Team3S
Sunday, July 1
2001
Volume 01 : Number
536
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 30 Jun 2001 14:35:10 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bridgestone Potenza S-02
I have them on my S2000...they are the
best street tires in my opinion.
Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 17:28:29
-0700
From: "stealthdevil" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Help! Car barely drives!
Hello all,
I'm in need of some
advice, again. I know some about our cars, but I'm no
pro mechanic...
I'm only sixteen! So any advice would be greatly
appreciated.
Today I re-did the seal on my oil pan of my '92 Turbo. I also
added a
Stillen Downpipe in the process. Everything was going great until
I
pulled out of the driveway. The car hesitates very violently and
sometimes
even stalls. The radio lights flash and their is a clicking
noise behind
it. The anti-lock brake light, check engine light, coolant
light,comes on
and the tour/sport light shows both! If I depress the
clutch, and chill for
awhile, it returns to idle and runs smoothly. It
doesn't give me any
problems what so ever at idle, only when it's in
gear. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Gabe
'92 Black Stealth
TT
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Stillen Downpipe
'93 Pearl White
3000GT SL
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Removed Resonator
- -Pioneer
Premier Deck
- -Polk dx9 Speakers
- -Pioneer 400w AMP
- -Pioneer 10"
Sub
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 21:33:28
-0400
From: "Scott Beydler" <
dahogrydr@triad.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Idle
I tried to reset the computer. That didn't work.
Also checked all the
fuses again and all were good. My 94 Stealth idles
fine at first startup so
I took it for a drive to see what would
happen. After a few minutes it
wouldn't idle again so I headed
home. I noticed the charging gauge was only
showing about 11 volts and
the next stoplight I came to the car died. It
wouldn't start again
acting like a dead battery.
What I'm now wondering is maybe if the alternator
is bad would that also
affect how the car idles? Like I said the car
idles fine when the car is
started after sitting overnight but dies after it
gets warm. Could it
possibly be that the idle is affected because the
car isn't getting the
proper charge from the alternator.
It sounds a
little farfetched to me but I'm grasping at straws. I know
these newer
computer controlled cars have everything tied in together so I
was hoping one
of you had run across something like this and had any ideas.
Thanks!
Scott
Beydler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 18:42:34
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
more HP
You could just gut the precats.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
Bob Forrest wrote:
>
>
www.Team3S.com/FAQeram.htm>
> Forrest
>
> > I took off my resonator, and added a K
& N FIPK, Is there anything else I
> > can do to get more HP,
excluding new exhaust??
> >
> > Brent Hawkinson,
> >
96' stealth(base)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 21:50:37
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: How
to store car outside/inside for extended period, CAR
COVER?
Everyone,
I have a few questions for those of you who store
your cars for winter:
1.Do I need a protective cover?
The car will be in a garrage. Probably
it would keep the dust
off. I am looking for 3 protective covers for the
three 3S in our
family. Two of them need to be for outdoor use, and one can
be for
indoor use, although while I'm at it I might as well buy all of them
the
same. Of course it goes without saying...good quality, no
scratching.
Should it be water proof or not? I saw some people on the
list do not like
the water-proof idea. So, is there such a thing as
waterproof but
breathable? Keep in mind that Michigan weather ranges
from 100+ deg F to
sub 0 deg and smow/ice.
2. I plan on putting
my 95 Red VR4 on blocks, so as to relieve tension on
the tires. I know
how to jack the car up, but where is the best place to
put the blocks
(?controll arms in front?)?
3. Should I lower the pressure in the
tires (245/40/YR18) from ~40 psi to
~20 or less?
4. Should I
place the tire with rim in plastic bags?
I'm, writing you this because
about 3 weeks ago I wrote all of you the sad
news about me putting up my 95
Red VR-4 for sale. Well, now after some
rethinking of the situation, I
am proud to tell all of you that I will
continue to keep it.
HURRAY!!!
However, in order to save some money, I will not drive it verry
much from
now on. Therefore, I will be driving my 93 Dodge Stealth SOHC
(5 speed)
which is cheaper to maintain, while I will be storring the 95 VR4
for most
of the year.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area,
MI
PS. The other car covers will be for 94 Pearl Yellow TT and 93 Stealth
SOHC
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 19:15:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: more HP
>> You could just gut the precats.
Good
idea for turbo cars and California non-turbos; our Federal
non-turbo Stealths
do not have pre-cats.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Richard" <
radanc@home.com>
To: "Bob Forrest"
<
bf@bobforrest.com>
Cc:
"Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, June 30, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: more HP
You could
just gut the precats.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 13:57:33
+1000
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@iprimus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: Stuck. Spoiler.
I just imported the car from Japan.
The rear
spoiler doesn't seem to work.
I checked the power and it's not receiving any
power.
Is there a fuse for the spoiler.
Any help would be
appreciated.
Joel.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 14:02:23
+1000
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@iprimus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: Cruise Control Hose.
Just bought the car.
The cruise control
hose was missing.
Does anyone know where the other end of the hose fits
onto.
One end fits on the cruise control unit itself but can't locate where
the
other end fits onto.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in
advance.
Joel.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 01:19:22
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle
Honestly, that sounds like a very viable reason for the
car not acting
correctly for idle. I would also get the battery checked
out, but it does
seem that some part of the charging/battery system isn't
doing its job too
well.
Spark Plugs need energy to spark, so
lowvoltage can easily be a cause of a
not-idling car.
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Scott Beydler
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 8:33 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Idle
I tried to reset the computer. That didn't
work. Also checked all the
fuses again and all were good. My 94
Stealth idles fine at first startup so
I took it for a drive to see what
would happen. After a few minutes it
wouldn't idle again so I headed
home. I noticed the charging gauge was only
showing about 11 volts and
the next stoplight I came to the car died. It
wouldn't start again
acting like a dead battery.
What I'm now wondering is maybe if the alternator
is bad would that also
affect how the car idles? Like I said the car
idles fine when the car is
started after sitting overnight but dies after it
gets warm. Could it
possibly be that the idle is affected because the
car isn't getting the
proper charge from the alternator.
It sounds a
little farfetched to me but I'm grasping at straws. I know
these newer
computer controlled cars have everything tied in together so I
was hoping one
of you had run across something like this and had any ideas.
Thanks!
Scott
Beydler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 03:10:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tdc on cylinder 1 not 4
Roger --- this #1 cyl is the first one on
the driver's side in the front
bank on a LHD car, correct? Isn't it the
same engine as in a RHD car which
would make that the passenger's side?
Just trying to clarify for our
overseas counterparts who drive the wrong way
on the roads.
- --Flash!
RHD 1995 VR-4
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Sent:
Saturday, June 30, 2001 12:00 PM
Cyl #1 is the first one on the
drivers side on the front bank. # 2 on rear
and so on.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 03:14:18
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
I forgot to mention that someone
(maybe John Christian or another road
racer) was thinking of replacing this
plastic splash shield with little
cooling holes by a screen or mesh with lots
of cooling holes. This would
increase the air that goes through while
still keeping off most rocks and
debris.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Peterson <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Sent: Saturday,
June 30, 2001 3:53 PM
On the passenger side, the abs brake controller
would also be exposed to
possible debris flinging.
You may also notice
a noisier ride, as rocks will be kicked up against
metal, rather than
plastic.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 03:55:16
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stuck. Spoiler.
Joel -- Easy -- usually the heavy spoiler burns
out the tiny motor that runs
it. Remove the rear spoiler, check out
John Adam's page for advice, then
put the wing in the permanent "up"
position, reinstall the spoiler.
Since it doesn't work very well until
about 90 mph and then only provides
about 110 pounds of downforce (and on a
4,000 pound car that is nearly
insignificant) there is not much use for it
either way. The only drawback
here is that you lose a little bit of
view from the rearview mirror.
I can take a picture of what my rearview
mirror looks like for anyone who is
interested. Incidentally, I lose
the lower 1/4 of the view by the rear
spoiler and the top 1/4 of the view by
the rollbar, and with the videocamera
mounted I lose the middle 1/3.
Good thing I usually pass people and don't
need to use the mirrors
much.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comwww.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg1995
VR-4 with rear spoiler manually adjusted to the "up" position
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Joel Singh <
joelsingh@iprimus.com.au>
Sent:
Saturday, June 30, 2001 11:57 PM
I just imported the car from
Japan.
The rear spoiler doesn't seem to work.
I checked the power and it's
not receiving any power.
Is there a fuse for the spoiler.
Any help would
be appreciated.
Joel.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 04:10:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle
>> Spark Plugs need energy to spark, so lowvoltage
can
>> easily be a cause of a not-idling car.
In addition, the
coils in the fuel injectors require a certain amount
of voltage to energize
properly. The ECM can compensate for slightly
lower voltage (by using a
longer turn-on time). But after some point,
the ECM will loose the ability to
properly meter fuel.
Also, the ECM uses the ISC (idle speed control)
[aka IAC, idle air
control] motor to control the air amount entering the
throttle body
around the closed throttle plate at idle. The ISC/IAC motor has
coils
that would be affected by low voltage.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
To: "Scott
Beydler" <
dahogrydr@triad.rr.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, July 01, 2001 12:19 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Idle
Honestly,
that sounds like a very viable reason for the car not
acting
correctly for
idle. I would also get the battery checked out, but it
does seem that
some part of the charging/battery system isn't doing
its job too
well.
Spark Plugs need energy to spark, so lowvoltage can easily be a
cause
of a not-idling car.
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 04:12:56
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help! Car barely drives!
Hi Gabe,
Congrats on redoing the
oil pans seal. I'm doing my
head gaskets and thought about dropping the oil
pan to
clean out the oil/water contamination. Too many items
to
disconnect to drop the pan. Guess I'll just change
the oil
often.
Three general areas to check:
any wires you
removed for your oil pan seal work,
the mass air flow electrical
connection,
If you spray cleaned the engine compartment,
water
or solvent may have gotten to wires under/around the
battery side of
the car.
My battery boiled over and corroded the base tray
and
other metal areas. I used a solution of baking soda
to
neutralize and then rinsed the whole area. The car
would barely
run.....wierd light flashed...tach would
bounce past redline, zero, max rpm,
zero etc. It took
over a day with fans blowing into the
engine
compartment, but when it dried out, everything
was
normal.
Hope your situation is as easilly solved.
Be of
good cher,
John
- --- stealthdevil <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm in need of some advice,
again. I know some
> about our cars, but I'm no
> pro
mechanic... I'm only sixteen! So any advice
> would be
greatly
> appreciated. Today I re-did the seal on my oil pan
>
of my '92 Turbo. I also
> added a Stillen Downpipe in the
process. Everything
> was going great until I
> pulled out of
the driveway. The car hesitates very
> violently and
sometimes
> even stalls. The radio lights flash and their is
a
> clicking noise behind
> it. The anti-lock brake light,
check engine light,
> coolant light,comes on
> and the tour/sport
light shows both! If I depress
> the clutch, and chill for
>
awhile, it returns to idle and runs smoothly. It
> doesn't give me
any
> problems what so ever at idle, only when it's in
> gear.
Any ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Gabe
>
> '92
Black Stealth TT
> -K&N Air Charger
> -Stillen Downpipe
>
> '93 Pearl White 3000GT SL
> -K&N Air Charger
> -Removed
Resonator
> -Pioneer Premier Deck
> -Polk dx9 Speakers
>
-Pioneer 400w AMP
> -Pioneer 10" Sub
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 04:16:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Idle
Hi Scott,
Yep, battery is dying. Seems very
frightening at
first and thoughts of $$$$$ repairs for everything
under
the hood.
The battery is a low cost/simple solution.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Scott Beydler <
dahogrydr@triad.rr.com>
wrote:
> I tried to reset the computer. That didn't work.
>
Also checked all the
> fuses again and all were good. My 94 Stealth
idles
> fine at first startup so
> I took it for a drive to see what
would happen.
> After a few minutes it
> wouldn't idle again so I
headed home. I noticed the
> charging gauge was only
> showing
about 11 volts and the next stoplight I came
> to the car died.
It
> wouldn't start again acting like a dead battery.
> What I'm now
wondering is maybe if the alternator is
> bad would that also
>
affect how the car idles? Like I said the car idles
> fine when the
car is
> started after sitting overnight but dies after it
> gets
warm. Could it
> possibly be that the idle is affected because
the
> car isn't getting the
> proper charge from the
alternator.
> It sounds a little farfetched to me but I'm grasping
>
at straws. I know
> these newer computer controlled cars have
everything
> tied in together so I
> was hoping one of you had run
across something like
> this and had any ideas.
> Thanks!
>
Scott Beydler
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 04:29:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How to store car outside/inside for extended period, CAR
COVER?
Hi Mihai,
Can't offer any suggestions about physical
storage,
but here's a $$$$ savings tip
I remove my TT form my
insurance policy after runnig
Road Atlanta in November and reinstate the TT
the next
year in April for MidOhio. Saves a half
year's
premium, about $550. The first year the agent said I
needed
to keep some coverage to keep PA plates cause
if I dropped coverage I had to
return plates to PA (
that only saved about $100).
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Mihai Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu> wrote:
>
Everyone,
>
> I have a few questions for those of you who
store
> your cars for winter:
>
> 1.Do I need a protective
cover? The car will be
> in a garrage.
Probably
> it would keep the dust off. I am looking for 3
>
protective covers for the
> three 3S in our family. Two of them need
to be for
> outdoor use, and one can
> be for indoor use, although
while I'm at it I might
> as well buy all of them
> the same.
Of course it goes without saying...good
> quality, no scratching.
>
Should it be water proof or not? I saw some people
> on the list do
not like
> the water-proof idea. So, is there such a thing
as
> waterproof but
> breathable? Keep in mind that Michigan
weather
> ranges from 100+ deg F to
> sub 0 deg and
smow/ice.
>
> 2. I plan on putting my 95 Red VR4 on blocks,
so as
> to relieve tension on
> the tires. I know how to jack
the car up, but where
> is the best place to
> put the blocks
(?controll arms in front?)?
>
> 3. Should I lower the
pressure in the tires
> (245/40/YR18) from ~40 psi to
> ~20 or
less?
>
> 4. Should I place the tire with rim in
plastic
> bags?
>
> I'm, writing you this because about 3
weeks ago I
> wrote all of you the sad
> news about me putting up my
95 Red VR-4 for sale.
> Well, now after some
> rethinking of the
situation, I am proud to tell all
> of you that I will
> continue to
keep it. HURRAY!!!
>
> However, in order to save some money,
I will not
> drive it verry much from
> now on. Therefore, I
will be driving my 93 Dodge
> Stealth SOHC (5 speed)
> which is
cheaper to maintain, while I will be
> storring the 95 VR4 for
most
> of the year.
>
> -MIKE-
> 95 Red VR4
>
Detroit Metro Area, MI
>
> PS. The other car covers will be for 94
Pearl Yellow
> TT and 93 Stealth SOHC
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 05:07:34
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
Hi all & Roger,
Good news so
far. The machine shop says the heads are
both warped, AND they CAN be
straightened. They don't
looked cracked and pressure test next week
will verify
that. Cost should be around $350 (includes both).
At
least two chambers have many sharp gouges and the
machinist said it looks as
if something was banging in
there. I told him two of the spark plugs at
various
times had broken anodes (#4 worst #2 also). He
suggested
that the anode may have affected the ring
land and perhaps the ring may not
be free and turning
properly, plus you DO have 93k miles on the engine.
Doing a lower half rebuild now may be prudent and save
you grief later
especially after spending $$$ and time
on the top.
BTW the #4 & #2
pistons at the 12 o'clock and 6
o'clock areas have corresponding dings.
Right now the
#4 & #1 pistons are up, but the #2 wall looks as good
as
the other cylinder walls. I'll rotate the engine
and see if #4 wall
shows any signs of scratches or
dings.
Be of good
cheer,
John
...with 7 other heads/cylinders
LOL
- --- Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> wrote:
>
>>the other 7 heads/cylinders which were 'normal'
> BTW, how
many cylinders do you have in your engine
>(hehe, of course a type but I
couldn't resist)
>
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 05:20:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
Thanks Roger,
[snip]
- --- Roger
Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
wrote:
> >
> >Since I'm into the engine this deep, any
suggested
> >other things I should do at 93K miles??
>
> Port and gasket-match the heads, intake and exhaust
> manifolds
for more performance :)
Most of what I'm doing is a FIRST time
experience. So
does one use the new gasket to scribe the larger
hole
pattern on the head/manifold side and then grind away
at a 35-40
degree angle?
Should I use my air grinder or a variable speed
Dremmel
tool? Use a burr or stone??
Any other hints?
Remember, Flash
might be 'helping' me.
Be of good cheer,
John
...with 7 other
heads/cylinders plus Flash's
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 09:40:34
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: anyone want to buy a Greddy Type-S
I have a Greddy Type-S BOV
that I decided not to put on my car after all.
I bought it from GTPRO a
few months ago, and it comes with the adapter.
It cost me
about $300. Any offers ?
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 14:44:56
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bridgestone Potenza S-02
If anyone is looking for a wet
weather tyre they need look no further
(and I'm in the know here :) )
I've
tried everything and they are without question the best wet weather
tyre out
there.
"Morice, Francis" wrote:
>
> Edgar,
>
>
I just purchased a set (245-40/ZR-18) and am very happy with them. Not
much
> tire noise and very good grip, nice look also.
>
>
Francis
> '96 R/T TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Edgar Francisco [mailto:francisco_edgar@hotmail.com]
> Sent:
Saturday, June 30, 2001 12:40 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Bridgestone Potenza S-02
>
> Hello, Team,
>
> Any
experience/recommendations re use of Bridgestone Potenza S-02 tires?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Edgar
> '91 VR-4, stock, Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 08:56:20
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bridgestone Potenza S-02
At 02:44 PM 7/1/01 +0100, Gordon
Tyrrell wrote:
>If anyone is looking for a wet weather tyre they need look
no further
>(and I'm in the know here :) )
>I've tried everything
and they are without question the best wet weather
>tyre out
there.
Ahem. Last year, my Michelin Pilot street tires worked so well in
the rain
that I lapped some guys in my run group TWICE in one session. Tough
to get
better than that.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 16:10:03
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
> Good news so far. The
machine shop says the heads are
> both warped, AND they CAN be
straightened. They don't
> looked cracked and pressure test next
week will verify
> that. Cost should be around $350 (includes
both).
The heads are "warped" ? Does this mean "bent" or something ?? If
so, then
I'd say that the heads had been off for some reasons and then the
bolts not
been tourqued.
Gool luck for your
rebuild
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 16:24:20
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
> > Port and gasket-match the
heads, intake and exhaust
> > manifolds for more performance
:)
>
> Most of what I'm doing is a FIRST time experience.
So
> does one use the new gasket to scribe the larger hole
> pattern
on the head/manifold side and then grind away
> at a 35-40 degree
angle?
The intake path can be optimized from the port to the channel to
the valves.
The exhaust path has some room of improvment (look at my pics on
the project
pages
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.html)
We installed longer valve
guides to provide a good lenght of guidance as
there have been taken off
some milimeters of material and therefore the
valves would run into danger
to get heated up too much.
> Should I
use my air grinder or a variable speed
> Dremmel tool? Use a burr or
stone??
Umpf, don't ask me that as I let do this one of my parters who do
run their
own tuning shop (specialized for head work). He said that it was a
tough job
comapred to the usual Audi and BMW work he does.
> Any
other hints?
The intake port of the heads has an early channel seperator
for both intake
valves. Most of the larger inejctors have a single spray
pattern (not like
the 360 that have a dual pattern). Therefore they will
spray directly onto
the seperator what may result in a less good or even
worser mixture. When
porting the intake this channel divider should be
machined to provide a
better air/fuel mixture when no multipattern injectors
are used.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 10:20:51
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
I use a die grinder with a about a 1/4"
diameter carbide burr.
The dremel tool is too light and doesn't have
enough torque to do a smooth
job.
I am not familiar with these engines
yet, so I can't give any specific
suggestions about porting or port
matching. Just remember, it's easy to
remove a little more
material than realize you've removed too much. Take
your time and try
to make all ports the same.
Good luck,
Rich
- ----- Original
Message ----- >
> > Should I use my air grinder or a variable
speed
> > Dremmel tool? Use a burr or stone??
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 10:04:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
Hi Roger,
He checked the head gasket
side first with a straight
edge and feeler gauge. There was some gap at
the
center. Once the head is cleaned, he'll do a more
thorough check
ie diagonal and sides.
On the cam side he put a straight bar where the
cams
would rest. The bar would 'rock' from end to end
which is
BAD. The bar should have rested evenly on
all of the machined
areas. That's when he said the
heads need to be heated and
straightened before
milling the head side. If warp is not
corrected,
there would be premature wear of the cam shafts or
other
problems.
I'm not surprized about the 'bent' condition as the
engine
was really OVERHEATED. The coolant would
violently boil out of the
overflow container at the
track. I don't trailer the TT, so I tried to
drive it
home. It got so bad, I could only go 5 miles before
the
water would boil out. I finally rented a UHaul
truck and trailer to tow
the TT 600+ miles back home.
BTW some of the head bolts seemed tignter
than others
especially the rear bank. But I suspected the rear
bank
had the blown head gasket cause of the
inconsistant pressure testing
readings.
I've never had any kind of work done on the TT which
would
have needed to loosten/tighten the heads. I got
the TT at 13k miles so
there should not have been a
need to work on the head bolts.
Do you
consider a 'warp' not fixable?
I haven't checked the block surface
yet. Hope it's
not warped too.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
wrote:
> > that. Cost should be around $350 (includes
both).
>
> The heads are "warped" ? Does this mean "bent"
or
> something ?? If so, then
> I'd say that the heads had been off
for some reasons
> and then the bolts not been
tourqued.
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 14:52:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
Boy he's a nice fellah. Offering to
the public that I will be helping him
without asking me first. I guess
it's the least I can do since he helped me
get into the local Porsche Club
driving events as well as help at the track
for tire pressures, alignment,
etc.
Sure, John, I'd be happy to help you. I've been following the
tech answers
on here so far and am looking forward to the learning
experience. Now you
can get your hands dirty while I take
pictures/video and report back to the
list. I'll be checking Roger's
site for the head matching and Lucius' site
for anything else. I'll
also search the archives at some point to gather
everything anyone has
discussed about this process.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and soon-to-be
grease monkey
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Christian
<
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Sunday, July 01, 2001 8:20 AM
Any other hints?
Remember, Flash
might be 'helping' me.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 22:10:20
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tdc on cylinder 1 not 4
Hello John,
Hope this info isn't
too late...
> I am trying to install the crank position on my 91
VR4. The service
manual says to turn the engine so that cylinder 1 is
at TDC, Caution Be
careful not to turn it to the No 4. Cylinder compression
top dead center by
mistake.
>
> I can't find directions on the
sevice manual to verify I am setting TDC
correctly.
I just installed a
new crank angle sensor on my '91 VR4 yesterday. Since I
swapped out the
old for the new, I didn't care if I was at TDC for #1 or #4.
I just aligned
the marks on the new one to be the same as the old one I took
out.
A
few ways to really determine if you are at TDC is to use a compression
testor
in cylinder #1. You can buy cheap ones at a chain auto parts store.
You
could also remove the valve cover and look at the cams to make sure the
lobes
aren't opening the valves.
> First Question. Which cylinder is
No 1. From the spark plug installtion
drawing it looks like it is the
piston closest to the timing belt side of
engine (drivers) on the foward
piston bank.
As you are staring at the crankshaft pulley from the
left-hand side of the
car, cylinder #1 will be the closest to you on the left
hand bank (yes, the
bank towards the front of the car).
>
>
2nd question. If I align the timing notch on the crank pully with
the
timing notch on the timing case cover I am assuming this is TDC,
Why is no
4 cylinder a concern?
There are only three journals on the
crankshaft. #1 and #4 share the same
one. Thus they are both at
TDC at the same time. One will be on the
compression stroke while the
other is on the exhaust stroke.
You will also need a timing light so you
can set the correct ignition timing
by rotating the crank angle
sensor.
Good luck,
Ken Middaugh
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#536
*********************