Team3S
Saturday, June 9
2001
Volume 01 : Number
515
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 8 Jun 2001 15:51:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt problem
Hi all,
I received the e-mail below
from a person who's obviously having some
problems with a timing belt
replacement. Telling him what he needs to do
is a bit beyond my level of
expertise. I thought someone on the list might
be willing to contact him at
the e-mail address given below and point him
in the right
direction.
Thanks,
Steve
- ---------- Forwarded message
----------
> Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 13:41:51 -0500
> From: David
Eckhardt <
capndave@peoplepc.com>
> To:
kempfsc@auburn.edu> Subject:
Checking the Alignment of Timing Marks
>
> Got a Quick Question
about Timing. I'm in the middle of a 120K tune up
> and when I
aligned the sprocket markings and took the belt off the front
> two
sprockets turned seven teeth to the right. Is this a bad thing.
How
> do I fix it, just turn it clockwise, counterclockwise? Please
Help.
> thanks, Dave
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 15:42:36
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: ABS brake problem
Here is the problem with my ABS brake
system. As it turns out there is a
float in the master cylinder. Mine is
sticking...this causes the ABS to
react the way it did. Now the float can
stick by a couple of causes. 1
over filled reservoir or pulled out
rubber boot , 2 bad master cylinder,
and dirty or discrepant brake fluid. My
master cylinder is bad @ 103000
miles. It will cost me 362.00 for a
replacement one through
Mitsubishi...dodge wanted 464.00. so always check
your local mitsu dealer
before buying that dodge part.
I will most likely
add ss brake lines to my car now since I will be opening
the
system.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 17:58:39
-0600
From: "Dean Knoepfle" <
speedfreek@uswest.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install help!!
I am installing my ARM1 tomorrow
and just wanted to verify the pins on
the ECU to tap into for the front and
rear bank O2 sensors. I have a
1994 VR4 and I was told the rear bank is
#60 and the front bank is #75.
Is this correct?
2nd question:
I am going to use a toggle switch to be able to check
both front and rear
with one gauge. I would like 2 different pin #s
that I can use for
grounds in the ECU for the brown wire and then I will
use the ground the
black wire to the chasis.
Thanks for any input, Dean
Knoepfle
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 13:17:10
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install help!!
> I am installing my ARM1
tomorrow and just wanted to verify the pins on
> the ECU to tap into for
the front and rear bank O2 sensors. I have a
> 1994 VR4 and I was
told the rear bank is #60 and the front bank is #75.
> Is this
correct?
For Turbo cars up to 1995 left is #75 and right
#76
> I would like 2 different pin #s
> that I can use for
grounds in the ECU for the brown wire and then I will
> use the ground the
black wire to the chasis.
Pin 92 for both
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 04:17:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install help!!
Dean,
I have posted the
Service Manual "ECM" pin assignments for all years
at my web page
below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htmThe
manual says pins 75 and 76 for front O2 and 60 for rear (up to
'95). It would
be best to test the pins with a voltmeter to be sure.
The manual says to use
pin 26 for ground. There are usually two
ground pins on the ECM. It is also
easy to monitor voltages where the
wires insert into the ECM connector with
the connector attached to
the ECM - do not short wires and use the ECM
ground.
As far as grounds, I always thought it wise to use the +12V
and
ground wires at the ECM when connecting to any ECM wire (that is
to
NOT use a chassis ground or +12 V supply for any device that
connects
to the ECM wires directly).
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Dean Knoepfle <
speedfreek@uswest.net>
To: Team3S
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 08, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install
help!!
I am installing my ARM1 tomorrow and just wanted to verify the
pins
on
the ECU to tap into for the front and rear bank O2 sensors.
I have a
1994 VR4 and I was told the rear bank is #60 and the front bank
is
#75.
Is this correct?
2nd question: I am going to use a
toggle switch to be able to check
both front and rear with one gauge. I
would like 2 different pin #s
that I can use for grounds in the ECU for the
brown wire and then I
will use the ground the black wire to the
chasis.
Thanks for any input, Dean Knoepfle
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 08:22:12
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Timing belt problem
OK, I'll give this a shot. No there is no
problem, this is normal because
the cams (front bank on my car too, front
snapped forward, rear snapped
rearward) were under a load and also snapped
when we took the pressure off
the timing belt. I didn't count the
number of teeth but seven sounds right.
Anyway keep going, replace your
auto tensionor and get ready to install your
timing belt.
Now look at
this as an chance to make new friend or kindle old friendship,
because you'll
need help. Maybe since we do a lot of things with Hooters
you could get
a few Hooters Girls to come over and help, (just liked that
picture in my
mind, sorry).
Once you are ready to route the new timing belt around
you'll have to have
someone (or somebodies) put a wrench on the two front
cams that moved and
re-apply pressure by turning the cams back, into
position, so that the
timing marks are aligned in the correct position.
You may also have another
friend help hold the two rear cams as
well.
Now, a little trick I learn, is to set your crankshaft one mark
off. I had
to set mine one tooth up (or back) because once you
have everything back
together and pull the pin on the auto tensionor, it will
take up the slack
and pull your crankshaft up towards it. Of course you
find this only after
you pull the pin and waited the half hour, for the pin
to fully extend.
Hopefully this helps,
Dave Best
http://davebest.dsmpower.com/>
---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001
13:41:51 -0500
> > From: David Eckhardt <
capndave@peoplepc.com>
> >
To:
kempfsc@auburn.edu> >
Subject: Checking the Alignment of Timing Marks
> > Got a Quick
Question about Timing. I'm in the middle of a 120K tune up
> >
and when I aligned the sprocket markings and took the belt off the front
>
> two sprockets turned seven teeth to the right. Is this a bad thing.
How
> > do I fix it, just turn it clockwise, counterclockwise? Please
Help.
> > thanks, Dave
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 14:44:42
-0600
From: "Jaime Soto" <
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt or Corvette
I have a small
problem due to a financial situation. I am forced to sell
one of my cars in
order to be able to finish modifing the other. I have a 92
SL almost stock
no performance upgrades only slaved emblems and a GTO rear
light. My other
car is a 76 Corvette Stingray, that one I've had for a while
the Vette runs
a 11.02@ 125 on the 1/4 but it needs mild body work a brake
system and heavy
interior work. I would just love it if you could give me
your opinion with a
reason.
Thanks.
Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#515
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