Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Wednesday, July 25 2001   Volume 01 : Number 557




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:27:55 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux

Why would you return DOT4 for DOT3?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:08 AM
> To: 'Merritt'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> I've did my first and only event with Porterfield R4-S pads, everything
> else
> stock.  Learned afterwords that I should have changed fluid before the
> event.  They got quite hot.  I plan on going back this Sunday with new
> fluid, Motul if it arrives on time, Ford/Motorcraft heavy duty DOT3 if
> not.
> This brings up a question, when I requested heavy duty brake fluid from
> Ford
> dealers the first one I went to gave me DOT4 which I returned, the second
> gave me Motorcraft hd DOT3.  When I asked he told me Ford stopped making
> their own.  It was pretty obvious neither one knew too much about what
> they
> were talking.  Anyone know the story?
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 22:12
> To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
>
> OK, I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
> That means they won't clear a set of 94 calipers.
> Back to Square One.
>
> Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> If so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it working?
>
> Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:17:53 -0500
From: Sean Winker <sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen brakes redux

I posted on this list and the only responses I received were to not put the
DOT4 in my car.  On closer inspection the bottle said it was for the Ford
Focus only and since it cost the same or more than Motul (10.95 pint) I
decided to go with Motul which, however, hasn't arrived yet. :(  The DOT3 is
'just in case.'

- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 08:28
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux


Why would you return DOT4 for DOT3?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:08 AM
> To: 'Merritt'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> I've did my first and only event with Porterfield R4-S pads, everything
> else
> stock.  Learned afterwords that I should have changed fluid before the
> event.  They got quite hot.  I plan on going back this Sunday with new
> fluid, Motul if it arrives on time, Ford/Motorcraft heavy duty DOT3 if
> not.
> This brings up a question, when I requested heavy duty brake fluid from
> Ford
> dealers the first one I went to gave me DOT4 which I returned, the second
> gave me Motorcraft hd DOT3.  When I asked he told me Ford stopped making
> their own.  It was pretty obvious neither one knew too much about what
> they
> were talking.  Anyone know the story?
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 22:12
> To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
>
> OK, I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
> That means they won't clear a set of 94 calipers.
> Back to Square One.
>
> Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> If so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it working?
>
> Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:22:35 -0500
From: Sean Winker <sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Second gear issue

What oil are you using?  If you don't have Redline in it, give it a try, may
buy you some time plus it's cheaper than a tranny or synchro. 

Sean

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Creekmore [mailto:mcreekmore@usa.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 05:12
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Second gear issue


Hi all,

While I was at the DSM Shootout this past Friday, I had a problem shifting
into second gear. I get a bad grinding noise. After letting the car sit for
a few hours (while I watched the rest of the races) I was able to drive it
home and use second gear. The problem only occurs at high rpms. I tried
adjusting the clutch out a little, in case it wasn't fully engaging, but
that didn't help.

So, is it time for a new trans?

Mark Creekmore
92' Stealth R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:54:36 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux

I thought I recall the DOT5 being the bad stuff.  But nevertheless, you have
discovered Motul and you will be delighted!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:18 AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> I posted on this list and the only responses I received were to not put
> the
> DOT4 in my car.  On closer inspection the bottle said it was for the Ford
> Focus only and since it cost the same or more than Motul (10.95 pint) I
> decided to go with Motul which, however, hasn't arrived yet. :(  The DOT3
> is
> 'just in case.'
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 08:28
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
>
> Why would you return DOT4 for DOT3?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Sean Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 8:08 AM
> > To: 'Merritt'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
> >
> > I've did my first and only event with Porterfield R4-S pads, everything
> > else
> > stock.  Learned afterwords that I should have changed fluid before the
> > event.  They got quite hot.  I plan on going back this Sunday with new
> > fluid, Motul if it arrives on time, Ford/Motorcraft heavy duty DOT3 if
> > not.
> > This brings up a question, when I requested heavy duty brake fluid from
> > Ford
> > dealers the first one I went to gave me DOT4 which I returned, the
> second
> > gave me Motorcraft hd DOT3.  When I asked he told me Ford stopped making
> > their own.  It was pretty obvious neither one knew too much about what
> > they
> > were talking.  Anyone know the story?
> >
> > Sean
> > '91 R/T TT
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 22:12
> > To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
> >
> >
> > OK, I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91
> Strealth.
> > That means they won't clear a set of 94 calipers.
> > Back to Square One.
> >
> > Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> > If so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> > How's it working?
> >
> > Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:00:21 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4

This is the polished Intake Pipe Kit.  As far as emissions, it wouldn't
surprise me if it was changed, as every year they stick more crap on there.

But my problem is that the pipes D&N showed on his web page have fittings on
the front and rear pipe, and the ones I got only had the fitting on the
front pipe.

I can send you a picture, separate from the list, as I don't want to clutter
up the list.

Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:03:20 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4

Well, now I am a little more informed.  Either Don doesn't make the reap
pipe with the fitting anymore, or he doesn't want to, because when I asked
him about it, he told me the rear fitting was only for vacuum, and most
people disconnect it anyway.  Then when I told him I didn't want to
disconnect anything yet, because the car is covered under the extended
warranty, and I have to leave the emissions to pass the strict state
inspection, he told me to add the fitting myself.

A pretty poor answer if you ask me.

Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:06:00 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake dust shield temperatures?

Does anyone know what temperature the brake dust shield is subjected to
under extreme braking?

Thanks,
Michael

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:11:43 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L  CIV" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4

I see now.

Don is usually very helpful and diligent with his customers. He knows our
cars very well.

Anyhow, It shouldn't be that difficult to add the fitting (drill the intake
and install the fitting). 
I am sure Don won't mine if you want to return your kit.

Good luck
Victor

- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:03 AM
To: Team 3S List Submissions; stealthman92@yahoo.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4


Well, now I am a little more informed.  Either Don doesn't make the reap
pipe with the fitting anymore, or he doesn't want to, because when I asked
him about it, he told me the rear fitting was only for vacuum, and most
people disconnect it anyway.  Then when I told him I didn't want to
disconnect anything yet, because the car is covered under the extended
warranty, and I have to leave the emissions to pass the strict state
inspection, he told me to add the fitting myself.

A pretty poor answer if you ask me.

Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:30:22 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Brake dust shield temperatures?

Pads can reach 1400F
I guess the dust shield is somewhat less than that.
Rich

At 11:06 AM 7/25/01 -0400, Michael D. Crose wrote:
>Does anyone know what temperature the brake dust shield is subjected to
>under extreme braking?
>
>Thanks,
>Michael

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:45:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Autometer Tachometer

For the first gen (OBDI) ECM - DOHC only!
According to APex'i, RPM can be read from pin 101 (power transistor,
aka engine ignition signal).

According to the '92-'96 Mitsu manual, for 1994-95 models the engine
ignition signal is pin 58; for 1996+ it is pin 51.

Pin IDs at my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htm

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- cody <overclck@starband.net> wrote:
> Where do I wire the RPM input wire for the aftermarket tachometer I
> am
> installing?
>
> It says to the coil or ignition output, but I haven't a clue
> what/where
> that is.  I have searched through the Manuals, but I can only find
> the
> output that is used for testing the cars RPM when setting basic
> ignition
> timing.  Is this what I need, or is there another wire at the ECU
> that I
> can use?  (it's a 1st gen)
>
> -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:58:00 -0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux

"Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
If so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
How's it working?"

I ran 1st gen completely stock in a one day event and they basically cooked.
Next time I had Stillen cross drilled rotors and R-4S pads with Motul 600
and Goodridge lines. Everything was new on event #2 and worked great.  After
a year of street driving I returned to the track for a 2 day event having
checked that there was still adequate pad thickness.  I had spare pads in
the pits, but didn't put them on and everything worked fine.
Pads had white edges on after event inspection.  Rotor cross drilled holes
were plugged up with spent brake material.  Both front and rear brakes had
this appearance.  No cooling employed.

Track action was at Thunderhill where I was hitting top speeds of 120 on the
full 15 turn course.  Roughly 5 20 minute sessions in the day.  Most braking
is done from less than 100 here.  If you are driving a faster course and
need to brake from 120 all day long I think the 1st gen setup would not be
adequate.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  **

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:15:16 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux

oh yeah, Rich, I forgot about the Goodridge ss brake lines on mine, too.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Watkins, Jim [SMTP:jim.watkins@terayon.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 10:58 AM
> To: 'Merritt'; 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> "Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> If so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it working?"
>
> I ran 1st gen completely stock in a one day event and they basically
> cooked.
> Next time I had Stillen cross drilled rotors and R-4S pads with Motul 600
> and Goodridge lines. Everything was new on event #2 and worked great.
> After
> a year of street driving I returned to the track for a 2 day event having
> checked that there was still adequate pad thickness.  I had spare pads in
> the pits, but didn't put them on and everything worked fine.
> Pads had white edges on after event inspection.  Rotor cross drilled holes
> were plugged up with spent brake material.  Both front and rear brakes had
> this appearance.  No cooling employed.
>
> Track action was at Thunderhill where I was hitting top speeds of 120 on
> the
> full 15 turn course.  Roughly 5 20 minute sessions in the day.  Most
> braking
> is done from less than 100 here.  If you are driving a faster course and
> need to brake from 120 all day long I think the 1st gen setup would not be
> adequate.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 12:05:07 -0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.

In the mesh, I straightened it out already, but still the same.


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> In the MAS or in the mesh ?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:41:11 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.

It was worth a try.  I think judging from the other messages, you should do
the compression test.  You can do it on the front three with very little
trouble.  If you get good results on these three, you will still have to
move to the back three to know if you are out of the woods, but if one of
the front three is bad, you will know rapidly.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Bulaon [SMTP:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 11:05 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Roger Gerl
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
>
> In the mesh, I straightened it out already, but still the same.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> > In the MAS or in the mesh ?
> >
> > Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
> > www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jul 2001 10:01:58 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re - D&N Performance

Does the polished intake pipes from D&N give any performance increase over the stock plastic tubes? 
I would guess that their main purpose if for looks, they do look nice.

The stock tubes are accordioned so the smooth pipes might offer a little less restriction.  Are the pipe diameters any bigger?
Link listed
 
http://66.24.81.222/intake.htm

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altvista.com


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:07:50 -0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <kail@colubs.com>
Subject: Team3S: More Transer Case Issues

For those of you who relieved my fears by verifying the existence of an
overflow vent on the transfer case... thank you.  I'm glad to know that I
probably didn't blow any seals.

Last night I crawled under the car to drain out any excess transfer case oil
and get the level back down to normal.  (As a side note, one part of the
service manual I have said .29 quarts... but there were also multiple
references to .63 quarts.  Probably a mistype, but enough to screw me up.)
Anyway, to add to my bad luck, the fill plug is stripped and won't come out.

Right now I am driving the car on total trust... that there is plenty of oil
in there and that only the excess came out of the vent.  But I have no way
to tell for sure.

Does anyone have a "tip" for getting the stripped plug out?  I'd like to do
this myself, but if there are no easy answers, then I guess I'm making a
trip to the tranny shop.

Thanks.

Kai
'92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:14:36 -0700
From: "Kai Langendoen" <kail@colubs.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Second gear issue

Forgive my ignorance... but is that a viable option for him?  I know Mitsu
shops won't tear into Getrag trannies.  Some companies, like Kormex, do
rebuilds, but use primarily used parts (although I believe Kormex is now
making new syncros... but I don't know if they'll sell them separately).

Don't plan on replacing my tranny (again) any time soon, but I do like to
keep up on the fix options.

Thanks,
Kai
'92 Stealth TT
w/ a used Kormex tranny

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 3:17 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Second gear issue


> So, is it time for a new trans?

Sounds to me like it's just time to replace your 2nd gear syncro.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 12:31:46 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Second gear issue

a competant transmission shop will rebuild the tranny, if they can figure
out how to get the parts.   the trick seems to be identifying a competant
transmission shop!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kai Langendoen [SMTP:kail@colubs.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 12:15 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Second gear issue
>
> Forgive my ignorance... but is that a viable option for him?  I know Mitsu
> shops won't tear into Getrag trannies.  Some companies, like Kormex, do
> rebuilds, but use primarily used parts (although I believe Kormex is now
> making new syncros... but I don't know if they'll sell them separately).
>
> Don't plan on replacing my tranny (again) any time soon, but I do like to
> keep up on the fix options.
>
> Thanks,
> Kai
> '92 Stealth TT
> w/ a used Kormex tranny
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 3:17 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Second gear issue
>
>
> > So, is it time for a new trans?
>
> Sounds to me like it's just time to replace your 2nd gear syncro.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 19:58:59 +0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Second gear issue

I recently bought a NEW 2nd gear synchro blocking ring from Kormex.  Picture
and price at http://www.team3s.com/~matthews/getrag.html.

- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:12:09 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?

Darren,
(better late than never?)
First would be lowering springs or coilovers, with heavy bias towards coilovers if you can afford it.  I have Eibachs, but wish I had gone with a coilover system for camber and wheel/tire size flexibility.   

Second would be cool air or forced air system. I have installed both a 12v portable leaf blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with very good effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15 Buttonwillow, 1:44 Willow Springs).

I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do not think it buys that much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.

Try your stock brakes before BigReds on the non-turbo.
I put on Kymer drilled rotors and Stillen Metal matrix pads my first time out with Dot4 fluid change.

Thought I was going to completely burn up my brakes, but they just needed a 'real' breakin at the track. Lots of brake smell, but I just eased way off whenever it was apparent. Next session I put cooling hoses on. No brake smell, so I tried w/o and still ok ever since.
 
I leave them on for street and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions plus street, rotors are just going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and over a year of driving.

This setup, with heavy bleed every other track session or so, has performed very well. By demonstartion I have run up on just about every bumper I can think of going into turns(ie, brake later with confidence) and never have any fade even on hot days. I sort of sneak up on the brakes rather than stab them, and then ramp up to max pedal quickly. Always try to brake straight line only.        

Kurt 96 3K NT

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?


Technically it depends on what you are doing (drag race, open track,
touring, show car, etc.).

Regardless it should probably be the air filter (K&N).

For drag cars it will be a front-mounted intercooler (since you don't have
turbos which would call for a boost controller).
For open track road racing it should be Big Red brakes.
For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on the A/C unit.
For show car it should be car detailing every week.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 being setup for the open track
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Brady
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:36 PM

What is the first mod I should put on a stock es with 99k?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:42:14 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Transer Case Issues

Try your best _6-point_ socket or wrench on it.. if no luck don't strip it any
furthur.

Get (if you don't have) any Easy-Out set from Sears or the like.  Drill a small
hole into but not through the plug, and put the Easy-Out in your drill.  Drill
it in there the best you can, get one wrench on the drain plug and another on
the Easy-Out and go to it.  That's how I've done quite a few stuck bolts, but
then again they didn't have fluid on the other side.  BOL.

Ken

Kai Langendoen wrote:

> For those of you who relieved my fears by verifying the existence of an
> overflow vent on the transfer case... thank you.  I'm glad to know that I
> probably didn't blow any seals.
>
> Last night I crawled under the car to drain out any excess transfer case oil
> and get the level back down to normal.  (As a side note, one part of the
> service manual I have said .29 quarts... but there were also multiple
> references to .63 quarts.  Probably a mistype, but enough to screw me up.)
> Anyway, to add to my bad luck, the fill plug is stripped and won't come out.
>
> Right now I am driving the car on total trust... that there is plenty of oil
> in there and that only the excess came out of the vent.  But I have no way
> to tell for sure.
>
> Does anyone have a "tip" for getting the stripped plug out?  I'd like to do
> this myself, but if there are no easy answers, then I guess I'm making a
> trip to the tranny shop.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Kai
> '92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:19:53 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Transer Case Issues

> Get (if you don't have) any Easy-Out set from Sears or the like.
> Drill a small hole into but not through the plug, and put the Easy
> in your drill.  Drill it in there the best you can, get one wrench on

just a note to Kai, if you try this procedure you'll need to take the
transfer case off the car (not that difficult) before you'll be able to
apply a drill bit to the fill plug. There is barely enough space to get
a wrench in there to get the fill plug off it to start with :-) Though I'm
sure you've noticed this by now.

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 14:50:34 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?

Kurt,

If you get 6-7 track sessions out of Metal Matrix pads, you must be talking
about drag strip track sessions.

One DE weekend is composed of approximately 8 each 20 min track sessions.  I
never had a set of metal matrix pads last more than three weekends.  If you
are sneaking up on the brakes, you are braking wrong for a road course.

I cannot believe you have so little pad wear, unless Stillen sent you a
completely different pad formulation than I used for three years.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:12 PM
> To: dschilberg@pobox.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
> Darren,
> (better late than never?)
> First would be lowering springs or coilovers, with heavy bias towards
> coilovers if you can afford it.  I have Eibachs, but wish I had gone with
> a coilover system for camber and wheel/tire size flexibility.   
>
> Second would be cool air or forced air system. I have installed both a 12v
> portable leaf blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with
> very good effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15 Buttonwillow, 1:44
> Willow Springs).
>
> I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do not think it buys that
> much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.
>
> Try your stock brakes before BigReds on the non-turbo.
> I put on Kymer drilled rotors and Stillen Metal matrix pads my first time
> out with Dot4 fluid change.
>
> Thought I was going to completely burn up my brakes, but they just needed
> a 'real' breakin at the track. Lots of brake smell, but I just eased way
> off whenever it was apparent. Next session I put cooling hoses on. No
> brake smell, so I tried w/o and still ok ever since.

> I leave them on for street and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions plus
> street, rotors are just going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and
> over a year of driving.
>
> This setup, with heavy bleed every other track session or so, has
> performed very well. By demonstartion I have run up on just about every
> bumper I can think of going into turns(ie, brake later with confidence)
> and never have any fade even on hot days. I sort of sneak up on the brakes
> rather than stab them, and then ramp up to max pedal quickly. Always try
> to brake straight line only.        
>
> Kurt 96 3K NT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
>
> Technically it depends on what you are doing (drag race, open track,
> touring, show car, etc.).
>
> Regardless it should probably be the air filter (K&N).
>
> For drag cars it will be a front-mounted intercooler (since you don't have
> turbos which would call for a boost controller).
> For open track road racing it should be Big Red brakes.
> For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on the A/C
> unit.
> For show car it should be car detailing every week.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 being setup for the open track
> www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Brady
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:36 PM
>
> What is the first mod I should put on a stock es with 99k?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:55:57 -0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.

Ok, I did the compression test and the results seem to be fine.

The manual states a standard value of 156psi and a limit value of 115psi.

All the cylinders peaked at about 150psi with the exception of two cylinders
that peaked at about 145psi.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but since the limit value is 115psi then my
compression is good since none of the cylinders have compression that low.

Thanks for the input guys keep em coming....

Also, if this shows that compression is not my problem, I can then safely
assume broked pistons is not my problem right?  If so, although it's good
news I'm still back at square one, I don't know what's causing my hesitation
problem.

Regards,
Michael Bulaon


>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Willis, Charles E.
>Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 12:41 PM
>To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.


>It was worth a try.  I think judging from the other messages, you should do
>the compression test.  You can do it on the front three with very little
>trouble.  If you get good results on these three, you will still have to
>move to the back three to know if you are out of the woods, but if one of
>the front three is bad, you will know rapidly.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:04:38 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?

Chuck,

Maybe they are different, but yes, they last 6-7 weekends of 6-8 30 minute track sessions,
and I have not seen any NT times within 5 seconds of me. If I am braking wrong, so be it.
The Kymer rotors are drilled and chamfered and cadmium treated.

I was surprised at how well they hold up at the track too. I think Poterfield would prrobably give better braking, but don't think I would use them on the street because I've heard they need quite a bit of warmup.

When I say sneak up, I mean I do not stab the pedal, I ease onto it, then quickly get up to almost max pressue, then squeeze out the last braking needed. I try to time this so I am at max braking and forward weight shift exactly at, but not before turn-in. Fully loaded at the correct turn-in point, the turn has less or no understeer. I always try to follow the 'late apex as early as possible' formula.

Kurt      

- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 12:51 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?


Kurt,

If you get 6-7 track sessions out of Metal Matrix pads, you must be talking
about drag strip track sessions.

One DE weekend is composed of approximately 8 each 20 min track sessions.  I
never had a set of metal matrix pads last more than three weekends.  If you
are sneaking up on the brakes, you are braking wrong for a road course.

I cannot believe you have so little pad wear, unless Stillen sent you a
completely different pad formulation than I used for three years.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:12 PM
> To: dschilberg@pobox.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
> Darren,
> (better late than never?)
> First would be lowering springs or coilovers, with heavy bias towards
> coilovers if you can afford it.  I have Eibachs, but wish I had gone with
> a coilover system for camber and wheel/tire size flexibility.   
>
> Second would be cool air or forced air system. I have installed both a 12v
> portable leaf blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with
> very good effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15 Buttonwillow, 1:44
> Willow Springs).
>
> I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do not think it buys that
> much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.
>
> Try your stock brakes before BigReds on the non-turbo.
> I put on Kymer drilled rotors and Stillen Metal matrix pads my first time
> out with Dot4 fluid change.
>
> Thought I was going to completely burn up my brakes, but they just needed
> a 'real' breakin at the track. Lots of brake smell, but I just eased way
> off whenever it was apparent. Next session I put cooling hoses on. No
> brake smell, so I tried w/o and still ok ever since.

> I leave them on for street and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions plus
> street, rotors are just going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and
> over a year of driving.
>
> This setup, with heavy bleed every other track session or so, has
> performed very well. By demonstartion I have run up on just about every
> bumper I can think of going into turns(ie, brake later with confidence)
> and never have any fade even on hot days. I sort of sneak up on the brakes
> rather than stab them, and then ramp up to max pedal quickly. Always try
> to brake straight line only.        
>
> Kurt 96 3K NT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
>
> Technically it depends on what you are doing (drag race, open track,
> touring, show car, etc.).
>
> Regardless it should probably be the air filter (K&N).
>
> For drag cars it will be a front-mounted intercooler (since you don't have
> turbos which would call for a boost controller).
> For open track road racing it should be Big Red brakes.
> For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on the A/C
> unit.
> For show car it should be car detailing every week.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 being setup for the open track
> www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Brady
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:36 PM
>
> What is the first mod I should put on a stock es with 99k?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:25:32 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?

Unbelievable!  People on this list were slamming me because they are wearing
out a new set of Metal Matrix pads in one weekend!  Are you running helium
in your car?

Your car is not a VR4?  And the pads on the NA are smaller than the VR4,
right?

What kind of tires are you running on the track?

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 3:05 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
> Chuck,
>
> Maybe they are different, but yes, they last 6-7 weekends of 6-8 30 minute
> track sessions,
> and I have not seen any NT times within 5 seconds of me. If I am braking
> wrong, so be it.
> The Kymer rotors are drilled and chamfered and cadmium treated.
>
> I was surprised at how well they hold up at the track too. I think
> Poterfield would prrobably give better braking, but don't think I would
> use them on the street because I've heard they need quite a bit of warmup.
>
> When I say sneak up, I mean I do not stab the pedal, I ease onto it, then
> quickly get up to almost max pressue, then squeeze out the last braking
> needed. I try to time this so I am at max braking and forward weight shift
> exactly at, but not before turn-in. Fully loaded at the correct turn-in
> point, the turn has less or no understeer. I always try to follow the
> 'late apex as early as possible' formula.
>
> Kurt      
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 12:51 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
>
>
> Kurt,
>
> If you get 6-7 track sessions out of Metal Matrix pads, you must be
> talking
> about drag strip track sessions.
>
> One DE weekend is composed of approximately 8 each 20 min track sessions.
> I
> never had a set of metal matrix pads last more than three weekends.  If
> you
> are sneaking up on the brakes, you are braking wrong for a road course.
>
> I cannot believe you have so little pad wear, unless Stillen sent you a
> completely different pad formulation than I used for three years.
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 1:12 PM
> > To: dschilberg@pobox.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
> >
> > Darren,
> > (better late than never?)
> > First would be lowering springs or coilovers, with heavy bias towards
> > coilovers if you can afford it.  I have Eibachs, but wish I had gone
> with
> > a coilover system for camber and wheel/tire size flexibility.   
> >
> > Second would be cool air or forced air system. I have installed both a
> 12v
> > portable leaf blower($60+tubing) and a marine 4 inch bilge fan($20) with
> > very good effect both in qtr mile(14.8) and track(2:15 Buttonwillow,
> 1:44
> > Willow Springs).
> >
> > I do have a 3 inch cat and custom exhaust, but do not think it buys that
> > much unless you go with nitrous or supercharging.
> >
> > Try your stock brakes before BigReds on the non-turbo.
> > I put on Kymer drilled rotors and Stillen Metal matrix pads my first
> time
> > out with Dot4 fluid change.
> >
> > Thought I was going to completely burn up my brakes, but they just
> needed
> > a 'real' breakin at the track. Lots of brake smell, but I just eased way
> > off whenever it was apparent. Next session I put cooling hoses on. No
> > brake smell, so I tried w/o and still ok ever since.
> > 
> > I leave them on for street and track, pads lasted 6-7 track sessions
> plus
> > street, rotors are just going bad a little, 1/3 thru second pad set and
> > over a year of driving.
> >
> > This setup, with heavy bleed every other track session or so, has
> > performed very well. By demonstartion I have run up on just about every
> > bumper I can think of going into turns(ie, brake later with confidence)
> > and never have any fade even on hot days. I sort of sneak up on the
> brakes
> > rather than stab them, and then ramp up to max pedal quickly. Always try
> > to brake straight line only.        
> >
> > Kurt 96 3K NT
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 8:37 PM
> > To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
> >
> >
> > Technically it depends on what you are doing (drag race, open track,
> > touring, show car, etc.).
> >
> > Regardless it should probably be the air filter (K&N).
> >
> > For drag cars it will be a front-mounted intercooler (since you don't
> have
> > turbos which would call for a boost controller).
> > For open track road racing it should be Big Red brakes.
> > For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on the A/C
> > unit.
> > For show car it should be car detailing every week.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4 being setup for the open track
> > www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > Of Brady
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:36 PM
> >
> > What is the first mod I should put on a stock es with 99k?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:31:04 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem

> Ok, I did the compression test and the results seem
> to be fine.  All the cylinders peaked at about 150psi
> with the exception of two cylinders that peaked at
> about 145psi.

> Also, if this shows that compression is not my
> problem, I can then safely assume broked pistons is
> not my problem right?

Unfortunately, not necessarily does good compression mean the pistons are
fine.  On my car, the upper ring land broke from the piston and bounced
around in the cylinder even though compression tested great.  Only later did
it destroy the compression ring and then compression was low, even though
the piston was broken the whole time.

Not saying it is the piston, but not saying that it isn't.  If you have
access to a borescope you might want to poke around in the cylinders,
looking carefully around the edges of the piston crown for cracks/breaks.

How did the plugs look when you pulled them?  Correct colors on all plugs,
or some carbonized etc.?

I guess next steps would be to try to figure out if the ignition system is
working properly.  If your car is older (didn't catch what year your car is)
you might want to check to see if any of the capacitors are leaking in your
ECU also.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 17:12:55 -0400
From: "Boris" <BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Mas Flow Sensor

Hello everybody. I guess my question is, is the MAS flow sensor to the GSX
Eclipse the same as our cars?
Thanks
Boris

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 17:26:17 -0400
From: "Boris" <BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale

Hello everybody I have some parts for sale. If interested please contact me
privately.


HKS Super AFR Brand new $275.00 Dollars. I was going to be used as a piggy
back to my VPC, butt I wound up going with a Super AFC instead. The HKS
Super AFR is the new replacement for the GCC, and is much easer to tune.

I also have four stock Brake Rotors from my 1991 RT/Twin Turbo

Thanks,
Boris

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 17:40:11 -0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem

Plugs looked normal......

How do I go about checking the capacitors in the ECU?  Would it throw a
check engine light?


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 4:31 PM
To: 'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st '
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem


> Ok, I did the compression test and the results seem
> to be fine.  All the cylinders peaked at about 150psi
> with the exception of two cylinders that peaked at
> about 145psi.

> Also, if this shows that compression is not my
> problem, I can then safely assume broked pistons is
> not my problem right?

Unfortunately, not necessarily does good compression mean the pistons are
fine.  On my car, the upper ring land broke from the piston and bounced
around in the cylinder even though compression tested great.  Only later did
it destroy the compression ring and then compression was low, even though
the piston was broken the whole time.

Not saying it is the piston, but not saying that it isn't.  If you have
access to a borescope you might want to poke around in the cylinders,
looking carefully around the edges of the piston crown for cracks/breaks.

How did the plugs look when you pulled them?  Correct colors on all plugs,
or some carbonized etc.?

I guess next steps would be to try to figure out if the ignition system is
working properly.  If your car is older (didn't catch what year your car is)
you might want to check to see if any of the capacitors are leaking in your
ECU also.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:50:08 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux

Rich,

As far as I'm concerned, it depends on how competitive your daughter want's
to be.  My first gen brakes with R4S's and slotted Porterfields seem to work
sufficiently at Putnam Park.  The Porterfields havn't warped a bit, and the
pads still have a good 50-60% after 1 weekend.  As long as I back out of the
throttle going down the main straight and don't get too agressive on the
rest of the track, fade is not too bad.  Needless to say, this has a
detrimental effect on lap times.  Using conservative braking, I'm able to
run lap times with the fast C class drivers.  I suspect that to be
competitve in the B class I will need the Big Red upgrade.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: <3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 10:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux


> OK, I've figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
> That means they won't clear a set of 94 calipers.
> Back to Square One.
>
> Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
> If so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's it working?
>
> Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:16:51 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re - D&N Performance

Actually, they do give a performance increase... one well known 3S gentleman claimed as much as 50% more airflow, however it would
probably be safer to realize about 25% more.  Unless you have high flow throttle body, ported/polished heads, high flow exhaust,
etc.  And, more air = more fuel = more power!

Yes, performance increase for sure!

Ken

John Monnin wrote:

> Does the polished intake pipes from D&N give any performance increase over the stock plastic tubes?
> I would guess that their main purpose if for looks, they do look nice.
>
> The stock tubes are accordioned so the smooth pipes might offer a little less restriction.  Are the pipe diameters any bigger?
> Link listed
>
> http://66.24.81.222/intake.htm
>
> John Monnin
> jkmonnin@altvista.com
>
> Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
> http://www.shopping.altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #557
***************************************