Team3S
Wednesday, July 4
2001
Volume 01 : Number
538
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 03 Jul 2001 11:50:03 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need Help - Hesitation problem
>Reducing the boost levels
seems to help, I turned my DSBC off and almost all
>of the hesitation went
away.
Sounds like fouled spark plugs !
>I always run octane
booster - the kind you get at the auto parts store in
>the
can.
Immediatly stop using them on a regular basis. They are know to do
bad
sometimes as well as the this can be the cause for fouling plugs pretty
quick !
>Could this be detonation?
No, I doubt. It sounds
more like an ignition problem. Check the plugs !
>Is there a site that
will give me info on
>setting up the TMO data logger for my car?
No
don't work on your car !
>knock count, but it would at least be nice
to see if the timing is getting
>retarded.
Then get another OBDII
tool, but I doubt that this is the problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 08:50:11
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
How to: Bad ball joint(s) diagnosis (part 2)
Hello again!
I've had
many many people ask good questions about this issue, so I will
include my
original, and add in the answers. Thanks everyone for
your
replies!
I recently replaced 2 bad ball joints on my '91 Stealth
TT. Mind you,
this car JUST turned over 30k original miles. The
ball joints are
replaceable ONLY by replacing the entire control arm that
houses them.
I got mine for $208 each from my man John at Conicelli
Mitsubishi in PA
(1-610-272-9319). I replaced them myself also, with
standard tools plus
a 'ball-joint removal tool' ($15) from Craftsman, which
looks like a
giant tuning fork. Real easy to use, the job took me about
an hour each
arm (FYI, I am very versed on working on these cars, but it
still wasn't
a bad job at all). Be sure to have your car's production
date and/or
VIN number when ordering, there are many different control
arms!!!
The car was pulling really badly going down the road, especially
on the
highway. I found myself fighting the steering constantly,
especially
when the roadway was very sunk in from cars/trucks driving on
them. AND,
the front tires wore down from 90% to 25% in about 3k miles - no
joke.
Another sign that the tires gave was the infamous 'feathering' of
the
inside edge of the tires. Rub your hand back and forth on this
edge...
if one tread catches your hand and the next doesn't (you'll know what
I
mean) then you surely have at least an alignment problem,
___possibly___
ball joints.
My Diagnosis: Bad ball joints.
The play in the joints was checked, and
both were unacceptable. This is
best tested by a mechanic, but
basically involves trying to push the joint
around in any direction to
see if it has any play in it. They have been
replaced, and I no longer
have to fight the car going down the road.
And I haven't had an
alignment done yet to finish up the job either, which
will probably help
even more.
Hope this helps, please shoot me up with
any more questions!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 08:51:57
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clear Coat
Was this on the bumper or on the car itself?
I've seen it many times on the blue bumpers..
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl
White R/T TT
The68th@aol.com
wrote:
> THe paint on my 92 Stealth ES looked like it was oxidized or
something, it was a light blue instead of the normal dark blue. When I
touched it, it chipped off. It's almost like the clear coat is chipping
off. What could cause this, and is there anything tha I can do about
it?
> Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 08:03:06
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
What they gave me is 'SUPER DOT 4
MOTOR VEHICLE BRAKE FLUID' for use with
ford focus. Meets super dot 4
minimum wet boiling point of 356 F. It was
$10.31 for 16oz
(pint). Anyone know anything about this stuff? Should I
take it
back and get the DOT 3 stuff??
Sean
'91 R/T TT, FIPK, Porterfield R4-S
and boiled brake fluid.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001 09:16
To:
Sean Winker
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
At
08:33 AM 7/2/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Some good info, a couple
questions/comments. I just purchased 2 pints of
>Ford Brake Fluid
(Heavy Duty or High Performance can't remember I'll have
to
>look at
the bottle again) it was over $10 a pint. Did I get the
wrong
>stuff?
Reading the label off a can of it:
Ford
High Performance DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid
16 fl oz
Minimum dry
boiling point of 550 F.
Prices reported here on the list are $3-4 per
pint.
Maybe they raised the price or maybe you got screwed.
For $10 a
pint, you could buy Motul 600.
>
>Regarding turning the car off
to park rather than using the brakes. Do you
>then restart it so it
cools down with the engine running? If not don't you
>worry about
damage to the turbo bearings?
Drive around on a cooldown lap or around
the paddock for five minutes or
so. This cools down the brakes AND the turbos
at the same time. If you
drive so as to NOT use the brakes for the cooldown
period, I trust you will
not be using the turbos as well.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 06:55:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Hi Sean,
Whatever you do,
DO NOT mix DOT 3 & 4.
I use the Ford DOT 3 cause its the highest
rated and
least espensive and I bleed and change fluid regularly
because
of driving schools.
Never tried the DOT 4.
BTW I usually drive
around the parking lot or
surrounding roads after comming off of the track.
That gives our pads/rotors and our turbos additional
time to cool
off.
Otherwise do as Flash suggests:... when you park you
can
block the wheels with wood and leave the car
running and in Neutral and then
in a few minutes roll
the car back a few inches so the pads do not
create
"hot spots" on the rotors.
Be of good cheer,
John
-
--- Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
wrote:
> What they gave me is 'SUPER DOT 4 MOTOR VEHICLE
> BRAKE
FLUID' for use with
> ford focus. Meets super dot 4 minimum wet
boiling
> point of 356 F. It was
> $10.31 for 16oz
(pint). Anyone know anything about
> this stuff? Should
I
> take it back and get the DOT 3 stuff??
>
> Sean
>
'91 R/T TT, FIPK, Porterfield R4-S and boiled brake
> fluid.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001
09:16
> To: Sean Winker
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Any advice would
help....
>
>
> At 08:33 AM 7/2/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Some good info, a couple questions/comments. I
> just purchased
2 pints of
> >Ford Brake Fluid (Heavy Duty or High Performance
>
can't remember I'll have
> to
> >look at the bottle again) it was
over $10 a pint.
> Did I get the wrong
> >stuff?
>
> Reading the label off a can of it:
> Ford High Performance DOT 3
Motor Vehicle Brake
> Fluid
> 16 fl oz
> Minimum dry boiling
point of 550 F.
> Prices reported here on the list are $3-4 per
pint.
>
> Maybe they raised the price or maybe you got
>
screwed.
> For $10 a pint, you could buy Motul 600.
>
>
>
> >Regarding turning the car off to park rather than
> using
the brakes. Do you
> >then restart it so it cools down with the
engine
> running? If not don't you
> >worry about damage to
the turbo bearings?
>
> Drive around on a cooldown lap or around
the paddock
> for five minutes or
> so. This cools down the brakes
AND the turbos at the
> same time. If you
> drive so as to NOT use
the brakes for the cooldown
> period, I trust you will
> not be
using the turbos as well.
>
> Rich
=====
Please respond
to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 07:50:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
>> Whatever you do, DO
NOT mix DOT 3 & 4.
DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 can all be mixed (even
though DOT 5.1 is
based on a different chemical). It is DOT 5 that must not
be mixed
with any other brake fluid.
More detail on brake fluid at my
web page below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmHere
is the official word on brake fluid standards (be sure to get
all the
characters on both lines).
http://frwebgate.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin/get-cfr.cgi?TITLE=49&PART=571&SECTION=116&TYPE=TEXTJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Christian" <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
To: "Sean
Winker" <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>;
"'Merritt'"
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>; "'Team
3S'" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 03, 2001 7:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any advice would
help....
Hi Sean,
Whatever you do, DO NOT mix DOT 3
& 4.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 10:00:51
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
At 08:03 AM 7/3/01 -0500, Sean
Winker wrote:
>What they gave me is 'SUPER DOT 4 MOTOR VEHICLE BRAKE
FLUID' for use with
>ford focus. Meets super dot 4 minimum wet
boiling point of 356 F. It was
>$10.31 for 16oz (pint). Anyone
know anything about this stuff? Should I
>take it back and get the
DOT 3 stuff??
>
Yes.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 08:11:14
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Any advice would help....Brakes
I will be bleeding some ford
brake fluid into the system sometime this
week. I just snagged some new
Bradi zinc plated rotors from Italy for
275.00 off of E-bay but won't
install them till the braided lines and pads
come in. I have heard about
cross drilled rotors on the track breaking but
for 275.00 for the set of 4
who could beat that?
Bob K.
93 R/T non-turbo :(
FIPK
KV85's
Bradi Drilled and slotted rotors
I will be setting up a website
with pics of my car as well as a section for
buying the machined products to
go into production this week/month.
Spark plug cover plate - stealth /
3000gt / VR4 with triangle
Injector wire loom for front 3
cylinders
Radiator Brackets w/neoprene bushings
Oil cap - that don't
leak
Prices and delivery TBA but rest assured this board will get first
orders
filled before the masses @ E-bay
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:17:49
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
You know, Motul only costs about
$10 per liter. In fact, I just bought some
at the track for about $7
per liter.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Sean Winker [SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 03,
2001 8:03 AM
> To: 'Merritt'; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Any
advice would help....
>
> What they gave me is 'SUPER DOT 4 MOTOR
VEHICLE BRAKE FLUID' for use with
> ford focus. Meets super dot 4
minimum wet boiling point of 356 F. It was
> $10.31 for 16oz
(pint). Anyone know anything about this stuff? Should I
> take
it back and get the DOT 3 stuff??
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T TT,
FIPK, Porterfield R4-S and boiled brake fluid.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001 09:16
> To: Sean Winker
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
>
>
> At 08:33 AM 7/2/01
-0500, you wrote:
> >Some good info, a couple questions/comments.
I just purchased 2 pints of
> >Ford Brake Fluid (Heavy Duty or High
Performance can't remember I'll have
> to
> >look at the bottle
again) it was over $10 a pint. Did I get the wrong
>
>stuff?
>
> Reading the label off a can of it:
>
Ford High Performance DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid
> 16 fl oz
>
Minimum dry boiling point of 550 F.
> Prices reported here on the list are
$3-4 per pint.
>
> Maybe they raised the price or maybe you got
screwed.
> For $10 a pint, you could buy Motul 600.
>
>
>
> >Regarding turning the car off to park rather than using the
brakes. Do
> you
> >then restart it so it cools down with
the engine running? If not don't
> you
> >worry about
damage to the turbo bearings?
>
> Drive around on a cooldown lap or
around the paddock for five minutes or
> so. This cools down the brakes
AND the turbos at the same time. If you
> drive so as to NOT use the
brakes for the cooldown period, I trust you
> will
> not be using
the turbos as well.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 08:03:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 18" Chrome Rim for sale
What happened to the old
rim? You might be able to get it straightened for
$125 and rechromed
for another $150 or so.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Mihai Raicu [SMTP:aa2345@wayne.edu]
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001 4:23
PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: RE: 18" Chrome Rim for
sale
>
> Everyone,
>
> Well, maybe you remember the
story of me having some different 18" chrome
> rims than everyone else on
this list for my 95 Red VR-4. I had bought a
> brand new rim from a
Mitsu dealer and it turned out being different,
> however
> I only
noticed after I drove on it for 2 months. I tracked the rim down
>
and
> it turns out I have the Japan GTO rims on my car instead of the
US
> counterparts. My rim # is MR297592 (Topy 18x8 Chrome rim
MAD-SD3HD) not
> MR
> 197761.
>
> As you can notice, my
rims are 18x8 inch rims not 18x8.5 inch rims.
> That's
> what is
offered in Japan on all the GTO's. So, for those of you that
>
offered to take this rim off my hands, I would like to know, who would
>
like
> to do so? The new rim from Japan will cost me $720 (ouch),
and it's not
> available in the US. So, the bottom line is, how much
can somebody give
> me
> so that I minimise my losses (I already
paid money on one rim, argh)?
> Make
> me an offer on this almost
brand new rim so that I can consider whether I
> will get the correct rim
from Japan.
>
> If anybody has any suggestions on how I can order
this Mitsu rim from US
> at
> a discount, I will gladly take your
advice.
>
> -MIKE-
> 95 Red VR-4, keeping it
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:32:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Custom rotors anyone??
My porterfield connection has extended me
the offer that some of us cant
refuse.
Custom hats/rotor combinations
for the fronts of our cars. (maybe rears,
dunno yet)
Any
interest? Rotors could cost as much as $250/ea, but would be a
lighter
2pc design, where the disc will be interchangable, and would be a
heavy-duty
directional vane rotor as well. (Winston cup type).
?
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 11:31:57
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Custom rotors anyone??
1st or 2nd generation
rotors?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 11:32
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: 3S-Racers: Custom rotors anyone??
>
> My porterfield
connection has extended me the offer that some of us cant
>
refuse.
>
> Custom hats/rotor combinations for the fronts of our
cars. (maybe rears,
> dunno yet)
>
> Any interest?
Rotors could cost as much as $250/ea, but would be a
> lighter 2pc design,
where the disc will be interchangable, and would be a
> heavy-duty
directional vane rotor as well. (Winston cup type).
>
>
?
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> California, USA
>
> You must be fast, coz I was haulin'
ass when I passed you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:41:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Custom rotors anyone??
Either I guess.
On
Tue, 3 Jul 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> 1st or 2nd generation
rotors?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July
03, 2001 11:32 AM
> > To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: 3S-Racers: Custom rotors anyone??
> >
> > My
porterfield connection has extended me the offer that some of us cant
>
> refuse.
> >
> > Custom hats/rotor combinations for the
fronts of our cars. (maybe rears,
> > dunno yet)
> >
>
> Any interest? Rotors could cost as much as $250/ea, but would be
a
> > lighter 2pc design, where the disc will be interchangable, and
would be a
> > heavy-duty directional vane rotor as well.
(Winston cup type).
> >
> > ?
- ---
Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:40:20
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Custom rotors anyone??
> Any interest? Rotors could cost
as much as $250/ea, but would be a
> lighter 2pc design, where the disc
will be interchangable,
> and would be a heavy-duty directional vane
rotor as well.
So "how much" lighter would they be? If dropped
correctly, the stock ones
easily solve that annoying small feline animal
problem.
Also, what are the benefits? By heavy-duty, I
assume better resistance to
warping and maybe structurally stronger.
Directional vanes would provide
better cooling, right?
What are
the advantages of a 2-piece design? Does that mean that you could
keep
the same hat when replacing the rotors, thereby saving
money?
Thanks!
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 10:02:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Custom rotors anyone??
> So "how much" lighter would they
be? If dropped correctly, the stock ones
> easily solve that
annoying small feline animal problem.
- ---
You would have a
LOT less cast iron where the hat meets the disc, and the
hat would be (at
this time, it might change) aluminum. The rotor would
have less metal
in it as well, and the vanes inside it would be curved and
directional..they
would move a LOT more air thru them, and the Winston Cup
design would be able
to absorb much more heat internally to pull it away
from the rotor
surface.
> What are the advantages of a 2-piece design?
Does that mean that you could
> keep the same hat when replacing the
rotors, thereby saving money?
- ---
Yep, when you need new rotors, you
just order up a disk, and bolt it to
your fancy lightweight, non-cracking,
hat.
For those with wheel fitment issues, the hats can be made
thicker..the
- -perfect- wheel spacer.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 10:09:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Custom rotors - Big Reds ?
I will have a rotor dropped via
FedEx today to the fab shop, and they will
look it over. Now..if anyone
wants 1st gen ones, you'll have to donate a
rotor as well..but not yet.
Lets see what a 2nd gen would cost first.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 12:57:16
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: 18" Chrome Rim for sale
Charles,
I was told the damaged rim
can't be fixed. I'll keep it and maybe I'll fix
it down the line and
keep it as a full size spare.
- -MIHAI-
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
>
> What happened to
the old rim? You might be able to get it
> straightened for
>
$125 and rechromed for another $150 or so.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 13:31:06
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Problem with coolant.
Check (or just replace) your radiator cap.
if it's not sealing properly you will overflow constantly until you have a
heating problem.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net
[mailto:profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 7:53 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Problem with coolant.
Actually I just changed the pump
last week. Do you think it's possible that
I may have installed it
incorrectly somehow?
Also I'm almost certain it's coming out of the
dump tube from the coolant
resevoir because the puddle is always by the
passenger side front wheel and
when I check the dump tube, it is wet.
However, I'll inspect the water pump
area for coolant just to be
sure.
> Your water pump may be going bad and leaking coolant as
you drive around.
> This happened to me before it left a puddle in the
driveway. This would
> cause coolant level to be low and also
without any smoke. Check under the
> engine (near timing belt)on the
driver's side for coolant.
>
> Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 13:23:10
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 18" Chrome Rim for sale
Yeah, I was told one of my 1st
gen chrome rims "couldn't be repaired", but
they straightened it and it is
better balanced than the other three. My
wife won't let me use it on
the car, so it's going to be a shop stool like
the guys on NASCAR garage
have!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mihai Raicu
[SMTP:aa2345@wayne.edu]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 11:57 AM
>
To: Willis, Charles E.; Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 18" Chrome Rim
for sale
>
> Charles,
>
> I was told the damaged rim
can't be fixed. I'll keep it and maybe I'll
> fix
> it down
the line and keep it as a full size spare.
>
> -MIHAI-
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> >
> > What
happened to the old rim? You might be able to get it
> >
straightened for
> > $125 and rechromed for another $150 or
so.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 15:30:11
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Hi PerformanceThrottle body 4 sale
My 91 VR-4 Throttle is for sale. I'm
not using it.
It has already been bored out by RC Engineering and has NEVER
been used
since it was bored out by RC. I'll take an even exchange for a
core plus
$225.00 for the RC work that was done. Its available to ship
immediately. If
you want an outright sale Email me for a price. BTW, I have
two (2) of these.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 17:10:48
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
... and my prices before were for a
half liter and not pints or quarts. The
Motul 600 was about $18 a half
liter which is about $17 a pint I think.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 17:12:26
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Sorry ... still mixed up on english and
metric. Correct prices here.
Thanks, Chuck.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Sean Winker'" <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>;
"'Merritt'"
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>; "'Team
3S'" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 03, 2001 10:17 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any advice would
help....
You know, Motul only costs about $10 per liter. In
fact, I just bought some
at the track for about $7 per
liter.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 17:53:29
-0500
From:
kalla@tripoint.orgSubject: Team3S:
bizzare knock
I have been driving to and from work for a few weeks
carrying the
pocketlogger along. On trips like this I generally have the
blitz set
to exceed no more than 1.0 kg/cm2 of boost.
Keeping my eye
on the knock reading I've noticed some strange
behavior. For example, a
couple fo times I have started off at a
traffic light I tach up to about
4,500 in 1st gear with no knock, and
then upon shifting to second and
pressing the gas the boost begins
to build and the knock sum starts to go
nuts. I can feel the timing
being retarded by the ECU and I get off the gas
immediately.
However the boost never built up past around 0.6-0.7 kg/cm2 in
these cases so it's not an issue with overboost. Most of the time
the
car does not exhibit this behavior rolling off from a stop and
accelerating
through the gears.
I've also noticed that when I am cruising along on
the parkway or
the interstate, say in third gear, with the throttle position
such that
the car maintains speed but isn't under boost (0 kg/cm2) it will
start to knock. I was on the interstate this afternoon in 5th gear
cruising at about 80 mph under no boost at all and I look down and
there
was a couple seconds where the knock went from zero to 20-
30 and then back
down again (under no boost!). I haven't been able
to get the car to do this
while I had the logging enabled or I would
make some images for you guys to
see.
The car does NOT do this very much, but did it once during lunch
today and once on the drive home.
What is the car doing? Is there an
issue with the fuel system
(clogged filter or injectors, maybe), or
something else a little more
involved going on?
If I manage to
get a log of this I'll post it ..
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 21:04:48
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
MSD, Gap & boost question?
Anyone using the MSD-DIS4 along with a
boost of at least 20lb or more please
tell me if you can run a stock plug
gap? My old setup without the MSD
Ignition system I needed to gap down to
.028 to keep a spark. I'm not going
to have any tune time & need to know
about where to start plug gaps.
Arty 91 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 23:24:23
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Launching knock counts
Hi everyone,
Walton had touched on this
subject, but I've noticed the same
thing happening with my pocketlogger,
15gs, and stock injectors (stock boost
for now); knock counts at part
throttle.
I usually get some knock taking off the line in first and part
of second at
part throttle building a little boost.
I have NO knock at all
under full boost conditions; pulls strong..
Is there an adjustment(s) on the
ARC to compensate for this?
Any ideas how to cure this?
Thanks in
advance,
Noble
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: Team3S
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 02, 2001 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1. Damage to engine from
driving without oil? 2.
Opinion on partial vs full pait job and
price?
>
> >1. Drove with lowering oil level (full to
empty) for 3-4 miles.
>
> Well, the engine was propbably not fully
out of oil as the cams and cranks
> had still some oil on them. When the
car has not been pushed hard I don't
> think that this already caused some
damage. Besides of this I'd inform the
> insurance company and let the
shop sign a letter or statement about their
> fault. I don't know how good
this will work but at least the insurance
> should know in case of any
later damage.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 23:31:59
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MSD, Gap & boost question?
I think there may be a simple,
obvious answer, but how does one know when they
aren't getting spark under
high boost conditions?
Ken
'91 Stealth TT
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
> Anyone using the
MSD-DIS4 along with a boost of at least 20lb or more please
> tell me if
you can run a stock plug gap? My old setup without the MSD
> Ignition
system I needed to gap down to .028 to keep a spark. I'm not going
> to
have any tune time & need to know about where to start plug gaps.
>
Arty 91 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 16:01:15
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MSD, Gap & boost question?
>Anyone using the MSD-DIS4
along with a boost of at least 20lb or more please
>tell me if you can run
a stock plug gap? My old setup without the MSD
>Ignition system I needed
to gap down to .028 to keep a spark. I'm not going
>to have any tune time
& need to know about where to start plug gaps.
>Arty 91
VR-4
Arty, as the current discussion on this subject goes it is almost
100% that
an ignition system alone doesn't help at all (see the posts on the
message
board) Still the stock coils are the weak points and some testings
are
going on. I have the Acell coils on their way over the ocean and will
test
them too while they have already been tested successfully together with
the
MSD box. But at the end the DIS4 would not be of use if the same coils
for
a non-CD ignition (like our cars) do their job. But it's also possible
that
only a combination of a system that delivers more energy as well as the
coils do the job to prevent spark blow out.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#538
*********************