Team3S
Thursday, June 21
2001
Volume 01 : Number 526
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:51:23 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
At 08:42 20.06.2001 -0500, Morice, Francis wrote:
>I have this
problem with my 96 Stealth RT/TT and it is do to the fact I have
>free
flowing precats and run with a test pipe. Generally I believe
the
>light comes on do to an emissions problem.
Yes sure it does because the ECU measure no difference in between the first
and second O2 sensor and therefore says the cat is gone south. For this one
uses O2 simulators to fool the ECU.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:57:20 -0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
I have done the 60,000 mile timing belt and waterpump change, I did not
do
the spark plugs and wires though as the car ran well as it was.
When I got to work, I shut the car down and let it sit for a few
minutes,
when I started it back up, the light remained on after the
self-test....I'm
curious to see if the light is on when I leave work this
afternoon.
BTW, is the paperclip method (or something similar) listed in the
manual?
Thanks again,
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 09:54
To:
'Mark Elkin'; Team 3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
You've got a second generation car, so I think you can get the error
code by
the "paper clip method" somebody else mentioned. Basically,
you're looking
at a repeating series of long and short flashes or voltages.
You're gonna
need the service manual to decode the thing anyhow. Did
you do the 60K
maintenance including the timing belt replacement and water
pump replacement
and new front seals? Did you replace the spark plugs
and wires yet?
There are lots of things that cause error codes to be generated but
don't
have pronounced or immediate effects on performance. Some error
codes
disappear when the ignition is turned off and restarted. Some are
retained
(saved) until corrected or erased.
Since the light came on when you first started up, the code was
generated
during the startup self test, unless it was really on last night
and you
didn't notice it. When you first turn on the ignition,
all the warning
lights come on. As the system goes through self-tests,
the lights go off
one at a time. During this process, some error codes
can be generated. If
you shut the engine down, wait a bit, then
restart, the next cycle may not
generate the error code.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Elkin
[SMTP:markelkin@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 8:37
AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine
Light
>
> My car has 72,000 miles on it. I have Vineet's cd
manual but it is at
> home...I also have an analog voltmeter so I guess I
will try to use it to
> determine what the code is.
>
> BTW,
the car ran completely fine this morning....no unusual idle or
>
anything.
>
> Thanks for everyone's help.
>
>
Mark
> '96 VR-4
> '97 YZF 600R
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 09:19
> To: 'Mark Elkin'; Team 3S
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
>
>
>
you need to download the diagnostic code from the ECU to determine the
>
cause. You can do this with an analog voltmeter. How many miles on
your
> car? Common codes are for the TPS or the ISC, but there are
lots of
> others.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Mark Elkin [SMTP:markelkin@mindspring.com]
> > Sent:
Wednesday, June 20, 2001 6:58 AM
> > To: Team 3S (E-mail)
> >
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine Light
> >
> > Hello all,
>
>
> > This morning when I started my car ('96 VR-4), my "CHECK
ENGINE" idiot
> > light
> > was on. The light remained
on for my entire 10 minute drive to work.
> >
> > My question
is, what is the usual culprit for the "CHECK ENGINE" light
> to
>
> come on?
> >
> > Mark
> > '96 VR-4
> >
'97 YZF 600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:41:13 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
>BTW, the car ran completely fine this morning....no unusual idle
or
>anything.
If the car is running fine, than this may point to a sensor failure of
either temp, baro or knock sensor.
Sorry, I dunno if the OBDII are also that simple to read the code out of
the ECU like the 1st gen.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:10:48 -0400
From: Jon Apostoles <
jon@ncfpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: MAS
problem?
Hey all,
I have a '91 3000GT Twin Turbo VR-4. Diagnostics report that there is
a
problem with the MAS, but replacing the part does nothing. As soon
as I give
power to the MAS, the car idles low and stalls. The car runs
fine without
the MAS plugged in. Weird electrical things also happen,
like the radio
turning off (although the clock on the display will stay on),
and the lights
on the buttons on the steering wheel for radio control turn
off. I am
wondering if there is some sort of power shortage or
something, because after
driving it around for a whlie, I let the car idle
and then I plugged the MAS
back in. The car ran for a good couple of
minutes before its idle droppedr,
and then finally stalling. Other
miscellaneous problems are that the AERO
light is on, and the boost gauge is
not working properlly (it zero's when I
give power to the car, but once I
start the car, it goes down to -7 and never
builds). Perhaps this is
connected to the MAS problem. Any ideas /
suggestions would help
greatly! Thanks a lot guys
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:16:28 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MAS problem?
The boost gauge calculates boost via the signal from the MAS so if
something
is wrong with that, the boost gauge will not read. You could
get the pin
diagram for the MAS plug and check to see if you have power where
is should
be. I don't have anything here at work but maybe someone else
can tell you
where to check for voltage.
, and the boost gauge is not working properlly (it
> zero's when
I
> give power to the car, but once I start the car, it goes down
to
> -7 and never
> builds). Perhaps this is connected to the
MAS problem. Any ideas /
> suggestions would help greatly!
Thanks a lot guys
>
> Jon
> 91' 3000GT VR4 TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
How weird! I never realized that's how the stock boost gauge works! I
just
knew it wasn't accurate. The aftermarket ones are so simple - they
just
measure vacuum!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Schappell
[SMTP:kevin@schappell.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 9:16
AM
> To:
jon@ncfpc.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: MAS problem?
>
> The boost gauge calculates
boost via the signal from the MAS so if
> something
> is wrong with
that, the boost gauge will not read. You could get the pin
> diagram
for the MAS plug and check to see if you have power where is
>
should
> be. I don't have anything here at work but maybe someone
else can tell
> you
> where to check for voltage.
>
>
>
> Kevin Schappell
>
> , and the boost gauge is not
working properlly (it
> > zero's when I
> > give power to the
car, but once I start the car, it goes down to
> > -7 and never
>
> builds). Perhaps this is connected to the MAS problem. Any
ideas /
> > suggestions would help greatly! Thanks a lot
guys
> >
> > Jon
> > 91' 3000GT VR4 TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:40:18 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!
Thanks I'm going to look at that.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron
[mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:42
AM
To:
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.milSubject:
Re: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!
Hi Victor,
This is a stab in the dark...... A buddy of mine was blowing his fuel
pump
fuse all of the time. Turns out his battery was moving around and
the
negative battery terminal was loose. After fixing that, the fuse
never blew
anymore. So make sure your battery is tight and the terminals are
tight
too.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:58:28 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
AVC-R - 60% start duty??
Re-sending this - I still need help here, thanks!
Recently, I rewired my AVC-R to the RPM signal (white wire off
ECM
connector, right?!) since the previous owner had it hardwired to
the
IDC. So, for the first time I'm going through the learn
process.
Here's what I've done:
Set up gear judge and car select.
Set boost to 1.00 bar, DC to
40%.
NE point 2500-6500 (methinks)
Learn gear on for 2nd - 5th
Feedback
9 7 5 3 3
Start duty for 1st 50%, all others 0%
Ok, first of all, the boost in 2nd & 3rd was oscillating, so I set
the
feedbacks down to: 9 6 4 2 2. After turning the car off once,
they
seem smooth now.
Then, I was only getting 10psi of boost. So I had to turn it all
the
way up to 60% Duty to get 14-15psi! What am I doing wrong
here?
Also, can I change settings 'on the fly,' or do you have to change
them,
turn the car off, then restart? (like Windows)
And, won't the
controller change the start duties for each gear by
itself?
Thanks so much!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
WITH 6-SPEED
TRANNY =)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:30:16 -0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
Hi all,
a while back i asked your advise on why my vr4 is failing emmissions in
california. well i found the failure report and everything is good except HC
(hydrocarbons). the allowable emmissions at idle are about 120 (ppm?) and
mine were 600 approx and the emmissions at 2500rpm were 800 approx
(allowable 160approx) Since then i have changed the plugs which looked
good
but old (eroded). Would the HC failure point to the cataltic
convertor or
would the plugs be enough to cause the problem?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:02:42 -0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: spark interest in a spark plug cover plate
Is anyone interested in a spark plug cover plate? I have looked for a
few
on the net only to find that they want 85.00 to 100.00 for this useless
but
attractive dress-up. I have asked this board before about air vent
covers
and got a good response but I just cant bring myself to yank out my
dash
board and the titanium overlays I made are to hard to duplicate for the
masses. But here is the next thing for any one interested. A solid aluminum
plate with either a mitsu triangle or ram about 1/8th deep in it. I am
making one (or going to make one) it will be cnc machined with a polishable
finish on top (you polish, brush, or anodize it) but smooth enough it
wouldn't take 6 weeks to get that shine on it. I'm sure as many of you know
with cnc machines is that if you make one its dumb not to make 50 or even
100. If I get enough interest then I'll sell them to members for 50.00
Bob k.
93' R/T FIPK
(supporting wife)
------------------------------
The only good reason is less vibration from such a LONG
shaft..period.
Whats wrong with yours that it cant be fixed?
On Tue, 19 Jun 2001, Bill Miller wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I am wondering if I can get some
advise/opinions on replacing my drive shaft. My dealer wants to
> charge
me $1800 (CAD$) for the part plus labour to install it. I have heard about a
replacement
> single piece drive shaft (not the Carbon fiber one) for
around $800 (US or $1400 CAD) and was
> wondering if there are any
problems that anyone can think of if I was serious about one of these.
>
> My car is a 91 and it's getting a little "loose" (squeaking around the
rear hatch) so I'm curious
> about the single piece unit rubbing on the
underside of the car if the chassis decides to bend a
> little (depending
on the clearance tolerances). I'm told the only good reason to have a 2/3 piece
> DS is because of chassis flex. Noone else I know can think of a good
reason for the multiple piece
> unit that doesn't have individual parts
replacable (except to screw the customer with high
> replacement part
costs!).
>
> I'm a little strapped for cash so I would be
interested in any cheap alternatives anyone can come
> up with.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bill
> 91 TT "Old
Red"
> Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
------------------------------
$50 seems reasonable for this sort of thing.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Koch
[SMTP:eK2mfg@foxinternet.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 11:03
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: spark interest in a spark plug cover plate
>
> Is
anyone interested in a spark plug cover plate? I have looked for a
few
>
> on the net only to find that they want 85.00 to 100.00 for
this useless
> but
> attractive dress-up. I have asked this board
before about air vent covers
> and got a good response but I just cant
bring myself to yank out my dash
> board and the titanium overlays I made
are to hard to duplicate for the
> masses. But here is the next thing for
any one interested. A solid
> aluminum
> plate with either a mitsu
triangle or ram about 1/8th deep in it. I am
> making one (or going to
make one) it will be cnc machined with a
> polishable
> finish on
top (you polish, brush, or anodize it) but smooth enough it
>
wouldn't take 6 weeks to get that shine on it. I'm sure as many of you
>
know
> with cnc machines is that if you make one its dumb not to make 50
or even
> 100. If I get enough interest then I'll sell them to members
for 50.00
>
> Bob k.
> 93' R/T FIPK
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:20:26 -0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Check Engine Light
What about simplifying even more and just say ... a bad sensor. In
most modern
cars there are dozens of sensors monitoring all of the car's
operation ....
whenever the computer gets an out of tolerance reading on one
of the sensors it
lights the check engine light and takes reading the code to
know exactly what
has failed. Most of the time a bad sensor will not
affect the immediate
operation of the car (as in your case), but it should be
checked out and
replaced as soon as possible. On occasion a bad sensor
can adversely affect the
car's performance.
Greg
Moore Mr Dennis W Jr wrote:
> I've never had such a problem with my Stealth, but on every other car
I've
> owned the two most common causes are bad oxygen sensor or a bad
temperature
> sensor. But your problem may be none of the
above. Do you have the service
> manuals? They will help
answer your question in more detail.
>
> That said, I have a
question for the group: can you use the "paper clip
> decoder" on our
cars? On my GM cars, jumpering two pins on a connector
> under the
dash would cause the "C/E" light to flash the error code the
> computer
was reporting. Does this work on ours?
>
>
Thanks.
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
> 128,000
miles, only 2 unscheduled maintenance events!!!
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Mark Elkin [mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 7:58 AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
>
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine Light
>
> Hello all,
>
>
This morning when I started my car ('96 VR-4), my "CHECK ENGINE" idiot
light
> was on. The light remained on for my entire 10 minute drive
to work.
>
> My question is, what is the usual culprit for the
"CHECK ENGINE" light to
> come on?
>
> Mark
> '96
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:49:31 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!
It does not sound possible to trouble shoot this problem without a
factory
wiring diagram. Do you have one?
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:42:32 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: spark interest in a spark plug cover plate
for more details. I do not have a stock of the plates but make them
when
time allows. Right now I am not taking orders but keep an eye out
on the
3SI board for future announcements.
Kevin Schappell
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:58:28 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!
Yes I do, it helps a lot, thanks.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew D. Woll
[mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 12:50 PM
To:
Berrios, Victor L;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!
It does not sound possible to trouble shoot this problem without a
factory
wiring diagram. Do you have one?
Andy
------------------------------
I have one of Kevin's spark plug covers. It is the one-of-a-kind
custom plate in the following picture (thanks, Bowden for the pic). This
doesn't show the awesome job on the letters or the red paint down in the letters
but it is well worth the price as I get copmliments all the time on it.
Thanks, Kevin.
Note: Custom plates might not be available and/or the same price as
previously advertised.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with custom spark plug cover
------------------------------
These are cool, but don't say VR4!
I would rather have triple
diamonds!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Schappell
[SMTP:kevin@schappell.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 11:43
AM
> To: Robert Koch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: spark interest in a spark plug cover plate
>
>
I have been making them for 2 years.... $45 which includes shipping and
>
bolts. Engraved 3000GT or Stealth and made from aluminum. Check
out
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=df6583b596c648a2397e6bb4775bd656&t>
hreadid=32128
>
> for more details. I do not have a stock of
the plates but make them when
> time allows. Right now I am not
taking orders but keep an eye out on the
> 3SI board for future
announcements.
>
> Kevin Schappell
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:01:38 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: parts for sale
I was cleaning up my basement, and found some parts that I no longer
need.
I was going to put them on ebay, but decided to give the guys in the
group
first chance.
If anyone is interested, make me an offer. Thanks
4-Chrome Tips from stock exhaust (I am not sure what years this will
fit,
but they came off of my old '96 3000GT DOHC)
92-96 Service Manual Set
Parts from 1997 VR-4
- -------------------------------
Stock F&R
Rotors (not warped) (due the the high weight, I do not know how to
ship
these)
I have a set of Red headlights that I was going to paint the same color
as
my car. Does anyone know how I can open them up to paint them
? Anyone
want to trade for a set of metallic black ?
If I come up with anything else, I will let you know. Thanks
all
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:05:46 -0400
From: Jon Apostoles <
jon@ncfpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: MAS
Info
Hey guys,
How does the MAS affect gas mileage? For example, if I were to run
the car
with the MAS unplugged and then with it plugged in, what would be
the
differences?
Thanks,
--Jon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:58:06 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
MAS Info
In one case the car would run and in the other case the car wouldn't
run.
Jim
berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jon Apostoles <
jon@ncfpc.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 20, 2001 2:05 PM
Subject: Team3S: MAS Info
> Hey guys,
>
> How does the MAS affect gas
mileage? For example, if I were to run the car
> with the MAS
unplugged and then with it plugged in, what would be the
>
differences?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Jon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:07:05 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: where to get metal or plastic for custom spark plug cover
Since I can't seem to locate any custom spark plug covers for my 1997
VR-4,
to replace the stock plastic part, I am looking to make my own.
Does anyone know where I can get small pieces of aluminum or plastic to
do
this ?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:44:41 -0400
From: Jon Apostoles <
jon@ncfpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: MAS
Info
Jim,
You sure? I drove mine from NH to PA without it plugged in in
a bind ;-)
It made it the entire trip with no problems. The MAS
is IN but not plugged
in... as far as electrical goes I mean.
-- Jon
On Wednesday 20 June 2001 05:57 pm, Jim Berry wrote:
> In one case
the car would run and in the other case the car wouldn't
run.
>
> Jim
berry
> ===============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Jon Apostoles <
jon@ncfpc.com>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 2:05 PM
> Subject: Team3S: MAS
Info
>
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > How does the MAS
affect gas mileage? For example, if I were to run the
> > car
with the MAS unplugged and then with it plugged in, what would be the
>
> differences?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
--Jon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:47:25 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MAS Info
Wouldn't run real well at all, if at all. The best way to get good
mileage is to
ensure your tires are properly inflated and aligned, your car
is running well
(maintenance done), you shift at the lowest rpms (w/o getting
too low), and keep speeds
as low as possible on the highways.
Best of luck
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Jon Apostoles wrote:
> Hey
guys,
>
> How does
the MAS affect gas mileage? For example, if I were to run the car
>
with the MAS unplugged and then with it plugged in, what would be the
>
differences?
>
>
Thanks,
>
>
--Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:46:39 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
MAS Info
It probably has some sort of default fuel map it uses and relies on the
info. from
the O2 sensors but I would think the performance and drivability
would be
lousy at best.
The signal from the MAS is how the computer
determins how much air the engine
requires and in turn provides fuel and
timing advance information to allow it to
run at an optimum
level.
Jim Berry
===============================================
> Jim,
> You sure? I drove mine from NH to PA without it
plugged in in a bind ;-)
> It made it the entire trip with no
problems. The MAS is IN but not plugged
> in... as far as
electrical goes I mean.
>
> -- Jon
>
> On Wednesday 20
June 2001 05:57 pm, Jim Berry wrote:
> > In one case the car would run
and in the other case the car wouldn't run.
> >
>
> Jim berry
> >
===============================================
> > ----- Original
Message -----
> > From: Jon Apostoles <
jon@ncfpc.com>
> > To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 2:05 PM
> > Subject: Team3S: MAS
Info
> >
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> >
> How does the MAS affect gas mileage? For example, if I were to run
the
> > > car with the MAS unplugged and then with it plugged in,
what would be the
> > > differences?
> > >
> >
> Thanks,
> > >
> > > --Jon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 23:16:39 -0400
From: "Bill Miller" <
millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: DS Dilemma
Beats me. The car has a rather nasty vibration at around 100 km/h and the
dealer says that it
should be replaced. I'm told by them that it doesn't
come in parts, only the whole thing. These
guys have always been upfront
with me in the past, so I haven't doubted them.
Bill
On 20 Jun 2001, at 9:19, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> The only good reason is less vibration from such a LONG
shaft..period.
>
> Whats wrong with yours that it cant be
fixed?
>
> On Tue, 19 Jun 2001, Bill Miller wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
> >
> > I am wondering if I can get some
advise/opinions on replacing my drive shaft. My dealer wants to
> >
charge me $1800 (CAD$) for the part plus labour to install it. I have heard
about a replacement
> > single piece drive shaft (not the Carbon fiber
one) for around $800 (US or $1400 CAD) and was
> > wondering if there
are any problems that anyone can think of if I was serious about one of these.
> >
> > My car is a 91 and it's getting a little "loose"
(squeaking around the rear hatch) so I'm curious
> > about the single
piece unit rubbing on the underside of the car if the chassis decides to bend a
> > little (depending on the clearance tolerances). I'm told the only
good reason to have a 2/3 piece
> > DS is because of chassis flex.
Noone else I know can think of a good reason for the multiple piece
>
> unit that doesn't have individual parts replacable (except to screw the
customer with high
> > replacement part costs!).
> >
>
> I'm a little strapped for cash so I would be interested in any cheap
alternatives anyone can come
> > up with.
> >
> >
Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Bill
> > 91 TT "Old
Red"
> > Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
> ---
> Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> California, USA
>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/LagunaSeca/mrs-photo.jpg>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/LagunaSeca/mrs-photo2.jpg
------------------------------
Open the Yellow Pages, find a local driveshaft shop..and they will
be
happy to replace your OEM sealed U-joints with standard servicable
ones.
On Wed, 20 Jun 2001, Bill Miller wrote:
> Beats me. The car has a rather nasty vibration at around 100 km/h and
the dealer says that it
> should be replaced. I'm told by them that it
doesn't come in parts, only the whole thing. These
> guys have always
been upfront with me in the past, so I haven't doubted them.
>
>
Bill
>
> On 20 Jun 2001, at 9:19, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> > The only good reason is less vibration from such a LONG
shaft..period.
> >
> > Whats wrong with yours that it cant be
fixed?
> >
> > On Tue, 19 Jun 2001, Bill Miller
wrote:
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> >
> I am wondering if I can get some advise/opinions on replacing my drive
shaft. My dealer wants to
> > > charge me $1800 (CAD$) for the part
plus labour to install it. I have heard about a replacement
> > >
single piece drive shaft (not the Carbon fiber one) for around $800 (US or $1400
CAD) and was
> > > wondering if there are any problems that anyone
can think of if I was serious about one of these.
> > >
>
> > My car is a 91 and it's getting a little "loose" (squeaking around the
rear hatch) so I'm curious
> > > about the single piece unit
rubbing on the underside of the car if the chassis decides to bend a
>
> > little (depending on the clearance tolerances). I'm told the only good
reason to have a 2/3 piece
> > > DS is because of chassis flex.
Noone else I know can think of a good reason for the multiple piece
>
> > unit that doesn't have individual parts replacable (except to screw
the customer with high
> > > replacement part costs!).
> >
>
> > > I'm a little strapped for cash so I would be interested
in any cheap alternatives anyone can come
> > > up with.
>
> >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > >
> >
> Bill
> > > 91 TT "Old Red"
> > > Humpty Dumpty was
pushed...
You must be fast, coz I was haulin' ass when I passed you..
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 01:13:25 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
BOV adjust
I have a HKS SSBOV on my car, and I think it is releasing too early.
How
do I set the screw on the back?
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 01:14:13 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Strut bar - need alignment?
If I install a Cusco Strut Bar in the rear, do I need to have
an
alignment etc?
Thanks
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 07:16:41 EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: DiabloCarAudio.com is up!!! kinda....
www.DiabloCarAudio.comWell for
now it's not a car audio only store. I sell random stuff now and
eventually I'll get the real Car Audio and 3/S performance shop up.
Here are a few good deals:
BRAND NEW UNIDEN ALL BAND RADAR DETECTOR
LRD767. - $92.80
This Uniden has 360° Laser/L2/L3/All Band Radar Detection
with an Electronic
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detecting X, K, KA
SuperWideband, SWS, Laser, Ultralyte Laser (L2), and now
the latest Pro L3
laser. The electronic compass is built right in to keep
you on target.
BRAND NEW PIONEER DEH-P6300 50Wx4 CAR CD PLAYER. - $251.12
The
Pioneer DEH-P6300 features a Flap Face, Detachable Face, Pop-up Rotary
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AGC (Automatic Gain Control), CD, CD Text, Track Scan, Pause, Repeat, Random
Play, Playback Compatible with Digital Audio CD-R (when disc is finalized),
CD-R/CD-W Skip Function, MOSFET 50x4 - 4-Channel High Power, Sub-Out LPF
(50/80/125Hz, -18dB/Oct.), HPF Crossover, with Sub-Out Level (-12dB to
+12dB)
and Phase Control.
BRAND NEW PIONEER PREMIER 6X9 3-WAY SPEAKER TS-939. - $62.23
This
speaker features Foamed IMPP (Injection Molded Polypropylene) Rigiliteâ„¢
Curved Composite Cone (Gold) for smoother response with deeper bass. In
addition to Cloth Surround, you get a 2-5/8 inch Cone Midrange with
Strontium
Magnet featuring high sensitivity. You also get a 3/4 inch dome
tweeter. A
large diameter damper for rich bass, Kapton Voice Coil Bobbin
provides high
power handling capabilities. And with this speaker you get
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depth for wider installation coverage.
BRAND NEW POWER TO GO 175 WATT POWER INVERTER. - $18.56
This POWERTOGO
features a Max Continous Power of 175 watts, a Surge
Capability (Peak Power)
of 400 watts, Optimum efficiency up to 90%, No Load
Current Draw: <0.1A,
Input Voltage Range: 10-15 VDC.
BRAND NEW POWER TO GO 2 IN 1 12-VOLT PORT POWER STATION. - $41.49
Take
along the comforts of home when you`re on the road. This great power
station
features a high output 7 amp/hour battery, AC/DC charging cords, and
an LED
battery level indicator.
AVITAL DIABLO 2 CAR SECURITY/ALARM - CLIFFORD
Your price: $43.68
Retail value: $69
AVITAL HURRICANE 2 CAR ALARM BY CLIFFORD NEW!
Your price: $49.13
Retail value: $79
AVITAL PHOENIX 2 CAR ALARM BY
CLIFFORD **NEW*
Your price: $56.77
Retail value: $89
ALPINE CDA-7863 60Wx4 CAR CD/CD-R PLAYER NEW!
Your price:
$288.76
Retail value: $499
ALPINE
CDM-7857 40Wx4 CAR CD/CD-R PLAYER NEW!
Your price: $187.18
Retail
value: $329
ALPINE CDM-7861 45Wx4 CAR CD/CD-R PLAYER
NEW!
Your price: $219.30
Retail value: $399
BAZOOKA 10" DUAL VOICE PASSIVE BASS RS104DV**
Your price: $171.41
Retail value: $280
BAZOOKA 8" PASSIVE BASS TUBE EL804 BRAND NEW!
Your price:
$108.09
Retail value: $178
BAZOOKA RS10A
AMPLIFIED 10 INCH BASS TUBE NEW
Your price: $262.04
Retail
value: $489
BAZOOKA RS6A 6.5 INCH AMPLIFIED BASS TUBE NEW
Your price: $234.75
Retail value: $389
BAZOOKA RS8A 8 INCH AMPLIFIED BASS TUBE NEW!!
Your price:
$256.59
Retail value: $429
KENWOOD 10
INCH 300W SUBWOOFER KSC-WA100 NEW!
Your price: $150.68
Retail value: $250
PIONEER 10 INCH SUBWOOFER TS-W253F
NEW!
Your price: $43.68
Retail value: $79
PIONEER CAR SUB WOOFER TS-W203F BRAND NEW
Your price: $32.75
Retail value: $89
PIONEER TS-W1040DVC 10-IN SUBWOOFER NEW
Your price: $114.64
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PIONEER TS-W2541DVC 10"
700WATT SUBWOOFER NEW
Your price: $98.27
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PIONEER TS-W303DVC 500WATTS CAR SUBWOOFER NEW
Your price: $55.68
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Your price:
$106.97
Retail value: $230
Check out the clearance
section for more great deals!
Thanks,
- -Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl
White RT/NA
For Sale.. =(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=194310
http://www.3si.org/member-home/diablocaraudio1992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Porterfield Custom Stainless Steel Brake
Lines
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
Hard-Wired Cobra Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
System
Pioneer DEH-P8000R
PowerAcoustik 1600 Watt Amp
Power Precision 200 Watt
Amp
Dual Xtant 10" 500 Watt
Subs
1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor
3Si1127
Team3S
& StarNet
Diablo Car Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:48:32 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Project update (was: she's alive)
I just find some time last weekend and fixed (or at least tried) the
problems I had when I first started her up.
1) timing belt
The engine sounded horrible and I thought of the timing
belt being skipped
one teeth on the crank. I was familiar with the stock
pulley but not with
the underdrive one I now have on the car so I was not
sure. Thanks to Mark
Wendlandt I verified the correct line-up and everythign
was fine. It was
complicated to see as the marks on the cover are not well
visible and I did
the verification with a digicam (don't laugh).
2) Oil leak at the rear bank
Oil was pushed out somewhere o nthe rear
bank and leaked onto the heat
shield above the rear exhaust manifold. The
fume and smell made me really
worry and I had the fire extinguisher by hand.
I finally too kthe valve
covers off again and found out that I did not mount
the rear gasket
properly. I remember that I installed it before everything
was done in teh
rear but had to take it off again. Afterwards it's not teh
easist thing to
keep the gasket in place when reinstalling it. Problem was
then solved easily.
3) Custom IC-piping for GT368s turbos
The GT368 turbos do have a larger
compressor outlet and therefore also need
larger IC pipings. I got this from
an old GT ALlely FMIC kit I had lying
around for years now and decided to
use a reducer to go with the stock IC
for now (the Alamos are in the work
right now, larger inlet needed)
Unfortunately, the pipe comming from the
rear turbo interfered with the
hood and I had no solution for this. I
finnaly cut the pipe, turned it
about 30° and used silicon hose and clamps
to reconnect the parts. I
thought to temporary using this but it looks very
professionel and works
very good :)
Under the line... she runs now without any problem :) Ticking went away (or
to a normal level) after the lifters got their oil. BTW, I removed one
lifter and compared them with the second gen lifters ... and found no
difference at all. Same size of all openings and dimensions. I therefore
let the 1st gen lifters in teh heads and tehy do not tick anymore now
:)
Tuning in the ARC is pretty complicated now. The heads became a heavy
porting on the outlet side and got gasket matched on the intake including
air flow optimizing. The valve seats became a 3 angle job and some other
parts have been touched. All this stuff together causes a heavy difference
and requires more fine tuning than expected. Of course the ECU relearns and
adapts over the time and I will see how it works out when I can hit the
road.
On July 4th Oleg our friend from Latvia comes down with his 95'3000GT and
we will both go to a newer dyno shop who has a special designed fresh-air
fan for turbo cars. I hope to get good results out of it as well as from
Olegs car (also heavily tuned !)... so stay tuned for more :)
------------------------------
Anytime I do anything to the suspension, like remove and reinstall struts,
I
get a 4 wheell alignment. I would imagine that the strut bar could
affect
the alighnment.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Stanton
[SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 12:14 AM
>
To: Team3S Stealth
> Subject: Team3S: Strut bar - need alignment?
>
> If I install a Cusco Strut Bar in the rear, do I need to have
an
> alignment etc?
> Thanks
> Ken
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 07:12:58 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Strut bar - need alignment?
The strut bar doesn't require the removal of any pieces parts --- It just
bolts
on the top of the strut tower. Ergo ---- no alignment
required.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
> Anytime I do anything to the suspension, like remove and reinstall
struts, I
> get a 4 wheell alignment. I would imagine that the strut
bar could affect
> the alighnment.
>
> Chuck
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ken Stanton
[SMTP:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 12:14
AM
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1 #526
*********************
