Team3S
Tuesday, June 26
2001
Volume 01 : Number
531
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:20:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front strut tower bar - group buy
I would say the brace goes
over the camber plates myself.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, Merritt
wrote:
> Does anyone know if the strut tower bar will clear camber
plates?
>
> Looks like that big fat part of the bar is located
right where the camber
> plates mount.
>
> If I can't move
the top of the strut inward because there's a strut bar
> there blocking
me, then I can't get negative camber.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
w/GC camber plates.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed
you..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:09:44
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front strut tower bar - group buy
I think with a little
ingenuity we could improve this bar (not to discredit
anyone's work) but
make it adjustable to accommodate this problem.
Any thoughts? Or shall I
just shut up and make my sparkplug cover plates?
Bob K.
93' R/T FIPK
8.5's
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 2:54 PM
To:
Floyd, Jim; 'Team 3SI'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front strut tower bar - group
buy
Does anyone know if the strut tower bar will clear camber
plates?
Looks like that big fat part of the bar is located right where
the camber
plates mount.
If I can't move the top of the strut inward
because there's a strut bar
there blocking me, then I can't get negative
camber.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4 w/GC camber plates.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:25:59
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front strut tower bar - group buy
Rich/old poop,
If it
doesn't fit you can return it.
Jim
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday,
June 25, 2001 3:54 PM
To: Floyd, Jim; 'Team 3SI'
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front strut tower bar - group buy
Does anyone know if the strut tower
bar will clear camber plates?
Looks like that big fat part of the bar is
located right where the camber
plates mount.
If I can't move the top
of the strut inward because there's a strut bar
there blocking me, then I
can't get negative camber.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4 w/GC camber
plates.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:51:54
-0400
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
parts for sale
Hello everyone,
I have some parts for sale if
anyone is interested:
2 turbos in a TD04 housing. I bought these
from Brian at GTAlley before
they became GTPro. He told me that they
flowed equivalent to a 15G. I
believe the bearings are gone on the
front turbocharger. The rear is in
good shape. They would make a
good rebuild project. I'm asking 175
dollars + shipping.
Also, I
have a brand new HKS Super AFR. It was literally used for less
than a
day due to the fact that I decided to go with the APEXI Super
AFC. I
like the style better. I will let it go for 275 dollars
+
shipping. Retails for 399 dollars.
To add to the list, I have
a water pump with approximately 40K miles on
it, still in very good
condition. I will let it go for 40 dollars +
shipping.
Finally,
I have some very beat up stock intercoolers which if anyone is
interested in
them, I would be happy to give away (provided you pay
the
shipping).
Please e-mail me privately at
smii@mediaone.net if you are interested
in
any of these items or if you have any questions about any of the
items.
Thank you,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:26:43
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front strut tower bar v. camber plates
At 03:09 PM 6/25/01
-0700, Robert Koch wrote:
>I think with a little ingenuity we could
improve this bar (not to discredit
>anyone's work) but make it adjustable
to accommodate this problem.
>
I have been out there in my garage
peering at my camber plates, comparing
them to the strut bar photos, and
trying to figure out how to make
everything fit. I would really like to
buy that strut bar, but it looks
like it would take an awful lot of drilling
and cutting to make the bar fit
over and around the mounting bolts for the
camber plates. All that cutting
could weaken the bar.
Go to
www.ground-control.com, go to the
application guide for camber
plates, and look in the lower right hand corner
for the photo. As you'll
see, the plates have four mounting bolts, and at
least one Allen head bolt
on each side will interfere with the bar. The
camber plates also partially
block the original mounting holes where the
strut bar bolts in, so I'd have
to cut the camber plates a little, too. Those
camber plates are made out of
unobtanium, so they are probably hard to
cut.
I bring all this dreary stuff up because it seems to me that anyone
who is
serious enough about racing to buy a $300 strut bar also is a
candidate for
camber plates. When you lower the car, you lose your ability to
adjust the
suspension -- the lower you go, the less camber you can get. So,
to get big
negative camber numbers (I run -3 degrees), you need plates. Alas,
it
appears that the two parts will not work together.
Don't get me
wrong. I am not trying to criticize. Show me how it will clear
my camber
plates -- or modify the bar accordingly to clear on both sides --
and I'll
buy one in a NewYork minute. I think the bar looks absolutely
marvelous and
is a fine piece of work.
This should not be an insurMOUNTable problem
(sorry about that) but it is
beyond my skill level.
I humbly suggest
that the designer bring this teeny problem to the
attention of the boys at
Ground Control and see if there isn't some way to
work together to build a
strut bar/camber plate combo. Maybe they'll loan
you a plate to experiment
with.
Rich/old Poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 25 Jun 2001 19:57:07
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Coolant overflow problem
If you are loosing coolant
from the overflow tube one simple cause may be a bad radiator cap. If the
cap is blowing off at too low of pressure it may be letting all the coolant blow
into overflow bottle which fills up and overflows onto the ground.
John
Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com
Original Message below
>Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:02:03 -0400
>From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
>Subject: Team3S: Problem with coolant.
>This question
is in regards to my 95 VR-4 after >recently changing the
>coolant.
>I seem to be losing coolant from the coolant >resevoir.
>The coolant is coming out of the hose that is open on >the
other end, not the
>one that goes to the radiator
cap....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 25 Jun 2001 20:42:36
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NGK Platnum Spark Plugs $10.99 each
I have seen multiple posts in
the archives suggesting were to buy NGK platinum spark plugs(PFR6J-11) for
between $12 and $14 each.
The best price I have found so far is $10.99
each at advance auto parts, normal chain store.
This beat every
mail order price I have found so far and I don't have to pay
shipping.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:43:54
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front strut tower bar v. camber plates - compatible
?
Chris,
Any comment that might help the "Rich/old poop"
?
Jim
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 5:27 PM
To:
Robert Koch; Floyd, Jim; 'Team 3SI'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front strut tower
bar v. camber plates
At 03:09 PM 6/25/01 -0700, Robert Koch
wrote:
>I think with a little ingenuity we could improve this bar (not to
discredit
>anyone's work) but make it adjustable to accommodate this
problem.
>
I have been out there in my garage peering at my camber
plates, comparing
them to the strut bar photos, and trying to figure out how
to make
everything fit. I would really like to buy that strut bar, but
it looks
like it would take an awful lot of drilling and cutting to make the
bar fit
over and around the mounting bolts for the camber plates. All that
cutting
could weaken the bar.
Go to
www.ground-control.com, go to the
application guide for camber
plates, and look in the lower right hand corner
for the photo. As you'll
see, the plates have four mounting bolts, and at
least one Allen head bolt
on each side will interfere with the bar. The
camber plates also partially
block the original mounting holes where the
strut bar bolts in, so I'd have
to cut the camber plates a little, too. Those
camber plates are made out of
unobtanium, so they are probably hard to
cut.
I bring all this dreary stuff up because it seems to me that anyone
who is
serious enough about racing to buy a $300 strut bar also is a
candidate for
camber plates. When you lower the car, you lose your ability to
adjust the
suspension -- the lower you go, the less camber you can get. So,
to get big
negative camber numbers (I run -3 degrees), you need plates. Alas,
it
appears that the two parts will not work together.
Don't get me
wrong. I am not trying to criticize. Show me how it will clear
my camber
plates -- or modify the bar accordingly to clear on both sides --
and I'll
buy one in a NewYork minute. I think the bar looks absolutely
marvelous and
is a fine piece of work.
This should not be an insurMOUNTable problem
(sorry about that) but it is
beyond my skill level.
I humbly suggest
that the designer bring this teeny problem to the
attention of the boys at
Ground Control and see if there isn't some way to
work together to build a
strut bar/camber plate combo. Maybe they'll loan
you a plate to experiment
with.
Rich/old Poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:54:14
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: caster/camberplates
This is not my project, and I do not want to
offend anyone.........IMHO and
I do mean H
I believe a bar that
incorporates both can be made. I went to the web site
and looked at this
camber plate and all it really is - is a 1/2 plate with
some engraving
milled into it (machinist side of me speaking), a few slots
and this bearing
to not bind the strut. 7000 series aluminum has little if
no corrosion
properties and that's why they say "hard anodized to military
spec" because
if they didn't protect it in some way it wouldn't hold up to
the elements
and look like a battery terminal on an old ford truck. Not to
bag on this
3.00 piece of aluminum they sell for 300.00 but I think making
performance
parts for cars is going to be how I spend my summer this year.
I would
really like to get with the "strut bar man" and see if he is
willing to
share with the engineering of this project. Maybe a second
generation that
incorporates an "L" bracket to bolt to the inside faces of
the strut towers
with a kind of adjustable slot on the end pieces to
accommodate the camber
plates? Once the plate is installed it will hold
down both, But maintain the
center cross bar as is but I suggest hard
anodizing the bar as well but only
after it is shot peened.......this will
in a sense case harden the bar to
help it be stronger and less flexible. It
is far cheaper to anodize a
piece of aluminum rather than powder coat it
and that may help lower the
cost as well. For 300.00 for camber plates I
wonder if ground control could
get them made from titanium? Now we are
talking about
something...........
O.K. all you engineers let me have the punishment
now.
Bob K.
93' R/T FIPK KV85's
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:51:41
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
Front strut tower bar v. camber plates - compatible ?
I guess I
should add my 'me too' at this point ---- I looked at my GC
setup and I
figured I could make it work but I consider myself pretty
handy when it
comes to stuff like that. One problem that will occur is,
at this
point, everyone who installs the GC camber plates picks
their own
mounting location so a pre-drilled brace would be a
problem.
As an aside, if Ground Control provided an
installation template you
could pre-drill with some certainty of a
proper fitment.
Jim berry
==============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Floyd, Jim <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
> To:
'Chris Thorne' <
NETM1nder@aol.com>
>
> >
Chris,
> >
> > Any comment that might help the "Rich/old
poop" ?
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> > Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 5:27
PM
> > To: Robert Koch; Floyd, Jim; 'Team 3SI'
> > Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front strut tower bar v. camber plates
> >
> >
> > At 03:09 PM 6/25/01 -0700, Robert Koch wrote:
> > >I
think with a little ingenuity we could improve this bar (not to
discredit
> >
> > >anyone's work) but make it adjustable
to accommodate this problem.
> > >
> > I have been out
there in my garage peering at my camber plates, comparing
> > them to
the strut bar photos, and trying to figure out how to make
> >
everything fit. I would really like to buy that strut bar, but it
looks
> > like it would take an awful lot of drilling and cutting to
make the bar fit
> > over and around the mounting bolts for the camber
plates. All that cutting
> > could weaken the bar.
> >
> > Go to
www.ground-control.com, go to the
application guide for camber
> > plates, and look in the lower right
hand corner for the photo. As you'll
> > see, the plates have four
mounting bolts, and at least one Allen head bolt
> > on each side will
interfere with the bar. The camber plates also partially
> > block the
original mounting holes where the strut bar bolts in, so I'd have
> >
to cut the camber plates a little, too. Those camber plates are made out
of
> > unobtanium, so they are probably hard to cut.
> >
> > I bring all this dreary stuff up because it seems to me that
anyone who is
> > serious enough about racing to buy a $300 strut bar
also is a candidate for
> > camber plates. When you lower the car, you
lose your ability to adjust the
> > suspension -- the lower you go, the
less camber you can get. So, to get big
> > negative camber numbers (I
run -3 degrees), you need plates. Alas, it
> > appears that the two
parts will not work together.
> >
> > Don't get me wrong. I
am not trying to criticize. Show me how it will clear
> > my camber
plates -- or modify the bar accordingly to clear on both sides --
> >
and I'll buy one in a NewYork minute. I think the bar looks absolutely
>
> marvelous and is a fine piece of work.
> >
> > This
should not be an insurMOUNTable problem (sorry about that) but it is
>
> beyond my skill level.
> >
> > I humbly suggest that the
designer bring this teeny problem to the
> > attention of the boys at
Ground Control and see if there isn't some way to
> > work together to
build a strut bar/camber plate combo. Maybe they'll loan
> > you a
plate to experiment with.
> >
> > Rich/old
Poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:32:07
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
Does anyone have a list of after market
rims that will our cars? TT's and
VR4's?
If not, whom among us has
aftermarket rims?
Id like to get a list compiled to see what my options
are.
I am looking to stay with 17" but if the 18" look cool I can be
persuaded.
Thanks
Greg G
92 RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 14:08:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
Greg,
This is a GREAT idea.
Suprisingly, there are not that many wheel
options for the TT/VR4. I'll be
happy to add a web page at my site
with your compilation of this info
(assuming we get significant
responses). Here is what I just changed to with
no clearance
problems.
Car: 1992 Stealth TT
Wheels: SSR
Integral-GT1 18x9 (38-mm offset), 20 lbs each, forged
Tires: Pirelli P Zero
Rosso Assimetrico 265/35ZR18, 26 lbs each
Suspension: Stock ECS with Ground
Control adjustable springs
Rotors: stock-sized PowerStop
Calipers:
Stock
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To:
<
stealth@starnet.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 26, 2001 8:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
Does anyone have a list of after market rims that will our cars?
TT's
and VR4's?
If not, whom among us has aftermarket rims?
Id
like to get a list compiled to see what my options are.
I am looking to
stay with 17" but if the 18" look cool I can
be
persuaded.
Thanks
Greg G
92 RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:01:51
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rims for 92 Stealth TT
I asked this same question about 6 months
ago and zero response. Since then
I've done some research and found that the
only ones anybody is willing to
admit fitting (except the hideous type you
might find at a hydraulic
suspension gathering) are the Volk TE-37's in the
17" x 9, 40mm offset
variety. I'm sure there are a lot more that would fit,
but it's easier for
vendors to say "they wont fit over the brakes", than to
deal with possible
returns.
Wayne
At 01:32 PM 6/26/01 ,
Greg Gonzales wrote:
>Does anyone have a list of after market rims that
will our cars? TT's and
>VR4's?
>
>If not, whom among us has
aftermarket rims?
>
>Id like to get a list compiled to see what my
options are.
>
>I am looking to stay with 17" but if the 18" look
cool I can be persuaded.
>
>Thanks
>Greg G
>92 RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#531
*********************