Team3S             Saturday, June 9 2001             Volume 01 : Number 515




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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 15:51:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Timing belt problem

Hi all,

I received the e-mail below from a person who's obviously having some
problems with a timing belt replacement. Telling him what he needs to do
is a bit beyond my level of expertise. I thought someone on the list might
be willing to contact him at the e-mail address given below and point him
in the right direction.

Thanks,

Steve

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 13:41:51 -0500
> From: David Eckhardt <capndave@peoplepc.com>
> To: kempfsc@auburn.edu
> Subject: Checking the Alignment of Timing Marks
>
> Got a Quick Question about Timing.  I'm in the middle of a 120K tune up
> and when I aligned the sprocket markings and took the belt off the front
> two sprockets turned seven teeth to the right.  Is this a bad thing. How
> do I fix it, just turn it clockwise, counterclockwise? Please Help.
> thanks, Dave

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 15:42:36 -0700
From: Robert Koch <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: ABS brake problem

Here is the problem with my ABS brake system. As it turns out there is a
float in the master cylinder. Mine is sticking...this causes the ABS to
react the way it did. Now the float can stick  by a couple of causes. 1
over filled reservoir or pulled out rubber boot , 2 bad master cylinder,
and dirty or discrepant brake fluid. My master cylinder is bad @ 103000
miles. It will cost me 362.00 for a replacement one through
Mitsubishi...dodge wanted 464.00. so always check your local mitsu dealer
before buying that dodge part.
I will most likely add ss brake lines to my car now since I will be opening
the system.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 17:58:39 -0600
From: "Dean Knoepfle" <speedfreek@uswest.net>
Subject: Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install help!!

I am installing my ARM1 tomorrow and just wanted to verify the pins on
the ECU to tap into for the front and rear bank O2 sensors.  I have a
1994 VR4 and I was told the rear bank is #60 and the front bank is #75.
Is this correct? 
2nd question:  I am going to use a toggle switch to be able to check
both front and rear with one gauge.  I would like 2 different pin #s
that I can use for grounds in the ECU for the brown wire and then I will
use the ground the black wire to the chasis.

Thanks for any input, Dean Knoepfle

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 13:17:10 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install help!!

> I am installing my ARM1 tomorrow and just wanted to verify the pins on
> the ECU to tap into for the front and rear bank O2 sensors.  I have a
> 1994 VR4 and I was told the rear bank is #60 and the front bank is #75.
> Is this correct?

For Turbo cars up to 1995 left is #75 and right #76

>  I would like 2 different pin #s
> that I can use for grounds in the ECU for the brown wire and then I will
> use the ground the black wire to the chasis.

Pin 92 for both

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 04:17:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install help!!

Dean,

I have posted the Service Manual "ECM" pin assignments for all years
at my web page below.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htm

The manual says pins 75 and 76 for front O2 and 60 for rear (up to
'95). It would be best to test the pins with a voltmeter to be sure.
The manual says to use pin 26 for ground. There are usually two
ground pins on the ECM. It is also easy to monitor voltages where the
wires insert into the ECM connector with the connector attached to
the ECM - do not short wires and use the ECM ground.

As far as grounds, I always thought it wise to use the +12V and
ground wires at the ECM when connecting to any ECM wire (that is to
NOT use a chassis ground or +12 V supply for any device that connects
to the ECM wires directly).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dean Knoepfle <speedfreek@uswest.net>
To: Team3S <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Air/Fuel Gauge install help!!

I am installing my ARM1 tomorrow and just wanted to verify the pins
on
the ECU to tap into for the front and rear bank O2 sensors.  I have a
1994 VR4 and I was told the rear bank is #60 and the front bank is
#75.
Is this correct? 
2nd question:  I am going to use a toggle switch to be able to check
both front and rear with one gauge.  I would like 2 different pin #s
that I can use for grounds in the ECU for the brown wire and then I
will use the ground the black wire to the chasis.

Thanks for any input, Dean Knoepfle

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 08:22:12 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Timing belt problem

OK, I'll give this a shot.  No there is no problem, this is normal because
the cams (front bank on my car too, front snapped forward, rear snapped
rearward) were under a load and also snapped when we took the pressure off
the timing belt.  I didn't count the number of teeth but seven sounds right.

Anyway keep going, replace your auto tensionor and get ready to install your
timing belt.

Now look at this as an chance to make new friend or kindle old friendship,
because you'll need help.  Maybe since we do a lot of things with Hooters
you could get a few Hooters Girls to come over and help, (just liked that
picture in my mind, sorry).

Once you are ready to route the new timing belt around you'll have to have
someone (or somebodies) put a wrench on the two front cams that moved and
re-apply pressure by turning the cams back, into position, so that the
timing marks are aligned in the correct position.  You may also have another
friend help hold the two rear cams as well.

Now, a little trick I learn, is to set your crankshaft one mark off.   I had
to set mine one tooth up (or back) because once you have everything back
together and pull the pin on the auto tensionor, it will take up the slack
and pull your crankshaft up towards it.  Of course you find this only after
you pull the pin and waited the half hour, for the pin to fully extend.

Hopefully this helps,

Dave Best
http://davebest.dsmpower.com/

> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 13:41:51 -0500
> > From: David Eckhardt <capndave@peoplepc.com>
> > To: kempfsc@auburn.edu
> > Subject: Checking the Alignment of Timing Marks
> > Got a Quick Question about Timing.  I'm in the middle of a 120K tune up
> > and when I aligned the sprocket markings and took the belt off the front
> > two sprockets turned seven teeth to the right.  Is this a bad thing. How
> > do I fix it, just turn it clockwise, counterclockwise? Please Help.
> > thanks, Dave

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 14:44:42 -0600
From: "Jaime Soto" <lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt or  Corvette

    I have a small problem due to a financial situation. I am forced to sell
one of my cars in order to be able to finish modifing the other. I have a 92
SL almost stock no performance upgrades only slaved emblems and a GTO rear
light. My other car is a 76 Corvette Stingray, that one I've had for a while
the Vette runs a 11.02@ 125 on the 1/4 but it needs mild body work a brake
system and heavy interior work. I would just love it if you could give me
your opinion with a reason.
Thanks.
Jaime

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S V1 #515
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