Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 25
2001 Volume 01 : Number
557
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:27:55 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
Why would you return DOT4 for
DOT3?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Winker
[SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:08
AM
> To: 'Merritt';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> I've did
my first and only event with Porterfield R4-S pads, everything
>
else
> stock. Learned afterwords that I should have changed fluid
before the
> event. They got quite hot. I plan on going back
this Sunday with new
> fluid, Motul if it arrives on time, Ford/Motorcraft
heavy duty DOT3 if
> not.
> This brings up a question, when I
requested heavy duty brake fluid from
> Ford
> dealers the first one
I went to gave me DOT4 which I returned, the second
> gave me Motorcraft
hd DOT3. When I asked he told me Ford stopped making
> their
own. It was pretty obvious neither one knew too much about what
>
they
> were talking. Anyone know the story?
>
>
Sean
> '91 R/T TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24,
2001 22:12
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
>
> OK,
I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
>
That means they won't clear a set of 94 calipers.
> Back to Square
One.
>
> Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with
1st Gen brakes?
> If so, what are you using for
pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it working?
>
> Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:17:53
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen brakes redux
I posted on this list and the
only responses I received were to not put the
DOT4 in my car. On closer
inspection the bottle said it was for the Ford
Focus only and since it cost
the same or more than Motul (10.95 pint) I
decided to go with Motul which,
however, hasn't arrived yet. :( The DOT3 is
'just in case.'
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001
08:28
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
Why would you return DOT4
for DOT3?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Winker
[SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:08
AM
> To: 'Merritt';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> I've did
my first and only event with Porterfield R4-S pads, everything
>
else
> stock. Learned afterwords that I should have changed fluid
before the
> event. They got quite hot. I plan on going back
this Sunday with new
> fluid, Motul if it arrives on time, Ford/Motorcraft
heavy duty DOT3 if
> not.
> This brings up a question, when I
requested heavy duty brake fluid from
> Ford
> dealers the first one
I went to gave me DOT4 which I returned, the second
> gave me Motorcraft
hd DOT3. When I asked he told me Ford stopped making
> their
own. It was pretty obvious neither one knew too much about what
>
they
> were talking. Anyone know the story?
>
>
Sean
> '91 R/T TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24,
2001 22:12
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
>
> OK,
I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
>
That means they won't clear a set of 94 calipers.
> Back to Square
One.
>
> Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with
1st Gen brakes?
> If so, what are you using for
pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it working?
>
> Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:22:35
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Second gear issue
What oil are you using? If you don't
have Redline in it, give it a try, may
buy you some time plus it's cheaper
than a tranny or synchro.
Sean
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Mark Creekmore [mailto:mcreekmore@usa.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 25, 2001 05:12
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Second gear issue
Hi all,
While I was at the DSM
Shootout this past Friday, I had a problem shifting
into second gear. I get a
bad grinding noise. After letting the car sit for
a few hours (while I
watched the rest of the races) I was able to drive it
home and use second
gear. The problem only occurs at high rpms. I tried
adjusting the clutch out
a little, in case it wasn't fully engaging, but
that didn't help.
So,
is it time for a new trans?
Mark Creekmore
92' Stealth R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:54:36
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
I thought I recall the DOT5
being the bad stuff. But nevertheless, you have
discovered Motul and
you will be delighted!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean
Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001
8:18 AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> I posted
on this list and the only responses I received were to not put
>
the
> DOT4 in my car. On closer inspection the bottle said it was
for the Ford
> Focus only and since it cost the same or more than Motul
(10.95 pint) I
> decided to go with Motul which, however, hasn't arrived
yet. :( The DOT3
> is
> 'just in case.'
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25,
2001 08:28
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
>
>
Why would you return DOT4 for DOT3?
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Sean Winker
[SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001
8:08 AM
> > To: 'Merritt';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
> >
> >
I've did my first and only event with Porterfield R4-S pads, everything
>
> else
> > stock. Learned afterwords that I should have
changed fluid before the
> > event. They got quite hot. I
plan on going back this Sunday with new
> > fluid, Motul if it arrives
on time, Ford/Motorcraft heavy duty DOT3 if
> > not.
> > This
brings up a question, when I requested heavy duty brake fluid from
> >
Ford
> > dealers the first one I went to gave me DOT4 which I returned,
the
> second
> > gave me Motorcraft hd DOT3. When I asked
he told me Ford stopped making
> > their own. It was pretty
obvious neither one knew too much about what
> > they
> > were
talking. Anyone know the story?
> >
> > Sean
>
> '91 R/T TT
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday,
July 24, 2001 22:12
> > To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
> >
> >
> > OK, I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's
91
> Strealth.
> > That means they won't clear a set of 94
calipers.
> > Back to Square One.
> >
> > Has anyone
been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> > If so,
what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> > How's it
working?
> >
> > Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:00:21
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4
This is the polished Intake Pipe
Kit. As far as emissions, it wouldn't
surprise me if it was changed, as
every year they stick more crap on there.
But my problem is that the
pipes D&N showed on his web page have fittings on
the front and rear
pipe, and the ones I got only had the fitting on the
front pipe.
I can
send you a picture, separate from the list, as I don't want to clutter
up the
list.
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:03:20
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4
Well, now I am a little more
informed. Either Don doesn't make the reap
pipe with the fitting
anymore, or he doesn't want to, because when I asked
him about it, he told me
the rear fitting was only for vacuum, and most
people disconnect it
anyway. Then when I told him I didn't want to
disconnect anything yet,
because the car is covered under the extended
warranty, and I have to leave
the emissions to pass the strict state
inspection, he told me to add the
fitting myself.
A pretty poor answer if you ask me.
Anthony
Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:06:00
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake dust shield temperatures?
Does anyone know what temperature
the brake dust shield is subjected to
under extreme
braking?
Thanks,
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:11:43
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4
I see now.
Don is usually
very helpful and diligent with his customers. He knows our
cars very well.
Anyhow, It shouldn't be that difficult to add the fitting (drill the
intake
and install the fitting).
I am sure Don won't mine if you
want to return your kit.
Good luck
Victor
- -----Original
Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:03 AM
To: Team 3S List Submissions;
stealthman92@yahoo.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: intake question on VR-4
Well, now I am a little more
informed. Either Don doesn't make the reap
pipe with the fitting
anymore, or he doesn't want to, because when I asked
him about it, he told me
the rear fitting was only for vacuum, and most
people disconnect it
anyway. Then when I told him I didn't want to
disconnect anything yet,
because the car is covered under the extended
warranty, and I have to leave
the emissions to pass the strict state
inspection, he told me to add the
fitting myself.
A pretty poor answer if you ask me.
Anthony
Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:30:22
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Brake dust shield temperatures?
Pads can reach
1400F
I guess the dust shield is somewhat less than that.
Rich
At
11:06 AM 7/25/01 -0400, Michael D. Crose wrote:
>Does anyone know what
temperature the brake dust shield is subjected to
>under extreme
braking?
>
>Thanks,
>Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:45:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Autometer Tachometer
For the first gen (OBDI) ECM - DOHC
only!
According to APex'i, RPM can be read from pin 101 (power
transistor,
aka engine ignition signal).
According to the '92-'96
Mitsu manual, for 1994-95 models the engine
ignition signal is pin 58; for
1996+ it is pin 51.
Pin IDs at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
cody <
overclck@starband.net>
wrote:
> Where do I wire the RPM input wire for the aftermarket tachometer
I
> am
> installing?
>
> It says to the coil or
ignition output, but I haven't a clue
> what/where
> that is.
I have searched through the Manuals, but I can only find
> the
>
output that is used for testing the cars RPM when setting basic
>
ignition
> timing. Is this what I need, or is there another wire at
the ECU
> that I
> can use? (it's a 1st gen)
>
>
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:58:00
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
"Has anyone been running a
1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
If so, what are you using for
pads/rotors/cooling?
How's it working?"
I ran 1st gen completely stock
in a one day event and they basically cooked.
Next time I had Stillen cross
drilled rotors and R-4S pads with Motul 600
and Goodridge lines. Everything
was new on event #2 and worked great. After
a year of street driving I
returned to the track for a 2 day event having
checked that there was still
adequate pad thickness. I had spare pads in
the pits, but didn't put
them on and everything worked fine.
Pads had white edges on after event
inspection. Rotor cross drilled holes
were plugged up with spent brake
material. Both front and rear brakes had
this appearance. No
cooling employed.
Track action was at Thunderhill where I was hitting top
speeds of 120 on the
full 15 turn course. Roughly 5 20 minute sessions
in the day. Most braking
is done from less than 100 here. If you
are driving a faster course and
need to brake from 120 all day long I think
the 1st gen setup would not be
adequate.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
**
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:15:16
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
oh yeah, Rich, I forgot about
the Goodridge ss brake lines on mine, too.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Watkins, Jim [SMTP:jim.watkins@terayon.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 10:58 AM
> To: 'Merritt';
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> "Has
anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> If
so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it
working?"
>
> I ran 1st gen completely stock in a one day event and
they basically
> cooked.
> Next time I had Stillen cross drilled
rotors and R-4S pads with Motul 600
> and Goodridge lines. Everything was
new on event #2 and worked great.
> After
> a year of street driving
I returned to the track for a 2 day event having
> checked that there was
still adequate pad thickness. I had spare pads in
> the pits, but
didn't put them on and everything worked fine.
> Pads had white edges on
after event inspection. Rotor cross drilled holes
> were plugged up
with spent brake material. Both front and rear brakes had
> this
appearance. No cooling employed.
>
> Track action was at
Thunderhill where I was hitting top speeds of 120 on
> the
> full 15
turn course. Roughly 5 20 minute sessions in the day. Most
>
braking
> is done from less than 100 here. If you are driving a
faster course and
> need to brake from 120 all day long I think the 1st
gen setup would not be
> adequate.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 12:05:07
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
In the mesh, I
straightened it out already, but still the same.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> In the
MAS or in the mesh ?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:41:11
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
It was worth a
try. I think judging from the other messages, you should do
the
compression test. You can do it on the front three with very
little
trouble. If you get good results on these three, you will still
have to
move to the back three to know if you are out of the woods, but if
one of
the front three is bad, you will know rapidly.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Bulaon
[SMTP:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:05
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Roger
Gerl
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS
question.
>
> In the mesh, I straightened it out already, but still
the same.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> >
In the MAS or in the mesh ?
> >
> > Roger
> >
93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 25 Jul 2001 10:01:58
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re - D&N Performance
Does the polished intake pipes from
D&N give any performance increase over the stock plastic tubes?
I
would guess that their main purpose if for looks, they do look nice.
The
stock tubes are accordioned so the smooth pipes might offer a little less
restriction. Are the pipe diameters any bigger?
Link listed
http://66.24.81.222/intake.htm
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altvista.comFind
the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:07:50
-0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <
kail@colubs.com>
Subject: Team3S: More
Transer Case Issues
For those of you who relieved my fears by verifying
the existence of an
overflow vent on the transfer case... thank you.
I'm glad to know that I
probably didn't blow any seals.
Last night I
crawled under the car to drain out any excess transfer case oil
and get the
level back down to normal. (As a side note, one part of the
service
manual I have said .29 quarts... but there were also multiple
references to
.63 quarts. Probably a mistype, but enough to screw me up.)
Anyway, to
add to my bad luck, the fill plug is stripped and won't come out.
Right
now I am driving the car on total trust... that there is plenty of oil
in
there and that only the excess came out of the vent. But I have no
way
to tell for sure.
Does anyone have a "tip" for getting the
stripped plug out? I'd like to do
this myself, but if there are no easy
answers, then I guess I'm making a
trip to the tranny
shop.
Thanks.
Kai
'92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:14:36
-0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <
kail@colubs.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Second gear issue
Forgive my ignorance... but is that a viable option for
him? I know Mitsu
shops won't tear into Getrag trannies. Some
companies, like Kormex, do
rebuilds, but use primarily used parts (although I
believe Kormex is now
making new syncros... but I don't know if they'll sell
them separately).
Don't plan on replacing my tranny (again) any time
soon, but I do like to
keep up on the fix
options.
Thanks,
Kai
'92 Stealth TT
w/ a used Kormex
tranny
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSent:
Wednesday, July 25, 2001 3:17 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Second gear issue
> So, is it time for a new
trans?
Sounds to me like it's just time to replace your 2nd gear
syncro.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 12:31:46
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Second gear issue
a competant transmission shop will rebuild
the tranny, if they can figure
out how to get the parts. the
trick seems to be identifying a competant
transmission shop!
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Kai Langendoen
[SMTP:kail@colubs.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 12:15 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Second gear issue
>
> Forgive my ignorance...
but is that a viable option for him? I know Mitsu
> shops won't tear
into Getrag trannies. Some companies, like Kormex, do
> rebuilds,
but use primarily used parts (although I believe Kormex is now
> making
new syncros... but I don't know if they'll sell them separately).
>
> Don't plan on replacing my tranny (again) any time soon, but I do like
to
> keep up on the fix options.
>
> Thanks,
>
Kai
> '92 Stealth TT
> w/ a used Kormex tranny
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com> Sent:
Wednesday, July 25, 2001 3:17 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Second gear issue
>
>
> > So, is it
time for a new trans?
>
> Sounds to me like it's just time to
replace your 2nd gear syncro.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 19:58:59
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Second gear issue
I recently bought a NEW 2nd gear synchro
blocking ring from Kormex. Picture
and price at
http://www.team3s.com/~matthews/getrag.html.
-
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:12:09
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Darren,
(better late than
never?)
First would be lowering springs or coilovers, with heavy bias towards
coilovers if you can afford it. I have Eibachs, but wish I had gone with a
coilover system for camber and wheel/tire size flexibility.
Second would be cool air or forced air system. I have installed both a
12v portable leaf blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with
very good effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15 Buttonwillow, 1:44 Willow
Springs).
I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do not think it
buys that much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.
Try your
stock brakes before BigReds on the non-turbo.
I put on Kymer drilled rotors
and Stillen Metal matrix pads my first time out with Dot4 fluid
change.
Thought I was going to completely burn up my brakes, but they
just needed a 'real' breakin at the track. Lots of brake smell, but I just eased
way off whenever it was apparent. Next session I put cooling hoses on. No brake
smell, so I tried w/o and still ok ever since.
I leave them on for
street and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions plus street, rotors are just
going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and over a year of driving.
This setup, with heavy bleed every other track session or so, has
performed very well. By demonstartion I have run up on just about every bumper I
can think of going into turns(ie, brake later with confidence) and never have
any fade even on hot days. I sort of sneak up on the brakes rather than stab
them, and then ramp up to max pedal quickly. Always try to brake straight line
only.
Kurt 96 3K
NT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Technically it depends on what you
are doing (drag race, open track,
touring, show car, etc.).
Regardless
it should probably be the air filter (K&N).
For drag cars it will be
a front-mounted intercooler (since you don't have
turbos which would call for
a boost controller).
For open track road racing it should be Big Red
brakes.
For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on the
A/C unit.
For show car it should be car detailing every week.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 being setup for the open track
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Brady
Sent: Tuesday, July 17,
2001 10:36 PM
What is the first mod I should put on a stock es with
99k?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:42:14
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More Transer Case Issues
Try your best _6-point_ socket or wrench
on it.. if no luck don't strip it any
furthur.
Get (if you don't have)
any Easy-Out set from Sears or the like. Drill a small
hole into but
not through the plug, and put the Easy-Out in your drill. Drill
it in
there the best you can, get one wrench on the drain plug and another on
the
Easy-Out and go to it. That's how I've done quite a few stuck bolts,
but
then again they didn't have fluid on the other side.
BOL.
Ken
Kai Langendoen wrote:
> For those of you who
relieved my fears by verifying the existence of an
> overflow vent on the
transfer case... thank you. I'm glad to know that I
> probably
didn't blow any seals.
>
> Last night I crawled under the car to
drain out any excess transfer case oil
> and get the level back down to
normal. (As a side note, one part of the
> service manual I have
said .29 quarts... but there were also multiple
> references to .63
quarts. Probably a mistype, but enough to screw me up.)
> Anyway, to
add to my bad luck, the fill plug is stripped and won't come
out.
>
> Right now I am driving the car on total trust... that there
is plenty of oil
> in there and that only the excess came out of the
vent. But I have no way
> to tell for sure.
>
> Does
anyone have a "tip" for getting the stripped plug out? I'd like to
do
> this myself, but if there are no easy answers, then I guess I'm
making a
> trip to the tranny shop.
>
>
Thanks.
>
> Kai
> '92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:19:53
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More Transer Case Issues
> Get (if you don't have) any
Easy-Out set from Sears or the like.
> Drill a small hole into but not
through the plug, and put the Easy
> in your drill. Drill it in
there the best you can, get one wrench on
just a note to Kai, if you try
this procedure you'll need to take the
transfer case off the car (not that
difficult) before you'll be able to
apply a drill bit to the fill plug.
There is barely enough space to get
a wrench in there to get the fill plug
off it to start with :-) Though I'm
sure you've noticed this by
now.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:50:34
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Kurt,
If you get 6-7 track
sessions out of Metal Matrix pads, you must be talking
about drag strip track
sessions.
One DE weekend is composed of approximately 8 each 20 min track
sessions. I
never had a set of metal matrix pads last more than three
weekends. If you
are sneaking up on the brakes, you are braking wrong
for a road course.
I cannot believe you have so little pad wear, unless
Stillen sent you a
completely different pad formulation than I used for three
years.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel,
Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:12
PM
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
> Darren,
>
(better late than never?)
> First would be lowering springs or coilovers,
with heavy bias towards
> coilovers if you can afford it. I have
Eibachs, but wish I had gone with
> a coilover system for camber and
wheel/tire size flexibility.
>
> Second would be
cool air or forced air system. I have installed both a 12v
> portable leaf
blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with
> very good
effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15 Buttonwillow, 1:44
> Willow
Springs).
>
> I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do
not think it buys that
> much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.
>
> Try your stock brakes before BigReds on the non-turbo.
>
I put on Kymer drilled rotors and Stillen Metal matrix pads my first
time
> out with Dot4 fluid change.
>
> Thought I was going to
completely burn up my brakes, but they just needed
> a 'real' breakin at
the track. Lots of brake smell, but I just eased way
> off whenever it was
apparent. Next session I put cooling hoses on. No
> brake smell, so I
tried w/o and still ok ever since.
>
> I leave them on for
street and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions plus
> street, rotors are
just going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and
> over a year of
driving.
>
> This setup, with heavy bleed every other track
session or so, has
> performed very well. By demonstartion I have run up
on just about every
> bumper I can think of going into turns(ie, brake
later with confidence)
> and never have any fade even on hot days. I sort
of sneak up on the brakes
> rather than stab them, and then ramp up to max
pedal quickly. Always try
> to brake straight line
only.
>
> Kurt 96
3K NT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
>
> Technically
it depends on what you are doing (drag race, open track,
> touring, show
car, etc.).
>
> Regardless it should probably be the air filter
(K&N).
>
> For drag cars it will be a front-mounted intercooler
(since you don't have
> turbos which would call for a boost
controller).
> For open track road racing it should be Big Red
brakes.
> For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on
the A/C
> unit.
> For show car it should be car detailing every
week.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 being setup for the open
track
>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Brady
> Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:36 PM
>
> What is the first mod I should
put on a stock es with 99k?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:55:57
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
Ok, I did the
compression test and the results seem to be fine.
The manual states a
standard value of 156psi and a limit value of 115psi.
All the cylinders
peaked at about 150psi with the exception of two cylinders
that peaked at
about 145psi.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but since the limit value
is 115psi then my
compression is good since none of the cylinders have
compression that low.
Thanks for the input guys keep em
coming....
Also, if this shows that compression is not my problem, I can
then safely
assume broked pistons is not my problem right? If so,
although it's good
news I'm still back at square one, I don't know what's
causing my hesitation
problem.
Regards,
Michael
Bulaon
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Willis, Charles
E.
>Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 12:41 PM
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
>It was
worth a try. I think judging from the other messages, you should
do
>the compression test. You can do it on the front three with very
little
>trouble. If you get good results on these three, you will
still have to
>move to the back three to know if you are out of the woods,
but if one of
>the front three is bad, you will know
rapidly.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:04:38
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Chuck,
Maybe they are different, but
yes, they last 6-7 weekends of 6-8 30 minute track sessions,
and I have not
seen any NT times within 5 seconds of me. If I am braking wrong, so be
it.
The Kymer rotors are drilled and chamfered and cadmium treated.
I
was surprised at how well they hold up at the track too. I think Poterfield
would prrobably give better braking, but don't think I would use them on the
street because I've heard they need quite a bit of warmup.
When I say
sneak up, I mean I do not stab the pedal, I ease onto it, then quickly get up to
almost max pressue, then squeeze out the last braking needed. I try to time this
so I am at max braking and forward weight shift exactly at, but not before
turn-in. Fully loaded at the correct turn-in point, the turn has less or no
understeer. I always try to follow the 'late apex as early as possible'
formula.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001
12:51 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Kurt,
If you get 6-7 track
sessions out of Metal Matrix pads, you must be talking
about drag strip track
sessions.
One DE weekend is composed of approximately 8 each 20 min track
sessions. I
never had a set of metal matrix pads last more than three
weekends. If you
are sneaking up on the brakes, you are braking wrong
for a road course.
I cannot believe you have so little pad wear, unless
Stillen sent you a
completely different pad formulation than I used for three
years.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel,
Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:12
PM
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
> Darren,
>
(better late than never?)
> First would be lowering springs or coilovers,
with heavy bias towards
> coilovers if you can afford it. I have
Eibachs, but wish I had gone with
> a coilover system for camber and
wheel/tire size flexibility.
>
> Second would be
cool air or forced air system. I have installed both a 12v
> portable leaf
blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with
> very good
effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15 Buttonwillow, 1:44
> Willow
Springs).
>
> I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do
not think it buys that
> much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.
>
> Try your stock brakes before BigReds on the non-turbo.
>
I put on Kymer drilled rotors and Stillen Metal matrix pads my first
time
> out with Dot4 fluid change.
>
> Thought I was going to
completely burn up my brakes, but they just needed
> a 'real' breakin at
the track. Lots of brake smell, but I just eased way
> off whenever it was
apparent. Next session I put cooling hoses on. No
> brake smell, so I
tried w/o and still ok ever since.
>
> I leave them on for
street and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions plus
> street, rotors are
just going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and
> over a year of
driving.
>
> This setup, with heavy bleed every other track
session or so, has
> performed very well. By demonstartion I have run up
on just about every
> bumper I can think of going into turns(ie, brake
later with confidence)
> and never have any fade even on hot days. I sort
of sneak up on the brakes
> rather than stab them, and then ramp up to max
pedal quickly. Always try
> to brake straight line
only.
>
> Kurt 96
3K NT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
>
> Technically
it depends on what you are doing (drag race, open track,
> touring, show
car, etc.).
>
> Regardless it should probably be the air filter
(K&N).
>
> For drag cars it will be a front-mounted intercooler
(since you don't have
> turbos which would call for a boost
controller).
> For open track road racing it should be Big Red
brakes.
> For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on
the A/C
> unit.
> For show car it should be car detailing every
week.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 being setup for the open
track
>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Brady
> Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:36 PM
>
> What is the first mod I should
put on a stock es with 99k?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:25:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Unbelievable! People on this list
were slamming me because they are wearing
out a new set of Metal Matrix pads
in one weekend! Are you running helium
in your car?
Your car is
not a VR4? And the pads on the NA are smaller than the VR4,
right?
What kind of tires are you running on the track?
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel, Kurt
[SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 3:05 PM
>
To: Willis, Charles E.;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
> Chuck,
>
> Maybe they are different, but yes, they last 6-7 weekends of 6-8 30
minute
> track sessions,
> and I have not seen any NT times within 5
seconds of me. If I am braking
> wrong, so be it.
> The Kymer rotors
are drilled and chamfered and cadmium treated.
>
> I was surprised
at how well they hold up at the track too. I think
> Poterfield would
prrobably give better braking, but don't think I would
> use them on the
street because I've heard they need quite a bit of warmup.
>
> When
I say sneak up, I mean I do not stab the pedal, I ease onto it, then
>
quickly get up to almost max pressue, then squeeze out the last braking
>
needed. I try to time this so I am at max braking and forward weight
shift
> exactly at, but not before turn-in. Fully loaded at the correct
turn-in
> point, the turn has less or no understeer. I always try to
follow the
> 'late apex as early as possible' formula.
>
>
Kurt
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25,
2001 12:51 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
>
>
Kurt,
>
> If you get 6-7 track sessions out of Metal Matrix pads,
you must be
> talking
> about drag strip track sessions.
>
> One DE weekend is composed of approximately 8 each 20 min track
sessions.
> I
> never had a set of metal matrix pads last more than
three weekends. If
> you
> are sneaking up on the brakes, you
are braking wrong for a road course.
>
> I cannot believe you have
so little pad wear, unless Stillen sent you a
> completely different pad
formulation than I used for three years.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Zobel, Kurt
[SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:12
PM
> > To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
> >
> >
Darren,
> > (better late than never?)
> > First would be
lowering springs or coilovers, with heavy bias towards
> > coilovers if
you can afford it. I have Eibachs, but wish I had gone
>
with
> > a coilover system for camber and wheel/tire size
flexibility.
> >
> > Second would be cool
air or forced air system. I have installed both a
> 12v
> >
portable leaf blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with
>
> very good effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15
Buttonwillow,
> 1:44
> > Willow Springs).
> >
>
> I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do not think it buys
that
> > much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.
>
>
> > Try your stock brakes before BigReds on the
non-turbo.
> > I put on Kymer drilled rotors and Stillen Metal matrix
pads my first
> time
> > out with Dot4 fluid change.
> >
> > Thought I was going to completely burn up my brakes, but they
just
> needed
> > a 'real' breakin at the track. Lots of brake
smell, but I just eased way
> > off whenever it was apparent. Next
session I put cooling hoses on. No
> > brake smell, so I tried w/o and
still ok ever since.
> >
> > I leave them on for street
and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions
> plus
> > street,
rotors are just going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and
> >
over a year of driving.
> >
> > This setup, with heavy bleed
every other track session or so, has
> > performed very well. By
demonstartion I have run up on just about every
> > bumper I can think
of going into turns(ie, brake later with confidence)
> > and never have
any fade even on hot days. I sort of sneak up on the
> brakes
> >
rather than stab them, and then ramp up to max pedal quickly. Always try
>
> to brake straight line
only.
> >
>
> Kurt 96 3K NT
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37 PM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
> >
> >
>
> Technically it depends on what you are doing (drag race, open
track,
> > touring, show car, etc.).
> >
> >
Regardless it should probably be the air filter (K&N).
> >
>
> For drag cars it will be a front-mounted intercooler (since you
don't
> have
> > turbos which would call for a boost
controller).
> > For open track road racing it should be Big Red
brakes.
> > For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge
on the A/C
> > unit.
> > For show car it should be car
detailing every week.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4
being setup for the open track
> >
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > Of Brady
> >
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:36 PM
> >
> > What is the
first mod I should put on a stock es with 99k?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:31:04
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem
> Ok, I did the compression test
and the results seem
> to be fine. All the cylinders peaked at about
150psi
> with the exception of two cylinders that peaked at
> about
145psi.
> Also, if this shows that compression is not my
>
problem, I can then safely assume broked pistons is
> not my problem
right?
Unfortunately, not necessarily does good compression mean the
pistons are
fine. On my car, the upper ring land broke from the piston
and bounced
around in the cylinder even though compression tested
great. Only later did
it destroy the compression ring and then
compression was low, even though
the piston was broken the whole
time.
Not saying it is the piston, but not saying that it isn't. If
you have
access to a borescope you might want to poke around in the
cylinders,
looking carefully around the edges of the piston crown for
cracks/breaks.
How did the plugs look when you pulled them? Correct
colors on all plugs,
or some carbonized etc.?
I guess next steps would
be to try to figure out if the ignition system is
working properly. If
your car is older (didn't catch what year your car is)
you might want to
check to see if any of the capacitors are leaking in your
ECU also.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 17:12:55
-0400
From: "Boris" <
BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Mas Flow Sensor
Hello everybody. I guess my question is, is the
MAS flow sensor to the GSX
Eclipse the same as our
cars?
Thanks
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 17:26:17
-0400
From: "Boris" <
BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts for sale
Hello everybody I have some parts for sale. If
interested please contact me
privately.
HKS Super AFR Brand new
$275.00 Dollars. I was going to be used as a piggy
back to my VPC, butt I
wound up going with a Super AFC instead. The HKS
Super AFR is the new
replacement for the GCC, and is much easer to tune.
I also have four
stock Brake Rotors from my 1991 RT/Twin
Turbo
Thanks,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 17:40:11
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem
Plugs looked normal......
How
do I go about checking the capacitors in the ECU? Would it throw
a
check engine light?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:31 PM
To:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
'
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem
> Ok, I did the
compression test and the results seem
> to be fine. All the
cylinders peaked at about 150psi
> with the exception of two cylinders
that peaked at
> about 145psi.
> Also, if this shows that
compression is not my
> problem, I can then safely assume broked pistons
is
> not my problem right?
Unfortunately, not necessarily does good
compression mean the pistons are
fine. On my car, the upper ring land
broke from the piston and bounced
around in the cylinder even though
compression tested great. Only later did
it destroy the compression
ring and then compression was low, even though
the piston was broken the
whole time.
Not saying it is the piston, but not saying that it
isn't. If you have
access to a borescope you might want to poke around
in the cylinders,
looking carefully around the edges of the piston crown for
cracks/breaks.
How did the plugs look when you pulled them? Correct
colors on all plugs,
or some carbonized etc.?
I guess next steps would
be to try to figure out if the ignition system is
working properly. If
your car is older (didn't catch what year your car is)
you might want to
check to see if any of the capacitors are leaking in your
ECU also.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:50:08
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
Rich,
As far as I'm
concerned, it depends on how competitive your daughter want's
to be. My
first gen brakes with R4S's and slotted Porterfields seem to
work
sufficiently at Putnam Park. The Porterfields havn't warped a bit,
and the
pads still have a good 50-60% after 1 weekend. As long as I
back out of the
throttle going down the main straight and don't get too
agressive on the
rest of the track, fade is not too bad. Needless to
say, this has a
detrimental effect on lap times. Using conservative
braking, I'm able to
run lap times with the fast C class drivers. I
suspect that to be
competitve in the B class I will need the Big Red
upgrade.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 24, 2001 10:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes
redux
> OK, I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my
daughter's 91 Strealth.
> That means they won't clear a set of 94
calipers.
> Back to Square One.
>
> Has anyone been running a
1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> If so, what are you using
for pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it working?
>
> Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:16:51
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re - D&N Performance
Actually, they do give a performance
increase... one well known 3S gentleman claimed as much as 50% more airflow,
however it would
probably be safer to realize about 25% more. Unless
you have high flow throttle body, ported/polished heads, high flow
exhaust,
etc. And, more air = more fuel = more power!
Yes,
performance increase for sure!
Ken
John Monnin wrote:
>
Does the polished intake pipes from D&N give any performance increase over
the stock plastic tubes?
> I would guess that their main purpose if for
looks, they do look nice.
>
> The stock tubes are accordioned so the
smooth pipes might offer a little less restriction. Are the pipe diameters
any bigger?
> Link listed
>
>
http://66.24.81.222/intake.htm>
>
John Monnin
>
jkmonnin@altvista.com>
>
Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
>
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#557
***************************************