Team3S
Saturday, June 30
2001
Volume 01 : Number
535
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:17:57 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued! HC reduced
Like I told you
before, you can clean it. You can also test it to see if it
is working.
The test method is in the service manual. I think it's just a
valve
with a spring. I think the test checks at what pressure it flows
and
whether it leaks when closed.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: ian sweeney [SMTP:sween3000gt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26,
2001 6:05 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued! HC reduced
>
> Hi
all,
>
> back again with my emissions problem (or at least my cars
emission prob!)
> I
> replcard plugs and wires and retested it and
the Hydrocarbons are down
> from
> about 800 at 2500rpm to 400/ 600
at idle to 400. The guy told me the EGR
> valve isnt working. So
what next?
>
> Can I clean the EGR or should I just
replace?
> Someone else suggested O2 sensor. where is it located on the
exhaust? and
> how do i replace?
>
> thanks
>
Ian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:18:58
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pads question
yes.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Andrzej Artymowicz
[SMTP:andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 4:38
PM
> To: 3000GT list
> Subject: Team3S: Pads question
>
>
> Hi!
>
> I'm planning to upgrade my pads. Should I
use bedding procedures even on
> organic pads?
>
>
>
thanks
>
> andrzej
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:20:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hesitation Problem
number of miles? since plug
change?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curtis
McConnel [SMTP:CMcConnel@Pulte.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 5:25
PM
> To:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation Problem
>
> I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder
with Stillen Intake, Borla Exhaust, UDP, Custom
> down pipe, No cats,
stock plugs (NGK) and Magnacore 10mm wires. My
> question
> is: when
I go to WOT around 2700-4000rpms (boost spike) the car starts to
>
hesitate. I can hear it missing. I've replaced the plugs, gapped them
down
> to .032, and have the magnacore wires so I don't think it's an
ignition
> problem. I'm running a little above stock boost @ 13psi due to
the down
> pipe
> etc. after 4000rpms if I go WOT it's fine. Another
strange thing is the
> warmer out it is the better it runs ( not as likely
to hesitate) Any help
> would be great.
>
> Curtis Mc
Connell
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:25:43
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leak from oil cap
The Mitsu oil cap failure is common on cars
over 5 years and 60K miles. I
have replaced the caps on all four of
ours. It's relatively cheap.
Anyone had the power steering fluid
blow out of the cap at the track? I had
this happen with my '94, and I
suspect the system was overfilled.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 10:39 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Leak from oil cap
>
> Does anyone else have a leaky oil
cap? The one on my 1995 VR-4 is the
> original I believe and I have
taken it apart. I heard the gasket needs
> replaced since it is
worn. It appears that oil leaks through the screw in
> the center
though and not around the gasket. I guess there is a gasket
> under
the screw head or something? I tried tightening the cap by holding
>
the back with a socket and using a screwdriver on the front. It
was
> already
> fairly tight but I'll try this for a few days to see
if there is any
> improvement.
>
> I noticed it most after a
driving event where I was in 3rd gear for most
> of
> the course at
Watkins Glen for the 20-minute session. This meant speeds
> between
60-110 mph in third and shifts into fourth on the two straights.
> This
made for some high revs and high oil pressures. When I returned to
>
the
> pits I noticed the underside of the hood was splattered with oil
that was
> also splattered back to the firewall. This was because
the oil that
> leaked
> from under the cap got spit all about the
place by the fans and air
> flowing
> through the engine
compartment.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@pobox.com> 1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:05:37
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
this is
usually secondary to a corrosion problem between the back of the
rotors
(iron) and the surface of the hub (chrome) when moisture gets in
there (a
battery). same problem on the Mitsu GSX. that's why you put
the
antiseize compound back there. then they come off
easily.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew
D. Woll [SMTP:awoll1@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 2:03
PM
> To: Darren Schilberg; Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
>
> You
are really lucky Daren (to get those evil rotors off so easily). I
>
banged on mine with a five pound hammer for over two hours and they did
>
not
> budge. Only after putting in the two 10mm bolts did they come off,
and
> even
> then I thought the bolts might be on the verge of
stripping the threads
> from
> the holes. The design is just about
the same on my BMW but that car has
> never had any problem at all. The
rotors on it practically fall off.
> Challenge makes life worthwhile
(Doesn't it?)
>
> Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:16:39
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cruise Control Speed?
Hi Everyone,
I have a 94 SL Auto
with 46,000 miles on it and my cruise control stop
working. I took it
to the dealer where I have an extend warranty and they
said it was the
cruise control unit and fix it under warranty. My question
is what
speed (the lowest) does the cruise control turn on at? Is it 25 MPH
or
30 MPH? I was just checking because I forgot and want to test it out
before leaving the dealer.
Thanks for any help,
Marc
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:33:19
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: bradi rotors
Does anyone know anything about bradi rotors for our
cars?
Cross drilled and grooved sty
Bob k
93 R/T FIPK
KV85
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 18:43:45
-0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: more HP
I took off my resonator, and added a K & N FIPK, Is
there anything else I
can do to get more HP, excluding new
exhaust??
Brent Hawkinson,
96' stealth(base)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 17:03:50
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: more HP
www.Team3S.com/FAQeram.htmForrest
>
I took off my resonator, and added a K & N FIPK, Is there anything else
I
> can do to get more HP, excluding new exhaust??
>
> Brent
Hawkinson,
> 96' stealth(base)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 22:17:53
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cruise Control Speed?
Marc -- Glad it was covered under
warranty. My question, not to be rude, is
why do you care if it is 25
or 30 mph in the first place? Nobody sets their
car at 30 mph except if
you are in a White Ford Bronco driving O.J. Simpson
down the
Interstate.
It is around there. Depending on the gear it might or
might not work at 30
mph (I tried second gear at 65 mph and the revs were
about 6,500 and so much
torque that the speed varied by 3-5 mph and mine
works just fine).
Therefore I don't think it magically has to work at 25 mph
(and why should
you have it at this speed anyway?).
Just get them to
replace it with a new unit and as long as it works you
should be
good.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com1995 VR-4 with
Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson
5-pt harness,
Pirelli P-Zero tires, and a custom spark plug plate cover
- -----
Original Message -----
From: marc augellli <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 9:16 PM
My question
is what speed (the
lowest) does the cruise control turn on at? Is it 25 MPH
or 30
MPH? I was just checking because I forgot and want to test it
out
before leaving the dealer.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 20:55:53
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
>I have enrolled in an IRDC
driving school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
>and 8 hours on the track
with an instructor in the car.
>Any advice on prepping my car before the
big day ie...better pads, brake
>fluid, what ever ( I am more interested
in not hitting the wall or spinning
>into it) would be greatly
appreciated.
Here's some advice:
This applies to those who are
running stock brakes (i.e., you have not yet
upgraded to Porsche Turbo Big
Reds).
Stock brakes will not work at all. If you run stock rotors and
stock pads,
you will COOK them. After just a few laps, they will go up in
smoke and
fade completely. You can run stock rotors, but you MUST
install race pads:
I prefer Porterfield R4 pads (not R4S street pads), but
others may have
favorites, such as Hawk Blues.
A week before you go to
your first event, install new pads all the way
around (race pads in front,
new stock pads in the rear), drain and replace
the fluid with Ford High
Performance brake fluid (available at your
friendly Ford dealer for a
pittance -- like $3 a pint), and bleed all the
brake lines. There is a proper
sequence for this (RF, LR, LF, RR or
something like that). Check a shop
manual.
Put anti-sieze grease on the lug nuts, because you will generate
such high
temperatures at the track, the lug nuts will sieze. (I've broken
off three
wheel studs because of this).
Install cooling ducts for the
front rotors. Install a scoop under the front
valence and run a 2.5 in.
flexible rubber hose to inside the front wheel. I
just tie-wrap the hose to
the lower control arm and stick it inside the
wheel as far in as it will go.
You absolutely MUST get some cooling air up
in there. It's not
necessary to run the duct directly to the calipers,
just in the vicinity. Be
careful that the hose doesn't interfere with the
boot over the halfshafts, or
you might cut the boot. You can adapt a wide
variety of cheap scoops from
gadgets found at Menards -- I've used laundry
dryer ducts, plumbing apparatus
and gutter downpipes. The scoop mounts over
or inside the 4 x 8 in.
rectangular openings on both sides of the air dam
(crawl under there --
you'll see it) and the hose routes from there to the
wheel openings. (go to
www.bazillionbooks.com, scroll down
to Racing
Photos, and click on Heartland Park for pix of my high-tech, space
age
plastic brake scoops and mounting location. )
Remove the dust
shields/backing plates from the front rotors. This will
allow cooling air to
get in there.You may also want to remove the inner
front fender well (behind
the intercoolers) to allow better air flow.
Bed the pads and season the
rotors. Read the instructions that come with
the pads, because they differ.
Seasoning the rotor means impregnating it
with whatever materials are in the
pad, such as carbon kevlar. Bedding in
the pads means heat-cycling them one
time. You accomplish both by first
driving the car around normally for a day
or two to season the rotor, then
taking the car out for a little drive
in the countryside. Execute some
hard stops from 80 to 20 about four or five
times. If you do it at night,
you oughta see the rotors glowing red (mine
caught fire once). Then, just
amble on home slowly and safely, avoid using
the brakes, put it in your
garage, and don't drive it for 24 hours. The
brakes will be ready to rumble
the next day, dude.
On track: Ask your
instructor to teach you how to brake properly. Tell him
your car EATS brakes.
Tell him you want to learn proper brake management,
so the pads will last the
entire weekend. My idea of brake management is to
never apply the brakes over
100 mph. Instead, I would coast down to 100,
then apply the brakes. This
doesn't get you the fastest possible lap time,
but it saves the brakes. (It
also pisses off the 911 or M3 you just passed,
because they want to go much
deeper before braking, but them's the breaks).
Remember this: Your car is
capable of hitting 130+ on a track, but you have
to stop it from that speed.
If you bang on the brakes at such a speed, it
will just wear the pads all
that much faster. Also, if you are running
slotted or drilled rotors, and
they happen to break at the hub at 130+, the
loose rotor can slice off your
caliper. When running slotted or drilled
rotors, always know where the runoff
areas are, because you may need them
if (sorry, WHEN) the rotor breaks. Been
there, done that.
Proper braking requires a hard, steady application of
the brakes. You don't
BANG them on, and you don't slowly increase pressure
like you do on the
street. You get on the brakes hard and quickly get off.
Your instructor
will show you.
In the absence of an instructor, try
this: As you approach a turn, lift the
throttle, count 1-2, firmly
apply the brakes as hard as you can until you
feel the ABS (but don't BANG
them), lift off the brakes, and turn into the
corner. This is not the fastest
method, but it is effective and leads to
longer brake life because you are on
the brakes for the shortest amount of
time.
When you complete a
session, cool the brakes off on a cooldown lap or by
driving around the
paddock area for a few minutes. When you park, DO NOT
APPLY THE BRAKES. This
will put white-hot pads up against a red-hot rotor,
where they will attempt
to melt into each other. Instead, coast up to your
parking slot, or turn off
the key whilst in gear to stop it. Hang around
the car for about five
minutes, and then roll it forward a half turn of the
wheel. This will put the
pads over a different spot on the rotor. It is
important to do this, because
otherwise you may warp a rotor from the
intense temperatures (see below). If
you are running a stock system the
wheels will be so hot you will not be able
to go near them for about 15
minutes.
Check your pad depth
periodically -- like before every other session on
Saturday, and before every
session on Sunday. You will be amazed how fast
the pad depth goes
down. Take a flashlight with you so you can see the
inside pads.
For some strange reason, the inner pads go first, and they are
the ones that
are the toughest to see. While you are checking the pad
depth, look to see if
the pads are turning white. If you have Porterfields,
it means you are
reaching temperatures of 1400F, and the pads are being
eaten away very, very
fast. I went through a set of R4 pads in ONE DAY at
Road America, and had to
change them in the parking lot of the hotel by
flashlight. Turns out one of
my brake ducts had ripped off.
When you get home after an event, remove
the front rotors and take them to
your friendly brake shop for a cleanup
turn. My shop charges $5 each for
this. The cleanup turn takes off all the
gouges left by the pads, and all
the pad material that's been embedded. Bring
the rotors home, and
re-install the stock street pads. If there is anything
left of the race
pads, put them in a box as spares for the next event.
Prior to your next event, install a new set of race pads on the fronts.
You
may never need to replace the rears -- they do hardly any work, and
wear
very little. Bleed the front calipers. The fluid that comes out will
be
nasty looking, because you cooked it the last time out. If you run
Ford
fluid, you MUST bleed them, or you'll be bleeding them trackside. The
Ford
fluid works very well, but it does not recover well from repeated
boiling;
therefore, bleed out the cooked fluid.
Learn to do your own
brake work -- it will save you a fortune, and you'll
be into your brakes
trackside for much of the event anyway, so better learn
now. Fortunately,
it's easy -- very dirty, but easy.
Remember that your car is faster than
just about anything out there. Brakes
are our weakest point, but you can make
the pads last an entire weekend by
just exercising good brake management.
Good luck.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 22:49:33
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Correction: stock brakes WILL work but
you have to not use them (an oxymoron
I think). This was proven at the
Midwest Gathering last year when some
stock brake folks did "not too bad" on
the track with stock brakes. You
must use the engine to slow you down
though and brakes are cheaper than
transmissions so it is not
advisable. It isn't impossible but it does get
annoying.
And the
last driving event (my second) I warned the instructor that the car
weighed
4,200 pounds (including instructor, full fuel, etc.) and that it
ate
brakes. He basically remembered this until the first turn and then
all he
cared about was that I took the right line. Later when we
finally got up to
speed he kept forgetting about the brakes. I was glad
I had a driving event
under my belt because he surely would have made me run
off the track (run
out of brakes) as he was not very good in my
opinion.
Everything else is perfect from Rich and I have followed it and
will swear
that it works for anyone who is wondering. I only did one
open track day
with stock brakes (light use) but put on the Porsche Big Reds
soon after and
really like them. They add safety not only on the track
but on the highway
also.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 setup for open track
racing
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 9:55 PM
Stock brakes will not work at all. If
you run stock rotors and stock pads,
you will COOK them. After just a few
laps, they will go up in smoke and
fade completely. You can run stock
rotors, but you MUST install race pads:
I prefer Porterfield R4 pads (not R4S
street pads), but others may have
favorites, such as Hawk
Blues.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:53:19
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rims for 92 Stealth TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, June 29, 2001 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth
TT
>What is very important for people to mention when stating
which
>wheels work is to give the **offset**. I see we have not got
much
>contribution on this subject from our devoted crowd of
enthusiasts
>here, which explains why there is no web page devoted to
this
>subject. Oh well. Each person gets to "re-invent the wheel" I
guess.
>:)
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------------
Sorry about that. I believe both of my sets are 42
mm offset.
The wheel dealers should have the proper fitment specs on
hand.
If they don't - RUN!
Although I noticed some are using a lower
offset for 275 size and I
have also found that some companies that should
know their
wheels and tires *cough* TireRack *cough* Discount Tire
really
have no idea what larger sized wheels, tires and offset
sizes can fit on our
cars.
Just a few months back I got into a long "discussion" with a
TireRack
Rep know-it-all who was *positive* we couldn't fit 275 or 265 tires
AND
an offset less than 42 mm was bad bad bad - would ruin the
setup
...............
But to be fair - it doesn't seem like hardly
anyone knows much at all
when it comes to an S/3K does it?! (other than
actual owners of course)
- - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 22:40:16
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bridgestone Potenza S-02
Hello, Team,
Any
experience/recommendations re use of Bridgestone Potenza S-02
tires?
Thanks,
Edgar
'91 VR-4, stock, Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 04:07:59
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
How important, if at all, is the
plastic guard that goes in front of the
front wheels. I can see it as
being to protect the intercoolers from rock
and debris, but I have no
intercoolers, so are these things pointless, or do
they actually have a
purpose? Airflow, Brake Cooling, either way, they look
like they would
hamper any performance, but I would like some other
opinions...
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 11:27:35
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
Cody,
If you have
intercoolers then it can protect them. On the driver side
there is an
oil intercooler and it definitely keeps rock and debris from
damaging the
fins of this. The only thing I can guess is that with the
plastic
thingy there it creates a pressure difference thus forcing air up
and into
those "gills" which might sneak into the intercooler, oil
intercooler, or
radiator area.
One thing is for sure is you can take a look for
us. Jack up the car
(using the front center jacking point), remove the
front wheel, then remove
the splashguard. I don't know if Lucius has
this on his page. There are a
few socket head screws up near the fender
and then some plastic screws that
you unscrew part way and then pop them out
since they spread apart the
plastic anchor which holds on the
splashguard.
All of these will be all gooped up from tar, dirt,
mud, rocks, etc. so
use some WD-40 if you need. Once you get this
splashguard off (on the left)
you can peer upward to the A/C condenser I
believe and the intercooler
piping (if you have one).
** An
important note to anyone who wants to do brake cooling -- this is
an ideal
time to put the 2.5" duct from the front opening or hole under the
front
airdam to the front brakes. Maybe trim a hole in the splashguard
but
this keeps it hidden up under the plastic parts so any off-road
excursion
won't rip off the ducts.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comwww.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg1995
VR-4 with Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson
5-pt
harness, Pirelli P-Zero tires, and a custom spark plug plate cover
-
----- Original Message -----
From: cody <
overclck@starband.net>
Sent:
Saturday, June 30, 2001 5:07 AM
How important, if at all, is the
plastic guard that goes in front of the
front wheels. I can see it as
being to protect the intercoolers from rock
and debris, but I have no
intercoolers, so are these things pointless, or do
they actually have a
purpose? Airflow, Brake Cooling, either way, they look
like they would
hamper any performance, but I would like some
other
opinions...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 30 Jun 2001 08:42:40
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: tdc on cylinder 1 not 4
I am trying to install the crank position
on my 91 VR4. The service manual says to turn the engine so that cylinder
1 is at TDC, Caution Be careful not to turn it to the No 4. Cylinder compression
top dead center by mistake.
I can't find directions on the sevice manual
to verify I am setting TDC correctly.
First Question. Which
cylinder is No 1. From the spark plug installtion drawing it looks like it
is the piston closest to the timing belt side of engine (drivers) on the foward
piston bank.
2nd question. If I align the timing notch on the
crank pully with the timing notch on the timing case cover I am assuming this is
TDC, Why is no 4 cylinder a concern?
ARRG, I just relaized that I
might have gave away the key that connects the crank to the crank pully when I
sold my old block, One more trip to the auto parts store.
John
Monnin
1991 VR-4 (over 1 year 3 months and counting on this 4-bolt
conversion, kids do not try this at home)
jkmonnin@altavista.comFind
the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 18:00:29
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tdc on cylinder 1 not 4
> First Question. Which
cylinder is No 1. From the spark plug installtion
drawing it looks like
it is the piston closest to the timing belt side of
engine (drivers) on the
foward piston bank.
Cyl #1 is the first one on the drivers side on the
front bank. # 2 on rear
and so on.
> 2nd question. If I
align the timing notch on the crank pully with the
timing notch on the timing
case cover I am assuming this is TDC, Why is no
4 cylinder a
concern?
Because it is at TDC one revolution later than #1
Another
stupid trick : I've put a long screwdriver into the sprak plug hole
and
watched what piston is going up to TDC ;-)
Hope this helps a little
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 13:43:05
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bridgestone Potenza S-02
Edgar,
I just purchased a set
(245-40/ZR-18) and am very happy with them. Not much
tire noise and very good
grip, nice look also.
Francis
'96 R/T TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Edgar Francisco
[mailto:francisco_edgar@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 12:40
AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Bridgestone Potenza S-02
Hello,
Team,
Any experience/recommendations re use of Bridgestone Potenza S-02
tires?
Thanks,
Edgar
'91 VR-4, stock, Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 12:53:18
-0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
On the passenger side, the abs brake
controller would also be exposed to
possible debris flinging.
You may
also notice a noisier ride, as rocks will be kicked up against
metal, rather
than plastic.
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of cody
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 2:08 AM
To: starnet;
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Inner Front Fender ~thingy~
How important,
if at all, is the plastic guard that goes in front of the
front wheels.
I can see it as being to protect the intercoolers from rock
and debris, but I
have no intercoolers, so are these things pointless, or do
they actually have
a purpose? Airflow, Brake Cooling, either way, they look
like they
would hamper any performance, but I would like some
other
opinions...
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#535
*********************