Team3S
Friday, July 6
2001
Volume 01 : Number
540
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 5 Jul 2001 19:52:46 +0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New dyno result !
Roger,
Glad to hear that your dyno
session went well. Sorry I missed it! Let me
know when your car
is ready for testing and I'll drive down for the next
run.
564 Nm (x
.7375 = 416 lb-ft) is outstanding! What conversion factor are
you using
for the 413 hp figure? You may recall that there was some
confusion
about this when we did our last run. This part is
straightforward: Kw *
1.36 = DIN PS. But DIN to SAE is not quite as clear:
1. From
research on the web, we originally came up with a conversion factor
of DIN PS
x 1.136 = SAE HP. This seemed to make sense, as the Euro-spec
VR-4 was
advertised as having 285 DIN PS, which would roughly translate to
the 320 SAE
HP advertised for the American-spec cars. However, this was
from
unverifiable sources, and frankly my moderately modified car doesn't
feel
like it has 406 SAE HP.
2. On page 64 of the Road & Track Illustrated
Automotive Dictionary (revised
edition), the conversion factor is published
as: DIN PS x 1.014 = SAE HP.
This is how I arrived at the 367 SAE HP figure
for my car, which seems
reasonable given its relative performance on the
Autobahn to 911s, M5s and
the like.
3. On page 146 of the August 2000
issue of Road & Track (Volume 51, Number
12), Dennis Simanaitis claims
that "Different engines respond to the
differing test conditions in different
ways and, in general, there's no
exact conversion factor, say, between bhp
SAE and bhp DIN. There are rough
guidelines, however. In general,
95 DIN = 100 SAE = 105 JIS." This would
be a factor of
1.053.
Until I hear otherwise, I'm sticking with #2. Better to err
on the
conservative side, right? Maybe we should all just start
thinking in Kw...
;-)
I look forward to seeing the charts and
comparing them to our runs!
-Jim
P.S.- I leave Saturday for a week
in San Diego and a week in San Antonio,
returning 20 July.
- -
--
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Roger Gerl (RTEC)
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 3:29 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: New dyno result !
No, not my car, but until Oleg is home to
Lativa I post his results here :
2nd gen 3000GT (US spec)
413hp
uncorrected @ Greddy Profec set to 1 bar of boost ! 564Nm tourque
(flywheel
hp)
Mods :
- - Greddy BC
- - ARC2
- - 550cc injectors
- - SX
FPR
- - Ross Pistons
- - Total Seals Rings
- - GT357 Turbos
- - HKS
intercoolers,hard piping
- - GT PRO Y-pipe
- - WI (not activated)
- -
two range colder platinums plugs
- - ATR dp, no cats at all
- - stock
middle pipe, Remus mufflers
- - some other toys
No signs of
detonation, very smooth power curve, three pulls all showed
results within 10
hp range. Toruque had a max peak around 5000 what is
typical for bigger
turbos. Oleg will scan the charts in when he's back and
I'll post them on my
site. Sidenote : BOV sprays oil but compression is very
good. He was scared
of doing more pulls with increasing boost as he has to
drive home more than
thousand miles. There are at least 40-60 hp in the
turbos that have to be
released out of the cage :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 11:08:55
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel Pumps (again)
I've asked this question a couple of times and got no
response ---- has anyone
plumbed two pumps in parallel like the some of the
Supra guys do ---- it looks
simple, just two pumps plumbed together on the
factory pump assembly. I can
see where power may be a problem but a second
pump relay shouldn't be a
big deal --- in my case I plan on moving the
battery to the back so I can also
install a relay driven off of the original
pump control line and just add a heavy
gauge wire to drive the two pumps.
That does not include increasing the fuel line size, I'm not sure if
that is a
problem or not --- dual lines would require an additional fitting
being added to
the pump housing. The only issue there would be the welding
or brazing of the
fitting to the housing and of course the running of a new
line.
Other than the issue of fuel rail distribution problems does anyone
know if we
have a problem with the size of the fuel line --- how much power
can the stock
fuel line and regulator support before It needs to be upgraded
????
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
I think next winter I'm going to install a second Supra pump, re-wire
>
the whole thing, and re-plumb the whole setup with parallel feeds to
> the
rails. I *think* both pumps will go into the tank on the assembly
> if
staggered. The Supra pump draws 15-18 amps at 43-73 psi, so two
> circuits
would be required. We can figure on at least 1V drop at 16
> amp draw with
the current wiring (maybe 20 lph less flow at 43 psi).
>
> Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 11:22:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
>> but I believe that it flowed
enough for 700-800 HP.
These sorts of statements can be misleading
because of all the
assumptions. At a minumum the fuel line pressure MUST be
specifed. IF
we can assume 0.5 BSFC (which means 1 lb/hr fuel results in 2
HP/hr),
then these are the specs for the Supra pump I had tested at
RC
Engineering.
At 12 V here are the approximate flow rates (I assume
gasoline weighs
~6 lbs/gal):
43 psi (0 psi boost), 255 lph = 67 gph =>
804 HP
58 psi (15 psi boost), 230 lph = 61 gph =>732 HP
68 psi (25 psi
boost), 200 lph = 53 gph => 636 HP
Isn't it ironic that just when we
need more fuel for our engine, when
we are boosting the most, the fuel pump
pumps less.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htmNo,
I am not sure what the Cosmo pump flows. I can only go by what I
have seen
reported on the net and what Mike Welch at Road///Race said
Denso told him.
Some fellow by the name of Dave Henry tested the
Cosmo
pump and others,
and Arty has posted flow tests results here (don't
know his source). In all
cases, the Cosmo ("HKS") pump flows about
the same as the Supra pump.
Here are some links.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumptechtip.htmhttp://www.supras.nl/modsFuelPump.htmhttp://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/denso.htmhttp://www.supracentral.com/oldschool/htm/forsale.htmThe
HKS pump sells at MVP Motorsports for $668; the HKS MSRP is
$835.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Rich Fowler" <
richfowler2@home.com>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps
(again)
Jeff - are you sure that the 0771 HKS pumps flows less than
the
supra?? I know that GTPRO recently sent an HKS pump to RC for
flow
tests and found that the 0771 substantially outperformed the
Denso
1020. I cant remember the numbers exactly, but I believe that
it
flowed enough for 700-800 HP. Brian has the flow data and I'm sure
he
would share it. Also, where did you buy the HKS pump from and
how
much $$.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 11:34:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
>> how much power can the stock fuel
line and
>> regulator support before It needs to be upgraded
????
I believe Jack T. made his record runs with the stock fuel
lines.
That doesn't answer your question, but has anybody yet (Norwalk
is
just around the corner) demonstrated more *real* power (not dyno
stuff)
out of their engine than Jack?
The thing to remember is that fuel lines
and air lines are similar in
this point, increasing the flow in a line sized
a little small causes
a pressure drop along the line. The flow is still
there, just the
pressure is less. There is a similar analogy for electric
wires. The
current draw (flow) stays the same in a wire sized too small
while
the voltage (pressure) drops.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps
(again)
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 14:39:09
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
Jim - I think there was someone at the East
Coast Gathering this year with
two fuel pumps. Here is a link to his
trunk.
http://www.geocities.com/ecg2k1hooters/imagepages/image110.html-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry"
<
fastmax@home.com>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 2:08 PM
I've asked this question a couple of
times and got no response ---- has
anyone
plumbed two pumps in parallel
like the some of the Supra guys do ---- it
looks
simple, just two pumps
plumbed together on the factory pump assembly. I can
see where power may be a
problem but a second pump relay shouldn't be a
big deal --- in my case I plan
on moving the battery to the back so I can
also
install a relay driven off
of the original pump control line and just add a
heavy
gauge wire to drive
the two pumps.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 05 Jul 2001 14:29:26
-0500
From: Jon Bohlke <
bohlke_mobile@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV recomendations for > 400HP
Hi - I am looking to add some
modifications to my VR4 and I am not sure
which BOV works best for my
combination of modifications. Here is the
list of mods I am looking at
so far:
HKS Aircharger
BOV
Polished Ypipe
Apexi AVC-R boost
controller
I am assuming that with these mods and setting the boost at
14.5 psi I
will be close to 400 HP.
My original thought was to get the
Greedy Type S BOV because it has the
ability to recirculate. Now I am
not sure, if anyone could give me the
pros and cons of a BOV without the
recirculating kit and preferred
vendors that would be
great.
Thanks
Jon
98 3000GT VR4
http://3000gt.websnout.com ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 17:22:25
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
I am looking to order a coolflex chrome
radiator hose kit for my car, but I
need to know what the inner dimension of
the upper radiator hose is ?
It looks like 1-1/2, so I ordered that
one. But I want to make sure, since
it will not ship until
tomorrow.
Can anyone help ?
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 23:06:50
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV recomendations for > 400HP
> HKS Aircharger
>
BOV
> Polished Ypipe
> Apexi AVC-R boost controller
>
>
I am assuming that with these mods and setting the boost at 14.5 psi I
>
will be close to 400 HP.
More around 350-360 on the flywheel
Any
BOV will do it for you.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 23:23:09
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New dyno result !
> Glad to hear that your dyno session
went well. Sorry I missed it! Let me
> know when your car is
ready for testing and I'll drive down for the next
> run.
Sure
:)
> 564 Nm (x .7375 = 416 lb-ft) is outstanding!
Yes it is !
Remember our dyno session where I had the highest tourque. The
more cars are
on the dyno the more I find out that bigger turbos result in
higher tourque
compared to the hp figure.
> What conversion factor are you
using for the 413 hp figure?
408 PS * 1.010458468 = uncorrected hp
(Master Converter Software)
Now a new correction way is used that makes
everythign more complicated. I
still use the DIN one.
> You
may recall that there was some
> confusion about this when we did our last
run. This part is
> straightforward: Kw * 1.36 = DIN PS. But
DIN to SAE is not quite as
clear:
Right ! SAE is a much bigger value
as they still do not include even the
water pump in the factor.
>
the 320 SAE HP advertised for the American-spec cars. However, this
was
> from unverifiable sources, and frankly my moderately modified car
doesn't
> feel like it has 406 SAE HP.
Yes, I agree but we need
more cars on the dyno with almost the same mods to
compare.
> 2. On
page 64 of the Road & Track Illustrated Automotive
Dictionary
(revised
> edition), the conversion factor is published as:
DIN PS x 1.014 = SAE HP.
This is only valid if the ambient is
20°C
> This is how I arrived at the 367 SAE HP figure for my car,
which seems
> reasonable given its relative performance on the Autobahn to
911s, M5s and
> the like.
Makes sense :)
> 3. On page 146
of the August 2000 issue of Road & Track (Volume 51, Number
> 12),
Dennis Simanaitis claims that "Different engines respond to the
>
differing test conditions in different ways and, in general, there's no
>
exact conversion factor, say, between bhp SAE and bhp DIN. There
are
rough
> guidelines, however. In general, 95 DIN = 100 SAE =
105 JIS." This would
> be a factor of 1.053.
I fully agree
with no doubt. Just look at me last dyno session and compare
to ours. The
different ambient results in a much different correction !
> Until I
hear otherwise, I'm sticking with #2. Better to err on the
>
conservative side, right? Maybe we should all just start thinking
in
Kw...
> ;-)
But then not corrected ! There are DIN kW, SAE kW
.......
> I look forward to seeing the charts and comparing them to
our runs!
They where done on another dyno outside he city. This one is
equipped with a
huge fan that has some direction channels to feed the side
intercoolers !
The make is a Bosch and not the optimistic version of a nother
tuning
company.
> P.S.- I leave Saturday for a week in San Diego
and a week in San Antonio,
> returning 20 July.
And what parts are
you bringing home ;-)))
Another note on the dyno session. The pulls where
done in 3rd, 4th and 5th
gear to see the difference regarding tranny loss.
Unfortunately, the loss is
not drawn on this dyno printouts, we just forgot
to ask as I don't know the
guys much yet. To my surprise, the run in 5th
resultet in the best power and
not like the one in 3rd we did on my car some
times ago ! Makes me thinking.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 16:39:47
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
> I am looking to order a coolflex
chrome radiator hose kit for
> my car, but I need to know what the inner
dimension of the
> upper radiator hose is ?
Run a measuring tape
around the hose and divide by 3.14 to get the diameter.
I guess they
aren't teaching math anymore these days since everyone has
a
computer... ;-) Just pickin' on you a little bit...
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 15:47:31
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
Excerpt from related link:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fuel_pump.htmlThe
first thing to settle on was that it would be a Bosch pump. If it's good enough
for Porsche's and Mazda's race teams, it's good enough for me. I call five
different Porsche tuners to ask what was the largest stock pump. I got four
different answers. But three of them told me that the 962 pump were the way to
go if money wasn't a big issue. It flows 65 gal/hr (about 400 lbs../hr), at 40
psi, but unlike the Paxton/SX pumps which flow over a third less at 70 psi, the
Bosch still flows 325 at 70 psi. So that settled the pump.
You can get
the Boshe from Mostly Mazda for about $290 or from Pettit (do not know Pettits
price)
Sounds like a reasonable and reliable
alternative?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 11:22
AM
To: Rich Fowler;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
>> but I believe that it flowed
enough for 700-800 HP.
These sorts of statements can be misleading
because of all the
assumptions. At a minumum the fuel line pressure MUST be
specifed. IF
we can assume 0.5 BSFC (which means 1 lb/hr fuel results in 2
HP/hr),
then these are the specs for the Supra pump I had tested at
RC
Engineering.
At 12 V here are the approximate flow rates (I assume
gasoline weighs
~6 lbs/gal):
43 psi (0 psi boost), 255 lph = 67 gph =>
804 HP
58 psi (15 psi boost), 230 lph = 61 gph =>732 HP
68 psi (25 psi
boost), 200 lph = 53 gph => 636 HP
Isn't it ironic that just when we
need more fuel for our engine, when
we are boosting the most, the fuel pump
pumps less.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htmNo,
I am not sure what the Cosmo pump flows. I can only go by what I
have seen
reported on the net and what Mike Welch at Road///Race said
Denso told him.
Some fellow by the name of Dave Henry tested the
Cosmo
pump and others,
and Arty has posted flow tests results here (don't
know his source). In all
cases, the Cosmo ("HKS") pump flows about
the same as the Supra pump.
Here are some links.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumptechtip.htmhttp://www.supras.nl/modsFuelPump.htmhttp://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/denso.htmhttp://www.supracentral.com/oldschool/htm/forsale.htmThe
HKS pump sells at MVP Motorsports for $668; the HKS MSRP is
$835.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Rich Fowler" <
richfowler2@home.com>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps
(again)
Jeff - are you sure that the 0771 HKS pumps flows less than
the
supra?? I know that GTPRO recently sent an HKS pump to RC for
flow
tests and found that the 0771 substantially outperformed the
Denso
1020. I cant remember the numbers exactly, but I believe that
it
flowed enough for 700-800 HP. Brian has the flow data and I'm sure
he
would share it. Also, where did you buy the HKS pump from and
how
much $$.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 15:25:33
-0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bukhead solenoids
Hi all,
When my car is cold there is a
ticking noise (in addition to rocker tick!)
which i am pretty sure is coming
from 3 solenoids on the bulkhead/firewall.
After a while the noise
seems to stop. Does anyone know is this normal and
how I would check
each of the solecnoids are working correctly.
Incidentally I have a
miss above 4000 rpm which i thought might be related
to
this
thanks
Ian
92 Stock VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 15:51:52
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
The Bosch pump being referred to is part
number 0580254-984 I
believe. It is also used in Delorean, Porsche, and
Lancer EVO rally
cars. It flows about the same as the Supra, Cosmo, and
Walbro 341/342
but costs more (except for the HKS-boxed Cosmo!). 65 gph @ 40
psi is
just like the other pumps mentioned, very roughly 250 lph @ 40 psi.
I
am not sure what the guy means by "325 at 70 psi". Pumps always
flow
less when pressure goes up. Maybe he means 325 lb/hr which is
about
54 gph or 204 lph @ 70 psi, just what the Supra pump flows.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel Pumps
(again)
Excerpt from related link:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fuel_pump.htmlThe
first thing to settle on was that it would be a Bosch pump. If
it's good
enough for Porsche's and Mazda's race teams, it's good
enough for me. I call
five different Porsche tuners to ask what was
the largest stock pump. I got
four different answers. But three of
them told me that the 962 pump were the
way to go if money wasn't a
big issue. It flows 65 gal/hr (about 400
lbs../hr), at 40 psi, but
unlike the Paxton/SX pumps which flow over a third
less at 70 psi,
the Bosch still flows 325 at 70 psi. So that settled the
pump.
You can get the Boshe from Mostly Mazda for about $290 or from
Pettit
(do not know Pettits price)
Sounds like a reasonable and
reliable alternative?
Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 18:28:52
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
Yeah, except he was asking for the inside
diameter.
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch,
Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 4:39 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: upper radiator hose
ID
> > I am looking to order a coolflex chrome radiator hose
kit for
> > my car, but I need to know what the inner dimension of
the
> > upper radiator hose is ?
>
> Run a measuring tape
around the hose and divide by 3.14 to get the
diameter.
>
> I
guess they aren't teaching math anymore these days since everyone has a
>
computer... ;-) Just pickin' on you a little bit...
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 15:47:31
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
Excerpt from related link:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fuel_pump.htmlThe
first thing to settle on was that it would be a Bosch pump. If it's good enough
for Porsche's and Mazda's race teams, it's good enough for me. I call five
different Porsche tuners to ask what was the largest stock pump. I got four
different answers. But three of them told me that the 962 pump were the way to
go if money wasn't a big issue. It flows 65 gal/hr (about 400 lbs../hr), at 40
psi, but unlike the Paxton/SX pumps which flow over a third less at 70 psi, the
Bosch still flows 325 at 70 psi. So that settled the pump.
You can get
the Boshe from Mostly Mazda for about $290 or from Pettit (do not know Pettits
price)
Sounds like a reasonable and reliable
alternative?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 11:22
AM
To: Rich Fowler;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
>> but I believe that it flowed
enough for 700-800 HP.
These sorts of statements can be misleading
because of all the
assumptions. At a minumum the fuel line pressure MUST be
specifed. IF
we can assume 0.5 BSFC (which means 1 lb/hr fuel results in 2
HP/hr),
then these are the specs for the Supra pump I had tested at
RC
Engineering.
At 12 V here are the approximate flow rates (I assume
gasoline weighs
~6 lbs/gal):
43 psi (0 psi boost), 255 lph = 67 gph =>
804 HP
58 psi (15 psi boost), 230 lph = 61 gph =>732 HP
68 psi (25 psi
boost), 200 lph = 53 gph => 636 HP
Isn't it ironic that just when we
need more fuel for our engine, when
we are boosting the most, the fuel pump
pumps less.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htmNo,
I am not sure what the Cosmo pump flows. I can only go by what I
have seen
reported on the net and what Mike Welch at Road///Race said
Denso told him.
Some fellow by the name of Dave Henry tested the
Cosmo
pump and others,
and Arty has posted flow tests results here (don't
know his source). In all
cases, the Cosmo ("HKS") pump flows about
the same as the Supra pump.
Here are some links.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumptechtip.htmhttp://www.supras.nl/modsFuelPump.htmhttp://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/denso.htmhttp://www.supracentral.com/oldschool/htm/forsale.htmThe
HKS pump sells at MVP Motorsports for $668; the HKS MSRP is
$835.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Rich Fowler" <
richfowler2@home.com>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps
(again)
Jeff - are you sure that the 0771 HKS pumps flows less than
the
supra?? I know that GTPRO recently sent an HKS pump to RC for
flow
tests and found that the 0771 substantially outperformed the
Denso
1020. I cant remember the numbers exactly, but I believe that
it
flowed enough for 700-800 HP. Brian has the flow data and I'm sure
he
would share it. Also, where did you buy the HKS pump from and
how
much $$.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 20:02:28
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
*sigh* Run tape around the INSIDE of
the hose and divide by 3.141592654.
Or take a straight edge and measure from
inside to inside for the answer.
I'm on your side, Matt.
-
--Flash!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Sent: Thursday,
July 05, 2001 7:28 PM
Yeah, except he was asking for the inside
diameter.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Sent:
Thursday, July 05, 2001 4:39 PM
> Run a measuring tape around the hose
and divide by 3.14 to get the
diameter.
>
> I guess they aren't
teaching math anymore these days since everyone has a
> computer...
;-) Just pickin' on you a little bit...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 23:10:39
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
> *sigh* Run tape around the
INSIDE of the hose and
> divide by 3.141592654. Or take a straight
edge and
> measure from inside to inside for the answer.
Heh,
actually I have to laugh at seeing Richard's answer to my post since he
was
right that I misunderstood and thought the outer diameter was
in
question. I just like to pick on people who won't pull the hose off
to
measure the hose but would rather ask others what it is.
;-)
> I'm on your side, Matt.
Thanks though! :-)
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 07:21:28
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
Where did you ordered from?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
[mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 5:22 PM
To:
3000GT List Submissions
Subject: Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
I
am looking to order a coolflex chrome radiator hose kit for my car, but
I
need to know what the inner dimension of the upper radiator hose is
?
It looks like 1-1/2, so I ordered that one. But I want to make
sure, since
it will not ship until tomorrow.
Can anyone help
?
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 06:55:05
-0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Infinity radio question
Hi Ted,
Wow, it's been a LONG time since I did that project and the car has
been in
mothballs for over two years now waiting for me to finish and
engine project
on it(anybody got a set of turbos and a shortblock
they'll give me?!?). SO
forgive me if I don't remember specifics about
the project, however, it's no
bother.
What I CAN tell you is that you will need to
purchase(if you haven't
already) the plastic plug((S)?) that fits the back of
the newer stereo
system and intergrate it into your existing wiring
harness. This means
you will have to cut your old plugs out of your
harness in your car.
Better be serious about the project before you do it
'cause there's not
much going backwards on it. Most custom stereo
installers have a
catalog that they can order these from if they do not have
one in stock.
Be ready to solder and heat shrink your
ass off(so yes, you'll need
a soldering iron, some wire(preferably different
colors so you don't get
confused), some heat shrink tubing, and a heat gun)
in the confines of a
small enviroment(AKA under your dash). I found the
best place for the
NEW amplifier to live was inside the front part of the
center console.
If I remember correctly, I had to manufacture a rudimentary
"mounting
bracket" from sheet metal to keep it from rattling and moving
around
down there(or did I use tape?)...at any rate, I did NOT bother to try
to
mount the Amp under the seat. You're on your own with the CD
changer,
as I do not have this option in my car.
The last thing was the faceplate for around the stereo, you gotta
have it, if
you don't, call a salvage yard and pray for rain.
My
OLD steering wheel controls worked, sorta. If I remember right,
the
volume controls work, but that's about it...the rest are a
loss.
Hope all this is of some use to you and the
group, about halfway
thru typing this I decided to go ahead and send it to
everyone, as this
question comes up periodically.
And for those that are wondering where the hell I've been, I'm still
here,
lurking, waiting, deleting, trying to get the money and time to
put my OTHER
baby back on the road. My 2K Jeep Wrangler is serving me
well in the
interim.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 RT/TT (3SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
4.0
St.
Louis, MO
Ted Ross wrote:
Hello, sorry to bother you but I saw
your post that you said you
upgraded your stereo in you 91 RT/TT to an
Infinity stereo from a later
model. I have a 91RT/TT & I just purchased
an Infinity headunit, changer
& amp from somebody and was wondering if
you had any pointers I should
know. I am worried about the wiring that goes
from the headunit to the
amp & back-how did you do it? Did you use the
harness from a later model
or did you wire them yourself? I found your
diagrams you posted & they
are very helpful. Im just curious that when
they added the Infinity
option with the amp under the seat did they just add
some short cables
that go from the headunit to the amp & back(Im aware of
the one that
goes to the cd changer). Again, any input is helpful
Thanks Ted
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 08:22:29
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel Pumps (again)
2 supra pumps sitting next to each other will not fit
back into the hole in
the stock gas tank--it's too small. Supras have a
bigger access hole. I
ended up putting in 2 walbos next to each other,
which are smaller and do
fit. I think the stock line is too small for
very high/record range hp...it
CAN work, you will simply have more pressure
drop across the line to reach
your target flowrate at the output end.
The Supra/HKS pump will run out of
any flow at all around 90 psi or so...flow
gets less and less with more
pressure, so stock line pressure drop costs you
flowrate; I had stock fuel
lines/filter with one HKS pump and a BoostAPump
for my last year or so.
Jack T.
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Thursday, July
05, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)
has
anyone
> plumbed two pumps in parallel like the some of the Supra guys do
---- it
looks
> simple, just two pumps plumbed together on the factory
pump assembly. I
can
> see where power may be a problem but a second
pump relay shouldn't be a
> big deal --- in my case I plan on moving the
battery to the back so I can
also
> install a relay driven off of the
original pump control line and just add
a heavy
> gauge wire to drive
the two pumps.
> That does not include increasing the fuel line size, I'm
not sure if that
is a
> problem or not --- dual lines would require an
additional fitting being
added to
> the pump housing. The only issue
there would be the welding or brazing of
the
> fitting to the housing
and of course the running of a new line.
> Other than the issue of fuel
rail distribution problems does anyone know
if we
> have a problem with
the size of the fuel line --- how much power can the
stock
> fuel line
and regulator support before It needs to be upgraded ????
>> From:
Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> >
I think next winter I'm going to install a second Supra pump, re-wire
>
> the whole thing, and re-plumb the whole setup with parallel feeds
to
> > the rails. I *think* both pumps will go into the tank on the
assembly
> > if staggered. The Supra pump draws 15-18 amps at 43-73
psi, so two
> > circuits would be required. We can figure on at least
1V drop at 16
> > amp draw with the current wiring (maybe 20 lph less
flow at 43 psi).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 6 Jul 2001 14:22:41
+0100
From: martin berkley <
3000gto@breathe.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help, starting problem
Hello
I have a 92 3000GTO TT which has
been fine for the lat year or so, but over the past 2 months the weather in the
UK has been hot so i have been using my bike (900 Ninja) for commuting, since
the car has not been used as much it has developed a problem starting.
When i
turn the key it just clicks, if i keep turning it repeatedly it will eventually
turn over and start, i have a new battery, new gold battery clamps and all are
tight.
I am thinking it's a sticking starter solonoid but don't know to much
about the system on my car.
Am i on the right tracks and if so where is it
located and are there any tests i can perform for checking the
solonoid.
Thanks in advance
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001
10:33:04 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: upper radiator hose ID
But I do agree that for something like the
radiator hose, which is always
full of fluid, fuel pump lines, which are full
of fuel, brake lines, or
intercooler pipes, etc. are good points to ask about
since they are either
difficult or nearly impossible to remove without
spilling fluid anywhere.
- --Flash!
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Heh,
actually I have to laugh at seeing Richard's answer to my post since he
was
right that I misunderstood and thought the outer diameter was
in
question. I just like to pick on people who won't pull the hose off
to
measure the hose but would rather ask others what it is.
;-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:29:25
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
I was looking at wheels yesterday and liked
a set of 20 x 8.5 wheels. I was
also going to go with 275/35/20 tires. I was
told they would fit (offset
etc.) I have a 1995 Spyder Vr-4 but I though I
remember hearing 19' were the
biggest that would fit. Any help would be
great.
Curtis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:39:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
I don't think it is advisable to put
275-width tires on an 8.5" width rim.
I think the rim is supposed to be 9.5"
or 10" but TireRack has this on their
site. You need something that
will support the thin sidewall.
275-size tires do not fit the front with
stock offset. They do fit the rear
but not the front (at least on
mine).
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comhttp://www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg1995
VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Sent: Friday,
July 06, 2001 11:29 AM
I was looking at wheels yesterday and liked a set
of 20 x 8.5 wheels. I was
also going to go with 275/35/20 tires. I was told
they would fit (offset
etc.) I have a 1995 Spyder Vr-4 but I though I
remember hearing 19' were the
biggest that would fit. Any help would be
great.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 08:53:18
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: different size tires on front and rear
O.K. I know its front
wheel drive......and the obvious disadvantage of
front tires being different
size to the rear for rotation ease. I have a
N/T R/T and want that look of
meat under my car. I was thinking 245/45-17
in front on an 8 inch wheel and
275/45 or ? -17 on an 8.5 wide or 9" wide
wheel. Any thoughts? I am almost
ready to order this from tire rack or
tires.com
Bob K.
93'
R/T
FIPK KV85'S
BRADI cross drilled and slotted rotors (in the
mail)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:15:01
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
http://www.team3s.com/FAQplussizing.htmThat
is a place to start - if you haven't already.
With the math, that comes
to 26.5 inches diameter. Stock diamter is approx.
25.7 inches. Thats a
decent amount of difference, although it ~may~ still
work.
I might add
that with 30 series tires, you may very well go through a few of
those 20"
wheels before you learn to almost stop for any road imperfection
(pot holes,
road grooves, etc.)
- -Cody
If they fit and work, let us know,
cause we'll add it to the FAQ.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Curtis McConnel
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 10:29 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
I was looking at wheels yesterday
and liked a set of 20 x 8.5 wheels. I was
also going to go with 275/35/20
tires. I was told they would fit (offset
etc.) I have a 1995 Spyder Vr-4 but
I though I remember hearing 19' were the
biggest that would fit. Any help
would be great.
Curtis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 09:40:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
245/45-17 = ~25.68" diameter, 80.68"
circumference
275/35-20 = ~27.58" diameter, 86.64" circumference
For
those that need the math practice:
(275 x 0.35) / 25.4 = 3.79"
(3.79 x 2)
+ 20 = 27.58"
27.58 x 3.14159 = 86.645"
The larger tire/wheel will
raise your car about an inch and slow your
speedo/odometer by about 7.4%. The
larger diameter will also
effectively lower your gear ratio and make your car
accelerate a bit
slower (may be unnoticeable). This larger combo may not
clear the
spring lower seat on the front struts (regardless of offset).
You
could switch to Ground Control adjustable springs (to lower your
car
back down) and cut off the offending part of the seat (GC
springs
don't need the outside part). You would also have to decrease
offset
to 38-mm or less (40 might work depending on wheel and tire
combo).
Sounds like a project.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, July 06, 2001 9:29 AM
Subject: Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
I
was looking at wheels yesterday and liked a set of 20 x 8.5 wheels.
I was
also going to go with 275/35/20 tires. I was told they would
fit (offset
etc.) I have a 1995 Spyder Vr-4 but I though I remember
hearing 19' were the
biggest that would fit. Any help would be great.
Curtis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 11:48:40
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
Thanks for the correction... Somewhere,
I think I thought I saw 30 series,
instead of 35 series.
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 11:40 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
245/45-17 = ~25.68" diameter, 80.68"
circumference
275/35-20 = ~27.58" diameter, 86.64" circumference
For
those that need the math practice:
(275 x 0.35) / 25.4 = 3.79"
(3.79 x 2)
+ 20 = 27.58"
27.58 x 3.14159 = 86.645"
The larger tire/wheel will
raise your car about an inch and slow your
speedo/odometer by about 7.4%. The
larger diameter will also
effectively lower your gear ratio and make your car
accelerate a bit
slower (may be unnoticeable). This larger combo may not
clear the
spring lower seat on the front struts (regardless of offset).
You
could switch to Ground Control adjustable springs (to lower your
car
back down) and cut off the offending part of the seat (GC
springs
don't need the outside part). You would also have to decrease
offset
to 38-mm or less (40 might work depending on wheel and tire
combo).
Sounds like a project.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 13:39:51
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Will 20" wheels fit?
With all due respect to the gurus of the
list I do not recommend putting a
275 tire on a 8.5" rim. Why?
Because TireRack notes that for these tires
the available rim width is 9" -
11" and the preferred rim width is 9.5"
(
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=AVS+Sport).
The
stock 8.5" rim (215.9 mm) is a half inch smaller than 9" and one inch
smaller
than 9.5". Take half of each number for the total deviation on
each
side of the centerline and you get 0.25" and 0.5" wider. I tell
you, with
the 265-size tires there is not much more room to the stock front
suspension
with stock offset. I tried a 275 and could not even get the
wheel on the
studs. It will not fit. Seriously think about taking
your car to a tire
shop and have them test fit a 275-width tire on another
size (17", 18",
etc.) and see if the width clears. If it does then look
at a 20" tire but I
do not think it will fit.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comhttp://www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg1995
VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Sent: Friday,
July 06, 2001 11:29 AM
I was looking at wheels yesterday and liked a set
of 20 x 8.5 wheels. I was
also going to go with 275/35/20 tires. I was told
they would fit (offset
etc.) I have a 1995 Spyder Vr-4 but I though I
remember hearing 19' were the
biggest that would fit. Any help would be
great.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#540
*********************