>
> Ok - fire away
>
> Cyrus
> SF Bay Area
> '97 VR-4
> Gutted Pre-cats
> Ported/Polished Heads
> Blitz DSBC
> HKS SMF Filter

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 16:41:45 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Raise You Hood - Cool Cooling Mod

ptg,

There is going to be a group buy offered for a front strut tower bar
that fits 1st & 2nd generation 3/S.
More information to follow next week.

Jim

- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul T. Golley [mailto:ptgolley@hiwaay.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 3:54 PM
To: NassiriC@aol.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Raise You Hood - Cool Cooling Mod

When you make a new hood, it would be a real benefit if you also made room
for a front strut tower brace.
Regards,
ptg

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:37:02 -0400
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Jack T's Email?

Try this one.

xwing@wi.rr.com

I'm hoping to finally get into the 11's at the DSM shootout.

Using your old parts. :)

Mark
92' Stealth R/T TT

Aso8@aol.com wrote:

> I've just Emailed Dr Jack .T. at his old Email (xwing@execpc.com) trying to
> register for the DSM Shootout but the Email bounced back?
> Does anyone know if his Email changed? OR
> How do I register my cars info. I tried 3SI but no info?
> Tks
> Arty 91 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 22:14:51 -0700
From: "Steven M." <nws3@winisp.net>
Subject: Team3S: Good Tires? What order for alignment/brakes/tires?

I was thinking of getting the BF Goodrich GForce series for my 94 TT.
Either KD or KDW. Any other suggestions?

And what order should I do the following, brakes (new rotors/pads),
alignment, and the tires.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:02:03 -0400
From: <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: Team3S: Problem with coolant.

This question is in regards to my 95 VR-4 after recently changing the
coolant.

I seem to be losing coolant from the coolant resevoir.

The coolant is coming out of the hose that is open on the other end, not the
one that goes to the radiator cap.

My car leaves little puddles of coolant coming from that hose. Then the low
coolant light comes on because enough coolant has left the resevoir to trip
the low level sensor and I have to fill it back up.

I fill up the resevoir and a couple of days later, the resevoir is low
again.

Fortunately this doesn't cause my car to overheat, but I'm getting tired of
seeing that light and having to keep refilling my coolant resevoir.

By the way, I tried filling it at the radiator cap and noticed the coolant
inside had air bubbles. I've heard that this could be an indication of a
blown head gasket. However I'm not blowing out any white smoke, and my head
gaskets are new. I'm a little worried though, that I may have installed them
incorrectly.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:52:44 -0400
From: <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problem with coolant.

Actually I just changed the pump last week. Do you think it's possible that
I may have installed it incorrectly somehow?

Also I'm almost certain it's coming out of the dump tube from the coolant
resevoir because the puddle is always by the passenger side front wheel and
when I check the dump tube, it is wet. However, I'll inspect the water pump
area for coolant just to be sure.

> Your water pump may be going bad and leaking coolant as you drive around.
> This happened to me before it left a puddle in the driveway. This would
> cause coolant level to be low and also without any smoke. Check under the
> engine (near timing belt)on the driver's side for coolant.
>
> Mark

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:02:10 -0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: UPDATE! Check Engine Light

I went to the dealer to check out my "CHECK ENGiNE" light and the code that
came back was for a bad sensor as we all suspected. The bad sensor is the
MDP Sensor (manifold differential pressure sensor). The service manager
said that I can still drive the car, but to replace the sensor asap. The
retail price for the sensor is $120.00. I am sure that I can get the part
cheaper from Norco or Tallahassee or Rockville.

Anybody know what this sensor actually does?

The car still runs ok but I am staying out of the boost until I get the
sensor replaced.

Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Elkin [mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 10:34
To: Stealth@Starnet. Net (E-mail)
Subject: Check Engine Light REVISITED

I tried using my analog voltmeter to get a code for the origin of my check
engine light. From the manual, it appears that terminals 4 and 5 are the
"ground" terminals and that the others are "diagnostic" terminals for
various functions (cruise control system, fuel injection system, etc...). I
could not find any combinations of terminals 4 or 5 with another "diagnostic
terminal that gave me anything other than the following codes:

1. A continuous pulsing signal that did not vary in time or amplitude.
(normal state per manual)
2. A continuous non-pulsing signal that did not vary in amplitude.
3. No signal at all.

Being the non-mechanic that I am, I am probably testing the wrong terminals
on the diagnostic output terminal. Any help at this point would be much
appreciated.

BTW, I called my local dealer who charges 45$ just to run the diagnostics
and who also told me that they cannot work me in until tomorrow to do
this....how long does this take?

Thanks for listening and thanks again to all who have e-mailed me already
about the problem

Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Greg S.
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 12:20
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light

What about simplifying even more and just say ... a bad sensor. In most
modern
cars there are dozens of sensors monitoring all of the car's operation ....
whenever the computer gets an out of tolerance reading on one of the sensors
it
lights the check engine light and takes reading the code to know exactly
what
has failed. Most of the time a bad sensor will not affect the immediate
operation of the car (as in your case), but it should be checked out and
replaced as soon as possible. On occasion a bad sensor can adversely affect
the
car's performance.

Greg

Moore Mr Dennis W Jr wrote:

> I've never had such a problem with my Stealth, but on every other car I've
> owned the two most common causes are bad oxygen sensor or a bad
temperature
> sensor. But your problem may be none of the above. Do you have the
service
> manuals? They will help answer your question in more detail.
>
> That said, I have a question for the group: can you use the "paper clip
> decoder" on our cars? On my GM cars, jumpering two pins on a connector
> under the dash would cause the "C/E" light to flash the error code the
> computer was reporting. Does this work on ours?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
> 128,000 miles, only 2 unscheduled maintenance events!!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Elkin [mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 7:58 AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Check Engine Light
>
> Hello all,
>
> This morning when I started my car ('96 VR-4), my "CHECK ENGINE" idiot
light
> was on. The light remained on for my entire 10 minute drive to work.
>
> My question is, what is the usual culprit for the "CHECK ENGINE" light to
> come on?
>
> Mark
> '96 VR-4
> '97 YZF 600R

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 08:18:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: UPDATE! Check Engine Light

>> The bad sensor is the MDP Sensor (manifold differential
>> pressure sensor) ... Anybody know what this sensor actually does?

I was curious too so looked it up in the '92-'96 manual that comes on
Vinny's CD (p. 13A-244).

Quote:
- - Manifold differential pressure switch converts the intake manifold
plenum pressure to the voltage and inputs to the engine control
module. Engine control module confirms the operation of EGR system
from this signal and, if there is any error in the EGR system,
memorizes the diagnostic trouble code.
- - 5 V of power is supplied to the manifold differential pressure
sensor from the engine control module, and the sensor circuit ground
is located in the engine control module.
- - The manifold differential pressure sensor output voltage is
proportioned to the intake manifold plenum pressure and sent to the
engine control module.
End Quote

What a waste of a sensor! I bet the ECM still calculates the boost
(manifold differential pressure) even though it is measuring it (or
am I being too cynical?)!

Now this sensor would be perfect for use by the 1st gen owners who
have the latest version of the TMO software that logs boost (actually
almost any 0 to 5V input). Anybody tried this? Hmmm, tap the 1st gen
plenum or "upgrade" to 2nd gen plenum?

Mark, I bet you could test this sensor's operation yourself to see if
it really is bad or not (p. 13A-245).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>; "Team 3S (E-mail)"
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 9:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: UPDATE! Check Engine Light

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:14:17 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: UPDATE! Check Engine Light

>The bad sensor is the MDP Sensor (manifold differential pressure
>sensor). The service manager
>said that I can still drive the car, but to replace the sensor asap. The
>retail price for the sensor is $120.00.
>Anybody know what this sensor actually does?

It exactly does what the name says : measuring the manifold pressure
differential. This is nothing else than a boost sensor that delivers a
pressure related voltage to the ECU. This was brought to the late models
for further emission reductions and the car will not run any bad if it
would not be there. Interestingly I did not knew that this stuff has been
installed in pre 99 cars. I therefore guess yours is a Californian car.

Normally those sensor do not go south, so just unplug it, use some
electrical contact spray and clean the contacts. Maybe the code is gone
afterwards. Oh, yeah, it sits o nthe intake manifold, just right after the
throttle body. It's a black rectangular box, maybe 2 inch in leght. Locate
any connector around it and try to clean it.

Hope this helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

BTW : Please snip the old parts out of the original message when replying
tp the Team3S list

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:44:54 -0500
From: "john adams" <johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Steering wheel, SRS

Recently I know there was some talk concerning replacing the
steering wheel with non-stock replacements. My question is,
is it okay to simply disable the SDM (SRS diagnostic module)?
I've about got a handle on the car's 'little sicknesses', but the unit is
a little corroded on the inside and inoperable. I'd like to know if it's
safe practice to drive with that disabled and the airbag conn.
disconnected at the wheel (actually I removed it into storage
but would like to put it back on for looks and use of the horn,
until I get another SDM, unless I happened to decide to go with a
different steering wheel).

thanks,
john

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:00:06 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Team3S: Big Reds and Road Atlanta

Well I finally got Brad's Big Red kit, installed them and tried them at
Road Atlanta. Like everyone has been saying, this package works. After
a full weekend of very hard braking (RA is pretty hard on brakes), I
never had to bleed the brakes or change pads, and I experienced ZERO
fade.

The install is very straightforward. Brad sends everything you need
with the kit - except rotors, fluid and instructions :-) I used stock
94+ rotors (Porterfield cryo'ed). Once you figure out which SS lines go
where, and where to remount the ABS sensor line, it's just take off the
old, put on the new. I already had SS lines, so I just used the line
that connects to the caliper, and I zip-tied the ABS line to a free spot
on the strut. The Bracket is very well fabricated, and bolts up
perfectly. It took me about 3 hours to do the first side, and maybe 45
minutes to do the other.

The weekend at Road Atlanta was great - sunny, mid 80's. For those who
have driven RA since the reconfiguration of turn 10 (about 3 years ago),
you know how hard you're on the brakes there - it's a sharp left hander
at the end of the back straight, where you come in at 130 - 140, and
brake down to maybe 40 or so. I actually caught a couple modified
Porsches and IT prepped Acuras under braking. To give an indication,
last July at the Raceworks Pro-IT race, the winning ITB car had a best
lap of 1:51.3 I was turning consistent 50's and 49's with a few 48's.
One lap my friend timed me in 1:46, but I think he may have been a
little finger-happy on the stop watch. But make no doubt, with good
brakes, these cars have few equals on the track. And mine is not very
heavily modified either. I have a stock suspension, stock internals,
stock turbos, injectors, etc. Mods include a FIPK, straight exhaust,
EVC (13 lbs boost), AA intercoolers, with Big Reds and R1 tires. I was
reeeeeeally wearing the outside of my tires - especially the fronts - so
my next step is to get some negative camber. Ground Conrtrol, maybe??

- -Steve
'92 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:26:47 -0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: UPDATE! Check Engine Light

<Normally those sensor do not go south, so just unplug it, use some
electrical contact spray and clean the contacts. Maybe the code is gone
afterwards.>

The service manager said to me that he has never seen one of these go bad.
I will check the contacts as you suggest.

<Interestingly I did not knew that this stuff has been
installed in pre 99 cars. I therefore guess yours is a Californian car.>

My car is a '96 and I don't believe it is a California car (originally
purchased in Ohio by the first owner).

<Oh, yeah, it sits o on the intake manifold, just right after the
throttle body. It's a black rectangular box, maybe 2 inch in length. Locate
any connector around it and try to clean it.>

I found the little sensor sitting on top of the plenum, so, I guess if I
replace it, it will be an easy job to do! No dismantling of this and that
to get to the thing.

Thanks for the input.

Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 11:14
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: UPDATE! Check Engine Light

Hope this helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

BTW : Please snip the old parts out of the original message when replying
tp the Team3S list

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jun 2001 09:45:48 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: 4-bolt conversion

I am finally finishing my 4-bolt main conversion and I am trying to find someone who has actually done it to verify some parts needed.

Jeff Lucius has an excellent list of parts needed to do the conversion but I heard that some of the critical parts listed were not needed. So far Jeff's list has been correct.

I can confirm that the timing belt lower cover (MD192109) is needed because the 2-bolt cover will not bolt up to the 4-bolt oil pump.

I am buying the new cover and I am try to determine if I need the following parts too. Its about $100 worth of parts that I don;t want to buy if I dont need to.

- - Rear (left) turbo oil return tube (MD196722)
- - Bracket, A/C Compressor Tension Pulley (required for engines produced before January 1992) (MB958144) [~$40]
- - Stay, T/M Housing Front Lower Cover (in front, from engine to bellhousing, because newer oil pan is wider) (MD176109) [~$34]

If I don't get a reply I will find out on my own but it will delay my finishing the car another week or two while I wait for parts.

If I had to do this again I would put the 2nd gen crank in the 2 bolt block and install Clevite 77 bearings. Which is what Altered Atmosphere suggested when I called them months ago.

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:42:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: New stuff I can sell..

For the club people I deal with, Ive got new goodies I can sell.

I can now get wholesale pricing on Redline oils Odyssey ultra-lightweight
rcing batteries, Tilton, Wilwood, XRP, and Fuel-Safe fuel cell products
now too.

In other news: Motul has released a new M600 brake fluid with a higher
boiling points of 594 dry, and 421 wet. Bit of trivia I learned is that
the DOT #s for brake fluids indicates it's resistance to absorbing
moisture, the higher the rating, the longer it can stay in the system.
Pricing has not changed on the new fluid.

Redline pricing is approx. $89/case for most engine, and tranny/gear
fluids.

A couple of the car clubs that are getting this I have race evnets with
this weekend, Wednesday -morning- is your last chance to order anything
you may need at the track Saturday & Sunday..spare pads and fluid is a
- -good- thing to have.

- ---
Geoff Mohler <gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA

You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed you..

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:05:06 -0500
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM SHOOTOUT ENTRANT UPDATE 6-25-01

DSM SHOOTOUT ENTRANT LIST Update 6-25-01
Here is the list of those coming so far--
If you aren't here or want to be, or can't come, email me at
xwing@wi.rr.com!

DSM SHOOTOUT July 20-22 2001
Norwalk Raceway Park, Norwalk Ohio
Sponsor: Buschur Racing

Our Shootout is on Friday July 20; ALL IMPORT Shootout on Sunday July 22.
There is an
autocross Saturday, open to 3S and DSM's.
If you have info/missing/needing change, email ME DIRECT
xwing@wi.rr.com
? denotes not sure if coming. Info needed:

1)Your full name + "3SI nickname"
2)Car/color/Shop (if associated with one)
3)City/State of origin
4)Hotel you're staying at
5)email

1 Aaron "zentelis", 94 RT/TT, Hanover PA
2 Ryan Alavi "StreetRacer", 95 VR4 black Altered Atmosphere, Bowie MD,
GTeklnc@aol.com
3 Shaun Atkinson "Yellow ES", 92 Stealth ES yellow, Farmersville OH,
4 Dave Best "Dave Best", 92 VR4 maroon, Kingstown VA, Amerihost Suites,
WDB039@erols.com
5 Brian Bochenek, 93 VR4 black Altered Atmospheres/ Alamo Motorsports, New
Britain CT, badblackVR4@snet.net
6 Terry Bosserman "black95rttt", 95RT/TT Dynamic Racing/GT Pro, Findlay OH,
black95rttt@hotmail.com
7 Brian "allengineSL", 95 3000GT SL, Chicago IL
8 ?Bruce "Bruce", 95 VR4 red, Granada Hills CA
9 Joe Canella, 96 VR4 Spyder Altered Atmosphere, MD
10 Wayne Carickhoff "WAYNECAR", 95 VR4 yellow, Harrisonburg VA,
TTAWD@aol.com
11 Scott Cowan, 92 VR4 black P1pedream Motorsports, Waukesha WI, staying in
Port Clinton OH
sjcOu812@juno.com
12 Mark Creekmore, 92 RT/TT black, Akron OH, mcreekmore@usa.net
13 Eric Doerr, 93RT/TT white Altered Atmosphere, MD
14 Shawn Enz, 94 3000GT SL, Philadelphia PA, EnzS@towers.com
15 Hans Ertl "Hans91GT", 91 3000GT, + 92 RT/TT Ground Zero Performance,
hertl@snip.net
16 Mike Feryok "MikeF", 92 RT/TT white, Detroit MI
17 ?Rob Flynn "akira410", 92 VR4 white + 97 VR4 white, Irvine CA
18 "igots2", 92 VR4
19 Joe Gonsowski "JoeG", 92 RT/TT GK Racing (will record ET's for us, car
not done yet) Westland MI,
twinturbo@mediaone.net
20 Rick Hawley "Huntervr4", 93 VR4 green, Greenwood IN, TT_3KGT@hotmail.com
21 ?J.B., 94 3000GT SL TT Altered Atmosphere
22 Trevor James "Trevor", 96 RT/TT red, Wichita KS, Hampton Inn Milan,
trevor@kscable.com
23 Jeff "mr2turb", 95VR4, Columbus OH
24 Jim Juliff, 92 RT/TT black, Lenexa KS, Amerihost Suites,
jejuliff@yahoo.com
25 Trent Karr "TKarr", 93 RT/TT, Wyomissing PA
26 Jim Kielma, RT/TT, Cudahy WI, jkielma@aol.com
27 Jeff Lucius "Jeff Lucius", 92 RT/TT red, Golden CO, Ramada Ltd,
jlucius@stealth316.com
28 Shawn MacArthur "BigBadVR4", 92VR4 black GT Pro, Shawnmac@usa.net
29 Mike Mahaffey "Lotoboost", 94 Stealth + 96 VR4 Altered Atmosphere,
30 Omar Malik "ojm", 92 RT/TT or 92 TT Ground Zero Performance, Philadelphia
PA, ojm@iname.com
31 "Mellon", 91RT/TT white
32 Dan Mercier "DanM_94_VR4", 94 VR4 green 3SX Automotive Technology/GT Pro,
Louisville KY, dan@3sxperts.com
33 Mark Metzler "96TTtrqmnster", 96 TT, Harrisburg PA,
turbostealthrt@aol.com
34 Matt Monett "snakeskinner", 93 RT/TT white Dynamic Racing/GT Pro, NM
35 Nino "hated", 91 RT/TT "The Lab", San Diego CA, Super 8 Hotel,
hated@hotmail.com
36 Anthony Ng "Antmay", 95 VR4, Rocky River OH, anthony.ng@onbase.com
37 Kyle OBrian, 95 VR4 black Accelerated Accessories, Chambersburg PA,
baddvr4@yahoo.com
38 Shawn M. O'Connor "soc3GT95basn20", 95 3000GT n/a red, Charlotte NC
39 Oskar, RT/TT white, Minneapolis MN, Osk@mediaone.net
40 Pete Palamara "palamarap", 92 VR4 blue Action Turbo/Altered Atmosphere,
Greenwood Village CO, pala@gwl.com
41 "pokey293", 91 VR4 Dynamic Racing/GTPro, Phoenix AZ
42 Bill Potter, 91 VR4 red, Mokena IL, Days Inn, potter@interaccess.com
43 Paul Prentiss "Paul", 92 RT/TT black, Tempe AZ, yogourt@aol.com
44 Paul Prentiss Sr., 99 VR4 black, Grosse Pointe MI, maxnix@aol.com
45 "Racer X", RT/TT, Stockbridge GA
46 Jetinder Raja "Raja", 94 VR4 yellow, Lawrence KS
47 Greg Rush "rushvr4", 92 VR4 silver, Cincinnati OH, rush@siscom.net
48 Ryan "Shadowfax", 92 RT/TT
49 Ryan "PriOityp", 94 SL
50 James S. "James S", 94 RT/TT yellow, Rockford IL, FastYZFR6@aol.com
51 Darren Schilberg, 95 VR4 black, Pittsburgh, PA,
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com
52 Matt Schneider "Schneider80", 95 VR4 blue, Chicago IL, matt@cbcast.com
53 Rob Schoen "rob", MI, rschoen@home.com
54 Arthur C. Shevack "Arty 91 VR4", 91 VR4 black Tuner M, Staten Island NY,
aso8@aol.com
55 ?Vineet Singh, 92 RT/TT blue, Naperville IL, Econolodge or Best Western,
eagletek@ecanfix.com
56 Josh Slusher "Slush5", 91 Stealth SOHC blue/white, Celina OH, Amerihost
Inn, slush5@hotmail.com
57 Chris Smyrniotis "fierce" 92 RT/TT green GT Pro, Chicago IL,
TridentD5@aol.com
58 Jose Soriano "Amahoser", 91 RT/TT red GT Pro, Southern CA
59 Jack Tertadian "xwing", 94 VR4 red Atomic Motorsports, Oak Creek WI,
Econolodge, xwing@execpc.com
60 Charles Theiss, 94 RT/TT yellow Altered Atmosphere Bethesda MD,
StealthCT@aol.com
61 Bill Tricarico "Hollywood", 91 VR4 Altered Atmosphere, Islip Terrace NY,
BKBVR4@aol.com
62 Mike Tucker "1badVR4", 93 VR4 chameleon GT Pro, San Antonio TX
63 Kevin Umbreit "unclesam099", 91 RT blue, unclesam099@hotmail.com
64 Christian Williamson "daprguy", 91 RT/NA champaign GTPro, S. CA
65 Jeff Williamson "JeffW3000", 92 VR4 red, Belleville MI,
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
66 Mark Winemiller "Mark", 93 RT/TT white, Dayton OH (staying with friends),
markw@siscom.net
67 Bob Witmer, 93 RT/TT, MI
68 Peter Yaghi "crazey", 96 VR4 white East Side Motorsports, Columbia SC,
Crazylc@hotmail.com

Number of people: 68+
Number of Shops: 12 (Alamo Motorsports, Altered Atmosphere, Atomic
Motorsports, Dynamic Racing, East Side Motorsports, GKRacing, Ground Zero
Performance, GT Pro, The Lab, P1pedream Motorsports, 3SX Engineering,
Tuner M)

Number of Stealths: 33 (some have not listed their car, some have more than
one car)
Number of 3000GTs: 37

Sounds like the big shops have some HUGE turbo systems, weird computers,
snazzy hardware, and reputations at stake--don't miss it!
Art Shevack hopes to put 1000 HORSEPOWER to the pavement! Let's be there to
cheer him and the
rest on, and PARTICIPATE!

BEEEE THEEEEERRE!!!
Thanks!
Jack Tertadian, Atomic Motorsports

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:01:54 -0400
From: <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problem with coolant.

Did this cause his car to overheat as well?
I recently put new head gaskets in and I'm afraid I may have installed them
incorrectly.

> Not to sound alarmist, but I had a friend who had this problem on his VW
> (VR-6). He only began to notice it after he put a supercharger on it. It
> was a bad head gasket and the coolant was being forced into the overflow
> reservoir under boost and ran out the overfill tube.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:30:38 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: Front strut tower bar - group buy

3/S owners,

We have an opportunity to get a front strut tower bar for
our cars, 3000GT, SL or VR4 - 1st or 2nd generation. One of our car owners,
Chris Thorne in PA, is going to allow us to do a group buy if we can get
enough people together. 10 people would get us a 10% discount and if we can
get 25 people we can get a 20% price reduction from the prices listed below.

This bar is CNC machined from a solid piece of 6061-T6
Aluminum to dimensions of 1.5 inches x .625 inches.
A picture of the prototype bar can be seen at:

http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GT/FrontStrutTowerBar/FrontStrutTowerBar.h
tml
THE ADDRESS ABOVE MUST ALL BE ON ONE LINE. If it isn't, then
copy it to your browser as one line.

The prototype you see in the pictures will be strengthened
at the bend angles with "bridges" to eliminate any possibility of flexing.
Chris can be contacted at NETM1NDER@aol.com if you have
technical questions.
I am doing the administration of this buy because Chris
works 60 hours a week and I want to help him get this off the ground so I
can have a strut bar.

The configurations are listed below:

- Black Chrome finish (mirror finish powder coated paint) with a
battery hold down (also black chrome finish) lists for $350.00.
(Paint colors other than the black chrome finish will be $50.00
extra unless we get five of the same color - red, blue, etc.- then no extra
charge)

- The strut tower bar painted with the black chrome finish without
the battery hold down is $300.00.

- The strut tower bar only, without paint or a hold down is $280.00

A battery hold down is required because the stock battery
and stock battery hold down can not be used due to clearance.
A battery like the Optima or one with dimensions of H =
6.75 x W = 6.813 x L = 9.75" or smaller can be used ( H, W & L = + or
- - .25") can be used.
Another option is to relocate your battery to the back so no
hold down is required

If you choose to participate in this group buy please E-mail
me, Jim Floyd at jim_floyd@maxtor.com.
Give me your name, a phone number, a shipping address and
which configuration/color you want. Standard color is the black chrome
paint.
I will respond with an acknowledgement and the number of
participants we have as of your commitment. We have eight as of Monday
18Jun01.

The buy will go down like this.
We each will send $150.00 deposit to Chris Thorne. This will
separate the Men from the boys.
He will not cash checks or start manufacturing until we have
at least 10 people's checks received. He will then submit the first 10
checks and begin manufacturing once they have cleared through their banks.
Manufacturing will take 4 - 6 weeks. FOB:SP (customer pays the freight)
The deposit checks will go to:
Chris Thorne
Apt. 212
1404 East Schuylkill Road
Pottstown, PA 19465

If you need to contact me by phone I am at 303-702-4421 during the
day.

Jim Floyd

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:54:01 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front strut tower bar - group buy

Does anyone know if the strut tower bar will clear camber plates?

Looks like that big fat part of the bar is located right where the camber
plates mount.

If I can't move the top of the strut inward because there's a strut bar
there blocking me, then I can't get negative camber.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4 w/GC camber plates.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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End of Team3S V1 #530
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