Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Wednesday, August 8 2001   Volume 01 : Number 571




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 05:09:02 GMT
From: aa2345@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: auto shipping

Hey Geoff,

First of all, thanks for all your help with the oil and bleeding my brakes,
everything works like a charm.  Sorry to hear that you are having so much
trouble with this shipping stuff, but here is my 2 cents worth.  When I brought
my car from Michigan, I brought it with DAS (Dependable Auto Shippers) at
http://www.dasautoshippers.com/index.htm.  They guaranteed to deliver the car
in less than 14 days or so from the day I droped off the car, from Detroit
Michigan to Hayward California.  The truth is that I dropped the car on
Thursday at a pick up point, on Saturday morning the car was picked up by the
truck from that pick up point, and on Tuesday maybe Wed., I don't remember, the
car was in California.  Regardless, the whole thing was in under a week.  The
best part was that there was a number (1-800-726-2693), which you could always
call (somebody answered every time I called during business hours) and they
would tell you where your car was last seen, which gave me a good indication of
when I should expect the car.  Their price was the lowest of them all, only
$775, while many were around the $1000 and even more, and they even gave my car
a wash before they gave it back to me.  The bottom line is that I might have
been the exception to the rule in which everything worked out perfect, but I
think they are worth giving a call, and see if they can take care of your
situation with the timing constraints that you have.  Good luck, and let me
know how things go.

John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 23:00:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: auto shipping

*smile*

Thanks..a good reference with shippers is rare.

*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 05:35:11 -0700
From: "Cathi Grier" <contour@visto.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Auto Shipping

I'm sorry to hear about your experience!  This is what I was afraid of when I was considering having my car transported.

One thing you might try....

My husband and I bought our '91 Stealth R/T TT 3 weeks ago in Miami, Florida.  We live in Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

After calling numerous transport companies, and getting quotes from $700 - $1200 for an open air trailer, we turned to the airline on a suggestion from our seller.

We were going to be in Indianapolis for a wedding, and our seller suggested that we go to www.lowestfare.com to get a plane ticket to Fort Lauderdale (1/2 hour from Miami and he would pick up up at the airport!).

So I did.  And 2 one-way tickets from Indianapolis to Miami was $134.50 all together.  I couldn't beat that!  I even called to verify the price, and I called to verify that the tickets were for real!  It was a piece of cake! (We flew ATA)

So basically, if you live in a big city and want to fly to another big city, you could potentially fly cheap, pick up the car and drive it home.  (Ours was a 31 hour drive from Miami Beach to Cedar Rapids and that included all of our stops...including one 3 hour rest area stop because I was so tired I couldn't see straight).

I just thought I would present one more option to you!

Good luck!

Cathi Grier
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
Borla, Blitz DSBC, Eibach, K&N

- -----Original Message-----
From:    Geoff Mohler gemohler@www.speedtoys.com
Sent:    Tue, 7 Aug 2001 20:54:44 -0700 (PDT)
To:      supras@supras.com

On the reference of a few list members here, and some on other lists I
belong to I decided to call All American Auto Transport (aaat.com).

The salesguy got me a quote very quickly, and it was VERY low..$150-200
under anyone else.

Last monday I paid them the fee, and I was told by about Tuesday eve
Simpson trucking would call me to arrange pickup that week.

The whole week goes by, no calls.

Friday I call AAAT, they are -facinated- that I havent been called, and
give me Simpsons 800#.

Its a pager..I leave a #.

Simpson calls back after a few hours, and they apologise nobody called,
they had been held up in Denver for a few days.  The guy promises me that
he..or a "driver" (drivers are mythical creatures at this company..as you
never hear from anyone who is one) will call me about noon saturday to
arrange pickup THAT day.

I shift plans for the weekend a little.  No calls.  No trucks.  Many MANY
pages and voice mails left with Simpson at thier 'Corporate Office'.

I WAY shift plans (IE: Cancel) to stay home Sunday just in case I get a
call or visit.  I get neither.  But I leave more VMs and pages.  None are
returned.

AAAT are busy people on Mondays of course, but I get my salesguy.  Hes way
suprised the car isnt on the way.  He says he'll make calls.

At 4pm eastern time..my salesguy tells me (when I call him coz I waited an
hour after he said he would call ME) that Simpson will be calling 'any
second'.

No calls thru the remainder of the day/evening.

Tuesday, im hot, a "Please refund my money" Email is sent to AAAT.  Im
leaving pages every 10 minutes, VMs every hour.  No calls.  I talk to
AAAT, again..suprised I havent heard back.

Tuesday, 9am..Simpson calls.  The guy I talked to on Friday.  He
apologises..etc..etc GUARANTEES a "driver" will call me before
noon..promises a lot one will.

Tuesday 12:30p:  Time to start paging and leaving VMs on the normal
schedule...also call up AAAT.  Guess what, he's suprised I havent heard
from anyone.

Tuesday 3:15p, Simpson calls (same guy again) apologises..etc..etc..tells
me that a "driver" by the name of Jimmy should be calling "any second now,
I JUST got off the phone with him!".

Oh wow!  A driver with a name!!

4pm rolls around..back to the standard VM and pager schedule..no calls, no
words..nothing.

Get home 6pm..no messages, nothing, nada.

VMs, pages..etc.

I cannot personally recommend AAAT for vehicle transport as I dont belive
that they have a firm handle on thier trucking company (Simpson).  Even if
they DO care, and they ARE good (AAAT)..they have not gotten me
satisfaction within a reasonable period of time.  The trucking company has
consistently jerked me around, and at worst lied to me and led me on.  At
best..thier drivers suck, dont care, and I dont want my damn car on -any-
of thier trucks for fear it'll end up in Mexico or Toronto instead of
Phoenix.

The odd news, is that my shop in Phoenix also recommended them..and they
are also having the same issues trying to get a car from Colorado (I
think) to Phoenix.

Im having to go thru the personal expense of the 26hr round trip to drag
the car to Phoenix myself at this point..because ive been fu**ed with for
so long..Id never find another company to do this in time and for a
reasonable fee.

*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 08:21:16 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Brake Rotor Dust Shields

I just did this last weekend.  You take the wheel and rotor and caliper off.
Disconnect the ABS sensor mount from the back of the dust shield.  Careful,
you should use penetrating oil or WD40 on the bolt and hold the mount with
channel locks or vice grips to keep from bending stuff when you unbolt the
ABS sensor mount.  Disconnect the four bolts that hold the shield on the
hub.  Take the shield and cut away material except the mount and the two top
bolt holes.  You can use a hacksaw.  It' about three or four cuts.  Reattach
the remainder of the dust shield and voila.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 4:36 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Front Brake Rotor Dust Shields
>
>
> I know several people have removed the dust shields from their front
> rotors
> in favor of better brake cooling.  Among other things, I planned to do
> that
> today or tomorrow.  However after popping off one of them today, I noticed
> that there is something (wiring for the ABS speed sensor if I had to
> guess)
> bolted to the back of the shield. 
> If I remove the dust shield, where do I attach the rubber hose
> that's usually bolted to it?  What did you guys do?  I thought about
> zip-tying it to the strut something in the vicinity, but I'm concerned
> about
> rubbing or heat affecting the zip-tie.
>
> Thanks,
> --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 09:38:07 -0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: All Mitsubishi Cookout and Car Show

Hey everyone,

This is just a friendly reminder about the 3rd Annual, All Mitsubishi
Cookout and Car Show happening August 25th at Staring Lake Park in Eden
Prairie, MN (near Minneapolis).  This event will go from 11am to 4pm and its
open to all Mitsubishi built sports cars.  There will be prizes given out
for several categories and there will be a lot of burgers and brats served
up.  We had 42 cars attend last year, and this year promises to be even
bigger.

For all the details on this event, go to:
http://www.mn3s.org/all_mitsubishi2001.html

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:25:51 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Alamo or not?

We just tried to install a set of Alamo intercoolers on my car. I bought
them used last winter from a nice fella in Bethesda MD who was upgrading
his car at Altered Atmosphere.

We took one of the old intercoolers out and -- lo and behold -- they were
absolutely identical. Well, one bracket was off by a half inch, but could
easily be remedied by elongating the mounting hole.

That means one of two only things:

1. These are NOT Alamo intercoolers, and the guy sold me a set of stock
intercoolers instead. Before buying them in the first place, I verified
that he had purchased them from Alamo 18 months before. So, the evidence
indicates that he sold me Alamos. Besides, he's a big muckety muck with the
gummint. I can't imagine that he'd stiff me.

2. My car came with Alamos installed.  My oil cooler has been moved to in
front of the radiator, and I always wondered how that happened. My car was
a lease car before, so it's entirely conceivable that the previous owner
put Alamos in and let the car go with them installed. It also came with a
K&N.  I suspect a little drag racing had been going on. I had to replace
the Getrag almost immediately.

I have thoroughly examined both of the alleged Alamo intercoolers, but I
can't find a single mark, logo, or serial number on either intercooler. How
do you tell?  They are both black, have 12 cooling rows, and are 6 in. thick.

Does anyone know what an Alamo intercooler looks like or how to tell the
difference between an Alamo and stock?

I'll call Alamo sometime today, but I thought I'd ask the list first. I
figger youse guys might be able to steer me in the right direction and tell
me what to ask. 

Geez, if they are Alamos, I wonder what else the previous owner did to it?
I found a sending unit for a fuel pressure gauge. I wonder if my cats have
been gutted?

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:35:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alamo or not?

Rich,
Do you ICs look like whats on my web page below?

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-ic.htm

AMS has pics at their web site.

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/ams_ic_red.htm

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net> wrote:
snip
> Does anyone know what an Alamo intercooler looks like or how to
> tell the
snip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:36:09 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alamo or not?

Rich...sounds like you already had upgraded ICs...

Here is a link to the alamos...the stock ones are only about 3in thick and
are shown in the link.

Want to sell the alamos?

Mark
'91RT/TT (not lucky enough to have bought it with upgraded anything :-(.


>From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com, Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Team3S: Alamo or not?
>Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:25:51 -0500
>
>We just tried to install a set of Alamo intercoolers on my car. I bought
>them used last winter from a nice fella in Bethesda MD who was upgrading
>his car at Altered Atmosphere.
>
>We took one of the old intercoolers out and -- lo and behold -- they were
>absolutely identical. Well, one bracket was off by a half inch, but could
>easily be remedied by elongating the mounting hole.
>
>That means one of two only things:
>
>1. These are NOT Alamo intercoolers, and the guy sold me a set of stock
>intercoolers instead. Before buying them in the first place, I verified
>that he had purchased them from Alamo 18 months before. So, the evidence
>indicates that he sold me Alamos. Besides, he's a big muckety muck with the
>gummint. I can't imagine that he'd stiff me.
>
>2. My car came with Alamos installed.  My oil cooler has been moved to in
>front of the radiator, and I always wondered how that happened. My car was
>a lease car before, so it's entirely conceivable that the previous owner
>put Alamos in and let the car go with them installed. It also came with a
>K&N.  I suspect a little drag racing had been going on. I had to replace
>the Getrag almost immediately.
>
>I have thoroughly examined both of the alleged Alamo intercoolers, but I
>can't find a single mark, logo, or serial number on either intercooler. How
>do you tell?  They are both black, have 12 cooling rows, and are 6 in.
>thick.
>
>Does anyone know what an Alamo intercooler looks like or how to tell the
>difference between an Alamo and stock?
>
>I'll call Alamo sometime today, but I thought I'd ask the list first. I
>figger youse guys might be able to steer me in the right direction and tell
>me what to ask.
>
>Geez, if they are Alamos, I wonder what else the previous owner did to it?
>I found a sending unit for a fuel pressure gauge. I wonder if my cats have
>been gutted?
>
>Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:36:47 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alamo or not?

Oops...didn't include the link.

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/ams_ic_red.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 17:55:58 GMT
From: aa2345@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: smartire (a wireless tire pressure and temperature monitor)

Hello everyone,

I was just about to get this system that would allow me to monitor the tire
pressure and temperature via wireless transmissions, called smartire (info at
http://www.smartire.com/pdf/na/smartire_products.pdf), when I found out that
they have a second generation product that is not yet released in the US.  The
old system is available for about $220 american, but the new system, which has
a much smaller screen is not evailable and has no ETA either.  I did find out
that the second generation smartire product is selling in the UK, so I was
wondering how much of a hassle it would be for anyone in the UK to buy one of
these systems for me, and ship it over to the US.  Their phone number in the UK
is +44 (0) 1235 511 010.  I just want to see if anyone would be willing to do
me this favor, and if it too much trouble, I fully understand since everybody
must be very busy.  Thanks to all in advance.

John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 14:10:50 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Yes they are Alamos!

Thanks to everyone who contributed links and comments. You folks are great!

Yes, indeed, they are Alamo intercoolers! They match up perfectly to the
pix on the Alamo site (www.alamomotorsports.com). New ones are $1894. I
can't believe the previous owner just left them on the car when he turned
it in at the end of the lease, but there they are. No wonder my car runs so
good (13.5 @ 105 and 0-60 of 5.5 on a G Tech meter in a slight drizzle/damp
road). All this time I thought I had a stock motor. Wonder what else is in
there...I bet the boys in Topeka will be able to tell me this weekend.

I have $1000 invested in the intercoolers, so to Oskar, Mark, Kent and SJ:
yes, I am interested in selling them.

They look to be in nearly perfect shape. The previous owner said they had
4000 miles on them. They DO NOT have the oil cooler relocation kit, and I
don't know where you can get one. Maybe from Alamo. You must move the oil
cooler in front of the radiator to mount the Alamos.

Also, on my car, the lower left bracket on the passenger side IC was 1/2
in. off, but this can be fixed by elongating the hole or cutting a slot in
the mounting bracket. Perhaps the bracket is slightly different from model
to model, although these came off a 94 TT and my car is a 94 TT.

I cannot give you a warranty, because I know nothing about them, but I can
put you in touch with the former owner in Bethesda if you are serious about
buying them. Ask him all the questions you want.

If you want to make an offer, please send it to me off list at
merritt@cedar-rapids.net.
I think the intercoolers are still worth $1,000, but all offers will be
considered.

Rich/overintercooled.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 14:16:07 -0500
From: "Turbo Driven" <turbodrvn@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid

Hello all,

I'm curious if anyone has actually tried the Valvoline SynPower Synthetic
Brake Fluid??  It's DOT 3 and DOT 4 approved and has a 500+ degree boiling
point.  All my Turbo Toyota Supra friends love this SynPower product.

How's this Valvoline SynPower with our 3/S cars??

Feedback anyone??

Thanks in advance!

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" '92 3000GT VR4 & '87 Buick GN (both highly modified)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:23:10 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: smartire (a wireless tire pressure and temperature monitor)

Hey - My smtr stock has gone up 50% in the last two weeks. Now I know why.
This stock sells for about 2.75 right now. I am not making any
recommendations, but I have 2900 shares and I am not selling in the near
future..

Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 12:37:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid

I tried it..and I cooked it miserably in my RX7..which has better brakes
that the 3S.

Motul..get Motul.

Dunno where to get it?  Ask me..I gots it.

On Wed, 8 Aug 2001, Turbo Driven wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I'm curious if anyone has actually tried the Valvoline SynPower Synthetic
> Brake Fluid??  It's DOT 3 and DOT 4 approved and has a 500+ degree boiling
> point.  All my Turbo Toyota Supra friends love this SynPower product.
>
> How's this Valvoline SynPower with our 3/S cars??
>
> Feedback anyone??
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" '92 3000GT VR4 & '87 Buick GN (both highly modified)
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 14:00:15 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid

> I'm curious if anyone has actually tried the Valvoline
> SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid?? 

Funny you should ask that...

I just put that in my VR-4 last night.  I chose that fluid because I needed
something quick (unplanned DE at an airfield this Friday) and I noticed that
based on the specs, it looks decent.  We'll see.  I should be hitting 100+
on the straights (5/8mi) and having to slow it down to 30-40 in the turns,
so I'll have a chance to cook it pretty good :-)

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:10:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Andie W. Lin" <andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #569

> Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 16:34:05 -0700
> From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Carbotech Engineering and Stealth/3000GT Pricing
>
> Andie:  are these pads for street use, track use, both, or what?
>
> Andy

The Panther Plus and Panther compounds are designed as track pads which
can be driven on the street with excellent results as well.  On the
Stealth/3000GT, due to the weight of the car, we would use Panther Plus
in the front and the rear.  The typical setup if P+ in the front and P
in the rear, except for mid-engine and rear-engine vehicles. 

The Super Street-F (SS-F) is a high-performance street pad which can be
used for autocross on cars weighing under 3500lb, and for track use on
cars weighing under 3250lb.  Now, the SS-F would be excellent on the
Stealth/3000GT _IF_ you only drive on the street.  It will brake at
maximum torque from ambient (~75degF), and has a coefficient of
friction of 0.45, while an OEM pad will have a CoF of around 0.30-0.35.

The 913 compound (formally Kelated Metallic 913 Green) is an excellent
autocross pad, as it has a smooth initial bite and very high CoF
(0.48-0.50).  It is not, however, well suited for street use because it
is dusty and noisy when cold and/or under low line/pedal pressure.

I hope I have answered you questions adequately.  If not, let me know
which parts require clarification, and I will take another swing at it!

Regards,


=====
andie w lin | e-mail: andiewlin@yahoo.com
vp of marketing & new product development
- -c a r b o t e c h e n g i n e e r i n g-
1100 NW 53rd St | Ft Lauderdale, FL 33309
work: 954.493.9669 | mobile: 734.678.8292

"Bring your speed into  F O C U S . . . "

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:24:56 -0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lash adjuster redux

Thanks to all who responded.  I used a longer ratchet and was able to turn
the cams from the hex on the timing sprockets.  All lash adjusters were in
good condition; so I primed them with oil and replaced them in the head.
Unfortunately, I did not get a good enough seal on the rocker cover; there
is a small amount of smoke coming from near the exhaust manifold.  So, I
will tear down the front bank and go again :)  Next step is to try BK44 as
mentioned by Eric Gross in an archived message.  Eric, your last report said
as of summer 00 you had no ticking after an application of Mopar Combustion
Chamber Cleaner.  How is everything in 01?

By the way, I purchased a Galant GTZ for the wife and was going to trade the
91 VR4, but the salesman claimed my "valve train knock" would cost them 2-3K
to correct.  He nitpicked the car which is in obviously very good shape and
low balled me at $7K.

Jim
91 3000GT VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 15:39:07 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lash adjuster redux

Jim,
Before you tear everything apart, make sure the smoke is not just from oil
that dripped while doing the maintenance. I always get some smoke after i
start an engine that has been torn down.....

At 03:24 PM 8/8/01 , Watkins, Jim wrote:
>Unfortunately, I did not get a good enough seal on the rocker cover; there
>is a small amount of smoke coming from near the exhaust manifold.  So, I
>will tear down the front bank and go again :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:46:13 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lash adjuster redux

> Next step is to try BK44 as mentioned by Eric Gross
> in an archived message.  Eric, your  last report said
> as of summer 00 you had no ticking after an application of
> Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner.  How is everything in 01?

Well, actually I sold the car about 3 weeks ago (because I bought a VR-4 <g>
).  Up to that point I noticed no ticking whatsoever when the engine was
warm.  *Very* infrequently, I heard some ticking when I first started the
car after it had been sitting for a few days.  As soon as it warmed up a bit
(or I slowly revved it to about 3000RPM), the ticking disappeared.  That
scenario is supposed to be "normal."

BTW, that wasn't just "an application" of MCCC I used - it was a several-day
ordeal :}  I'm relatively convinced that most of my ticking wasn't actually
lash adjuster noise and that it was probably valve-piston interference.  I
think this for multiple reasons:  initial compression readings of 240-250psi
in all cylinders; noticeably improved engine braking when compared to stock;
pinging under heavy load conditions; visible black crud on piston tops
(visible through plug holes); "chunks" of carbon flakes the size of a pencil
eraser (but thin) that came out of my cylinders after I soaked them in MCCC
overnight; and the fact that 2 overnight soakings in MCCC were required
before I could see shiny piston tops through the plug holes. 

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:38:36 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: "Brake-in" procedure

Ok, so I should be shot for the subject, but I couldn't resist...

I've read Porterfield's website section on bedding new pads and a few posts
from the archives and here's what I've come up with...  comments and
suggestions much appreciated.

Just installed NEW cryo rotors and R4-S pads on my '95 VR-4.  Also,
completely bled the brake lines with fresh fluid (Valvoline Synthetic for
now, better stuff next time).

* Drive the car around at low speeds and make
sure I have no funny noises or vibrations.
* Warm the brakes up by driving around the neighborhood
and doing some light braking, progressing to some
medium braking from 35-40mph.
* Find my way to the interstate and do several (2-3?)
high-speed (somewhere between 60 and 100mph)
panic stops - nail the brakes for all they're worth.
* Drive home without using the brakes or emergency brake.
* Get the car in the garage, do not set the e-brake,
and quickly jump out and block the rear wheels so the
car doesn't roll out of my garage (that should be
entertaining to watch).
* After 5-10 minutes roll the car forward 1/2 a wheel
revolution to get the pads over the other side of
the rotor.
* Allow brakes to cool slowly and thoroughly.
* High-speed fun at 1.5mile flat oval track on Friday.

Thanks!
- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS, ECS, MSunrf)  33,000 mi
   FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, PRofecA, HKS SSBOV, HKS Turbo Timer
   http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 20:18:37 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: "Brake-in" procedure

I hate to break it like this, but R4S pads don't require a break in.
R4 pads do, but not street pads.

Rich

At 11:38 AM 8/8/01 -0700, Gross, Erik wrote:
>Ok, so I should be shot for the subject, but I couldn't resist...
>
>I've read Porterfield's website section on bedding new pads and a few posts
>from the archives and here's what I've come up with...  comments and
>suggestions much appreciated.
>
>Just installed NEW cryo rotors and R4-S pads on my '95 VR-4.  Also,
>completely bled the brake lines with fresh fluid (Valvoline Synthetic for
>now, better stuff next time).
>
>* Drive the car around at low speeds and make
> sure I have no funny noises or vibrations.
>* Warm the brakes up by driving around the neighborhood
> and doing some light braking, progressing to some
> medium braking from 35-40mph.
>* Find my way to the interstate and do several (2-3?)
> high-speed (somewhere between 60 and 100mph)
> panic stops - nail the brakes for all they're worth.
>* Drive home without using the brakes or emergency brake.
>* Get the car in the garage, do not set the e-brake,
> and quickly jump out and block the rear wheels so the
> car doesn't roll out of my garage (that should be
> entertaining to watch).
>* After 5-10 minutes roll the car forward 1/2 a wheel
> revolution to get the pads over the other side of
> the rotor.
>* Allow brakes to cool slowly and thoroughly.
>* High-speed fun at 1.5mile flat oval track on Friday.
>
>Thanks!
>--Erik
>
>------                                             ----------
>Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
>'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS, ECS, MSunrf)  33,000 mi
>   FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, PRofecA, HKS SSBOV, HKS Turbo Timer
>   http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:28:37 -0800
From: "Charles J. Williams" <cwilliam@gci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Suspension Questions

I always like to be different from everybody else. I want to upgrade the
handling and looks of my car but I don't want to sacrifice much on the ride.
I also want to get the car as quiet as possible.

I've been trying to read everything I can on the 3SI board about upgrading
the suspension. What I think I want to do is add/upgrade front and rear sway
bars and front and rear strut tower bars. Would this improve my cars
handling without sacrificing the ride?

I'd also like to lower the car about 1.5" but I don't want stiffer springs.
Is there anything wrong with taking the factory springs and cutting about
1.5" off of them?

Thanks in advance for any help.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:29:42 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: "Brake-in" procedure

** WARNING **

New rotors need a break-in period.

New pads (some of them) need a break-in period.

These should not always be done at the same time.

Cryo-treated rotors need extra care (see below).


Recently I installed a set of the enormous AP 6-piston brakes from GT Pro on
a friend's car.  Thanks GT Pro for the "break-in" sheets.

These "break-in" sheets for the rotors said to do easy stops for the first
50 miles.  Then some moderate stopping for the next 100 miles.  The next 100
miles are some heavy braking (i.e. panic stops).  At about the second or
third interval it said to look at the rotor and a blue tint around the rotor
(I think) means that it is getting to the correct temperature.  It is
imperative that the rotor get heated all the way through and not just on the
surface (just the surface gets hot when you do panic stops only and don't
let them warm up slowly).  Then they are ready for the track.

For pads it is similar but more of a couple really hard stops to get things
near red hot and drive home without using them.  Sometimes barbequing them
also works.

Now you see why you can't bed in pads and rotors at the same time.  Not sure
how to get around this though so good luck.


For cryo-treated rotors I sent a post to the list (posted July 31 with
subject of "Porterfield cryo-treated rotors") with Porterfield's own notes
on how to bed in new rotors.  Not only do you need to take them through a
good heat cycle first but take care of them at the track.

- --Flash!
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:50:28 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: trans question

My 1st-2nd synchro got shredded in a power shift on an uphill in the rain.
I knew the wheels were spinning on the wet pavement so at 5,000 rpm I
shifted to second (nearly as fast as I could) and I felt and heard what I
did not want to.  From that day on there was a grind going into second.
Sure enough, started to do bad stuff to the synchro which led to a rebuilt
tranny in the car.

That was on a stock 1995 VR-4 with no mods so it is not just on high boost
cars.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of David Littau
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 1:47 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: trans question


How much punishment can the stock TT transmissions take?  I know a lot of
people are really cranking up the boost, but I don't hear from people who
are shredding gears.  Are the synchros truly the only weak point?  Or is
it a "before turning up the boost, get a backup transmission" kind of
thing?

david

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:55:50 EDT
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: RE:  Tunning the Blitz DSBC

Roger Wrote:
>This where the initial settings we tried three years ago and at the end it
>is annoying to always hit the limiter as well as 0.13 kg/cm2 is too much
>overboost.

I think you meant to say "1.03 kg/cm2" is too much boost.  This is really up
to debate, but I agree that 1.03 kg/cm2 sustained boost is too much, "spike"
boosts to this level are, in my opinion, ok - in stock form my '97 VR-4 would
spike to 1.05.  At these levels of boost, the condition of the engine and the
quality of the gas can easily cause detonation on one 6G72 motor and not the
other. Mitsu engines seem very detonation prone when you compare them to
other counterparts like the Supra or 300Z TT's.  Most of the Supra people
I've talked to run 1.1 - 1.2 kg/cm2, and 300Z people run about the same. 
Does anybody have experience with one of these cars that can verify this? 
Even my Miata with its stock 9.5:1 compression will safely take 0.95 kg/cm2 -
it does have an upgraded fuel system though.

Speaking of detonation, does anybody have a recommendation for an OBD-II scan
tool?  Does anybody out there have experience using one on a VR-4?

Thanks
Cyrus

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #571
***************************************