Team3S
Thursday, June 28
2001
Volume 01 : Number
533
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jun 2001 17:27:19 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fastest time page location?
Also ... I updated my mods list on
3Si and noted that it also has a place
for 1/4, 1/8, 60-foot times, 1/4
speed, and then shoots out a hp number as
long as you know the weight of the
car.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comhttp://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm1995
VR-4 with Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson
5-pt
harness, Pirelli P-Zero tires, and a custom spark plug plate cover
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Gendron <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fastest time page
location?
Hey Arty,
I have it and I keep it updated. Its
located at:
http://www.mn3s.org/fastest3s.htmlJust
send me an e-mail with the proper documentation after the DSM shootout
and
I'll be happy to post it. I'll be looking for the 9.xx @ 140 mph.
:-)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 22:59:08
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation Problem
No help for the hesitaiton problem but I
wonder how you made 10mm Magnecors
fit our car. The normal set is 8.5 mm. How
did you measure boost ? Have you
measured the voltage on the batt as the UDP
and the belt can slipp at high
power and this may cause some strange
hesitation too.
Just some ideas
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- -----Ursprüngliche
Nachricht-----
Von: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
An: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet:
Mittwoch, 27. Juni 2001 00:24
Betreff: Team3S: Hesitation
Problem
> I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with Stillen Intake, Borla
Exhaust, UDP, Custom
> down pipe, No cats, stock plugs (NGK) and Magnacore
10mm wires. My
question
> is: when I go to WOT around 2700-4000rpms
(boost spike) the car starts to
> hesitate. I can hear it missing. I've
replaced the plugs, gapped them down
> to .032, and have the magnacore
wires so I don't think it's an ignition
> problem. I'm running a little
above stock boost @ 13psi due to the down
pipe
> etc. after 4000rpms if
I go WOT it's fine. Another strange thing is the
> warmer out it is the
better it runs ( not as likely to hesitate)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 16:35:04
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any advice would help....
I agree with going for more
braking, the more the better. My experience,
even the below mentioned
R4-S pads had severe fade after a few fast laps on
a course that required
heavy braking.
Sean
'91 R/T TT, FIPK, Porterfield R4-S
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001
16:38
To: Robert Koch
Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any
advice would help....
$250 for a halmet is a -lot-. $110 can
get a good SnellM helmet.
Get better pads & fluid for sure..that
would get ya thru very comfortably.
Front/Rear R4-S pads, and four
bottles of Motul600 fluid is about $227.47,
and about $271.13
retail.
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Robert Koch wrote:
>
> I
have enrolled in an IRDC driving school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
>
and 8 hours on the track with an instructor in the car.
> Any advice on
prepping my car before the big day ie...better pads, brake
> fluid, what
ever ( I am more interested in not hitting the wall or
spinning
> into
it) would be greatly appreciated.
> Please understand I am not rich so
don't tell me to get a nitros kit or a
> big red kit or something of the
sort.
>
> S.I.R. here I come.......
>
> Also any info
on a good helmet that's about 250.00 that doesn't constrict
>
view.
>
> Bob K.
> 93' R/T FIPK Magnecore 8.5's
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 17:55:34
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Safety is the key word. Braking
is an even bigger word but if you don't
have good brakes you CAN get through
the course you just use the engine to
slow you down before applying the
brakes. Not the fastest but you get to
drive the car home
afterwards.
Try and get a used set of front rotors and pads before you go
in case you
break anything you can put them back on (I have both for anyone
interested
but I like keeping them for my own backup).
Fluid (Motul
600) is good as well. Sure the high temp Ford might work just
as well
but the last thing going through my head when hitting the brakes at
120 mph
should NOT be, "I hope this fluid works." I use the stuff so
the
thought never enters but I can say with confidence, "This fluid
will
definitely stop me." It's those little thoughts that save seconds
all by
themselves.
Get used to bleeding the brakes in case you start
to boil whatever fluid you
may have. A clear jar and surgical tube
(Home Depot for $0.10 per foot) is
all you really need plus a friend to pump
the brake pedal.
Tire pressure gauge. Tires that are not super hard
and will work (treadwear
of 300 is not recommended for track use and 40
treadwear Autocross tires
will wear out too quickly). My street Pirelli
P-Zero tires of 140 treadwear
are a great street tire and very good on the
track. Most street tires are
good since they will squeal (i.e. "talk")
to you before they let go and that
is good for beginning people.
Get
pics of the track, videos (if available), printouts, etc. and learn as
much
as you can. Try and determine the steepness of the turns, when
and
where they occur, etc. so you can close your eyes and do at least three
laps
of the track with no mistakes. This makes one less thing to have
to learn
at the track. If you know Turn 1 at Watkins Glen is a slight
downhill and
right-hand turn to a right-hand Turn 2 then you know you can
stay out to the
left for Turn 2 (instead of cutting back to the right if Turn
2 would be a
left0hand turn). Gotta think several turns ahead.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.comhttp://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm1995
VR-4 with Big Reds, cryo-treated rotors (front, street and track),
Pagid
Orange pads (front, track), Porterfield R4-S pads (rear, street and
track),
Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, Simpson 5-pt harness,
Pirelli P-Zero
245/40/18 tires (street), Yokohama A-032R 255/45/17 tires
(track), Motul 600
brake fluid, Goodridge SS brake lines, Magnecor KV85
wires, and a custom
spark plug plate cover
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Robert
Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 5:18 PM
I have enrolled in an IRDC driving
school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
and 8 hours on the track with an
instructor in the car.
Any advice on prepping my car before the big day
ie...better pads, brake
fluid, what ever ( I am more interested in not
hitting the wall or spinning
into it) would be greatly appreciated.
Please
understand I am not rich so don't tell me to get a nitros kit or a
big red
kit or something of the sort.
S.I.R. here I come.......
Also any
info on a good helmet that's about 250.00 that doesn't
constrict
view.
Bob K.
93' R/T FIPK Magnecore
8.5's
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:01:20
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
... and an open-face helmet provides
the most view but I would prefer to
have to turn my head a half inch in order
to see a mirror while having a
full-face helmet. I would prefer to be
more safe than having the luxury of
not having to move my head.
One
REALLY important thing is practice before you go. Where the
clothes,
shoes, helmet, etc. in the car on a remote road and practice what it
is
like. Turn off the CD player, get in the mindset that you are
driving at 80
mph. Open all the windows and close the sunroof.
You will find that you
have to drive by watching the gauges as you will not
be able to listen to
the engine or exhaust anymore.
Drive mostly in
third and fourth gear and then dip down to a few second gear
turns. I
think only three tracks in the US allow is to get into fifth gear
(Road
Atlanta and two others perhaps). Everything else is drive in third
and
fourth and occasionally second. Learn where the torque curve is in
the
RPM for each gear, how much engine braking each gear provides, and how
long
it takes to "get going" after pressing the gas.
My worst fear
came true when I was practicing heel-and-toe with my tennis
shoes but forgot
that the driving shoes were more narrow. The first time I
stepped in to
heel-and-toe my foot hit the floor and went right between the
pedals. I
was devastated. I practiced for nothing.
Above all -- be
careful.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 setup for open track
racing
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 17:11:15
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
Changing the brake fluid is not a
choice. If you try to run on the track
with brake fluid more than a
year or so old, it will most likely boil within
the first few laps. I
suggest switching to Motul. Otherwise, assuming you
have enough brake
pad, everything else is optional.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:28:10
-0400
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leak from oil cap
I thought a leaking oil cap was from a
clogged up PCV. I cleaned mine,
and the problem went away.
Date:
Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:45:09 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leak from oil cap
>I noticed it most after a driving event
where I was in 3rd gear for most of
>the course at Watkins Glen for the
20-minute session. When I returned to the
>pits I noticed the
underside of the hood was splattered with oil that was
>also splattered
back to the firewall. This was because the oil that leaked
>from
under the cap got spit all about the place by the fans and air
flowing
>through the engine compartment.
Me too. Sigh. Welcome to
the world of VR4 racing.
Wait'll your Getrag decides to start belching fluid
through its
breather.
That's a mess too.
Only happens on the track.
Rich>
- --
Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware
Development
Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:02:02
-0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leak from oil cap
> I thought a leaking oil cap was from a
clogged up PCV. I cleaned mine,
> and the problem went
away.
Agreed - PCV valves are cheap and very easy to change, but it's
also easy to
forget to do this as often as you should. Even if yours
isn't very old, try
changing it anyway! Our oil caps aren't really
designed to hold in a
pressurized charge, but they should keep splashing oil
from getting out
unless the seals are bad.
Roger Roskam
91 Indy
Stealth TT
3-speed manual (forward gears only)!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:07:01
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leak from oil cap
It isn't so much a leak as in a cup a day but
after a hard day at the track
the underside of the hood was splattered with,
say, a half teaspoon of oil
after 100 miles. Not much at all but I was
curious if others have this and
they do. Just like the ticking
lifters.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs
<
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 27, 2001 6:28 PM
I thought a leaking oil cap was from
a clogged up PCV. I cleaned mine,
and the problem went
away.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 16:21:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leak from oil cap
3S oil caps also suck..the rubber seal gets
old and allows leaks.
The cam(s) splash oil onto the cap directly..and
over time it'll leak
some.
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Roger J. Roskam
wrote:
> > I thought a leaking oil cap was from a clogged up
PCV. I cleaned mine,
> > and the problem went away.
>
> Agreed - PCV valves are cheap and very easy to change, but it's also
easy to
> forget to do this as often as you should. Even if yours
isn't very old, try
> changing it anyway! Our oil caps aren't really
designed to hold in a
> pressurized charge, but they should keep splashing
oil from getting out
> unless the seals are bad.
>
> Roger
Roskam
> 91 Indy Stealth TT
> 3-speed manual (forward gears
only)!
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 16:23:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leak from oil cap
Thats nothin..
Our RX7TT will eat a
quart of oil per tank of gas at the track..that could
be 2 quarts in a
day. And its perfectly normal.
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Darren
Schilberg wrote:
> It isn't so much a leak as in a cup a day but after
a hard day at the track
> the underside of the hood was splattered with,
say, a half teaspoon of oil
> after 100 miles. Not much at all but I
was curious if others have this and
> they do. Just like the ticking
lifters.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Marc
Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 6:28 PM
>
>
> I thought a
leaking oil cap was from a clogged up PCV. I cleaned mine,
> and the
problem went away.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 17:57:22
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hesitation Problem
They worked just like the 8.5 mm wires. Plug
them into the coils and run
them to the cylinders. I haven't measured the
voltage but I don't hear the
belt slipping at higher
rpms.
Curtis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
(RTEC) [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 2:59
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation Problem
No help for the hesitaiton problem but
I wonder how you made 10mm Magnecors
fit our car. The normal set is 8.5 mm.
How did you measure boost ? Have you
measured the voltage on the batt as the
UDP and the belt can slipp at high
power and this may cause some strange
hesitation too.
Just some ideas
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- -----Ursprüngliche
Nachricht-----
Von: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
An: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet:
Mittwoch, 27. Juni 2001 00:24
Betreff: Team3S: Hesitation
Problem
> I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with Stillen Intake, Borla
Exhaust, UDP, Custom
> down pipe, No cats, stock plugs (NGK) and Magnacore
10mm wires. My
question
> is: when I go to WOT around 2700-4000rpms
(boost spike) the car starts to
> hesitate. I can hear it missing. I've
replaced the plugs, gapped them down
> to .032, and have the magnacore
wires so I don't think it's an ignition
> problem. I'm running a little
above stock boost @ 13psi due to the down
pipe
> etc. after 4000rpms if
I go WOT it's fine. Another strange thing is the
> warmer out it is the
better it runs ( not as likely to hesitate)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 27 Jun 2001 19:49:17
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Head installation question
I placed my heads back on my TT block
today to test the fit and I was woundering if I should leave them on and then
install the camshafts... Or if I should remove the heads install the camshafts
and re-install the heads.
I am extremely worried about banging a valve
against a piston and ruining my hard work.
Anyone want to share their
head installation experiences.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 27 Jun 2001 19:49:17
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Head installation question
I placed my heads back on my TT block
today to test the fit and I was woundering if I should leave them on and then
install the camshafts... Or if I should remove the heads install the camshafts
and re-install the heads.
I am extremely worried about banging a valve
against a piston and ruining my hard work.
Anyone want to share their
head installation experiences.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 23:13:28
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Head installation question
I don't know which one is easier
or better, but when I put my heads on, I
installed the camshafts while the
heads were off. I had no problems
installing the head afterwards. If
you're worried about the valves hitting
the piston when you install the
heads, turn the crankshaft sprocket so that
it's 3 teeth off the timing
mark. However you probably won't have a problem
with the valves
since bolting down the bearing caps will probably cause
some of the lifters
to collapse and not open any of the valves.
Michael Bulaon
>I
placed my heads back on my TT block today to test the fit and I
was
woundering if I should leave them on and then install >the
camshafts... Or
if I should remove the heads install the camshafts and
re-install the heads.
>I am extremely worried about banging a valve
against a piston and ruining
my hard work.
>Anyone want to share their
head installation experiences.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:32:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Head installation question
If you follow the manual..you wont
have any problems.
On 27 Jun 2001, John Monnin wrote:
> I
placed my heads back on my TT block today to test the fit and I was woundering
if I should leave them on and then install the camshafts... Or if I should
remove the heads install the camshafts and re-install the heads.
>
> I am extremely worried about banging a valve against a piston and
ruining my hard work.
>
> Anyone want to share their head
installation experiences.
>
> John Monnin
>
jkmonnin@altavista.com-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:38:46
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 245/45ZR/17 tires at
www.treadepot.com for $99.00
Just saw
these tires at the following website. The price seems pretty good
so I
thought I would pass this on to the members.
www.treadepot.comTOYO PROXES FZ4
245/45ZR17 PROXES FZ4Sale $99.00
I have no idea on the performance of
these tires.
Rgds
Moe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:29:15
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 245/45ZR/17 tires at
www.treadepot.com for $99.00
>
Just saw these tires at the following website. The price
> seems
pretty good
> so I thought I would pass this on to the members.
>
>
www.treadepot.com>
> TOYO PROXES FZ4 245/45ZR17 PROXES FZ4Sale $99.00
Thanks for the
lead, Moe - that's a good price. These are probably good
"mileage"
tires as they're pretty hard, but I'm a little disappointed in
their
performance. I have them on my VR-4 in the 18" flavor, and while I
like
the "wear like iron" properties, I miss the softer, stickier tires I
had on
my base model. I'll keep them on the 18" rims and use them for
normal
driving/trips, but I'll definitely be getting something else for
fun/track
driving.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 32,000 mi
FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust,
PRofecA @0.7/0.9, HKS SSBOV,
HKS TTimer, GReddy Boost Gauge,
Syntec 5W50,
BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1 (R
Diff),
Toyo Proxes FZ4 245/45/ZR18 on stock (18x8.5")
wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 76,000mi
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html
********************* For Sale ************************
'95 Glacier White
Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5MT) 78,XXX
mi
Magnacor KV85, Mobil1, K&N FIPK, Firehawk SZ50
225/55/ZR16
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTSale/3000GTSale.html
*******************************************************
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:51:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SS braided clutch line
Who would be interested in a SS line to
replace the rubber one?
Would $40-50 be too much for it?
The
connectors not the line length..are most of the cost, and a single
brake line
costs about $18-25/ea (depending if its one piece, or two
per
corner..etc)
Just floating this out there so see if its worthwhile
for me to build them
for the group.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:45:29
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Final Call- Racing@ Thunderhill 6/30-7/1. We have NASA "Team"
status!!!
This is "last call" for the NASA Pro Racing HPDE (High
Performance Driving
Event) this weekend. There are 4 run groups,
starting with an instructor,
then solo-ing, then competitive racing - all at
your pace. We have 13
"definites" and 7 or 8 more "possibles" who will
be joining us. Come to
watch or race - it's gonna be great fun!.
We'll be BBQ-ing all weekend,
"camping" around Jeff's humongous racing
trailer (Jeff's going for his
competition license this weekend!) and we'll
have all the toys - generator,
video cameras, chairs under 2- 18-foot awnings
on the trailer. Bring your
own food, lots of water/gartorade, or
whatever, chairs...
Even if you haven't applied yet, there is still room
to sign up at the last
minute - even at the track. All you need to race
are: a current license,
car in good working order (no leaks,
functioning seat belt), long-sleeve
*cotton* shirt & long pants (jeans
are perfect), and a SnellM90 rated helmet
(many are available to borrow at
the track). You'll want to have driving
gloves and shoes for comfort,
but not required. You can bring any car you
want, but as you can see
from our list below, most of us in our group are
driving 3000GT and
Stealth.
***This is an important event for us, since "principals" of
three or four
"3S" groups will be represented, and we'll be meeting with the
head of NASA
Pro Racing to discuss Team3S and AWD-only races all over the
country. I met
with the head of NASA last week. WE ARE NOW A
NASA-RECOGNIZED GROUP!!! We
have "Team" or "Club" status with NASA, and
"special considerations" will
apply! That means parade laps, special
races, and all that goes with it.
The more of us that can show up this
weekend, the stronger our position will
be. So even if you don't want
to race, come and hang out with us!***
Since this is not of interest to
all Team3S members, we will be setting up a
separate website with information
and events, but we will post info to the
list from time to time. Jeff
has already set up a separate "3SRacers" list,
and for all of you who are
interested, contact Jeff for details. I have
accepted the title of
Director of Marketing for NASA, to try and promote
events between us and
other groups, like Vette Club, BMWCCA, PACA, etc.
(No, I won't be making any
money off you guys when you go racing!) But I
will be increasingly more
involved with it, and in a position to make "our"
voices heard in racing
circles. My intention is to coordinate with other 3S
racing
'afficionados' in various areas of the country to setup
Team3S
"invitationals" and "challenge" races everywhere. OK, enough
bandwidth -
details will be through Jeff or me *privately* and on the
3SRacers list.
All info is below.
Best,
Forrest
-
------------------------------
Here's the latest participants
list.
I've indicated which day(s) you will be there, and separated folks
who will
be travelling together. I have only included the people
who are *definite*
one way or another, not "maybes" (which there are
*many*). Please add or
correct any info that you have to the
following...
Bill Ashurst
ashurst1@mac.com Sunday only
'93
Stealth TT Pearl Grey
Mike Baldwin
mbaldwin@alumni.tufts.edu Sat
& Sunday
'94 3000GT VR-4
Jim Berry
fastmax@home.com Sat &
Sunday
'93 Stealth TT "Arrest Me" Red
Jim Elferdink
macintosh@sunra.com Sat &
Sunday
'94 3000GT VR-4
Bob Forrest
bf@bobforrest.com Sat &
Sunday
Eileen Thomas ("ET")
et@bobforrest.com Sat &
Sunday
'94 Stealth NT "Gimme A Ticket" Red
Ann Koch
akoch@sonic.net Sat & Sunday
'93
Stealth TT Blue
Jeff Mohler
Jeff.Mohler@netapp.com Sat &
Sunday
'01 Toyota MR2 Silver
Nissa Mohler
Aniss.Mohler@netapp.com Sat
& Sunday
'97 RX7 Turbo Jet Green
Rob Erbes Sat &
Sunday
'89? Supra TT Black
A J Patell
systemnine@earthlink.net
Saturday only
'99 3000GT VR-4 Black
Jim Watkins
jwatkins@terayon.com Sunday
only
'96 3000GT VR-4 Spyder White
Andy Wohl
awoll1@pacbell.net ?
awoll@aol.com ? Sunday only
'93 Stealth TT
Firestorm Red
Steve Clark NO
Dan Jett
NO
Cyrus Nassiri NO
Steve Saeedi NO
-
------------------------------------
Hey, Race Fans,
Jeff has already
mentioned it in another Team3S post, but a bunch of us are
going up to Race
at Thunderhill (2 hrs above Sacramento) on June 30th and
July 1st.
Eileen and I will be in the Novice classes, while Jeff and Nissa
(and some of
their Speedtoys buddies) will be in the more advanced, and
'competition'
classes. If you want to hone your driving skills, see how
well your car
performs, or even just watch the rest of us, this is going to
be a fun event,
with both instruction and racing. We just did Laguna Seca
this past
weekend and it was outrageous!
Anyone who wants to join us should
download an entry form (see below) and
submit it by June 12th. If you
need details, most of it is on the websites
below, but for other questions or
comments, *please* email Jeff or me
*privately*, OFF the list. We're
getting pretty excitied, and having an
excuse to do a few more mods to our
Stealth is an added perk... Let us know
if you can make it - it's gonna
be great! This is not limited to Stealths
or 3000GTs or Team3S members,
so if you want to bring friends with other
cars, let them
know about it
ASAP. We'll be booking rooms at:
Golden Pheasant Inn in Willows,
CA.
Details...
June 30-July 1 ThunderHill (Racers, HPDE, Plus 3 hr
Enduro)
$149 1 day | $279 2 days | $350 Enduro
What is HPDE?
http://veloce.nasaproracing.com/typ_html_nav.asp?ObjectID=6098Download
forms:
http://veloce.nasaproracing.com/typ_category.asp?Unique=37040.8641550926&ObjectID=6003
We're
planning to do both days in HPDE (High Performance Driving Events), as
are
Jeff & Nissa, plus Jeff is running on Sunday to get some time in
to
qualify for his competition license. You don't have to race if your
car
isn't up to it, but come to the track anyway just to hang out with
us.
See you there!
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:03:15
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
recognize this car?
you too can be fast and furious.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592611581-
-Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart_kurek@eli.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#533
*********************