Team3S              Friday, June 22 2001              Volume 01 : Number 527

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:12:01 -0400
From: <profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Project update (was: she's alive)

>>BTW, I removed one
>>lifter and compared them with the second gen lifters ... and found no
>>difference at all. Same size of all openings and dimensions.

Really??? I just changed my lifters not that long ago and I found that the
opening at the top of the new lifter was bigger than the opening on the old
lifter. The size of the opening on the old lifter was roughly the size of a
pinhole, whereas the size of the opening on the new lifter was roughly the
size of a pinhead.

I have a really bad pic on my site showing the two.

http://www.3000gtvr4.net/images/tech/lash_adj.jpg

Michael Bulaon

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:19:41 -0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine Light REVISITED

I tried using my analog voltmeter to get a code for the origin of my check
engine light. From the manual, it appears that terminals 4 and 5 are the
"ground" terminals and that the others are "diagnostic" terminals for
various functions (cruise control system, fuel injection system, etc...). I
could not find any combinations of terminals 4 or 5 with another "diagnostic
terminal that gave me anything other than the following codes:

1. A continuous pulsing signal that did not vary in time or amplitude.
(normal state per manual)
2. A continuous non-pulsing signal that did not vary in amplitude.
3. No signal at all.

Being the non-mechanic that I am, I am probably testing the wrong terminals
on the diagnostic output terminal. Any help at this point would be much
appreciated.

BTW, I called my local dealer who charges 45$ just to run the diagnostics
and who also told me that they cannot work me in until tomorrow to do
this....how long does this take?

Thanks for listening and thanks again to all who have e-mailed me already
about the problem

Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Greg S.
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 12:20
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light

What about simplifying even more and just say ... a bad sensor. In most
modern
cars there are dozens of sensors monitoring all of the car's operation ....
whenever the computer gets an out of tolerance reading on one of the sensors
it
lights the check engine light and takes reading the code to know exactly
what
has failed. Most of the time a bad sensor will not affect the immediate
operation of the car (as in your case), but it should be checked out and
replaced as soon as possible. On occasion a bad sensor can adversely affect
the
car's performance.

Greg

Moore Mr Dennis W Jr wrote:

> I've never had such a problem with my Stealth, but on every other car I've
> owned the two most common causes are bad oxygen sensor or a bad
temperature
> sensor. But your problem may be none of the above. Do you have the
service
> manuals? They will help answer your question in more detail.
>
> That said, I have a question for the group: can you use the "paper clip
> decoder" on our cars? On my GM cars, jumpering two pins on a connector
> under the dash would cause the "C/E" light to flash the error code the
> computer was reporting. Does this work on ours?
> Thanks.
> Dennis Moore

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 07:17:39 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Project update (was: she's alive)

Please keep us posted ---- I'm especially interested in the driveability of the
car with the 368's ---- lag etc.

    Jim Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>

> I just find some time last weekend and fixed (or at least tried) the
> problems I had when I first started her up.
> 1) timing belt
> The engine sounded horrible and I thought of the timing belt being skipped
> one teeth on the crank. I was familiar with the stock pulley but not with
> the underdrive one I now have on the car so I was not sure. Thanks to Mark
> Wendlandt I verified the correct line-up and everythign was fine. It was

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:18:37 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light REVISITED

I had a "check engine" light problem with my '96 VR-4 after I did the FIPK.
It was the cable plugs under the FIPK (I can't identify them) that were a
little big loose after I change the filter. Check your cable connections.

Hope this help!

Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
'93 3KGT Black Base

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Elkin [mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 10:20 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine Light REVISITED

I tried using my analog voltmeter to get a code for the origin of my check
engine light. From the manual, it appears that terminals 4 and 5 are the
"ground" terminals and that the others are "diagnostic" terminals for
various functions (cruise control system, fuel injection system, etc...). I
could not find any combinations of terminals 4 or 5 with another "diagnostic
terminal that gave me anything other than the following codes:

1. A continuous pulsing signal that did not vary in time or amplitude.
(normal state per manual)
2. A continuous non-pulsing signal that did not vary in amplitude.
3. No signal at all.

Being the non-mechanic that I am, I am probably testing the wrong terminals
on the diagnostic output terminal. Any help at this point would be much
appreciated.

BTW, I called my local dealer who charges 45$ just to run the diagnostics
and who also told me that they cannot work me in until tomorrow to do
this....how long does this take?

Thanks for listening and thanks again to all who have e-mailed me already
about the problem

Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:00:13 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!

Ok, having the diagram is the first step.

Next - assuming you have mastered the reading of the diagram, you need to go
to the connection in the circuit that feeds the failing components and
disconnect the connection closest to the battery.

You need to put in a new fuse and find out if it blows with everything on
that circuit disconnected.

If you are luck it will blow. Now you know what section of wire the failure
is in and you need to examine it to find where the problem is. It can be
almost anything but is usually worn insulation or a broken lead touching
metal.

If it does not blow then you need to reconnect the connection and proceed to
the second closest connection and rerun the same test.

You have to keep this up until you find the culprit.

You need a meter, and I have found that having both a digital meter, and an
analog can help a lot.

Good Luck,

Andy

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:28:05 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!

I am in this process now. PITA. I found some king of an "ignition cut off"
cable under the front fuse box running to the glove compartment. In the
glove compartment the cables were tigh together with no tape or nothing,
totally exposed! However, the fuse in this section was OK. Thanks God! I
fix it. This has no direct relation to the section I am having problem with.

I am going to continue the search this weekend. I'll let you know the
outcome.
Again, Thanks for the advice and info.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew D. Woll [mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:00 PM
To: Berrios, Victor L; 'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!

Ok, having the diagram is the first step.

Next - assuming you have mastered the reading of the diagram, you need to go
to the connection in the circuit that feeds the failing components and
disconnect the connection closest to the battery.

You need to put in a new fuse and find out if it blows with everything on
that circuit disconnected.

If you are luck it will blow. Now you know what section of wire the failure
is in and you need to examine it to find where the problem is. It can be
almost anything but is usually worn insulation or a broken lead touching
metal.

If it does not blow then you need to reconnect the connection and proceed to
the second closest connection and rerun the same test.

You have to keep this up until you find the culprit.

You need a meter, and I have found that having both a digital meter, and an
analog can help a lot.

Good Luck,

Andy

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:36:07 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: upper IC kit from Buschur Racing

I just bought a Upper Intercooler pipe kit from Buschr Racing and it should
solve my BOV problems. But I do not understand how it will mount to take
the place of the stock BOV.

The stock BOV mounts to a plastic hose which the MAS attached to. The other
end attaches to a hose, which connects to the intercooler y-Pipe.

How will this part mount with the MAS. The guy from Buschr told me it will
work with the stock MAS, but he tried his best to describe to me how it
mounts, but I am still confused.

Can anyone shed some light onto the situation ? Thanks

Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 16:31:23 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Project update (was: she's alive)

Yes, it's hard to see but I know what you mean :)

The ones I use now are from the 91'Stealth where the belt slipped (I have
some weird pics up soon of the damage) and the others are out of my 93'EU
engine with the 13g. All holes of them are like a pinhole and therefore the
lifters may have been changed in a later year ! Anyways, I do not have any
loud ticking if any :) (I'm using 5W50 Castrol Racing oil without additive)

>Really??? I just changed my lifters not that long ago and I found that the
>opening at the top of the new lifter was bigger than the opening on the old
>lifter. The size of the opening on the old lifter was roughly the size of a
>pinhole, whereas the size of the opening on the new lifter was roughly the
>size of a pinhead.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:16:34 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?

it's not a tight fit? it doesn't pull the top of the strut towers inward or
push them out?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 9:13 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Ken Stanton'; Team3S Stealth
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?
>
> The strut bar doesn't require the removal of any pieces parts --- It just
> bolts
> on the top of the strut tower.   Ergo ---- no alignment required.
>
>         Jim Berry
> ======================================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Willis, Charles E. <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
> > Anytime I do anything to the suspension, like remove and reinstall
> struts, I
> > get a 4 wheell alignment. I would imagine that the strut bar could
> affect
> > the alighnment.
> >
> > Chuck
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Ken Stanton [SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 12:14 AM
> > >
> > > If I install a Cusco Strut Bar in the rear, do I need to have an
> > > alignment etc?
> > > Thanks

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:35:46 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?

You might be able to put a little pressure on the tower but not inough to
deform any settings ---- plus there should be no movement of the shock
mounting points during an alignment.

        jim Berry
===========================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: 'Jim Berry' <fastmax@home.com>; 'Ken Stanton' <tt007ken@yahoo.com>; Team3S Stealth <
> it's not a tight fit? it doesn't pull the top of the strut towers inward or
> push them out?
> >
> > The strut bar doesn't require the removal of any pieces parts --- It just
> > bolts
> > on the top of the strut tower.   Ergo ---- no alignment required.
> >         Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 17:49:36 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: upper IC kit from Buschur Racing

>I just bought a Upper Intercooler pipe kit from Buschr Racing and it should
>solve my BOV problems. But I do not understand how it will mount to take
>the place of the stock BOV.

A pipe kit that solves the BOV problems ??? Sounds strange to me !

>The stock BOV mounts to a plastic hose which the MAS attached to. The other
>end attaches to a hose, which connects to the intercooler y-Pipe.

No, there is no hose attached to the MAS at all. You probably mean that a
plastic pipe goes into the bottom of the rubber intake part after the MAS.
I therefore think that the valve is relocated from its original location,
right ?

Sorry, I do have no idea what an upper IC pipe kit should look like.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 11:46:51 -0500
From: Sean Winker <sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheel weights

Does anyone know off hand the weight of a 1st gen OEM wheel from a TT or
VR4(17")?

Sean
'91 R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:14:41 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?

Cool! I've seen these things installed on a lot of cars, not ours. I guess
this sticks through the passenger compartment in place of the "luggage
shade" thing. Is this thing easy enough to disconnect, say in the case of a
wet track?

Chuck
("Stiffer is better!" she said.)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 10:36 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Ken Stanton'; Team3S Stealth
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?
>
> You might be able to put a little pressure on the tower but not inough to
> deform any settings ---- plus there should be no movement of the shock
> mounting points during an alignment.
>
>         jim Berry
> ===========================================

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 11:13:12 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel weights

> Does anyone know off hand the weight of a 1st gen OEM wheel
> from a TT or VR4(17")?

1G Stealth R/T TT wheels are about 27-28 pounds each. With a new stock-size
tire, they're about 55-56 pounds each. BTW, the chrome 17" 5-spoke wheels
from a '94 VR-4 are significantly lighter (tire + wheel was 47lbs, but they
were different tires)! Haven't weighed the 18" monsters on my VR-4 yet.

- --Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 11:43:37 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!

You are on the right track Victor. Electrical troubleshooting can be a real
nightmare and is almost always very time consuming. I have found that the
problems are usually the same in most cars I have owned. The damn
manufacturers leave about an inch where a hard to get to wire fits into
another connector and it is just about impossible to do anything with these
things.

Then, after you cut open a bundle of wires sealed in heat shrink or its
equivalent the problem was not in that region anyway. You wind up using a
lot of tye wraps and tape after the long haul finding the problem. A shop
won't do anything you are not doing, but if you don't find the problem after
about 20 hours you may want to consider using a pro. Sometimes just bringing
a new outlook to a problem winds up with a solution. Keep us posted.

Andy

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:30:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Flash <dschilberg@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel weights

17" 1999 SL wheels (22#) and 255/45/17 Yoko A032 tire weighs 50#.

The 18" 1995 VR-4 wheels and 245/40/18 Pirelli P-Zero tire weighs 50#.

"Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com> wrote ..
> 1G Stealth R/T TT wheels are about 27-28 pounds each. With a new stock-size
> tire, they're about 55-56 pounds each. BTW, the chrome 17" 5-spoke wheels
> from a '94 VR-4 are significantly lighter (tire + wheel was 47lbs, but
> they
> were different tires)! Haven't weighed the 18" monsters on my VR-4 yet.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 15:44:24 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: where is best buy on IC Hard Pipe set

I am thinking about getting the InterCooler Hard Pipe set, and was wondering
if anyone knew where to get a good deal ?

The nice guy at D&N Performance said that it is on sale now for $499. Is
this a good price, does anyone know where I could get it cheaper ?

D&N also had the polished Intercooler Y-Pipe. I bought one from GTPRO about
a year ago, and the shine is almost gone, so I may replace that also.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 15:41:34 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: where is best buy on IC Hard Pipe set

I haven't find any better prices than DN. I have the Y-pipe and intakes.

- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 3:44 PM
To: 3000GT List Submissions
Subject: Team3S: where is best buy on IC Hard Pipe set

I am thinking about getting the InterCooler Hard Pipe set, and was wondering
if anyone knew where to get a good deal ?

The nice guy at D&N Performance said that it is on sale now for $499. Is
this a good price, does anyone know where I could get it cheaper ?

D&N also had the polished Intercooler Y-Pipe. I bought one from GTPRO about
a year ago, and the shine is almost gone, so I may replace that also.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 16:04:43 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: For Sale: Pearl White 1995 3000GT (updated)

Details and Pictures at :

http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTSale/3000GTSale.html

Putting brand new Z-rated tires on it this evening...

Highlights, if you don't have a web browser handy:
- -------------------------------------------------------------

For Sale: 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT
* Located in DuPont, WA (near Olympia and Tacoma)

This car is my baby - I'm actually quite sad to let her go, but time to move
on... I'm hoping to sell her to someone who I know will appreciate all the
hard work I've put into maintaining her and will treat her well. I've, of
course, babied her and am pretty obsessive over my cars. More on that later.
She's in beautiful condition - interior, exterior, and especially
mechanically. I've done most of the service myself (have spreadsheets of
maintenance and gas mileage), so I know it was done right. I will not BS you
about this car - I've owned it since 29,685 miles (March, 1998) and know it
like the back of my hand. The only reason I'm not keeping her forever is
because, I finally bought a 3000GT VR-4 previously owned by someone more
obsessive than I. Somehow that eases the pain ;)

As I said, I'm pretty obsessive about the condition of my cars. This is not
my daily driver (I have a Corolla for that), so I typically use it for nice
weekends and road trips. I've never had it on the track or raced with it.
The previous owner kept the car in a garage, as did I. The paint has been
polished and waxed with products from Griot's Garage and is in excellent
condition. I always double clutch and rev-match when downshifting to extend
clutch and transmission synchronizer life. I also never run the car without
letting it warm up completely before shutting if off to reduce carbon
deposits in the cylinders. The interior is in immaculate condition (you
could eat off of the carpet) and has also been maintained with products from
Griot's Garage The engine bay has also been routinely cleaned, as you can
see from the pictures to come. As you can see in the dash picture below,
there are no warning lights on the dash and all gauges are at normal levels
when the car is operating. (The pictures was taken with a warm engine,
parked, in neutral, with the tach at 3000RPM. Note the lack of warning
lights, the coolant temperature gauge (left center gauge), oil pressure
gauge (middle center gauge), and electrical system voltage (right center
gauge).

General Features:
* VIN: JA3AM84J8SY007811
* 2+2 2-door Coupe
* Glacier White Pearl Exterior, Charcoal Interior
* 78,XXX Original Miles, All Mitsubishi Recommended Service Up To Date

* Clear Title
* (5/5 Reliability Rating From Carpoint.com)
* EPA Fuel Economy Rating: 19 City, 25 Highway
* Real Fuel Economy Rating: 20 City, 27-29 Highway

Mechanical Features:
* 3.0L DOHC V6 (Engine Code 6G72)
* 5-speed Manual Transmission with Synchronized Reverse
* 16x8" Aluminum Alloy Wheels
* 225/55/ZR16 Tires
* Lots more...

Interior Features:
* Cloth Seats with 50/50 Fold-Down Rear Seats
* Infinity Premium 8-speaker Sound System with External Amplifier
* Lots more...

Service:
* Cooling System Power-flushed at 77k miles
* Fuel System Cleaned with BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner regularly
* New OEM clutch at 51,000 miles
* Timing belt, P/S belt, and A/C belt replaced at 51k miles
* Water pump replaced at 51k miles
* New NGK Double-Platinum 60,000 mile Spark Plugs (at 71l miles)
* Brand New Z-rated Firestone Tires (top of the line)
* Only Premium Fuel Used (92+ octane Chevron or Texaco)
* Cylinder Compression 177-184psi (185psi from the factory)
* Mobil1 10W30 Full Synthetic Oil every 3,000 miles since 47,000 miles

* Meticulous Maintenance Records From 27,900 miles
* Gas Mileage History from 40,000 miles

Included Extras:
* Viper 600HF Alarm & Keyless Entry - top of the line with starter
kill
* New Battery Terminals
* Dynamat Sound Dampening (over 5 rolls @ $80/roll !!!)
* Sears Diehard 84 month battery (07/25/98)
* New Power Antenna Mast
* Mitsubishi OEM Mudguards
* BRAND NEW Firestone Firehawk SZ50 225/55/ZR16 Tires

- ----
Market Pricing(Stock Car with Factory Options):
Retail:
* Kelly Blue Book : $14,195.00 (Add Mileage and Rear Spoiler)
* N.A.D.A. Consumer & Dealer : $12,400.00

Wholesale:
* Kelly Blue Book : $10,225.00 (Add Mileage and Rear Spoiler)
* N.A.D.A. Consumer & Dealer : $10,375.00

Asking Price: $12,250

Optional Extras (prices negotiable):
* K&N FIPK Open-element Air Filter (CARB Approved)
* Magnacor KV85 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires
* Cusco Rear Strut Tower Brace and Matching Custom Interior Panels
* Mitsubishi OEM Nosemask (Bra)
* '92-'95 Factory Service Manuals
* Mitsubishi OEM Floor Mats
* Complete Set of OEM Brake Pads, Clips, and Shims
* $4000 Car Stereo (Alpine, MB Quart, Boston Acoustics, etc.)

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 18:13:24 -0700
From: "stealthdevil" <stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: FIPK

Robert,

Instead of going with the FIPK, go with the K&N Aircharger. Same thing with
a slightly bigger filter element. The FIPK is more because it comes with
some sticker that says it "legal" and it comes with recharge solution. I
got my Aircharger from Mach-V Motorsports for $99. It is made for a 95-99
Eclipse but it bolts right up without a problem. I've had mine for over a
year now and it is still extremely clean(very dusty Albuquerque, NM) and
I've passed emissions with it.

Gabe

'92 Black Stealth TT
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Stillen Downpipe

'93 Pearl White 3000GT SL
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Removed Resonator
- -Pioneer Premier Deck
- -Polk dx9 Speakers
- -Pioneer 400w AMp
- -Pioneer 10" Sub

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 20:14:43 -0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: FIPK

Better yet, look on ebay for a guy selling the K&N filter with the
stillen adapter. He sells them for $50 and they are awesome!

Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com

-----Original Message-----
From: stealthdevil [mailto:stealthdevil@netzero.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 9:13 PM
To: Robert Koch; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: FIPK

Robert,

Instead of going with the FIPK, go with the K&N Aircharger. Same thing
with
a slightly bigger filter element. The FIPK is more because it comes
with
some sticker that says it "legal" and it comes with recharge solution.
I
got my Aircharger from Mach-V Motorsports for $99. It is made for a
95-99
Eclipse but it bolts right up without a problem. I've had mine for over
a
year now and it is still extremely clean(very dusty Albuquerque, NM) and
I've passed emissions with it.

Gabe

'92 Black Stealth TT
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Stillen Downpipe

'93 Pearl White 3000GT SL
- -K&N Air Charger
- -Removed Resonator
- -Pioneer Premier Deck
- -Polk dx9 Speakers
- -Pioneer 400w AMp
- -Pioneer 10" Sub

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:27:06 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?

Well, s trut bar really doesn't change any suspension geometry, nor do you
have to remove anything that would require re alignment. An alignment is
something that could never hurt though, so if ya got money to spare, and its
been a while, I'd go ahead and have one done, although if you just got one
done, I would pass.

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st

Anytime I do anything to the suspension, like remove and reinstall struts, I
get a 4 wheell alignment. I would imagine that the strut bar could affect
the alighnment.

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> If I install a Cusco Strut Bar in the rear, do I need to have an
> alignment etc?
> Thanks
>
> Ken

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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:21:54 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Alignment   was: RE: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?

Speaking of alignments, what would be some setting to start with that give
aggressive handling?

Michael

>From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
>To: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>,   "Team3S"
><team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?
>Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:27:06 -0500
>
>Well, s trut bar really doesn't change any suspension geometry, nor do you
>have to remove anything that would require re alignment. An alignment is
>something that could never hurt though, so if ya got money to spare, and
>its
>been a while, I'd go ahead and have one done, although if you just got one
>done, I would pass.
>
>-Cody
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
>Anytime I do anything to the suspension, like remove and reinstall struts,
>I
>get a 4 wheell alignment. I would imagine that the strut bar could affect
>the alighnment.
>
>Chuck
> > -----Original Message-----
> > If I install a Cusco Strut Bar in the rear, do I need to have an
> > alignment etc?
> > Thanks
> >
> > Ken

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Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 01:18:12 -0400
From: "Robert Booker" <nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Crank angle sensor install?

Has anybody changed the CAS? if so, does it require any setup, or does it
just bolt into place? Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Matt

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Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 02:39:32 -0400
From: "anscray" <anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Project update (was: she's alive)

Roger,

Curious as to how many miles the engine has on it, as I have just replaced
my valve stem seals and was considering replacing the lifters while I was
already there... I opted not do so, as I decided the ticking was being
caused by the loss of oil thru the seals... After replacing the seals the
ticking has stopped, but something tells me my lifters are next.. BTW, All
Mitsubishi's seem to acquire this tick, tick, ticking when either oil is
moderately low and or lifters are not working properly.. This doesnt make
me feel all warm and fuzzy knowing its all Mitsu's but at least it they are
consistant with all models!!!!

Scott
94 VR4
K&N FIPK, Borla Exhaust, Apexi AVC-R, Greddy S-Type BOV

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Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 07:34:04 -0400
From: Moore Mr Dennis W Jr <MooreDW@mcsc.usmc.mil>
Subject: Team3S: Resonator Bottle Removal Questions

Hi All,

A couple years ago there was a lot of hubbub about removing the resonator
bottle. Some folks liked the new acoustics, others claimed it also improved
performance. If you're one of those folks who did that mod:

1. Has anyone confirmed that performance improves?
2. Anyone have any "bad things" happen because of doing this?

Thanks.

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
128,000 miles, only 2 unscheduled maintenance events!!!

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 10:17:51 EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Resonator Bottle Removal Questions

> 1. Has anyone confirmed that performance improves?
> 2. Anyone have any "bad things" happen because of doing this?

I did it on my naturally aspirated RT. I didn't notice a difference, some
people say it gets louder. Almost no one says it made their car faster or
more powerful. As for if bad things happen, yes there have been a few
unlucky individual that have reported problems, but they are usually due to
not sealing the hole properly. The problems usually go away when you replace
the bottle. If you want do it go ahead, but don't expect anything from it.

- -Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
    For Sale.. =(
    http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=194310
    http://www.3si.org/member-home/diablocaraudio
1992 Green RT/TT