Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, July 29
2001 Volume 01 : Number
561
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 28 Jul 2001 14:28:06 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
What parts do I need to swap to enable
datalogging on my '95 R/T TT? Is it
cost prohibitive?
I know I can
swap several body panels and make a 1st gen into a 2nd gen,
but since I have
a 2nd gen car already and I like it very much I would
rather swap some parts
than whole cars. Thanks.
Philip
'95 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 14:44:48
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
> What parts do I need to swap
to enable datalogging on my
> '95 R/T TT? Is it cost
prohibitive?
Theoretically, a '96 ECU would do the trick. There may
be some parts that
the '96 ECU would look for that wouldn't be on your '95,
however - like the
MAP sensor on the intake plenum to verify operation of the
EGR system, and
the possibility of wanting a different number of connected O2
sensors to
verify precat operation. Other than that, there shouldn't be
major
differences. I was considering doing this to my car, but have
gotten
sidetracked (mine already has 4 O2 sensors since it is CA
emissions).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 16:11:40
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
Just the '96 ECU and some extra
sensors? Hmmm.. Would a TMO datalogger
connect to this? I thought that it
only works with 1st gen cars.
I read several of your posts about
datalogging from a year ago. Would you
happen to have the part number of
that ECU? Thanks.
Philip
'95 R/T TT
At 02:44 PM 7/28/2001,
Jannusch, Matt wrote:
> > What parts do I need to swap to enable
datalogging on my
> > '95 R/T TT? Is it cost
prohibitive?
>
>Theoretically, a '96 ECU would do the trick.
There may be some parts that
>the '96 ECU would look for that wouldn't be
on your '95, however - like the
>MAP sensor on the intake plenum to verify
operation of the EGR system, and
>the possibility of wanting a different
number of connected O2 sensors to
>verify precat operation. Other
than that, there shouldn't be major
>differences. I was considering
doing this to my car, but have gotten
>sidetracked (mine already has 4 O2
sensors since it is CA emissions).
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 16:26:49
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
> Just the '96 ECU and some
extra sensors? Hmmm.. Would a TMO datalogger
> connect to this? I thought
that it only works with 1st gen cars.
Not the TMO, but an OBD-II logger
will work with that. If you want to go
the TMO route then you need to
change a lot more as the harness connections
at the ECU and the diagnostic
connector changed in '94 (if I remember
correctly).
> I read
several of your posts about datalogging from a year
> ago. Would you
happen to have the part number of that ECU? Thanks.
'96 ECU is part
number MD339762 for ECUs dated between 05/96 and 05/98 for
VR4s.
I'm
not saying this WILL work, I'm saying it will probably work. The
things
I looked at briefly when I was looking for answers seemed to suggest
that it
would pretty much plug in and work, but maybe throw some Check Engine
codes
for missing sensors. I didn't fully go through the wiring
harnesses between
95/96 to make sure all the pins lined up - but the ones I
did check were
correct.
If you are serious about it, do some more
research with the service manuals
and the ECU pinouts first.
Other
possibilities for datalogging would be some sort of dedicated logger
(Jeg's
sells them - pretty expensive) or the PMS when it is available.
Neither of
those solutions will give you the all-important Knock Sum
reading, but you
should be able to see timing advance, which is related to
knock.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 17:48:30
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE:Team3S: Rewire Fuel Pump
Hi,
Just follow the directions you see
on this site, they are the same for
3/S cars... but some wire colors may vary
(it's easy to tell whats
what though)
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-relay.htmlVinny
Singh
http://www.ecanfix.com/ - Your
Chicagoland IT/IS solution provider
http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
> From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
> To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Cc: "'Starnet'" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2001 8:08 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Rewire Fuel
Pump
>
>
> The battery in my car has been moved to the
rear. The battery is
> literally within a foot of the fuel pump
now. I have heard talk
> about
> running heavier gauge wire to
the fuel pump to provide better
voltage
> for increased
flow/reliability. Question: The fuel pump appears to
> have 4
wires coming from it. What are the different wires, and what
> would
be the best way to wire this. I was thinking some sort of
fuel
>
cutoff switch externally mounted (as required by certain
>
organizations
> for rear mounted batteries), as well as a Cutoff switch
inside the
> car
> (for anti-theft purposes). I am thinking
some sort of high-amperage
> relay in the rear above the fuel pump, but I
want it controlled by
> the
> car as to when its on/off mainly, just
having the external and
> internal cutoffs also.
>
> What
would be the best way???
>
> - -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 22:53:30
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
Thanks for the info. My last
question, before I start the research with the
service manuals and the ECU
pinouts, how much does this OBD-II logger cost.
Thank
you.
Philip
At 04:26 PM 7/28/2001, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>
> Just the '96 ECU and some extra sensors? Hmmm.. Would a TMO
datalogger
> > connect to this? I thought that it only works with 1st
gen cars.
>
>Not the TMO, but an OBD-II logger will work with
that. If you want to go
>the TMO route then you need to change a lot
more as the harness connections
>at the ECU and the diagnostic connector
changed in '94 (if I remember
>correctly).
>
> > I read
several of your posts about datalogging from a year
> > ago. Would you
happen to have the part number of that ECU? Thanks.
>
>'96 ECU is
part number MD339762 for ECUs dated between 05/96 and 05/98
for
>VR4s.
>
>I'm not saying this WILL work, I'm saying it
will probably work. The things
>I looked at briefly when I was
looking for answers seemed to suggest that it
>would pretty much plug in
and work, but maybe throw some Check Engine codes
>for missing
sensors. I didn't fully go through the wiring harnesses
between
>95/96 to make sure all the pins lined up - but the ones I did
check were
>correct.
>
>If you are serious about it, do some
more research with the service manuals
>and the ECU pinouts
first.
>
>Other possibilities for datalogging would be some sort of
dedicated logger
>(Jeg's sells them - pretty expensive) or the PMS when it
is available.
>Neither of those solutions will give you the all-important
Knock Sum
>reading, but you should be able to see timing advance, which is
related to
>knock.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 22:18:27
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Datalogging on a 2nd gen 3S
> Thanks for the info. My last
question, before I start the
> research with the service manuals and the
ECU pinouts, how
> much does this OBD-II logger cost.
The Alex
Pepper ISO OBD-II logger is $122. Its a little bare-bones and
the
documentation is pretty poor but it works.
http://www.obd-2.com/ That's
what I
use on my '96 Avenger ES - its workable and cheap. Logging is about
as
good as OBD-II gets as far as samples per second. Graphing
is
rudimentary.
Otherwise any OBD-II logger should function with the
'96 and later ECU.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 23:47:31
EDT
From:
MaxNix@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: EGT Temps
Some background about the car:
I have a 92 Stealth
TT. I recently rebuilt my engine. Among other things I
installed ceramic
coated forged pistons and had the exhaust manifold ceramic
coated also. I
have gutted precats, ATR downpipe, hi flo cat, stock catback,
15g's upgraded
fuel rails, fuel pump and 720cc injectors. I'm trying to tune
it with an
arc2. Prior to the rebuild I had 550cc injectors with a VPC/GCC
combination.
It ran quite well but the rings began to go at 100,000 miles.
Since
the rebuild I'm having a difficult time trying to tune it. My A/F gauge
seems to go wildly rich regardless of my ARC settings. It doesn't want to
idle properly. Below 1000rpm it is constantly very lean. It doesn't start
very well. Also appears to be more than a minor amount of oil in the intake
pipes which may be contributing to the problems. The turbos have between 30
and 50,000 miles of use. (They came from Matt Meyer's car). They seemed to
be
working fine prior to the rebuild. I don't see any clouds of exhaust but
there is oil in the intake. I don't know how much is too much. I'm also
wondering if an incorrectly adjusted or faulty TPS would make it worse. To
complicate matters a little more, my IAC motor sounds strange when the
ignition is first turned on, but responds normally to turning on the
AC.
The car has dual EGT gauges. The front bank appears at
times to run 50-75 F
hotter than the rear bank. The A/F gauge
indicates the front bank
ocaisonally goes lean for no apparent reason,
especially at idle. Everything
always goes heavy rich at WOT. The car
doesn't have the power it had before.
I have not boosted past 1.0bar. My
EGT's are going to 1600-1650 F at approx
5500rpm in 3rd gear and will reach
that level at approximately 5000rpm in
4th. I've increased the gain on
the ARC2 but temps remain the same. I'm
afraid to push it to the redline.
Temps are about 1300-1400 F at 2500rpm
cruise and range from 800-1000 F at
idle. Is 1600 F normal under WOT at
5500rpm? The gauge is moving so fast
under WOT that I'm afraid I'll blink an
eye while the engine begins a
meltdown. Increasing the gain at this point is
definitely pushing too much
fuel. I need guideance here please. If the temps
are not normal, what are
contributing factors other than lean mixture or
detonation ? Would the
ceramic coated manifold cause higher readings ? The
A/F and EGT gauges were
purchased from Westach. My understanding was that
they were relatively
accurate gauges. I tapped the temp probes before the
turbos just past the
point where the exhaust runners join together. It also
has iridium plugs one
step colder than stock. Would this contribute to the
problem ?
Any ideas
other than putting a supercharger in the trunk would be greatly
appreciated!
Thanks,
Paul
92RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 03:06:56
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Symptoms of failing O2 sensors.
Just wondering if anyone knows
what happens when your O2 sensors start going
south.
How does the car
act?
Thinking my O2 sensors were bad, I disconnected them to see what
would
happen. I expected the check engine light to at least come on, it
didn't.
I've heard of the check engine light not always coming on if one
of the
sensors is a miss.
My thinking is that since when I
disconnected them no check engine light, if
they are bad then I still would
get no check engine light.
Any ideas....
Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 07:28:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGT Temps
Paul,
Lots of changes and lots of symptoms. You
won't like this idea, but I
suggest returning the engine to near stock
condition as far as
injectors and MAS. That will eliminate the ARC2 as a
possible cause
of problems. Then add the ARC2 back in and adjust it for the
stock
injectors. Then add the injectors. 720s are a litle big for
15Gs
unless you are running over 20 psi boost. The turbos and fuel
pump
should not make any difference as far as your problems go -
assuming
they are in good working order. Try connecting a TMO and checking
the
function of the IAC and TPS. The TMO will also reveal IPW and
timing
for you among other things - particularly the fuel trims which
will
tell you if you have adjusted the ARC2 lean or rich. Remember the
ECM
will adjust fuel delivery at idle and other closed loop
situations
despite your ARC2 adjustment.
As far as tuning the ARC2 I
have some tips at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-arc2tuning.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
MaxNix@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, July 28, 2001 9:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: EGT Temps
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 12:21:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
Not sure if I
replied to this yet. I have been out of town.
Bill Hubbell is
currently running first gen calipers, Porterfield pads,
Porterfield rotors,
SS lines, and Motul 600 brake fluid on his 1992 VR-4.
We were at Poconos and
the Glen in the last two week. Definitely a problem
even with this
setup.
I loaned him my Big Reds for a day and that definitely solved the
problem.
Then the weak links was cooling the water enough on the 95+
temperature
days.
First gen stock calipers DO hold up for several hard
laps which require a
brake bleed. Several non-hard laps (letting the
AWD dig in the corners)
will yield more laps but will be less
dramatic.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com[mailto:owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com]On
Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 11:12 PM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
3S-Racers: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
OK, I've figured out that
we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
That means they won't clear a
set of 94 calipers.
Back to Square One.
Has anyone been running a 1st
Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
If so, what are you using for
pads/rotors/cooling?
How's it working?
Rich/old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 12:38:37
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
One more note from
the last two weeks of working with Bill Hubbell's car on
the track is that
the cross-drilled rotors cracked right through the holes
(mostly on the ones
in the middle of the rotor but the ones on the outside
cracked nicely).
One more hard session would have been a bit nasty.
I don't know if we
have a list of what rotors have the holes cast in place
instead of
drilled. I know there was discussion here earlier but now I have
seen
firsthand about this. The cross-drilling helps mostly in wet
racing
when the pads need to get the water off the rotor in order to work but
in
dry weather in might not be advisable.
The first gen calipers had
no air scoops so they were getting hot.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big
Reds
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com[mailto:owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 9:17 AM
To:
'Merritt';
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
Rich,
I
have been running my '93 VR4 for three seasons with stock 1st
generation
brakes. I have no ducting. I used Stillen crossdrilled
rotors. Initially,
I used Stillen Metal Matrix pads, but they don't
work well. I found that
Carbotech Panther Pads, which you can get from
Jamn Motorsports
(
http://www.jamnmotorsports.com/),
give you excellent braking and wear about
1/8" per weekend event.
I
refaced the rotors after each event. I had a set of stock
rotors
crossdrilled at a machine shop, and alternated between the Stillens
and
homemade, until the homemade finally failed (after two years of use
-
probably 6-8 events).
I rebuilt the front calipers by choice, and
wound up rebuilding the rear
calipers by necessity. I also rebuilt the
brake master cylinder, although
the old one was still functional.
Of
course, I am using Motul brake fluid.
Sadly, my '93 is retired to be our
commuter car, so my '94 is taking to the
track.
Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 13:47:26
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tyre size
I thought all VR-4 cars were AWD and therefore all four
tires and wheels
should be the same. It is okay to alter sizes on FWD
cars. You sure you
aren't having center differential problems with
different sizes on a VR-4?
I tried that and had horrible traction (I did it
as a test).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.auSent:
Tuesday, July 24, 2001 6:58 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: tyre size
Hey
I have 18 x 10 (rear) and 18 x 9 (front)
rims for my VR4.
Can some one tell me what dimension tyres go on these
wheels.
Thanks
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 13:50:49
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
Thanks, Oskar. Also, after
riding in a nicely-modified car this weekend
(Intrax springs and GAB shocks)
I found that the shocks made the ride much
stiffer than just the springs did
so perhaps these springs and a nice set of
shocks is the
key.
Thanks.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Oskar
Sent: Tuesday, July 24,
2001 9:25 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: OT: Eibachs from
Carparts.com
You missed the lower part of Bob's post:
Stock spring
rates are:
'94+ AWD
Front: 212 lb/in
Rear:
157lb/in
Oskar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 13:57:38
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheel Weight
That page has good info but nothing for us.
I
have stock 18x8.5" wheels and 245/40/18 Pirelli P-Zero tires (50#)
I also
have stock 17x8.5" wheels and 255/40/17 Yoko A032 tires (50#)
Both were
weighed on bathroom scales. Don't know wheel weight since they
always
come back mounted from the tire shop (which is what I ask actually)
but 29#
per wheel from Jeff is accurate I believe.
The 17" wheels are about the
best for supporting our heavy car and being
quick to accelerate and
brake. This was tested in a Sport Compact Car
article a bunch of months
ago.
My 18x8.5" wheels and Pirelli P-Zero tires are on their 27,000th
mile and
still going strong. They were never designed to run this long
(all the talk
is they only last about 15,000 miles) but they have been 30%
commuting and
70% highway use.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Friday,
July 27, 2001 10:03 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel Weight
The stock 17x8.5 wheels for my 1992 Stealth TT
weigh 29lbs each
(after powdercoating). I replaced them with SSR GT1 forged
wheels
which weigh 20 lbs each. The Nitto NT-555 P245/45ZR17 tires weigh
28
lbs each. I replaced them with Pirelli P ZEro Rosso
Asimmetrico
265/35ZR18 tires that weigh 26 lbs each. Savings were 11 pounds
per
set (weighed on my bathroom scales). The SSR/Pirelli combo
just
survived 3800 miles (to DSM shootout and back) of high speed
driving
on the sometimes crappy road called I-70 and the many roads near
it.
Bone jarring excurions through pot holes and other road hazards
did
not damage the wheels. The wheels did suffer some scratches on
the
finsish from small rocks flying around.
The "wheel weight page"
has some good info on it.
http://home.earthlink.net/~cvlocas/wheels.htmlJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 14:02:32
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Which boost gauge matches best
But with a boost gauge there is
normally going to be a boost controller.
Wouldn't THIS be the best place to
set the warning and max instead of
watching the gauge when you are in the
middle of a turn concentrating on the
road?
I don't like things that
block the gauges because this is where the high
beam indicator is and things
like that. You might have the high beams on
and never know it or have
the e-brake on and not know it since the gauges
are covering up the
dash.
A friend's car recently had the Blitz or HKS boost controller (the
thin one)
on top of the steering column and the Split Second Rich/Lean thing
on top of
that.
Don't forget that some gauges that have memory recall
are only offered in
one style or Indiglo ones too.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Friday,
July 27, 2001 10:34 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Which boost gauge matches best
I personally do not like the
boost gauge on the A-pillar. I have my
GReddy peak-hold-warn 60-mm gauge
mounted on the steering column
cover (using GReddy's mount). Visually to the
driver, it is centered
on the tach gauge and does not obscure
anything.
A-pillar pods come in "52-mm" only (single or double). I have
seen
some 60-mm gauges used though - depends on the depth of the gauge.
A
46-mm gauge would not fit with some sort of adaptation.
I didn't
look at the models you show below, but I highly recommend a
boost gauge that
has warning and peak-hold ability. This means
electronic of
course.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 14:13:52
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Lap Times
After adding my Big Reds, Porterfield cryo rotors,
Pagid Orange pads, and
Motul 600 brake fluid to a first gen car with SS lines
already, Intrax
springs, and GAB shocks I did some brake testing in it
myself. Slammed them
on at 80 mph as hard as I could and the rear still
felt loose and wanted to
step out a little. Just like it did on mine
with stock suspension. So the
rear barely brakes at all under hard
braking.
I did not think there was a way to change the brake bias.
That discussion
went through already.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Friday, July 27, 2001 12:45 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Lap
Times
There's been a lot of discussion about rear brake improvements, for
example,
you can upgrade the rear brakes on a 1st generation to 2nd
generation two
piston calipers and rotors pretty inexpensively. However, the
consensus was
that since the weight transfers to the front wheels during hard
braking,
efforts to improve rear braking don't really yield a big
payoff.
Jeff Lucius has a big section on brake
upgrades.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1 #561
***************************************
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, July 30
2001 Volume 01 : Number
562
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 29 Jul 2001 15:46:57 EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: tyre size
> You sure you
> aren't having center
differential problems with different sizes on a VR-4?
I was under the
impression that if you had different diameter tires, it would
mess up your
center diff. but if you have different width, it would be ok. I
have
seen more than one 3/S with wider tires on the rear. From what I
understand, they do it because of the 60/40 (or whatever it was) split in
the
differential so it gives better traction.
- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped
plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads,
& SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 17:39:25
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheel Weight
The 1999 3000GT SL 17x8.5" wheels weigh 22#.
The Yoko A032 255/40/17 tire
weighs 28# for a total of around 50#.
The
1995 3000GT VR-4 18x8.5" wheel plus Pirelli P-Zero 245/40/18 tire
weighs
about 50#.
Hence the large difference in time on a track or
dragstrip using a 17" wheel
(about 7# per corner of weight getting slung
around and around).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 1:58
PM
That page has good info but nothing for us.
I have stock
18x8.5" wheels and 245/40/18 Pirelli P-Zero tires (50#)
I also have stock
17x8.5" wheels and 255/40/17 Yoko A032 tires (50#)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 09:55:43
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT Temps
Paul,
Your EGT's sound fine. I've been
running @ 1.2 bar with nothing more than
an AFC fuel controller and 500's for
going on 3yrs. With my probe located
in a similar position on the back
TC I see max temps between 1550 and 1650
under heavy throttle. Oil
(assuming it is oil) in the intake, on the other
hand, sounds a bit
strange. Have you re-tested compression since
your
rebuild?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 20:20:28
-0400
From: "Katrikh, Robert" <
robert.katrikh@mssm.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93 VR4...
This weekend I went to AAM(Altered
Atmosphere Motorsports) and got a
Downpipe,Blow off Valve(HKS), Turbo
timer(HKS) and Turbo COntroller(ecv
iV)... A day after i got them installed
as soon as i start the car and
pull out of the drive way my car stalls but i
can recover from the stall
by pressing gas... also the (check engine) light
comes on for 2 seconds
and turns off right away. This same thing happens
irradically when i
accelerate(floor it)... Does anyone think that it can be
the
turbo-controller confusing the MAS-air sensor or the computer....
And
also i noticed that my voltage lowered because of all the
guages
controllers and timers that they put in... Is there anything on
the
market like a stronger alternator....?? I'm a rookie so i need
help...
Thanks A Lot...
Robert Katrikh
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 17:45:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93 VR4...
Robert, those are excellent
rookie questions!
The EVC IV boost controller has absolutely nothing to
do with the
MAS, or any other component of the car except for the wastegates
-
assuming it is wired correctly and there are no air leaks.
I have 2
EGT gauges, an electronic fuel pressure gauge, an electronic
boost gauge, 2
ARM1 A/F meters, an HKS EVC IV boost controller, an
ARC2, and a "Supra" fuel
pump (draws twice as many amps as stock) and
at times run my portable
computer with a DC-AC inverter (no bat for
computer), a cell phone charger,
and the G-tech. These do not present
any significant draw on the alternator
on my '92 TT. I bet that
unless you install big stereo amps, you cannot draw
too much for our
alternator - assuming it is functioning correctly. Have you
checked
yours? A bad alternator could easily affect idle and other
engine
functions.
Did the car function correctly before you took it to
AAM?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Katrikh, Robert" <
robert.katrikh@mssm.edu>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, July 29, 2001 6:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93
VR4...
This weekend I went to AAM(Altered Atmosphere Motorsports) and
got a
Downpipe,Blow off Valve(HKS), Turbo timer(HKS) and
Turbo
COntroller(ecv
iV)... A day after i got them installed as soon as i
start the car
and
pull out of the drive way my car stalls but i can
recover from the
stall
by pressing gas... also the (check engine) light
comes on for 2
seconds
and turns off right away. This same thing happens
irradically when i
accelerate(floor it)... Does anyone think that it can be
the
turbo-controller confusing the MAS-air sensor or the computer....
And
also i noticed that my voltage lowered because of all the
guages
controllers and timers that they put in... Is there anything on
the
market like a stronger alternator....?? I'm a rookie so i
need
help...
Thanks A Lot...
Robert
Katrikh
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 21:49:22
-0700
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93 VR4...
Take it back to AAM.For what
you paid for that work,I would surely think
they will have a fix.And you
should pay nothing to get it right!Those guys
know what they're doing,and
something isn't set up right.They will fix
it.Don't do anything to it till
they check it out.Think about it man,if they
just did all that work and it
ain't right,let them get it right.They are
good people and will make it
right.TAKE IT BACK!!
RICK
"Katrikh, Robert" wrote:
> This
weekend I went to AAM(Altered Atmosphere Motorsports) and got a
>
Downpipe,Blow off Valve(HKS), Turbo timer(HKS) and Turbo COntroller(ecv
>
iV)... A day after i got them installed as soon as i start the car and
>
pull out of the drive way my car stalls but i can recover from the stall
>
by pressing gas... also the (check engine) light comes on for 2 seconds
>
and turns off right away. This same thing happens irradically when i
>
accelerate(floor it)... Does anyone think that it can be the
>
turbo-controller confusing the MAS-air sensor or the computer.... And
>
also i noticed that my voltage lowered because of all the guages
>
controllers and timers that they put in... Is there anything on the
>
market like a stronger alternator....?? I'm a rookie so i need
help...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:56:54
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel Weight
Darren Schilberg said:
>> I have
stock 18x8.5" wheels and 245/40/18 Pirelli P-Zero
>> tires (50#)
I also have stock 17x8.5" wheels and
>> 255/40/17 Yoko A032 tires
(50#)
> The 1999 3000GT SL 17x8.5" wheels weigh 22#. The
Yoko
> A032 255/40/17 tire weighs 28# for a total of around
50#.
> The 1995 3000GT VR-4 18x8.5" wheel plus Pirelli P-Zero
>
245/40/18 tire weighs about 50#.
> Hence the large difference in time
on a track or
> dragstrip using a 17" wheel (about 7# per corner
of
> weight getting slung around and around).
I think I missed your
point here somehow...
18x8.5 w/P-Zero = 50 pounds per corner
17x8.5
w/A032 = 50 pounds per corner
17x8.5
SL = 50 pounds per corner
Where's the
7 extra pounds on the 17" wheel?
If anything, I'd expect the 17"
wheel/tire to weigh less than the 18"
combination since the metallic mass
should be higher than rubber mass. More
metal, less rubber should still
be more weight than less metal and more
rubber. (Did that make
sense?)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 00:01:16
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93 VR4...
> This weekend I went to
AAM(Altered Atmosphere
> Motorsports) and got a Downpipe,Blow off
>
Valve(HKS), Turbo timer(HKS) and Turbo
> COntroller(ecv iV)... A day after
i got them
> installed as soon as i start the car and pull
> out of
the drive way my car stalls but i can
> recover from the stall by pressing
gas...
The HKS BOV probably isn't set up right, or something they did
caused a
vacuum leak somewhere. Take it back to them and have them fix
it. If the
problem persists, get rid of the HKS valve and put the stock
one back on.
The HKS BOV is a waste of money anyway, especially if you don't
have a VPC
(my opinion).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 01:17:05
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheel Weight
You mis-quoted me. You have all three of those
weighing 50# when one of
them is the wheel only (17" 1999 SL wheel) which
should weigh in at 22# via
the bathroom scale.
18x8.5" wheel with
245/40/18 P-Zero tire is 50#
17x8.5" wheel with 255/40/17 Yoko A032 tire is
50#
Let's go back to school. Area is equal to Pi*r^2.
18"
wheel
(3.141592654) * (18"/2)^2 * (8.5") = 2,168 in^3
17"
wheel
(3.141592654) * (17"/2)^2 * (8.5") = 1,929 in^3
Don't forget to
remove the mass from the center of the wheel and you get the
amount of
metal. Even the total here is only a difference of 239 in^3.
Let's say
a wheel is one inch thick so the 18" wheel mass is the 18" wheel
above minus
the 17" wheel mass or 239 in^3. The 17" wheel is the 17" wheel
mass
from above minus 1,709 in^3 or 220 in^3. Is my math correct? Is
it
late and my mind going weird?
I know the wheel is 1" smaller but
the tire is 10 mm (almost 0.5") wider and
the Yoko A032 is a very thick tire
so you can't compare Macintosh apples to
Granny Smith apples here. I
can weigh it again but the bathroom scale was
about 50# on both
wheels.
And after 4,000 pounds this weight is negligible anyway.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 12:57 AM
Darren Schilberg
said:
>> I have stock 18x8.5" wheels and 245/40/18 Pirelli
P-Zero
>> tires (50#) I also have stock 17x8.5" wheels
and
>> 255/40/17 Yoko A032 tires (50#)
> The 1999 3000GT SL
17x8.5" wheels weigh 22#. The Yoko
> A032 255/40/17 tire weighs 28#
for a total of around 50#.
> The 1995 3000GT VR-4 18x8.5" wheel plus
Pirelli P-Zero
> 245/40/18 tire weighs about 50#.
> Hence the
large difference in time on a track or
> dragstrip using a 17" wheel
(about 7# per corner of
> weight getting slung around and
around).
I think I missed your point here somehow...
18x8.5
w/P-Zero = 50 pounds per corner
17x8.5 w/A032 = 50 pounds per
corner
17x8.5 SL = 50 pounds per
corner
Where's the 7 extra pounds on the 17" wheel?
If anything,
I'd expect the 17" wheel/tire to weigh less than the 18"
combination since
the metallic mass should be higher than rubber mass. More
metal, less
rubber should still be more weight than less metal and more
rubber.
(Did that make sense?)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 06:35:42
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Which boost gauge matches best
Thanks for the tip about the
warnings in the boost controller, I completely
forgot about it.
Jeff
said that his boost gauge it is centered on the tach gauge and does
not
obscure anything. That probably means that it is installed a little to
the
left from the center.
Philip
At 01:02 PM 7/29/2001, Darren
Schilberg wrote:
>But with a boost gauge there is normally going to be a
boost controller.
>Wouldn't THIS be the best place to set the warning and
max instead of
>watching the gauge when you are in the middle of a turn
concentrating on the
>road?
>
>I don't like things that block
the gauges because this is where the high
>beam indicator is and things
like that. You might have the high beams on
>and never know it or
have the e-brake on and not know it since the gauges
>are covering up the
dash.
>
>A friend's car recently had the Blitz or HKS boost
controller (the thin one)
>on top of the steering column and the Split
Second Rich/Lean thing on top of
>that.
>
>Don't forget that
some gauges that have memory recall are only offered in
>one style or
Indiglo ones too.
>
>--Flash!
>1995
VR-4
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Jeff Lucius
>Sent:
Friday, July 27, 2001 10:34 AM
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Which boost gauge matches best
>
>
>I personally
do not like the boost gauge on the A-pillar. I have my
>GReddy
peak-hold-warn 60-mm gauge mounted on the steering column
>cover (using
GReddy's mount). Visually to the driver, it is centered
>on the tach gauge
and does not obscure anything.
>
>A-pillar pods come in "52-mm" only
(single or double). I have seen
>some 60-mm gauges used though - depends
on the depth of the gauge. A
>46-mm gauge would not fit with some sort of
adaptation.
>
>I didn't look at the models you show below, but I
highly recommend a
>boost gauge that has warning and peak-hold ability.
This means
>electronic of course.
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:10:56
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Mods on a Stock 93 VR4...
Whyfore? I have the HKS SSBOV
on my car, but it came that way. What does the
VPC do to it?
And,
how do I adjust my BOV correctly? Its killing me, I can't find
info
anywhere...
Thanks so much
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T
TT
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
APEXi AVC-R 1.0bar
Improved precats,
Bozzspeed flywheel, RPS Stage II
HKS SSBOV, Autometer boost
gauge
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
> > This weekend I went to
AAM(Altered Atmosphere
> > Motorsports) and got a Downpipe,Blow
off
> > Valve(HKS), Turbo timer(HKS) and Turbo
> >
COntroller(ecv iV)... A day after i got them
> > installed as soon as i
start the car and pull
> > out of the drive way my car stalls but i
can
> > recover from the stall by pressing gas...
>
> The
HKS BOV probably isn't set up right, or something they did caused a
>
vacuum leak somewhere. Take it back to them and have them fix it. If
the
> problem persists, get rid of the HKS valve and put the stock one
back on.
> The HKS BOV is a waste of money anyway, especially if you don't
have a VPC
> (my opinion).
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:23:09
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT:Street Racing............A BIG NO NO
Well as some of you know
a good friend of mine is a police officer. This
past Saturday I got the
opportunity to "ride along" with him on a street
racing crack down. It is
truly the best way to speed around your
neighborhood and get your fix
(riding with our cities finest that is). I
fear the day my son (now 3) grows
up and gets involved in this activity, It
has started me thinking about
putting money away to get him involved in
"Track Sports" maybe go-carts or
motto-cross or those real cool mini
dragsters. Anything to discourage him
from doing this activity. It is
brutal to watch 45+ police cars swoop in and
slap the cuffs around. There
must have been 100 cars lined up....just like
the movies. If you were under
18 you were held at the scene until your
parrents came and got you...it was
3:30 a.m. and the got to watch they're
car get rolled off to the impound.
The internet is a wonderful
thing....many web sites that are used to
organize these events are monitored
and even set-up by cops. Many cops have
those 2-way radios to see where the
set-up is taking place........Even a
helicopter is used during this. They
use under cover cars (i.e..
Volvo's,BMW's,you could imagine what drug seized
cars they have) it is
truly an orchestrated work of art. I think its up to
the point of being
unfair for those kids but then I think of the speeders on
my street and
imagine my kids getting hit by one of them and that unfair
feeling goes
away at the first thought of it.
1) Recklace
racing---You WILL get towed, and a manditory court date with a
500.00
fine...to start.....it gets worse when the judge gets a shot at you.
(community service..etc.)
2) Recklace endangerment---(being the starter
or finisher of the set track
or being a spotter) same fines as above but not
a moving violation. A
spotter is the guy with a radio to alert the racers of
cops in the area.
3) Modified exhaust---75.00...anything over 95Db.....well
anything gets
written,its up to the perp to come clean with a judge. 50
state legal or
not, if it wasn't off the production line then its
modified.
4) No seatbelt---57.00
5) Minor possession/open
container---Mandatory court date....250.00 fine
6) Loitering---75.00
7)
Criminal trespass---132.00(any one in a parking lot by the track is
subject
to this, if you own the parking lot and allow people to sit in it
and watch
then refer to #2)
8) Speeding---almost never used during these stings because
#1 is used
9) Fleeing or Evading a police officer---275.00 and you get towed.
If you
require two cars to catch you then refer to #2.....for putting the
other
officer in danger.
Any good insurance company will drop you in
a heart beat for getting #1 If
you kid is on your insurance and he used your
car.....you gonna get cut.
*** All fines are double in a construction
zone........where this took
place.......
a 200.00 track day sounds
very cheap now.........
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:27:48
-0500
From: "Brett Russell" <
brussell@powercom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Car won't start
I wanted to give the list an update on my
car...Friday night I was able to
get it running again. I had a guy from
a local Dodge dealer helping out and
after checking various things we decided
to try to start the engine by
popping the clutch down a hill. We did
this twice, but had no luck with it.
At that point we were pretty much
fearing the worst, as we'd pretty much
discounted the battery, alternator,
and starter. Just for the hell of it I
turned the key again and the car
started up!
So, we're thinking that either the starter had the hairs
lined up just right
or the engine stopped just at the right time during a
compression stroke
(dodge guy's idea, I'm not that smart), which made it
unable to turn over.
I guess we must have jarred the starter or turned the
engine just enough
during the popping of the clutch so that it starts
now. Pretty scary
thinking that this could theoretically happen at any
time.
Thanks to all who offered input and concern about the problem, it's
truly
reasurring to have this list as a resource and people who are willing
to
help out a stranger with their problems.
Brett
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:45:56
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT:Street Racing............A BIG NO NO
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
>
Well as some of you know a good friend of mine is a police officer. This
> past Saturday I got the opportunity to "ride along" with him on a
street
> racing crack down. It is truly the best way to speed around your
> neighborhood and get your fix (riding with our cities finest that
is).
Yes all well and fine to do it under the pretense of
'legality'.
I had a friend that was smashed to uncountable bits by a
speeding
police car. Of course, they colored it to make it look like her
fault -
drinking, not watching where she was going - to cover their
backs.
The fact that he was travelling well over 100mph on a city street
should have
been less an issue, apparently.
> I
> fear the
day my son (now 3) grows up and gets involved in this activity, It
> has
started me thinking about putting money away to get him involved in
>
"Track Sports" maybe go-carts or motto-cross or those real cool mini
>
dragsters. Anything to discourage him from doing this activity. It is
>
brutal to watch 45+ police cars swoop in and slap the cuffs around. There
> must have been 100 cars lined up....just like the movies. If you were
under
> 18 you were held at the scene until your parrents came and got
you...it was
> 3:30 a.m. and the got to watch they're car get rolled off
to the impound.
>
> The internet is a wonderful thing....many web
sites that are used to
> organize these events are monitored and even
set-up by cops. Many cops have
> those 2-way radios to see where the
set-up is taking place........Even a
> helicopter is used during this.
They use under cover cars (i.e..
> Volvo's,BMW's,you could imagine what
drug seized cars they have) it is
> truly an orchestrated work of art. I
think its up to the point of being
> unfair for those kids but then I
think of the speeders on my street and
> imagine my kids getting hit by
one of them and that unfair feeling goes
> away at the first thought of
it.
>
> 1) Recklace racing---You WILL get towed, and a manditory
court date with a
> 500.00 fine...to start.....it gets worse when the
judge gets a shot at you.
> (community service..etc.)
> 2) Recklace
endangerment---(being the starter or finisher of the set track
> or being
a spotter) same fines as above but not a moving violation. A
> spotter is
the guy with a radio to alert the racers of cops in the area.
> 3)
Modified exhaust---75.00...anything over 95Db.....well anything gets
>
written,its up to the perp to come clean with a judge. 50 state legal or
> not, if it wasn't off the production line then its modified.
> 4)
No seatbelt---57.00
> 5) Minor possession/open container---Mandatory court
date....250.00 fine
> 6) Loitering---75.00
> 7) Criminal
trespass---132.00(any one in a parking lot by the track is
> subject to
this, if you own the parking lot and allow people to sit in it
> and
watch then refer to #2)
> 8) Speeding---almost never used during these
stings because #1 is used
> 9) Fleeing or Evading a police
officer---275.00 and you get towed. If you
> require two cars to catch
you then refer to #2.....for putting the other
> officer in
danger.
They really have a corner on the market don't
they.
john
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:01:23
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OT:Street Racing............A BIG NO NO
that's $200 track
weekend and you get to drive in daylight, not at 2AM!
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Koch
[SMTP:eK2mfg@foxinternet.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 10:23
AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: OT:Street
Racing............A BIG NO NO
>
> Well as some of you know a good
friend of mine is a police officer. This
> past Saturday I got the
opportunity to "ride along" with him on a street
> racing crack down. It
is truly the best way to speed around your
> neighborhood and get your
fix (riding with our cities finest that is). I
> fear the day my son (now
3) grows up and gets involved in this
activity,
---------------snipped-------------------
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:06:59
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car won't start
Was the car doing anything when you turned
the key, like lights dimming like
a noise from the starter, or was it just
stone dead when you turn the key to
start?
Was the car cold or hot
when it refused to start?
I have had a similar thing happen with my '93
VR4 on a couple of occassions,
but only since I decided to replace an idiot
light on the instrument panel.
I suspect I loosened a connection somewhere
horsing around with the steering
column covers. It hasn't happened
again (in about two months).
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Brett Russell [SMTP:brussell@powercom.net]
>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 10:28 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Car won't start
>
> I wanted to give the list an
update on my car...Friday night I was able to
> get it running
again. I had a guy from a local Dodge dealer helping out
>
and
> after checking various things we decided to try to start the engine
by
> popping the clutch down a hill. We did this twice, but had no
luck with
> it.
> At that point we were pretty much fearing the
worst, as we'd pretty much
> discounted the battery, alternator, and
starter. Just for the hell of it
> I
> turned the key again
and the car started up!
>
> So, we're thinking that either the
starter had the hairs lined up just
> right
> or the engine stopped
just at the right time during a compression stroke
> (dodge guy's idea,
I'm not that smart), which made it unable to turn over.
> I guess we must
have jarred the starter or turned the engine just enough
> during the
popping of the clutch so that it starts now. Pretty scary
> thinking
that this could theoretically happen at any time.
>
> Thanks to all
who offered input and concern about the problem, it's truly
> reasurring
to have this list as a resource and people who are willing to
> help out a
stranger with their problems.
>
> Brett
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:57:12
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
OT:Street Racing............A BIG NO NO
Oh, the glories of the
internet. It is the one place where we get to take
whatever opinions
which flit through our heads and spread them as gospel,
all without taking
REALITY into account.
First of all, learn to spell "reckless".
Spell check is a wonderful thing.
Now, putting the laws aside, who can
tell me HONESTLY, that racing in a
deserted industrial park at 3 am is the
sort of thing that you should suffer
life-long consequences for? I say
this for several reasons.
Even in the great Motor City (Detroit) the only
drag strips are at a minimum
an hour away. They have limited hours,
overcrowded staging lanes and are
often rushing people down the track so they
can hold their latest "Jets of
Fire" or "Mustang showdown" event. NONE
of the local road courses (only one
within an hour drive, the others are on
the other side of the state) have
open track days.
I'll also be the
first to say that anyone driving recklessly through a
residential area
deserves stiff penalties. But if your young kids are out
at 3am and
anywhere near a street race, YOU deserve stiff penalties.
Now while you
were out riding with the local officers, did you get a chance
to actually see
how the races were being handled BEFORE it was broken up?
Were people racing
inches from the spectators or was everyone being kept
back? Was there
other traffic in the area that could accidentally stumble
onto the
strip? Did you actually WITNESS anyone driving drunk or
unsafely?
(other than the actual drag races)
My point is, these races
are often carried out in a relatively safe and
rational manner. I have yet to
read an article or hear a reliable account of
someone being injured or killed
at an organized street race. No street
racing is not a good idea, but
when there are few or no alternatives, what
do you expect? These fines
and crackdowns are EXCESSIVE and are a waste of
taxpayer money. I'm
glad to know the local authorities are spending their
time and our money
breaking up street races with helicopters and whole
fleets of cruisers.
Is it so stupid to think that they should be out
removing the REAL crime
element from our streets? Drug dealers,
prostitutes, rapists, thieves
and the like? I'm happy to know your son
won't be run over by a
speeding Camaro, but I'll feel sorry for you when you
find that marijuana in
his bedroom.
The blatant harassment by law enforcement and the media has
gotten out of
control since "that movie" came out. Rather than get at
the root of the
problem (creating acceptable alternatives to street racing)
they would
rather waste hundreds of thousands of dollars laying blame and
"cracking
down" on people who are frustrated and trying to find an outlet for
their
hobby.
As I said in the beginning, I don't agree with street
racing. But rather
than give these people criminal records, ridiculous
fines and the inability
to get insurance, lets find some safer alternatives
so that EVERYONE can
enjoy racing and the automotive culture.
Jeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Robert Koch
Sent: Monday,
July 30, 2001 11:23 AM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: OT:Street
Racing............A BIG NO NO
Well as some of you know a good friend
of mine is a police officer. This
past Saturday I got the opportunity to
"ride along" with him on a street
racing crack down. It is truly the best way
to speed around your
neighborhood and get your fix (riding with our cities
finest that is). I
fear the day my son (now 3) grows up and gets involved in
this activity, It
-----------------snipped----------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:59:22
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT 1991 3000GT VR4 for sale
Please respond privately, off
list with any comments/offers.
The car is stock except where
noted:
Pearl White
Polished Stock Wheels
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4
tires
Cross Drilled Rotors with Cadmium plated hats
Goodridge SS brake
lines
Porterfield R4S pads on all corners
Motul 600 brake fluids
Stock
NGK plugs gapped to .032 at 60K mileage
3000GT Car cover
Custom made
leather shift boot
1991 VR4 - 70,500 miles
All goodies in working
order including Active Aero,
Active exhaust, ECS, ASC,
2nd owner - all
service records, 60K service completed
Location: San Jose, CA
First
$10K takes it.
I'm selling this car to concentrate on my 95 Spyder
VR4.
- -Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:20:43
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OT:Street Racing............A BIG NO NO
Well Put... I
would like to add one point... When these people can't
get insurance, then
what do they do - they drive anyways... Then when
they rear end you, or
whatever - and run, or refuse to pay, you have to
take them to court, and
many months later, you finally get the money to
fix your car... Because
they don't have/ can't afford insurance because
they got caught drag
racing...
And one thing - the owner of said parking lot should never be
fined...
If anything - he's helping out by keeping the bystanders off the
street
where it really is dangerous...
Last I checked - so long as
there weren't any "no trespassing" signs,
then the owner has to file a
complaint, or press charges to have
anything done to the
"trespasser"
And when is the last time you saw someone get a ticket for
loitering...
Hell, we have loitering laws down here (South Padre Island -
Spring
Break capital of Texas) and no one ever gets tickets for
standing /
parking everywhere... the cops just tell us to move... and
when people
hang out in my parking lot (right on the strip), the cops
generally do
the " are you all supposed to be here" and when I say I own the
parking
lot, they say its ok and drive on....
Modified exhaust - Last
I checked - if its 50 state legal, then how can
you get a ticket for
it???
By the way - I have had one reckless driving ticket - in Missouri
it's
called C&I - Careless and Imprudent For screwing around in a
parking
lot, by myself at 3 A.M. Cop even said it was a dumb
thing because
there was no one around and it was in a parking lot, but his
supervisor
was with him... Regardless, one call to a lawyer, and it was
dropped...
Also, a friend of mine got one ~in my car~ for racing or
something...
he paid his, and insurance never even raised his
rates....
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Monday,
July 30, 2001 10:57 AM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: RE: Team3S: OT:Street
Racing............A BIG NO NO
Oh, the glories of the internet.
It is the one place where we get to
take
whatever opinions which flit
through our heads and spread them as
gospel,
all without taking REALITY
into account.
-----------------snip---------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:52:18
-0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
Good
morning.
Okay, I think I got this hotmail figured out so I don't mess
anything up.
I posted last week about trying to lower the air temp entering
our glorious
powerplants. Edgar wrote back to me and included some of the
past team
discussions about raising the hood up a bit on its hinges crating
a cowl
induction effect. We worried about water having its way with the
electrical
components. He drove in the rain and found no water under the
hood, but we
wondered about the car sitting in the rain.
I wanted to see
if I could make the magic happen without raising the hood
and possibly
ruining the smooth transition between the hood and fender. To
do this I just
pulled out the rear rubber hood seal. I took some
measurements with a
thermometer and electrical tape at key places around the
hood and ran a 6
mile street course until the police asked me to stop. As a
result, I didn't
complete the test as I wanted, but I did catch two
important
numbers.
With the seal on, the temp over the fenderwell on the K&N side
of my heat
shielding was 110'F. Without it the temp was 105'F. A drop of
five degrees
is nice. The temp on the other side of the heat shielding was
140'F with the
seal in place. (if you read my post about the difference that
shielding
makes- there's the number for proof) I didn't get to try again,
but I bet it
is at least 5'F cooler. Over the rear turbo I taped the
thermometer on the
cables that go across the firewall and recorded a temp of
135'F with the
seal in place. Without the seal, the temp dropped to 90'F, a
difference of
45'F.
Careful removal of that seal can be accomplished in
less time than my little
cousin can count to ten, and you can put it back if
you want later.
As far as water is concerned, I am not sure there is a threat
because of the
way the metal is shaped in that area- take a good look and
you'll see it. It
can't drip over where anything electrical is exposed. The
firewall has
sealed grommets to keep outside stuff out, so we should be
allright. If in
doubt, just lay the seal where it goes before any showers or
car washes.
But, there is an easy thing to do that can give you a sense of
accomplishment because you dropped underhood temps by 50' before the
commercials were over.
Zach "solo flight this afternoon"
Sauerman
94 Pearl Yellow Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:35:02
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: street racing....sorry I brought it up
I guess I really upset
this board, I have received many E-mails that
personally attack me as if I
was at fault or responsible for the actions of
the police. It has even gone
to the extent of being called several
undesirable names. If this board is
full of "street racers" then it is not
the place for me. I feel strongly
about putting it to an end for many
reasons, I will support and even
volunteer hours for an event on any
airstrip or "controlled" area. I was not
piping off to sound like I love
the TV show Cops nor do I feel Seattle
residents were treated fairly during
WTO and even chuckled at the story of
our mayor getting punched with a
megaphone for attempting to stop a protest
about police brutality.
I don't hold the same opinions as some of you so
we will agree to disagree
and leave it at that. I think this board is in
most part good and today I
was reminded why this was the second time I
registered to it. I love my car
and enjoy working on it to improve it and
greatly acknowledge the help and
information from this board.
I think
it should be stopped (steet racing), I encourage all who E-mailed
me to go
on a "ride-along" to see it for yourself and possibly get another
point of
view....not change it, just look at it from another side make your
own
conclusions after you see it from both sides.
In the defense of the
police officers I rode with........many...and I do
mean many were let go
with warnings and were given free passes to S.I.R.
(seattle int. raceway)
this crackdown was initiated by most if not all
businesses in the area who
pick up the tab for those free tickets to S.I.R.
and I can't recall one
parent giving any officer any kind of flack similar
to what I got
today.
I appologize to this board for waisting "space" with this topic
and will
keep my opinions off the board.
Regards, Bob K.
Bob
K.
93 R/T non-turbo
FIPK KV 85's
Bradi cross drilled and slotted
rotors
245/45 17's on some kick butt rim's
custom park plug cover plate
"STEALTH"
billet aluminum w/neoprene radiator brakets
Titainium dash vent
covers.......ahhhh those cracks are gone.
......in work---Billet replacement
for plastic wire harness for
injectors
---Titainium shifter
knob
---3.5 inch aluminum tube to replace stock intake tube...no
resonator hole
:)
---Vented front rotor dust covers
w/scoops
---Front and rear strut bars
If you are a street racer or support it, don't
bother to ask about getting
some of these products from me.
Enjoy the
day!!!!!!!!!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:50:58
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
This is
great info! My rear hood seal is trashed anyway!
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Zach Sauerman [SMTP:axemaddock@hotmail.com]
>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 11:52 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Rear Hood Seal Removal and You, Science Series #7
>
> Good morning.
> Okay, I think I got this hotmail figured out so I
don't mess anything up.
> I posted last week about trying to lower the air
temp entering our
> glorious
> powerplants. Edgar wrote back to me
and included some of the past team
> discussions about raising the hood
up a bit on its hinges crating a cowl
> induction effect. We worried
about water having its way with the
> electrical
> components. He
drove in the rain and found no water under the hood, but we
>
>
wondered about the car sitting in the rain.
> I wanted to see if I could
make the magic happen without raising the hood
> and possibly ruining the
smooth transition between the hood and fender. To
>
> do this I
just pulled out the rear rubber hood seal. I took some
> measurements
with a thermometer and electrical tape at key places around
> the
>
hood and ran a 6 mile street course until the police asked me to stop.
As
> a
> result, I didn't complete the test as I wanted, but I did
catch two
> important numbers.
> With the seal on, the temp over
the fenderwell on the K&N side of my heat
> shielding was 110'F.
Without it the temp was 105'F. A drop of five degrees
>
> is nice.
The temp on the other side of the heat shielding was 140'F with
> the
> seal in place. (if you read my post about the difference that shielding
> makes- there's the number for proof) I didn't get to try again, but I
bet
> it
> is at least 5'F cooler. Over the rear turbo I taped the
thermometer on the
>
> cables that go across the firewall and
recorded a temp of 135'F with the
> seal in place. Without the seal, the
temp dropped to 90'F, a difference of
>
> 45'F.
> Careful
removal of that seal can be accomplished in less time than my
> little
> cousin can count to ten, and you can put it back if you want
later.
> As far as water is concerned, I am not sure there is a threat
because of
> the
> way the metal is shaped in that area- take a
good look and you'll see it.
> It
> can't drip over where anything
electrical is exposed. The firewall has
> sealed grommets to keep outside
stuff out, so we should be allright. If in
>
> doubt, just lay the
seal where it goes before any showers or car washes.
> But, there is an
easy thing to do that can give you a sense of
> accomplishment because
you dropped underhood temps by 50' before the
> commercials were
over.
>
> Zach "solo flight this afternoon" Sauerman
> 94
Pearl Yellow Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:53:56
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Car won't start
Actually Brett, I have had the same problem you
describe, but it was on my
gmc truck. Either oil or gas would get into a
cylinder and the compression
would be so hard to overcome that the starter
could not overcome it. It
would actually cause the starter to click once or
twice and then do nothing.
I fixed it by putting in a new starter. I never
did get a definitive
diagnoses, but I am convinced the starter was weak -
either because some of
the coils were shorted or some type of internal
resistance had developed. If
your car experiences the same problem again, I
would change out the starter.
Good luck.
Andy
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:05:22
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: street racing....sorry I brought it up
> If this board is
full of "street racers" then it is not
> the place for me. I feel
strongly about putting it to
> an end for many reasons...
There
probably are a number of street racers here, but we aren't here for
that - we
are here to help each other with technical questions and ideas
about our
cars. I suggest we keep to that topic and forget anything that
doesn't
fit in that realm. How people use their cars doesn't matter here -
just
that we're all here to learn and help each other.
There are plenty of
other more appropriate places to debate politics and
specific forms of
racing.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:20:04
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question for Matt or anyone that can help!
I wrote a while back
about a hesitation problem with my 95 Vr-4 Spyder. I
still can't find my
problem and was thinking possibly the ECU. Matt: did you
have any problems
when you added a boost controller with the stock fuel
system? I spoke with
Brian @ GT Pro and he told me the Spyder had a
different ECU than the Hard
top ( possibly due to the governor @ 155mph?) I
thought maybe this had
something to do with it. Watching my air/fuel gauge
when the hesitation
starts and all of the lights come on and flash real fast
(autometer) I'm just
getting frustrated and though this may lead somewhere.
Thanks
Curtis
95 Vr-4 Spyder
Stillen Intake
Borla Exhaust
downpipe w/no
cats
UDP
Magnacore 10mm wires
NGK stock plugs gapped to .032
Stock
boost again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:32:34
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question for Matt or anyone that can help!
>>I wrote a
while back about a hesitation problem with my 95 Vr-4 Spyder. I
still can't
find my problem and was thinking possibly the ECU. Matt: did you
have any
problems when you added a boost controller with the stock fuel
system? I
spoke with Brian @ GT Pro and he told me the Spyder had a
different ECU than
the Hard top ( possibly due to the governor @ 155mph?) I
thought maybe this
had something to do with it. Watching my air/fuel gauge
when the hesitation
starts and all of the lights come on and flash real
fast>>
My 95
Spyder VR4 has stock fuel and 9B turbos with the AVC-R set for 1.0
bar.
No hesitation observed. I'm not aware of any differences in ECU,
but
haven't attempted speeds above 150mph.
Jim
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:42:22
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question for Matt or anyone that can help!
> I wrote a
while back about a hesitation problem with my 95
> Vr-4 Spyder. I still
can't find my problem and was thinking
> possibly the ECU. Matt: did you
have any problems when you
> added a boost controller with the stock fuel
system? I spoke
> with Brian @ GT Pro and he told me the Spyder had a
different
> ECU than the Hard top ( possibly due to the governor @
> 155mph?) I thought maybe this had something to do with it.
>
Watching my air/fuel gauge when the hesitation starts and all
> of the
lights come on and flash real fast
> (autometer) I'm just getting
frustrated and though this may
> lead somewhere.
No problems like
that on my car... I don't think the ECU is any different
for the Spyder
(although I could be wrong). My car has gone up to 170 MPH,
so I don't
think there's a speed limiter on it. It also ran fine with
similar mods
to yours (although I don't know what the "UDP" is). I gap my
plugs to
.030, but .032 should work just as well.
Things I'd check out would be
something along the lines of:
Honeycombs in MAF sensor are
undamaged
Pressurized side of intake has no leaks
BOV isn't leaking badly
and its clamps are secure, and vacuum line is
properly attached to the port
on top of the throttle body
Intercooler pipe clamps are secure
Maybe try
the stock plug wires if you still have 'em
Make sure the Magnecore wires are
pressed all the way down into the coils
(they like to pop up
sometimes)
Fuel pressure is good (fuel filter not blocked)
If all that
checks out, maybe try an A/F ratio meter to see if your mixture
is staying
rich enough with the higher boost. I haven't seen a VR4 that
wasn't
okay with stock turbos, but you never know.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
> Curtis
> 95 Vr-4 Spyder
> Stillen Intake
>
Borla Exhaust
> downpipe w/no cats
> UDP
> Magnacore 10mm
wires
> NGK stock plugs gapped to .032
> Stock boost
again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#562
***************************************