Team3S
Wednesday, June 27
2001 Volume 01
: Number
532
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jun 2001 17:16:53 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Ralli Art Graphics
All,
Does anyone know were I might find
any Ralli Art graphics. My motorcycle
attacked my car last summer
inflicting a couple nickle size dings. I sold
the bike shortly
thereafter. I figure it's an excuse to put some color on
my car.
Otherwise the body shop want's to shoot the whole side of the car
in order to
guarantee color match. I'm going to hold off on
that.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 17:42:38
-0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: resonator
I am looking at taking off my resonator to my 96'
stealth, and I was also
looking at getting a
K & N FIPK. I was
just wondering if these two things are compatible. I
have seen pics of
cars that have a FIPK, but it looks like it replaces the
entire intake.
Is it pointless to take off the resonator if the FIPK
replaces the whole
thing??
Thanks,
Brent Hawkinson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:05:13
-0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued! HC reduced
Hi all,
back again
with my emissions problem (or at least my cars emission prob!) I
replcard
plugs and wires and retested it and the Hydrocarbons are down from
about 800
at 2500rpm to 400/ 600 at idle to 400. The guy told me the EGR
valve
isnt working. So what next?
Can I clean the EGR or should I just
replace?
Someone else suggested O2 sensor. where is it located on the
exhaust? and
how do i replace?
thanks
Ian
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 17:45:02
-0700
From: "stealthdevil" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: resonator
Brent,
The K&N FIPK just removes the
factory airbox. The resonator is located on
the intake tube the
connects to the throttle body. I have a K&N Aircharger
on my SL and
have removed the resonator. Removing the resonator creates a
very deep
tone when you hit the powerband. Sounds as loud as those VTEC
Hondas,
only deeper. Don't buy the FIPK. Look for the Aircharger. It
is
originally made for a 95-98 Eclipse, but since we have the same MAS, it
will
fit. I got mine for $99 from Mach-V Motorsports. Little
bigger filter
element but without the recharge kit.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Hawkinson's
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 3:43 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: resonator
I am looking at taking off my resonator to my 96'
stealth, and I was also
looking at getting a
K & N FIPK. I was
just wondering if these two things are compatible. I
have seen pics of
cars that have a FIPK, but it looks like it replaces the
entire intake.
Is it pointless to take off the resonator if the FIPK
replaces the whole
thing??
Thanks,
Brent Hawkinson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 17:48:45
-0700
From: "stealthdevil" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need help!-Ticking noises
Hello all,
A problem as sprung
up on my '92 Stealth. It is annoying, but I'm more
worried about potential
engine damage. The engine makes a ticking noise
that starts at 2000rpm
and continues through until 5500rpm(It might extend
farther, but the engine
drains it out all sound.) I think it might be the
lifters but I'm not
sure. Have any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks
Gabe
'92
Black Stealth TT
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Stillen Downpipe
'93
Pearl White 3000GT SL
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Removed
Resonator
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:38:29
+0200
From: Andrzej Artymowicz <
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
Subject:
Team3S: Pads question
Hi!
I'm planning to upgrade my pads. Should
I use bedding procedures even on
organic
pads?
thanks
andrzej
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:56:21
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: resonator
> I am looking at taking off my resonator to my 96'
stealth, and I was also
looking at getting a K & N FIPK. I was just
wondering if these two things
are compatible. I have seen pics of cars
that have a FIPK, but it looks
like it replaces the entire intake. Is
it pointless to take off the
resonator if the FIPK replaces the whole
thing??
>
Thanks,
>
Brent Hawkinson
- --------------------------
Compatible, and
recommended. Look at our FAQ pages, and you will find pages
on both
items-- Aftermarket air filters are in the "Maintenance" section,
and the
Resonator is under "Modifications" and includes a diagram.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 17:21:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pads question
Why are you upgrading to organic pads?
I
can get you a nice set of carbon-kevlar pads..
On Tue, 26 Jun 2001,
Andrzej Artymowicz wrote:
>
> Hi!
>
> I'm planning
to upgrade my pads. Should I use bedding procedures even on
> organic
pads?
>
> thanks
>
> andrzej
>
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 18:24:47
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hesitation Problem
I have a 1995 Vr-4 Spyder with Stillen Intake,
Borla Exhaust, UDP, Custom
down pipe, No cats, stock plugs (NGK) and
Magnacore 10mm wires. My question
is: when I go to WOT around 2700-4000rpms
(boost spike) the car starts to
hesitate. I can hear it missing. I've
replaced the plugs, gapped them down
to .032, and have the magnacore wires so
I don't think it's an ignition
problem. I'm running a little above stock
boost @ 13psi due to the down pipe
etc. after 4000rpms if I go WOT it's fine.
Another strange thing is the
warmer out it is the better it runs ( not as
likely to hesitate) Any help
would be great.
Curtis Mc
Connell
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:15:02
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Problem with coolant.
I had the exact same problem with my coolant
reservoir. It would just empty
itself while driving (not while sitting
in the garage). Every morning for 1
week I had a low coolant light and
an almost empty overfill container. I
would refill the container, and
when I would get to my destinnation I would
check under the hood.
However, when the engine was hot, I would see a full
container. I
believe it was emptying while driving because I smelled a bit
of coolant and
it got a bit dirty with green coolant in the transmission
area. So, I
took it to the Mitsu dealer and he replaced the overfill
container and that
solved the problem. He said it was cracked. Cost was
$102, but if
that's your problem, you need MB605465 (2nd gen tank assy) for
$26.54 (you
can get it cheaper with discounts). By the way, I thought it
was
comming out of the reservoir hose too.
Good luck.
- -MIKE-
95
Red VR4
Michigan
- -------------------
Original Message
below
>Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:02:03 -0400
>From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>Subject:
Team3S: Problem with coolant.
>This question is in regards to my 95
VR-4 after >recently changing the
>coolant.
>I seem to be
losing coolant from the coolant >resevoir.
>The coolant is coming
out of the hose that is open on >the other end, not
the
>one that
goes to the radiator cap....
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:40:18
EDT
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Opinions on repair
I have a 1992 Dodge Stealth ES. It's
been having some problems lately, but now I think that it's time to start
spending some cash. The front left ball joint is going, so I'll need a new
control arm. There is also a crack in that part of the exhaust with the
flex joint, I have a HUGE power loss. I don't know what the part is called
so I can't check for prices. Should I order it from Mitsu or are there
some good aftermarket parts for it? Also what do you think about going
through a used place like M&S Recycling for the parts? Or should I
stick to new? Also is there a way to check whether or not my timing belt
has been replaced? I was told that it had the 60k tune up, but I have been
finding reasons to think that it wasn't (I had to replace the AC belt).
One final thing to bother you with. I have this ticking when I start my
car and am at lower RPMs and my friends 94 3000 does too, is this a trait of the
car?
Thanks for any help,
Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:54:14
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
I'll put in a plug for
http://www.tirerack.com I've had good
service from
them. I did a quick search for a 92 RT/TT, and they found
4 matches. Three
of these were 18" wheels. Here's the link to
that particular page, hope it
helps.
http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/WheelSearch.jsp?autoMake=Dodge&autoModel=Stealth+R%2FT+Turbo&autoYear=1992
Dennis
Moore
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg
Gonzales <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To:
<
stealth@starnet.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 26, 2001 8:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth
TT
> Does anyone have a list of after market rims that will our
cars? TT's and
> VR4's?
>
> If not, whom among us has
aftermarket rims?
>
> Id like to get a list compiled to see what my
options are.
>
> I am looking to stay with 17" but if the 18" look
cool I can be persuaded.
>
> Thanks
> Greg G
> 92 RT
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:07:41
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Opinions on repair
> There is also a crack in that part of the
exhaust with the flex joint....
> I don't know what the part is
called so I can't check for prices.
I've got that too on my
92RT/TT. I can get you the part number and price
with discount as soon
as Norco Mitsu gets back to me.
> Should I order it from Mitsu or are
there some good aftermarket parts for
it?
As far as I have found,
not one makes it other than Mitsu since there is not
a large demand for
it.
> what do you think about going through a used place like
M&S Recycling
> for the parts? Or should I stick to new?
M&S is great, but you should probably just get a new one. I was
told they
usually run around $150-$200 which seems a little steep, but it's
better than
buying a used one and having it crack the same way the first one
did.
> I have this ticking when I start my car and am at lower RPMs
and my
> friends 94 3000 does too, is this a trait of the car?
Sure
is, it's most probably the lifters Almost everyone's got it. The
only
way to get rid of it according to the people I've spoken to on the list
is to
replace them with the upgraded newer style lifters and INSTALL THEM
PROPERLY!! It won't fix the problem if you install it wrong.
I've also been
told by a mechanic that works on many japanese cars that if
you retorque the
lifters and make sure they are all the same and clean as
well as always have
proper oil levels, it should be fixed. I'm yet to
try it, but I will very
soon.
Good luck!
- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992
Pearl White RT/NA - For Sale...
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
Porterfield
Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
Greddy
Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 18:25:02
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
> I'll put in a plug for
http://www.tirerack.com I've had good
service from
them. I did a quick search for a 92 RT/TT, and they found
4 matches. Three
of these were 18" wheels. Here's the link to
that particular page, hope it
helps.
http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/WheelSearch.jsp?autoMake=Dodge&autoMo>
del=Stealth+R%2FT+Turbo&autoYear=1992
> Dennis Moore 93 Stealth
ES
- -----------------------------
Trouble with websites is that there
are always more possibilities than those
listed. For example, Chuck
Willis pointed out that Yoko AVS Intermediates
do NOT come in Z-rated
255/35ZR18, and that was verified on the TireRack &
Yoko
websites(!). Trouble is, my car doesn't know that, since that's what
I
have! I think that coming up with our own list is going to be as
complete
as anything out there, and while we're at it, we might want to list
the
tires we're using, too:
Gewalt Type-S (silver finish) 18" rims,
Yoko AVS Intermediate 255/35ZR18
(neither are listed at TireRack)! Here
are mine:
www.Team3S.com/Images/Stealth-Gewalt.JPGHere
are 2 more places to look for wheels:
http://64.38.194.78 (Dazz Motorsports)
&
www.carsmetics.comWhen you
guys get a good array of wheels, let me know and I'll set up a page
on the
Team3S website. We already have a page for the stock wheels,
BTW...,
courtesy of Curt Gendron.
www.Team3S.com/FAQwheels.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:28:45
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV options
I have an HKS ssbov and it did interfere with the
linkage. I cut 1" off the
rubber hose and tie wrapped it to the hard
line that runs under there and it
works great. Cutting off a little
forces it to stay up higher when attached
to the mounting flange as per
instructions. I do not know the greddy
set-up, but if its similar it
will work
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff VanOrsdal
<
jeffv@1nce.com>
To: Team3s Tech
List <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:36 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV
options
>You can use the 1g DSM blow-off so long as you have the
adapter for a 2G
>DSM. I know several guys who are running them and
I'll be buying one
myself
>as soon as my local shop gets some more
adapters.
>
>http://www.buschurracing.com/buschur/BRwebsite.nsf/PartsCatalog/A18B23266A1
0
>FC77052568DF00149358?OpenDocument
>
>Jeff
VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of anthonymelillo
>Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 1:59 PM
>To:
3000GT List Submissions
>Subject: Team3S: BOV
options
>
>
>I need some alternatives on a BOV for my 1997
VR-4. I do not like the
>Greddy because it interferes with the shift
linkage, and have been looking
>high and low for a 1st gen BOV and adapter
that I have heard about. But
>nobody seems to carry
it.
>
>A friend told me about a part from buschur racing, but it
seems that I was
>mistaken, and this part is for an eclipse, not the
VR-4.
>
>So, now I am at the same dilemma. I have a Greddy
that I would like to get
>rid of if I could only find something else to
put in it's place.
>
>Anthony
Melillo
>anthonymelillo@home.com
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:52:54
-0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
Hello, gang:
Last night my 91
Stealth TT's AWD 5-speed tranny started acting up out of
the blue. Now,
it suddenly refuses to go into 2nd and Reverse, and very
reluctantly goes
into 4th (in other words, all the "backwards" positions on
the
shifter). 1st, 3rd and 5th work fine (all "forward" positions
work
great).
I thought sure that this had something to do with the
shifter linkage
cables, but I am now convinced that they are not to
blame. I reached under
the car and easily moved the external shift
linkages through the same gears
by hand as I can with the shift lever.
4th was tough, and the other gear
positions, 2nd and Reverse, just won't
budge!
The clutch works fine, and the gears that *will* engage work just
fine. I
have never had any problems with this tranny until now.
The car has ~85,000
miles on it. The clutch was replaced about 3 years
ago at ~55,000.
Does anyone have any ideas? I've never heard of
shifting problems like this
before, and couldn't find reference to any in the
archives. BTW, I don't
know what the fluid level is, but the outside of
the transfer case is
showing signs of slow leaking. That's the first
thing I will check once
it's light out again, but in the meantime, can anyone
think of anything else
that might be wrong?
Roger Roskam
91 Indy
Stealth TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 19:37:23
-0700
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch
Greetings all,
Looks like I may be in the market
for a new clutch... I have been doing some
research (via Jeff's Page)and
haven't found much to jump up and down about
price wise that is... Looks like
Centerforce would be great but at the $625
that my mitsu mechanic quoted me
it would hurt... (no new exhaust for me!!!)
Anyway if anybody has any
suggestions, recommendations, or amazing prices, I
would appreciate the
response.
Justin
92 Emerald Stealth R/T TT
New Front Struts, New
Front Axles, Rebuilt Transmission, Redline 10w30 in
the engine, WaterWetter
in the radiator, Chrome Oil Cap, Racing Shift Knob.
Waiting to install
440cc injectors, Aircharger, Autometer Boost Gauge, and
Centerforce Throwout
bearing.
And a Bell Sport II in the ready!
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:58:54
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Clutch question, while we're in that subject.
Hello
everyone,
my clutch finally gave up on me, and now i am wondering
what difference will
it make if i replace it with a mitsu clutch, or get
whatever is out there
for our cars, i have an SL, so the question is, will
the clutch make a big
difference when i only have 220 HP?? Please let me
know what your
thoughts are. Thanks in advance. Christian.
92
SL
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:39:00
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Leak from oil cap
Does anyone else have a leaky oil cap?
The one on my 1995 VR-4 is the
original I believe and I have taken it
apart. I heard the gasket needs
replaced since it is worn. It
appears that oil leaks through the screw in
the center though and not around
the gasket. I guess there is a gasket
under the screw head or
something? I tried tightening the cap by holding
the back with a socket
and using a screwdriver on the front. It was already
fairly tight but
I'll try this for a few days to see if there is any
improvement.
I
noticed it most after a driving event where I was in 3rd gear for most of
the
course at Watkins Glen for the 20-minute session. This meant
speeds
between 60-110 mph in third and shifts into fourth on the two
straights.
This made for some high revs and high oil pressures. When I
returned to the
pits I noticed the underside of the hood was splattered with
oil that was
also splattered back to the firewall. This was because the
oil that leaked
from under the cap got spit all about the place by the fans
and air flowing
through the engine compartment.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com1995
VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:45:25
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Leak from oil cap
I had a smaller version of your problem at Willow
Springs and solved it
by bending the two tabs down a little to provide more
clamping force when
closed --- I should replace the
gasket.
Jim
berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: Team3S
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 26, 2001 8:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: Leak from oil
cap
> Does anyone else have a leaky oil cap? The one on my
1995 VR-4 is the
> original I believe and I have taken it apart. I
heard the gasket needs
> replaced since it is worn. It appears that
oil leaks through the screw in
> the center though and not around the
gasket. I guess there is a gasket
> under the screw head or
something? I tried tightening the cap by holding
> the back with a
socket and using a screwdriver on the front. It was already
> fairly
tight but I'll try this for a few days to see if there is any
>
improvement.
>
> I noticed it most after a driving event where I
was in 3rd gear for most of
> the course at Watkins Glen for the 20-minute
session. This meant speeds
> between 60-110 mph in third and shifts
into fourth on the two straights.
> This made for some high revs and high
oil pressures. When I returned to the
> pits I noticed the underside
of the hood was splattered with oil that was
> also splattered back to the
firewall. This was because the oil that leaked
> from under the cap
got spit all about the place by the fans and air flowing
> through the
engine compartment.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@pobox.com> 1995
VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:57:44
-0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
> Last night my 91 Stealth TT's AWD
5-speed tranny started acting up out of
> the blue. Now, it suddenly
refuses to go into 2nd and Reverse, and very
> reluctantly goes into 4th
(in other words, all the "backwards" positions
on
> the shifter).
1st, 3rd and 5th work fine (all "forward" positions work
>
great).
>
> I thought sure that this had something to do with the
shifter linkage
> cables, but I am now convinced that they are not to
blame. <snip>
>>> Your synchos are probably
worm out. <snip>
Noble:
I thought about that, but I
don't think my problem is warn out synchros -
here's
why:
1. I can't get the shift lever to move into these
gear positions (2, 4,
Reverse) even while the car is sitting
still.
2. Reverse doesn't have a synchro, does
it?
3. Wouldn't synchros give some kind of warning before
wearing out so bad
that they wouldn't allow me to even select a gear? I
thought synchros
helped to smooth gear shifts by matching the speeds of the
gears while
shifting from one to the next. If synchros are bad or worn
out, or if you
shift too fast, then you get a "crunch" from
selecting/engaging gears that
aren't running at the same speed as your input
shaft. I don't think a
synchro would work for reverse, since you can't
ever match the speed of a
gear going in the opposite direction.
I am
no expert on trans problems, but this is what I've learned from
my
research. If synchros are my problem, of course, I will be on the
phone to
Kormex. =) But I think the problem might have more to do
with the internal
shifting mechanisms - forks, rails and such. That's
my guess.
Anybody else had similar problems?
Roger Roskam
91
Indy Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:30:02
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch question, while we're in that subject.
- ----- Original
Message ----- From: <
Sportsmobile101@aol.com>
>
Hello
everyone,
>
my clutch finally gave up on me, and now i am
wondering what difference will
it make if i replace it with a mitsu clutch,
or get whatever is out there for
our cars, i have an SL, so the question is,
will the clutch make a big
difference when i only have 220 HP?? Please let
me know what your
thoughts are. Thanks in advance. Christian. 92 SL
-
----------------------------
Our stock clutches are excellent, but if you
like a slightly quicker grip, I
highly recommend the RPS Carbon Claw.
RPS has a bit of a bad rap lately for
their Turbo Carbon clutches for the
TT/VR4 (much of which is deserved,
unfortunately), but this product for the
non-turbos is really fine. It
grips positively and fast, but you can
still slip it, and it isn't a horror
in stop-and-go traffic like many others
(especially Centerforce). But I
would be almost as happy with the stock
clutch, since we NT owners don't
have a ton of HP to stress it with.
Either-or...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:33:15
-0500
From: "Turbo Driven" <
turbodrvn@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
I don't think it's the syncros
either. I highly recommend you double check
your shifter linkage
control area (located under the blow off valve). I had
a similar
problem about 2 years ago with a fresh/new tranny and found that
there is a
pin within the shifter linkage control area that was pushed out
of place and
prevented me from shifting into 2nd gear. Your situation may
be
similar.
Best of luck to you!
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - heavily
modded.
>From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
>To:
"Team 3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>, "noble"
<
nketo@sympatico.ca>
>Subject: Re:
Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
>Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:57:44
-0400
>
> > Last night my 91 Stealth TT's AWD 5-speed tranny
started acting up out
>of
> > the blue. Now, it suddenly
refuses to go into 2nd and Reverse, and very
> > reluctantly goes into
4th (in other words, all the "backwards" positions
>on
> > the
shifter). 1st, 3rd and 5th work fine (all "forward" positions work
>
> great).
> >
> > I thought sure that this had something to
do with the shifter linkage
> > cables, but I am now convinced that
they are not to blame. <snip>
>
> >>> Your
synchos are probably worm out.
<snip>
>
>Noble:
>
>I thought about that, but I
don't think my problem is warn out synchros -
>here's
why:
>
>1. I can't get the shift lever to move
into these gear positions (2, 4,
>Reverse) even while the car is sitting
still.
>2. Reverse doesn't have a synchro, does
it?
>3. Wouldn't synchros give some kind of warning
before wearing out so bad
>that they wouldn't allow me to even select a
gear? I thought synchros
>helped to smooth gear shifts by matching
the speeds of the gears while
>shifting from one to the next. If
synchros are bad or worn out, or if you
>shift too fast, then you get a
"crunch" from selecting/engaging gears that
>aren't running at the same
speed as your input shaft. I don't think a
>synchro would work for
reverse, since you can't ever match the speed of a
>gear going in the
opposite direction.
>
>I am no expert on trans problems, but this is
what I've learned from my
>research. If synchros are my problem, of
course, I will be on the phone to
>Kormex. =) But I think the
problem might have more to do with the
>internal
>shifting
mechanisms - forks, rails and such. That's my
guess.
>
>Anybody else had similar problems?
>
>Roger
Roskam
>91 Indy Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:23:29
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pads question
>I'm planning to upgrade my pads. Should I
use bedding procedures even on
>organic pads?
>
When you buy a
set of upgraded pads, they will come with an instruction
sheet that tells you
how to bed them in. They are all different. Just do
what the mfg
suggests.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:45:09
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leak from oil cap
>I noticed it most after a driving event
where I was in 3rd gear for most of
>the course at Watkins Glen for the
20-minute session. When I returned to the
>pits I noticed the
underside of the hood was splattered with oil that was
>also splattered
back to the firewall. This was because the oil that leaked
>from
under the cap got spit all about the place by the fans and air
flowing
>through the engine compartment.
Me too. Sigh. Welcome to
the world of VR4 racing.
Wait'll your Getrag decides to start belching fluid
through its breather.
That's a mess too.
Only happens on the track.
Rich>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:20:40
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
>If not, whom among us has
aftermarket rims?
I have 17 in. Milli Miglias. Got 'em from Tire Rack,
but TR does not carry
them anymore.
You can see them at
www.bazillionbooks.com, scroll down to
Race Photos, and
click on either link.
Rich/old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 00:56:44
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Thanx for the response to my Clutch question.
I guess i will go with the mitsu clutch, it worked good for me, plus all
the
good things i've heard from the list, it seems like is the sure way to
go.
Truly,
Christian.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:16:12
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Raise You Hood - Cool Cooling Mod
> Thanks, Cyrus! I did
the modification yesterday and while I do not have
any
>
instrumentation to test the temps, I just want to report that today,
I
drove
> in the moderate rain we had from San Francisco to Sunnyvale
(55 miles). It
> was raining all the way and had my wipers on constantly.
Ran as high as
100
> mph (indicated) and was generally running over 70
to 80 mph.
>
> As soon as I got home, I checked under the hood but
was suprised to find
> everything dry! I guess the heat of the engine
evaporated the water!
>
> I have a 1 1/2 inch gap but I have not
removed the rubber seal yet.
>
> Thanks for the info. It was easy (I
was all alone) but I had to unbolt all
4
> bolts as I could not align
any bolt when the original bolts are still
> attached even if they were
very loose. Took me about 40 minutes with all
the
> trial and error.
Got the bolts from Orchard Supply and they are metric M8
x
> 65 (the
length of the bolt and you can get various lengths) and the pitch
is
>
1.25.
>
> Edgar
> '91 VR-4 Pearl White stock
unmodified
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
<
NassiriC@aol.com>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 10:19 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Raise You Hood -
Cool Cooling Mod
>
>
> > Hood Raising Details
>
>
> > On my last post about "low speed knock" I mentioned raising
the rear of
my
> > hood for better cooling, I got a lot of requests
for more details, so I
> > figured it was worth the bandwidth to send
it to the entire group.
> >
> > I read an article in Car Craft
(July 2001, "Mustang Cold-Air Induction"
p.
> > 66). In the
article they put a "cowl" hood on a Mustang set up for drag
> >
racing. They got good reductions in under hood temps (almost
to
ambient),
> > which lead to reduced 1/4 mile times - dropped from
13.02/104 to
> 12.67/108.
> > I figured our under hood temps
where much higher then the Mustang, so a
> > similar modification would
help us even more, plus I was tired of
opening
> the
> > hood
and getting my eyebrows singed off.
> >
> > To duplicate a
"cowl" hood, I moved the rear of my stock hood up about
> 2.25
>
> inches and removed the rubber gasket between the body of the car
>
(firewall)
> > and the hood. This gave me a total gap of about
2.5 inches between the
> hood
> > and where it used to seal with
the body of the car.
> >
> > This mod is VERY simple, totally
reversible, basically free, and
probably
> > worth a few extra HP
for both the drag racer and the road racer. Once
you
> > get
the basic setup, you can switch between the stock and modified
>
position
> > in about 15 minutes total. For those of you trying
to fit a strut brace
> > under the hood, this mod will provide the
extra clearance you need,
> however,
> > switching back to the
stock position would require removal of the strut
> bar.
>
>
> > Simply unbolt the 4 bolts (two each side) that bolt the hood
to the
> hinges,
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 13:20:35
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
Try this -
Grab your shift boot and
rip it up out of that hole. Try shifting into those
gears while
watching this area, because something may have gotten lodged down in
there
too. Best of luck!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T
TT
Turbo Driven wrote:
> I don't think it's the syncros
either. I highly recommend you double check
> your shifter linkage
control area (located under the blow off valve). I had
> a similar
problem about 2 years ago with a fresh/new tranny and found that
> there
is a pin within the shifter linkage control area that was pushed out
> of
place and prevented me from shifting into 2nd gear. Your situation
may
> be similar.
>
> Best of luck to you!
>
>
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - heavily modded.
>
> >From: "Roger J.
Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
>
>To: "Team 3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>, "noble"
<
nketo@sympatico.ca>
>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
> >Date: Tue, 26 Jun
2001 23:57:44 -0400
> >
> > > Last night my 91 Stealth TT's
AWD 5-speed tranny started acting up out
> >of
> > > the
blue. Now, it suddenly refuses to go into 2nd and Reverse, and
very
> > > reluctantly goes into 4th (in other words, all the
"backwards" positions
> >on
> > > the shifter). 1st,
3rd and 5th work fine (all "forward" positions work
> > >
great).
> > >
> > > I thought sure that this had
something to do with the shifter linkage
> > > cables, but I am now
convinced that they are not to blame. <snip>
> >
>
>
> >
> > >>> Your synchos are probably worm
out. <snip>
> >
> >Noble:
> >
>
>I thought about that, but I don't think my problem is warn out synchros
-
> >here's why:
> >
> >1. I can't
get the shift lever to move into these gear positions (2, 4,
>
>Reverse) even while the car is sitting still.
>
>2. Reverse doesn't have a synchro, does it?
>
>3. Wouldn't synchros give some kind of warning before
wearing out so bad
> >that they wouldn't allow me to even select a
gear? I thought synchros
> >helped to smooth gear shifts by
matching the speeds of the gears while
> >shifting from one to the
next. If synchros are bad or worn out, or if you
> >shift too
fast, then you get a "crunch" from selecting/engaging gears that
>
>aren't running at the same speed as your input shaft. I don't think
a
> >synchro would work for reverse, since you can't ever match the
speed of a
> >gear going in the opposite direction.
>
>
> >I am no expert on trans problems, but this is what I've learned
from my
> >research. If synchros are my problem, of course, I
will be on the phone to
> >Kormex. =) But I think the
problem might have more to do with the
> >internal
> >shifting
mechanisms - forks, rails and such. That's my guess.
> >
>
>Anybody else had similar problems?
> >
> >Roger
Roskam
> >91 Indy Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 11:44:43
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
I was thinking along the same lines - that
something on the EXternal linkage
has shifted, loosened, become blocked,
etc. My gut says that this isn't an
horrible internal
problem...
Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken
Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> Try this
-
> Grab your shift boot and rip it up out of that hole. Try
shifting into
those
> gears while watching this area, because something
may have gotten lodged
down in
> there too. Best of luck!
>
Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White R/T TT
> > >I am no expert
on trans problems, but this is what I've learned from my
> >
>research. If synchros are my problem, of course, I will be on
the
phone to
> > >Kormex. =) But I think the problem
might have more to do with the
> > >internal
> >
>shifting mechanisms - forks, rails and such. That's my guess.
>
> >Anybody else had similar problems?
> > >Roger
Roskam
> > >91 Indy Stealth TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 13:00:30
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trans/Shifter trouble
+> > Last night my 91 Stealth
TT's AWD 5-speed tranny started acting up out of
+> > the blue.
Now, it suddenly refuses to go into 2nd and Reverse, and very
+> >
reluctantly goes into 4th (in other words, all the "backwards"
positions
+> on
+> > the shifter). 1st, 3rd and 5th work
fine (all "forward" positions work
+> > great).
+> >
+>
> I thought sure that this had something to do with the shifter
linkage
+> > cables, but I am now convinced that they are not to
blame. <snip>
+>
+>
+>
+> >>>
Your synchos are probably worm out. <snip>
+>
+>
Noble:
+>
+> I thought about that, but I don't think my problem is
warn out synchros -
+> here's why:
+>
+> 1.
I can't get the shift lever to move into these gear positions (2, 4,
+>
Reverse) even while the car is sitting still.
+> 2.
Reverse doesn't have a synchro, does it?
+> 3. Wouldn't
synchros give some kind of warning before wearing out so bad
+> that they
wouldn't allow me to even select a gear? I thought synchros
+>
helped to smooth gear shifts by matching the speeds of the gears while
+>
shifting from one to the next. If synchros are bad or worn out, or if
you
+> shift too fast, then you get a "crunch" from selecting/engaging
gears that
+> aren't running at the same speed as your input shaft.
I don't think a
+> synchro would work for reverse, since you can't ever
match the speed of a
+> gear going in the opposite direction.
+>
+> I am no expert on trans problems, but this is what I've learned from
my
+> research. If synchros are my problem, of course, I will be on
the phone to
+> Kormex. =) But I think the problem might have
more to do with the internal
+> shifting mechanisms - forks, rails and
such. That's my guess.
+>
+> Anybody else had similar
problems?
+>
+> Roger Roskam
+> 91 Indy Stealth
TT
Roger,
check the linkage by the air filter. I had a
similar problem and it
was due to the shift linkage weight hitting a hard
vacuum line. It's
easiest to see if you have someone in the car running
the shifter
through the gears while you watch under the hood. Or you
can just
grab the linkage and move it by hand to check for clearance
issues.
in my case, I just had to (carefully!) bend the line a little to
make
room for the shift weight. It'll be pretty obvious if that's
your
problem.
hope it's that simple for
you.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
=
87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:55:09
-0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
wheels w/ locks and no key
I got a problem, I have just discovered that I
have got wheel locks on my
back two wheels and I don't have the key!
Where can I possibly get a key?
I checked the local dealers with no
luck? And if getting a key isn't
possible and if I need to drill/use a
chisel to get them off where can I get
some standard lugs?
Michael
Donnelly
'94 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:55:41
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Fastest time page location?
Who or where is keeping the fastest times
page?
I'm thinking it may have to be updated after the DSM Shootout
:)
Arty 91 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 14:50:00
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Marshalltown pix
I put up four photos from our Marshalltown event
for your edification.
Three are of me running against a brand new Z06
Corvette (the ZOG car), and
one is of my beautiful baby girl in her SVT
Cobra.
If you are interested, go to
www.bazillionbooks.com, scroll down to
Race
Photos, and click on Marshalltown.
I'm not sure how big the photo
files are, so if you have trouble
downloading them, please let me know and
we'll cut the resolution.
I'll be outa town for the next two days for a
biz trip, so I can't respond
to any of your churlish remarks until
Saturday.
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:57:18
-0400
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Centerforce Clutch Question
Has anyone seen (with your eyes) a
Centerforce clutch for the VR-4 or
TT? I just removed my Dual Friction
Centerforce clutch which lasted
only 18000 miles. On the clutch disk,
and pressure plate there is an
"Exedy" stamp. There was no "Centerforce
Weight System" on the pressure
plate fingers. I am beginning to think I
have been screwed. Any help,
answers or especially a picture would be
apreciated. This is why I no
longer take my car to any
dealerships.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware
Development
Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:59:04
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Raise You Hood - Cool Cooling Mod
I'm sorry I'm new here but I'd
like to get more info on this "mod" Can
someone send me the instructions or
direct me to the right place?
Curtis
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:08:52
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fastest time page location?
Hey Arty,
I have it and I
keep it updated. Its located at:
http://www.mn3s.org/fastest3s.htmlJust
send me an e-mail with the proper documentation after the DSM shootout
and
I'll be happy to post it. I'll be looking for the 9.xx @ 140 mph.
:-)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
Aso8@aol.com>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>CC:
Aso8@aol.com>Subject: Team3S: Fastest
time page location?
>Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:55:41
EDT
>
>Who or where is keeping the fastest times page?
>I'm
thinking it may have to be updated after the DSM Shootout :)
>Arty 91
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 13:10:54
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Centerforce Clutch Question
The Centerforce clutch for our
cars doesn't come with the weights on the pressure plate fingers.
The
"dual" in dual-friction means the disc has two types of material.
Was
your plate orange? If so, this was the Centerforce pressure
plate.
Rehards,
Dan Jett
San Jose, Ca
94 Stealth RT/TT (w/
Centerforce Clutch)
>>> Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
06/27 12:57 PM >>>
Has anyone seen (with your eyes) a Centerforce
clutch for the VR-4 or
TT? I just removed my Dual Friction Centerforce
clutch which lasted
only 18000 miles. On the clutch disk, and pressure
plate there is an
"Exedy" stamp. There was no "Centerforce Weight
System" on the pressure
plate fingers. I am beginning to think I have
been screwed. Any help,
answers or especially a picture would be
apreciated. This is why I no
longer take my car to any
dealerships.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 13:16:14
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wheels w/ locks and no key
At 12:55 PM 6/27/01 , Donnelly,
Michael wrote:
>And if getting a key isn't
>possible and if I need
to drill/use a chisel to get them off where can I get
>some standard
lugs?
A good way to remove them is hammer a tight fitting, 12 point
socket over
them. I have about 40 extra lugnuts if you need a couple (few)
just pay the
postage and i'll send you them.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:38:45
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fastest time page location?
Question on the "N/A"
times... Are any of those with Nitrous???
Cause Its my opinion that
they should be listed as with nitrous if they
were. 14.1X just sounds a
little low, especially if listed as N/A, which
technically means - no
nitrous, superchargers, "e-ram", or turbos...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Curt Gendron
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 3:09 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Fastest time page location?
Hey Arty,
I have it
and I keep it updated. Its located at:
http://www.mn3s.org/fastest3s.htmlJust
send me an e-mail with the proper documentation after the DSM shootout
and
I'll be happy to post it. I'll be looking for the 9.xx @ 140 mph.
:-)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
Aso8@aol.com>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>CC:
Aso8@aol.com>Subject: Team3S: Fastest
time page location?
>Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:55:41
EDT
>
>Who or where is keeping the fastest times page?
>I'm
thinking it may have to be updated after the DSM Shootout :)
>Arty 91
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:46:17
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fastest time page location?
http://www.mn3s.org/fastest3s.htmlGood
luck at the shootout.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>Who or where
is keeping the fastest times page?
>I'm thinking it may have to be updated
after the DSM Shootout :)
>Arty 91 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 14:18:32
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Any advice would help....
I have enrolled in an IRDC driving
school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
and 8 hours on the track with an
instructor in the car.
Any advice on prepping my car before the big day
ie...better pads, brake
fluid, what ever ( I am more interested in not
hitting the wall or spinning
into it) would be greatly
appreciated.
Please understand I am not rich so don't tell me to get a nitros
kit or a
big red kit or something of the sort.
S.I.R. here I
come.......
Also any info on a good helmet that's about 250.00 that
doesn't constrict
view.
Bob K.
93' R/T FIPK Magnecore
8.5's
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 14:38:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any advice would help....
$250 for a halmet is a -lot-.
$110 can get a good SnellM helmet.
Get better pads & fluid for
sure..that would get ya thru very comfortably.
Front/Rear R4-S pads, and
four bottles of Motul600 fluid is about $227.47,
and about $271.13
retail.
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Robert Koch wrote:
>
> I
have enrolled in an IRDC driving school. It's a 4 hour class in a room
>
and 8 hours on the track with an instructor in the car.
> Any advice on
prepping my car before the big day ie...better pads, brake
> fluid, what
ever ( I am more interested in not hitting the wall or spinning
> into
it) would be greatly appreciated.
> Please understand I am not rich so
don't tell me to get a nitros kit or a
> big red kit or something of the
sort.
>
> S.I.R. here I come.......
>
> Also any info
on a good helmet that's about 250.00 that doesn't constrict
>
view.
>
> Bob K.
> 93' R/T FIPK Magnecore 8.5's
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S V1
#532
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