Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, July 17
2001 Volume 01 : Number
549
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:21:58 -0400
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Engine
Mounts broken ?
Hi all,
94 TT, 70,000 miles, stock suspension,
wheels, tires (Goodyear GSC 245/45ZR17)
32 PSI front, 29 PSI rear.
Symptom 1: On low speed (10-15 mph) left hand downhill turns my front
right
tire squeals since about a month ago. (I think it's the front, pretty
sure
it's right side.) This is in a parking garage going down
and
counter-clockwise,
ie left turn. This doesn't happen with right turns
going up. May be partly due
to slick floor.
Symptom 2: 4 months ago
mechanic noticed with car on hoist that one front
wheel
hung lower than
other. Didn't know why. Also front sway bar/link in different
position on
each side.
Background: 2 1/2 years ago was normally pulling away from
stop and heard a
loud
bang from front. Looked under car, no probs, drove
normally it seemed.
1 1/2 years ago the front tires were replaced as
inside edge had steel belt
sticking thru !! I didn't normally look at the
inside edge so had no idea
until
one went flat ! Took car for 4 wheel
alignment and was told alignment was VERY
agressive. They aligned to normal.
Now front tires wear a lot on outside edge. Right side of car (front and
back)
seems to be 3/8 " or about 1 centimeter higher than the left. The tires
all
seem
level at level rest, but perhaps the steering is messed up ?
So does it sound like one or more engine mounts are broken and messing
with my
alignment ? Or might some suspension part or tranny mount be broken ?
Thanks...
Mike.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:09:05
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Mounts broken ?
> Symptom 1: On low speed (10-15
mph) left hand downhill turns
> my front right tire squeals since about a
month ago. (I think
> it's the front, pretty sure it's right side.) This
is in a
> parking garage going down and counter-clockwise, ie left
> turn. This doesn't happen with right turns going up. May be
>
partly due to slick floor.
This one might not necessarily be a
problem. Does it happen right away, or
after a little while of going
through that turn? Could be that once the
center diff sees a difference
in rotation rates between front/rear axles it
starts to lock and the
squealing is just from being at a high angle of turn.
Could squeal worse
going downhill than uphill because the car is pushing out
towards that corner
harder than if it were going uphill.
> Symptom 2: 4 months ago
mechanic noticed with car on hoist
> that one front wheel hung lower than
other. Didn't know why.
> Also front sway bar/link in different position
on each side.
Sway bar and end links should both be identical on each
side. Sounds like
one of the links somehow is on upside down - this
could cause some strange
handling problems.
> Background: 2 1/2
years ago was normally pulling away from
> stop and heard a loud bang
from front. Looked under car, no
> probs, drove normally it seemed.
Could've been an end link inverting, although I didn't think that
was
possible. Can't think of circumstances that would cause that to
happen
spontaneously.
> So does it sound like one or more engine
mounts are broken
> and messing with my alignment ? Or might some
suspension part
> or tranny mount be broken ?
Broken motor mounts
won't change alignment. Alignment is all handled in the
suspension
components.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 16:32:02
-0400
From: Michael Reid <
mreid@magma.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Engine Mounts broken ?
Thanks Matt,
At 03:09 PM 7/16/2001 -0500,
Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>> Symptom 1: On low speed (10-15 mph) left hand
downhill turns
>> my front right tire squeals since about a month
ago.
>
>This one might not necessarily be a problem.
Why did
it start a month ago though ? Something's different.
Only other time it
happened was when my alignment was wacked
and I was unknowingly riding on the
inside steel belt wires.
Hmm, I wonder if a tire belt has slipped ? I've
seen that on
a car I had in the 80's...
>Does it happen right away,
or
>after a little while of going through that turn?
After a bit of
turn. In the garage I must turn before descending
and it seems to start when
the car starts going down. Normal
level right hand turns on the same surface
don't do this.
>Could squeal worse going downhill than uphill because
the car is pushing out
>towards that corner harder than if it were going
uphill.
I think you may be right but think this is a contributing factor,
not the
underlying cause.
>Could've been an end link inverting,
although I didn't think that was
>possible. Can't think of
circumstances that would cause that to happen
>spontaneously.
I'll
look again but I recall both being more or less normal/vertical, but
at
definitely different angles. (On a hoist at least, may be closer on
ground.)
Car hasn't been abused so I can only imagine something in front
suspension
bent or broke spontaneously.
Mike.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 16:04:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Mounts broken ?
Of the four VR4's we've owned ALL had
the right front wheel hanging down
lower than the left front.
My cars
always squeal tires in the parking garages.
How fast are you cornering on
the street? You can wear out the outer edges
by aggressive driving,
even if your alignment is correct.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Michael Reid [SMTP:mreid@magma.ca]
> Sent:
Monday, July 16, 2001 3:32 PM
> To: Jannusch, Matt;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine Mounts broken ?
>
> Thanks
Matt,
>
> At 03:09 PM 7/16/2001 -0500, Jannusch, Matt
wrote:
> >> Symptom 1: On low speed (10-15 mph) left hand downhill
turns
> >> my front right tire squeals since about a month
ago.
> >
> >This one might not necessarily be a
problem.
>
> Why did it start a month ago though ? Something's
different.
> Only other time it happened was when my alignment was
wacked
> and I was unknowingly riding on the inside steel belt
wires.
>
> Hmm, I wonder if a tire belt has slipped ? I've seen
that on
> a car I had in the 80's...
>
> >Does it happen
right away, or
> >after a little while of going through that
turn?
>
> After a bit of turn. In the garage I must turn before
descending
> and it seems to start when the car starts going down.
Normal
> level right hand turns on the same surface don't do this.
>
> >Could squeal worse going downhill than uphill because the car is
pushing
> out
> >towards that corner harder than if it were going
uphill.
>
> I think you may be right but think this is a
contributing factor, not the
> underlying cause.
>
>
>Could've been an end link inverting, although I didn't think that
was
> >possible. Can't think of circumstances that would cause
that to happen
> >spontaneously.
>
> I'll look again but I
recall both being more or less normal/vertical, but
> at
>
definitely different angles. (On a hoist at least, may be closer on
>
ground.)
>
> Car hasn't been abused so I can only imagine something
in front suspension
> bent or broke spontaneously.
>
>
Mike.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 23:30:32
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU upgrades
> So are you just recommending the ARC
standalone. Sounds like that was
> Brians recommendation now
too.
Sure, it is initiated by Brian. I for myself liek the ARC but the
more the
engine is tuned the harder it is to set-up the ARC. I currently have
lots of
problems with the first minute after firing up the engine as well as
onyl
one click more or less makes a lot more difference than vefore with
smaller
turbos and unported heads. It's maybe time for an additional
fine-tuning
part or a compensation unit for the
ARC.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 23:34:40
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU upgrade
> My conversations with Brian at GT Pro
indicate the product he is
> developing is a new, custom ECU specifically
designed for our cars. He has
> had two prototypes since 7May01. Results
TBD (to be determined).
Well, I know some stuff behind this prototype so
we will see when the
product is alive and real.
> It won't be cheap
but it will do everything except fix you
> breakfast.
Well, not
really but we all will see then.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 23:28:02
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU upgrade
> Yeah, Brian wasn't too positive about the
Haltech. He said it only works
> in batch fire mode for the 6 cyclinder
engine and limits injector
> selection.
Hmm, I doubt this as it is
a tuning problem for sure. It definitely isn't
easy at all !
>
Injector limitations with the G-Force too.
No, they aren't a limiting
factor as the G-Force EPROMS are fully
programmable. But this is also the
weak point as to find the correct
map-values you have to tune it in on a dyno
or so and this is complicated
for many people. Therefore a self-tuning tool
is more interesting.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:22:13
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ECU upgrade
Regarding fuel system upgrades, were is everyone getting
larger rails,
regulators, and larger feed and return lines? Has anyone used
the K&N
high flow filter?
Rich
92 Stealth TT
"Roger Gerl
(RTEC)" wrote:
>
> > Yeah, Brian wasn't too positive about the
Haltech. He said it only works
> > in batch fire mode for the 6
cyclinder engine and limits injector
> > selection.
>
>
Hmm, I doubt this as it is a tuning problem for sure. It definitely
isn't
> easy at all !
>
> > Injector limitations with the
G-Force too.
>
> No, they aren't a limiting factor as the G-Force
EPROMS are fully
> programmable. But this is also the weak point as to
find the correct
> map-values you have to tune it in on a dyno or so and
this is complicated
> for many people. Therefore a self-tuning tool is
more interesting.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 19:31:13
-0400
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Augh
reverse dont work :(
Augh. Frustration is setting in now :( I recently
changed my clutch (2 weeks
ago) following the directions found here.
everything went great, clutch
works perfect, i can definately feel the
difference, and believe the old
clutch was slipping since I purchased the
car, the difference is that
noticable. Well 2 days ago, i went to back my car
out of the driveway, I
could not get the shifter into reverse, i could engage
1st through 5th no
prob, but no reverse, after about a minute of playing with
the shifter (not
trying to force anything) it fell into place. Well it
occurred again
yesterday 3x, and now today, I can not engage reverse at all.
that is the
only gear giving me a prob ;( are my synchros going bad, or is it
possible
that I messed something up? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanx in
advance.
Ron Zilinsky
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 21:01:03
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Augh reverse dont work :(
- -----Original Message-----
Date: Sun, 15
Jul 2001 12:09:58 -0500
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Alcohol injection
1. Pure denatured alcohol doesn't change O2's
while spraying...Isopropyl
does.
2. EGT's drop dramatically while running
a well tuned alcohol system. My
EGT's dropped 100-150F at WOT at the same
boost level. Burning a valve
becomes LESS of a problem
-
----------------------
Same here. After 6 months with the
SMC/Denatured no problems at all.
I also tested water/denatured mixes in
different percentages, Isopropyl, Iso
and
water ( all water used was
distilled off course) at different percentages,
just water etc etc
By
far the best results I obtained was with the pure denatured mix.
I
wasn't really that
surprised since extensive testing by others has
already shown that to be the
case.
The only thing I haven't tried is
methanol. I just recently located
(according to a friend)
a local
source for it but I still need to verify that I can run it in the
SMC
setup.
Overall - more boost with less knock - plain and simple.
Verified with the
datalogger.
A lifesaver with 91 octane.
Now if
only I could just send and receive emails through the Live list!
- -
tds
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 21:23:08
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Augh reverse dont work :( 2
Since it appears I may be going
through
the Live side (for today) here are some
test results posted on the
GN site:
John Estill's calcs:
Water injection: 0.40 lb/min of
water will vaporize, cooling the air down
from 150 F to 109
F.
Methanol:
100%: 1.08 lb/min of methanol will vaporize, cooling the
air from 150 F to
96 F.
50%: 0.55 lb/min of methanol/water will vaporize,
cooling the air from 150 F
to 107 F
Ethanol: [Denatured
Alcohol]
100%: 1.26 lb/min of ethanol will vaporize, cooling the air from 150
F to
100 F.
50%: 0.57 lb/min of ethanol/water will vaporize, cooling the
air from 150 F
to 108 F
Isopropyl:
70%: 0.76 lb/min of alcohol will
vaporize, cooling the air from 150 F to 107
F.
91%: 1.14 lb/min of alcohol
will vaporize, cooling the air from 150 F to 104
F.
100: 1.50 lb/min of
alcohol will vaporize, cooling the air from 150 F to 102
- -
tds
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 20:05:13
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Augh reverse dont work :( 2
Looks like plain old water gives the most
bang for your buck ----unless
you're running 90 to 100% alcohol you're only
picking up one or two
degrees of cooling. If that's the case why is the
addition of alcohol
recommended --- what properties does it posses that makes
it better
than water [ other than as an antifreeze
].
James
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Todd D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
> Since it
appears I may be going through
> the Live side (for today) here are
some
> test results posted on the GN site:
>
>
> John
Estill's calcs:
>
> Water injection: 0.40 lb/min of water will
vaporize, cooling the air down
> from 150 F to 109 F.
>
>
Methanol:
> 100%: 1.08 lb/min of methanol will vaporize, cooling the air
from 150 F to
> 96 F.
> 50%: 0.55 lb/min of methanol/water will
vaporize, cooling the air from 150 F
> to 107 F
>
> Ethanol:
[Denatured Alcohol]
> 100%: 1.26 lb/min of ethanol will vaporize, cooling
the air from 150 F to
> 100 F.
> 50%: 0.57 lb/min of ethanol/water
will vaporize, cooling the air from 150 F
> to 108 F
>
>
Isopropyl:
> 70%: 0.76 lb/min of alcohol will vaporize, cooling the air
from 150 F to 107
> F.
> 91%: 1.14 lb/min of alcohol will vaporize,
cooling the air from 150 F to 104
> F.
> 100: 1.50 lb/min of alcohol
will vaporize, cooling the air from 150 F to 102
>
> -
tds
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 22:58:27
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Team3S:
Denatured alc injection
Denatured - 100% cooled 9 degrees better in
John's testing
than water.
For me - with my setup - it was the
difference between
running 2-3 more PSI boost safely or not.
That's a
good bit of difference in my case.
Supposedly the evaporitive properties
of the
alc during combustion is the reason for the superior
performance. I have a booksized file of info saved
somewhere
explaining the why. Me? - All I know is that it
*works*.
I tried water - believe me I wish it was better since 1 gal dis
water
= 99 cents and 1 gal pure alc = $9! But it's not - even a 75%
alc
and 25% water mix was "sub-par" for my needs.
I was seeing knock
as low as 1 bar without alc (any) injection.
Now I run 18+ psi safely
according to the datalogger.
I can't do that with water or alc/water
mix.
Interestingly - the hotter the outside ambient temps, the
higher
the boost I can safely run with alc.
(Due to less dense air I
suppose)
In the dead of winter (<= 50 deg F) I'm limited to 18 on 91
pump gas.
(368s) But power is very good.
Guess I should change the
subject header now? (I've been cutting
and pasting from Digests - forgot to
change sub - not fun)
- - Todd
PS - for those with the full length
CF driveshafts:
I got my first one replaced very promptly -
vibration
at 100mph. The new one (only took them 2 days)
is visibly
higher quality and they removed the pilot bearing.
Mark said that enabled
them to "true" the shaft more efficiently.
I didn't notice any balancing
weights on the new one either.
Looks like they will try to go this route
from here on out.
Works great now. PST came through big time - even
picked up the old
shaft at their own expense. Nice power gain (to the
ground) too
- which I needed due to this hellacious
heat.
Restored my faith in a vendor again for a change.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
>
Looks like plain old water gives the most bang for your buck ----unless
>
you're running 90 to 100% alcohol you're only picking up one or two
>
degrees of cooling. If that's the case why is the addition of alcohol
>
recommended --- what properties does it posses that makes it better
> than
water [ other than as an antifreeze ].
>
> James Berry
>
===============================================
> > John Estill's
calcs:
> >
> > Water injection: 0.40 lb/min of water will
vaporize, cooling the air down
> > from 150 F to 109 F.
> >
> > > Ethanol: [Denatured Alcohol]
> > 100%: 1.26 lb/min
of ethanol will vaporize, cooling the air from 150 F to
> > 100
F.
> > 50%: 0.57 lb/min of ethanol/water will vaporize, cooling the air
from 150 F
> > to 108 F
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 23:08:14
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Motor pictures
For those of you that were interested in seeing
pictures of the damage to my
motor, here's the first batch of the
internals... Ugh. This is not going
to be a fun
project...
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/index.htm-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 19:22:28
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Motor pictures
Hi
Your motor looks just the same as
mine.My no 6 piston looks identical, all
the other 5 pistons have broken ring
lands between top and second ring, I
also am getting a crank grind, new
bearings and custom made forged pistons.
I hope it stays together this
time.
Steve Cooper
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 00:39:56
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Motor pictures
beware..a ground crank has a weaker less
stress-tolerant surface than a
new one.
On Tue, 17 Jul 2001, Steve
Cooper wrote:
> Hi
> Your motor looks just the same as mine.My no 6
piston looks identical, all
> the other 5 pistons have broken ring lands
between top and second ring, I
> also am getting a crank grind, new
bearings and custom made forged pistons.
> I hope it stays together this
time.
>
> Steve
Cooper
*******************************************
*New &
Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*******************************************
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 20:17:41
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Motor pictures
I got it Nitrided
Steve
Cooper
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Cc:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2001 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor
pictures
> beware..a ground crank has a weaker less
stress-tolerant surface than a
> new one.
>
>
>
>
On Tue, 17 Jul 2001, Steve Cooper wrote:
>
> > Hi
>
>
> > Your motor looks just the same as mine.My no 6 piston looks
identical,
all
> > the other 5 pistons have broken ring lands
between top and second ring,
I
> > also am getting a crank grind,
new bearings and custom made forged
pistons.
> > I hope it stays
together this time.
> >
> > Steve Cooper
> ---
>
*******************************************
> *New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com *
>
*******************************************
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 06:46:31
-0400
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Reverse still not engaging
I checked the linkage, its clear of any
obstruction, i can actually reach in
and lift/pull the linkage where it is
supposed to go for reverse by hand.
However it still will NOT go into
reverse, its like there is something
inside the tranny or something blocking
the way. I have tried everything in
combo with other gears and no luck :( Any
other ideas? Thanks in advance
Ron Zilinsky
92 RT TT
K&N
FIPK
The Car with no 'R'
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 06:25:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Motor pictures
Hi all,
Seems there are several of us who
are currently going
thru an engine rebuild.
Just wondering if someone
already has a listing of
gaskets, bolts, nuts, etc which cannot/shouldnot
be
reused. And also the Mitsu part numbers for those as
well as new
stuff such as pistons, rings, etc.
I looked in our FAQ and in the Stealth
manual, but
those numbers are not the numbers used by the Mitsu
parts
dept.
Having a list of Mitsu part numbers will save me a ton
of time
at the Mitsu dealer part dept window.
Also I'd like to get an idea of how
many $$$$$ I'm
going to be spending for my rebuild.
I blew a
head gasket and really overheated the engine.
Heads are off.
The head man will be able to
straighten and mill the heads. Pressure
test was fine
so heads are not cracked. About $450 for the two.
He
will also check the valves.
Cylinder walls look good. #4 may have
to be bored as
it is slightly out of round from the
preliminary
measurements. I'll be more accurate when I get the
block
pulled and get the pistons out.
Tops of pistons look good with the
exception of some
small 'dings' on #4 #2 #1 probably from a piece
of
sparkplug electrode. (same 'dings' in the
head
surface).
Perhaps we should not clog the Team3S with
part
numbers, so please respond privately. If there's
interest, I'm
sure Bob will put a page in our FAQ.
Be of good cheer,
John
-
--
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 08:23:19
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Anyone need a room at the shootout?
Because I lost my '95 R/T TT to an
accident I am not going to the Shootout
this weekend. I have a room
reservation to give up if anyone is interested.
E-mail me privately at
osk@mediaone.netIt is at the Super 8
motel in Milan (right off the OH turnpike). This is
where Matt Jannusch
and I stayed the past two years. Rates are $88 on 7/19,
$118 on 7/20-21
and $68 on 7/22. You do not need all those days, but I
think a Fri/Sat
stay is required this particular weekend. Rooms have two
queen
beds. Some rooms have an extra hide-a-bed couch, but they suck in a
big
way. Extra people are better off bringing a sleeping bag and sleep
on
the floor.
Oskar
Stealthless in Minneapolis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 07:21:01
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Reverse still not engaging
What clutch did you install? I
have a Centerforce DF, so keep that in mind as I go into my
symptoms...
As far as your problematic shifting into reverse, there are
no synchro's, so you can check that off the list.
I have found that my
clutch does not fully disengage, and kind of drags, so to speak. This makes it
difficult getting into first and reverse, but is no problem in other gears, as I
rev-match almost always. I wonder if the clutch cylinder(s) was/were engineered
to the finest detail.
Also, you may have some driveline "slack", meaning
there is some play in the driveshaft where it connects to the yoke in the rear
end. On my 92 RT/TT, I would get a rather loud clunk noise if I was idling in
neutral and shifted into first, (at a stoplight, for instance). Never
figured it out on the 92, (rolled over a couple years ago), but I have not had
that problem in my current 94 RT/TT. The problem that annoys me is staging
for a drag race: In first gear with the clutch out, (pedal fully depressed),
when I tach up to around 5000 rpm or so, the car creeps forward. I had Capitol
Mitsubishi (in San Jose, Ca) install the clutch over a year ago, and I question
the collective "automotive IQ" of the employees at that place...I get a slight
noise in neutral, and wonder if they knew what the hell they were doing when
installing it. Three months after the install, I brought the car back in with
those concerns, and they said my clutch was at the end of its life...they had
already!
forgotten they had installed it j
ust months
prior!
Guess I'll have to figure it out someday...maybe I'll rip it
apart/re-install it myself. Only way to get the job done right here in San
Jose!
Good luck, and post your findings!
Dan Jett
San Jose,
Ca
94 Stealth RT/TT, slightly modded.
>>> "Infernalist"
<
baali@wwnet.net> - 7/17/01 3:46 AM
>>>
I checked the linkage, its clear of any obstruction, i can
actually reach in
and lift/pull the linkage where it is supposed to go for
reverse by hand.
However it still will NOT go into reverse, its like there is
something
inside the tranny or something blocking the way. I have tried
everything in
combo with other gears and no luck :( Any other ideas? Thanks
in advance
Ron Zilinsky
92 RT TT
K&N FIPK
The Car with no
'R'