Team3S             Thursday, July 5 2001             Volume 01 : Number 539




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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 13:29:55 -0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject: Team3S: rims and tires

I have been looking at upgrading my tires from their stock versions to a
bigger size.
I looked under the front wheel and noticed that the bottom of the spring is
pretty close to the stock wheel already, so i was wonder if a 245/45zr17 ,
or a 205/45zr17 would be best. any advise
would help.  Thanks

Brent Hawkinson
96' Stealth(base)


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 14:43:40 EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: rims and tires

> so i was wonder if a 245/45zr17, or a 205/45zr17 would be best.

Well if you're staying with your stock rim, the 245's will be much to wide. 
If you plan on upgrading your rims, definitely go with the 245's.  You can
even go wider if you want.

- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Pearl White RT/NA - For Sale...
1992 Green RT/TT
    K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
    Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
    Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
    Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 13:45:45 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: rims and tires

http://www.team3s.com/FAQplussizing.htm

- -Cody

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I have been looking at upgrading my tires from their stock versions to a
bigger size.
I looked under the front wheel and noticed that the bottom of the spring is
pretty close to the stock wheel already, so i was wonder if a 245/45zr17 ,
or a 205/45zr17 would be best. any advise
would help.  Thanks

Brent Hawkinson
96' Stealth(base)


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 18:01:10 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Custom rotors anyone??

Is that $250 for the entire rotor?  (ie disc plus hat?)  If so, I'm on that like Oprah on a honey baked ham.

I would need a 2nd gen rotor that would mount to a 1st gen (1992) VR-4.  I'm guessing the hats should be the same.  Also, would it be possible to make the inner diameter of the disc a bit smaller than stock, while keeping the same outer diameter?  That would get rid of the problem
with the big reds where the bottom of the pad overhangs the inner diameter of the stock 2nd gen rotor, causing that portion of the pad not to wear.

- -Steve
'92 VR-4, now complete with Big Reds


> Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:32:21 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Custom rotors anyone??
>
> My porterfield connection has extended me the offer that some of us cant
> refuse.
>
> Custom hats/rotor combinations for the fronts of our cars. (maybe rears,
> dunno yet)
>
> Any interest?  Rotors could cost as much as $250/ea, but would be a
> lighter 2pc design, where the disc will be interchangable, and would be a
> heavy-duty directional vane rotor as well.  (Winston cup type).
>
> ?
>
> - ---
> Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> California, USA
>
> You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed you..

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 16:39:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Custom rotors anyone??

Thats JUST a guess based on current STOCK items from the company, without
anything custom.

On Wed, 4 Jul 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:

> Is that $250 for the entire rotor?  (ie disc plus hat?)  If so, I'm on that like Oprah on a honey baked ham.
>
> I would need a 2nd gen rotor that would mount to a 1st gen (1992) VR-4.  I'm guessing the hats should be the same.  Also, would it be possible to make the inner diameter of the disc a bit smaller than stock, while keeping the same outer diameter?  That would get rid of the problem
> with the big reds where the bottom of the pad overhangs the inner diameter of the stock 2nd gen rotor, causing that portion of the pad not to wear.
>
> -Steve
> '92 VR-4, now complete with Big Reds
>
>
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:32:21 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> > Subject: Team3S: Custom rotors anyone??
> >
> > My porterfield connection has extended me the offer that some of us cant
> > refuse.
> >
> > Custom hats/rotor combinations for the fronts of our cars. (maybe rears,
> > dunno yet)
> >
> > Any interest?  Rotors could cost as much as $250/ea, but would be a
> > lighter 2pc design, where the disc will be interchangable, and would be a
> > heavy-duty directional vane rotor as well.  (Winston cup type).
> >
> > ?

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com
California, USA

You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed you..


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 16:40:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Custom rotors anyone??

Ohh..and if you are talking about pad not touching the rotors on the BR
kit..thats because the caliper really wants a larger rotor to sit on
correctly.

On Wed, 4 Jul 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:

> Is that $250 for the entire rotor?  (ie disc plus hat?)  If so, I'm on that like Oprah on a honey baked ham.
>
> I would need a 2nd gen rotor that would mount to a 1st gen (1992) VR-4.  I'm guessing the hats should be the same.  Also, would it be possible to make the inner diameter of the disc a bit smaller than stock, while keeping the same outer diameter?  That would get rid of the problem
> with the big reds where the bottom of the pad overhangs the inner diameter of the stock 2nd gen rotor, causing that portion of the pad not to wear.
>
> -Steve
> '92 VR-4, now complete with Big Reds
>
>
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:32:21 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> > Subject: Team3S: Custom rotors anyone??
> >
> > My porterfield connection has extended me the offer that some of us cant
> > refuse.
> >
> > Custom hats/rotor combinations for the fronts of our cars. (maybe rears,
> > dunno yet)
> >
> > Any interest?  Rotors could cost as much as $250/ea, but would be a
> > lighter 2pc design, where the disc will be interchangable, and would be a
> > heavy-duty directional vane rotor as well.  (Winston cup type).
> >
> > ?

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com
California, USA

You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed you..


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 17:21:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth316 has moved/fuel pump assemblies

Hello all,

www.stealth316.com now redirects you to my new host at YAHOO!

After being unable to update my web site at 3SI since May 29 and now
with 3SI disabled for a day, I decide to move. The new web site
direct link is.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/

In case anyone is wondering, lutransys stands for Lucius
Transportation Systems (think of Xixor if your a SW fan). :)

My old site at 3SI is out of date and eventually the ~100 html pages
there will route you to my new host (when I have acces again). The
STIM gif images will remain at 3SI and others (hello admins?) are
welcome to copy those folders to make this Tech Info more widely
available.

To keep this post technical, I had a chance to compare the fuel pump
assemblies for SOHC and DOHC 3S cars. SOHC engines use part number
MB678806 and DOHC engines use part number MB678807. The two
assemblies are very similar. The major differences are the pumps
themselves (the DOHC version is larger and has a higher flow
capacity) and in the pickup tube length (DOHC version is shorter).
The pump electrical connections are also different. Pictures are at
my new web page below.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-fuelpumps.htm

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 21:05:08 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: rims and tires

One question I haven't seen answered, is how to determine appropriate wheel
width. Looks like they typically come in 1/2" increments. Do you just divide
the metric tire width by 25.4, then pick the next closest 1/2" measurement,
without going over? Or is that over simplified?

Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of cody
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 11:46 AM
To: Hawkinson's; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: rims and tires


http://www.team3s.com/FAQplussizing.htm

- -Cody

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I have been looking at upgrading my tires from their stock versions to a
bigger size.
I looked under the front wheel and noticed that the bottom of the spring is
pretty close to the stock wheel already, so i was wonder if a 245/45zr17 ,
or a 205/45zr17 would be best. any advise
would help.  Thanks

Brent Hawkinson
96' Stealth(base)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 06:30:49 +0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1. Damage to engine from driving without oil?

Nothing technical below, but thought I'd share a story.

In early '97, a dump truck dropped a large stone in front of my '89 Accord
LXi.  I had no choice but to drive over it, and it made a loud thump under
the car.  I knew it could have punctured the oil pan so I watched the oil
pressure light like a hawk.  Sure enough, after about five miles the light
began to flicker and I shut it off immediately, coasting to the shoulder.
Unfortunately, it was too late, as there was severe rod knock and the engine
was toast.

After replacing the engine, I sold the Accord and bought the Stealth.  THE
VERY DAY I bought the Stealth, perhaps 50 miles from the lot, I heard a loud
TWANG sound under the floor while taking an exit off the highway.  The
thought occurred that it could be the oil plug bolt falling off, but I
dismissed the possibility of having TWO engines run out of oil in a matter
of weeks as being way too unlucky, even for me.  The oil pressure stayed
high, the light didn't come on...

I was wrong (i.e.- I was right).  I continued to a store (about two miles
past the exit ramp) and gave the engine plenty of time to drain oil all over
the parking lot.  Of course I didn't see the puddle when I came back to the
car, started it up, waited at two traffic lights and drove about two miles
at 50+ mph before NOTICING that the oil light was on solid.  You can't even
BEGIN to imagine my mental state at that moment.

I called a friend and asked him to bring a case of oil, a universal oil
plug and a straightjacket.  The engine started and I could hear nothing
abnormal (hard to know since I'd owned the car for less than a day at that
point.. lifter tick, firewall solenoids, etc. - argh!), so I drove it to the
nearest dealer (happened to be Dodge, Mitsu was much further), stopping
every few miles to listen for rod knock.  The next day a mechanic (who had
actually taken the Mitsu training for our cars) "inspected" the engine and
thought everything was fine.

I've since put another 55k miles on the engine, 35k of which has been at
1.0 bar with occasional high-speed stress tests on the Autobahn.  Leakdown
on my front three cylinders was in the normal range last time I checked
(about 20k miles ago).

I hope your brother is as "lucky."

-Jim

P.S.- For completeness, a few days later the wing nut came off the air
filter in my suped-up '76 Bronco and the stud fell into a cylinder, poking a
hole through the block.  I built up a new block but Fel-Pro sold me the
wrong head gasket and I immediately burned up all the main/rod bearings (it
ran just long enough to strand me on a snow-covered trail where no one could
get to me).  By the time I got the 302 sorted out, the grass in the field
was tall and I pulled out my '59 John Deere 435-D to cut it.  The bush hog
I'd bought used the previous fall had seized, and the farmer who sold it to
me had used a HARDENED bolt on the PTO shaft that wouldn't shear, so I blew
up the gear box in my tractor.  Of course no one made parts for that model
anymore, so I had to get them fabricated...  Etc., etc., etc., etc.  *sigh*

- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 10:00:28 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Ignition upgrade?

Anyone tried these? http://www.directhits.com

Is it a scam or is it a solution to the spark blow out that the VR4 suffers off?

/mikael


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 08:53:43 -0400
From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si.org Down

A sub station exploded in Lynn MA on Tuesday night. This affect the company
that is hosting , both power and data lines were brought down.

Please forward this contact email address to any who have questions and
concerns that need to be directed to the webmaster @3si.org

I hope this will be resolved soon.

Thanks for everyone's patience.

Eric Lotter
Webmaster@3si.org
disaster email: elotter@hotmail.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 15:35:14 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade?

A coil after the coil that transforms the high voltage to an even higher. On
soem cars the plugs do liek this and on others the result is the same as no
mroe current can flow due to the weaker part infront of them. For $239
pretty expensive compared to a $190 Acell coil upgrade. Try it ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


> Anyone tried these? http://www.directhits.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 15:29:00 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: New dyno result !

No, not my car, but until Oleg is home to Lativa I post his results here :

2nd gen 3000GT (US spec)
413hp uncorrected @ Greddy Profec set to 1 bar of boost ! 564Nm tourque
(flywheel hp)

Mods :
- - Greddy BC
- - ARC2
- - 550cc injectors
- - SX FPR
- - Ross Pistons
- - Total Seals Rings
- - GT357 Turbos
- - HKS intercoolers,hard piping
- - GT PRO Y-pipe
- - WI (not activated)
- - two range colder platinums plugs
- - ATR dp, no cats at all
- - stock middle pipe, Remus mufflers
- - some other toys

No signs of detonation, very smooth power curve, three pulls all showed
results within 10 hp range. Toruque had a max peak around 5000 what is
typical for bigger turbos. Oleg will scan the charts in when he's back and
I'll post them on my site. Sidenote : BOV sprays oil but compression is very
good. He was scared of doing more pulls with increasing boost as he has to
drive home more than thousand miles. There are at least 40-60 hp in the
turbos that have to be released out of the cage :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 08:21:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)

I recently went through the effort again of trying to upgrade my fuel
pump. I currently have a "Supra" pump installed, Denso 195130-1020.
My fuel pressure was poor and so I purchased one of the legendary HKS
"340" lph pumps. When I recieved the pump I was totally dismayed to
see a yellow-tag Denso 195130-0771 pump, the Mazda Cosmo (20B) fuel
pump! Why my dismay? Because the Denso -0771 (Cosmo) pump flows less
than the -1020 (Supra) pump! I am sending the HKS pump back. Which is
OK as I found out when I removed the old fuel pump that I had damaged
the O-ring that seals the pump into the pickup tube. I replaced the
O-ring (from a SOHC pump assembly) and everything works great.

I seemed to have misplaced the torn O-ring. Does anyone know the size
of the O-ring? I'm sure this O-ring could be purchased at the local
hardware store. Mitsu sells only complete pump assemblies for about
$600!

I talked to Mike Welch at Road Race Engineering about Denso pump
flows. His web site shows some numbers that he got from the
Engineering Department at Denso USA.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumptechtip.htm

The -0771 pump is rated to flow 250 lph @ 12 V @ 43 psi. The -1020
pump is rated at 260 lph @ 12 V @ 43 psi. The only pump I know of
that flows more is the Skyline pump (310 lph @ 12 V @ 43 psi) which
sells for over twice as much as the Supra pump (~$500 vs $200).

Does anyone have some part numbers for the Skyline pump?

Bottom line, the HKS pump is bullshit! The 340 lph rating must be at
0 psi. The HKS list price is now $835!!!!!!!!!! Conicelli Toyota
sells the -1020 pump for $185 (group purchase price).

For those that don't want to cough up even $200 for a fuel pump and
don't mind a little extra noise, DSM Performance sells the Walbro 255
lph high pressure pump for $140. Flow info on the Walbro pumps can be
found at these two links.

http://members.home.com/syclone/APE/fuelpump.html
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumpflowrates.htm

My fuel pump upgrade web page:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htm

I think next winter I'm going to install a second Supra pump, re-wire
the whole thing, and re-plumb the whole setup with parallel feeds to
the rails. I *think* both pumps will go into the tank on the assembly
if staggered. The Supra pump draws 15-18 amps at 43-73 psi, so two
circuits would be required. We can figure on at least 1V drop at 16
amp draw with the current wiring (maybe 20 lph less flow at 43 psi).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 10:55:41 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)

> I seemed to have misplaced the torn O-ring. Does anyone know the size
> of the O-ring? I'm sure this O-ring could be purchased at the local
> hardware store. Mitsu sells only complete pump assemblies for about
> $600!

I'm using a Chevy (Borg-Warner) fuel injector o-ring seal on my pump.  It
was identical in size and composition to the original on my fuel pump.  I
believe the Borg-Warner part number was 274571, and I got it from
CarParts.com for something like $1.00 or so.  I can verify the part number
tonight if you want.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 09:54:18 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pumps (again)

Jeff - are you sure that the 0771 HKS pumps flows less than the supra??  I
know that GTPRO recently sent an HKS pump to RC for flow tests and found
that the 0771 substantially outperformed the Denso 1020.  I cant remember
the numbers exactly, but I believe that it flowed enough for 700-800 HP.
Brian has the flow data and I'm sure he would share it.  Also, where did you
buy the HKS pump from and how much $$.


on 7/5/01 8:21 AM, Jeff Lucius at stealthman92@yahoo.com wrote:

> I recently went through the effort again of trying to upgrade my fuel
> pump. I currently have a "Supra" pump installed, Denso 195130-1020.
> My fuel pressure was poor and so I purchased one of the legendary HKS
> "340" lph pumps. When I recieved the pump I was totally dismayed to
> see a yellow-tag Denso 195130-0771 pump, the Mazda Cosmo (20B) fuel
> pump! Why my dismay? Because the Denso -0771 (Cosmo) pump flows less
> than the -1020 (Supra) pump! I am sending the HKS pump back. Which is
> OK as I found out when I removed the old fuel pump that I had damaged
> the O-ring that seals the pump into the pickup tube. I replaced the
> O-ring (from a SOHC pump assembly) and everything works great.
>
> The -0771 pump is rated to flow 250 lph @ 12 V @ 43 psi. The -1020
> pump is rated at 260 lph @ 12 V @ 43 psi. The only pump I know of
> that flows more is the Skyline pump (310 lph @ 12 V @ 43 psi) which
> sells for over twice as much as the Supra pump (~$500 vs $200).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S V1 #539
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