneously go bad? I don't see how, but what do I
know?
:)
> Just eliminate one thing at a time.
I agree, I'm
just trying to figure out how to get it done quickly so I can
play
tomorrow. argh.
> We know it is not the front
rotors.
I would think so, too, but everything seems to point there at
this point...
>> Another person wrote me privately:
> I
experienced the same thing when I received mine as did a
> fellow MN3S
member.
> After following the "recommended" break in routine my
steering
> would shake and pull to one side when breaking. I had to
pay $40
> to have the fronts (cryoed and crossdrilled with R4S pads)
and
> the problem has not occured again. My recommendation is to
>
have them turned. Porterfield was not too helpful when I
> brought
this matter up to them, operator error......
Wow... you'd think you
could count on the rotors being true when you buy
the BRAND NEW. I also
helped install the same stuff (cryo rotors & R4S
pads) on a friend's VR-4
a few weeks ago and his work fine!
So I guess I'll pull off the
front rotors (grrrrrrr....) and check them
visibly. I'll probably run
them down to a brake shop and see what they
think. I'm a little
hesitant to get them turned as that reduces their mass
(making them more
prone to warping) and I'd think (if they are warped) I
should be able to talk
to Porterfield about the rotors not being true out of
the box.
I guess
worst case I can use my old stock rotors tomorrow. Am I asking
for
trouble if I do that?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 12:50:32
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
I put the
Porterfield cryoed rotors on my 94 VR-4 along with a set of new
R4S pads,
(with very careful torquing, just like you did) took the car out
and warmed
up the brakes with several medium-hard stops from about 70. The
new pads were
smokin' nicely. I drove on the expressway for about 30 minutes
to cool things
down and then tried stopping again. MAJOR vibration! Very
warped new
rotors!
I called Porterfield. They said it's unusual, but the heat cycle
can warp
new cryoed rotors--but have them turned and they should be
stable after
that. I turned them--they had to take a pretty hefty cut to
flatten 'em
out--and they've been smooth as silk ever since through about 10
track days,
although I do turn them after a weekend at the track.
‹Jim
94 VR-4
> From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
> Date:
Thu, 9 Aug 2001 11:10:48 -0700
> To: "'Sean Winker'" <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>,
"Team3S List
> (E-mail)"<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and
rotors
>
>
>> Did you torque the lug nuts in a
criss-cross pattern,
>> torquing every other
>> one rather
than the one right next to the previous?
>
> Yeah, like I'm drawing
a 5-point star with a pencil. Even used a torque
> wrench at
95 and 90ft-lbs (tried both). Thanks for the idea!
>
>
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 15:09:34
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and
rotors
Sometimes you just gotta bed the pads in. If just driving around
(like I
suggested earlier) didn't help, do a series of hard stops from 80 to
20
until you can smell the pads cooking, then drive around for a bit to
cool
them off. Test for vibration again to see if it's gone. If it's
still
there, put the stock rotors back in to see if they cure the
problem.
>I guess worst case I can use my old stock rotors
tomorrow. Am I asking for
>trouble if I do that?
If you
change them and the stock rotors don't vibrate, use the stock rotors
and send
the others back to Porterfield (well, take one along for a spare
in case you
really do warp a rotor).
Yes, you can use the stock rotors. I did for my
first three events until I
finally warped one.
If this is your first
driving event, don't try to set lap records. Don't
even think about applying
the brakes at any speed over 100 mph. Coast down
to less than 100, and then
apply the brakes. Don't stomp on them. Your
instructor will show you how to
apply the brakes properly. Shoot, he may
not let you exceed 100 anyway for
the first few sessions.
Be certain to cool them down after hot lapping.
Drive around the paddock
for 5-10 minutes without using the brakes. You'll
probably see lots of
other cars aimlessly cruising around, cooling their
brakes off. Follow
them. Your instructor can explain the proper cool down
technique.
When you stop at your paddock area, DO NOT STOP WITH THE
BRAKES. Coast to a
stop, put the car in gear and shut off the engine, or
whatever. But do not
apply the brakes. Stay with the car for five minutes,
and then roll it
forward one half turn of the wheel. All this will prevent
those white hot
pads from melting to that red hot rotor and causing localized
warpage. I
have marks on my rear rotors from three years ago when I did that:
You can
still see the outline of pads emblazoned onto the rotor.
Do
not attempt to torque hot lug nuts. It's a good way to warp the rotor or
snap
off the studs. A lug nut might come loose once in a while, so you
gotta check
them, but wait until they have cooled off as much as possible
- -- like just
before you go out again. Then, just use a four-way to see if
it's
loose. Don't torque every lug again -- just any loose ones. It
is
possible to overdo the torque stuff, especially trackside. I torque all
my
lug nuts once a day -- before the first run, when everything is cold --
or
when I swap tires side to side or front to rear.
Be ever mindful
that:
1. you do not have race pads or cryoed rotors, and the harder you
use the
brakes, the less time you will have them. It is quite possible that
your
pads will wear down completely over the weekend. Check them
frequently,
especially on Sunday. The more they wear, the faster they wear.
Take a set
of spare pads.
2. Take care of them (coast down, don't
slam them on, cool them off
properly, and rotate the wheel after you park
without using the brakes) and
your brakes should last all weekend without
warping.
Have fun and don't try to set lap records. Do that NEXT time
out.
>
Rich/old poop>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 14:09:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help! Vibration after installing NEW pads and rotors
I had
this once.
It ended up taking numberous retorque passes on one of my
rotors to get it
perfectly mated with the hub.
After I wire brushed
the hub and hub-ring..it was fine.
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 15:53:03
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Running an auction
Whew! I just completed an auction on my Alamo
intercoolers*. We did it
off-list.
In case I ever have to do this
again (for example, I am thinking about
selling the 560 injectors that I
never put in) what do you folks think is
the best way? After all, I ain't
E-bay, and relaying all the $10 and $15
increments to the various players
gets tedious.
What I finally did was tell everyone to send me one final
bid, and I would
sell to the highest bidder as of 3:00 pm today. I did not
tell the
participants what the other final bids were, and at 3:00 I declared
a winner.
This was the only fair way I could think to do it, especially
since
everyone on this list is an electronic friend, and I didn't want to
shut
anybody out. I also did not want to create a bidding war that would
drive
the price sky high.
Should I have gone to e-bay?
Should I
have set a price and sold to the first person who met it?
One bidder said he
would top any other bid, no matter what. How do you
handle something like
that?
Do we have any list rules covering the sale of parts amongst
ourselves?
Do we need any?
I have bought and sold new and used parts
on this list for the past two
years with great success -- cuz everybody is so
HONEST here -- but this was
my first bidding war. It's spooky.
Rich/the auctioneer
*Hey, what is it about Alamo intercoolers?
You'd think they were gold
plated or something the way people bid on
them. I get the distinct feeling
that Alamo either does not sell the
Series 1 (1-5/8 in. ports, $1894) any
more or just doesn't want to sell them,
based on the answers to questions
they gave people who inquired about
fitments and stuff. It appears that
they want to sell only the 2 in. version
(Series 2), for $3845. Any truth
to this? Has anyone successfully purchased a
set of Series 1 intercoolers
from Alamo lately? Maybe the sales people
at Alamo are just incompetent
and don't know what they have. Or maybe I
should have held out for more
money, eh?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#572
***************************************
