Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, July 31
2001 Volume 01 : Number
563
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:58:26 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt
Hi,
I'm a rookie at all of
this, and I just bought my baby ('95 VR4 stock)
about a month ago. It's got
almost 60K (59725) on it, and I hear some kind
of sqeaking noise coming from
the belts. I don't have a spare 1/2 K right
now to get the 60K service done
right now, and was wondering if it's overly
complicated to do it myself. I
used to do some car work on my own, but the
last time i did anything more
than put on a spare tire was about 7 years
ago. I saw the 60k step by step on
the website, and it doesn't look too bad,
but in the end, if I mess up, how
bad could I damage the car, and what are
the chances of that
happening.
BTW, should i buy the service manual, or get it on
cd?
Thanks,
Alex
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:25:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel system modifications
Matt,
I keep hearing people
like yourself wanting to upgrade their fuel
system (the lines and such) and
then I keep thinking about Matt Monet
and Jack Tertadian running low and mid
11-second 1/4 miles with stock
fuel lines/filter/rails (stock intercooling
too I believe).
I recently installed a second A/F meter and so am now
monitoring O2
sensors in both exhaust fittings. In my recent trip to the
DSM
shootout, about 3800 miles total, I obeserved that one O2
meter
consistently showed richer than the other. Normally both
"signalled"
about the same but occasionally one would read richer than the
other.
It was the back one, the rear O2, that 95% of the time showed
richer.
Yes the rear bank was usually richer. Go figure. I have a stock
fuel
system except for ND 550 injectors and a "Supra" pump.
My
educated guess is that the fuel system is just fine (the lines and
stuff)
until enough fuel is flowing to max out 720 cc/min injectors
(like over 650
real engine bhp ... hmmm, anybody maxing out 720s???).
Even then it may still
be OK if the pump can keep a high enough
pressure.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2001 4:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Fuel system
modifications
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:11:32
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93 VR4...
> Take it back to AAM.For
what you paid for that work,I would surely think
> they will have a
fix.
I second that !! They probably forgot to tighten a clamp and you
are
experiencing a leak under boost or when you lift the throttle. But
the
interestign thing is the Check Engine light as this guy should not come
on
unless there is a real problem. I do not hope AAM messed somethign up
but
they have to fix it soon !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:49:19
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93 VR4...
No, this is BS !
You
have very simple mods and fuel cut also depends it depends on what boost
you
run on an almost stock car. Sorry, but it sounds that they want you to
invest
much more dollars because they say you need it. In fact you can make
it
faster but what you have now is good for 350 -360hp so they act strange
when
adding a fuel controller that is unusable on a stock car (stock
fuel
system).
Fuel cut is initiated when there is too muck knock and
the engine is in
danger or when the fuel value needed cannot be delivered by
the control
unit.
BTW, what boost did you run it on
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- -----Ursprüngliche
Nachricht-----
Von: <
robert_katrikh@mssm.edu>
An:
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Gesendet:
Montag, 30. Juli 2001 22:15
Betreff: RE: Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93
VR4...
> I called them and i was told that it was a fuel cut that the
computer
creates
> since its getting confused by the air/fuel ratio.
And it should be fixed
with
> the fuel controller A'PEX S-AFC... Does
this sound right...?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
"Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> at
Internet-Mail
> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 10:11 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st at
Internet-Mail
> Subject: RE: Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93
VR4...
>
>
> > Take it back to AAM.For what you paid for
that work,I would surely think
> > they will have a
fix.
>
> I second that !! They probably forgot to tighten a clamp
and you are
> experiencing a leak under boost or when you lift the
throttle. But the
> interestign thing is the Check Engine light as this
guy should not come on
> unless there is a real problem. I do not hope AAM
messed somethign up but
> they have to fix it soon !
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 17:40:20
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re - K&N filter
I think some vehicles show more gain then
others in this area. My
co-worker dynoed his 98 Dodge Ram w 318
w/ w/o K&N and he got an 18h.p.
improvement before and after and SOP was
very noticeable as he could easily
chirp second gear afterwards. Our
cars prob will not improve unless boost
is increased well beyond the designed
parameters.
Sam
>As for K&N's and air flow, I was at
AAM during a dyno run while they were
>trying to get a base line on a
stock VR-4. Prior to doing one run they
>wanted to see what types of
gains were available if they were to use an
>after market air filter or at
least a free flow filter. They didn't
install
>an air filter they
instead had one of the guys open the stock air box there
>by increase the
flow to the maximum extent. They held the box open between
>the air
filter and the MAS basically they were running no air filter
at
all,
>to see what results, if any, they would find. Comparing
the two runs one
>with the air filter hooked up and one without, the
result was about 1.5 HP
>difference, for what it's worth. And that
was the only change and
>everything else remained the same, so more food
for thought regarding
>filters.
>
>Dave
Best
>http://davebest.dsmpower.com/
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:35:43
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Car won't start
Mine does that too on occasion. Mine
doesn't make a sound, then I turn the
key on and off and then it goes
on. I thought is was a weak battery, but I
think it might be the
starter solenoid acting up.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, July 30, 2001 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car won't
start
>Was the car doing anything when you turned the key, like
lights dimming
like
>a noise from the starter, or was it just stone
dead when you turn the key
to
>start?
>
>Was the car cold
or hot when it refused to start?
>
>I have had a similar thing
happen with my '93 VR4 on a couple of
occassions,
>but only since I
decided to replace an idiot light on the instrument panel.
>I suspect I
loosened a connection somewhere horsing around with
the
steering
>column covers. It hasn't happened again (in about
two months).
>
>Chuck Willis
>
>> -----Original
Message-----
>> From: Brett Russell
[SMTP:brussell@powercom.net]
>> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 10:28
AM
>> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: Team3S: Car won't start
>>
>> I wanted to give the
list an update on my car...Friday night I was able
to
>> get it
running again. I had a guy from a local Dodge dealer helping
out
>> and
>> after checking various things we decided to try
to start the engine by
>> popping the clutch down a hill. We did
this twice, but had no luck with
>> it.
>> At that point we
were pretty much fearing the worst, as we'd pretty much
>> discounted
the battery, alternator, and starter. Just for the hell of it
>>
I
>> turned the key again and the car started
up!
>>
>> So, we're thinking that either the starter had the
hairs lined up just
>> right
>> or the engine stopped just at
the right time during a compression stroke
>> (dodge guy's idea, I'm
not that smart), which made it unable to turn
over.
>> I guess we
must have jarred the starter or turned the engine just enough
>> during
the popping of the clutch so that it starts now. Pretty scary
>>
thinking that this could theoretically happen at any
time.
>>
>> Thanks to all who offered input and concern about
the problem, it's truly
>> reasurring to have this list as a resource
and people who are willing to
>> help out a stranger with their
problems.
>>
>> Brett
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:56:15
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel system modifications
I think people are forcing themselves
to go to higher flowing pumps by
enlarging the fuel lines which are more then
adequate for any power levels
that 99% of the cars in our community are
making.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, July 30, 2001 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel system
modifications
>Matt,
>
>I keep hearing people like
yourself wanting to upgrade their fuel
>system (the lines and such) and
then I keep thinking about Matt Monet
>and Jack Tertadian running low and
mid 11-second 1/4 miles with stock
>fuel lines/filter/rails (stock
intercooling too I believe).
>
>I recently installed a second A/F
meter and so am now monitoring O2
>sensors in both exhaust fittings. In my
recent trip to the DSM
>shootout, about 3800 miles total, I obeserved that
one O2 meter
>consistently showed richer than the other. Normally both
"signalled"
>about the same but occasionally one would read richer than
the other.
>It was the back one, the rear O2, that 95% of the time showed
richer.
>Yes the rear bank was usually richer. Go figure. I have a stock
fuel
>system except for ND 550 injectors and a "Supra"
pump.
>
>My educated guess is that the fuel system is just fine (the
lines and
>stuff) until enough fuel is flowing to max out 720 cc/min
injectors
>(like over 650 real engine bhp ... hmmm, anybody maxing out
720s???).
>Even then it may still be OK if the pump can keep a high
enough
>pressure.
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2001 4:20 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Fuel system
modifications
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:22:01
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
street racing....sorry I brought it up
First Bob, I am sorry to hear and
see the flack you are getting on your
post, and I am not sure why anyone
would attack you personally like this. I
think the information you
presented was fair and objective, as well as being
very informative.
Some of you guys are a real disappointment, hope the next
time you post you
too receive the same type of posts back you are sending
Bob. Bob was
only providing information - he didn't say anything bad about
your mothers,
geezs.
Bottom line is street racing is illegal, all over the world.
Regardless of
how well it's done or thought to be controlled. I guess
you have never seen
a wreck at a race track, have you? And at the track
they have medical crews
standing by, just in the event something like this
might happen. Just let a
car go out of control for one reason or
another and run over little Jeffie
or little Susie and see what
happens. Track are designed to hold speed
events - not the local
industrial park road or mall parking lot and not at
3AM.
It happened
about a year ago, when a street race went wrong in Maryland and
one of the
cars veered out of control and ran into the crowd on the other
side other of
the street, killed 4 and injured 10 to 12 others. Most of the
cars the
news crews showed at the event afterward, were POS I won't trust
going 60
much less twice that speed.
As for keeping posts technical, please give
us a break. Folks come on here
at least once a week and tell us of
their times at the track and who did
what and who was there. This is
only an excuse to trash a post someone
doesn't like. And BTW this was
about racing, illegal street racing, just
from a different perspective.
This should give any street racer thoughts
that this could happen to
you. And if it's your car that goes out of
control, your life will
change in ways you can't imagine. But most of the
times
it's not the racer that get hurt it's the spectators and where do
most
spectator like to gather, at the finish line, when the car is going
the
fastest. Been there done that.
For those of you who attended
Norwalk - where were the stands, at the end
of the strip? I don't
think so, they were at the staging line and a short
distance down the track
from there.
As Chuck said a $200 track day really isn't that bad after
all. But you
have to pay to play in one form or another, your
choice.
Dave Best
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To:
"Team3S (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 30, 2001 1:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: street racing....sorry I
brought it up
> I guess I really upset this board, I have received
many E-mails that
> personally attack me as if I was at fault or
responsible for the actions
of
> the police. It has even gone to the
extent of being called several
> undesirable names. If this board is full
of "street racers" then it is not
> the place for me. I feel strongly
about putting it to an end for many
> reasons, I will support and even
volunteer hours for an event on any
> airstrip or "controlled" area. I was
not piping off to sound like I love
> the TV show Cops nor do I feel
Seattle residents were treated fairly
during
> WTO and even chuckled at
the story of our mayor getting punched with a
> megaphone for attempting
to stop a protest about police brutality.
>
> I don't hold the same
opinions as some of you so we will agree to disagree
> and leave it at
that. I think this board is in most part good and today I
> was reminded
why this was the second time I registered to it. I love my
car
> and
enjoy working on it to improve it and greatly acknowledge the help and
>
information from this board.
>
> I think it should be stopped (steet
racing), I encourage all who E-mailed
> me to go on a "ride-along" to see
it for yourself and possibly get another
> point of view....not change it,
just look at it from another side make
your
> own conclusions after you
see it from both sides.
>
> In the defense of the police officers I
rode with........many...and I do
> mean many were let go with warnings
and were given free passes to S.I.R.
> (seattle int. raceway) this
crackdown was initiated by most if not all
> businesses in the area who
pick up the tab for those free tickets to
S.I.R.
> and I can't recall
one parent giving any officer any kind of flack similar
> to what I got
today.
>
> I appologize to this board for waisting "space" with this
topic and will
> keep my opinions off the board.
>
> Regards,
Bob K.
>
> Bob K.
> 93 R/T non-turbo
> FIPK KV
85's
> Bradi cross drilled and slotted rotors
> 245/45 17's on some
kick butt rim's
> custom park plug cover plate "STEALTH"
> billet
aluminum w/neoprene radiator brakets
> Titainium dash vent
covers.......ahhhh those cracks are gone.
> ......in work---Billet
replacement for plastic wire harness for
injectors
>
---Titainium shifter
knob
>
---3.5 inch aluminum tube to replace stock intake
tube...no
> resonator
hole
:)
>
---Vented front rotor dust covers
w/scoops
>
---Front and rear strut bars
> If you are a street racer or support it,
don't bother to ask about getting
> some of these products from
me.
>
> Enjoy the day!!!!!!!!!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:13:30
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel system modifications
> I think people are forcing
themselves to go to higher flowing
> pumps by enlarging the fuel lines
which are more then
> adequate for any power levels that 99% of the cars
in our
> community are making.
The reason I went off on the fuel
system tangent is because I'm trying to
understand why my motor broke the
rear pistons while the fronts are fine.
Seems like that story replays itself
on most of the engines that have seen
piston damage. In trying to
eliminate variables, I was led to the fuel rail
design which seems a little
meager at best. The DSM guys seem to think that
their fuel system
benefits from upgraded lines, and our rails are near
identical copies of
theirs (other than 3 injectors per rail instead of 4).
Maybe it doesn't
do anything, but it also won't cost me much to ensure that
there is high flow
either.
The big-block drag racing guys use #6 hose on 350-400 HP
applications and #8
on 400-600HP applications. If I'm shooting for
600-650 HP, is the stock
line really sufficient using these guidelines or is
my fuel pump just
working much harder to keep the rail pressure high
enough?
I don't know.... Anyone else tested the flow rates?
I've heard about the
DSM fuel system tests with the Supra pump but lost my
links to that
information.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:32:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: street racing....sorry I brought it up
Bob:
I agree
strongly with the previous note..you/nobody deserves a PERSONAL
attack for
sharing thier views in a calm and objective manner.
You -all- know who
you are that Emailed him that way.
Face it..you have no tact. Youre
lucky to even -be- on the list for
expanding a list topic into a threatening
personal attack. Im not -the-
admin, but one of many. If put to a
vote..you now know what Id have to
say about it. You can always be your
juvinile selves on Starnet where it
always seems that sort of activity is
tolerated and perhaps gains you
style points at the same time.
But not
here, and not to other list members.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:17:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
Careful as Rich
Merritt found out that air flow is not always improved when
changing the
aerodynamics. Getting air to flow in from the backside of the
hood
means that it is no longer a low pressure area and that some air might
not
get sucked up from below and into the engine or through the front.
One
area's gain has to be a loss somewhere else to keep all things equal.
Has
anybody popped up the FRONT of the hood by two inches to see if this
helps
and will maintain the stock air flow through the rad and along the
bottom
splash shields and all?
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 1:51
PM
This is great info! My rear hood seal is trashed
anyway!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:37:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
> Has
anybody popped up the FRONT of the hood by two inches to see if this
>
helps and will maintain the stock air flow through the rad and along the
>
bottom splash shields and all?
- ---
Oh wow..
I have no way to
PROVE it, but that cant do anything but hurt.
You dont wanna be grabbing
air at the front edge of the hood at all...lift
and the utter lack of a lowER
pressure area behind the radiator would be a
disaster at high speed.
IMHO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:24:37
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
> Has
anybody popped up the FRONT of the hood by two inches to
> see if this
helps and will maintain the stock air flow
> through the rad and along
the bottom splash shields and all?
I'd be a little worried of the hood
catching too much air and unlatching.
I've watched it happen to a few other
guys at the dragstrip (not on 3/S
cars) and the results are "not
pretty". If you try it, make sure the hood
is very well restrained in
the front.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:30:01
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
To cover a near
mistake ... I have not latched the hood completely a time or
two (drop it and
think it latches but it does not) and drive 40 miles down
the highway at 65
mph. Darn if the initial grab of those hooks don't hold
it solid even
at 65 mph.
I am talking about hood pins or other means to keep the hood
from flying up,
obviously, and if increasing the hole in the front by the
hood, headlights,
radiators, etc. would help cool the engine instead of the
rear of the hood.
Some things I feel ashamed to have to explain on here
sometimes. Like you
think I would suggest riding around at 100 mph with
the hood up at a
15-degree angle? Get real. I'm trying to think
outside the box and get the
ball rolling to promote other thoughts.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with front brake scoops because some of us finally thought
outside
the box
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 6:25 PM
all?
I'd be a little
worried of the hood catching too much air and unlatching.
I've watched it
happen to a few other guys at the dragstrip (not on 3/S
cars) and the results
are "not pretty". If you try it, make sure the hood
is very well
restrained in the front.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:33:55
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question for Matt or anyone that can help!
What modifications do
you have other than the AVC-R?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Watkins, Jim [mailto:jim.watkins@terayon.com]
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001
12:33 PM
To: Curtis McConnel; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Question for Matt or anyone that can help!
>>I wrote a while
back about a hesitation problem with my 95 Vr-4 Spyder. I
still can't find my
problem and was thinking possibly the ECU. Matt: did you
have any problems
when you added a boost controller with the stock fuel
system? I spoke with
Brian @ GT Pro and he told me the Spyder had a
different ECU than the Hard
top ( possibly due to the governor @ 155mph?) I
thought maybe this had
something to do with it. Watching my air/fuel gauge
when the hesitation
starts and all of the lights come on and flash real
fast>>
My 95
Spyder VR4 has stock fuel and 9B turbos with the AVC-R set for 1.0
bar.
No hesitation observed. I'm not aware of any differences in ECU,
but
haven't attempted speeds above 150mph.
Jim
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:43:54
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Timing belt
Thanks for the advice. I looked more in-depth at
the step-by-step on-line,
and saw that I'd only be saving a few hundred
dollars on a six hundred
dollar service. Unforutnately my skills (or lack
thereof) will probably
cause more damage than I'd
save.
Thanks for the advice.
I live in the northern suburbs of
Chicago
Alex.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "Alex
Pedenko" <
apedenko@mediaone.net>
Sent:
Monday, July 30, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Timing belt
>
Alex,
>
> Get the manual on CD.
> Don't do the 60k yourself if
you have not worked on these cars before.
Have
> you LOOKED in the
engine bay yet? =)
>
> Congrats on buying the car.
Welcome fellow 1995 VR-4 owner. Where do you
> live?
>
>
--Flash!
>
dschilberg@pobox.com>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Alex Pedenko
> Sent:
Monday, July 30, 2001 2:58 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Timing belt
>
>
>
Hi,
>
> I'm a rookie at all of this, and I
just bought my baby ('95 VR4 stock)
> about a month ago. It's got almost
60K (59725) on it, and I hear some kind
> of sqeaking noise coming from
the belts. I don't have a spare 1/2 K right
> now to get the 60K service
done right now, and was wondering if it's
overly
> complicated to do it
myself. I used to do some car work on my own, but the
> last time i did
anything more than put on a spare tire was about 7 years
> ago. I saw the
60k step by step on the website, and it doesn't look too
bad,
> but in
the end, if I mess up, how bad could I damage the car, and what are
> the
chances of that happening.
>
> BTW, should i buy the service manual,
or get it on cd?
>
>
Thanks,
>
>
Alex
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:48:06
-0500 (CDT)
From: David Littau <
littau@cs.umn.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
San Diego shops
Can anyone recommend a good place to get the 60K service
and a clutch
replaced on a 1994 Stealth TT in San Diego county? I am
too pressed for
time to do it myself on a car I am unfamiliar with (I haven't
had the
engine out yet). If it were a 60s Mustang, I wouldn't hesitate...
.
thanks,
david
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:52:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
> To
cover a near mistake ... I have not latched the hood completely a time
or
> two (drop it and think it latches but it does not) and drive 40 miles
down
> the highway at 65 mph. Darn if the initial grab of those
hooks don't hold
> it solid even at 65 mph.
- ---
Thats because the
front of the hood is at the edge of being a
high-pressure area. Just
takes the right turbulence to lift it up, but
once it'd up just a tad..its
all over. Serious lift.
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com *
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:17:58
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel system modifications
And honestly this is a no brainer if you are
upgrading boost etc
significantly. You have to deliver fuel and you are
limited by a number
of fuel system components including line, regulator,
pump, injectors,
rails, filter. Just an FYI the stock feed fits inside a -6
line. In
summary I agree with Matt here since my goals are similar and
am
planning full upgrade of fuel system.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
>
> > I think people are
forcing themselves to go to higher flowing
> > pumps by enlarging the
fuel lines which are more then
> > adequate for any power levels that
99% of the cars in our
> > community are making.
>
> The
reason I went off on the fuel system tangent is because I'm trying to
>
understand why my motor broke the rear pistons while the fronts are
fine.
> Seems like that story replays itself on most of the engines that
have seen
> piston damage. In trying to eliminate variables, I was
led to the fuel rail
> design which seems a little meager at best.
The DSM guys seem to think that
> their fuel system benefits from upgraded
lines, and our rails are near
> identical copies of theirs (other than 3
injectors per rail instead of 4).
>
> Maybe it doesn't do anything,
but it also won't cost me much to ensure that
> there is high flow
either.
>
> The big-block drag racing guys use #6 hose on 350-400
HP applications and #8
> on 400-600HP applications. If I'm shooting
for 600-650 HP, is the stock
> line really sufficient using these
guidelines or is my fuel pump just
> working much harder to keep the rail
pressure high enough?
>
> I don't know.... Anyone else tested
the flow rates? I've heard about the
> DSM fuel system tests with
the Supra pump but lost my links to that
> information.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:32:50
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
Right.
Thanks Geoff. I saw a drag car doing 10s or 11s lost a hood pin and
up
went the hood. Amazing how a 600hp car can do a 26-second 1/4
mile.
And I don't know if the carbon fiber hoods or hoods being modified
for the
front strut tower bars will be lifted in the rear. Maybe a
combination on
the first gen cars is to remove the shock top covers and
remove the seal at
the back to get the air in there. I have a second
gen so I can't do that.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent:
Monday, July 30, 2001 7:53 PM
Thats because the front of the hood is at
the edge of being a
high-pressure area. Just takes the right turbulence
to lift it up, but
once it'd up just a tad..its all over. Serious
lift.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:46:00
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Timing belt
Alex,
The squeaking may be coming from your
belt tensioner. Check it out and try
to pinpoint the
source.
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko"
<
apedenko@mediaone.net>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 30, 2001 1:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Timing belt
>
Hi,
>
> I'm a rookie at all of this, and I
just bought my baby ('95 VR4 stock)
> about a month ago. It's got almost
60K (59725) on it, and I hear some kind
> of sqeaking noise coming from
the belts. I don't have a spare 1/2 K right
> now to get the 60K service
done right now, and was wondering if it's
overly
> complicated to do it
myself. I used to do some car work on my own, but the
> last time i did
anything more than put on a spare tire was about 7 years
> ago. I saw the
60k step by step on the website, and it doesn't look too
bad,
> but in
the end, if I mess up, how bad could I damage the car, and what are
> the
chances of that happening.
>
> BTW, should i buy the service manual,
or get it on cd?
>
>
Thanks,
>
>
Alex
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 23:31:37
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
> I am
talking about hood pins or other means to keep the
> hood from flying up,
obviously, and if increasing the
> hole in the front by the hood,
headlights, radiators,
> etc. would help cool the engine instead of the
rear of
> the hood.
If there's enough lift on the hood from it
gathering too much air in the
front, pins won't be enough to hold
it.
> Some things I feel ashamed to have to explain on here
>
sometimes. Like you think I would suggest riding
> around at 100 mph
with the hood up at a 15-degree
> angle? Get real. I'm trying
to think outside the
> box and get the ball rolling to promote other
thoughts.
Even a couple degrees is enough to get some serious air under
the hood -
enough to pull it off the safety latch.
I wouldn't have
brought it up if it isn't a SERIOUS concern. I can just
imagine someone
trying it next weekend at the dragstrip and the track
marshall not catching
it. When the latch lets go (and they DO - I've SEEN
it! TWICE!!!)
the hood doesn't stop when it goes up to its normal limit, it
smashes right
through the windshield and obstructs the vision of the driver
at a
minimum.
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with front brake scoops because
some of us
> finally thought outside the box
Brake scoops aren't in
the same class of risk - they aren't going to be a
safety hazard. If
they fall off or whatever, chances of someone getting
injured are pretty
small.
Think outside the box all you want, but remember there are people
here with
all sorts of different experience levels. I'm trying to
prevent someone
from going out and not latching their hood properly and
getting seriously
hurt or killed. This idea goes way beyond simply
removing the rear hood
seal which poses a greatly smaller risk of anything
negative happening.
Experiment all you want, but understand the risks -
or at least point them
out when sharing ideas.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 06:06:50
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Timing belt
> I looked more in-depth at the step-by-step
on-line,
> and saw that I'd only be saving a few hundred dollars on
a six hundred
> dollar service
Please keep in mind that the Mitsu
60k doesn't include some of the things
you've probably seen on the
webpage. There are a few item that should be
replaced that are not
critical, but highly recommended. Make sure to ask
what they will
replace, and bring a list of what the website said. Spend a
little
extra and make sure you get it all done right. Good luck,
- -Paul -
3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped
plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads,
& SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:19:49
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series
#7
Flash,
I don't think that's what's happenning here. It's
not air flowing into the
back of the hood - it's air being sucked out of the
engine compartment
through the back of the hood. We can check that with
some little flags on
the hood and windshield. Right now I think there's
not much air flow past
the rear turbo.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 5:18 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series
>
#7
>
> Careful as Rich Merritt found out that air flow is not
always improved
> when
> changing the aerodynamics. Getting
air to flow in from the backside of
> the
> hood means that it is no
longer a low pressure area and that some air
> might
> not get
sucked up from below and into the engine or through the front.
>
>
One area's gain has to be a loss somewhere else to keep all things
equal.
>
> Has anybody popped up the FRONT of the hood by two
inches to see if this
> helps and will maintain the stock air flow through
the rad and along the
> bottom splash shields and all?
>
>
--Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis,
Charles E.
> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 1:51 PM
>
> This is
great info! My rear hood seal is trashed anyway!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 07:59:08
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Street racing
I appologize to this board but this must
stop..........
This is for the individuals who think its funny to send me
E-mails about
"cop-killers" and praise to the people who do so. I will
forward your
"private" E-mails to the board as well as the admin's so
everyone can see
just how much trash I'm getting from yesterdays post. I
this continues
throughout the day I will "De-list" myself and continue
business elsewhere.
My post was not a "shame-shame" pointing fingers on
anyone but more of an
informative on the penalties that the police will be
inforced.
this is getting very old very fast.....................please
drop it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 11:26:12
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New Pictures of Polished Spark Plug Cover
Hey all.
I just
got my new Polished Spark Cover installed yesterday, made by our
wonderful
list member Robert Koch, and it looks awesome.
The price was extremely
reasonable, and he is a pleasure to deal with, I
even ordered a spare in case
of emergency, or in other words if I mess it
up.
Take a look at it,
you won't be disappointed.
http://members.home.com/anthonymelillo/3000gt.htmAnthony
Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#563
***************************************