Team3S
Friday, June 29
2001
Volume 01 : Number
534
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:00:22 -0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Leak from oil cap
It's an inherent problem of the old/original
OEM
seals.
Gets worse with higher boost.
Replace with the
new/updated seal and/or oil cap or
an aftermarket design that uses an
O-ring.
Problem solved.
- - tds
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
------
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: Marc
Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>;
Team3S
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Leak from oil
cap
>It isn't so much a leak as in a cup a day but after a hard
day at the track
>the underside of the hood was splattered with, say, a
half teaspoon of oil
>after 100 miles. Not much at all but I was
curious if others have this and
>they do. Just like the ticking
lifters.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Marc Jonathan
Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
>Sent:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 6:28 PM
>
>I thought a leaking oil cap was
from a clogged up PCV. I cleaned mine,
>and the problem went
away.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:14:30
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rims for 92 Stealth TT
Those SSRs were weighed at 22 pounds each by a
different owner.
I'm running Enkei RP1s - they come 17 x 9 , 18 x
9.
17s are very light.
Also have chrome plated Adoniz Z-5s - 17 x 9 -
best looking
wheel IMO but weighs only slightly less than stock.
Forged
from Japan. Good luck finding those.
I have a first gen
StealthTT.
- - tds
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
---------------
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; Greg
Gonzales
<
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Date:
Tuesday, June 26, 2001 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth
TT
>Greg,
>
>This is a GREAT idea. Suprisingly, there
are not that many wheel
>options for the TT/VR4. I'll be happy to add a
web page at my site
>with your compilation of this info (assuming we get
significant
>responses). Here is what I just changed to with no
clearance
>problems.
>
>Car: 1992 Stealth TT
>Wheels:
SSR Integral-GT1 18x9 (38-mm offset), 20 lbs each, forged
>Tires: Pirelli
P Zero Rosso Assimetrico 265/35ZR18, 26 lbs each
>Suspension: Stock ECS
with Ground Control adjustable springs
>Rotors: stock-sized
PowerStop
>Calipers: Stock
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
>To:
<
stealth@starnet.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Tuesday, June 26, 2001 8:32 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth
TT
>
>Does anyone have a list of after market rims that will our
cars? TT's
>and VR4's?
>
>If not, whom among us has
aftermarket rims?
>
>Id like to get a list compiled to see what my
options are.
>
>I am looking to stay with 17" but if the 18" look
cool I can be
>persuaded.
>
>Thanks
>Greg G
>92 RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:22:18
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
245/45ZR/17 tires at
www.treadepot.com
for $99.00
Speaking of good deals I just recently picked these up
from
TireRack.com:
Pirelli
P700Z
Size:265/40-17
$109 each!
Special.
TireRack (who generally has good pricing) was
previously
selling these for $280 each.
They work damn well but are
*very* soft - so if you're a high mileage
driver (I have a different
daily driver Z) these may not last long.
But they stick like glue and if
any of you have looked for 265 size
17 inchers you know there aren't so many
to choose from or very
good prices. 275 size is usually much cheaper
due to higher demand.
- - tds
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-----------------------------
- -----Original Message-----
From: Moe
Prasad <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, June 28, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: Team3S: 245/45ZR/17 tires at
www.treadepot.com for
$99.00
>Just saw these tires at the following website. The
price seems pretty good
>so I thought I would pass this on to the
members.
>
>www.treadepot.com
>
>TOYO PROXES FZ4
245/45ZR17 PROXES FZ4Sale $99.00
>
>I have no idea on the
performance of these
tires.
>
>Rgds
>Moe
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:32:44
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
245/45ZR/17 tires at
www.treadepot.com
for $99.00
Make that $172 each.
They aren't going to give them
away.
Still a good deal for a great dry weather sticky tire.
-
-----------------------------------------------------
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, June 28, 2001 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 245/45ZR/17 tires at
www.treadepot.com for
$99.00
>
>TireRack (who generally has good pricing) was
previously
>selling these for $280 each.
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:40:18
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hesitation Problem
Did you have to replace the stock looms?
The
8.5mm just barely squeeze in.
When did Magnecor start making the
10mm
set for the S/3K? I've been happy with my 8.5mm
and they even
replaced one when the plug
came off/detached - sent me a new one for
free.
- - tds
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 6:50 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hesitation
Problem
>They worked just like the 8.5 mm wires. Plug them into
the coils and run
>them to the cylinders. I haven't measured the voltage
but I don't hear the
>belt slipping at higher
rpms.
>
>Curtis
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Roger Gerl (RTEC)
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 2:59
PM
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation Problem
>
>
>No help for the hesitaiton
problem but I wonder how you made 10mm Magnecors
>fit our car. The normal
set is 8.5 mm. How did you measure boost ? Have you
>measured the voltage
on the batt as the UDP and the belt can slipp at high
>power and this may
cause some strange hesitation too.
>
>Just some
ideas
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>www.rtec.ch
>
>
>-----Ursprüngliche
Nachricht-----
>Von: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
>An: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Gesendet:
Mittwoch, 27. Juni 2001 00:24
>Betreff: Team3S: Hesitation
Problem
>
>
>> I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with Stillen
Intake, Borla Exhaust, UDP, Custom
>> down pipe, No cats, stock plugs
(NGK) and Magnacore 10mm wires. My
>question
>> is: when I go to
WOT around 2700-4000rpms (boost spike) the car starts to
>> hesitate. I
can hear it missing. I've replaced the plugs, gapped them
down
>> to
.032, and have the magnacore wires so I don't think it's an ignition
>>
problem. I'm running a little above stock boost @ 13psi due to the
down
>pipe
>> etc. after 4000rpms if I go WOT it's fine. Another
strange thing is the
>> warmer out it is the better it runs ( not as
likely to hesitate)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 00:49:22
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 245/45ZR/17 tires at
www.treadepot.com for $99.00
I must
disagree with TireRack's guess that the Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetrico
lasts only
about 15,000 miles. The treadwear is rated at a 140 (quite soft
for
street tires I feel) but I am on 24,000 miles so far on them and have
had
them to the track once and about three Autocross courses.
There is still
about 25-30% of the tread left although I can already feel
that they don't
have the grip they used to. Still ... for $265 I am pleased
with the
overall performance and then the mileage from them. I think the
ratings
were low because they are stock tires for a Porsche 911 who can not
rotate
them since the rear tires are larger than fronts, it is rear wheel
drive so
spins the rubber off them, and those Porsche guys can't drive as
well as we
can. Therefore I will buy these again in a New York minute.
The
P700Z are also a treadwear of 140 so this is a great buy.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Pirelli P-Zero 245/40/18 tires (140 treadwear and 24k
miles
on them so far)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Todd
D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
Sent: Friday, June
29, 2001 12:22 AM
Pirelli
P700Z
Size:265/40-17
$109
each! Special.
They work damn well but are *very* soft - so if
you're a high mileage
driver (I have a different daily driver Z) these may
not last long.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 00:54:30
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation Problem
When I bought mine from Magnecor 9 months ago
they were backlogged from
Germany and I had to wait three months for
them. Then when they arrived two
of them were about a half inch too
long. And the 8.5mm also barely fit into
the looms and in fact I
snapped one when I tried to push the wire in too
hard. They don't lay
perfectly under the spark plug plate cover but since
you can't see through
that I don't mind.
Magnecor was most helpful through the entire waiting
period and followed-up
to make sure everything was right and I feel would
have replaced anything
for free if needed but I did not need to change
anything.
I don't think they have specific kits for either car -- they
just make them
from measurements if they need to. That's why mine had
wires a bit too long
on one but someone else had ones that fit
perfectly.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 setup for road tracks
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Todd D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 12:40 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation
Problem
Did you have to replace the stock looms?
The 8.5mm
just barely squeeze in.
When did Magnecor start making the 10mm
set
for the S/3K? I've been happy with my 8.5mm
and they even replaced one
when the plug
came off/detached - sent me a new one for
free.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 00:13:52
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Hey, Bob K,
I too have a Stealth
NT ('94), and we're doing Thunderhill this weekend, so
maybe I can offer my
experience in upgrading and setup. I took Jeff's
advice on a number of
things, and couldn't be happier with how tight the car
feels. We put on
Porterfield R4S pads and installed Stainless lines, bled
out the old fluid
and replaced with Motul 600. Braking is extremely fast
and positive
now.
I also took the car to a race shop for a professional alignment -
what a
huge difference in the way the car handles! Background: we
had plus sized
to 18" wheels with Z-rated UHPerformance tires, and wanted to
have the car
set up with a tad of neg camber for the track, get an alignment,
and the
wheel balancing that any new wheels & tires require. We
went to
www.CustomAlignment.com
in Mountainview - what consummate professionals! It
turns out that all
4 tires and wheels we had, when placed on the balancing
rig, were WAY in the
danger zone, but these guys got all 4 to within .02oz
of perfect
balance! If you ask, they will try to schedule you so you don't
have to
leave the car overnight - but they ARE meticulous, so plan on at
least 3
hours if you need wheel balancing too. They can also give you
insights
on any of the area tracks, since they all race regularly
themselves.
I'll give you more details privately, if you like, but suffice
it to say that
the car has never felt so tight and controlled - since the
day we drove it
out of the showroom!
Third kudos for Jeff: As he suggested to you
in his post, we went to a
cycle shop in SF, "KC Engineering", and picked up a
gorgeous SnellM closed
helmet for $100; great visibility, light weight,
flip-up visor.
Single-layer gloves, breathable ripstop with leather palms,
were under $30.
We're ready to
race!
Best,
Forrest
- - -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 16:38
To: Robert Koch
Cc: Team3S
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
$250 for a
halmet is a -lot-. $110 can get a good SnellM helmet.
Get better
pads & fluid for sure..that would get ya thru very
comfortably.
Front/Rear R4-S pads, and four bottles of Motul600 fluid is
about $227.47,
and about $271.13 retail.
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Robert
Koch wrote:
> I have enrolled in an IRDC driving school. It's a 4 hour
class in a room
> and 8 hours on the track with an instructor in the
car.
> Any advice on prepping my car before the big day ie...better pads,
brake
> fluid, what ever ( I am more interested in not hitting the wall
or
spinning
> into it) would be greatly appreciated.
> Please
understand I am not rich so don't tell me to get a nitros kit or a
> big
red kit or something of the sort.
>
> S.I.R. here I
come.......
>
> Also any info on a good helmet that's about 250.00
that doesn't constrict
> view.
>
> Bob K.
> 93' R/T FIPK
Magnecore 8.5's
- - ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California,
USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 03:03:20
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
Dammit Man, how come there are no
alignment places like that down here in
south Texas... ya know how hard
it is to find someone thats ~ever~ aligned
a car that has 18" wheels,
nonetheless set it up for proper camber for
~good~ track use, and still
retain drivability on the street....
Ya have any clues as to what
settings they used? How much did this cost???
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Bob Forrest
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 2:14 AM
To: Team3S;
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com;
Jeff.Mohler@netapp.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Hey, Bob K,
I too have a
Stealth NT ('94), and we're doing Thunderhill this weekend, so
maybe I can
offer my experience in upgrading and setup. I took Jeff's
advice on a
number of things, and couldn't be happier with how tight the car
feels.
We put on Porterfield R4S pads and installed Stainless lines, bled
out the
old fluid and replaced with Motul 600. Braking is extremely fast
and
positive now.
I also took the car to a race shop for a professional
alignment - what a
huge difference in the way the car handles!
Background: we had plus sized
to 18" wheels with Z-rated UHPerformance
tires, and wanted to have the car
set up with a tad of neg camber for the
track, get an alignment, and the
wheel balancing that any new wheels &
tires require. We went to
www.CustomAlignment.com in
Mountainview - what consummate professionals! It
turns out that all 4
tires and wheels we had, when placed on the balancing
rig, were WAY in the
danger zone, but these guys got all 4 to within .02oz
of perfect
balance! If you ask, they will try to schedule you so you don't
have to
leave the car overnight - but they ARE meticulous, so plan on at
least 3
hours if you need wheel balancing too. They can also give you
insights
on any of the area tracks, since they all race regularly
themselves.
I'll give you more details privately, if you like, but suffice
it to say that
the car has never felt so tight and controlled - since the
day we drove it
out of the showroom!
Third kudos for Jeff: As he suggested to you
in his post, we went to a
cycle shop in SF, "KC Engineering", and picked up a
gorgeous SnellM closed
helmet for $100; great visibility, light weight,
flip-up visor.
Single-layer gloves, breathable ripstop with leather palms,
were under $30.
We're ready to
race!
Best,
Forrest
- - -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 16:38
To: Robert Koch
Cc: Team3S
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
$250 for a
halmet is a -lot-. $110 can get a good SnellM helmet.
Get better
pads & fluid for sure..that would get ya thru very
comfortably.
Front/Rear R4-S pads, and four bottles of Motul600 fluid is
about $227.47,
and about $271.13 retail.
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Robert
Koch wrote:
> I have enrolled in an IRDC driving school. It's a 4 hour
class in a room
> and 8 hours on the track with an instructor in the
car.
> Any advice on prepping my car before the big day ie...better pads,
brake
> fluid, what ever ( I am more interested in not hitting the wall
or
spinning
> into it) would be greatly appreciated.
> Please
understand I am not rich so don't tell me to get a nitros kit or a
> big
red kit or something of the sort.
>
> S.I.R. here I
come.......
>
> Also any info on a good helmet that's about 250.00
that doesn't constrict
> view.
>
> Bob K.
> 93' R/T FIPK
Magnecore 8.5's
- - ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California,
USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 03:24:10
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Getting a custom alignment (was: Any advice would help)
From: "cody"
<
overclck@starband.net>
>
Dammit Man, how come there are no alignment places like that down here
in
south Texas... ya know how hard it is to find someone thats ~ever~
aligned
a car that has 18" wheels, nonetheless set it up for proper camber
for
~good~ track use, and still retain drivability on the street....
>
Ya have any clues as to what settings they used? How much did
this
cost???
> -Cody
Aligning the fronts was $75, the rears $60,
and $12/tirefor "Dual-Plane
high-speed balance of wheel and tire assembly",
plus 8 bucks for weights.
And I got more than clues - when you go to a pro
shop, they give you a
*print out* of your settings. That's so if you
like what you got, you can
ask for it again next time you get banged out of
alignment. As a guide,
I've put up the printout for my car on our
website:
www.Team3S.com/Images/FWDalign.gif
. All FWD Stealth & 3000GT should be the
same settings ONLY IF
you're running the same size tires I am (255/35ZR18),
you've got Eibachs, you
weigh 200 lbs, and you're about to run on a track
that goes
counterclockwise. No, seriously, these are the settings I will
use on
the street, too, and they're probably within a scoche of what all us
NT
drivers should use. My car has never handled so well. I don't
care
about uneven tire wear - it's a small sacrifice for this kind of
control. I
asked for only -1 degree so I could get a little help at the
track, but
still be streetable - and they agreed that was the right
choice.
Important note (IMO): Just look at the car diagram - that's
MY car's tire
contact patch using this size tire. That's a nice amount
of rubber on the
road! It looks like a formula car's contact patch to
me. And that's with
the higher inflation (which makes the patch
slightly smaller) that they
recommended for speeds up to ~100: 40Front,
36Rear(!). (And to add 2-4psi
all around if you plan to go
faster). That was reassuring, since I've been
championing those higher
inflations on the list for years... :-)
A little theory (that I
just learned from these guys)... a perfect wheel
balancing is just as
important as proper alignment. Every rim and every
tire is different,
so they balance *that* tire to complement *that* rim at
the professional race
shops. Any place I'd ever been to before simply took
the tire/rim combo
and slopped some weights on it. But THESE guys had a
machine that
rotated the tire around the rim *until* it was a match, THEN
put it on a 3-D
video balancing machine that pointed to the exact spot on
the inner rim or
outer rim for a weight, OR the exact 2 or 3 points if
perfect balance could
not be achieved with just 1! And after they finished,
they tested it
again to tweak it to +/- .02oz. Amazing. No wonder I
felt
vibrations at high speeds - my tires before must have looked like eggs
by
comparison to now being in PERfect round.
BTW, with all the tracks
in South Texas, I'd bet big money there's a
professional alignment shop
within 50 miles of every one of them. Call your
local track and ask who
the NASCAR semi-pro guys use for "dual plane (etc.)"
balancing, and
alignment. Spend the money, whether you're racing or not.
You won't be
sorry.
Best,
Forrest
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Bob Forrest
> Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 2:14 AM
> To: Team3S;
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com;
Jeff.Mohler@netapp.com> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
>
>
> Hey, Bob
K,
>
> I too have a Stealth NT ('94), and we're doing Thunderhill
this weekend,
so
> maybe I can offer my experience in upgrading and
setup. I took Jeff's
> advice on a number of things, and couldn't be
happier with how tight the
car
> feels. We put on Porterfield R4S
pads and installed Stainless lines, bled
> out the old fluid and replaced
with Motul 600. Braking is extremely fast
> and positive
now.
>
> I also took the car to a race shop for a professional
alignment - what a
> huge difference in the way the car handles!
Background: we had plus
sized
> to 18" wheels with Z-rated
UHPerformance tires, and wanted to have the car
> set up with a tad of neg
camber for the track, get an alignment, and the
> wheel balancing that any
new wheels & tires require. We went to
>
www.CustomAlignment.com in
Mountainview - what consummate professionals!
It
> turns out that all 4
tires and wheels we had, when placed on the balancing
> rig, were WAY in
the danger zone, but these guys got all 4 to within .02oz
> of perfect
balance! If you ask, they will try to schedule you so you
don't
>
have to leave the car overnight - but they ARE meticulous, so plan on at
>
least 3 hours if you need wheel balancing too. They can also give
you
> insights on any of the area tracks, since they all race
regularly
> themselves. I'll give you more details privately, if you
like, but
suffice
> it to say that the car has never felt so tight and
controlled - since the
> day we drove it out of the
showroom!
>
> Third kudos for Jeff: As he suggested to you in
his post, we went to a
> cycle shop in SF, "KC Engineering", and picked up
a gorgeous SnellM closed
> helmet for $100; great visibility, light
weight, flip-up visor.
> Single-layer gloves, breathable ripstop with
leather palms, were under
$30.
>
> We're ready to
race!
>
> Best,
>
> Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 05:22:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
Hi Team,
Many THANKS to Rich LeRoy
and the Team3S FAQ page on
the 60K service. I followed it step by
step as one of
the procedures necessary to get to the head gasket.
I
deviated by using an impact wrench to remove the
crankshaft
pulley. Worked fine.
The rear bank center cylinder #4 head was
somewhat
shiny and the piston was muddy brown as compared to
the other 7
heads/cylinders which were 'normal' carbon
deposite after 93k miles.
The cylinder seals of the
head gasket didn't have any
obvious
breaks/discontinuities. But immediately outside of
the ring
on #4 there were tiny holes thru the gasket
near the water jacket
holes. I assume that's the
leak.
Only one fatality -- I snapped
one of the front turbo
bolts off inside of the turbo/header flange.
Guess I
should have used a hot wrench before trying to loosten
it.
As a precaution, I will use the hot wrench to
remove the exhaust header from
the Al head.
Heads will be going the the machine shop to check
for
flatness and pressure.
Since I'm into the engine this deep,
any suggested
other things I should do at 93K miles?? At
60k
replaced the belts, waterpump, tensioneer.
Is there an inspection
access to see how much of the
clutch is left?
Thanks again to Rick
Leroy & the FAQ.
Be of good cheer,
John
=====
Please
respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with
Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 06:33:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
>> Todd Shelton
wrote:
>> Those SSRs were weighed at 22 pounds each by a different
owner.
The SSR wheels came to me from Tire Rack with the Pirelli's
mounted
and balanced. The wheel/tire combo weighs just under 46 pounds on
my
bathroom scale. My stock wheel (29 lbs)/Nitto 555 (28 lbs) combo
weighs
57 lbs on the same scale. If the the SSR wheel really weighs
22 lbs (contrary
to Tire Rack's quote of the 20 lbs), then the tire
only weighs 24 lbs
(contrary to Tire Rack's quote of the 26 lbs).
Either "weigh", the total is
46 lbs. :) And of course, it is the
*total* weight that matters.
Todd
and others are correct in that 17" wheels weigh a bit less than
18" wheels.
Also I found about a pound difference quoted between 8"
and 9" wide wheels.
Strangely, 17" and 18" tires weigh about the
same, in the range of 24 to 29
lbs depending more on brand and model
than size.
The "wheel weight"
web page has some unofficial weigts:
http://home.earthlink.net/~cvlocas/wheels.htmlWhat
is very important for people to mention when stating which
wheels work is to
give the **offset**. I see we have not got much
contribution on this subject
from our devoted crowd of enthusiasts
here, which explains why there is no
web page devoted to this
subject. Oh well. Each person gets to "re-invent the
wheel" I guess.
:)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 28, 2001 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:32:26
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
>The rear bank center cylinder #4
head was somewhat
>shiny and the piston was muddy brown as compared
to
>the other 7 heads/cylinders which were 'normal' carbon
>deposite
after 93k miles.
It is always #4 that causes the problems and it seems
that this ones is not
getting enough cooling compared to the others. BTW,
how many cylinders do
you have in your engine (hehe, of course a type but I
couldn't resist)
>Only one fatality -- I snapped one of the front
turbo
>bolts off inside of the turbo/header flange.
Same happend to
mine as well :(
>Since I'm into the engine this deep, any
suggested
>other things I should do at 93K miles?? At
60k
>replaced the belts, waterpump, tensioneer.
Port and
gasket-match the heads, intake and exhaust manifolds for more
performance
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:18:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Head Gasket -- THANKS
Is there a way to ream the cooling jacket
holes slightly larger on #4 to aid
in it getting better cooling?
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 10:32 AM
It is always #4 that causes the problems
and it seems that this ones is not
getting enough cooling compared to the
others.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 10:53:16
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why large wheels/tires?
The more rubber on the tire, even on
the sidewalls, the better the heat
capacity. On the track, I seem to be
able to find spots that are less than
perfect, especially when you
occasionally hit the "gatorback".
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:
Friday, June 22, 2001 5:05 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why large wheels/tires?
>
> > Having worked at a
tire store, I can tell you why you would
> > not want to run a 30
series tire... POTHOLES ! It's way
> > to easy to dent
your rim with a 30 series tire and the ride
> > is very
stiff.
>
> Good point - I should have clarified - I meant to say
that this was for
> track (road course) use where responsiveness and speed
are important and
> where there should be a decided lack of potholes
:-) I wouldn't enjoy 30
> series tires on the roads around here - I
like my teeth in non-chipped
> condition...
>
>
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 09:10:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why large wheels/tires?
Wider rubber will cost you decent
amounts of HP on a soft race rubber tire
on a road corse too. Lots of
pararsitic drag in there..
On Fri, 29 Jun 2001, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
> The more rubber on the tire, even on the sidewalls, the
better the heat
> capacity. On the track, I seem to be able to find
spots that are less than
> perfect, especially when you occasionally hit
the "gatorback".
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
>
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 5:05 PM
> > To: Team3S List
(E-mail)
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Why large wheels/tires?
> >
> > > Having worked at a tire store, I can tell you why you would
> > > not want to run a 30 series tire... POTHOLES ! It's way
> > > to easy to dent your rim with a 30 series tire and the
ride
> > > is very stiff.
> >
> > Good point - I
should have clarified - I meant to say that this was for
> > track
(road course) use where responsiveness and speed are important and
> >
where there should be a decided lack of potholes :-) I wouldn't enjoy
30
> > series tires on the roads around here - I like my teeth in
non-chipped
> > condition...
> >
> >
> >
--Erik
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 09:47:20
-0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Compression test question
I recently had my engine rebuilt with
Ross pistons and total seal rings from
GT Pro. I am not familiar with
how tightly forged pistons sit in the
cylinder and therefore how much blow-by
they allow. Geoff mentioned that
his RX7 burns about a quart of oil
every tank under race conditions and I'm
curious if this is normal.
I
am currently burning about the same amount as Geoff under hard driving
so,
thinking that my rings were bad already(2k miles since rebuild), I did
a
compression test and found 150lbs in all cylinders except #5 which
had
145lbs. I then did a leak down test to see where I was getting the
the
blow-by from and found that a large amount of air was leaking past
the
rings. I have always thought that you should be able to fill the
chamber to
100lbs and let it sit ten minutes and measure the difference and
if it was
15% or less everything is good. My front three cylinder
sbarely held 30lbs
for 2 minutes.
Any clues as to why I'm
seeing this?
P.S. I see no blue smoke when the wife stomps
the gas pedal in the garage.
Just the usual black puff from the temporary
rich condition.
Troy Browne
'96 sypder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 10:07:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Compression test question
Thats probly normal..on a track
driving HARD you will eat oil up.
Id not worry, the RX7 is a known
oil-eater, in FACT its common to toss in
a 1/2 pint of oil into the gas tank
each fillup at the track as insurance.
These rotaries live on eating
oil..which is why you also cant use cheap
synthetics, because it'll ash and
not properly burn.
Get yourself a catch-can mod.
On Fri, 29 Jun
2001, Browne, Troy E wrote:
>
> I recently had my engine
rebuilt with Ross pistons and total seal rings from
> GT Pro. I am
not familiar with how tightly forged pistons sit in the
> cylinder and
therefore how much blow-by they allow. Geoff mentioned that
> his
RX7 burns about a quart of oil every tank under race conditions and I'm
>
curious if this is normal.
>
> I am currently burning about the
same amount as Geoff under hard driving so,
> thinking that my rings were
bad already(2k miles since rebuild), I did a
> compression test and found
150lbs in all cylinders except #5 which had
> 145lbs. I then did a
leak down test to see where I was getting the the
> blow-by from and found
that a large amount of air was leaking past the
> rings. I have
always thought that you should be able to fill the chamber to
> 100lbs and
let it sit ten minutes and measure the difference and if it was
> 15% or
less everything is good. My front three cylinder sbarely held
30lbs
> for 2 minutes.
>
>
> Any clues as to
why I'm seeing this?
>
> P.S. I see no blue smoke when
the wife stomps the gas pedal in the garage.
> Just the usual black puff
from the temporary rich condition.
>
> Troy Browne
> '96
sypder VR4
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:18:19
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
All -
I've
got new Porterfield R4S pads and cryo treated rotors that I'm hoping to
put
on this evening. Before I tackle the job, I'd like to get some tips
and
tricks from people that have done this before. Specifically, I'd
like tips
on getting the old rotors off (I remember a suggestion to use a
threaded
hole in the rotor to put a bolt in and yank it), and also where I
should
(and shouldn't!) put anti-seize compound to make the job easier next
time.
Thanks in advance,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:40:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
Its really
pretty simple. Two bolts hold on the caliper, and nothing
holds on the
rotor.
Put it back together in reverse order. But..heres some steps
to make it
all easy.
1) Remove spring clips from the rotor to get
access to the brake pads.
2) Remove the pins that hold the pads in
there.
3) Remove one pad (either one) and with a large screwdriver gently
press
in the pistons on that side. Replace that pad and repeat on the
other
side. It may help to open the bleed screw. You will have to
work em side
to side for a while until all 4 pistons are in.
4) Remove old
pads.
5) Unbolt caliper from hub.
6) Pull off old rotor.
7) install new
rotor
8) Rebolt up the caliper
9) Insert pads
10) insert pad
pins
11) Insert spring clips
12) Bleed fluid (if you bought any)..but you
should anyway to get fresh
fluid into the calipers.
Done
On
Fri, 29 Jun 2001, Geddes, Brian J wrote:
> All -
>
>
I've got new Porterfield R4S pads and cryo treated rotors that I'm hoping
to
> put on this evening. Before I tackle the job, I'd like to get
some tips and
> tricks from people that have done this before.
Specifically, I'd like tips
> on getting the old rotors off (I remember a
suggestion to use a threaded
> hole in the rotor to put a bolt in and yank
it), and also where I should
> (and shouldn't!) put anti-seize compound to
make the job easier next time.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> -
Brian
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:35:16
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
Brian - those
threaded holes are crucial. They use 10mm bolts with fine
thread. I bought
mine at a napa store.
Put antiseize on the back of the rotor where it
makes metal to metal contact
with the hub. I know I shouldn't say this but
obviously don't put antisieze
on the rotor that rides beheath the pads. Also
put a little antizeize on any
threads involved. Torque on the wheel bolts is
90psi.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:30:12
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
My rotors came
off using the threaded holes and a rubber mallet (CA car) but
a friends (MN
Car) needed the encouragement of a sledge hammer. A gear
puller would
have probably worked on his but he didn't care about damaging
them as he was
getting rid of them.
Sean
'91 R/T TT, FIPK, Porterfield R4S
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 13:18
To:
Starnet Mailing List (E-mail); Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S:
Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
All -
I've got new
Porterfield R4S pads and cryo treated rotors that I'm hoping to
put on this
evening. Before I tackle the job, I'd like to get some tips and
tricks
from people that have done this before. Specifically, I'd like tips
on
getting the old rotors off (I remember a suggestion to use a threaded
hole in
the rotor to put a bolt in and yank it), and also where I should
(and
shouldn't!) put anti-seize compound to make the job easier next
time.
Thanks in advance,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:47:38
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
Are you saying these are a street
only pad? My understanding was that
they're a multiuse,
street/occasional track use. I've only been on a
track
once.
Could what I experienced be due to fluid? What are
the symptoms of boiling
fluid? My brake pedal was going to the floor
and needed pumping. The
instructor I was with said it was the pads and
recommended Panther, anyone
heard of them? How much different/better
than the R4S pads are the R4 pads
on the track?
Sean '91 R/T
TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard
[mailto:radanc@home.com]
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:29
To: Sean
Winker
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
The R4S pads
aren't for racing anyway. choose pads based upon what you
are using them
for.
Sean Winker wrote:
>
> I agree with going for more
braking, the more the better. My experience,
> even the below
mentioned R4-S pads had severe fade after a few fast laps
on
> a course
that required heavy braking.
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T TT, FIPK,
Porterfield R4-S
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 27,
2001 16:38
> To: Robert Koch
> Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
>
> $250 for a halmet is a
-lot-. $110 can get a good SnellM helmet.
>
> Get better pads
& fluid for sure..that would get ya thru very comfortably.
>
>
Front/Rear R4-S pads, and four bottles of Motul600 fluid is about
$227.47,
> and about $271.13 retail.
>
> On Wed, 27 Jun 2001,
Robert Koch wrote:
>
> >
> > I have enrolled in an IRDC
driving school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
> > and 8 hours on the
track with an instructor in the car.
> > Any advice on prepping my car
before the big day ie...better pads, brake
> > fluid, what ever ( I am
more interested in not hitting the wall or
> spinning
> > into
it) would be greatly appreciated.
> > Please understand I am not rich
so don't tell me to get a nitros kit or
a
> > big red kit or
something of the sort.
> >
> > S.I.R. here I
come.......
> >
> > Also any info on a good helmet that's
about 250.00 that doesn't
constrict
> > view.
> >
>
> Bob K.
> > 93' R/T FIPK Magnecore 8.5's
>
>
---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
>
California, USA
>
> You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I
passed you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:48:48
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
I must have had it
easy. Rotors came right off. I think because they were
removed,
turned, and put back on at a Meineke shop so they were loosened
already or
might have had some anti-seize on it.
I had some pictures of the front
left wheel with no rotor so you could see
where it meets the hub but I can't
find them now. I am slowly finding other
pictures I lost but some are
on my webpage as far as SS lines and Big Reds.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comwww.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg1995
VR-4 with Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson
5-pt
harness, Pirelli P-Zero tires, and a custom spark plug plate cover
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
To:
'Geddes, Brian J' <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>; Team3S
Mailing List
(E-mail) <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 2:30 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted:
Changing pads/rotors
My rotors came off using the threaded holes and
a rubber mallet (CA car) but
a friends (MN Car) needed the encouragement of a
sledge hammer. A gear
puller would have probably worked on his but he
didn't care about damaging
them as he was getting rid of
them.
Sean
'91 R/T TT, FIPK, Porterfield R4S
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:11:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
The R4-S pads CAN be used for
racing..just depends on a lot of things.
They cant do long evnets on heavy
cars, but I do abuse them as best I can
in my MR-S and after 5 events theyre
not even half done yet.
The R4 pad takes heat better, and has a ceramic
insulator to help keep the
calipers cooler.
R4-E pads are for
endurance events (many hours), and should be discarded
after each
use.
For the VR4, R4 pads _help_ but depending on braking style, and
the
course..may still be inadequate.
Add venting..yes..
On Fri,
29 Jun 2001, Sean Winker wrote:
> Are you saying these are a street
only pad? My understanding was that
> they're a multiuse,
street/occasional track use. I've only been on a track
>
once.
>
> Could what I experienced be due to fluid? What are
the symptoms of boiling
> fluid? My brake pedal was going to the
floor and needed pumping. The
> instructor I was with said it was
the pads and recommended Panther, anyone
> heard of them? How much
different/better than the R4S pads are the R4
pads
> on the
track?
>
> Sean '91 R/T TT
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Richard [mailto:radanc@home.com]
> Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 11:29
> To: Sean Winker
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Any advice would help....
>
>
> The R4S pads aren't for
racing anyway. choose pads based upon what you
> are using them
for.
>
> Sean Winker wrote:
> >
> > I agree with
going for more braking, the more the better. My experience,
> >
even the below mentioned R4-S pads had severe fade after a few fast laps
>
on
> > a course that required heavy braking.
> >
> >
Sean
> > '91 R/T TT, FIPK, Porterfield R4-S
> >
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001
16:38
> > To: Robert Koch
> > Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
> >
> > $250
for a halmet is a -lot-. $110 can get a good SnellM helmet.
> >
> > Get better pads & fluid for sure..that would get ya thru very
comfortably.
> >
> > Front/Rear R4-S pads, and four bottles
of Motul600 fluid is about $227.47,
> > and about $271.13
retail.
> >
> > On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Robert Koch
wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I have enrolled in an
IRDC driving school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
> > > and 8 hours
on the track with an instructor in the car.
> > > Any advice on
prepping my car before the big day ie...better pads, brake
> > >
fluid, what ever ( I am more interested in not hitting the wall or
> >
spinning
> > > into it) would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> Please understand I am not rich so don't tell me to get a nitros kit
or
> a
> > > big red kit or something of the sort.
>
> >
> > > S.I.R. here I come.......
> > >
>
> > Also any info on a good helmet that's about 250.00 that
doesn't
> constrict
> > > view.
> > >
> >
> Bob K.
> > > 93' R/T FIPK Magnecore 8.5's
> >
>
> ---
> > Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> >
California, USA
> >
> > You must be fast, coz I was haulin'
ass when I passed you..
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:02:55
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tips/Tricks wanted: Changing pads/rotors
You are really
lucky Daren (to get those evil rotors off so easily). I
banged on mine with a
five pound hammer for over two hours and they did not
budge. Only after
putting in the two 10mm bolts did they come off, and even
then I thought the
bolts might be on the verge of stripping the threads from
the holes. The
design is just about the same on my BMW but that car has
never had any
problem at all. The rotors on it practically fall off.
Challenge makes life
worthwhile (Doesn't it?)
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 15:00:16
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Panther pads are good (great as
referred to by Chuck Willis) but that is not
your problem now. Get some
good fluid (Motul 600 from Jeff Mohler) and that
will solve one part.
Then do rotors. Then pads. Keep upgrading until you
fixed them
all. Eventually you will have air ducts running to them.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comhttp://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm1995
VR-4 with Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson
5-pt
harness, Pirelli P-Zero tires, and a custom spark plug plate cover
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
To:
'Richard' <
radanc@home.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 29, 2001 2:47 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any advice would
help....
Are you saying these are a street only pad? My
understanding was that
they're a multiuse, street/occasional track use.
I've only been on a track
once.
Could what I experienced be due to
fluid? What are the symptoms of boiling
fluid? My brake pedal was
going to the floor and needed pumping. The
instructor I was with said
it was the pads and recommended Panther, anyone
heard of them? How much
different/better than the R4S pads are the R4 pads
on the track?
Sean
'91 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:20:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
Just FYI.
Brake Fade:
You push on the pedal..its firm, but you get no braking.
Pads are too
hot.
Boiled fluid: You push on the pedal, it sinks and you dont get
any
braking. After a "while" it gets stiffer as the fluid cools
down.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#534
*********************
