Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 18
2001 Volume 01 : Number
550
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 17 Jul 2001 15:32:10 -0600
From: "
dollen@mac.com" <
dollen@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hired
Guns
At some point in my meager little life I will put together enough
money to
my 3000GT. When I do I would be willing to pay some one to check it
out
for me before I hand over the money for it.
Thus, I thought it may
be worth while to have a listing of people, by
location who are both able and
willing.
In the event that I am alone on this I would like to put out a
call for
3000GT knowledgeable people in Colorado who are for hire in
the
aforementioned regard.
Cameron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 16:29:49
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires
My 94 VR4 runs 245/45-17 Kuhmo race tires/Michelin
Pilot street tires.
I have Eibach springs and the Ground Control adjustable
suspension, and my
car is lowered as much as feasible.
I note that the
tires barely clear the front struts when lowered. If the
tire was any wider,
it would hit the lower spring perch.
I don't recall any clearance problems
in the rear.
My advice to you is NOT to go to a wider tire if you are
planning to lower
the car.
Possibilities:
If you install spacers to
push the front wheels out a half-inch, you'd have
a better chance of clearing
the strut.
Or, you could cut the lower spring perch off (you don't need them
with
Eibachs).
Maybe you should install the Eibach kit first, before
you order tires, and
see how much clearance you have.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
At 04:21 PM 7/17/01 -0500, Hawkinson's wrote:
>I was
looking at plus sizing my stock tires. I know that I want 17"
rims,
>but that is all I know. I have read the FAQ page at least 5
times, but I am
>still in need of some advise. I am getting an
Eibach pro-kit suspension
>upgrade, and I was wondering what the best size
tire is????
>I looked at a 245/45-17, but I don't know if this is the best
wheel for my
>car. Would a 245/40-17 be better?? I would
REALLY like some advise on what
>size to consider.Thanks A
lot.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 14:56:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires
> Possibilities:
> If you install spacers to
push the front wheels out a half-inch, you'd have
> a better chance of
clearing the strut.
> Or, you could cut the lower spring perch off (you
don't need them with
> Eibachs).
- ---
I'll also be impossible to
install yer lug nuts as well. You'll have to
replace the studs with
longer ones with ANY spacer to be safe.
-
---
*******************************************
*New & Improved:
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*
*******************************************
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 16:46:58
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires
But of course.
Spacer and longer studs all come in
a kit.
At least mine did.
Rich
At 02:56 PM 7/17/01 -0700, Geoff
Mohler wrote:
>> Possibilities:
>> If you install spacers to
push the front wheels out a half-inch, you'd have
>> a better chance of
clearing the strut.
>> Or, you could cut the lower spring perch off
(you don't need them with
>> Eibachs).
>---
>I'll also be
impossible to install yer lug nuts as well. You'll have to
>replace
the studs with longer ones with ANY spacer to be
safe.
>
>*******************************************
>*New
& Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
>*******************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 17:54:45
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ECU upgrade
AAM seems to be the ones making all the fuel
component kits for our car. Or
you could just get a aircraft style
plumbing and make your own and get the
rail ported (or AAM makes an upgraded
one)
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
To: Roger Gerl (RTEC)
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, July 16, 2001 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU
upgrade
>Regarding fuel system upgrades, were is everyone getting
larger rails,
>regulators, and larger feed and return lines? Has anyone
used the K&N
>high flow filter?
>
>Rich
>92 Stealth
TT
>
>"Roger Gerl (RTEC)" wrote:
>>
>> > Yeah,
Brian wasn't too positive about the Haltech. He said it
only
works
>> > in batch fire mode for the 6 cyclinder engine and
limits injector
>> > selection.
>>
>> Hmm, I doubt
this as it is a tuning problem for sure. It definitely isn't
>> easy at
all !
>>
>> > Injector limitations with the G-Force
too.
>>
>> No, they aren't a limiting factor as the G-Force
EPROMS are fully
>> programmable. But this is also the weak point as to
find the correct
>> map-values you have to tune it in on a dyno or so
and this is complicated
>> for many people. Therefore a self-tuning
tool is more interesting.
>>
>> Roger
>> 93'3000GT
TT
>>
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 17:20:46
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel system modifications
> AAM seems to be the ones making
all the fuel component kits
> for our car. Or you could just get a
aircraft style plumbing
> and make your own and get the rail ported (or
AAM makes an
> upgraded one)
I'm redoing mine and following the
template from the DSM guys...
http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.htmlI'm
debating on whether or not I should try to use AN10 from the fuel pump
or if
AN06 is sufficient. I haven't even bothered to look at the stock
line
sizes yet though, since my motor has kept me busy to this point.
Figured
I'd do the fuel stuff while I'm waiting for the motor
parts.
I'd guess that the line is the same as the DSM stuff (3/16" ID)
since the
filter on the 3/S is virtually the same as the DSM fuel filter (2
lpm - WAY
low).
Modifications to the DSM design that I'm considering
would be to do:
10AN line from fuel pump to filter
10AN line fomr
filter to a "Y"
06AN lines from "Y" to each rail
06AN lines from rail ends
to a "Y"
10AN line from "Y" to fuel pressure sender adaptor Tee
10AN line
from adaptor to adjustable FPR
10AN line return to fuel tank
I'm not
sure though if all the 10AN would help more than 06AN - it'd
certainly be
easier to stick with 06AN all the way through. You could also
loop the
ends of the fuel rails together with 06AN and even still use the
stock FPR,
but I want to use an aftermarket FPR so I can put my fuel
pressure sender
after the rails.
That little wimpy piece of tubing between the rails
can't be good for high
flow rates though.
To do the "whole shootin'
match" the DSM way with 06AN from the pump and
flow through the rails
sequentially and use the stock FPR its about $225
through Jeg's for the
parts. To just do the weak rail loop is $52.
I dunno...
Thoughts or ideas?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 17:33:44
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: DSM Shootout Rules/Info
Here's some last-minute info for anyone
going to the Shootout. There are
now two classes for 3/S -
3000GT/Stealth and 3000GT/Stealth Quick-8. Very
sweet!
Make sure
you thank David for letting us run at the Shootout!
Oh, and I'll pay for
copies of any video you guys shoot there of 3/S classes
and DSM Q8 and DSM
Powered classes. :-)
Best of luck to anyone who is going!
Make us look good!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
"Wish I was
there..."
Subject: IMPORTANT RULE CHANGES!!!!!! READ READ
READ
From: The4Bangr <
The4Bangr@aol.com>
Date:
17 Jul 2001 11:06:40
-
----------------------------------------------------
Hi guys,
I
have made quite a few changes to the Shootout rules. They should
be
better
for everyone. We will be handing out papers at the
gate. MAKE SURE YOU
READ
THE ENTIRE PAPER. Below you will find
the largest changes I have made. You
will also get a run down of what
is happening for the weekend. Sorry this
came so late. I am just
swamped with life and work. Sorry.
Gates open at 8 am on
Friday. Close at 5 pm. We must leave the track right
at 5
pm.
You can only compete in ONE class at the shootout.
If you
qualify for a Q8 class YOU MUST compete in the Q8.
QUICK 8 CLASSES,
BRACKET CLASSES AND DSM POWERED are the only classes that
do
not have to
have a complete factory interior. They are also the
only
classes
that do not have to have exhaust or factory
windows.
STOCK APPEARING. This class is only open to the 1G
cars. Must have a FULL
factory interior. Any fuel management is
allowed as long as you retain the
factory airbox with two mounting
points. NO Front mounts or externals, no
aftermarket fuel pressure
regulators.
NON TURBO. Any and all mods allowed EXCEPT FOR THE
ADDITION OF A TURBO.
DS ELIMINATOR. Open to all Elicpses, Talons
and Lasers.
2nd Generation. This is now the 2G version of STOCK
APPEARING. 2G cars
only. NO 1g head swaps, intake swaps or 1G
engine swaps.
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE. This is the FWD version of DS
Eliminator.
3000GT/STEALTH. Any mods allowed.
3000GT/STEALTH
QUICK 8. Quickest 8 cars qualify.
There is no longer any minimum
weights since we never have weighed a car.
BUT THE CARS MUST meet the rules
as to appearance. So if you have a car
that
looks complete but
weighs 1,000 pounds that is fine with me.
Immediately following the
Shootout there will be awards given out, technical
questions answered and the
dyno will be available for $25 per pull all at
Buschur Racing. We are
located on Route 20, about 10 miles east of the
racetrack. There will
be cold pop/soda free. We will also be selling parts
if anyone needs
something.
SATURDAY is also full of things to do. The gates open at
the SOUTH end of
the track on Rt. 18 at 8 am. The autocross and car
show will go on all day
long. Following the show/autocross is the
infamous BONFIRE. It is open to
anyone with a GOOD and FUN
attitude. IF you don't have that DON'T show up!
It is held in an open
field in Wakeman. To get there take Rt. 20 east from
the track.
Turn right (south) on Rt. 60. Follow it out of town, you will
cross Rt.
303. After crossing Rt. 303 at the edge of town go to the next
road and
go left. The road is Chenango Rd. and it only goes to the
left.
Continue down Chenango for about 2 miles. The field is on the
left, you
will
see a fairly large garden right next to the road RIGHT
before where you have
to turn into the field. The party starts at 7
pm. Its a good time. DO NOT
PARK IN THE GARDEN, DO NOT TURF MY
GRASS, DO NOT PARK TO CLOSE TO THE FIRE.
Also, Chenango is a very hilly,
narrow road. I live on this road. DO NOT
DRIVE LIKE
ASSHOLES. I would prefer to keep the Sheriff's away so we can
drink and
have fun.
That's about it guys. Thanks alot, hope to see a record
turn out this year
and a record amount of FUN.
David
Buschur
Buschur Racing, Inc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 20:27:59
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fredericksburg anyone?
Hi folks,
Any of you live near
Fredericksburg, VA? I'd like to hear some suggestions
on where to take
my 93 Stealth ES for its 60K maintenance and a clutch
replacement.
Perhaps more importantly, some suggestions on places NOT to
take
it...
So as not to clog the list, please reply to me
privately.
Thanks.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 17:45:21
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tires
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
My 94 VR4 runs 245/45-17 Kuhmo race tires/Michelin Pilot street tires.
> I
have Eibach springs and the Ground Control adjustable suspension, and my
>
car is lowered as much as feasible.
> I note that the tires barely clear
the front struts when lowered. If the
> tire was any wider, it would hit
the lower spring perch.
I thought you had the GC camber plates --- if so
you can adjust the stock camber
setting to max positive, which should give
you increased clearance at the tire/strut
area and then set your GC camber
plate to your desired negative camber. I'm not
sure what the maximum tire
size would be, but I'm running 255 with no
problems.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 20:16:58
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: I am in BIG trouble now
My baby girl and her husband flew down to
Miami and drove back an
absolutely cherry, tomato red 91 Stealth TT. It has
only 41,000 miles and
all the goodies -- Blitz DSBC, Borla, 17 in. wheels,
lowered suspension and
gutted cats. She bought it to be her open track
car, because her husband
was getting downright protective about his 99
Mustang SVT Cobra.
I tried to convince her to join Flash, Mike, Chuck
and me at Heartland Park
in August, but she says she wants to get used to the
car first. So it looks
like we'll be running together at OktoberFast at Road
America in October,
unless we can find a suitable event before
that.
In any case, the ranks of our Stealth/VR4 road racers has been
increased by
one very fast little girl.
Rich/old poop/proud
papa
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:35:32
-0500
From: "Brady" <
HOSTILE@apex2000.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
What is the first mod I should put on a
stock es with 99k?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 20:17:10
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I
am in BIG trouble now
Hey Rich,
off topic, but do you know the
stock proportional settings for the
brake bias in these cars. I'm thinking
its 80% front, 20% rear based on
brake wear etc.?
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
Merritt wrote:
>
> My baby girl and her husband flew down
to Miami and drove back an
> absolutely cherry, tomato red 91 Stealth TT.
It has only 41,000 miles and
> all the goodies -- Blitz DSBC, Borla, 17
in. wheels, lowered suspension and
> gutted cats. She bought it to
be her open track car, because her husband
> was getting downright
protective about his 99 Mustang SVT Cobra.
>
> I tried to convince
her to join Flash, Mike, Chuck and me at Heartland Park
> in August, but
she says she wants to get used to the car first. So it looks
> like we'll
be running together at OktoberFast at Road America in October,
> unless we
can find a suitable event before that.
>
> In any case, the ranks
of our Stealth/VR4 road racers has been increased by
> one very fast
little girl.
>
> Rich/old poop/proud papa
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 23:25:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: I am in BIG trouble now
I don't think it is that much.
Nobody would make that much of a difference.
It must be more like
65/35. The fronts wear more because the car pitches
forward throwing
some 3,000 pounds toward the front and the rear experiences
nearly
nothing. Just drive down the street in reverse at 80 mph and slam
on
the brakes. Then the rears will wear down as badly as the
fronts.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
P.S. DO not attempt to drive down
the road -- it was hypothetical
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Richard
Sent: Tuesday, July
17, 2001 11:17 PM
To: Merritt
Cc:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: I am in BIG trouble now
Hey Rich,
off topic, but do
you know the stock proportional settings for the
brake bias in these cars.
I'm thinking its 80% front, 20% rear based on
brake wear
etc.?
Rich
92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 23:36:48
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Technically it depends on what you are doing
(drag race, open track,
touring, show car, etc.).
Regardless it should
probably be the air filter (K&N).
For drag cars it will be a
front-mounted intercooler (since you don't have
turbos which would call for a
boost controller).
For open track road racing it should be Big Red
brakes.
For touring it should be a compliment of CDs and a recharge on the
A/C unit.
For show car it should be car detailing every week.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 being setup for the open track
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Brady
Sent: Tuesday, July 17,
2001 10:36 PM
What is the first mod I should put on a stock es with
99k?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 23:11:03
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Twin
Turbo Stealth w. Auto trans.
I have no idea of this post qualifies for
this list, but here it is anyway.
In my quest to find an R/T TT I ran
across this ad. According to the ad It
is a 1994 Twin Turbo Stealth
equipped with an automatic transmission.
According to legend a few of
these were produced for Chrysler execs, or
something like that. I don't
think I've ever seen this substantiated.
Maybe this is true. Below is a
link to the ad. Remember that you have to
cut and paste all the lines
together. I have not called on this ad to
verify if it is indeed
true.
Oskar
http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=69114592&dealer_id=&
certified=n&max_price=&start_year=1994&end_year=1994&address=55442&search_ty
pe=used&make=DODGE&model=STEAL&distance=&car_year=1994&ac_afflt=none&borscht
id=14719006980144904311
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:34:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: race videos
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/Thill-6-30-01/On
Tue, 17 Jul 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> > My Thill videos are going online in about 10 minutes...
>
>
>
> Well where are they ??????
>
> Jim
Berry
*******************************************
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*******************************************
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:26:53
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Twin Turbo Stealth w. Auto trans.
Nowhere in the ad does it actually
state that the car has an automatic
transmission. It says "rare auto"
which could easily be construed to mean
it is a rare autombile. In the
context of the ad where it states it has a 6
speed well before the "rare
auto" blurb, I would presume that statement does
not refer to the
transmission. I can see the confusion, but it doesn't make
sense in my
opinion.
Although an automatic may be possible, I rather doubt this is
anything other
than a TT with a six speed transmission. I had not heard
the lore regarding
automatics in TTs and I highly doubt it would have been a
six speed in any
case since I do not believe Chrysler makes (or has
available) one from which
to choose.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> I have no idea of this post qualifies for
this list, but here it
> is anyway.
>
> In my quest to find an
R/T TT I ran across this ad. According to
> the ad It
> is a
1994 Twin Turbo Stealth equipped with an automatic transmission.
>
>
According to legend a few of these were produced for Chrysler execs, or
>
something like that. I don't think I've ever seen this
substantiated.
> Maybe this is true. Below is a link to the
ad. Remember that you have to
> cut and paste all the lines
together. I have not called on this ad to
> verify if it is indeed
true.
>
> Oskar
>
>
http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=69114592&d>
ealer_id=&
>
certified=n&max_price=&start_year=1994&end_year=1994&address=55442
>
&search_ty
>
pe=used&make=DODGE&model=STEAL&distance=&car_year=1994&ac_afflt=no
>
ne&borscht
> id=14719006980144904311
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 00:31:00
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Twin
Turbo Stealth w. Auto trans.
Here is the text of the ad for anyone who
has problems with that massive
link:
1994 DODGE STEALTH RT, TWIN
TURBO, 6spd, all wheel drive, 64000 miles, nice
& fast, rare auto,
$13000
Am I the only one who sees the problem with this?
Jeff
V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Oskar
Sent: Wednesday, July
18, 2001 12:11 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Twin Turbo Stealth w. Auto
trans.
I have no idea of this post qualifies for this list, but here it
is anyway.
In my quest to find an R/T TT I ran across this ad.
According to the ad It
is a 1994 Twin Turbo Stealth equipped with an
automatic transmission.
According to legend a few of these were produced
for Chrysler execs, or
something like that. I don't think I've ever
seen this substantiated.
Maybe this is true. Below is a link to the
ad. Remember that you have to
cut and paste all the lines
together. I have not called on this ad to
verify if it is indeed
true.
Oskar
http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=69114592&dealer_id=&
certified=n&max_price=&start_year=1994&end_year=1994&address=55442&search_ty
pe=used&make=DODGE&model=STEAL&distance=&car_year=1994&ac_afflt=none&borscht
id=14719006980144904311
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 00:36:33
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Automatic AWD transmissions
There were two Stealth turbos produced with
"W" code transmissions. One had
Federal emissions, the other had
California. No one knows for sure, but the
speculation is that these
were prototypes for the never-sold-in-North
America automatic AWD.
Mitsubishi does indeed have an automatic AWD
gearbox. It was found in
the Japanese market GTO SR model. AWD, non turbo.
5 spd trans standard,
4 spd auto optional.
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 23:43:34
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Twin Turbo Stealth w. Auto trans.
Oops - my bad. For some reason I
failed to see the 6-spd. Please don't
slap my hand - I'll do it
myself.
Oskar
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry E.
King" <
beking@home.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2001 11:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Twin Turbo Stealth w.
Auto trans.
> Nowhere in the ad does it actually state that the
car has an automatic
> transmission. It says "rare auto" which could
easily be construed to mean
> it is a rare autombile. In the context
of the ad where it states it has a
6
> speed well before the "rare
auto" blurb, I would presume that statement
does
> not refer to the
transmission. I can see the confusion, but it doesn't
make
>
sense in my opinion.
>
> Although an automatic may be possible, I
rather doubt this is anything
other
> than a TT with a six speed
transmission. I had not heard the lore
regarding
> automatics in
TTs and I highly doubt it would have been a six speed in any
> case since
I do not believe Chrysler makes (or has available) one from
which
> to
choose.
>
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > I have no idea of this post qualifies for this list,
but here it
> > is anyway.
> >
> > In my quest to
find an R/T TT I ran across this ad. According to
> > the ad
It
> > is a 1994 Twin Turbo Stealth equipped with an automatic
transmission.
> >
> > According to legend a few of these were
produced for Chrysler execs, or
> > something like that. I don't
think I've ever seen this substantiated.
> > Maybe this is true.
Below is a link to the ad. Remember that you have
to
> > cut
and paste all the lines together. I have not called on this ad to
>
> verify if it is indeed true.
> >
> > Oskar
>
>
> >
http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=69114592&d>
> ealer_id=&
> >
certified=n&max_price=&start_year=1994&end_year=1994&address=55442
>
> &search_ty
> >
pe=used&make=DODGE&model=STEAL&distance=&car_year=1994&ac_afflt=no
>
> ne&borscht
> > id=14719006980144904311
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:50:10
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Motor pictures
OUCH! Did I miss it, or did you ever tell us
"what" or "how" this happened?
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 16, 2001 9:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: Motor pictures
>
For those of you that were interested in seeing pictures of the damage
to
my
> motor, here's the first batch of the internals...
Ugh. This is not going
> to be a fun project...
>
>
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/index.htm>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 00:15:25
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
> Regardless it should probably be
the air filter (K&N).
Agreed... Also if it contains the
resonator on the intake pipe that can be
removed to possibly give a few more
ponies on the top-end.
> For drag cars it will be a front-mounted
intercooler
> (since you don't have turbos which would call for a
>
boost controller).
No turbos means no intercooler. Perhaps some
form of cold-air intake would
help, but an intercooler would be overkill and
probably provide more
restriction in the intake than its worth on a
naturally-aspirated car.
> For open track road racing it should be Big
Red brakes.
....or on a ES you could upgrade to VR4/TT brakes and have
sufficient
braking since there's quite a bit less weight to slow
down.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 01:21:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mods for a stock es?
Thanks, Matt.
> No turbos means no
intercooler.
Sorry - I meant a radiator that will cool the car and create
good cold air
or combine that with a cold air intake.
>....or
on a ES you could upgrade to VR4/TT brakes and have sufficient
> braking
since there's quite a bit less weight to slow down.
I think we've
discovered that ALL levels of 3/S cars can benefit from Big
Reds and not the
second gen VR-4 brakes. Or better cooling rotors
(directionally veined
perhaps like Supra or Porsche rotors).
- --Flash!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 00:28:10
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
> OUCH! Did I miss it, or did you
ever tell us "what"
> or "how" this happened?
I thought I posted
something on it before, but maybe that was just to the
local Minnesota
list.
Basically a couple months ago I had HKS intercoolers put on, and
the 60K
service done. The shop that put the intercoolers on didn't
notice that the
couple extra mounting holes in the intercoolers went all the
way through the
endtanks so they didn't put bolts in the holes since there
was no bracket to
bolt them to on my car. My car was sucking in dirt,
sand, etc. whenever not
on boost (and I was having a hell of a time adjusting
my ARC-2).
At one of the MN 3/S gatherings I took Oskar for a ride in the
car to let
him feel the 15G's and went down an entrance ramp, through 2nd
gear to
redline and through 3rd to redline. At the top of 3rd I let off
the gas and
the car bucked a little bit and then the motor just plain
quit. We coasted
off to the shoulder and the car wouldn't start.
I thought maybe the Y-pipe
popped off (never happened to me, but there's
always a first time). We
looked there first and the Y-pipe was still
fine. Checked the visible
joints on the HKS pipe kit - that looked
okay. Tried to start the car and
it actually did start, but was only
running on four cylinders (or so).
Drove it a short distance to Oskar's house
and pulled the plugs. Two of the
plugs' electrodes were smashed into
the ceramic insulator.
We looked into the bores with a small flashlight
and the piston crowns
themselves looked perfect, so I decided to just try
putting new plugs in.
Put them in and the car worked perfectly. Took
the car home and re-pulled
the plugs and performed compression tests on all
six cylinders. All were
between 145 and 150 psi - no problems
there. While I was working on it, I
decided to do an intake leak test
so I built one of Vineet's pressure
testers and hooked it up. Putting
20 psi of pressure into the intake
resulted in 0 psi in the intake - that's
how I discovered the open bolt
holes in the intercoolers. Plugged those
holes with appropriate
bolts/lockwashers/loctite so that's fixed. The
shop said HKS made a change
to the intercooler design and didn't tell
them. Bummer for me.
So I drove the car for a couple months with no
problems, when I did the same
thing as when the initial trouble
occured... Same set of circumstances and
this time the car did the same
things, but a knocking sound accompanied the
rest of the bad things. I
stopped the car and got it home. Did the same
set of diagnostic steps
and when I tested compression the rear bank was down
substantially (I don't
have the figures in front of me, but the #4 cylinder
was 115 psi and was the
worst of the six).
At that point I decided to tear down the motor and
find out what's going on
and that's what resulted in the pictures on my
website. Both times it
happened I was seeing high O2 voltages (above
.95v) and was spraying water
injection with boost at about 17 psi. The
strange thing is that it ran
great while on the gas, it was just after
letting off the throttle when the
problems happened both times. I think
the initial incident caused the
problem and the second time is when the
problem spread enough to actually
break apart the pistons.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 17 Jul 2001 22:47:38
-0700
From:
kristie1@thesimpsons.comSubject:
Team3S: NOS System Setup
Does anyone know about where we could get the
best price on a NOS setup for our cars?
Kristie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 23:12:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NOS System Setup
NOS isnt something youbuy like spark plugs
for the best price.
Find local shop that knows this stuff, and work
-with- them on the kit,
what you want out of it, and to learn
from.
its a whole new ball game.
On 17 Jul 2001
kristie1@thesimpsons.com
wrote:
> Does anyone know about where we could get the best price on a
NOS setup for our cars?
>
Kristie
*******************************************
*New &
Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*******************************************
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 18 Jul 2001 06:18:09
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: supra fuel pump on Ebay current $128 ends today
I found a supra
twint turbo fuel pump(toyota #23221-46110, = denso #195130-1020) on e-bay that
ends today for $128. It is new, and being sold by a guy who was going to
install it in his MR-2.
Below is the link, I was going to buy it
because it was a great deal but my modifications don't need it yet...
http://mail.altavista.com//jump/http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593362377Are
there any side effects to installing a high flow pump? I was thinking of
installing this pump with stock injectors.
Jeff Lucius' site listed that this
pump was as quiet as stock. The fuel economy shouldn't change unless my
stock fuel pump was leaning out the engine.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.comFind
the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 22:46:54
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
Please tell me this shop is taking some
responsibility, and paying for
part of your piston damage. It sounds
like it may have been a major
factor. The engine would never have known
the correct amount of air in
the system, and there's no telling what effect
it would have had on your
pistons...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Wednesday, July 18, 2001 12:28 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
> OUCH! Did I miss it, or did you
ever tell us "what"
> or "how" this happened?
I thought I posted
something on it before, but maybe that was just to
the
local Minnesota
list.
Basically a couple months ago I had HKS intercoolers put on, and
the 60K
service done. The shop that put the intercoolers on didn't
notice that
the
couple extra mounting holes in the intercoolers went all
the way through
the
endtanks so they didn't put bolts in the holes since
there was no
bracket to
bolt them to on my car. My car was sucking
in dirt, sand, etc. whenever
not
on boost (and I was having a hell of a
time adjusting my ARC-2).
At one of the MN 3/S gatherings I took Oskar
for a ride in the car to
let
him feel the 15G's and went down an entrance
ramp, through 2nd gear to
redline and through 3rd to redline. At the
top of 3rd I let off the gas
and
the car bucked a little bit and then the
motor just plain quit. We
coasted
off to the shoulder and the car
wouldn't start. I thought maybe the
Y-pipe
popped off (never
happened to me, but there's always a first time). We
looked there first
and the Y-pipe was still fine. Checked the visible
joints on the HKS
pipe kit - that looked okay. Tried to start the car
and
it actually
did start, but was only running on four cylinders (or so).
Drove it a short
distance to Oskar's house and pulled the plugs. Two of
the
plugs'
electrodes were smashed into the ceramic insulator.
We looked into the
bores with a small flashlight and the piston crowns
themselves looked
perfect, so I decided to just try putting new plugs
in.
Put them in and
the car worked perfectly. Took the car home and
re-pulled
the plugs
and performed compression tests on all six cylinders.
All
were
between 145 and 150 psi - no problems there. While I was
working on it,
I
decided to do an intake leak test so I built one of
Vineet's pressure
testers and hooked it up. Putting 20 psi of pressure
into the intake
resulted in 0 psi in the intake - that's how I discovered the
open bolt
holes in the intercoolers. Plugged those holes with
appropriate
bolts/lockwashers/loctite so that's fixed. The shop said
HKS made a
change
to the intercooler design and didn't tell them.
Bummer for me.
So I drove the car for a couple months with no problems,
when I did the
same
thing as when the initial trouble occured...
Same set of circumstances
and
this time the car did the same things, but a
knocking sound accompanied
the
rest of the bad things. I stopped the
car and got it home. Did the
same
set of diagnostic steps and when I
tested compression the rear bank was
down
substantially (I don't have the
figures in front of me, but the #4
cylinder
was 115 psi and was the worst
of the six).
At that point I decided to tear down the motor and find out
what's going
on
and that's what resulted in the pictures on my
website. Both times it
happened I was seeing high O2 voltages (above
.95v) and was spraying
water
injection with boost at about 17 psi.
The strange thing is that it ran
great while on the gas, it was just after
letting off the throttle when
the
problems happened both times. I
think the initial incident caused the
problem and the second time is when the
problem spread enough to
actually
break apart the pistons.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 08:57:07
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
As god as my witness ....... I will never let
a "Dealer" touch my car. Even
with the drive thru oil changing places I find
myself upset with the sloppy
work of those guys as well. Loose oil drain
plugs, too much oil...not
enough oil. "hey your car is done....1,200.00
please and here is a small
box of left over bolts that you get as a
"bonus"............now will that
be cash or charge?"
My recent
episode with a Dodge dealer that wanted me to replace my master
cylinder for
450.00 only to stumble across the fusible link for a whopping
$9.28. (god
bless this board)
I have been seriously considering painting my hood to
remove a bad rock
chip problem and will turn my garage into a
booth.........My mistakes don't
upset me, they teach me. It would push me
over the edge to pay a shop
400.00 to paint my hood and have sags in the
clear coat or orange peel.
In short, I find the information on this board
both educational to
entertaining. Kudo's for all who
help.
JMHO....I'm off the box now
Bob K.
93' R/T
FIPK
KV85's
Bradi cross drilled and slotted rotors
New 17" wheels and 245/45's
by Monday
.......to be continued
Supporting wife.....:)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: cody [SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 18, 2001 8:47 PM
To: 'Jannusch, Matt';
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
Please tell me this shop is taking some
responsibility, and paying for
part of your piston damage. It sounds
like it may have been a major
factor. The engine would never have known
the correct amount of air in
the system, and there's no telling what effect
it would have had on your
pistons...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Wednesday, July 18, 2001 12:28 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
> OUCH! Did I miss it, or did you
ever tell us "what"
> or "how" this happened?
I thought I posted
something on it before, but maybe that was just to
the
local Minnesota
list.
Basically a couple months ago I had HKS intercoolers put on, and
the 60K
service done. The shop that put the intercoolers on didn't
notice that
the
couple extra mounting holes in the intercoolers went all
the way through
the
endtanks so they didn't put bolts in the holes since
there was no
bracket to
bolt them to on my car. My car was sucking
in dirt, sand, etc. whenever
not
on boost (and I was having a hell of a
time adjusting my ARC-2).
At one of the MN 3/S gatherings I took Oskar
for a ride in the car to
let
him feel the 15G's and went down an entrance
ramp, through 2nd gear to
redline and through 3rd to redline. At the
top of 3rd I let off the gas
and
the car bucked a little bit and then the
motor just plain quit. We
coasted
off to the shoulder and the car
wouldn't start. I thought maybe the
Y-pipe
popped off (never
happened to me, but there's always a first time). We
looked there first
and the Y-pipe was still fine. Checked the visible
joints on the HKS
pipe kit - that looked okay. Tried to start the car
and
it actually
did start, but was only running on four cylinders (or so).
Drove it a short
distance to Oskar's house and pulled the plugs. Two of
the
plugs'
electrodes were smashed into the ceramic insulator.
We looked into the
bores with a small flashlight and the piston crowns
themselves looked
perfect, so I decided to just try putting new plugs
in.
Put them in and
the car worked perfectly. Took the car home and
re-pulled
the plugs
and performed compression tests on all six cylinders.
All
were
between 145 and 150 psi - no problems there. While I was
working on it,
I
decided to do an intake leak test so I built one of
Vineet's pressure
testers and hooked it up. Putting 20 psi of pressure
into the intake
resulted in 0 psi in the intake - that's how I discovered the
open bolt
holes in the intercoolers. Plugged those holes with
appropriate
bolts/lockwashers/loctite so that's fixed. The shop said
HKS made a
change
to the intercooler design and didn't tell them.
Bummer for me.
So I drove the car for a couple months with no problems,
when I did the
same
thing as when the initial trouble occured...
Same set of circumstances
and
this time the car did the same things, but a
knocking sound accompanied
the
rest of the bad things. I stopped the
car and got it home. Did the
same
set of diagnostic steps and when I
tested compression the rear bank was
down
substantially (I don't have the
figures in front of me, but the #4
cylinder
was 115 psi and was the worst
of the six).
At that point I decided to tear down the motor and find out
what's going
on
and that's what resulted in the pictures on my
website. Both times it
happened I was seeing high O2 voltages (above
.95v) and was spraying
water
injection with boost at about 17 psi.
The strange thing is that it ran
great while on the gas, it was just after
letting off the throttle when
the
problems happened both times. I
think the initial incident caused the
problem and the second time is when the
problem spread enough to
actually
break apart the pistons.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 11:05:54
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
> As god as my witness ....... I will never
let a "Dealer"
> touch my car.
Unfortunately, in my case it was
one of the very well-known 3/S shops who
did the work. On a brighter
note though, they did the timing belt
replacement perfectly. I'm not
going to name names until there's either a
positive resolution or a negative
one though. Gotta give them a chance to
"make things right", so I'm
hopeful on getting the positive resolution.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 11:10:45
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor pictures
I hope they are reading this - but I would
hate to see another 3/S
shop's name go in my "never call or buy from them
list" as I already
have two of them... I hop they realize how
much of an opportunity they
have to either make ~real~ good, or ~real~ bad on
what they have done...
Wonder if the shops know how much we rely on each
others experiences on
here....
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Wednesday, July 18, 2001 11:06 AM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Motor pictures
> As god as my witness ....... I will never let a
"Dealer"
> touch my car.
Unfortunately, in my case it was one of
the very well-known 3/S shops
who
did the work. On a brighter note
though, they did the timing belt
replacement perfectly. I'm not going
to name names until there's either
a
positive resolution or a negative one
though. Gotta give them a chance
to
"make things right", so I'm
hopeful on getting the positive resolution.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 12:56:32
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Skip Barber Racing/Driving School?
Dave,
I
had a friend go to either a Skip Barber school or something similar
where
they used Formula Ford or Formula Mazda. Regardless they were the
small
miniature F1 cars and open cockpit. He said those taught you more
because
you could see the suspension, wheels, tires, etc. in real time when a
car
does not show this.
The problem is for a DE you need to have your
own car and Dave's is in the
shop now. That also means a driving school
supplies their own cars and you
are more prone to spin them off the track
since it is not your car.
What these driving events do teach though is
how to set the car up properly
(or how not to set it up) but bleeding brakes,
flushing radiators,
suspension, tires, wheels, etc. I learn just as
much about driving at these
things than I do on maintenance on the car, how
to set it up better next
time and things like that.
I do agree though
that seat time is better. I have been to two driving
events with the
Porsche club and would love to have more and more available.
However, it is
hard sometimes to get into the local Porsche, BMW, Audi, etc.
club for these
and you might have an easier time getting into TrackTime,
Driving Ambitions,
etc. driving schools.
The last instructor I had teaches in one of these
if you would like his name
(email me privately).
- --Flash!
dschlberg@pobox.comwww.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com[mailto:owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 12:34
PM
The Skip Barber School has a good reputation. However, I still
say that you
take the $4000, divide it into $200 increments and you attend 20
of the
two-day Drivers Education events at your local Porsche Club and you
are
getting a better experience than five days in someone else's
car.
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 13:13:15
-0400
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Right
Front Tire Squeals
Thanks Chuck,
>How fast are you cornering on
the street? You can wear out the outer edges
>by aggressive driving,
even if your alignment is correct.
Like a senior citizen most of the
time... :) It appears only the right front
outside edge has a bit of extra
wear.
>Of the four VR4's we've owned ALL had the right front wheel
hanging down
>lower than the left front.
>
>My cars always
squeal tires in the parking garages.
So this is a common problem ? From
the factory or is something breaking in
a lot of TT's/VR-4's
?
Strangely, I tried to reproduce this problem with cold tires today
and
couldn't.
I had a private email saying the lower control arm
bushings might be shot.
I looked at the bushings as best I could and tried
wiggling the tires/wheels
but no clues there.
I took a closer look at
the sway bar links and noted that, with the car at
rest,
the drivers side
link is tilted somewhat at the top to the center of the car,
while the
passenger side link looks almost straight
vertical.
Thanks,
Mike.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 10:15:31
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Skip Barber Racing/Driving School?
> Anyone ever attend either Skip
Barber Racing or Driving School? I have
the chance to go to one of my
choice within reason (probably under $4000)
and I'm not sure which one I
should look into. If anyone has any personal
experience with any of
these, please let me know as I need to make the
decision by the end of the
week. Mucho Gracias!
> Dave '95 VR-4
> (Check out the ULTIMATE
3000GT/Stealth Resource at
> <
http://www.daveblack.net>)
-
---------------------------
I did the driving school (ancient history -
before it was a major industry),
but now you have to use some POS mid-size
Mitsu or Dodge instead of your own
car. It's pricey, but if you want a
school, they are the best. I
personally think that since you've got
some track experience, you'd be
better off with running at every NASA event
you can get to, and running with
one of the clubs who allow 'foreigners'
(BMWCC, PACA, Vette club). Get a
'mentor' (personal instructor - info
on the NASA website) and work with them
about learning how to drive/race in
*your* car. {What Rich Merritt has been
doing for a couple of years at
various tracks and with " 'ol farmer dude
Jeff Lacina" (a 'stanger') is a
great model about learning how to race your
car}. See our Team3S "Race
Reports" Pages. JMHO...
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 14:01:06
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Right Front Tire Squeals
I don't think the right front tire
hanging down lower is a problem, just a
"feature".
If only the right
front tire has outer edge wear, I can't believe your
alignment is correct for
that wheel.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Michael Reid [SMTP:mreid@magma.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 12:13
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Right Front Tire Squeals
>
> Thanks Chuck,
>
> >How fast are you cornering on the street? You can wear out
the outer
> edges
> >by aggressive driving, even if your
alignment is correct.
>
> Like a senior citizen most of the time...
:) It appears only the right
> front
> outside edge has a bit of
extra wear.
>
> >Of the four VR4's we've owned ALL had the right
front wheel hanging down
> >lower than the left front.
>
>
> >My cars always squeal tires in the parking garages.
>
> So this is a common problem ? From the factory or is something breaking
in
> a lot of TT's/VR-4's ?
>
> Strangely, I tried to
reproduce this problem with cold tires today and
> couldn't.
>
> I had a private email saying the lower control arm bushings might be
shot.
> I looked at the bushings as best I could and tried wiggling
the
> tires/wheels
> but no clues there.
>
> I took a
closer look at the sway bar links and noted that, with the car at
>
rest,
> the drivers side link is tilted somewhat at the top to the center
of the
> car,
> while the passenger side link looks almost straight
vertical.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#550
***************************************