Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, July 23
2001 Volume 01 : Number
554
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 22 Jul 2001 14:30:23 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: need a diet (not me the car)
> I have a brother that owns
a 92 eagle talon with a 1.6 liter
> turbo with AWD that weighs 2800 lbs.
according to him. The
> only thing that I can figure why my stealth
weighs more is
> I have 2 more cylinders, 1.4 more liters and an extra
turbo.
> But can this add up to 900 lbs.?
A 92 Talon TSI AWD
actually has a 2.0 liter turbo, and they weigh right
around 3100-3200 pounds,
not 2800 pounds. The FWD version of that car is
closer to 2800-2900
pounds (still 2.0 liter turbo).
On our cars, there's a lot that weighs
more. Overall, the car is just plain
bigger - there's more metal in the
frame and other components are built much
more solidly than on the
Talon. Doors are very hefty on the 3/S and much
less solid on the
Talon. The power seat on 3/S is pretty heavy... 20
gallon fuel
tank versus 14 gallon tank on Talon makes some difference.
Additional steel
in the engine block (and two heads instead of one), etc
makes up some of the
weight difference as well. Two turbos, two exhaust
manifolds, more
exhaust piping, bigger cooling system, etc.
Weight is
everywhere...
> Is there anything that can be done about how
heavy
> our cars are? What's the rule of thumb, every 100
>
lbs. equals a tenth of a second at the track?
Sure you can do something
about the weight - start taking stuff out.
Replace the seats with lightweight
racing seats, get a carbon fiber hood,
get a lighter exhaust system, get
lighter wheels, replace the fuel tank with
a fuel cell for racing, take the
side-impact beams out of the doors, remove
the bumpers, remove the air
conditioning, remove the AWS system.
There's lots of things you can do,
but a number of them will make it a less
fun street car (and most will kill
resale value).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 15:05:34
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Broken Cobra rotors
Unless you've been following the open track
lists, you are missing a raging
controversy over Brembo (!!) rotors that are
breaking on new Ford Mustang
Cobras. Jeff Lacina (Slow 'ol Farmer Dude) has
posted an interesting letter
from Baer Brakes on his web site:
http://www.trackguys.com/broken/brembo_rotor_failures.htm
He also has photos of a spectacular off suffered by a Cobra whose
brakes
broke (from the page above, go back to HOME and find more links to
photos
and stuff (in his Broken Stuff link, you'll find photos of Oskar's
broken
stillen rotors)
I bring this dreary 'stang topic up because (a)
we are not the only ones
who have problems with brakes and (b) the people at
Baer Racing seem to
have solved the Cobra problem so maybe they might be able
to come up with a
rotor for us and (c) Jeff has an interesting web page.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Big Reds, Porterfield cryo treated rotors, SS
lines, air ducts, water
injection.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 15:13:33
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel Spacer Clearance
I have half inch spacers and my car is
adjusted as low as possible (I can
barely fit my hand between the tire and
the fender lip), and I have no
clearance problems. I also have very stiff
springs.
Rich
>I'm trying to determine if a new set of 18 x
8.5 x 42mm offset wheels is
>going to clear the top of my fender. As
it sits right now, the outside
>edges of the wheel is nearly flush with
outside of the top of the fender.
>Does anyone know if our tires actually
extend up underneath the wheel well
>under full compression. It
seems like a silly question, but I would think
>that anyone running 1/2"
spacers on the front hubs would run into fender
>clearance problems if
this were the case. Any help would be
much
>appreciated.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 23:43:38
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK Heat shielding
> I have been trying to solve
the problem of bringing cooler air into the
motor.
Make a hood
scoop
> I have looked, but I haven't found a good solution such as ram
or cold
induction.
Cut the hood :)
> The first and easiest
problem was the K&N being forced to breath the hot
air underneath the
hood.
There is some air commign through besides of the radiator. It sucks
hot air
when not driving.
> I wanted to separate the fender/ intake
side from the rest of the engine
compartment. To do this I invested
three
> bones in unrolled stovepipe, found a pair of tin-snips and a file,
and
found some cardboard.
I have no idea how this should look like
(and what it is). Just use a normal
temp and place it inside the filter to
measure the difference.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 22:54:03
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shoot-out results web page
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=a8bdb6f476c48de49e54d1746a9224fb&threadid=37806Joe
Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 00:38:03
-0400
From: "Katrikh, Robert" <
robert.katrikh@mssm.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Continueating Problems with my 92 VR4... NEed HELP
After the car
being parked for 2 weeks it was finally nice weather so i
took it to a car
wash... About 20 minutes after the car wash the car
started to act funny...
Once i take it to 4000rpm it would stutter and
the gas pedal would have no
responce and eventually the RPM would drop
and the car would shut off. The
car would start but as soon as it
stabilize to its regular idle the car would
shut off. This happened not
only when i would be driving but parked as well.
When i parked the car
for about 6 hours and drove it again that day the
problem never came
back.
Next evening i'm
driving around fine for about 30 minutes then i
see the temperature guage was
rising slowly above the center towards the
(H) (it was between the picture on
the temperature guage and the (H)) I
parked the car and checked for leaks and
if all the fans are working and
if the antifreeze is full but there is
nothing wrong. Next morning i
start the car... and while parked i was revving
it for about 5
minutes... and it starting rising again almost touching the
(H)... Once
again no leaks fans work everything seems fine... Does anyone
know what
can cause this problem... I need help... i'm really nervouse that
i
would have to spend a lot of money fixing this problem... And all
this
started happening after not driving for 2
weeks...
Thanks A Lot..
Robert
Katrikh
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 08:28:06
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Signs of turbo failing...
check the y-pipe connections ...
sounds like a horrendous vacuum leak ...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Katrikh, Robert
[SMTP:robert.katrikh@mssm.edu]
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 2:20
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Signs of turbo failing...
>
> What are some signs
of a turbo dying... I was driving this weekend and
> when i shifted to
second and stepped on the gas the car started
> stuttering and eventually
shut off while i was driving... It happened
> about 4 times that day until
i finally parked. Also i haven't driven the
> car for three weeks prior to
that and as soon as i got a car wash this
> problem started happening.
Once the idle starts dropping to zero even if
> i floor the gas pedal
there is no RPM responce it just falls to zero and
> the car shuts off....
Does anyone know what can cause this... Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 09:18:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Continueating Problems with my 92 VR4... NEed HELP
check the
spark plug wire connections to the spark coils.
also take a look at the air
intake - do you have the stock air box or an
aftermarket intake? maybe you
filled it with water.
use a flashlight to check the intercoolers to see if
you have an obvious
hole punched in the front of one of them.
did you get
new fuel at the car wash? you might want to siphon a sample from
your tank
and see if you got water in your gasoline. If so, the fuel will
look
like mocha frappacino.
we all all just guessing here. sudden
problems establishing a stable idle
often have simple causes. (spark, air,
fuel ...)
Good hunting! (no pun intended)
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Katrikh, Robert
[SMTP:robert.katrikh@mssm.edu]
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 11:38
PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Continueating Problems with my 92 VR4... NEed HELP
>
> After the car being parked for 2 weeks it was finally nice weather so
i
> took it to a car wash... About 20 minutes after the car wash the
car
> started to act funny... Once i take it to 4000rpm it would stutter
and
> the gas pedal would have no responce and eventually the RPM would
drop
> and the car would shut off. The car would start but as soon as
it
> stabilize to its regular idle the car would shut off. This happened
not
> only when i would be driving but parked as well. When i parked the
car
> for about 6 hours and drove it again that day the problem never
came
> back.
> Next evening i'm
driving around fine for about 30 minutes then i
> see the temperature
guage was rising slowly above the center towards the
> (H) (it was between
the picture on the temperature guage and the (H)) I
> parked the car and
checked for leaks and if all the fans are working and
> if the antifreeze
is full but there is nothing wrong. Next morning i
> start the car... and
while parked i was revving it for about 5
> minutes... and it starting
rising again almost touching the (H)... Once
> again no leaks fans work
everything seems fine... Does anyone know what
> can cause this problem...
I need help... i'm really nervouse that i
> would have to spend a lot of
money fixing this problem... And all this
> started happening after not
driving for 2 weeks...
>
>
> Thanks A
Lot..
>
> Robert Katrikh
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 10:18:57
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: MAS question.
My car a 95 VR-4 has a stumbling problem
which seems to happen under 4k
rpm. I changed and re-gapped the spark plugs
not that long ago so I doubt
it's the spark plugs.
When I first
noticed the problem, I pulled over popped the hood and noticed
my K&N had
fallen off. I also noticed that there was a 1/2 gouge or rip in
the
honeycomb on the bottom corner of the mas.
I've heard of people
completely gutting out the MAS only to get really bad
hesitiation and
stumbling.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the rip I have in
the honeycomb
of the MAS would cause the stumbling I am now
experiencing.
Thanks in advance,
Michael Bulaon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 09:33:02
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Autometer Tachometer
Where do I wire the RPM input wire for the
aftermarket tachometer I am
installing?
It says to the coil or
ignition output, but I haven't a clue what/where
that is. I have
searched through the Manuals, but I can only find the
output that is used for
testing the cars RPM when setting basic ignition
timing. Is this what I
need, or is there another wire at the ECU that I
can use? (it's a 1st
gen)
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 09:51:35
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MAS question.
Have you tried bending the MAS honeycomb back
into shape with a little
screwdriver?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net
[SMTP:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 9:19
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: MAS question.
>
> My car a 95 VR-4 has a
stumbling problem which seems to happen under 4k
> rpm. I changed and
re-gapped the spark plugs not that long ago so I doubt
> it's the spark
plugs.
>
> When I first noticed the problem, I pulled over popped
the hood and
> noticed
> my K&N had fallen off. I also
noticed that there was a 1/2 gouge or rip
> in
> the honeycomb on
the bottom corner of the mas.
>
> I've heard of people completely
gutting out the MAS only to get really bad
> hesitiation and
stumbling.
>
> I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the rip I
have in the honeycomb
> of the MAS would cause the stumbling I am now
experiencing.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 10:40:12
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS question.
No I haven't yet but do you think this could be
the problem?
> Have you tried bending the MAS honeycomb back into
shape with a little
> screwdriver?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:13:28
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS question.
Uhm, not sure a bout that, because when the
stumbling happens, my two A/F
guages are showing rich conditions. Also
the car runs fine after 4000k and
at WOT.
> depending on the size
of the hole, air gets through the hole without being
> sensed by the ECU,
so the ECU doesn't drive the injectors enough, so the
> mixture is too
lean. just a wag (wild-assed guess).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 10:35:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MAS question.
shows the value of a wag = zero.
Have
you run some injector cleaner through your fuel tank?
Also, does the
stumble occur at the same rpm in any gear, or at the same
throttle position
in any gear?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net
[SMTP:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 10:13
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Willis,
Charles E.
> Subject: Re: Team3S: MAS question.
>
> Uhm, not
sure a bout that, because when the stumbling happens, my two A/F
> guages
are showing rich conditions. Also the car runs fine after 4000k
>
and
> at WOT.
>
> > depending on the size of the hole, air
gets through the hole without
> being
> > sensed by the ECU, so
the ECU doesn't drive the injectors enough, so the
> > mixture is too
lean. just a wag (wild-assed guess).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 10:35:50
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Signs of turbo failing
> Subject: Team3S: Signs of turbo
failing...
>
> What are some signs of a turbo dying... I was driving
this weekend
and
> when i shifted to second and stepped on the gas the
car started
> stuttering and eventually shut off while i was driving...
It
happened
> about 4 times that day until i finally parked. Also i
haven't driven
the
> car for three weeks prior to that and as soon as i
got a car wash
this
> problem started happening. Once the idle starts
dropping to zero
even if
> i floor the gas pedal there is no RPM
responce it just falls to zero
and
> the car shuts off.... Does anyone
know what can cause this... Thanks
Did you wash your engine bay? Perhaps
you have moisture in your
sparkplug connectors or wells (usually the rear
bank as it was in my
case). Maybe your wires are just old? Usually, there is
smoke involved
with a failing turbo, a big blue/white cloud of "anti mosquito
fog"
following your car between shifts. If you suspect a turbo still,
and
have smoke, pull off the downpipe and recreate the conditions
where
the car smokes (usually high vacuum).
Actually, just remove the
front precat, plug the remaining downpipe
facing the front of the car with a
wad of aluminum foil, and if smoke
comes out from the front of the car, it's
the front turbo, if it comes
out from the exhaust tips in the rear, it's your
rear turbo.
You also might want to check error codes the ECU might have
flagged, I
think you can have errors stored even if no "Check Engine"
light
lights up.
One more thing, check your battery, and battery
connectors (clean
them). Corrosion sometimes caused poor contact when my
engine bay
heated up, and car would occaisionally stall and
sputter.
Vinny Singh
http://www.ecanfix.com/ - Your Chicagoland
IT/IS solution provider
http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:26:31
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS question.
Well the injectors were recently upgraded to
new 550's last month. And it
seems the problem happens in the same rpm range
in anygear, but it only
happens in certain throttle positions in that rpm
range. If I'm really
light with the gas pedal and build minimal boost,
the problem doesn't occur.
Gas pedal position is less than half.
However if the position is half or
more, the stumbling
happens.
> shows the value of a wag = zero.
>
> Have
you run some injector cleaner through your fuel tank?
>
> Also, does
the stumble occur at the same rpm in any gear, or at the same
> throttle
position in any gear?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 10:48:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MAS question.
if the stumble is correlated to a particular
throttle position or positions,
my money is on a defective TPS. Is your
car pitching any error codes?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net
[SMTP:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 10:27
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Willis,
Charles E.
> Subject: Re: Team3S: MAS question.
>
> Well the
injectors were recently upgraded to new 550's last month. And it
> seems
the problem happens in the same rpm range in anygear, but it only
>
happens in certain throttle positions in that rpm range. If I'm
really
> light with the gas pedal and build minimal boost, the problem
doesn't
> occur.
> Gas pedal position is less than half.
However if the position is half or
> more, the stumbling happens.
>
> > shows the value of a wag = zero.
> >
> > Have
you run some injector cleaner through your fuel tank?
> >
> >
Also, does the stumble occur at the same rpm in any gear, or at the same
>
> throttle position in any gear?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:35:00
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS question.
I haven't checked, but would a bad TPS throw a
"Check Engine" light. It
currently isn't showing any.
> if
the stumble is correlated to a particular throttle position
or
positions,
> my money is on a defective TPS. Is your car
pitching any error codes?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 10:55:55
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MAS question.
You're right, I usually don't check unless I
have an idiot light on.
However, Vinny's latest post suggested that some
error codes may be
generated without setting the check engine light, so
...
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net
[SMTP:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 10:35
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Willis,
Charles E.
> Subject: Re: Team3S: MAS question.
>
> I haven't
checked, but would a bad TPS throw a "Check Engine" light. It
>
currently isn't showing any.
>
> > if the stumble is correlated
to a particular throttle position or
> positions,
> > my money is
on a defective TPS. Is your car pitching any error codes?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:40:44
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS question.
Thanks, my car is a 95. How do go about
checking codes?
> You're right, I usually don't check unless I have an
idiot light on.
> However, Vinny's latest post suggested that some error
codes may be
> generated without setting the check engine light, so
...
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:52:55
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: price of a clutch job in Houston ...
By the way, the OEM
clutch was by Daikin, same as what came off the car.
They reinstalled with
the old seals on the right and left drive shafts, but
will replace them if
there are leaks, put the same fluid back in the tranny
that came out, but
will put fresh RedLine in for free when not busy (I
didn't think that far in
advance, but have three liters on the shelf in my
garage). First 3000
miles (actually 1500 miles), they ask for no clutch
dropping, which I don't
do anyhow.
Old clutch was worn down to the rivets at only 61K miles,
flywheel was in
good shape, perfect with refacing by machine.
By the
way, he has VR4 tranny's rebuilt for $2200, using Kormex parts.
I'll
cross that bridge when I come to it, with my extended
warranty.
No problems with the hydralics.
Life is good. Now
to put 1500 miles on the car between Houston and Topeka
by August
9.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis,
Charles E.
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 3:22 PM
> To:
team3S
> Subject: price of a clutch job in Houston ...
>
>
Just got off the phone with some transmission shops. Price quote for a
>
clutch replacement was as follows:
>
> $436.35
>
$605.00
> $1000.00 including refacing flywheel
> $629 including
refacing flywheel, OEM clutch, and 2 yr 20K mile warranty
> $1500 at the
dealer
>
> I made an appointment with the $629 clutch specialty
shop. They also
> quoted an additional $239 to replace both clutch
master and slave
> cylinders, if necessary by test results.
>
> Am I being stupid? (again)
>
> Chuck
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:15:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: * ON VACATION *
If you need to reach me this week, I will be out
of town in Vegas will
next Monday.
Email will still come in, but I may
be a few days in catching up.
Make your subject lines stand out in your
Email to me to get noticed for
sure.
Thanks.
*New &
Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 13:15:22
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MAS question.
> Well the injectors were recently upgraded
to new
> 550's last month. And it seems the problem
> happens in the
same rpm range in anygear, but it
> only happens in certain throttle
positions in
> that rpm range. If I'm really light with the
gas
> pedal and build minimal boost, the problem doesn't
>
occur. Gas pedal position is less than half.
> However if the
position is half or more, the
> stumbling happens.
What fuel
controller are you using? Sounds like you don't have it adjusted
right
at higher airflow rates and the car is drowning in fuel.
(Assuming you do
have a fuel controller - its required with 550's)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 14:56:20
-0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAS question.
I have the HKS AFR to control my fuel, similar
to the Apex'i AFC. This is
what I have for now till I get either my
Arc2 or VPC. Not sure yet, still
deciding.
I'd agree with you if
it only wasn't the fact that my car has been running
fine for about a month
and a half with the current setup of my injectors and
HKS controller. I
haven't changed any of the settings . Becuase of this I'm
not sure the
problem would be remedied with more tuning of the fuel.
Thanks for the
the input.
Michael Bulaon
> What fuel controller are
you using? Sounds like you don't have it
adjusted
> right at
higher airflow rates and the car is drowning in fuel.
>
> (Assuming
you do have a fuel controller - its required with 550's)
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:20:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:07:55 -0700
Anyone?
My shifter
linkage is sticking / binding. Very hard to shift into gear but no grinding or
odd sounds.
My first guess is maybe my linkage is bent or needs lube.....any
thoughts
I have not even looked under the hood yet...just happened at lunch
and would like to know where to start when I get home.
Any possibility
for a six speed for a 93 front wheel only stealth R/T.......???
Last
chance for the last of my spark plug plates before I go to Ebay on
Thursday.
2 3000gt's and 1 VR4 left.---45.00
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:34:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Shootout news --- Who won?
Hi all,
Blown headgasket so I
couldn't defend my old 2nd place
title or Xwing his 1st place.
Maybe in 2002, right Jack T?
Well, Who won??
How many Stealths/VR4's attended??
Congrats to all who could
attend.
Be of good cheer,
John
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#554
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