Team3S
Tuesday, July 3
2001
Volume 01 : Number
537
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Jul 2001 01:51:00 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: 1.
Damage to engine from driving without oil? 2. Opinion on partial vs full pait
job and price?
Everyone,
For the past 3 days my brother had bad
luck twice with his 94 Pearl Yellow
TT:
1. Drove with lowering oil
level (full to empty) for 3-4 miles.
2. Has a badly bent fender and needs
opinion on partial vs full paint job
and prices.
Here are the stories
of the above topics for those willing to read:
1. A Jiffy Lube shop from
San Jose, CA changed my brother’s oil (synthetic)
+ filter on his TT for $50
(expensive). However, the worker did not tighten
his drain plug well,
and within 10 miles (easy city driving) my brother lost
the drain plug and
all his oil. However, he believes he drove only 3 miles
since he
started leaking oil (he heard a bang from the drain plug flying off
and
noticed the oil pressure keep dropping from excessively high initially
to
excessively low). Then he noticed a big oil puddle under the car when
he
pulled over. They replaced his oil onsite after he slept in his car
for 1
night due to this, and refunded his $50.
Question: How
much damage could have happened potentially by driving
without oil? I
think he should sue Jiffy Lube for potential engine damages,
for not doing
the proper job on an expensive car, and for the night he spent
in his
car.
2. The company he works for towed his car away from the parking lot
and
messed up his passenger front fender big time along with bad scrapes on
the
bottom of the front bumper.
Question: I believe the tow
company is responsible for any damages incurred
on the vehicle (not my
brother’s insurance). He should get recompensed for
the cost to restore
the car to it’s previous level. In my opinion, painting
just part of
the car is not an option due to mismatching problems. So, they
should
pay the entire paint job (professionally done). How much do you
think a
paint job costs (+ front fender)? $4000-5000? Any
reccomendations
to good paint/body shops in the San Jose, CA area?
Any
ideas would be greatly appreciated. I welcome comments from all
the
experts on the 2 technical questions and 2 legal questions.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR-4
John – Brother
94 Pearl Yellow TT
driven
without oil and in need of a paint job
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 01:44:28
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
Thanks all for the replies.
As mine is beyond repair, and the mounting
things are torn to hell (years of
wear and tear), I will prolly replace it
with some type of mesh as you
suggest. Sounds like a good idea, and maybe a
way to get a little more
cooling to the brakes and stuff wihtout running
hoses.
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Darren Schilberg
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 2:14 AM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
I forgot
to mention that someone (maybe John Christian or another road
racer) was
thinking of replacing this plastic splash shield with little
cooling holes by
a screen or mesh with lots of cooling holes. This would
increase the
air that goes through while still keeping off most rocks and
debris.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan
Peterson <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Sent: Saturday,
June 30, 2001 3:53 PM
On the passenger side, the abs brake controller
would also be exposed to
possible debris flinging.
You may also notice
a noisier ride, as rocks will be kicked up against
metal, rather than
plastic.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 09:36:29
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1. Damage to engine from driving without oil? 2. Opinion on partial
vs full pait job and price?
>1. Drove with lowering oil level (full to
empty) for 3-4 miles.
Well, the engine was propbably not fully out of oil
as the cams and cranks
had still some oil on them. When the car has not been
pushed hard I don't
think that this already caused some damage. Besides of
this I'd inform the
insurance company and let the shop sign a letter or
statement about their
fault. I don't know how good this will work but at
least the insurance
should know in case of any later
damage.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 06:24:56
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tdc on cylinder 1 not 4
Ken Middaugh wrote:
> There
are only three journals on the crankshaft. #1 and #4 share the
same
> one. Thus they are both at TDC at the same time. One
will be on the
> compression stroke while the other is on the exhaust
stroke.
Just a small correction, our cranks actually have six throws so
no two cylinders
share the same journal (unlike typical V8s). Number 1
& 6 are seperate journals
phased 60 degrees apart (60 degree
V6).
Joe G.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 08:23:10
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
bleeding sequence from manual is RR
(passenger side), LF, LR, RF ...
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 29,
2001 8:56 PM
> To: Robert Koch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
>
> >I have
enrolled in an IRDC driving school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
>
>and 8 hours on the track with an instructor in the car.
> >Any
advice on prepping my car before the big day ie...better pads, brake
>
>fluid, what ever ( I am more interested in not hitting the wall or
>
spinning
> >into it) would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
Here's some advice:
>
> This applies to those who are running stock
brakes (i.e., you have not yet
> upgraded to Porsche Turbo Big
Reds).
>
> Stock brakes will not work at all. If you run stock
rotors and stock pads,
> you will COOK them. After just a few laps, they
will go up in smoke and
> fade completely. You can run stock rotors,
but you MUST install race
> pads:
> I prefer Porterfield R4 pads
(not R4S street pads), but others may have
> favorites, such as Hawk
Blues.
>
> A week before you go to your first event, install new
pads all the way
> around (race pads in front, new stock pads in the
rear), drain and
> replace
> the fluid with Ford High
Performance brake fluid (available at your
> friendly Ford dealer for a
pittance -- like $3 a pint), and bleed all the
> brake lines. There is a
proper sequence for this (RF, LR, LF, RR or
> something like that). Check
a shop manual.
>
> Put anti-sieze grease on the lug nuts, because
you will generate such high
> temperatures at the track, the lug nuts will
sieze. (I've broken off three
> wheel studs because of this).
>
> Install cooling ducts for the front rotors. Install a scoop under
the
> front
> valence and run a 2.5 in. flexible rubber hose to
inside the front wheel.
> I
> just tie-wrap the hose to the lower
control arm and stick it inside the
> wheel as far in as it will go. You
absolutely MUST get some cooling air up
> in there. It's not
necessary to run the duct directly to the calipers,
> just in the
vicinity. Be careful that the hose doesn't interfere with the
> boot over
the halfshafts, or you might cut the boot. You can adapt a wide
> variety
of cheap scoops from gadgets found at Menards -- I've used laundry
> dryer
ducts, plumbing apparatus and gutter downpipes. The scoop mounts
>
over
> or inside the 4 x 8 in. rectangular openings on both sides of the
air dam
> (crawl under there -- you'll see it) and the hose routes from
there to the
> wheel openings. (go to
www.bazillionbooks.com, scroll down to
Racing
> Photos, and click on Heartland Park for pix of my high-tech,
space age
> plastic brake scoops and mounting location. )
>
>
Remove the dust shields/backing plates from the front rotors. This will
>
allow cooling air to get in there.You may also want to remove the inner
>
front fender well (behind the intercoolers) to allow better air flow.
>
> Bed the pads and season the rotors. Read the instructions that come
with
> the pads, because they differ. Seasoning the rotor means
impregnating it
> with whatever materials are in the pad, such as carbon
kevlar. Bedding in
> the pads means heat-cycling them one time. You
accomplish both by first
> driving the car around normally for a day or
two to season the rotor, then
> taking the car out for a little
drive in the countryside. Execute some
> hard stops from 80 to 20 about
four or five times. If you do it at night,
> you oughta see the rotors
glowing red (mine caught fire once). Then, just
> amble on home slowly and
safely, avoid using the brakes, put it in your
> garage, and don't drive
it for 24 hours. The brakes will be ready to
> rumble
> the next
day, dude.
>
> On track: Ask your instructor to teach you how to
brake properly. Tell him
> your car EATS brakes. Tell him you want to
learn proper brake management,
> so the pads will last the entire weekend.
My idea of brake management is
> to
> never apply the brakes over
100 mph. Instead, I would coast down to 100,
> then apply the brakes. This
doesn't get you the fastest possible lap time,
> but it saves the brakes.
(It also pisses off the 911 or M3 you just
> passed,
> because they
want to go much deeper before braking, but them's the
> breaks).
>
> Remember this: Your car is capable of hitting 130+ on a track, but
you
> have
> to stop it from that speed. If you bang on the brakes
at such a speed, it
> will just wear the pads all that much faster. Also,
if you are running
> slotted or drilled rotors, and they happen to break
at the hub at 130+,
> the
> loose rotor can slice off your caliper.
When running slotted or drilled
> rotors, always know where the runoff
areas are, because you may need them
> if (sorry, WHEN) the rotor breaks.
Been there, done that.
>
> Proper braking requires a hard, steady
application of the brakes. You
> don't
> BANG them on, and you don't
slowly increase pressure like you do on the
> street. You get on the
brakes hard and quickly get off. Your instructor
> will show you.
>
> In the absence of an instructor, try this: As you approach a turn,
lift
> the
> throttle, count 1-2, firmly apply the brakes as
hard as you can until you
> feel the ABS (but don't BANG them), lift off
the brakes, and turn into the
> corner. This is not the fastest method,
but it is effective and leads to
> longer brake life because you are on
the brakes for the shortest amount of
> time.
>
> When you
complete a session, cool the brakes off on a cooldown lap or by
> driving
around the paddock area for a few minutes. When you park, DO NOT
> APPLY
THE BRAKES. This will put white-hot pads up against a red-hot rotor,
>
where they will attempt to melt into each other. Instead, coast up to
your
> parking slot, or turn off the key whilst in gear to stop it. Hang
around
> the car for about five minutes, and then roll it forward a half
turn of
> the
> wheel. This will put the pads over a different spot
on the rotor. It is
> important to do this, because otherwise you may warp
a rotor from the
> intense temperatures (see below). If you are running a
stock system the
> wheels will be so hot you will not be able to go near
them for about 15
> minutes.
>
> Check your pad depth
periodically -- like before every other session on
> Saturday, and before
every session on Sunday. You will be amazed how fast
> the pad depth
goes down. Take a flashlight with you so you can see the
>
inside pads. For some strange reason, the inner pads go first, and they
>
are
> the ones that are the toughest to see. While you are checking the
pad
> depth, look to see if the pads are turning white. If you
have
> Porterfields,
> it means you are reaching temperatures of
1400F, and the pads are being
> eaten away very, very fast. I went through
a set of R4 pads in ONE DAY at
> Road America, and had to change them in
the parking lot of the hotel by
> flashlight. Turns out one of my brake
ducts had ripped off.
>
> When you get home after an event, remove
the front rotors and take them to
> your friendly brake shop for a cleanup
turn. My shop charges $5 each for
> this. The cleanup turn takes off all
the gouges left by the pads, and all
> the pad material that's been
embedded. Bring the rotors home, and
> re-install the stock street pads.
If there is anything left of the race
> pads, put them in a box as spares
for the next event.
>
> Prior to your next event, install a new
set of race pads on the fronts.
> You
> may never need to replace
the rears -- they do hardly any work, and wear
> very little. Bleed the
front calipers. The fluid that comes out will be
> nasty looking, because
you cooked it the last time out. If you run Ford
> fluid, you MUST bleed
them, or you'll be bleeding them trackside. The Ford
> fluid works very
well, but it does not recover well from repeated boiling;
> therefore,
bleed out the cooked fluid.
>
> Learn to do your own brake work --
it will save you a fortune, and you'll
> be into your brakes trackside for
much of the event anyway, so better
> learn
> now. Fortunately, it's
easy -- very dirty, but easy.
>
> Remember that your car is faster
than just about anything out there.
> Brakes
> are our weakest
point, but you can make the pads last an entire weekend by
> just
exercising good brake management. Good luck.
>
> Rich/old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 08:27:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
We replaced the front splash
guard extension on all three of our current
VR4's with hardware cloth.
We think this gets more air through the
intercoolers (which you don't have)
and more air on the front brakes.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: cody [SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001
4:08 AM
> To: starnet; Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Inner Front Fender
~thingy~
>
> How important, if at all, is the plastic guard that
goes in front of the
> front wheels. I can see it as being to
protect the intercoolers from rock
> and debris, but I have no
intercoolers, so are these things pointless, or
> do
> they actually
have a purpose? Airflow, Brake Cooling, either way, they
>
look
> like they would hamper any performance, but I would like some
other
> opinions...
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 08:35:40
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle
hows the tension on the alternator belt? when the
belt gets warm it might
be slipping. bad alternator is plausible.
they can check it at the auto
parts store.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Scott Beydler [SMTP:dahogrydr@triad.rr.com]
>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 8:33 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Idle
>
> I tried to reset the computer. That
didn't work. Also checked all the
> fuses again and all were
good. My 94 Stealth idles fine at first startup
> so
> I took
it for a drive to see what would happen. After a few minutes it
>
wouldn't idle again so I headed home. I noticed the charging gauge
was
> only
> showing about 11 volts and the next stoplight I came to
the car died. It
> wouldn't start again acting like a dead
battery.
> What I'm now wondering is maybe if the alternator is bad would
that also
> affect how the car idles? Like I said the car idles fine
when the car is
> started after sitting overnight but dies after it gets
warm. Could it
> possibly be that the idle is affected because the
car isn't getting the
> proper charge from the alternator.
> It
sounds a little farfetched to me but I'm grasping at straws. I
know
> these newer computer controlled cars have everything tied in
together so I
> was hoping one of you had run across something like this
and had any
> ideas.
> Thanks!
> Scott
Beydler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 08:33:44
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
Some good info, a couple
questions/comments. I just purchased 2 pints of
Ford Brake Fluid (Heavy
Duty or High Performance can't remember I'll have to
look at the bottle
again) it was over $10 a pint. Did I get the wrong
stuff?
Regarding turning the car off to park rather than using the
brakes. Do you
then restart it so it cools down with the engine
running? If not don't you
worry about damage to the turbo
bearings?
Sean
'91 R/T TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday,
June 29, 2001 20:56
To: Robert Koch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
>I have enrolled in an IRDC
driving school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
>and 8 hours on the track
with an instructor in the car.
>Any advice on prepping my car before the
big day ie...better pads, brake
>fluid, what ever ( I am more interested
in not hitting the wall or spinning
>into it) would be greatly
appreciated.
Here's some advice:
This applies to those who are
running stock brakes (i.e., you have not yet
upgraded to Porsche Turbo Big
Reds).
Stock brakes will not work at all. If you run stock rotors and
stock pads,
you will COOK them. After just a few laps, they will go up in
smoke and
fade completely. You can run stock rotors, but you MUST
install race pads:
I prefer Porterfield R4 pads (not R4S street pads), but
others may have
favorites, such as Hawk Blues.
A week before you go to
your first event, install new pads all the way
around (race pads in front,
new stock pads in the rear), drain and replace
the fluid with Ford High
Performance brake fluid (available at your
friendly Ford dealer for a
pittance -- like $3 a pint), and bleed all the
brake lines. There is a proper
sequence for this (RF, LR, LF, RR or
something like that). Check a shop
manual.
Put anti-sieze grease on the lug nuts, because you will generate
such high
temperatures at the track, the lug nuts will sieze. (I've broken
off three
wheel studs because of this).
Install cooling ducts for the
front rotors. Install a scoop under the front
valence and run a 2.5 in.
flexible rubber hose to inside the front wheel. I
just tie-wrap the hose to
the lower control arm and stick it inside the
wheel as far in as it will go.
You absolutely MUST get some cooling air up
in there. It's not
necessary to run the duct directly to the calipers,
just in the vicinity. Be
careful that the hose doesn't interfere with the
boot over the halfshafts, or
you might cut the boot. You can adapt a wide
variety of cheap scoops from
gadgets found at Menards -- I've used laundry
dryer ducts, plumbing apparatus
and gutter downpipes. The scoop mounts over
or inside the 4 x 8 in.
rectangular openings on both sides of the air dam
(crawl under there --
you'll see it) and the hose routes from there to the
wheel openings. (go to
www.bazillionbooks.com, scroll down
to Racing
Photos, and click on Heartland Park for pix of my high-tech, space
age
plastic brake scoops and mounting location. )
Remove the dust
shields/backing plates from the front rotors. This will
allow cooling air to
get in there.You may also want to remove the inner
front fender well (behind
the intercoolers) to allow better air flow.
Bed the pads and season the
rotors. Read the instructions that come with
the pads, because they differ.
Seasoning the rotor means impregnating it
with whatever materials are in the
pad, such as carbon kevlar. Bedding in
the pads means heat-cycling them one
time. You accomplish both by first
driving the car around normally for a day
or two to season the rotor, then
taking the car out for a little drive
in the countryside. Execute some
hard stops from 80 to 20 about four or five
times. If you do it at night,
you oughta see the rotors glowing red (mine
caught fire once). Then, just
amble on home slowly and safely, avoid using
the brakes, put it in your
garage, and don't drive it for 24 hours. The
brakes will be ready to rumble
the next day, dude.
On track: Ask your
instructor to teach you how to brake properly. Tell him
your car EATS brakes.
Tell him you want to learn proper brake management,
so the pads will last the
entire weekend. My idea of brake management is to
never apply the brakes over
100 mph. Instead, I would coast down to 100,
then apply the brakes. This
doesn't get you the fastest possible lap time,
but it saves the brakes. (It
also pisses off the 911 or M3 you just passed,
because they want to go much
deeper before braking, but them's the breaks).
Remember this: Your car is
capable of hitting 130+ on a track, but you have
to stop it from that speed.
If you bang on the brakes at such a speed, it
will just wear the pads all
that much faster. Also, if you are running
slotted or drilled rotors, and
they happen to break at the hub at 130+, the
loose rotor can slice off your
caliper. When running slotted or drilled
rotors, always know where the runoff
areas are, because you may need them
if (sorry, WHEN) the rotor breaks. Been
there, done that.
Proper braking requires a hard, steady application of
the brakes. You don't
BANG them on, and you don't slowly increase pressure
like you do on the
street. You get on the brakes hard and quickly get off.
Your instructor
will show you.
In the absence of an instructor, try
this: As you approach a turn, lift the
throttle, count 1-2, firmly
apply the brakes as hard as you can until you
feel the ABS (but don't BANG
them), lift off the brakes, and turn into the
corner. This is not the fastest
method, but it is effective and leads to
longer brake life because you are on
the brakes for the shortest amount of
time.
When you complete a
session, cool the brakes off on a cooldown lap or by
driving around the
paddock area for a few minutes. When you park, DO NOT
APPLY THE BRAKES. This
will put white-hot pads up against a red-hot rotor,
where they will attempt
to melt into each other. Instead, coast up to your
parking slot, or turn off
the key whilst in gear to stop it. Hang around
the car for about five
minutes, and then roll it forward a half turn of the
wheel. This will put the
pads over a different spot on the rotor. It is
important to do this, because
otherwise you may warp a rotor from the
intense temperatures (see below). If
you are running a stock system the
wheels will be so hot you will not be able
to go near them for about 15
minutes.
Check your pad depth
periodically -- like before every other session on
Saturday, and before every
session on Sunday. You will be amazed how fast
the pad depth goes
down. Take a flashlight with you so you can see the
inside pads.
For some strange reason, the inner pads go first, and they are
the ones that
are the toughest to see. While you are checking the pad
depth, look to see if
the pads are turning white. If you have Porterfields,
it means you are
reaching temperatures of 1400F, and the pads are being
eaten away very, very
fast. I went through a set of R4 pads in ONE DAY at
Road America, and had to
change them in the parking lot of the hotel by
flashlight. Turns out one of
my brake ducts had ripped off.
When you get home after an event, remove
the front rotors and take them to
your friendly brake shop for a cleanup
turn. My shop charges $5 each for
this. The cleanup turn takes off all the
gouges left by the pads, and all
the pad material that's been embedded. Bring
the rotors home, and
re-install the stock street pads. If there is anything
left of the race
pads, put them in a box as spares for the next event.
Prior to your next event, install a new set of race pads on the fronts.
You
may never need to replace the rears -- they do hardly any work, and
wear
very little. Bleed the front calipers. The fluid that comes out will
be
nasty looking, because you cooked it the last time out. If you run
Ford
fluid, you MUST bleed them, or you'll be bleeding them trackside. The
Ford
fluid works very well, but it does not recover well from repeated
boiling;
therefore, bleed out the cooked fluid.
Learn to do your own
brake work -- it will save you a fortune, and you'll
be into your brakes
trackside for much of the event anyway, so better learn
now. Fortunately,
it's easy -- very dirty, but easy.
Remember that your car is faster than
just about anything out there. Brakes
are our weakest point, but you can make
the pads last an entire weekend by
just exercising good brake management.
Good luck.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 10:56:03
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
... AND you should have the car running
in order to get all the fluid
through the ABS pump as well.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Sent:
Monday, July 02, 2001 9:23 AM
bleeding sequence from manual is RR
(passenger side), LF, LR, RF ...
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 29,
2001 8:56 PM
>
> A week before you go to your first event, install
new pads all the way
> around (race pads in front, new stock pads in the
rear), drain and
> replace
> the fluid with Ford High
Performance brake fluid (available at your
> friendly Ford dealer for a
pittance -- like $3 a pint), and bleed all the
> brake lines. There is a
proper sequence for this (RF, LR, LF, RR or
> something like that). Check
a shop manual.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 11:01:57
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Even if you drive in the Le Mans you
only need to wait a maximum of about 10
minutes for the oil to get through
the turbo housings. I don't think any
aftermarket "simple" turbo timers
run for more than 10 minutes so that is a
good indication.
When the
racing is over you usually get to do a cooldown lap. Since the
course
is say one mile long you are doing this as an average of about 30-45
mph
which will take you about 2-2.5 minutes. You usually do not use
the
brakes on the cooldown lap, do not go into turbo range, do not use
high
revs, etc. Drive the course in fifth gear and go real slow and
let
everything slow down and use the engine to brake but usually you don't
need
to even do that on most courses.
Then when you get to the paddock
you usually do one or two real slow (less
than 5 mph) laps around the pits
until you get to your stall. This adds
another 2-4 minutes.
Therefore, you have already let the oil pass through
for about 4-6 minutes
which should be good. Remember that the hardest
driving takes 10
minutes max. Everyone else around here doesn't drive hard
enough to
need more than 5 minutes. Your call.
My bottles of Motul 600 were
about $18 a pint. Check to see if you bought a
pint or a quart or a
gallon. I think the $4 a bottle is referring to a
pint. Sometimes
they sell those really large bottles at car stores.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 setup for road racing
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Sean
Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Sent:
Monday, July 02, 2001 9:33 AM
Some good info, a couple
questions/comments. I just purchased 2 pints of
Ford Brake Fluid (Heavy
Duty or High Performance can't remember I'll have to
look at the bottle
again) it was over $10 a pint. Did I get the
wrong
stuff?
Regarding turning the car off to park rather than using
the brakes. Do you
then restart it so it cools down with the engine
running? If not don't you
worry about damage to the turbo
bearings?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 11:51:05
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT Fw: Speedvision Petition
I know this is highly off topic, but there
are a lot of racing fans on this
list.
Don't let Speedvision go to the
crapper.
- -Scott Holthausen
- -94 VR4
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: James Shanks <
SHANKS@us.tivoli.com>
To: Triangle
Chapter - SCCA <
Triangle_Chapter_-_SCCA@us.ibm.com>
Cc:
<
ncrvol@dancom.com>
Sent:
Monday, July 02, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: Speedvision
Petition
> Hey all -
>
> My old racing buddies back in
Indy sent me an item from the FV mailing
> list. Apparently there is
a move afoot at FOX, which just purchased
> Speedvision, to turn it into
an all-NASCAR channel. So now there is a
> petition to make them
realize what a mistake that would be. Here's the
> link if you are
interested
>
>
http://www.petitiononline.com/svsn/petition.html>
>
James Shanks
> Triangle Chapter Coordinator
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 13:25:39
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lifters
I haven't noticed any valve noise since I started using
5-30 or 10-40 Valvoline Syntec Blend and about every other change I toss in .5
qt of duralube.
My car has 55K miles, nearly fastest 1/4 time and
very good at road courses, so it must be doing ok.
I have
the non-turbo, so oil change takes 4.5 qt, I always tell them(or myself) to
ensure only 4 qts, so I can top off correctly with Duralube or more oil.
If I don't vigorously tell shops, they always add 5 qts and I get oil smell for
2 weeks til it burns off.
Kurt / Skyrider 96 Glacier Pearl
- -----Original Message-----
From: anscray
[mailto:anscray@mediaone.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 11:40 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Roger
Gerl
Subject: Re: Team3S: Project update (was: she's
alive)
Roger,
Curious as to how many miles the engine has on
it, as I have just replaced
my valve stem seals and was considering replacing
the lifters while I was
already there... I opted not do so, as I
decided the ticking was being
caused by the loss of oil thru the
seals... After replacing the seals the
ticking has stopped, but
something tells me my lifters are next.. BTW, All
Mitsubishi's
seem to acquire this tick, tick, ticking when either oil is
moderately low
and or lifters are not working properly.. This doesnt make
me feel all
warm and fuzzy knowing its all Mitsu's but at least it they are
consistant
with all models!!!!
Scott
94 VR4
K&N FIPK, Borla Exhaust, Apexi
AVC-R, Greddy S-Type BOV
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 11:00:06
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Changed spark plugs
I changed my plugs and installed the KV85's
this weekend. Used the money I
saved doing this myself and bought that nice
torque wrench from sears
(89.00). Not that anyone should care what I do with
my car but the
instructions on this site were VERY helpful. I learned about
Nm and Ft
pounds. (damn metric system) and found out a little about my car.
My plugs
were gapped at .053 - .055 well 0.0532 to 0.0553 to be exact but
the new
ones are at a nice .041 +/- .0002 nominal. I had some idling
problems at
first but as soon as the computer chilled out its all
good. The
instructions on the site say leave about 4 hours to do
this....I have a
non-turbo and spent a good 30 minutes at sears learning
about Nm and Ft
pound differences. (my torque wrench has a neat little light
that tells you
what it's at) but at the end of the day it was 2 hours for
the change. Very
intimidating at first but I think once you get under the
hood it's all very
simple.
I pick up material today for the sparkplug
plates so the time will be soon
if anyone is wanting one.
Motul600
goes in tonight and can anyone tell me what they use for the
clutch
fluid?
All the info I have been getting is extremely helpful and
appreciated.
Bob K.
FIPK KV85's
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 15:11:08
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fastest time page location?
Sounds like a blowout, if you survive
at least one pass.
Here's a good one that's been around quite a
while.
Not specific to 3SI, but the notes and extra info is great.
http://www.dragtimes.com/index2.html
Kurt / Skyrider
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Aso8@aol.com [mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 12:56 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Fastest time
page location?
Who or where is keeping the fastest times page?
I'm
thinking it may have to be updated after the DSM Shootout :)
Arty 91
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 15:23:48
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
How to: Bad ball joint(s) diagnosis
Hello everyone -
I recently
replaced 2 bad ball joints (control arm replacements, yes) on
my '91 Stealth
TT. Mind you, this car JUST turned over 30k original
miles.
The
car was pulling really badly going down the road, especially on
the
highway. I found myself fighting the steering constantly,
especially
when the roadway was very sunk in from cars/trucks driving on
them.
Diagnosis: Bad ball joints. The play in the joints was
checked, and
both were unacceptable. They have been replaced, and I no
longer have
to fight the car going down the road. And I haven't had an
alignment
done yet to finish up the job, either.
Just an FYI, best
regards everyone.
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 16:12:48
-0400
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: [Fwd: Save SpeedVision Petition]
I apologize in advance if this
message is inappropriate for this list,
but as some of you may be aware, Fox
Network is considering buying a
controlling interest in Speedvision. As
such, they are expected to
expand their NASCAR coverage, likely at the
expense of Speedvision's
coverage of Formula 1, Grand-Am, Trans-Am, SCCA
events and other Road
Racing events that Speedvision covers so well. If
you're interested,
you may want to check out this Save Speedvision petition,
in the hopes
that it will do any good:
http://www.petitiononline.com/svsn/petition.html-
-Steve
- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: Save
SpeedVision Petition
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 11:51:05 -0400
From: ZsF
Organization: SGI
To: dsers
http://www.petitiononline.com/svsn/petition.htmlNot
that it will do anything .. but.
- --
Zsolt - 98 GSR
Sports
network needs home for new NASCAR effort, by Erik Spanberg Senior
Staff
Writer
Fox Sports has quietly begun scouting Charlotte-area sites for
its
proposed NASCAR cable network headquarters, eyeing a February
launch
coinciding with the Daytona 500. Area real estate sources say Fox
wants
as much as 50,000 square feet to house the network. Target sites
include
Huntersville Business Park, home to Joe Gibbs Racing and other
teams,
and Twin Lakes Business Park.
"It certainly would make sense
(to have a Charlotte headquarters) from a
lot of perspectives," says Paul
Brooks, NASCAR vice president of
broadcasting. "Because so many drivers and
teams are in that area, it
would make producing and creating the shows much
easier." Brooks says
the presence of Charlotte-based NASCAR Images, an
archival video source,
also works in the area's favor. NASCAR Images is
jointly owned by NASCAR
and Fox.
The idea for a NASCAR network began
two years ago, when the stock-car
sanctioning body completed a $2.8 billion
broadcast contract with Fox
and NBC/Turner. That deal began this year. With
viewership at an
all-time high, Fox and NASCAR executives have again turned
their
attention to starting a cable channel.
The plan is to convert
Speedvision, an existing cable network reaching
41 million households, to the
NASCAR Channel. By comparison, The Golf
Channel, launched in 1995, reaches 37
million homes. A name hasn't been
selected, but it is expected to include
NASCAR. NASCAR has already
licensed its name to Fox for a motorsports cable
channel.
Fox parent News Corp. owns a third of Speedvision and is
negotiating for
an 80% stake with other shareholders. David Hill, Fox Sports
chairman,
says the deal should be finished by August. "We haven't finished
the
acquisition yet," Hill says. "I don't think the ink's dry on the
paper
until August so we can't do anything yet. We're doing a heck of a lot
of
planning."
Industry experts say the revamped Speedvision will
emphasize NASCAR
while incorporating other forms of racing and automotive
collectors'
shows. Speedvision generates $75 million per year in revenue,
with
annual advertising gains of 40% to 50% the past five years. It
became
profitable last year.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 17:22:45
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
18" Chrome Rim for sale
Everyone,
Well, maybe you remember the
story of me having some different 18" chrome
rims than everyone else on this
list for my 95 Red VR-4. I had bought a
brand new rim from a Mitsu
dealer and it turned out being different, however
I only noticed after I
drove on it for 2 months. I tracked the rim down and
it turns out I
have the Japan GTO rims on my car instead of the US
counterparts. My
rim # is MR297592 (Topy 18x8 Chrome rim MAD-SD3HD) not MR
197761.
As
you can notice, my rims are 18x8 inch rims not 18x8.5 inch rims.
That's
what is offered in Japan on all the GTO's. So, for those of you
that
offered to take this rim off my hands, I would like to know, who would
like
to do so? The new rim from Japan will cost me $720 (ouch), and
it's not
available in the US. So, the bottom line is, how much can
somebody give me
so that I minimise my losses (I already paid money on one
rim, argh)? Make
me an offer on this almost brand new rim so that I can
consider whether I
will get the correct rim from Japan.
If anybody has
any suggestions on how I can order this Mitsu rim from US at
a discount, I
will gladly take your advice.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR-4, keeping
it
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 18:55:44
EDT
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Clear Coat
THe paint on my 92 Stealth ES looked like it was
oxidized or something, it was a light blue instead of the normal dark
blue. When I touched it, it chipped off. It's almost like the clear
coat is chipping off. What could cause this, and is there anything tha I
can do about it?
Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 20:31:14
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
Last year I checked the Nascar fender
wells..no Fender ~thingy~.
They don't have 'em, and now I don't
either.
Kurt / Skyrider (it never rains in calif)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001 6:28
AM
To: 'cody'; starnet; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Inner Front Fender
~thingy~
We replaced the front splash guard extension on all three of
our current
VR4's with hardware cloth. We think this gets more air
through the
intercoolers (which you don't have) and more air on the front
brakes.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 4:08
AM
> To: starnet; Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Inner Front Fender
~thingy~
>
> How important, if at all, is the plastic guard that
goes in front of the
> front wheels. I can see it as being to
protect the intercoolers from rock
> and debris, but I have no
intercoolers, so are these things pointless, or
> do
> they actually
have a purpose? Airflow, Brake Cooling, either way, they
>
look
> like they would hamper any performance, but I would like some
other
> opinions...
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 18:09:20
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clear Coat
Sounds like this car was parked in the sun for a long
time. The only
solution is probably a new paint job. Shop around. You can get
good paint
jobs for 500-1000. They won't be down to the frame of the car, but
they will
cover everything. If you repaint in the same color it will not be
visible.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 22:52:42
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Need Help - Hesitation problem
I'm having a hesitation problem
with my '97 VR-4, and I need some help
diagnosing the
problem.
In 2nd gear when I hit ~6000 rpm at WOT and ~ 11 - 12 psi I get
some
hesitation. It feels like a whole lot of timing just got pulled
out. The
power level surges back and forth to redline - boost remains
constant.
In 3rd gear I start getting the same problem around 4800 rpm
and 8 - 10 psi
I havn't tested 4th or 5th.
Reducing the boost
levels seems to help, I turned my DSBC off and almost all
of the hesitation
went away.
My mods:
Blitz DSBC - max 14.5 psi
Stock fuel
setup
Stock cat-back
Mildly ported/polished heads
Gutted
Pre-cats
HKS Intake
Plugs - gapped at .032
I always run octane
booster - the kind you get at the auto parts store in
the
can.
Could this be detonation? It doesn't seem likely at such low
boost levels,
but I can't think of what else would cause that type of power
loss, other
than the timing being retarded in response to high knock
counts. I installed
all my mods and things ran great for about 1500
miles - now this problem
which seems to be getting worse. Could I be
running out of fuel? Doesn't
seem likely because it doesn't happen
when the engine is under light load
(1st gear) and gets worse when the
engine is under heavier load (3rd gear) -
all signs point to
detonation.
I know the real solution is to get some accurate data
logging, but I'm kind
of limited with the ODBII setup. Is there a site
that will give me info on
setting up the TMO data logger for my car? I
know I won't be able to see
knock count, but it would at least be nice to
see if the timing is getting
retarded.
Thanks in advance for the
help
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 05:31:40
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
... one more note is that when you park
you can block the wheels with wood
and leave the car running and in Neutral
and then in a few minutes roll the
car back a few inches so the pads do not
create "hot spots" on the rotors.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Sent: Monday,
July 02, 2001 11:01 AM
Then when you get to the paddock you usually
do one or two real slow (less
than 5 mph) laps around the pits until you get
to your stall. This adds
another 2-4 minutes. Therefore, you have
already let the oil pass through
for about 4-6 minutes which should be
good. Remember that the hardest
driving takes 10 minutes max.
Everyone else around here doesn't drive hard
enough to need more than 5
minutes. Your call.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#537
*********************