Team3S
Wednesday, June 20
2001 Volume 01
: Number
525
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jun 2001 10:43:56 -0400
From: <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What's the usual break in period/procedure for new turbos.
I just
installed DR500s' on my VR-4 this past weekend.
Just wondering if they
how they need to be broken in and for how long.
Thanks in
advance,
Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 09:22:05
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Anti-sway bar Suppliers
Jeff,
My experience with this
equipment was that I added the Cusco strut
tower bar and larger rear
anti-sway bar first.
This took me from the understeer condition I was
experiencing to an
oversteer situation.
With the installation of the
larger front anti-sway bar it is like
driving a go-cart without the harsh
suspension.
It has a very neutral handling except for the tires. I made
the
mistake of going with the Nitto 555 extremes instead of the
Pirelli
P-Zero's I normally use. I was lured by a lower price and their
popularity.
The Nittos "fall" out from under me on hard cornering. I love
to
drive the mountain curves, the Pirellis do it better but at a higher
price
by about 33%.
Jeff, I will be the first to admit that my driving is
not sane.
Any of you that would like to drive my car at the Colorado
gathering
are welcome to do so. I fact I wish some of you would so I
could
have your feed back to compare with my
experience/opinions.
Jim
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 7:34
AM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Anti-sway bar Suppliers
Join the amazed crowd, Wayne. Below
is a post of mine from over one
year ago that garnered no significant
responses. One thing to
remember is that a stronger front bar (and MUCH
stronger [over
twice!] in the case of Saner's front bar) will likely
increase
understeer. This is something the racers in the group probably do
NOT
want more of (assuming they are striving for balanced handling
with
maybe just a very little understeer at the limits). IMHO, the
stock
3S car is already setup (especially with slightly stiffer and
shorter
aftermarket springs) for almost any sane street driving.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: "Team
3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet"
<
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Monday,
March 20, 2000 4:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: Addco anti-sway bars
[Note:
message posted to both Team3S and Starnet lists]
If this is an old topic I
apologize. I have not yet made it
through all the old posts.
Does
anyone have any experience or opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on
our cars? Addco front bar is 1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as
a 54% increase in stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar is 0.875"
(stock is 0.86"),
for a 7% increase in stiffness.
1)
understeer/oversteer. I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar
may increase understeer, something we don't need
more of. And that the rear
bar may increase oversteer slightly
but would it be enough to balance the
stronger front bar?
2) lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with
stock
suspension, with aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs
and bars?
3) bar dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the
other
dimensions the same and would any modification be required to
mount
the bars? Other dimensional changes would also affect
overall bar
stiffness.
4) Experiences. Anyone care to mention their experiences
with
this add-on?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 18, 2001 7:43 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Anti-sway bar
Suppliers
I'm amazed at how many people want to talk about FM modulators
when a
post like this comes along. Maybe I've been out of the loop, but
the
last i heard, there were absolutely no sway bars available for
our
cars (probably because of the labor involved in installing them)
Now
this.....THIS IS FANTASTIC. Has anybody put these to use, are they
as
good as the ST sway bars for other cars? It looks like a group buy
is
in order....
Wayne
>I am sorry to spam the list but I
promised one of you this
>information and I deleted his
E-mail.
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Front
anti-sway bar from Saner Performance at 561-848-1616 talk to
>John.
$195.00
>Stock is .95, Saner's is 1.125 inch.
>Rear anti-sway bar
form Quickor Suspension at 503-654- 2175 talk to
>Glen.
$169.00
>Stock is .86, Quickor's is 1.00 inch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 09:55:45
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Eric Gross
Eric Gross,
Please contact me about the group
buy for the front strut tower bar
from Chris Thorne.
W
303-702-4421 or H 303-823-6191
Or give me your phone number and I
will call you.
Jim Floyd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 12:24:18
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: alloy wheel properties
Alloy wheel properties:
was(really,
really, stupid question)
I could not find specific references to aluminum
alloys in wheels,
but as you can see below, aluminum alloys can have
significant
ammounts of 'ferrous' or magnetic materials.
http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MAC702&group=General Some
of the alloys listed Fe content of 30%, so the entire wheel may be
somewhat
magnetic.
Composition:
Component Wt. %
Ag 0.4 -
1 Al 94 Cu 4 - 5.2 Fe Max 0.15 Mg 0.15 - 0.55 Mn
0.2 - 0.5
Si Max 0.1 Ti 0.15 -
0.35
Composition:
Component Wt. %
Al 95 Cr 0.2 -
0.4 Cu Max 0.2 Fe Max 0.8 Mg 1.4 - 1.8 Mn 0.4 - 0.6
Si Max 0.2 Ti Max 0.25 Zn 2.7 - 3.3
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
[mailto:gphilip@umich.edu]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 6:45 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: really, really, stupid question
Your wheels are made of an
aluminum alloy. They are chrome coated. Some
companies chrome steel wheels
but their wheels are usually too heavy. 100%
chrome wheels do not exist,
they will also be heavy and probably cost more
than the car.
Chrome
coating is usually done using electrolysis. I have no clue how they
apply
chrome on plastic, I am not sure if that is even chrome. Chrome is
magnetic,
aluminum is not, check with your magnet inside of the rim, away
from the
spokes where there is in no chrome.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 09:47:11
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Low Speed Knock and Cool cooling mods
> Side Note: Raising the
rear of the hood dramatically lowers
> the engine compartment
temps. It takes about 1/2 an hour to do,
> and is a totally
reversible mod.
So how did you raise the rear of the hood?
Washers under the hinges?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:08:51
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
Finding the Pioneer shouldnt be too difficult as these CD changers
also came
in BMW's.. And no, you will not lose steering wheel controls..
You usually
only run into problems changing your head unit... If you ever
plan on
changing your head unit, you might as well forget about the Pioneer
and
change your whole system, as you must buy a very old Pioneer head unit
to run
the CD changer and it is even more difficult to find such an
old
stereo.. There was talk of Pioneer making an adapter that would
allow new
head units to function with the old changer but nothing yet..
I fought for
a few years to keep my system stock with a couple extra speakers
as it is
possible to buy a better amplifier that will work with the stock
system, but
I lost my fight and my steering wheel controls when the factory
head Unit
decided to forget its security code... Good
Luck....
Scott
94 VR4
K&N FIPK, Borla Cat-Back,Apexi
AVC-R
GreddyS-Type BOV
and FOR MERRIT->.. Alpine head unit
&12CD changer
2 Extant amplifiers and Boston Pro Component Mids and
Hi's
Kicker Solo-Baric 10" subwoofer...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:11:27
-0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: alloy wheel properties
Kurt, that's .15 % not 15% You will
not feel a pull with a magnet on
aluminum wheels. Most aluminum wheels
are made (I believe) from A356-T6
using the low pressure permanent mold
process. The owner of the company I
work for started the business by
making his own set of wheels for his Datsun
240Z race car. He decided
to move out of the wheel business due to
liability or I would be
designing/selling wheels today :-)
Kevin Schappell
V.P. of
Engineering/Marketing
Trega Corporation
625 Valley Rd.
Hamburg, PA
19526
1-800-356-3254
610-562-5558 (VOICE)
610-562-5990 (FAX)
http://www.tregacorp.comhttp://kevin.schappell.com>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Zobel, Kurt
> Sent:
Tuesday, June 19, 2001 12:24 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: alloy wheel properties
>
> Alloy wheel
properties:
> was(really, really, stupid question)
>
> I could
not find specific references to aluminum alloys in wheels,
> but as you
can see below, aluminum alloys can have significant
> ammounts of
'ferrous' or magnetic materials.
>
http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MAC702&group=General>
>
Some of the alloys listed Fe content of 30%, so the entire wheel may be
>
somewhat magnetic.
>
> Composition:
> Component Wt. %
>
Ag 0.4 - 1 Al 94 Cu 4 - 5.2 Fe Max 0.15 Mg 0.15 -
0.55 Mn 0.2 - 0.5
> Si Max 0.1 Ti 0.15 -
0.35
>
>
> Composition:
> Component Wt. %
> Al
95 Cr 0.2 - 0.4 Cu Max 0.2 Fe Max 0.8 Mg 1.4 - 1.8
Mn 0.4 - 0.6
> Si Max 0.2 Ti Max 0.25 Zn 2.7 -
3.3
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Philip V. Glazatov [mailto:gphilip@umich.edu]
> Sent: Monday, June
18, 2001 6:45 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: really, really, stupid question
>
>
>
Your wheels are made of an aluminum alloy. They are chrome coated. Some
>
companies chrome steel wheels but their wheels are usually too
> heavy.
100%
> chrome wheels do not exist, they will also be heavy and
probably
> cost more
> than the car.
>
> Chrome coating
is usually done using electrolysis. I have no clue
> how they
>
apply chrome on plastic, I am not sure if that is even chrome. Chrome is
>
magnetic, aluminum is not, check with your magnet inside of the rim,
away
> from the spokes where there is in no chrome.
>
>
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:15:59
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
+> Finding the
Pioneer shouldnt be too difficult as these CD changers
+> also came in
BMW's.. And no, you will not lose steering wheel controls..
+> You usually
only run into problems changing your head unit... If you
ever
<snip>
specifically the E30 3 series as far as I
know. BMW used several brands
and models in different series
cars. ONLY the Pioneer CDX-M30 will work
in the 3S.
I
never said you'd lose the steering wheel control with an
OEM/Pioneer
changer. I happen to have a Pioneer CDX-M30 in my VR4 that
I bought off
Ebay as I suggested. Works
perfectly.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:28:50
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: question on 1st gen BOV and adapter
I have been messing with the
Greddy BOV that I bought a few months ago, and
am not happy with it
interfering with the shift linkage on my 1997 VR-4.
I have heard that I
could use a 1st gen BOV, and that I would also need an
adapter of some
sort.
Is this true ? Would it fit better than the Greddy
?
Will it get rid of the whistling and honking caused by my stock BOV
?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:24:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Got Brakes??
Well..if im doing 90mph and the turn in NO way
will support over 30mph to
even consider entering it..I cant use trail
braking to enter it at
40..because I'll miss the entry. I still gotta
brake down.
??
On Tue, 19 Jun 2001, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
> But if you're going to trail brake, you don't have to brake
as much to make
> the turnin, because you are going to enter at a higher
speed and continue to
> brake to the apex.
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 4:02
PM
> > To: Willis, Charles E.
> > Cc: 3000GT
> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Got Brakes??
> >
> > No..you still have
to brake a certain amount of speed to even get INTO
> > that turn..then
trail braking. Yes?
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/LagunaSeca/mrs-photo.jpghttp://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/LagunaSeca/mrs-photo2.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 14:50:30
-0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
alloy wheel properties
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin
Schappell [SMTP:kevin@schappell.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 1:11
PM
To: Zobel, Kurt;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: alloy wheel properties
Kurt, that's .15 % not 15% You
will not feel a pull with a magnet
on
aluminum wheels. Most aluminum
wheels are made (I believe) from
A356-T6
using the low pressure permanent
mold process. The owner of the
company I
work for started the
business by making his own set of wheels for
his Datsun
240Z race
car. He decided to move out of the wheel business due to
liability or I
would be designing/selling wheels today :-)
Kevin
Schappell
V.P. of Engineering/Marketing
Trega Corporation
625 Valley
Rd.
Hamburg, PA 19526
1-800-356-3254
610-562-5558
(VOICE)
610-562-5990 (FAX)
http://www.tregacorp.comhttp://kevin.schappell.comSo
what's the verdict? Would it be worth while for me to go out and
spend
$900 on a set of good aluminum wheels to save weight (I put a low
value on
looks and a high value on performance). I do understand that
decreasing
the wheel weight is a triple threat. The dead weight decreases,
the
reciprocating weight decreases and the unsprung (sp?) weight decreases.
If
I'm looking at 20 pounds per wheel then I would consider it but a pound
or
two? Probably not.
Michael Donnelly
'94 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 15:07:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Got Brakes??
Then please explain the reason for trailbraking,
if you already brake
sufficiently for turn in? I can't see how it helps
do anything but reduce
cornering grip.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 1:25
PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: 3000GT
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Got Brakes??
>
> Well..if im doing 90mph and the turn in NO
way will support over 30mph to
> even consider entering it..I cant use
trail braking to enter it at
> 40..because I'll miss the entry. I
still gotta brake down.
>
> ??
>
> On Tue, 19 Jun
2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
> > But if you're going to
trail brake, you don't have to brake as much to
> make
> > the
turnin, because you are going to enter at a higher speed and
> continue
to
> > brake to the apex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 15:09:26
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: alloy wheel properties
Volk Racing TE-37 ...
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Donnelly, Michael
[mailto:DonnellM@ctc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 11:51 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: alloy wheel properties
So what's the verdict? Would
it be worth while for me to go out and
spend $900 on a set of good aluminum
wheels to save weight (I put a low
value on looks and a high value on
performance). I do understand that
decreasing the wheel weight is a
triple threat. The dead weight decreases,
the reciprocating weight
decreases and the unsprung (sp?) weight decreases.
If I'm looking at 20
pounds per wheel then I would consider it but a pound
or two? Probably
not.
Michael Donnelly
'94 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:58:15
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED HELP!!! Car won't start again
Hi Folks,
My '91
VR4 in not starting again. After sitting in the 95 degree F sun for
a
few hours this afternoon, I started my car. It ran for 15-20
seconds,
then the engine died. It wouldn't start again although the
starter cranks
fine and the battery seems strong. Some may remember
that I had the same
problem last November. I had cleaned the relays
inside my aftermarket alarm
and I thought that had solved the problem.
The car ran fine for the last 6
months. Anyway, here is what I've done
so far today:
1) Swapped the ECU for the unit in my friend's '92
VR4.
2) Replaced a relay which I believe is the "ignition kill" relay to
my
aftermarket alarm. However, I am now suspect that this is really the
relay
to flash the lights during an alarm since when I connected the lead to
the
normally closed lead, the dash and running lights came on.
3) Verified
that the relay solenoids inside the aftermarket alarm are not
"frozen".
4)
Unplugged my HKS Turbo Timer.
5) Unplugged all wires from my aftermarket
alarm, but then the starter
wouldn't turn.
6) I can hear the fuel pump
when I first turn on the ignition. I can also
smell fuel after the
engine cranks for a 10 seconds or so.
Car still won't start. I have
no info on the Turbo Timer (it was installed
when I bought the car). If
I unplug the unit from the harness, do I need to
jump some wires?
(Also, the gray wire is unconnected. Can someone tell me
what it is
for?) Are there any ignition components that tend to fail, crank
or cam
sensors?
All help and suggestions are highly welcome. Thanks in
advance,
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 23:05:30
-0400
From: "Bill Miller" <
millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Team3S:
DS Dilemma
Hi All,
I am wondering if I can get some
advise/opinions on replacing my drive shaft. My dealer wants to
charge me
$1800 (CAD$) for the part plus labour to install it. I have heard about a
replacement
single piece drive shaft (not the Carbon fiber one) for around
$800 (US or $1400 CAD) and was
wondering if there are any problems that
anyone can think of if I was serious about one of these.
My car is a 91
and it's getting a little "loose" (squeaking around the rear hatch) so I'm
curious
about the single piece unit rubbing on the underside of the car if
the chassis decides to bend a
little (depending on the clearance
tolerances). I'm told the only good reason to have a 2/3 piece
DS is because
of chassis flex. Noone else I know can think of a good reason for the multiple
piece
unit that doesn't have individual parts replacable (except to screw
the customer with high
replacement part costs!).
I'm a little
strapped for cash so I would be interested in any cheap alternatives anyone can
come
up with.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
91 TT "Old
Red"
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 23:13:21
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NEED
HELP!!! Car won't start again
Try checking your idle control
solenoid. It is bolted to the throttle body
just under the
y-pipe. A search on 3SI.org for "ISC motor" or "idle air
solenoid"
should turn up all the testing methods you need.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 10:58 PM
To: Team3S
(E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: NEED HELP!!! Car won't start again
Hi
Folks,
My '91 VR4 in not starting again. After sitting in the 95
degree F sun for
a few hours this afternoon, I started my car. It ran
for 15-20 seconds,
then the engine died. It wouldn't start again
although the starter cranks
fine and the battery seems strong. Some may
remember that I had the same
problem last November. I had cleaned the
relays inside my aftermarket alarm
and I thought that had solved the
problem. The car ran fine for the last 6
months. Anyway, here is
what I've done so far today:
1) Swapped the ECU for the unit in my
friend's '92 VR4.
2) Replaced a relay which I believe is the "ignition kill"
relay to my
aftermarket alarm. However, I am now suspect that this is really
the relay
to flash the lights during an alarm since when I connected the lead
to the
normally closed lead, the dash and running lights came on.
3)
Verified that the relay solenoids inside the aftermarket alarm are
not
"frozen".
4) Unplugged my HKS Turbo Timer.
5) Unplugged all wires
from my aftermarket alarm, but then the starter
wouldn't turn.
6) I can
hear the fuel pump when I first turn on the ignition. I can also
smell
fuel after the engine cranks for a 10 seconds or so.
Car still won't
start. I have no info on the Turbo Timer (it was installed
when I
bought the car). If I unplug the unit from the harness, do I need
to
jump some wires? (Also, the gray wire is unconnected. Can
someone tell me
what it is for?) Are there any ignition components that
tend to fail, crank
or cam sensors?
All help and suggestions are
highly welcome. Thanks in advance,
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:44:28
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DS Dilemma
>I am wondering if I can get some
advise/opinions on replacing my drive shaft.
No help but why do you have
to replace the drive shaft ??
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:42:26
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED HELP!!! Car won't start again
IMHO, I'd say that
you don't have any ignition at all. The symptons of gas
smell, fuel pump is
building pressure and batt in good condition is telling
this. Check it by
having a plug out and let one crank it. If you see no
spark that it''s the
ignition stuff. Here I'm pretty sure that ignition is
not getting any power
as the aftermarket alarm system or the timer doesn't
disabled it.
The
timer can easily be removed by just removing the harness and
reconnecting
the plugs under the steering column.
I dunno about your aftermarket alarm but
it sounds as the cause to me :)
>My '91 VR4 in not starting
again. After sitting in the 95 degree F sun for
>a few hours this
afternoon, I started my car. It ran for 15-20 seconds,
>then the
engine died. It wouldn't start again although the starter
cranks
>fine and the battery seems strong. Some may remember that I
had the same
>problem last November. I had cleaned the relays inside
my aftermarket alarm
>and I thought that had solved the problem. The
car ran fine for the last 6
>months. Anyway, here is what I've done
so far today:
<snip>
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:10:42
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!!
Hi everyone:
I was driving my
car home (50-55mph) when suddenly I lost the functions on
all my stock gauges
(Speed, RPM, Gas, Temp, Oil, Boost), power window and
signal lights. As I
suspected a blown fuse. I replaced but after two or
three minutes of driving
the car again, the fuse was burned. I'm been
trying to identify the
problem with no luck.
This is very strange because I haven't had
any problem with any of this
features before.
I disconnected
the my aftermarket gauges, the EBC, Cruise Control, Lighter,
Active Aereo;
but couldn't identify the problem.
This fuse controls as I said: Power
window, all six gauges, signal lights
and some of the power seat functions.
My Car is a '96 VR-4
I am desesparate now. Need some help
indentifying this problem!!!!
Thanks,
Victor
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:58:16
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Check Engine Light
Hello all,
This morning when I started
my car ('96 VR-4), my "CHECK ENGINE" idiot light
was on. The light
remained on for my entire 10 minute drive to work.
My question is, what
is the usual culprit for the "CHECK ENGINE" light to
come
on?
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:07:25
-0400
From: Moore Mr Dennis W Jr <
MooreDW@mcsc.usmc.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
I've never had such a problem with my
Stealth, but on every other car I've
owned the two most common causes are bad
oxygen sensor or a bad temperature
sensor. But your problem may be none
of the above. Do you have the service
manuals? They will help
answer your question in more detail.
That said, I have a question for the
group: can you use the "paper clip
decoder" on our cars? On my GM cars,
jumpering two pins on a connector
under the dash would cause the "C/E" light
to flash the error code the
computer was reporting. Does this work on
ours?
Thanks.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
128,000 miles, only
2 unscheduled maintenance events!!!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Mark Elkin [mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001
7:58 AM
To: Team 3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine
Light
Hello all,
This morning when I started my car ('96 VR-4), my
"CHECK ENGINE" idiot light
was on. The light remained on for my entire
10 minute drive to work.
My question is, what is the usual culprit for
the "CHECK ENGINE" light to
come on?
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF
600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:18:58
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
you need to download the diagnostic code
from the ECU to determine the
cause. You can do this with an analog
voltmeter. How many miles on your
car? Common codes are for the
TPS or the ISC, but there are lots of others.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Mark Elkin [SMTP:markelkin@mindspring.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 6:58 AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
>
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine Light
>
> Hello all,
>
>
This morning when I started my car ('96 VR-4), my "CHECK ENGINE" idiot
>
light
> was on. The light remained on for my entire 10 minute drive
to work.
>
> My question is, what is the usual culprit for the
"CHECK ENGINE" light to
> come on?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:20:14
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
depends on the vintage of the car. I
had a long post on this about six
months ago.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Moore Mr Dennis W Jr
[SMTP:MooreDW@mcsc.usmc.mil]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 8:07
AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine
Light
>
> I've never had such a problem with my Stealth, but on
every other car I've
> owned the two most common causes are bad oxygen
sensor or a bad
> temperature
> sensor. But your problem may
be none of the above. Do you have the
> service
>
manuals? They will help answer your question in more detail.
>
> That said, I have a question for the group: can you use the "paper
clip
> decoder" on our cars? On my GM cars, jumpering two pins on a
connector
> under the dash would cause the "C/E" light to flash the error
code the
> computer was reporting. Does this work on ours?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
>
128,000 miles, only 2 unscheduled maintenance events!!!
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Elkin
[mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 7:58
AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Check Engine
Light
>
> Hello all,
>
> This morning when I started
my car ('96 VR-4), my "CHECK ENGINE" idiot
> light
> was on.
The light remained on for my entire 10 minute drive to work.
>
> My
question is, what is the usual culprit for the "CHECK ENGINE" light to
>
come on?
>
> Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:37:26
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
My car has 72,000 miles on it. I
have Vineet's cd manual but it is at
home...I also have an analog voltmeter
so I guess I will try to use it to
determine what the code is.
BTW,
the car ran completely fine this morning....no unusual idle
or
anything.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Mark
'96
VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 09:19
To:
'Mark Elkin'; Team 3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine
Light
you need to download the diagnostic code from the ECU to
determine the
cause. You can do this with an analog voltmeter.
How many miles on your
car? Common codes are for the TPS or the ISC,
but there are lots of others.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Mark Elkin [SMTP:markelkin@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June
20, 2001 6:58 AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Check
Engine Light
>
> Hello all,
>
> This morning when I
started my car ('96 VR-4), my "CHECK ENGINE" idiot
> light
> was
on. The light remained on for my entire 10 minute drive to
work.
>
> My question is, what is the usual culprit for the "CHECK
ENGINE" light to
> come on?
>
> Mark
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:33:06
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Need Help: Electrical Problem!
Hi everyone:
I was driving my
car home (50-55mph) when suddenly I lost the functions on
all my stock gauges
(Speed, RPM, Gas, Temp, Oil, Boost), power window and
signal lights. As I
suspected a blown fuse. I replaced but after two or
three minutes of driving
the car again, the fuse was burned. I'm been
trying to identify the
problem with no luck.
This is very strange because I haven't had
any problem with any of this
features before.
I disconnected
the my aftermarket gauges, the EBC, Cruise Control, Lighter,
Active Aereo;
but couldn't identify the problem.
This fuse controls as I said: Power
window, all six gauges, signal lights
and some of the power seat functions.
My Car is a '96 VR-4
I am desesparate now. Need some help
indentifying this problem!!!!
Thanks,
Victor
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:42:34
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
I have this problem with my 96 Stealth
RT/TT and it is do to the fact I have
free flowing precats and run with
a test pipe. Generally I believe the
light comes on do to an emissions
problem.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Moore Mr Dennis W Jr
[mailto:MooreDW@mcsc.usmc.mil]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 8:07 AM
To:
Team 3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
I've
never had such a problem with my Stealth, but on every other car I've
owned
the two most common causes are bad oxygen sensor or a bad
temperature
sensor. But your problem may be none of the above. Do
you have the service
manuals? They will help answer your question in
more detail.
That said, I have a question for the group: can you use the
"paper clip
decoder" on our cars? On my GM cars, jumpering two pins on
a connector
under the dash would cause the "C/E" light to flash the error
code the
computer was reporting. Does this work on
ours?
Thanks.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
128,000 miles, only
2 unscheduled maintenance events!!!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Mark Elkin [mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001
7:58 AM
To: Team 3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine
Light
Hello all,
This morning when I started my car ('96 VR-4), my
"CHECK ENGINE" idiot light
was on. The light remained on for my entire
10 minute drive to work.
My question is, what is the usual culprit for
the "CHECK ENGINE" light to
come on?
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF
600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:53:57
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
You've got a second generation car, so I
think you can get the error code by
the "paper clip method" somebody else
mentioned. Basically, you're looking
at a repeating series of long and
short flashes or voltages. You're gonna
need the service manual to decode the
thing anyhow. Did you do the 60K
maintenance including the timing belt
replacement and water pump replacement
and new front seals? Did you
replace the spark plugs and wires yet?
There are lots of things that
cause error codes to be generated but don't
have pronounced or immediate
effects on performance. Some error codes
disappear when the ignition is
turned off and restarted. Some are retained
(saved) until corrected or
erased.
Since the light came on when you first started up, the code was
generated
during the startup self test, unless it was really on last night
and you
didn't notice it. When you first turn on the ignition,
all the warning
lights come on. As the system goes through self-tests,
the lights go off
one at a time. During this process, some error codes
can be generated. If
you shut the engine down, wait a bit, then
restart, the next cycle may not
generate the error
code.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark
Elkin [SMTP:markelkin@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001
8:37 AM
> To: Team 3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine
Light
>
> My car has 72,000 miles on it. I have Vineet's cd
manual but it is at
> home...I also have an analog voltmeter so I guess I
will try to use it to
> determine what the code is.
>
> BTW,
the car ran completely fine this morning....no unusual idle or
>
anything.
>
> Thanks for everyone's help.
>
>
Mark
> '96 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#525
*********************
