Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, August 8
2001 Volume 01 : Number
571
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Aug 2001 05:09:02 GMT
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: auto
shipping
Hey Geoff,
First of all, thanks for all your help with
the oil and bleeding my brakes,
everything works like a charm. Sorry
to hear that you are having so much
trouble with this shipping stuff, but
here is my 2 cents worth. When I brought
my car from Michigan, I
brought it with DAS (Dependable Auto Shippers) at
http://www.dasautoshippers.com/index.htm.
They guaranteed to deliver the car
in less than 14 days or so from the day I
droped off the car, from Detroit
Michigan to Hayward California. The
truth is that I dropped the car on
Thursday at a pick up point, on Saturday
morning the car was picked up by the
truck from that pick up point, and on
Tuesday maybe Wed., I don't remember, the
car was in California.
Regardless, the whole thing was in under a week. The
best part was
that there was a number (1-800-726-2693), which you could always
call
(somebody answered every time I called during business hours) and they
would
tell you where your car was last seen, which gave me a good indication of
when I should expect the car. Their price was the lowest of them all,
only
$775, while many were around the $1000 and even more, and they even
gave my car
a wash before they gave it back to me. The bottom line is
that I might have
been the exception to the rule in which everything worked
out perfect, but I
think they are worth giving a call, and see if they can
take care of your
situation with the timing constraints that you have.
Good luck, and let me
know how things go.
John Raicu
94
Yellow
TT.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 23:00:53
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: auto shipping
*smile*
Thanks..a good reference with
shippers is rare.
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 05:35:11
-0700
From: "Cathi Grier" <
contour@visto.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Auto Shipping
I'm sorry to hear about your experience! This is
what I was afraid of when I was considering having my car transported.
One thing you might try....
My husband and I bought our '91
Stealth R/T TT 3 weeks ago in Miami, Florida. We live in Cedar Rapids,
Iowa.
After calling numerous transport companies, and getting quotes from
$700 - $1200 for an open air trailer, we turned to the airline on a suggestion
from our seller.
We were going to be in Indianapolis for a wedding, and
our seller suggested that we go to
www.lowestfare.com to get a plane ticket to
Fort Lauderdale (1/2 hour from Miami and he would pick up up at the
airport!).
So I did. And 2 one-way tickets from Indianapolis to
Miami was $134.50 all together. I couldn't beat that! I even called
to verify the price, and I called to verify that the tickets were for
real! It was a piece of cake! (We flew ATA)
So basically, if you
live in a big city and want to fly to another big city, you could potentially
fly cheap, pick up the car and drive it home. (Ours was a 31 hour drive
from Miami Beach to Cedar Rapids and that included all of our stops...including
one 3 hour rest area stop because I was so tired I couldn't see
straight).
I just thought I would present one more option to
you!
Good luck!
Cathi Grier
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin
Turbo
Borla, Blitz DSBC, Eibach, K&N
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
gemohler@www.speedtoys.comSent:
Tue, 7 Aug 2001 20:54:44 -0700 (PDT)
To:
supras@supras.comOn the reference of
a few list members here, and some on other lists I
belong to I decided to
call All American Auto Transport (aaat.com).
The salesguy got me a quote
very quickly, and it was VERY low..$150-200
under anyone else.
Last
monday I paid them the fee, and I was told by about Tuesday eve
Simpson
trucking would call me to arrange pickup that week.
The whole week goes
by, no calls.
Friday I call AAAT, they are -facinated- that I havent been
called, and
give me Simpsons 800#.
Its a pager..I leave a
#.
Simpson calls back after a few hours, and they apologise nobody
called,
they had been held up in Denver for a few days. The guy
promises me that
he..or a "driver" (drivers are mythical creatures at this
company..as you
never hear from anyone who is one) will call me about noon
saturday to
arrange pickup THAT day.
I shift plans for the weekend a
little. No calls. No trucks. Many MANY
pages and voice
mails left with Simpson at thier 'Corporate Office'.
I WAY shift plans
(IE: Cancel) to stay home Sunday just in case I get a
call or visit. I
get neither. But I leave more VMs and pages. None
are
returned.
AAAT are busy people on Mondays of course, but I get my
salesguy. Hes way
suprised the car isnt on the way. He says he'll
make calls.
At 4pm eastern time..my salesguy tells me (when I call him
coz I waited an
hour after he said he would call ME) that Simpson will be
calling 'any
second'.
No calls thru the remainder of the
day/evening.
Tuesday, im hot, a "Please refund my money" Email is sent to
AAAT. Im
leaving pages every 10 minutes, VMs every hour. No
calls. I talk to
AAAT, again..suprised I havent heard
back.
Tuesday, 9am..Simpson calls. The guy I talked to on
Friday. He
apologises..etc..etc GUARANTEES a "driver" will call me
before
noon..promises a lot one will.
Tuesday 12:30p: Time to
start paging and leaving VMs on the normal
schedule...also call up
AAAT. Guess what, he's suprised I havent heard
from
anyone.
Tuesday 3:15p, Simpson calls (same guy again)
apologises..etc..etc..tells
me that a "driver" by the name of Jimmy should be
calling "any second now,
I JUST got off the phone with him!".
Oh
wow! A driver with a name!!
4pm rolls around..back to the standard
VM and pager schedule..no calls, no
words..nothing.
Get home 6pm..no
messages, nothing, nada.
VMs, pages..etc.
I cannot personally
recommend AAAT for vehicle transport as I dont belive
that they have a firm
handle on thier trucking company (Simpson). Even if
they DO care, and
they ARE good (AAAT)..they have not gotten me
satisfaction within a
reasonable period of time. The trucking company has
consistently jerked
me around, and at worst lied to me and led me on. At
best..thier
drivers suck, dont care, and I dont want my damn car on -any-
of thier trucks
for fear it'll end up in Mexico or Toronto instead of
Phoenix.
The odd
news, is that my shop in Phoenix also recommended them..and they
are also
having the same issues trying to get a car from Colorado (I
think) to
Phoenix.
Im having to go thru the personal expense of the 26hr round trip
to drag
the car to Phoenix myself at this point..because ive been fu**ed with
for
so long..Id never find another company to do this in time and for
a
reasonable fee.
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 08:21:16
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Brake Rotor Dust Shields
I just did this last
weekend. You take the wheel and rotor and caliper off.
Disconnect the
ABS sensor mount from the back of the dust shield. Careful,
you should
use penetrating oil or WD40 on the bolt and hold the mount with
channel locks
or vice grips to keep from bending stuff when you unbolt the
ABS sensor
mount. Disconnect the four bolts that hold the shield on the
hub.
Take the shield and cut away material except the mount and the two top
bolt
holes. You can use a hacksaw. It' about three or four cuts.
Reattach
the remainder of the dust shield and voila.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 4:36
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers List (E-mail)
> Subject:
Team3S: Front Brake Rotor Dust Shields
>
>
> I know several
people have removed the dust shields from their front
> rotors
> in
favor of better brake cooling. Among other things, I planned to do
>
that
> today or tomorrow. However after popping off one of them
today, I noticed
> that there is something (wiring for the ABS speed
sensor if I had to
> guess)
> bolted to the back of the
shield.
> If I remove the dust shield, where do I attach the rubber
hose
> that's usually bolted to it? What did you guys do? I
thought about
> zip-tying it to the strut something in the vicinity, but
I'm concerned
> about
> rubbing or heat affecting the
zip-tie.
>
> Thanks,
> --Erik
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 09:38:07
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: All Mitsubishi Cookout and Car Show
Hey everyone,
This is
just a friendly reminder about the 3rd Annual, All Mitsubishi
Cookout and
Car Show happening August 25th at Staring Lake Park in Eden
Prairie, MN
(near Minneapolis). This event will go from 11am to 4pm and its
open
to all Mitsubishi built sports cars. There will be prizes given out
for several categories and there will be a lot of burgers and brats served
up. We had 42 cars attend last year, and this year promises to be even
bigger.
For all the details on this event, go to:
http://www.mn3s.org/all_mitsubishi2001.htmllater,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:25:51
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Alamo or not?
We just tried to install a set of Alamo
intercoolers on my car. I bought
them used last winter from a nice fella in
Bethesda MD who was upgrading
his car at Altered Atmosphere.
We took
one of the old intercoolers out and -- lo and behold -- they were
absolutely
identical. Well, one bracket was off by a half inch, but could
easily be
remedied by elongating the mounting hole.
That means one of two only
things:
1. These are NOT Alamo intercoolers, and the guy sold me a set of
stock
intercoolers instead. Before buying them in the first place, I
verified
that he had purchased them from Alamo 18 months before. So, the
evidence
indicates that he sold me Alamos. Besides, he's a big muckety muck
with the
gummint. I can't imagine that he'd stiff me.
2. My car came
with Alamos installed. My oil cooler has been moved to in
front of the
radiator, and I always wondered how that happened. My car was
a lease car
before, so it's entirely conceivable that the previous owner
put Alamos in
and let the car go with them installed. It also came with a
K&N. I
suspect a little drag racing had been going on. I had to replace
the Getrag
almost immediately.
I have thoroughly examined both of the alleged Alamo
intercoolers, but I
can't find a single mark, logo, or serial number on
either intercooler. How
do you tell? They are both black, have 12
cooling rows, and are 6 in. thick.
Does anyone know what an Alamo
intercooler looks like or how to tell the
difference between an Alamo and
stock?
I'll call Alamo sometime today, but I thought I'd ask the list
first. I
figger youse guys might be able to steer me in the right direction
and tell
me what to ask.
Geez, if they are Alamos, I wonder
what else the previous owner did to it?
I found a sending unit for a fuel
pressure gauge. I wonder if my cats have
been gutted?
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:35:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alamo or not?
Rich,
Do you ICs look like whats on my web
page below?
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-ic.htmAMS
has pics at their web site.
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/ams_ic_red.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
snip
> Does anyone know what an Alamo intercooler looks like or
how to
> tell the
snip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:36:09
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alamo or not?
Rich...sounds like you already had upgraded
ICs...
Here is a link to the alamos...the stock ones are only about 3in
thick and
are shown in the link.
Want to sell the
alamos?
Mark
'91RT/TT (not lucky enough to have bought it with
upgraded anything :-(.
>From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Alamo or not?
>Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:25:51
-0500
>
>We just tried to install a set of Alamo intercoolers on my
car. I bought
>them used last winter from a nice fella in Bethesda MD who
was upgrading
>his car at Altered Atmosphere.
>
>We took one
of the old intercoolers out and -- lo and behold -- they were
>absolutely
identical. Well, one bracket was off by a half inch, but could
>easily be
remedied by elongating the mounting hole.
>
>That means one of two
only things:
>
>1. These are NOT Alamo intercoolers, and the guy
sold me a set of stock
>intercoolers instead. Before buying them in the
first place, I verified
>that he had purchased them from Alamo 18 months
before. So, the evidence
>indicates that he sold me Alamos. Besides, he's
a big muckety muck with the
>gummint. I can't imagine that he'd stiff
me.
>
>2. My car came with Alamos installed. My oil cooler has
been moved to in
>front of the radiator, and I always wondered how that
happened. My car was
>a lease car before, so it's entirely conceivable
that the previous owner
>put Alamos in and let the car go with them
installed. It also came with a
>K&N. I suspect a little drag
racing had been going on. I had to replace
>the Getrag almost
immediately.
>
>I have thoroughly examined both of the alleged Alamo
intercoolers, but I
>can't find a single mark, logo, or serial number on
either intercooler. How
>do you tell? They are both black, have 12
cooling rows, and are 6 in.
>thick.
>
>Does anyone know what
an Alamo intercooler looks like or how to tell the
>difference between an
Alamo and stock?
>
>I'll call Alamo sometime today, but I thought
I'd ask the list first. I
>figger youse guys might be able to steer me in
the right direction and tell
>me what to ask.
>
>Geez, if they
are Alamos, I wonder what else the previous owner did to it?
>I found a
sending unit for a fuel pressure gauge. I wonder if my cats have
>been
gutted?
>
>Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:36:47
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alamo or not?
Oops...didn't include the link.
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/ams_ic_red.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 17:55:58
GMT
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject:
Team3S: smartire (a wireless tire pressure and temperature monitor)
Hello
everyone,
I was just about to get this system that would allow me to
monitor the tire
pressure and temperature via wireless transmissions, called
smartire (info at
http://www.smartire.com/pdf/na/smartire_products.pdf),
when I found out that
they have a second generation product that is not yet
released in the US. The
old system is available for about $220
american, but the new system, which has
a much smaller screen is not
evailable and has no ETA either. I did find out
that the second
generation smartire product is selling in the UK, so I was
wondering how
much of a hassle it would be for anyone in the UK to buy one of
these
systems for me, and ship it over to the US. Their phone number in the UK
is +44 (0) 1235 511 010. I just want to see if anyone would be willing
to do
me this favor, and if it too much trouble, I fully understand since
everybody
must be very busy. Thanks to all in advance.
John
Raicu
94 Yellow
TT.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 14:10:50
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Yes they are Alamos!
Thanks to everyone who contributed links and
comments. You folks are great!
Yes, indeed, they are Alamo intercoolers!
They match up perfectly to the
pix on the Alamo site (
www.alamomotorsports.com). New ones
are $1894. I
can't believe the previous owner just left them on the car when
he turned
it in at the end of the lease, but there they are. No wonder my car
runs so
good (13.5 @ 105 and 0-60 of 5.5 on a G Tech meter in a slight
drizzle/damp
road). All this time I thought I had a stock motor. Wonder what
else is in
there...I bet the boys in Topeka will be able to tell me this
weekend.
I have $1000 invested in the intercoolers, so to Oskar, Mark,
Kent and SJ:
yes, I am interested in selling them.
They look to be in
nearly perfect shape. The previous owner said they had
4000 miles on them.
They DO NOT have the oil cooler relocation kit, and I
don't know where you
can get one. Maybe from Alamo. You must move the oil
cooler in front of the
radiator to mount the Alamos.
Also, on my car, the lower left bracket on
the passenger side IC was 1/2
in. off, but this can be fixed by elongating
the hole or cutting a slot in
the mounting bracket. Perhaps the bracket is
slightly different from model
to model, although these came off a 94 TT and
my car is a 94 TT.
I cannot give you a warranty, because I know nothing
about them, but I can
put you in touch with the former owner in Bethesda if
you are serious about
buying them. Ask him all the questions you
want.
If you want to make an offer, please send it to me off list
at
merritt@cedar-rapids.net.
I think
the intercoolers are still worth $1,000, but all offers will
be
considered.
Rich/overintercooled.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 14:16:07
-0500
From: "Turbo Driven" <
turbodrvn@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid
Hello all,
I'm
curious if anyone has actually tried the Valvoline SynPower Synthetic
Brake
Fluid?? It's DOT 3 and DOT 4 approved and has a 500+ degree boiling
point. All my Turbo Toyota Supra friends love this SynPower
product.
How's this Valvoline SynPower with our 3/S
cars??
Feedback anyone??
Thanks in advance!
Ahmed
"AL-Crazy" '92 3000GT VR4 & '87 Buick GN (both highly
modified)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:23:10
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: smartire (a wireless tire pressure and temperature monitor)
Hey -
My smtr stock has gone up 50% in the last two weeks. Now I know why.
This
stock sells for about 2.75 right now. I am not making any
recommendations,
but I have 2900 shares and I am not selling in the
near
future..
Andy
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 12:37:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid
I tried it..and I
cooked it miserably in my RX7..which has better brakes
that the
3S.
Motul..get Motul.
Dunno where to get it? Ask me..I gots
it.
On Wed, 8 Aug 2001, Turbo Driven wrote:
> Hello
all,
>
> I'm curious if anyone has actually tried the Valvoline
SynPower Synthetic
> Brake Fluid?? It's DOT 3 and DOT 4 approved
and has a 500+ degree boiling
> point. All my Turbo Toyota Supra
friends love this SynPower product.
>
> How's this Valvoline
SynPower with our 3/S cars??
>
> Feedback anyone??
>
>
Thanks in advance!
>
> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" '92 3000GT VR4 & '87
Buick GN (both highly modified)
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 14:00:15
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid
> I'm curious if
anyone has actually tried the Valvoline
> SynPower Synthetic Brake
Fluid??
Funny you should ask that...
I just put that in my
VR-4 last night. I chose that fluid because I needed
something quick
(unplanned DE at an airfield this Friday) and I noticed that
based on the
specs, it looks decent. We'll see. I should be hitting 100+
on
the straights (5/8mi) and having to slow it down to 30-40 in the turns,
so
I'll have a chance to cook it pretty good :-)
- --Erik
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:10:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #569
> Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 16:34:05
-0700
> From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Carbotech Engineering and Stealth/3000GT Pricing
>
>
Andie: are these pads for street use, track use, both, or what?
>
> Andy
The Panther Plus and Panther compounds are designed as
track pads which
can be driven on the street with excellent results as
well. On the
Stealth/3000GT, due to the weight of the car, we would use
Panther Plus
in the front and the rear. The typical setup if P+ in the
front and P
in the rear, except for mid-engine and rear-engine
vehicles.
The Super Street-F (SS-F) is a high-performance street
pad which can be
used for autocross on cars weighing under 3500lb, and for
track use on
cars weighing under 3250lb. Now, the SS-F would be
excellent on the
Stealth/3000GT _IF_ you only drive on the street. It
will brake at
maximum torque from ambient (~75degF), and has a coefficient
of
friction of 0.45, while an OEM pad will have a CoF of around
0.30-0.35.
The 913 compound (formally Kelated Metallic 913 Green) is an
excellent
autocross pad, as it has a smooth initial bite and very high
CoF
(0.48-0.50). It is not, however, well suited for street use because
it
is dusty and noisy when cold and/or under low line/pedal
pressure.
I hope I have answered you questions adequately. If not,
let me know
which parts require clarification, and I will take another swing
at it!
Regards,
=====
andie w lin | e-mail:
andiewlin@yahoo.comvp of marketing
& new product development
- -c a r b o t e c h e n g i n e e r i n
g-
1100 NW 53rd St | Ft Lauderdale, FL 33309
work: 954.493.9669 | mobile:
734.678.8292
"Bring your speed into F O C U S . . .
"
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:24:56
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lash adjuster redux
Thanks to all who responded. I used
a longer ratchet and was able to turn
the cams from the hex on the timing
sprockets. All lash adjusters were in
good condition; so I primed them
with oil and replaced them in the head.
Unfortunately, I did not get a good
enough seal on the rocker cover; there
is a small amount of smoke coming from
near the exhaust manifold. So, I
will tear down the front bank and go
again :) Next step is to try BK44 as
mentioned by Eric Gross in an
archived message. Eric, your last report said
as of summer 00 you had
no ticking after an application of Mopar Combustion
Chamber Cleaner.
How is everything in 01?
By the way, I purchased a Galant GTZ for the
wife and was going to trade the
91 VR4, but the salesman claimed my "valve
train knock" would cost them 2-3K
to correct. He nitpicked the car
which is in obviously very good shape and
low balled me at
$7K.
Jim
91 3000GT VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 15:39:07
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lash adjuster redux
Jim,
Before you tear everything apart,
make sure the smoke is not just from oil
that dripped while doing the
maintenance. I always get some smoke after i
start an engine that has been
torn down.....
At 03:24 PM 8/8/01 , Watkins, Jim
wrote:
>Unfortunately, I did not get a good enough seal on the rocker
cover; there
>is a small amount of smoke coming from near the exhaust
manifold. So, I
>will tear down the front bank and go again
:)
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:46:13
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lash adjuster redux
> Next step is to try BK44 as mentioned by
Eric Gross
> in an archived message. Eric, your last report
said
> as of summer 00 you had no ticking after an application of
>
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. How is everything in 01?
Well,
actually I sold the car about 3 weeks ago (because I bought a VR-4
<g>
). Up to that point I noticed no ticking whatsoever when the
engine was
warm. *Very* infrequently, I heard some ticking when I first
started the
car after it had been sitting for a few days. As soon as it
warmed up a bit
(or I slowly revved it to about 3000RPM), the ticking
disappeared. That
scenario is supposed to be "normal."
BTW, that
wasn't just "an application" of MCCC I used - it was a several-day
ordeal
:} I'm relatively convinced that most of my ticking wasn't
actually
lash adjuster noise and that it was probably valve-piston
interference. I
think this for multiple reasons: initial
compression readings of 240-250psi
in all cylinders; noticeably improved
engine braking when compared to stock;
pinging under heavy load conditions;
visible black crud on piston tops
(visible through plug holes); "chunks" of
carbon flakes the size of a pencil
eraser (but thin) that came out of my
cylinders after I soaked them in MCCC
overnight; and the fact that 2
overnight soakings in MCCC were required
before I could see shiny piston tops
through the plug holes.
- --Erik
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:38:36
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: "Brake-in" procedure
Ok, so I should be shot for the subject, but
I couldn't resist...
I've read Porterfield's website section on bedding
new pads and a few posts
from the archives and here's what I've come up
with... comments and
suggestions much appreciated.
Just
installed NEW cryo rotors and R4-S pads on my '95 VR-4.
Also,
completely bled the brake lines with fresh fluid (Valvoline Synthetic
for
now, better stuff next time).
* Drive the car around at low speeds
and make
sure I have no funny noises or vibrations.
* Warm the brakes up
by driving around the neighborhood
and doing some light braking, progressing
to some
medium braking from 35-40mph.
* Find my way to the interstate and
do several (2-3?)
high-speed (somewhere between 60 and 100mph)
panic stops
- nail the brakes for all they're worth.
* Drive home without using the
brakes or emergency brake.
* Get the car in the garage, do not set the
e-brake,
and quickly jump out and block the rear wheels so the
car doesn't
roll out of my garage (that should be
entertaining to watch).
* After 5-10
minutes roll the car forward 1/2 a wheel
revolution to get the pads over the
other side of
the rotor.
* Allow brakes to cool slowly and
thoroughly.
* High-speed fun at 1.5mile flat oval track on
Friday.
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS, ECS, MSunrf) 33,000
mi
FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, PRofecA, HKS SSBOV, HKS Turbo Timer
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 20:18:37
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: "Brake-in" procedure
I hate to break it like this,
but R4S pads don't require a break in.
R4 pads do, but not street
pads.
Rich
At 11:38 AM 8/8/01 -0700, Gross, Erik wrote:
>Ok,
so I should be shot for the subject, but I couldn't
resist...
>
>I've read Porterfield's website section on bedding new
pads and a few posts
>from the archives and here's what I've come up
with... comments and
>suggestions much
appreciated.
>
>Just installed NEW cryo rotors and R4-S pads on my
'95 VR-4. Also,
>completely bled the brake lines with fresh fluid
(Valvoline Synthetic for
>now, better stuff next time).
>
>*
Drive the car around at low speeds and make
> sure I have no funny noises
or vibrations.
>* Warm the brakes up by driving around the
neighborhood
> and doing some light braking, progressing to some
>
medium braking from 35-40mph.
>* Find my way to the interstate and do
several (2-3?)
> high-speed (somewhere between 60 and 100mph)
>
panic stops - nail the brakes for all they're worth.
>* Drive home without
using the brakes or emergency brake.
>* Get the car in the garage, do not
set the e-brake,
> and quickly jump out and block the rear wheels so
the
> car doesn't roll out of my garage (that should be
>
entertaining to watch).
>* After 5-10 minutes roll the car forward 1/2 a
wheel
> revolution to get the pads over the other side of
> the
rotor.
>* Allow brakes to cool slowly and thoroughly.
>* High-speed
fun at 1.5mile flat oval track on
Friday.
>
>Thanks!
>--Erik
>
>------
----------
>Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
>'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS, ECS, MSunrf)
33,000 mi
> FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, PRofecA, HKS SSBOV, HKS
Turbo Timer
>
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross***
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:28:37
-0800
From: "Charles J. Williams" <
cwilliam@gci.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension Questions
I always like to be different from everybody else. I
want to upgrade the
handling and looks of my car but I don't want to
sacrifice much on the ride.
I also want to get the car as quiet as
possible.
I've been trying to read everything I can on the 3SI board
about upgrading
the suspension. What I think I want to do is add/upgrade
front and rear sway
bars and front and rear strut tower bars. Would this
improve my cars
handling without sacrificing the ride?
I'd also like
to lower the car about 1.5" but I don't want stiffer springs.
Is there
anything wrong with taking the factory springs and cutting about
1.5" off of
them?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:29:42
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: "Brake-in" procedure
** WARNING **
New rotors need a
break-in period.
New pads (some of them) need a break-in
period.
These should not always be done at the same
time.
Cryo-treated rotors need extra care (see
below).
Recently I installed a set of the enormous AP 6-piston brakes
from GT Pro on
a friend's car. Thanks GT Pro for the "break-in"
sheets.
These "break-in" sheets for the rotors said to do easy stops for
the first
50 miles. Then some moderate stopping for the next 100
miles. The next 100
miles are some heavy braking (i.e. panic
stops). At about the second or
third interval it said to look at the
rotor and a blue tint around the rotor
(I think) means that it is getting to
the correct temperature. It is
imperative that the rotor get heated all
the way through and not just on the
surface (just the surface gets hot when
you do panic stops only and don't
let them warm up slowly). Then they
are ready for the track.
For pads it is similar but more of a couple
really hard stops to get things
near red hot and drive home without using
them. Sometimes barbequing them
also works.
Now you see why you
can't bed in pads and rotors at the same time. Not sure
how to get
around this though so good luck.
For cryo-treated rotors I sent a
post to the list (posted July 31 with
subject of "Porterfield cryo-treated
rotors") with Porterfield's own notes
on how to bed in new rotors. Not
only do you need to take them through a
good heat cycle first but take care
of them at the track.
- --Flash!
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg***
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:50:28
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: trans question
My 1st-2nd synchro got shredded in a power shift
on an uphill in the rain.
I knew the wheels were spinning on the wet pavement
so at 5,000 rpm I
shifted to second (nearly as fast as I could) and I felt
and heard what I
did not want to. From that day on there was a grind
going into second.
Sure enough, started to do bad stuff to the synchro which
led to a rebuilt
tranny in the car.
That was on a stock 1995 VR-4 with
no mods so it is not just on high boost
cars.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of David Littau
Sent: Friday,
August 03, 2001 1:47 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: trans question
How much punishment can the stock TT
transmissions take? I know a lot of
people are really cranking up the
boost, but I don't hear from people who
are shredding gears. Are the
synchros truly the only weak point? Or is
it a "before turning up the
boost, get a backup transmission" kind
of
thing?
david
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 00:55:50
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: RE: Tunning the Blitz DSBC
Roger Wrote:
>This where
the initial settings we tried three years ago and at the end it
>is
annoying to always hit the limiter as well as 0.13 kg/cm2 is too much
>overboost.
I think you meant to say "1.03 kg/cm2" is too much
boost. This is really up
to debate, but I agree that 1.03 kg/cm2
sustained boost is too much, "spike"
boosts to this level are, in my
opinion, ok - in stock form my '97 VR-4 would
spike to 1.05. At these
levels of boost, the condition of the engine and the
quality of the gas can
easily cause detonation on one 6G72 motor and not the
other. Mitsu engines
seem very detonation prone when you compare them to
other counterparts like
the Supra or 300Z TT's. Most of the Supra people
I've talked to run
1.1 - 1.2 kg/cm2, and 300Z people run about the same.
Does anybody
have experience with one of these cars that can verify this?
Even my
Miata with its stock 9.5:1 compression will safely take 0.95 kg/cm2 -
it
does have an upgraded fuel system though.
Speaking of detonation, does
anybody have a recommendation for an OBD-II scan
tool? Does anybody
out there have experience using one on a
VR-4?
Thanks
Cyrus
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#571
***************************************