Team3S
Friday, June 8
2001
Volume 01 : Number
514
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Jun 2001 10:25:17 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost Controller Question (PRofec)
I have a GReddy PRofec in my
VR-4 currently set for approximately stock
boost (0.8bar). The only
"manual" (other than some indecipherable Japanese
stuff) I got with it when I
bought my car is the cursory information that
can be found at their
website.
I don't have installation instructions or detailed programming
instructions
in English, and I'd like to understand a little more details
about its
operation and installation. Anyone have a copy in English or
know where I
can get one?
The main reason for this is I'm trying to
figure out how to get it into
"learning mode" (P1/P2). It says for the
alternative learning mode, you
hold the power button for 5 seconds, but it
doesn't say how to enter the
"normal" learning mode, except stating that you
should run it whenever you
change something in the engine.
My
current settings are:
Set Boost: 0.8bar
High Boost/OTB: 0.9bar
OTB
time: 20 seconds
Alarm: 1.1bar
Wastegates: Actuator-type (not
external)
Last night, I decided to turn the "set boost" (baseline boost)
setting to
0.9bar to see how the car would do. It never got above
0.4bar (6psi). The
stock boost gauge, my aftermarket boost gauge, and
the boost controller all
agree on this reading. No boost above 0.4 bar,
which, I believe is the
boost controller's "safe setting". BTW, the
stock boost control solenoid is
capped off, as far as I can tell. Also,
the OTB/High Boost button has no
effect, so I'm pretty sure something's kooky
(yes, I did just use that word)
with the boost controller and that perhaps
rerunning the "learning" mode
will fix this problem.
Any
ideas?
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 32,000
mi
K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy PRofecA @0.8bar,
HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
Syntec 5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1 (R
Diff)
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html
********************* For Sale ************************
'95 Galaxy White
Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5MT) 78,000
mi
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK,
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTSale/3000GTSale.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:56:10
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost Controller Question (PRofec)
I was able to get a manual
in English faxed to me for my GReddy Profec B
from Alamo
Motorsports.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 12:25
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail); Starnet 3Si Mailing List (E-mail)
>
Subject: Team3S: Boost Controller Question (PRofec)
>
> I have a
GReddy PRofec in my VR-4 currently set for approximately stock
> boost
(0.8bar). The only "manual" (other than some indecipherable
>
Japanese
> stuff) I got with it when I bought my car is the cursory
information that
> can be found at their website.
>
> I don't
have installation instructions or detailed programming
>
instructions
> in English, and I'd like to understand a little more
details about its
> operation and installation. Anyone have a copy
in English or know where I
> can get one?
>
> The main reason
for this is I'm trying to figure out how to get it into
> "learning mode"
(P1/P2). It says for the alternative learning mode, you
> hold the
power button for 5 seconds, but it doesn't say how to enter the
> "normal"
learning mode, except stating that you should run it whenever you
> change
something in the engine.
>
> My current settings
are:
>
> Set Boost: 0.8bar
> High Boost/OTB: 0.9bar
>
OTB time: 20 seconds
> Alarm: 1.1bar
> Wastegates: Actuator-type
(not external)
>
> Last night, I decided to turn the "set boost"
(baseline boost) setting to
> 0.9bar to see how the car would do. It
never got above 0.4bar (6psi).
> The
> stock boost gauge, my
aftermarket boost gauge, and the boost controller
> all
> agree on
this reading. No boost above 0.4 bar, which, I believe is the
>
boost controller's "safe setting". BTW, the stock boost control
solenoid
> is
> capped off, as far as I can tell. Also, the
OTB/High Boost button has no
> effect, so I'm pretty sure something's
kooky (yes, I did just use that
> word)
> with the boost controller
and that perhaps rerunning the "learning" mode
> will fix this
problem.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> --Erik
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 32,000
mi
> K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy PRofecA
@0.8bar,
> HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy
Boost Gauge
> Syntec 5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC),
Mobil1 (R Diff)
> '94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla
75,000mi
>
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html>
> ********************* For Sale
************************
> '95 Galaxy White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
>
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK,
> SZ50EP
245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
>
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTSale/3000GTSale.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 16:55:08
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch replacement on a 6 speed VR4 (not for drag ra
cing)
Clutch (and other wearing items like brake pads) are never covered
by ANY
warranty. Mine specifically notes that it does NOT cover the
clutch. Sorry
you had to find out the hard way, Chuck.
FWIW I
was told that the stock clutch in a VR-4 is quite "beefy" and will
hold up to
most of what I put into it. I am not running crazy boost,
underdrive
pulleys, lightened flywheels, etc. so my car is still mostly
stock as far as
the engine/tranny goes.
Search the archives, Chuck (sorry - couldn't
resist). I know that Brad had
some good topics on the clutches as did
others.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
dschilberg@pobox.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001
1:58 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: clutch replacement on a 6 speed VR4 (not for
drag
racing)
Just got a $1200 quote for a stock clutch replacement by
a local Mitsu
dealer, not covered by my extended warranty (shit). Funny
thing is that the
clutch master and slave cylinders ARE
covered.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 19:31:41
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
clutch replacement on a 6 speed VR4 (not for drag racing)
You can
stay with the stock clutch if you aren't over 400hp. Mine slips
about there.
What is the 1200 dollars for? clutch and labor. I am having
mine done RPS
stage 2 with labor at a much better shop then any dealer I
have found for
under 1K dollars. Throw out bearing replacement is a must
as well for about
40 bucks or so. I would change the flywheel then too
if you are thinking
about upgrading to a lighter wheel.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
"Willis,
Charles E." wrote:
>
> I haven't been happy with the clutch pedal
travel since I bought the car
> last October. I finally got the clutch to
slip in 6th gear under boost.
>
> Just got a $1200 quote for a
stock clutch replacement by a local Mitsu
> dealer, not covered by my
extended warranty (shit). Funny thing is that the
> clutch master
and slave cylinders ARE covered.
>
> Any advantage to having
someone else do the work? I am not ambitious enough
> to try it
myself. ("A man's got to know his limitations.")
>
> The
lesson I took from preceding discussions is that there is significant
>
cost and risk associated with any aftermarket clutch and little benefit
for
> my type of driving (street and road courses, no drag
racing).
>
> Is there anything else I should have them do at the
same time?
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 19:34:56
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
HOLY SNIKEYS! Front tires wearing faster than backs
Sorry, is this
unusual for you. most of these cars always wear front
tires faster. Has
nothing to do with AWD and everything to do with PIG
weight predominantly in
the front.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Ken Stanton wrote:
>
> Wow... this absolutely amazed me. I've just now noticed that my
front
> tires are wearing much much much faster than my rears! I
bought the car
> with these tires on it, and they looked brandy new at
purchase.
>
> Now, I did just finish my 6-speed conversion, however
I checked the
> differential and transfer case and they surely are
6-speeder's.
>
> Am I going insane?
>
> Ken
Stanton
> '91 Pearl White R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 21:52:05
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Repair Shop Recommendation
I live in Sunnyvale CA, between San
Francisco and San Jose.
Can anyone recommend a good engine shop and a
good transmission shop for my
'91 VR-4 (no mods). I prefer a non-dealer if
possible -- someone who will
not try to recommend unnecessary repairs as I
have been getting from a local
dealer.
Thanks,
Edgar
Francisco
Sunnyvale, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 10:44:00
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Repair Shop Recommendation
Be sure to check out Dave Black's
page.. he has dealer ratings stuff on there:
www.daveblack.netKen Stanton
'91
Pearl White R/T TT
Edgar Francisco wrote:
> I live in Sunnyvale
CA, between San Francisco and San Jose.
>
> Can anyone recommend a
good engine shop and a good transmission shop for my
> '91 VR-4 (no mods).
I prefer a non-dealer if possible -- someone who will
> not try to
recommend unnecessary repairs as I have been getting from a local
>
dealer.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Edgar Francisco
>
Sunnyvale, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 09:31:21
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: ABS brakes
Has anyone experienced a problem like this? I go
over a set of train tracks
and my ABS light starts to flash.
At the pace
of a blinker the brakes will engage and disengage while pedal
pressure is
applied. My stealth is at this very moment being checked by the
dealer but
if somebody knows anything it would be greatly appreciated for
your
experience.
I will most definitely inform this board of the cause of this
problem so
others my know.
(please don't tell me my pads are
gone.........I'm not retarded)
Bob 93' R/T -no mods yet
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 11:22:11
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: ABS brakes
Two things to check. 1) The +12V
battery connection has a main wire and a
secondary wire. The secondary
wire may be loose, check the nut that holds
it on. 2) Check the fuse
box.
Jim 95 Spyder VR4
Has anyone experienced a problem like this?
I go over a set of train tracks
and my ABS light starts to flash.
At the
pace of a blinker the brakes will engage and disengage while pedal
pressure
is applied. My stealth is at this very moment being checked by the
dealer
but if somebody knows anything it would be greatly appreciated for
your
experience.
I will most definitely inform this board of the cause of this
problem so
others my know.
(please don't tell me my pads are
gone.........I'm not retarded)
Bob 93' R/T -no mods yet
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S V1
#514
*********************