Team3S
Thursday, June 14
2001
Volume 01 : Number
519
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:08:23 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: New Blitz SBC-I-D set up question
I installed the new Blitz
SBC-I-D in my '96 VR-4 last month. Thanks to
Roger and J. Adams page,
it was easy. You can easily mount the little
graphic display (2" by 3")
anywhere in the car. I have the readings on PSI
(just personal choice). The
EBC is on auto function.
The other day I have an overboost situation
(15.5psi!!). The alarm was on
(the display was blinking on red) but I did not
felt a reduction on boost.
I have the max boost in channel 4 at 14.7
psi.
The warning and alarm function are on at 14.5 psi.
I have the
Limiter set at 4 and the Gain at 6.
Are this settings within
reasonable/safe margins?
Also, there some other functions like DATA1,
2,3, I don't know what they are
for.
Any input on this matter will be
greatly appreciated.
R/
Victor
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
FIPK, Blitz
SBC-I-D set at 14.7
Triple A-Pillar Gauge Pod (Boost/EGT & A/F
)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 19:29:19
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Blitz SBC-I-D set up question
>The other day I have
an overboost situation (15.5psi!!). The alarm was on
>(the display was
blinking on red) but I did not felt a reduction on boost.
>I have the max
boost in channel 4 at 14.7 psi.
>The warning and alarm function are on at
14.5 psi.
>I have the Limiter set at 4 and the Gain at 6.
The unit
is too new to really have any experience. Especially the AUTO
funtion is not
clear what it does. You should definitely crank down the max
boost as
depending on the ambient overboost may happen quicker. The AUTO is
maybe not
quick enough to compensate (but quicker than on the Apexi). I
can't really
say, but the Gain sounds too small for me too.
>Also, there some other
functions like DATA1, 2,3, I don't know what they are
>for.
For
sending information to the Power Meter.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:42:12
EDT
From:
ViPeR41879@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Yokohama AVS dB tires?
Sorry Bob for just sending this to you....messed
up meant to send it to the list. I was just looking on tire rack a minute
ago at the AVS dbs and wanted to
know if 255/45/18s will fit on our
cars....as far as clearance. I know 40
series will and imagine 45s will
fit I just wanted to be sure. Also I have a
94 3000GT
SL.
Thanks,
Nathan
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:37:30
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Acceptable sizes- Yokohama AVS dB tires?
> I was just looking on tire
rack a minute ago at the AVS dbs and wanted to
know if 255/45/18s will fit on
our cars....as far as clearance. I know 40
series will and imagine 45s
will fit I just wanted to be sure. Also I have
a 94 3000GT SL.
>
Thanks,
> Nathan
- --------------------------
Hey,
Nathan,
If you look at our "plus-sizing" page,
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htm
, it
shows how to calculate the overall diameter of any tire. You can
look at
the other diameters listed (in the chart) to get an idea if the
tire/wheel
combo in question is comparable. For 255/45/18, it's 255 x
0.45 = 114.75mm,
or 4.52". Multiply times 2 = 9.04" and add 18" -
total diameter is 27.04".
The 255/40/18 comes out to 26.03". That's a
whole inch difference! My
guess is that it will cause problems, since
most of the acceptable sizes in
the chart run from 25" to 25.8".
Obviously, the 45s will also throw off
your speedometer & odometer.
Hopefully, someone who has tried 255/45/18
will
comment...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:40:59
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Treadwear ratings
When comparing treadwear ratings it is not an
apples to apples comparison
when comparing different brands. From
Discount Tire Direct information
page:
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is
a comparative rating based on the wear of a tire when
tested carefully under
controlled conditions. For example, a tire graded 400
should have its useful
tread last twice as long as a tire graded 200.
Another tire manufacturer,
however, may grade a comparable design 300, so a
grade of 150 would last just
half as long under their grading scheme. The
lesson learned is to not use one
manufacturer's grade versus the other, but
instead to compare tire grades
within a given brand. Actual treadwear
performance can vary tremendously
according to the tire's real-world use:
variations in driving habits, service
practices (most importantly air
pressure maintenance) and road conditions and
climate affect tire life.
Sean
'91 R/T TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:01:45
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Treadwear ratings
+> When comparing treadwear ratings it
is not an apples to apples comparison
+> when comparing different
brands. From Discount Tire Direct information
+> page:
+>
Treadwear
+> The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear
of a tire when
+> tested carefully under controlled conditions. For
example, a tire graded 400
+> should have its useful tread last twice as
long as a tire graded 200.
+> Another tire manufacturer, however, may
grade a comparable design 300, so a
+> grade of 150 would last just half
as long under their grading scheme. The
+> lesson learned is to not use
one manufacturer's grade versus the other, but
+> instead to compare tire
grades within a given brand. Actual treadwear
+> performance can vary
tremendously according to the tire's real-world use:
+> variations in
driving habits, service practices (most importantly air
+> pressure
maintenance) and road conditions and climate affect tire life.
+>
Sean
+> '91 R/T TT
Actually, as far as my feeble mind grasps the
subject, it _is_ apples
to apples since the UTQG system is a government
mandated standard.
The standard has a specific expectation of treadwear
relative to a
baseline number of 100. ANY tire adhering to this
standard should be
directly comparable to this baseline. Perhaps I'm
mistaken, and if
so, someone please show me the error of my ways.
:)
Here's what Tire Rack says:
(
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/utqg.htm)
-
------------------
The Department of Transportation requires each
manufacturer to grade
its tires under the Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG)
labeling system
and establish ratings for treadwear, traction, and
temperature
resistance. These tests are conducted independently by each
manufacturer
following government guidelines to assign values that represent
a
comparison between the tested tire and a control tire. While traction
and temperature resistance ratings are specific performance levels, the
treadwear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following field
testing and are most accurate when comparing tires of the same
brand.
Treadwear
Treadwear receives a comparative rating based on
wear rate of the the
tire in field testing following a government specified
course. For
example, a tire grade of 150 wears 1.5 times longer than a tire
graded
100. Actual performance of the tire can vary significantly depending
on
conditions, driving habits, care, road characteristics, and
climate.
Traction
Straight-a-head wet braking traction has been
represented by a grade of
A, B, or C with A being the highest. In 1997 a new
top rating of "AA"
has been introduced to indicate even greater wet braking
traction.
However, due to its newness, this grade will probably be applied
initially to new tire lines as they are introduced and later to
existing
lines which excel in wet braking, but had been limited to the
previous
top grade of "A". Traction grades do not indicate wet cornering
ability.
Temperature
Temperature resistance is graded A, B or C.
It represents the tire's
resistance to the heat generated by running at high
speed. Grade C is
the minimum level of performance for all passenger car
tires as set
under Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. This grade is
established
for a tire that is properly inflated and not
overloaded.
Note: UTQG ratings are not required on winter and light truck
sized tires.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:18:25
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Yokohama AVS dB tires?
my yoko booklet doesn't show ANY 18"
tires for AVS Intermediates ...
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Bob Forrest [SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 13,
2001 11:26 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; Jim Berry; Team3S
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Yokohama AVS dB tires?
>
> Heh, heh... That's why
I had such a hard time figuring out what they were
> until I compared the
tread pattern-- They're not listed in the booklet,
> and
> not
on the Yoko or TireRack websites. But here they are:
>
>
www.Team3S.com/Images/AVS-Gewalt.jpg>
> They're Yoko AVS Intermediates, I believe. 255/35ZR18.
>
> F
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
> myYoko booklet shows 255R35Z18 available in avs sport only.
>
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Bob
Forrest [SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
> > > Yeah, Jim, I had already
looked at Tire Rack, but I hadn't really paid
> > > attention to the
tread design - only the size, 255/35ZR18. And I
> couldn't
>
> > find them in that size (not even on the Yoko site!), so they must be
a
> > > discontinued size. (A whole lot of Porsche and Ferrari
drivers have
> them,
> > > so I guess they were available
until recently). I finally went out
> and
> > > looked
at the tread again and matched them up with the photo on the
>
Tire
> > > Rack site. They are the "AVS Intermediate", which
only have a wear
> rating
> > > of 160. They are
Ultra-High Performance, and stick like glue, so I
> guess
> >
> they'll go to the "nuclear waste dump" a bit sooner than the dBs.
>
Like
> > > you,
> > > I don't drive much, so they'll
still last a while unless I do too many
> > > "Thunderhills".
(We'll miss not seeing you there). The only time the
> > >
tires
> > > are noisy are over gravel or dirt, since the deep rain
grooves pick up
> > > *lots* of debris and pelt the hell out of the
wheel wells. Very
> > > impressive
> > > tires, if
my 2 runs on PCH near Half Moon Bay are any indication. And
> >
> very
> > > different from the AVS dBs. I'm glad I have
these "AVS
> Intermediates",
> > > but
> > > the
AVS dBs are probably better for those who do mostly highway
>
driving.
> > > Later,
> > > Forrest
> >
>
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> > > >
Bob
> > > > You could go to the Tire Rack site and look at tread
patterns to see
> > > what
> > > > you've got. The
AVS db has a wear rating of 320 or so, which means
> that
> >
> > you'll get sick of looking at them before they wear out ---
they
> have
> a
> > > > half-life longer than most
radioactive isotopes.
> > > >
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/yokohama/yokohama.htm>
> > > Sorry I'm going to miss out on Thunderhill --- I was afixin ta
go
> but
> > > I've
> > > got
> > >
> too many other places to spend my money in the next two months.
>
> > > Jim
Berry
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:22:08
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Treadwear ratings
+> +> When comparing treadwear
ratings it is not an apples to apples comparison
+> +> when comparing
different brands. From Discount Tire Direct information
+> +>
page:
+> +> Treadwear
+> +> The treadwear grade is a
comparative rating based on the wear of a tire w
hen
+> +> tested
carefully under controlled conditions. For example, a tire graded
400
+> +> should have its useful tread last twice as long as a tire
graded 200.
+> +> Another tire manufacturer, however, may grade a
comparable design 300, so
a
+> +> grade of 150 would last just
half as long under their grading scheme. The
+> +> lesson learned is to
not use one manufacturer's grade versus the other, b
ut
+> +>
instead to compare tire grades within a given brand. Actual treadwear
+>
+> performance can vary tremendously according to the tire's real-world
use:
+> +> variations in driving habits, service practices (most
importantly air
+> +> pressure maintenance) and road conditions and
climate affect tire life.
+> +> Sean
+> +> '91 R/T
TT
+>
+> Actually, as far as my feeble mind grasps the subject, it
_is_ apples
+> to apples since the UTQG system is a government mandated
standard.
+> The standard has a specific expectation of treadwear
relative to a
+> baseline number of 100. ANY tire adhering to this
standard should be
+> directly comparable to this baseline. Perhaps
I'm mistaken, and if
+> so, someone please show me the error of my
ways. :)
+>
+> Here's what Tire Rack says:
+>
+>
(
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/utqg.htm)
+>
+> ------------------
+>
+> The Department of Transportation
requires each manufacturer to grade
+> its tires under the Uniform Tire
Quality Grade (UTQG) labeling system
+> and establish ratings for
treadwear, traction, and temperature
+> resistance. These tests are
conducted independently by each manufacturer
+> following government
guidelines to assign values that represent a
+> comparison between the
tested tire and a control tire. While traction
+> and temperature
resistance ratings are specific performance levels, the
+> treadwear
ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following field
+> testing and
are most accurate when comparing tires of the same
brand.
<snip>
Duh.. nevermind. I just realized
the discrepancy. However, I am
surprised to see this in a so-called
"standard".. In case anyone's
interested, here's the official
definitions:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/testing/tirerate/there's
even a link there with comparison ratings of (I suppose) every
tire sold in
this country, although it's out of date. It's "The Uniform
Tire
Quality Grading Report".
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black
3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 19:33:40
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CV joint replacement question
>my 95 VR-4. First, I
believe it can be removed w/o taking the shaft out
>that goes into the
tranny.
>Sam
>
>
I decided I would answer the first
part of my question myself since I found
out today whilst removing the
CV/axle. You do not have to remove the axle
from the tranny. Just
before the carrier bearing, there is a joint where
the female end of the CV
disconnects (splined) from the rest of the inner
axle. The whole thing
pulls out and you do not have to disturb the
transmission mating seal at
all. You just have to get under there and tap
it out from the
back. I am still working on the inner tie rod link. I
think the
boot has to come off and the set screw or pin needs to be removed
before it
will be allowed to be rotated off. Anybody out there do this yet?
I
know this is the reason I have a little play in my steering
wheel--maybe
others have this too and just do not realize
why.
Sam
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 12:40:16
-0400
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine speed sensor?
Hey, I have a question. I was having
problems with my car dying while I was
driving, and then it wouldn't want to
crank up. The Dodge dealer said that the
Engine speed sensor was bad. Would
a bad engine speed sensor keep the car from
cranking up? Has anybody had
this problem before? Thanks in advance for any
help!
Robert
Booker
3/Si #311
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 12:52:06
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine speed sensor?
I think the sensor you're speaking of is
also called the crankshaft
position sensor. It is a magnetic pickup
sensor that tells the computer
1. the engine is running 2. the exact position
of it 3. the speed of
it. I had the crank sensor die on my Chevy
Beretta one time, after
running over one of those DOT car counting little
black hose things they
use sometimes. The car just shut off, drifted to
a stop, and wouldn't
start. It shouldn't be too bad of a job, if that's
it! Ask them how
they came to that conclusion, and to show you.
If on a diagnostic
computer, the engine would turn over (starter cranking)
but the computer
would show 0 rpm. Let us know!
Ken
Stanton
2 - '91 Pearl White R/T TT's
Organizer - 3SI
Rochester
Robert Booker wrote:
> Hey, I have a question.
I was having problems with my car dying while
> I was driving, and then it
wouldn't want to crank up. The Dodge dealer
> said that the Engine speed
sensor was bad. Would a bad engine speed
> sensor keep the car from
cranking up? Has anybody had this problem
> before? Thanks in advance for
any help! Robert Booker3/Si #311
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 17:22:31
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ARC-2GP For Sale
I have one that I've used for about a
year. Comes complete with the hotwire
MAF sensor replacement and all
cables/connectors/instructions.
I'm overly picky with my car and want a
little higher level of adjustability
than the ARC-2 provides for my
car. It works fine with my 550cc injectors
and everything, but my car
is a little extra-finicky and its tough for me to
adjust without
datalogging.
Includes the ARM-1 A/F ratio meter as well. Complete
with all the stuff
shown in the picture at Dynamic Racing, except I have the
larger/longer K&N
filter shown in the picture to the right.
http://www.dynamicracing1.com/3000GT___Stealth/FUEL_SYSTEMS/fuel_systems.html
Works
good, switching to something with datalogging (but more $$$$). Make
me
an offer... I'll have it off the car and ready to go in 2-3
weeks.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#519
*********************
