Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 25
2001 Volume 01 : Number
556
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:28:48 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
I didn't see a list of your
other mods. Do you have an aftermarket BOV
venting to the
atmosphere? The type of problem you describe can be seen
with an
incorrectly adjusted BOV.
Oskar
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 24, 2001 9:55 AM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS:
MAS question.
> Yesterday I posted a problem I was having with
hesitation that I thought
was
> being caused by a 1/2 inch rip in the
honeycomb of the MAS on my 95 VR-4.
>
> Let me better explain what
happened as I think my problem may be more than
> just the
rip.
>
> The problem first occurred on Sunday 7/22/01. I was
driving the car,
going
> pretty strong. I was in fourth gear, let
off the gas a little and rpm's
> dropped. I then gassed it again and the
car spiked to 1.22bar according to
> my peak readings on my Blitz DSBC. At
this point I felt what appeared to
be
> some sort of stumbling or
hesitation which I assume is fuel cut. I
> immediately let off the
gas.
>
> I continued driving and noticed very odd characteristics
with the car.
The
> car would hesitate on light throttle under 4000
rpm's, however if I got on
> the gas, it would hesitate and buck slightly
then be ok and pull strong
till
> redline.
>
> When I got
to my destination, I got the chance to inspect the front three
> plugs
which looked ok. I also decreased the gap from .35 to .32. The
car
> cooled down some by the time I put the plugs back in and test drove
the
car.
>
> At first the car seemed fine, but the hesitation
came back. It seemed to
> comeback after the car had warmed up.
However the characteristics were
the
> same. Severe hesitation under 4k
under light throttle and relatively low
> boost. Upon WOT, slight
hesitation till 4k, car runs strong afterwards
till
>
redline.
>
> Yesterday, I then noticed there was a 1/2 hole in the
bottom part of the
> honeycomb of the MAS. I tried to fix it as much
as I could. The hole is
> gone, but that part of the honeycomb is
still distorted. I took it for a
> test drive and the problem was
still the same.
>
>
> So far all I know is that the problem
isn't apparent till the engine is
> fully warmed up. Also the
problem isn't as severe under WOT above 4k RPM,
> and very severe under
light throttle under 4k RPM.
>
>
> Hey guys any input is
greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 11:36:40
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS
question.
Sorry,
Greddy BOV (closed)
DR500 Turbo's
550cc
Injectors
HKS AFR(similar to Apex AFC)
K&N
ATR Downpipe
Gutted
Cats.
You say it sounds like a problem with an incorrectly adjusted
BOV. Please
explain more. Too loose or too hard. I recall
recently playing with the BOV
adjustment not too long before I started
noticing the problem.
> I didn't see a list of your other mods.
Do you have an aftermarket BOV
> venting to the atmosphere? The type
of problem you describe can be seen
> with an incorrectly adjusted
BOV.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 11:11:18
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
Is the Greddy venting to
atmosphere? I am no expert on this, but I know
that BOVs venting to
atmosphere can cause this type of stumble. In your
case I'm not sure if
it is a symptom of the BOV being incorrectly tuned, or
if your symptoms occur
merely because of the BOV venting your metered air to
atmosphere.
As
for your BOV settings I'd venture to guess that it might be adjusted
too
loose if you detected these symptoms after messing with it.
However, be
careful not to adjust it too tight as it will not open when it
should.
After I installed an HKS BOV in my car I noticed negligible
hesitation
around 4000 RPM while under light throttle. It is only an
issue at this
particular RPM range. I was not able to eliminate this
completely, but In
my case it is not an annoyance.
Oskar
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
"Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 24, 2001 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem
WAS: MAS question.
> Sorry,
>
> Greddy BOV
(closed)
> DR500 Turbo's
> 550cc Injectors
> HKS AFR(similar
to Apex AFC)
> K&N
> ATR Downpipe
> Gutted
Cats.
>
> You say it sounds like a problem with an incorrectly
adjusted BOV. Please
> explain more. Too loose or too hard. I
recall recently playing with the
BOV
> adjustment not too long before I
started noticing the problem.
>
> > I didn't see a list of your
other mods. Do you have an aftermarket BOV
> > venting to the
atmosphere? The type of problem you describe can be seen
> > with
an incorrectly adjusted BOV.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 12:30:20
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
My Greddy BOV
doesn't vent into the atmosphere, so I don't think this could
be my problem
then.
Thanks for the input though.
> Is the Greddy venting
to atmosphere? I am no expert on this, but I know
> that BOVs
venting to atmosphere can cause this type of stumble. In your
> case
I'm not sure if it is a symptom of the BOV being incorrectly
tuned,
or
> if your symptoms occur merely because of the BOV venting
your metered air
to
> atmosphere.
>
> As for your BOV
settings I'd venture to guess that it might be adjusted
too
> loose if
you detected these symptoms after messing with it. However, be
>
careful not to adjust it too tight as it will not open when it
should.
>
> After I installed an HKS BOV in my car I noticed
negligible hesitation
> around 4000 RPM while under light throttle.
It is only an issue at this
> particular RPM range. I was not able
to eliminate this completely, but In
> my case it is not an
annoyance.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 18:50:22
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
At 12:30 24.07.2001
-0400, Michael Bulaon wrote:
>My Greddy BOV doesn't vent into the
atmosphere, so I don't think this could
>be my problem
then.
>
>Thanks for the input though.
It's always a good idea
to turn it harder with two turns just to see what
happens
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 17:17:49
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
>Hey guys any
input is greatly appreciated.
Ok, just food for ideas :
- - BOV
(or stock PBF) problem
- - measure the voltage at the pump as the fuel pump
relay #2 could have
oxidated contacts. Remove it and clean the
contacts.
- - compression test
- - strange behavior of the wastegate
actuators
- - bad connection to the coil posts or plugs (worser when
hot)
Hope this helps for some ideas :)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 12:49:00
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM
Shootout Thanks from Dave Buschur
Here is a copy of Dave Buschur's letter
to the DSM Digest; like I said, he
really liked having us there and was very
impressed with the 3S people and
cars!
Jack
Tertadian
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:09:27
EDT
From: The4Bangr <
The4Bangr@aol.com>
Subject:
Shootout....what a great weekend....
Message-ID: <#45>
Hi
guys!
Well the shootout has come and gone for the 9th time. It is
so hectic for
us
that while it is happening we can't wait for it to slow
back down. Then on
Sunday when everyone is leaving it always makes me
feel down to see so many
nice people leave. I can't wait for next years
event already.
This year was by far the largest turnout ever. The
best actual race car
count we had was the year before last at I think,
194. That was counting
guys that sneaked up and raced without
paying. This year we had an honest
221 cars that paid at the gate, that
was counting the actual tech cards.
The
amount of cars was unbelievable,
the pits were just full of DSM's and 3/S's.
The 3/S turnout was huge. I
appreciate all those guys coming out this year.
The event for us seemed
to start on Thursday this year. The shop lot was
totally packed with
people. The day of the shootout the weather was HOT.
The entire weekend
was HOT. Cars ran great on Friday even with the heat.
Our orange car
ran 10.30 at 137, John Shepherd ripped off his best with a
9.90 at around
145. The RWD car ran an 8.76 in the heat and is finally once
again
going straight. We had the Buick out for some exibition runs.
Not
much great happened with it. We had a trans brake problem the first
round
and I couldn't stage the car with any boost. I ran a 9.4
pedaling the car.
We brought it out again later in the day. By the time
we brought it back
out
later in the day the traction was getting
poor. The street tire cars tear
up
the rubber on the track over
time. Car ran a slow 1.16 sixty foot time and
I
really had to pedal
it again about half track. I got it down with a 8.00 at
165. I
then found out that the owner of the car still had the boost down
from the
last race we were at and the best it could have run was a 7.80 or
so. I
didn't feel quite as bad at that point.
The awards after the shootout
went really well. We ran our dyno until about
9:30 pm, the dyno has
never ran that much and I made more charging $25 for a
pull then I have since
I have owned the thing. There were some really
impressive numbers put
down, one in particular was 400 hp through a 3" cat,
nice.
Car show
was great this year. I usually drop in late and leave early.
I
spent the entire day there and had a really good time.
Sundays
import race was huge again this year. It was a great day for
some
of
us for sure. My brother Daniel ended up #1 qualifier in
Quick 8 with our
orange AWD. He ran a 10.03 at 139 mph without
NOS. I made some exibition
runs in the RWD car and ran a new best of
8.500 @ 158 mph. John Sheperd won
again in the street class and Aaron
Poe with my old Conquest took second in
Quick, he ran some 10.4's.
I
had a really great time and want to really thank all the guys that come
here
every year and race. Without all of our customers we wouldn't be
here
and believe me, I want to stick around a long time. So THANK YOU
ALL VERY
MUCH.
Next year is going to mark the 10th anniversary of the
DSM Shootout. Start
spreading the word now. IT is going to be the
biggest and best yet. I want
to do alot of changes for next year to
make it even better for everyone.
Take care,
David
Buschur
President
Buschur Racing, INC.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:52:28
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
Thanks, I'll give
it a try. Do you think the 1/2 hole in my MAS could also
be part of the
problem?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> It's
always a good idea to turn it harder with two turns just to see what
>
happens :)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:47:39
-0500
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
Somewhat Off Topic here, but good
info for those in need:
I've been looking for a deal on Eibachs (Prokit
#2811.140) for awhile. After searching the net I found TM Engineering in Carson,
CA selling the above springs for $199.95 (everyday price!)
Not being the
one to accept that price, even though it's the best I've seen... I called
CarParts.com and inquired about their 110% price guarantee. They took the info
below, looked for themselves at TM Engineering (you have to tell the
CarParts.com rep to click on the "add to cart" button and saw $199.95 plus
shipping.
CarParts immediately and without hesitation quoted me $179.96
for the identical set of Eibachs. With shipping the springs came to $202.94. Not
a bad deal in my book! Needless to say, they're on their way to
me!
Here's the info you'll need:
TM Engineering
www.tmengineering.net
CarParts.com Ph. Number: 1-877-387-2787
Thought you'd like to
know!
Regards,
Craig
94 TT (22k original miles!)
93TT
wheels (slightly shaved calipers)
FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:04:52
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
maybe you should have called TM
Engineering to see if they would beat
CarParts price!
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Craig Golema
[SMTP:CGOLEMA@hobbico.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:48 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
>
> Somewhat Off
Topic here, but good info for those in need:
>
> I've been looking
for a deal on Eibachs (Prokit #2811.140) for awhile.
> After searching the
net I found TM Engineering in Carson, CA selling the
> above springs for
$199.95 (everyday price!)
>
> Not being the one to accept that
price, even though it's the best I've
> seen... I called CarParts.com and
inquired about their 110% price
> guarantee. They took the info below,
looked for themselves at TM
> Engineering (you have to tell the
CarParts.com rep to click on the "add to
> cart" button and saw $199.95
plus shipping.
>
> CarParts immediately and without hesitation
quoted me $179.96 for the
> identical set of Eibachs. With shipping the
springs came to $202.94. Not a
> bad deal in my book! Needless to say,
they're on their way to me!
>
> Here's the info you'll
need:
>
> TM Engineering
>
www.tmengineering.net >
>
CarParts.com Ph. Number: 1-877-387-2787
>
> Thought you'd like to
know!
>
> Regards,
>
> Craig
>
> 94 TT
(22k original miles!)
> 93TT wheels (slightly shaved calipers)
>
FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:33:21
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
> Thanks, I'll
give it a try. Do you think the 1/2 hole in
> my MAS could also be
part of the problem?
Certainly could be. Do you have a digital
camera so you can post a picture
of the damaged honeycomb somewhere?
When you say there's a 1/2 hole in it,
is that like a 1/2" round area where
there's no longer any honeycomb, or is
the end smashed flat so air can't pass
through there? Which one of the
honeycombs is damaged? The outer
ones, or the main passage where it
actually meters the air?
Damaged
honeycombs can cause a large number of drivability problems. One
way to
help get the honeycombs straightened out if they are bent is to take
a hex
wrench that'll just fit in the honeycomb holes and insert it from the
output
side of the MAS and poke the honeycomb walls back into place
from
behind. They don't necessarily have to be perfect, but at least
be
"straight" from front to back.
If the damaged section is in the
main metering passage, you'll probably end
up buying a new MAS or acquiring a
used one from someone who upgraded to a
VPC or ARC-2.
How did the MAS
get damaged?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:41:52
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
Can you specify the spring rates on
these babies?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with stock suspension
still
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Craig Golema
[SMTP:CGOLEMA@hobbico.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 1:48
PM
>
> I've been looking for a deal on Eibachs (Prokit #2811.140)
for awhile.
> After searching the net I found TM Engineering in Carson, CA
selling the
> above springs for $199.95 (everyday price!)
>
>
CarParts immediately and without hesitation quoted me $179.96 for the
>
identical set of Eibachs. With shipping the springs came to $202.94. Not
a
> bad deal in my book! Needless to say, they're on their way to
me!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:57:23
-0500
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
I don't think so. The springs are
packaged as a kit (#281.140) and therefore are probably stock shelf kits with
the most popular spring rates.
Besides, CarParts only does the price
guarantee for items of the EXACT part number, etc.
You could, however,
contact TM Engineering... maybe they can get you the spring rates you need, at
an affordable price.
Craig
>>Can you specify the spring
rates on these babies?
>>>Snip<<<
I've
been looking for a deal on Eibachs (Prokit #2811.140) for awhile.
After
searching the net I found TM Engineering in Carson, CA selling
the
above springs for $199.95 (everyday price!)
CarParts
immediately and without hesitation quoted me $179.96 for the
identical
set of Eibachs. With shipping the springs came to $202.94. Not a
bad
deal in my book! Needless to say, they're on their way to me!
>>>End
Snip<<<
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 16:00:51
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
It's more of a
smashed area which I straightened out but it still drives the
same.
Just to let you know, my idle is kind of high, bout 950-1000 rpms,
but
stable, no fluctuation or roughness.
The thing that bothers me is that
these problems do not appear till the car
warms up fully. As I stated
before, the problem occurred after my car had
spiked 1.22bar(not sure how or
why). When it spiked, the car sounded like it
hit fuel cut or something
because it hesitated really bad. Then after, I
noticed more hesitation
in the lower rpms under light throttle, however not
as bad under
WOT.
Thanks for the input.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
> Thanks, I'll give it a try. Do you think the 1/2 hole in
> >
my MAS could also be part of the problem?
>
> Certainly could
be. Do you have a digital camera so you can post a
picture
> of
the damaged honeycomb somewhere? When you say there's a 1/2 hole
in
it,
> is that like a 1/2" round area where there's no longer any
honeycomb, or
is
> the end smashed flat so air can't pass through
there? Which one of the
> honeycombs is damaged? The outer
ones, or the main passage where it
> actually meters the
air?
>
> Damaged honeycombs can cause a large number of drivability
problems. One
> way to help get the honeycombs straightened out if
they are bent is to
take
> a hex wrench that'll just fit in the
honeycomb holes and insert it from
the
> output side of the MAS and
poke the honeycomb walls back into place from
> behind. They don't
necessarily have to be perfect, but at least be
> "straight" from front to
back.
>
> If the damaged section is in the main metering passage,
you'll probably
end
> up buying a new MAS or acquiring a used one from
someone who upgraded to a
> VPC or ARC-2.
>
> How did the MAS
get damaged?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:14:49
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Can you
specify the spring rates on these babies?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4 with stock suspension still
-
---------------------------------
Eibach tech services say that the one
and only spring kit offered for our
cars (the Eibach Pro-Kit, (part#
2811.140), uses progressively wound
springs. The front springs have an
initial rate of 228 lbs. to a final rate
of 428 lbs., and the rear springs
have an initial rate of 154 lbs. and a
final rate of 228 lbs.
From the
archives, (from a post by Erik Gross), here are some other numbers
for the
curious, below my sig.
Best,
Forrest
-
-------------------
Ok, so here's what I can dig up from the
FSM:
Spring Rates:
'91-'93 AWD
Front: 218 lb/in
Rear:
157lb/in
'94+ AWD
Front: 212 lb/in
Rear:
157lb/in
'91-'93 FWD
Front: 168 lb/in
Rear:
196lb/in
'94+ FWD
Front: 162 lb/in
Rear:
190lb/in
Shock Damping Force (@.984 ft/s):
<listed as
Hard/Medium/Soft (non-ECS) >
'91+ FWD, '91-'95.5 AWD
Front:
expansion 558/348/137 (238)
contraction 262/247/214
(119)
Rear: expansion 377/256/123 (220)
contraction
223/194/148 (121)
'95.5+ AWD
Front: expansion
238
contraction 119
Rear: expansion 309
contraction
110
So, the things that stand out to me are:
1) The front springs
rates for the FWD cars are considerably lower than AWD
cars.
2) The
rear springs rates for the FWD cars are considerably higher than
AWD
cars.
3) The non-ECS shocks are close to the "Tour"/soft ECS
setting.
I'm not really sure why 1 is that way. I'd imagine that 2
is to lessen
rearward weight transfer (squatting) in the FWD cars. I'd
guess 3 is
because of marketing and the "daily driver" and "touring"
uses of the car
(i.e. when it's not adjustable, make the stock setting soft
for the people
who want comfort).
Comments/explanations? I seem
to remember people talking about using GC
kits with springs in the 400-500
lb/in range - is your car unbearably bouncy
on imperfect roads? Anyone
know the specs on the GABs?
- - --Erik
"Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 16:32:51
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: intake question on VR-4
I just purchased a polished intake kit
from D&N Performance, link listed
below.
http://66.24.81.222/intake.htmThe
stock rubber hoses have fittings of some sort on the front and the rear
hose,
in addition to the center piece. They look to be part of the
emissions
controls. The front hose has a fitting that connects to a valve
on the
emissions canister in the front passenger side of the car. I do
not
know where the rear fitting goes to.
But, the pipes I just bought
from D&N only have the fitting on the front
pipe. Don told me that I
could just leave the fittings disconnected. But I
can not take the
chance of disconnecting the emissions controls, as they are
extremely
paranoid here in NJ, and they will not hesitate to fine you for
this, plus,
the inspection process is extremely thorough. They even look
under the
car to make sure the cat is still there.
The guy from D&N told me I
could purchase a fitting, and a tap, and install
it myself. But the
local Pep Boys does not have the fitting, and it is the
only store around
here.
Do I really need this rear fitting ? Would it effect
emissions, PCV, or
whatever, if I do not connect it ?
If this is the
case, I will have to return the pipes.
Any help will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://members.home.com/anthonymelillo/3000gt.htmAnthony
Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:52:09
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem WAS: MAS question.
> The thing that
bothers me is that these problems do
> not appear till the car warms up
fully. As I
> stated before, the problem occurred after my
car
> had spiked 1.22bar(not sure how or why). When it
> spiked, the
car sounded like it hit fuel cut or
> something because it hesitated
really bad. Then
> after, I noticed more hesitation in the lower
rpms
> under light throttle, however not as bad under WOT.
The
problems started right after the overboost? If so, pull all the
spark
plugs and run a compression test on all six cylinders. Hopefully
you didn't
break anything, but its always possible. You should see
somewhere between
140-150 on all six cylinders. It shouldn't have hit
fuel cut if you are
running 550cc injectors and have it tuned right - the
triggers for fuel cut
move really high up when you go to 550's, even if you
are getting severe
knock. The hesitation during your overboost sounds a
lot like what my car
did when it broke the pistons (detonation /
pre-ignition). I hope that's
not the case with your car. The only
way to start figuring it out though is
with a compression test.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 18:13:16
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: "Staged" 60K Maintenance?
OK, it's almost time for my 60K
maintenance again. Actually, I'm at the 50K
mark, but one of the
accessory belts is already starting to fray...
Since I don't have the
guilders to do it all at this time, I'd like to
just do the belts and their
related components first. Here's what I think I
need, as well as the
prices and part numbers from Tallahassee Mitsu:
Part
Number
Description
Price
MD193874- BELT TIMING $
103.64
MD319040- TENSIONER $
66.54
MD972005- WATERPUMP $
85.95
MD172376- BELT
P/S $
13.81
MD187463- BELT ALTE $
17.94
-
------------------------------------
Sub-total: $ 287.88 + S/H
Two questions:
Am I missing anything
from this list? I gleaned it from the 60K page at
www.3si.comDo these prices look
right? I seem to recall something about them giving a
group discount,
but I couldn't find any of the details on any of the various
S/3K
sites.
Thanks.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES (60K come around for
another visit...)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 18:25:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
FWIW -- I thought that the stock
springs for the VR-4 were quite mushy like
450/250 so these really do not
sound too interesting. Anyone else? I saw
the archive numbers but
these just sound nearly worse than stock in some
cases.
I like the
Ground Control or Eibach or Intrax style where you can pretty
much customize
your own rates.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 4:15
PM
Eibach tech services say that the one and only spring kit offered for
our
cars (the Eibach Pro-Kit, (part# 2811.140), uses progressively
wound
springs. The front springs have an initial rate of 228 lbs. to a
final rate
of 428 lbs., and the rear springs have an initial rate of 154 lbs.
and a
final rate of 228 lbs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:57:55
+1000
From:
M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.auSubject:
Team3S: tyre size
Hey
I have 18 x 10 (rear) and 18 x 9 (front)
rims for my VR4.
Can some one tell me what dimension tyres go on these
wheels.
Thanks
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 16:08:36
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: "Staged" 60K Maintenance?
You'll find a more complete list and
"how-to" (with part #s and prices) on
our FAQ pages, in an article by Rich
Leroy and an addendum by JackT:
www.Team3S.com/60k.htm The
write-up might give you an idea of what you
might (and might not) be able to
postpone, if you choose not to do it all
at
once...
Best,
Forrest
> OK, it's almost time
for my 60K maintenance again. Actually, I'm at the
50K mark, but one of
the accessory belts is already starting to fray...
> Since I
don't have the guilders to do it all at this time, I'd like to
just do the
belts and their related components first. Here's what I think I
need,
as well as the prices and part numbers from Tallahassee Mitsu:
>
>
Part Number
Description Price
>
MD193874- BELT TIMING $ 103.64
>
MD319040- TENSIONER $ 66.54
>
MD972005- WATERPUMP $ 85.95
>
MD172376- BELT
P/S $ 13.81
>
MD187463- BELT ALTE $
17.94
>
------------------------------------
>
Sub-total: $ 287.88 + S/H
>
> Two questions:
>
> Am I
missing anything from this list? I gleaned it from the 60K page at
>
www.3si.com>
> Do these prices
look right? I seem to recall something about them giving
a
>
group discount, but I couldn't find any of the details on any of
the
various
> S/3K sites.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES (60K come around for another
visit...)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 20:25:05
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
OT: Eibachs from Carparts.com
You missed the lower part of Bob's
post:
Stock spring rates are:
'94+ AWD
Front: 212
lb/in
Rear: 157lb/in
Oskar
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 24, 2001 5:25 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: OT: Eibachs from
Carparts.com
> FWIW -- I thought that the stock springs for the
VR-4 were quite mushy
like
> 450/250 so these really do not sound too
interesting. Anyone else? I saw
> the archive numbers but
these just sound nearly worse than stock in some
> cases.
>
>
I like the Ground Control or Eibach or Intrax style where you can pretty
>
much customize your own rates.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob
Forrest
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 4:15 PM
>
> Eibach tech
services say that the one and only spring kit offered for our
> cars (the
Eibach Pro-Kit, (part# 2811.140), uses progressively wound
>
springs. The front springs have an initial rate of 228 lbs. to a
final
rate
> of 428 lbs., and the rear springs have an initial rate of
154 lbs. and a
> final rate of 228 lbs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 22:11:48
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
OK, I've figured out that we have
93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
That means they won't clear a set of
94 calipers.
Back to Square One.
Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in
open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
If so, what are you using for
pads/rotors/cooling?
How's it working?
Rich/old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:55:16
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Hesitation Problem
> Let me better explain what happened
as I think my problem may be more than
> just the rip.
>
> The
problem first occurred on Sunday 7/22/01. I was driving the
car,
going
> pretty strong. I was in fourth gear, let off the gas
a little and rpm's
> dropped. I then gassed it again and the car spiked to
1.22bar according to
> my peak readings on my Blitz DSBC. At this point I
felt what appeared to
be
> some sort of stumbling or hesitation which I
assume is fuel cut. I
> immediately let off the
gas.
Hi
Thats exactly the same symptoms mine had and the same
cause.
End result, 6 broken pistons
Steve
Cooper
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 06:12:07
-0400
From: "Mark Creekmore" <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Second gear issue
Hi all,
While I was at the DSM Shootout this
past Friday, I had a problem shifting
into second gear. I get a bad grinding
noise. After letting the car sit for
a few hours (while I watched the rest of
the races) I was able to drive it
home and use second gear. The problem only
occurs at high rpms. I tried
adjusting the clutch out a little, in case it
wasn't fully engaging, but
that didn't help.
So, is it time for a new
trans?
Mark Creekmore
92' Stealth R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 06:16:33
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Second gear issue
> So, is it time for a new
trans?
Sounds to me like it's just time to replace your 2nd gear
syncro.
- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
Porterfield
Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
Greddy
Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 05:00:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
Ditto. Red Line in all
cases with no problems after 4K miles (to
Norwalk and back).
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> Which Redline? We've put redline in all four cars'
trannys,
> transfer cases,
> and rear diff's without any
problem. The rear differential has
> different
> fluid (75W90)
from the tranny and transfer case (MT90 I think).
>
> Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ken Stanton
[SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 9:47
AM
> > To: Willis, Charles E.
> > Cc: Team3S
> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear differential (TT/VR-4s only)
> >
>
> Do NOT put synthetic fluid in your diff unless you're going to do
> a
seal
> > replacement too. I put Redline in mine, then it leaked
around
> all the
> > seals,
> > and the infamous
'clunking' began. The car only had 60k on it!
> >
> >
BOL
> > Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 07:52:57
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4
If this is the kit that goes under
the Y-pipe? (the linkd didn't work for
me).
I bought this kit for my
'96 VR-4 and have no problems with the fittings.
Everything fit righ in
exactly as the stock hoses.
My one has one hose at the front and a small one
in the rear.
Maybe you have a different kind of emissions ('97
?)
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, July 24, 2001 4:33 PM
To: 3000GT List Submissions
Subject:
Team3S: intake question on VR-4
I just purchased a polished intake
kit from D&N Performance, link listed
below.
http://66.24.81.222/intake.htmThe
stock rubber hoses have fittings of some sort on the front and the rear
hose,
in addition to the center piece. They look to be part of the
emissions
controls. The front hose has a fitting that connects to a valve
on the
emissions canister in the front passenger side of the car. I do
not
know where the rear fitting goes to.
But, the pipes I just bought
from D&N only have the fitting on the front
pipe. Don told me that I
could just leave the fittings disconnected. But I
can not take the
chance of disconnecting the emissions controls, as they are
extremely
paranoid here in NJ, and they will not hesitate to fine you for
this, plus,
the inspection process is extremely thorough. They even look
under the
car to make sure the cat is still there.
The guy from D&N told me I
could purchase a fitting, and a tap, and install
it myself. But the
local Pep Boys does not have the fitting, and it is the
only store around
here.
Do I really need this rear fitting ? Would it effect
emissions, PCV, or
whatever, if I do not connect it ?
If this is the
case, I will have to return the pipes.
Any help will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://members.home.com/anthonymelillo/3000gt.htmAnthony
Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 05:17:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: intake question on VR-4
I also have the DN intake pipes on my
'92 TT. Mine has the rear
nipple, but I capped it off. The nipple on the
stock rear pipe
connects to the stock BC solenoid (to route the bleeded air
back into
the intake). I plan to use it to monitor pressure. I think DN
will
make the rear pipe with or without the fitting. The front
large
fitting goes to the evap purge canister nearby (recycles vapors
from
the fuel tank). A 10mm ID hose fits it well (as should the
stock
hose).
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- --- "Berrios,
Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
wrote:
> If this is the kit that goes under the Y-pipe? (the linkd
didn't
> work for
> me).
>
> I bought this kit for my
'96 VR-4 and have no problems with the
> fittings.
> Everything fit
righ in exactly as the stock hoses.
> My one has one hose at the front
and a small one in the rear.
>
> Maybe you have a different kind
of emissions ('97 ?)
>
> Victor
> '96 Pearl White
VR-4
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24,
2001 4:33 PM
> To: 3000GT List Submissions
> Subject: Team3S: intake
question on VR-4
>
>
> I just purchased a polished intake
kit from D&N Performance, link
> listed
> below.
>
http://66.24.81.222/intake.htm>
> The stock rubber hoses have fittings of some sort on the front
and
> the rear
> hose, in addition to the center piece. They
look to be part of the
> emissions controls. The front hose has a
fitting that connects to
> a valve
> on the emissions canister in
the front passenger side of the car.
> I do not
> know where the
rear fitting goes to.
>
> But, the pipes I just bought from D&N
only have the fitting on the
> front
> pipe. Don told me that I
could just leave the fittings
> disconnected. But I
> can not
take the chance of disconnecting the emissions controls, as
> they
are
> extremely paranoid here in NJ, and they will not hesitate to
fine
> you for
> this, plus, the inspection process is extremely
thorough. They
> even look
> under the car to make sure the
cat is still there.
>
> The guy from D&N told me I could
purchase a fitting, and a tap, and
> install
> it myself. But
the local Pep Boys does not have the fitting, and
> it is the
> only
store around here.
>
> Do I really need this rear fitting ?
Would it effect emissions,
> PCV, or
> whatever, if I do not connect
it ?
>
> If this is the case, I will have to return the
pipes.
>
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
>
> 1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
>
http://members.home.com/anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:16:34
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
Rich,
I have been
running my '93 VR4 for three seasons with stock 1st generation
brakes.
I have no ducting. I used Stillen crossdrilled rotors. Initially,
I
used Stillen Metal Matrix pads, but they don't work well. I found
that
Carbotech Panther Pads, which you can get from Jamn Motorsports
(
http://www.jamnmotorsports.com/),
give you excellent braking and wear about
1/8" per weekend event.
I
refaced the rotors after each event. I had a set of stock
rotors
crossdrilled at a machine shop, and alternated between the Stillens
and
homemade, until the homemade finally failed (after two years of use
-
probably 6-8 events).
I rebuilt the front calipers by choice, and
wound up rebuilding the rear
calipers by necessity. I also rebuilt the
brake master cylinder, although
the old one was still functional.
Of
course, I am using Motul brake fluid.
Sadly, my '93 is retired to be our
commuter car, so my '94 is taking to the
track.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 10:12
PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
>
> OK, I've
figured out that we have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
> That
means they won't clear a set of 94 calipers.
> Back to Square One.
>
> Has anyone been running a 1st Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen
brakes?
> If so, what are you using for pads/rotors/cooling?
> How's
it working?
>
> Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:08:29
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
I've did my first and only
event with Porterfield R4-S pads, everything else
stock. Learned
afterwords that I should have changed fluid before the
event. They got
quite hot. I plan on going back this Sunday with new
fluid, Motul if it
arrives on time, Ford/Motorcraft heavy duty DOT3 if not.
This brings up a
question, when I requested heavy duty brake fluid from Ford
dealers the first
one I went to gave me DOT4 which I returned, the second
gave me Motorcraft hd
DOT3. When I asked he told me Ford stopped making
their own. It
was pretty obvious neither one knew too much about what they
were
talking. Anyone know the story?
Sean
'91 R/T TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 22:12
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Upgrading 1st Gen breakes redux
OK, I've figured out that we
have 93 wheels on my daughter's 91 Strealth.
That means they won't clear a
set of 94 calipers.
Back to Square One.
Has anyone been running a 1st
Gen in open tracking with 1st Gen brakes?
If so, what are you using for
pads/rotors/cooling?
How's it working?
Rich/old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:23:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Second gear issue
Before you have the tranny rebuilt, drain
the fluid, clean the magnetic
plug, and refill with fresh fluid. It's
cheaper than a rebuild. Also you
might bleed your clutch hydralics,
check your slave cylinder for leaks,
maybe the clutch isn't fully
DIS-engaging.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark
Creekmore [SMTP:mcreekmore@usa.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 5:12
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Second gear issue
>
> Hi all,
>
>
While I was at the DSM Shootout this past Friday, I had a problem
shifting
> into second gear. I get a bad grinding noise. After letting the
car sit
> for
> a few hours (while I watched the rest of the races)
I was able to drive it
> home and use second gear. The problem only occurs
at high rpms. I tried
> adjusting the clutch out a little, in case it
wasn't fully engaging, but
> that didn't help.
>
> So, is it
time for a new trans?
>
> Mark Creekmore
> 92' Stealth R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#556
***************************************