Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Friday, July 20 2001     Volume 01 : Number 552

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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:21:32 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: price of a clutch job in Houston ...

Just got off the phone with some transmission shops. Price quote for a
clutch replacement was as follows:

$436.35
$605.00
$1000.00 including refacing flywheel
$629 including refacing flywheel, OEM clutch, and 2 yr 20K mile warranty
$1500 at the dealer

I made an appointment with the $629 clutch specialty shop. They also quoted
an additional $239 to replace both clutch master and slave cylinders, if
necessary by test results.

Am I being stupid? (again)

Chuck

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 13:33:14 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: price of a clutch job in Houston ...

Sounds pretty good to me. My Dodge dealer (who gives a 20% Team3S discount)
installed an RPS Carbon Claw Clutch for me, checked the flywheel (it didn't
need refacing) and charged $350 for the install, incl tax. The clutch was
$250 and the TOB was $40, so that $640 price (over a year ago, at a
*dealer*) is in line with your $629 for an OEM replacement. They charged me
an additional $250 for master and slave cylinders - that's also a similar
price.

If they know their stuff, you're probably making the right choice.

Best,

Forrest

> Just got off the phone with some transmission shops. Price quote for a
clutch replacement was as follows:
> $436.35
> $605.00
> $1000.00 including refacing flywheel
> $629 including refacing flywheel, OEM clutch, and 2 yr 20K mile warranty
> $1500 at the dealer
> I made an appointment with the $629 clutch specialty shop. They also
quoted
> an additional $239 to replace both clutch master and slave cylinders, if
> necessary by test results.
> Am I being stupid? (again)
> Chuck

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 14:47:51 -0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK Heat shielding

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>Good afternoon,</DIV>
<DIV>I have been trying to solve the problem of bringing cooler air into the motor. I have looked, but I haven't found a good solution such as ram or cold induction. The first and easiest problem was the K&N being forced to breath the hot air underneath the hood. I wanted to separate the fender/ intake side from the rest of the engine compartment. To do this I invested three bones in unrolled stovepipe, found a pair of tin-snips and a file, and found some cardboard.</DIV>
<DIV>The unrolled stovepipe had already been crimped with the ridges on one end, so it had a bias in it that made it want to roll, but the metal itself tried to kept it's flat shape. The end product was a piece of metal that would "lay down" when pushed on, but would also spring against what pushed it. So, when the hood is closed, it would "lay down" without resistance to damge the underhood insulation, but would be springy enough to stay up against the hood and therefore make a good seal. The cardboard was my template that I could make to fit in there before cutting any metal. </DIV>
<DIV>My shield fits against the battery but allows all wiring to go through without slicing them, surrounds and fits flush against the K&N- cut a hole for the intake to fit through, and finally a couple of inches towards the center of the car once past the front side of the filter. The metal curls towards the center of the car when the hood is closed because the shape of the hood makes this the best direction for it to go. On the side against the battery, I cut the metal at the height of the battery to allow air to flow out the back of the compartment. On the side near the front of the car, the metal curls towards the rear. I left plenty of excess in the metal because I had no great ideas about how to measure the distance between the hood and fender when the hood was closed. I unfortunately punched two holes in the insulation when I tried feathering the end of the cardboard hoping to see where it would bend. The metal lays down just fine.</DIV>
<DIV>I donot have a scanner or a digital camera to send out any pictures of this, but if you have the same notions I do about that evil hot air, you may want to consider this. I haven't taken any numerical measurements about the temperature difference between the two sides of the divider, but through use of the five finger tool I feel a significant temperature difference. The powerplant has a bit more pep, and the sound of the K&N is louder. </DIV>
<DIV>If you get in there and look you will be able to infer what shapes and cuts I am talking about. And, for three dollars and an hour's time, what the hey?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Zach "3.4 hours towards a PPL and lovin it" Sauerman</DIV>
<DIV>'94 Pearl Yellow Stealth TT</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>

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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:12:35 -0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Better Flow thru Intercoolers

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>Howdy!</DIV>
<DIV>There was talk a couple weeks ago about allowing more air to flow through the intercoolers by replacing the platic panels in the fenderwell with a mesh or screen. There was also concern about what water and dirt and mud would do with this change. I got excited about the chance to do a cheap mod, so I went ahead and did it and have some feedback for anybody considering it.</DIV>
<DIV>First, I used 1/8" hardward cloth as someone had suggested. I also purchased a can of black spraypaint for barbecue grills to withstand the heat. For those unfamiliar with hardware cloth, think of it as really, really tough window screen. 1/8" describes the size of the little holes- and I figured that this would stop anything being tossed by the tires. I tried to trace the shape of the plastic panel onto the cloth, but making a rigid 3D shape become 2D was about as cool as cancer. So, I excused myself and whipped out some cardboard and made a template by piecing together the different shapes. It was made of strips to get a good outline that I could flatten out once it was done. I laid this out, traced it, and cut my cloth with some tin-snips and then tried out the fit. You donot have to make relief cuts for the cloth to fold on because of the curvature  (you'll see when you get in there) because there is a ridge in the fenderwell that will take up the slack wh!
en you have to make a fold (you'll see it in there). I used a phillips screwdriver to punch one hole at a time to put in one bolt/ connector at a time to ensure that this would fit really well. After all bolts and connectors were spoken for and a few trimings were made for a good look, I took it out again and painted it black. </DIV>
<DIV>Again, I donot have a digital camera or scanner so I cannot give interested parties the template. But, it doesn't take much time at all, and it looks good. The fenderwell is much warmer now after a drive, so that means more heat transfer is taking place; be it from the intercoolers, oil cooler, or engine compartment. And like knowledge, heat transfer is good.</DIV>
<DIV>As for worries about the ABS computer on the passenger side, you are going to want to shield that. I got it wet washing my car and it made a horrbile noise that wouldn't stop after I stopped the engine. I stopped that by disconnecting the battery, waiting a few minutes, then reconnecting it. I haven't installed a shield yet, but have driven in the rain without problems. </DIV>
<DIV>So, if you are considering this, try it- it costs only five clams and a couple of hours.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Zach</DIV>
<DIV>'94 Pearl Yellow Stealth TT</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>

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Date: 19 Jul 2001 16:48:34 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Any expert help at CAPS

OK CAPS Experts I an trying to figure out if the crankshaft sprocket (drives the timing belt) is differnt for a 4-bolt main(93+) verses a 2bolt main (91,92).

The parts I found are
MD184894 sprocket,crankshaft for model 93+
MD152167 sprocket,crankshaft for model 91,92

Can someone verify if I did this right?

If I did it shows that an option part for 4-bolt main conversion is the crankshaft sprocket, although this is not needed as long as you remeber to set the sprocket to the timing mark on the oil pump one tooth off.

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 21:51:18 -0400
From: "Bill Blue" <bill@webtech-ohio.com>
Subject: Team3S: engine options?

My '93 Stealth (base) is just about ready for a new engine, or at least a
rebuild.   I'm putting about a quart of oil a week in it. It's got a
146,000 miles, so I guess I can't complain. Having seen some posts the last
couple of days about new short blocks being $3500, I decided to check out
some of the recommended used engine dealers. Sun's Engines has a DOHC motor
for about $1800. My car has the SOHC engine. Anyone know how hard the swap
would be to the RT engine? ECU? Mounts? Rebuild the motor I have?

Bill Blue

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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 08:46:03 -0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S: need a diet (not me the car)

According to various sources my vehicle's gross (94 R/T TT) weight is over
3700 lbs.   This really amazes me and I can't figure out where it's coming
from. I have a brother that owns a 92 eagle talon with a 1.6 liter turbo
with AWD that weighs 2800 lbs. according to him. The only thing that I can
figure why my stealth weighs more is I have 2 more cylinders, 1.4 more
liters and an extra turbo.   But can this add up to 900 lbs.? IIRC, a viper
tips the scales at 3800 lbs. which surprises me as well because these
numbers would rival most muscle cars, and those are boats (more like
battleships).

Is there anything that can be done about how heavy our cars are? What's the
rule of thumb, every 100 lbs. equals a tenth of a second at the track? Gets
me thinking that my engine in my brother's talon could put me solidly in the
12's at the track. And better fuel mileage to boot!

Michael Donnelly
94 R/T TT
hks boost controller
k&n filter
no EGR valve

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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 13:30:41 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: exhaust clamps corroded away

Whilst under the car last weekend, I noticed that the exhaust pipe clamps, I
think the ones around the catalytic converter, are corroded away. Is this
something I can replace easily, or is this something I should take to the
muffler shop?

Chuck (King of Corrosion)

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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 15:30:11 EDT
From: The68th@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Ctrl arm install

Does anyone have experience with installing a new control arm on a 92 stealth DOHC (front driver side). How hard is it, and are there detailed directions? I am only 18 and not exactly a mechanic, do you think I could to it? Also are there any pictures of the install process that anyone has taken?
Chris
1992 Stealth ES

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Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 14:51:04 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ctrl arm install

Installing a control arm in any car is not hard, but you have to have the
right tools. A pickel fork is an absolute must. Also, MAKE SURE you put all
nuts back on with the clips, cotter pins, and whatever other factory built
protections are required. If one of the holding nuts comes off, the car will
completely lose its steering, and it will not be a good thing (as Martha
Stewart might say).

Andy

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #552
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