Team3S
Tuesday, June 19
2001
Volume 01 : Number
524
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jun 2001 13:03:32 -0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
I thought all vr4's came with a cd player? Maybe
you could just put in a
mitsu 6 disc, that the only way to retain the
steering wheel controls.....
At 12:54 PM 6/18/01 , Michael Salter
wrote:
>I would like to install a CD in my '92 VR4.
>Would prefer a
6 or 10 CD changer but a single in dash may be enough.
>I would prefer to
retain the steering wheel radio controls.
>Any
recommendations?
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike
Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 13:00:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
>> None. You -will- lose the wheel
controls.
There are some devices out there now for our cars that will
interface
the steering wheel radio controls with selected aftermarket
radios
(infrared maybe?). I saw an example at Circuit City. There is also
a
web site with such devices but I don't remember the url.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Michael Salter" <
magicare@home.com>
Cc: "Team3S List
(E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 18, 2001 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: CD for '92
VR4
None. You -will- lose the wheel controls.
On Mon, 18
Jun 2001, Michael Salter wrote:
> I would like to install a CD in my
'92 VR4.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:02:45
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
Good call.
My 1995 has an Infinity head
unit and speakers and a Pioneer 6-disc CD
changer and everything works with
the steering wheel. Maybe see if someone
has an older unit for
sale.
My brother-in-law said the one I have is about two generations old
(based on
the connector plug going to/from the CD changer) so you will have
to find
one with that plug or get creative and make your own plug to meet a
new CD
changer.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Monday, June 18, 2001 4:01 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
>> None. You -will- lose the wheel
controls.
There are some devices out there now for our cars that will
interface
the steering wheel radio controls with selected aftermarket
radios
(infrared maybe?). I saw an example at Circuit City. There is also
a
web site with such devices but I don't remember the url.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 14:03:31
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
+> I would like to install a CD in my '92
VR4.
+> Would prefer a 6 or 10 CD changer but a single in dash may be
enough.
+> I would prefer to retain the steering wheel radio
controls.
+> Any recommendations?
the only way to retain steering
wheel controls is to stay with
the factory systems. be it a factory
in-dash cd player, or a
changer that plugs into the existing wiring. As
far as I know
the only options for the latter are an Infinity (OEM)
changer,
or a Pioneer CDX-M30 (which is actually what the Infinity
is).
The Pioneer is about $400 retail if you can find it (it's a
really
old model), and really not at all worth it unless you
absolutely have to
have a factory setup. Check Ebay, as you
can usually find a used one
for $100-300 depending on condition
and accessories.
If all
you care about is the volume controls on the wheel, you
could always use an
FM modulated changer. You'll have an extra
controller for the changer
(for changing tracks, discs), and not
quite as good of sound, but an option
nonetheless.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:11:12
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CD
for '92 VR4
It IS possible to keep the steering wheel controls.
There is a company who
makes an adapter. I'll try to dig up the link when I
get home from work.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Schilberg, Darren
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 3:54 PM
To:
'Michael Salter'
Cc: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: CD for '92
VR4
I do not believe steering wheel controls work with aftermarket
radio
installations. Unless perhaps you use the same as the head unit
(Infinity
in my case) and they have wires to make use of
these.
Usually the steering wheel controls are rendered useless but that
is okay
since the new radio sometimes comes with a remote control.
In
any case, Crutchfield has some good charts to show what works where (our
cars
are not listed in the catalog though). My brother-in-law works
for
Pioneer so I push that although I have seen some great stereos at
Gatherings
from other manufacturers.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 13:26:28
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1996 3000GT for sale - pass this around!! :)
For sale -
1996 Green/Tan Leather 3000GT, 87000 miles
Olympia, WA
The car
is in great condition. Exterior is very good (normal small rock
dings
from freeway driving), interior is immaculate. Well maintained,
engine
runs beautifully.
Aesthetic:
Metalic Green exterior
Tan
Leather interior
Premium Infinity sound system
Aftermarket wheels
Sound
dampening material applied to interior - Noticably quieter
ride
Mechanical:
K&N FIPK installed
New clutch, flywheel,
starter, radiator
Oil changed with Mobil 1
Email me privately for
pics.
Asking $13250
Brian Geddes
brian.j.geddes@intel.com(360)459-8160
eve
(253)371-9430 day
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 15:37:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tires that fit 17" wheels (Was: Amazing
Deal...)
Bob,
How accurate are our speedometers
anyhow?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob
Forrest [SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
>
> You can calculate for yourself
(or look at the chart) what tires *will*
> and
> *will not* fit by
looking on the Team3S website. It's in the FAQ pages,
> in
>
the "Wheels & Tires" section, strangely enough... Look for the article
on
> "Plus-Sizing".
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm . The
245/45's have a total
> diameter
> of 25.68", while the 255/40's are
25.03". Since the 255/40's are a 5/8"
> *smaller* diameter, they
will fit easily, but they will definitely change
> your speedometer &
odometer readings. By 2.5%, to be exact...
>
> Best,
>
> Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 15:30:48
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
What happened to our list enforcers?
I
think these non-performance stereo discussions belong over on
the
Stealth/blue light list where the REAL experts are.
Rich/old
poop
At 04:11 PM 6/18/01 -0400, Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
>It IS
possible to keep the steering wheel controls. There is a company
who
>makes an adapter. I'll try to dig up the link when I get home from
work.
>
>Jeff VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>
>I do not believe steering wheel controls work with
aftermarket radio
>installations. Unless perhaps you use the same as
the head unit (Infinity
>in my case) and they have wires to make use of
these.
>
>Usually the steering wheel controls are rendered useless
but that is okay
>since the new radio sometimes comes with a remote
control.
>
>In any case, Crutchfield has some good charts to show
what works where (our
>cars are not listed in the catalog though).
My brother-in-law works for
>Pioneer so I push that although I have seen
some great stereos at Gatherings
>from other
manufacturers.
>
>--Flash!
>1995 VR-4
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 15:45:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Got Brakes??
Okay, y'all drew me into this
one.
1. If you are trail braking, you are braking lighter over a
longer period
of time.
2. That means there will be LESS
weight transfer to the front wheels, so
the front brakes will do a smaller
proportion of the work than hard braking
in a straight line before
turnin.
3. It also means that you are generating (less) heat in the brakes
over a
longer time. The heat transfer calculation is gonna be
complicated, because
heat transfer is driven by the difference in
temperature, which should be a
little less, but for a longer time. I'm
guessing that brakes heat up to a
higher temperature in short hard braking,
but also cool down faster. The
average temperature of the brakes in
trail braking should be lower, but the
time they are hot is greater.
Maybe the temperature changes in trail
braking are more gentle on pads and
rotors.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Volthause [SMTP:volt@vozuluzov.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 2:40
PM
> To: 3000GT
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Got Brakes??
>
>
Let's review...
>
> Flash wrote:
> But the rear brakes do
hardly anything and NEVER get overheated so these
> are
> pointless
to remove. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
>
>
--------
>
> Geoff responded:
> If yer a trail braker,
they'll get hot.
>
> --------
>
> And now I'm saying
that maybe I read that wrong, but it implies that trail
> braking uses up
more of your rear brakes in relation to the front brakes
> than threshold
braking, or straight line braking, or whatever kind of
> braking you do
besides trail braking, and that is an INCORRECT statement.
>
> Yes,
your OVERALL brake temps, front AND rear, may be hotter due to trail
>
braking, (although that statement is arguable since in theory, while
trail
> braking you can't use anywhere near the amount of braking force
you can
> while braking in a straight line) but that to me seems
like a no brainer
> and didn't really need a clarification.
>
> -Scott Holthausen
> '94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 14:02:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Got Brakes??
No..you still have to brake a certain amount of
speed to even get INTO
that turn..then trail braking. Yes?
On
Mon, 18 Jun 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> Okay, y'all drew me into
this one.
>
> 1. If you are trail braking, you are braking
lighter over a longer period
> of time.
> 2. That means
there will be LESS weight transfer to the front wheels, so
> the front
brakes will do a smaller proportion of the work than hard braking
> in a
straight line before turnin.
> 3. It also means that you are generating
(less) heat in the brakes over a
> longer time. The heat transfer
calculation is gonna be complicated, because
> heat transfer is driven by
the difference in temperature, which should be a
> little less, but for a
longer time. I'm guessing that brakes heat up to a
> higher
temperature in short hard braking, but also cool down faster. The
>
average temperature of the brakes in trail braking should be lower, but
the
> time they are hot is greater. Maybe the temperature changes in
trail
> braking are more gentle on pads and rotors.
>
>
Chuck
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/LagunaSeca/mrs-photo.jpghttp://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/LagunaSeca/mrs-photo2.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:54:12
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CD
for '92 VR4
Rich, you're cluttering up the list FAR more than they are
with your whining
about list enforcement and your rants about random
BS. Just because you
disguise your BS with a mention of your over hyped
brakes and some snippet
of road racing doesn't make it right.
This is the Team 3S TECH list, not
the Team 3S PERFORMANCE list. And
just so you know, there's more
PERFORMANCE going on with the "blue light
crowd" then you usually see here.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 4:31 PM
To:
jeffv@1nce.com; Team3s Tech List
Subject:
RE: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
What happened to our list enforcers?
I
think these non-performance stereo discussions belong over on
the
Stealth/blue light list where the REAL experts are.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 14:56:09
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anti-sway bar Suppliers
I am sorry to spam the list but I
promised one of you this
information and I deleted his E-mail.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front
anti-sway bar from Saner Performance at 561-848-1616 talk to
John. $195.00
Stock is .95, Saner's is 1.125 inch.
Rear anti-sway bar form Quickor
Suspension at 503-654- 2175 talk to
Glen. $169.00
Stock is .86, Quickor's
is 1.00 inch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 13:57:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tires that fit 17" wheels (Was: Amazing Deal...)
The service
manual states -5% to +10% error can be expected. What a
piece of crap on a
$30-45K car! So a 2.5% change due to tire rolling
circumference may actually
make the reading more accurate.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 18, 2001 2:37 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tires that fit 17" wheels
(Was: Amazing Deal...)
Bob,
How accurate are our speedometers
anyhow?
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:01:24
-0500
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
> What happened to our list
enforcers?
> I think these non-performance stereo discussions belong over
on the
> Stealth/blue light list where the REAL experts
are.
>Rich/old poop
I don't recall any "rules" on that. I do
recall rules about not "wasting
bandwidth", so if you are not interested in a
thread use the "delete"
button.
The Steering wheel controls and stereo
are part of a S3, and here is the
info you are looking for:
Here's
where you can buy it: (It's the second one from the bottom.)
http://www.discountcarstereo.com/SWRC.htmAnd
here's a good thread at 3Si about the steering wheel control:
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthrea...g+wheel+controlNo
disrespect to ya Rich, but I do disagree with your
post.
Christopher
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 14:09:39
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires that fit 17" wheels (Was: Amazing Deal...)
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Bob,
> How accurate are our speedometers anyhow?
> Chuck
-
-------------------------
Hey, Chuck,
They're not that accurate -
no more or less than any other speedometers--
around +/- 5%, I think.
But whatever your speedometer WAS, a change of 2.5%
will mean that you
*think* you're going ~2mph faster than you were before
changing tire
diameters. And as I think your suggesting,
that's
inconsequential.
Normal tire wear through the life of any tire
gives you about the same
variance. But to take it further, that means
that at the end of the life of
a smaller tire (when the tread has worn by
another 1/2"), when you think
you're going 65mph, you're only going 60.
If your particular speedometer
happens to be off by 5mph (in the same
direction) already, you might be
going only 55 mph.
Obviously, if the
speedometer error is in the other direction and you have
gone to a larger
diameter tire, you could think you're at 55 when you're
going 65.
That's why most cops forgive 5-8 mph over the
limit.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:43:16
EDT
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
CD for '92 VR4
Why would you need an adapter? I have a 10-disc
Jensen CD changer in my 92
RT and I still use my steering wheel
controls. If you replace the head unit,
I can see not having use of
the steering wheel controls anymore... but
otherwise of course you can still
use them. My CD changer is installed with
a FM modulator (which means
you tune to a certain FM station (usually 88.7 or
nearby) to hear your
CD's). As long as you can wire power to your changer
and run it
through the FM modulator, there are absolutely no mods to your
stereo (and
hence no changes to your stereo usability). And frankly in
response to
someone's complaint about the topic of this thread, I think it's
refreshing
to see a post about something OTHER than turbos, dataloggers, big
brakes, or
racing in general since none of these topics apply to me (I'm in
it for
non-racing 3/S tech discussions, such as upkeep, repair,
beautification,
etc.).
- -Steve
In a message dated 6/18/01 3:09:28 PM US Eastern
Standard Time,
jeffv@1nce.com
writes:
<< It IS possible to keep the steering wheel
controls. There is a company who
makes an adapter. I'll try to
dig up the link when I get home from work.
Jeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo >>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:01:01
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: CD for '92 VR4
Ahhh, yes, but you do realize that you do lose
~some~ quality using an FM
Modulator... FM does not have as wide a
frequency range, as regular CD, nor
does it cover the entire audible
frequency range even. Not to say that alot
of people won't realize
this, nor be able to hear it, but even with the
factory head unit and a
factory style cd-changer, the quality is still
better than a FM-Modulated
Changer...
-
-Cody
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Why
would you need an adapter? I have a 10-disc Jensen CD changer in my
92
RT and I still use my steering wheel controls. If you replace the
head
unit,
I can see not having use of the steering wheel controls
anymore... but
otherwise of course you can still use them. My CD
changer is installed with
a FM modulator (which means you tune to a certain
FM station (usually 88.7
or
nearby) to hear your CD's). As long as
you can wire power to your changer
and run it through the FM modulator, there
are absolutely no mods to your
stereo (and hence no changes to your stereo
usability). And frankly in
response to someone's complaint about the
topic of this thread, I think it's
refreshing to see a post about something
OTHER than turbos, dataloggers, big
brakes, or racing in general since none
of these topics apply to me (I'm in
it for non-racing 3/S tech discussions,
such as upkeep, repair,
beautification, etc.).
- -Steve
In a
message dated 6/18/01 3:09:28 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jeffv@1nce.com writes:
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:44:41
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: really, really, stupid question
Your wheels are made of an
aluminum alloy. They are chrome coated. Some
companies chrome steel wheels
but their wheels are usually too heavy. 100%
chrome wheels do not exist,
they will also be heavy and probably cost more
than the car.
Chrome
coating is usually done using electrolysis. I have no clue how they
apply
chrome on plastic, I am not sure if that is even chrome. Chrome is
magnetic,
aluminum is not, check with your magnet inside of the rim, away
from the
spokes where there is in no chrome.
Philip
At 01:06 PM 6/18/2001,
Donnelly, Michael wrote:
>Ok, this is a really stupid one, but ... I
have a '94 R/T TT in pretty much
>stock trim, I want to know if my wheels
(which are the stock style) are
>chrome or just chrome platted
aluminum? They look chrome, but the manual
>states on page 22-2 for
DOHC <Turbo> Wheel type - Aluminum type. I have
>also seen the
same thing on a number of FAQ pages. I wasn't certain so I
>just
went out and stuck a magnet to it, and it stuck (chrome right?).
God,
>I feel stupid asking this ... but; if they are chrome then I'm going
to buy
>some new wheels along with the new skins I need (probably Yoko's
AVS dB).
>Are the chrome wheels on option that isn't spelled out in the
manual? And
>how much weight is it going to
save?
>
>BTW, my fog light problem (old thread) is probably caused
by poor wheel
>balance. I get shaking around 80 mph. That and
the fact the one tire has a
>slow leak has prompted me to get some new
tires and an alignment (and
>possible new wheels?).
>
>Michael
Donnelly
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:43:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: Flash <
dschilberg@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CD for
Now I don't want to start slinging but we are all
here to help in whatever problem even if it is radios (which can be
technical). I admit defeat with other models and radios as not all cars
are created equal. I noted that I had a 1995 VR-4 and that might be
different than a Stealth or a different year 3000GT.
Once you get into FM
modulators then you start cheating. No fair. Maybe Dodge used items
different than Mitsubishi. Keep the answers coming for the others.
Thanks to those who answered correctly I am in no way a radio specialist
(Eric Bowden and many, many others know more) but my brother-in-law definitely
spotted that the connection on the Pioneer CD changer I had as at least one to
two models old. Maybe the new stores have things that cover many more
years and models than before.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Infinity head
unit, Pioneer CD changer, and steering wheels controls
StevePKT77@aol.com wrote ..
> Why
would you need an adapter? I have a 10-disc Jensen CD changer in
my
> 92
> RT and I still use my steering wheel controls. If
you replace the head
> unit,
> I can see not having use of the
steering wheel controls anymore... but
> otherwise of course you can still
use them. My CD changer is installed
> with
> a FM modulator
(which means you tune to a certain FM station (usually 88.7
> or
>
nearby) to hear your CD's). As long as you can wire power to your
changer
> and run it through the FM modulator, there are absolutely no
mods to your
> stereo (and hence no changes to your stereo
usability). And frankly in
> response to someone's complaint about
the topic of this thread, I think
> it's
> refreshing to see a post
about something OTHER than turbos, dataloggers,
> big
> brakes, or
racing in general since none of these topics apply to me (I'm
> in
> it for non-racing 3/S tech discussions, such as upkeep, repair,
> beautification, etc.).
> -Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:43:22
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Anti-sway bar Suppliers
I'm amazed at how many people want to
talk about FM modulators when a post
like this comes along. Maybe I've been
out of the loop, but the last i
heard, there were absolutely no sway bars
available for our cars (probably
because of the labor involved in installing
them) Now this.....THIS IS
FANTASTIC. Has anybody put these to use, are they
as good as the ST sway
bars for other cars? It looks like a group buy is in
order....
Wayne
>I am sorry to spam the list but I
promised one of you this
>information and I deleted his
E-mail.
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Front
anti-sway bar from Saner Performance at 561-848-1616 talk to
>John.
$195.00
>Stock is .95, Saner's is 1.125 inch.
>Rear anti-sway bar
form Quickor Suspension at 503-654- 2175 talk to
>Glen.
$169.00
>Stock is .86, Quickor's is 1.00 inch
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 22:59:53
-0400
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth Center Cap for sale
I just happen to have one extra
center cap for a 17" Stealth TT wheel
(1st gen). If anyone needs an
extra, if you've lost one, make me an
offer. Reply offline please
s_lasher@bellsouth.net-
-Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:17:20
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED INFO
Finally I found one of our electronically fuel
injectors in my Mitsu 4G61
non turbo is clogged and because of that I have
ordered a new one but to
replace it I donot know how I must do first.
If
anybody knows where I can get the website which give the instruction how
to
change the fuel injector, please let me know.
Your kindly attention will be
highly appreciated.
Regards,
4GTI 16V
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 00:56:31
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Low Speed Knock and Cool cooling mods
Low Speed Knock
Can
someone please explain the term "low speed knock", or point me to a site
or
faq that explains the cures/causes of this problem. I'm well versed in
the cures and causes of "high speed knock" or detonation - what TT owner
isn't? But I think I'm getting knock at very low engine speed, the
kind you
get when you lug the engine in high gear and stomp on the
throttle. For
example if I shift from 1st to 3rd gear and rpm drops to
below ~2100 and I
floor the throttle I hear what sounds like rattling -
almost like a machine
gun.
I raised the rear of my hood about 1.75"
for better cooling (this really
works, I measured engine temps that dropped
by as much as 50 F in some areas
of the engine compartment), but now I can
hear everything in the engine.
I've always heard the "low speed knock"
when I lug the engine, but now that I
have the hood open I can hear it much
louder. At first I thought it was the
pistons just rattling in the
bore (kind of like when you start a car with
forged pistons on a cold
morning), but the other day I added octane booster
and it seemed to go
away. So I'm thinking it might be some form of knock. I
assume
it's not that harmful to the motor, otherwise my engine would have
blown up
a long time ago. Can someone please enlighten me on this subject -
I
feel kind of stupid for not knowing anything about it.
'97 VR-4
- -
Gutted pre-cats
- - HKS SMF Filter - very open filter, you can hear
everything through it, even
the valves.
- - Ported/Polished heads - no
obvious evidence of detonation when I inspected
the pistons (still in their
bore)
- - DSBC - set for 14 psi max for street driving (30G/42R) - the engine
is
never run above 14.5 psi (sustained) with the exception of a single boost
spike on pump gas and octane booster to ~16 psi for a fraction of a second -
I was still figuring out the DSBC.
- - 40K Miles on the motor -
I've heard the "knock" sound since I got the car
at 20K miles.
- - Stock
fuel and exhaust - for now
Side Note: Raising the rear of the hood
dramatically lowers the engine
compartment temps. It takes about 1/2
an hour to do, and is a totally
reversible mod. V-8 drag racers have
been using this trick for years to
shave a few 1/10ths off their 1/4 mile, I
don't know why I didn't try it
sooner. Most people don't even notice
that the rear of the hood is raised
slightly above the quarter panel
line. I highly recommend it for those of
you concerned about summer
heat problems.
Cyrus
SF Bay Area
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 22:03:55
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R - 60% start duty??
Hi Ken,
> Recently, I rewired
my AVC-R to the RPM signal (white wire off ECM
> connector, right?!) since
the previous owner had it hardwired to the
> IDC.
Do you get
correct readings when you use the SAVC-R to monitor RPM?
> So, for the
first time I'm going through the learn process.
> Here's what I've
done:
>
> Set up gear judge and car select.
> Set boost to
1.00 bar, DC to 40%.
You may want to try lower Initial Duty settings to
see if learning will
stabilize.
> NE point 2500-6500
(methinks)
> Learn gear on for 2nd - 5th
> Feedback 9 7 5 3
3
> Start duty for 1st 50%, all others 0%
>
> Ok, first of
all, the boost in 2nd & 3rd was oscillating, so I set the
> feedbacks
down to: 9 6 4 2 2. After turning the car off once, they
>
seem smooth now.
>
> Then, I was only getting 10psi of boost.
So I had to turn it all the
> way up to 60% Duty to get 14-15psi!
What am I doing wrong here?
If you manually set Duty settings too high,
you could overboost and that
causes the unit to stop
learning.
>
> Also, can I change settings 'on the fly,' or do
you have to change them,
> turn the car off, then restart? (like
Windows)
Yes, you can leave it on.
> And, won't the controller
change the start duties for each gear by
> itself?
No, not the
Start Duty values. It will set the Duty Cycle settings for
different
RPM ranges. However learn mode becomes disabled unless ALL of
the
following criteria are being met:
1) Throttle is above certain %, close to
WOT (i.e. it only learns when you
"floor it")
2) Boost pressure doesn't
exceed your specified setting
3) "Learn Gear" is enabled (for gear in which
you wish to learn in)
4) "Start Duty" is set to zero (for gear in which you
wish to learn in)
Good luck,
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 07:06:55
-0400
From: "Justin Sciarretta" <
justin_sciarretta@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Question
Hi TEAM3S,
1993 Dodge Stealth RT, stock
clutch, 98 000 kms, clutch recently replaced in
November due to
slippage
I recently noticed that my clutch pedal seems to require more
force in order
to engage. Everything shifts smoothly and feels fine,
but I need to exert
more force in order to engage the clutch. Any
ideas before I bring it in to
the
mechanics.
Thanks,
Justin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 07:42:20
-0400
From: Moore Mr Dennis W Jr <
MooreDW@mcsc.usmc.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Trying to find a shop
Hi All,
I just moved to
Fredericksburg, VA, and would like to hear recommendations
on shops in the
area where I should (or should not) take my Stealth for
work. Nothing
exotic, just mundane stuff like clutch replacement, brake pad
swap-outs, and
60K maintenance. Please send to me privately.
Thanks!
Dennis
Moore
93 Stealth ES
128,000 miles, only 2 unscheduled maintenance
events!!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 06:59:42
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Low Speed Knock and Cool cooling mods
Cyrus - I'm not aware of the low
speed knock condition you described.
Something else comes to mind
though. Under the condition you described your
BC will cycle rapidly to
bleed off boost. Is it possible the :machine gun"
sound comes from the
DSBC solenoid? If this is the case you will only hear
it once you have
built the level of boost dialed in on the DSBC (14 PSI?).
Next time you hear
it, get off the throttle just enough to drop boost to a
few PSI below your
setting. Does it go away?
Another way to test this would be to turn
off your BC. If you can't
replicate the sound when the BC is turned off
I would venture to guess it is
your BC solenoid.
Oskar
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
NassiriC@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 18, 2001 11:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Low Speed Knock and Cool
cooling mods
> Low Speed Knock
>
> Can someone please
explain the term "low speed knock", or point me to a
site
> or faq that
explains the cures/causes of this problem. I'm well versed in
> the
cures and causes of "high speed knock" or detonation - what TT owner
>
isn't? But I think I'm getting knock at very low engine speed, the
kind
you
> get when you lug the engine in high gear and stomp on the
throttle. For
> example if I shift from 1st to 3rd gear and rpm
drops to below ~2100 and I
> floor the throttle I hear what sounds like
rattling - almost like a
machine
> gun.
>
> I raised the
rear of my hood about 1.75" for better cooling (this really
> works, I
measured engine temps that dropped by as much as 50 F in some
areas
>
of the engine compartment), but now I can hear everything in the engine.
>
I've always heard the "low speed knock" when I lug the engine, but now
that
I
> have the hood open I can hear it much louder. At first I thought
it was
the
> pistons just rattling in the bore (kind of like when you
start a car with
> forged pistons on a cold morning), but the other day I
added octane
booster
> and it seemed to go away. So I'm thinking
it might be some form of knock.
I
> assume it's not that harmful to the
motor, otherwise my engine would have
> blown up a long time ago.
Can someone please enlighten me on this
subject -
> I feel kind of
stupid for not knowing anything about it.
>
> '97 VR-4
> -
Gutted pre-cats
> - HKS SMF Filter - very open filter, you can hear
everything through it,
even
> the valves.
> - Ported/Polished
heads - no obvious evidence of detonation when I
inspected
> the
pistons (still in their bore)
> - DSBC - set for 14 psi max for street
driving (30G/42R) - the engine is
> never run above 14.5 psi (sustained)
with the exception of a single boost
> spike on pump gas and octane
booster to ~16 psi for a fraction of a
second -
> I was still
figuring out the DSBC.
> - 40K Miles on the motor - I've heard the "knock"
sound since I got the
car
> at 20K miles.
> - Stock fuel and
exhaust - for now
>
>
> Side Note: Raising the rear of the
hood dramatically lowers the engine
> compartment temps. It takes
about 1/2 an hour to do, and is a totally
> reversible mod. V-8 drag
racers have been using this trick for years to
> shave a few 1/10ths off
their 1/4 mile, I don't know why I didn't try it
> sooner. Most
people don't even notice that the rear of the hood is raised
> slightly
above the quarter panel line. I highly recommend it for those of
>
you concerned about summer heat problems.
>
> Cyrus
> SF Bay
Area
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 06:33:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anti-sway bar Suppliers
Join the amazed crowd, Wayne. Below
is a post of mine from over one
year ago that garnered no significant
responses. One thing to
remember is that a stronger front bar (and MUCH
stronger [over
twice!] in the case of Saner's front bar) will likely
increase
understeer. This is something the racers in the group probably do
NOT
want more of (assuming they are striving for balanced handling
with
maybe just a very little understeer at the limits). IMHO, the
stock
3S car is already setup (especially with slightly stiffer and
shorter
aftermarket springs) for almost any sane street driving.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: "Team
3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet"
<
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Monday,
March 20, 2000 4:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: Addco anti-sway bars
[Note:
message posted to both Team3S and Starnet lists]
If this is an old topic I
apologize. I have not yet made it
through all the old posts.
Does
anyone have any experience or opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on
our cars? Addco front bar is 1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as
a 54% increase in stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar is 0.875"
(stock is 0.86"),
for a 7% increase in stiffness.
1)
understeer/oversteer. I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar
may increase understeer, something we don't need
more of. And that the rear
bar may increase oversteer slightly
but would it be enough to balance the
stronger front bar?
2) lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with
stock
suspension, with aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs
and bars?
3) bar dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the
other
dimensions the same and would any modification be required to
mount
the bars? Other dimensional changes would also affect
overall bar
stiffness.
4) Experiences. Anyone care to mention their experiences
with
this add-on?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 18, 2001 7:43 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Anti-sway bar
Suppliers
I'm amazed at how many people want to talk about FM modulators
when a
post like this comes along. Maybe I've been out of the loop, but
the
last i heard, there were absolutely no sway bars available for
our
cars (probably because of the labor involved in installing them)
Now
this.....THIS IS FANTASTIC. Has anybody put these to use, are they
as
good as the ST sway bars for other cars? It looks like a group buy
is
in order....
Wayne
>I am sorry to spam the list but I
promised one of you this
>information and I deleted his
E-mail.
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Front
anti-sway bar from Saner Performance at 561-848-1616 talk to
>John.
$195.00
>Stock is .95, Saner's is 1.125 inch.
>Rear anti-sway bar
form Quickor Suspension at 503-654- 2175 talk to
>Glen.
$169.00
>Stock is .86, Quickor's is 1.00 inch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 15:04:29
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
>If anybody knows where I can get the website
which give the instruction how
>to change the fuel injector, please let me
know.
I don't know of any website that shows this but it is simple and
straight
forward :
1) let the car sit for a longer period to make sure
fuel pressure is gone
2) remove the intake elbow and intake plenum.
3) if
you cannot lift the plenum enough to reach the injectors remove the
throttle
body from the intake plenum
4) stuff some rags into the intake manifold and
around it as there are many
places bolts or washers can fall in. Remove the
bolts holding the fuel rails.
5) carefully lift the fuel rails with the
injectors still sitting them. If
you cannot lift it enough you may also
loosen any clamps holding the fuel
lines.
6) Unplug the injector (how do
you know that it is the problem ?) and slide
it out the fuel rail. Replace
it with the new one. Use a little bit of oil
around the o-ring when sliding
the new injector in.
7) install the stuff in reverse order
Good
luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 06:58:30
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
>> > If anybody knows where I can get the
website which
>> give the instruction how
>> >to change the
fuel injector, please let me know.
Roger Gerl wrote:
>> I don't
know of any website that shows this
Hmmmm, my web site does (and much,
much more!).
http://www.3si.org/member-home/nlucius/n-2-injectors.htmNote
that my instructions neglect to mention the mounting bolt near
the back of
the throttle body that needs to be removed in order to
lift the
plenum.
Also, I don't believe letting the car sit for any reasonable
length
of time will relieve the fuel line pressure. Either disconnect
the
electrical connector at the pump (definately works) or pull fuse
#12
(MFI relay, engine control module; I've never tried this but it
should
work) and try to start the car (it won't) to reduce fuel
line
pressure.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 19, 2001 7:04 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
>If
anybody knows where I can get the website which give the
instruction
how
>to change the fuel injector, please let me know.
I don't know
of any website that shows this but it is simple and
straight
forward
:
1) let the car sit for a longer period to make sure fuel pressure
is
gone
2) remove the intake elbow and intake plenum.
3) if you cannot
lift the plenum enough to reach the injectors remove
the
throttle body
from the intake plenum
4) stuff some rags into the intake manifold and around
it as there
are many
places bolts or washers can fall in. Remove the
bolts holding the
fuel rails.
5) carefully lift the fuel rails with the
injectors still sitting
them. If
you cannot lift it enough you may also
loosen any clamps holding the
fuel
lines.
6) Unplug the injector (how
do you know that it is the problem ?) and
slide
it out the fuel rail.
Replace it with the new one. Use a little bit
of oil
around the o-ring
when sliding the new injector in.
7) install the stuff in reverse
order
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 09:12:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Got Brakes??
But if you're going to trail brake, you don't
have to brake as much to make
the turnin, because you are going to enter at a
higher speed and continue to
brake to the apex.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 4:02
PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: 3000GT
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Got Brakes??
>
> No..you still have to brake a certain
amount of speed to even get INTO
> that turn..then trail braking.
Yes?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#524
*********************
