Team3S             Thursday, June 7 2001             Volume 01 : Number 513




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 18:21:41 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

The only problem becomes if you want to upgrade the rotors reasonably. I
know my stock wheel (1st gen) has a drop center measurement of less then
13 inches. This isn't enough room for larger rotors, I found even for my
322 mm disc.

Rich
92 Stealth TT

Merritt wrote:
>
> >I'm pretty sure you meant "somebody with spacers _and_ BIG REDS should
> >try..."  and I just wanted to make sure everyone else understood that..
> >sorry if I'm being rediculous about this..  just trying to save someone
> >the aggrevation I had to deal with..
>
> Yep, I should have been more explicit. It's a very good point, and worthy
> of discussion. IF the spacers  work, it would save anyone with a 1st gen
> car from buying a set of wheels when they buy Big Reds. Like I shoulda
> said, I have spacers and Big Reds, so if anyone in Iowa or nearby wants to
> see if a 1st gen wheel will fit over Big Reds, I volunteer my car as a test
> bed.
>
> Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:29:34 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

First Gen 3000 wheels.  I have yet to confirm that the Stealth 1gen wheels
will fit over the brakes.

To clarify:  Some welds on the 1gen 3000 wheels are sloppy.  I had to
grind/smooth the weld so that it would clear the caliper.    (1/16" is
actually about the clearance, not 1/8")

If I have led anyone to believe that 1gen stealth wheels will fit, I
apologize.  I have NOT tested them.


Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of WALTER D. BEST
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 7:58 PM
To: Dave Monarchi; Merritt
Cc: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

OK folks from what I understood from Brad Bedell was that yes the big Red
will indeed fit the 1st gen wheels.  At least, that is what he has told me.
I will soon be finding out for sure when Flash and I meet up at the Blue
Ridge Gathering in Pigeon Forge TN, the weekend of the 22-24 June.  At least
I will try one wheel and find out for sure.  I know it will be tight, but
according to Brad it should work.  If they do work, I'll also be getting a
set real soon there after.

What Brad told me was that on some of the first generation wheels they had
to grind down the wields a bit and shave off a little from the calipers, but
after doing that most cleared by 1/8" or so.  I have Kinesis Wheels and I do
have a little more room between the stock caliper (1st Gen) and the wheel
then the stock wheels, but they are still 17"ers.

Hopefully we will have a positive answer soon,

Dave Best
Don't have room to list my mods, but I have most of them listed on my web
page: http://davebest.dsmpower.com/.  Of course this doesn't include the HKS
Fuel pump, 2nd gen rear brake conversion, SS lines, or ARC-2 I have in the
garage waiting for time to install them.  This week has been taken up
installing air ducting for the HKS Intercoolers, a grill and a set of Fram
air horns.  I hope to have the 2nd generation rear brake conversion done by
the time we take on Deals Gap.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "Dave Monarchi" <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Cc: "Team3S List (E-mail)" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?


> >I'm pretty sure you meant "somebody with spacers _and_ BIG REDS should
> >try..."  and I just wanted to make sure everyone else understood that..
> >sorry if I'm being rediculous about this..  just trying to save someone
> >the aggrevation I had to deal with..
>
> Yep, I should have been more explicit. It's a very good point, and worthy
> of discussion. IF the spacers  work, it would save anyone with a 1st gen
> car from buying a set of wheels when they buy Big Reds. Like I shoulda
> said, I have spacers and Big Reds, so if anyone in Iowa or nearby wants to
> see if a 1st gen wheel will fit over Big Reds, I volunteer my car as a
test
> bed.
>
> Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 18:24:52 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission Upgrade

Thanks for the info, and that is exactly why I am asking because the
tranny by Kormex isn't being designed to handle 550 HP regularly. They
mostly have stock replacements.

Rich
92 Stealth TT

Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
> Last I heard was that Altered Atmosphere was also rebuilding our trannies
> using the Kormex parts.
>
> Just so people understand, according to Kormex themselves, the synchros are
> NOT upgrades.  They are simply replicas of the factory parts that are not
> available for purchase.  Kormex told me "they seem to grip better than the
> used factory synchros we tested..." so they might not be an improvement at
> all.
>
> Kormex hardly even warranties the equipment, like 90 days or less.  No
> thanks, I'll explore other options.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
> To: "Team3S (E-mail)" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 5:08 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission Upgrade
>
> > Is kormex the only company has built the *supposedly* upgraded synchros?
> >
> > Joshua Prince
> > 97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
> > 3SI#0136
> > Microsoft Certified System Engineer
> > Joshua@Unconundrum.com
> >
> >  -----Original Message-----
> > From: Richard [mailto:radanc@home.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 4:58 PM
> > To: Floyd, Jim
> > Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission Upgrade
> >
> > Yeah, I was hoping of something better, but I know Kormex is just about
> > the only place messing with the tranny. Thanks!
> >
> > "Floyd, Jim" wrote:
> > >
> > > Rich,
> > >
> > >         The last E-mail I saw from Jack T. he said he was not doing
> > anything
> > > on our transmissions.
> > >         Do you know about Kormex ?
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Richard [mailto:radanc@home.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 5:23 PM
> > > Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
> > > Subject: Team3S: Transmission Upgrade
> > >
> > > Searching the old posts it seemed like Jack T was working on an
> > upgrade
> > > to the Getrag tranny. Jack or anyone out there anyone know of anything
> > > that exists or anyone capable of doing this. I think this is worth
> > some
> > > effort since this seems to be the weak link in the drive train once
> > you
> > > upgrade the standard parts. I can't see the value of going through
> > > multiple getrag trannys if this could be done. Any information or tips
> > > would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Rich
> > > 92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 18:26:06 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission Upgrade

This would be most appreciated, and again I am looking for upgrade not
replacement since the stock tranny isn't really made for the high output
with significant upgrades.

Rich

"Floyd, Jim" wrote:
>
>         I did see an E-mail come through about a company in the SE that was
> rebuilding our trannys.
>         I'll see if I can get the number for you.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard [mailto:radanc@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 2:58 PM
> To: Floyd, Jim
> Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission Upgrade
>
> Yeah, I was hoping of something better, but I know Kormex is just about
> the only place messing with the tranny. Thanks!
>
> "Floyd, Jim" wrote:
> >
> > Rich,
> >
> >         The last E-mail I saw from Jack T. he said he was not doing
> anything
> > on our transmissions.
> >         Do you know about Kormex ?
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Richard [mailto:radanc@home.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 5:23 PM
> > Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
> > Subject: Team3S: Transmission Upgrade
> >
> > Searching the old posts it seemed like Jack T was working on an upgrade
> > to the Getrag tranny. Jack or anyone out there anyone know of anything
> > that exists or anyone capable of doing this. I think this is worth some
> > effort since this seems to be the weak link in the drive train once you
> > upgrade the standard parts. I can't see the value of going through
> > multiple getrag trannys if this could be done. Any information or tips
> > would be appreciated.
> >
> > Rich
> > 92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 18:36:58 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

For what its worth I measured my 1st gen stealth TT 5 spoke alloy wheel
for the F-40s and I could have done it with a larger spacer then I would
have wanted, but they couldn't accomodate the 322 mm discs I wanted.
This was the major problem with the stock wheels.
By the way they are for sale if anyone wants them.

Rich
92 Stealth TT

Brad Bedell wrote:
>
> First Gen 3000 wheels.  I have yet to confirm that the Stealth 1gen wheels
> will fit over the brakes.
>
> To clarify:  Some welds on the 1gen 3000 wheels are sloppy.  I had to
> grind/smooth the weld so that it would clear the caliper.    (1/16" is
> actually about the clearance, not 1/8")
>
> If I have led anyone to believe that 1gen stealth wheels will fit, I
> apologize.  I have NOT tested them.
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of WALTER D. BEST
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 7:58 PM
> To: Dave Monarchi; Merritt
> Cc: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?
>
> OK folks from what I understood from Brad Bedell was that yes the big Red
> will indeed fit the 1st gen wheels.  At least, that is what he has told me.
> I will soon be finding out for sure when Flash and I meet up at the Blue
> Ridge Gathering in Pigeon Forge TN, the weekend of the 22-24 June.  At least
> I will try one wheel and find out for sure.  I know it will be tight, but
> according to Brad it should work.  If they do work, I'll also be getting a
> set real soon there after.
>
> What Brad told me was that on some of the first generation wheels they had
> to grind down the wields a bit and shave off a little from the calipers, but
> after doing that most cleared by 1/8" or so.  I have Kinesis Wheels and I do
> have a little more room between the stock caliper (1st Gen) and the wheel
> then the stock wheels, but they are still 17"ers.
>
> Hopefully we will have a positive answer soon,
>
> Dave Best
> Don't have room to list my mods, but I have most of them listed on my web
> page: http://davebest.dsmpower.com/.  Of course this doesn't include the HKS
> Fuel pump, 2nd gen rear brake conversion, SS lines, or ARC-2 I have in the
> garage waiting for time to install them.  This week has been taken up
> installing air ducting for the HKS Intercoolers, a grill and a set of Fram
> air horns.  I hope to have the 2nd generation rear brake conversion done by
> the time we take on Deals Gap.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> To: "Dave Monarchi" <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
> Cc: "Team3S List (E-mail)" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 7:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?
>
> > >I'm pretty sure you meant "somebody with spacers _and_ BIG REDS should
> > >try..."  and I just wanted to make sure everyone else understood that..
> > >sorry if I'm being rediculous about this..  just trying to save someone
> > >the aggrevation I had to deal with..
> >
> > Yep, I should have been more explicit. It's a very good point, and worthy
> > of discussion. IF the spacers  work, it would save anyone with a 1st gen
> > car from buying a set of wheels when they buy Big Reds. Like I shoulda
> > said, I have spacers and Big Reds, so if anyone in Iowa or nearby wants to
> > see if a 1st gen wheel will fit over Big Reds, I volunteer my car as a
> test
> > bed.
> >
> > Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 15:57:56 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

Thanks for all the responses, guys!

> I think it would be worth an $84 investment in
> spacers to find out. At best, it would provide enough clearance to
> eliminate the need to buy new wheels. At the worst, you'd
> have a set of spacers to spread your front wheel track, and that's a good
> thing all by itself.

Yeah, I might go that route eventually, but lemme make sure I understand
things correctly...  a spacer fits between the wheel and the hub,
effectively moving the wheel out (widening the track), right? 

If that's right, I don't see how a spacer will help in my case.  The
clearance problem is not that the wheel spokes do not clear the side of the
caliper (with the "MITSUBISHI" on it), it's that the inner diameter of the
wheel itself rubs against the back of the stock caliper.  The spokes of the
wheel clear the caliper ok (very tight tolerance, but not that different
from 2G wheels). 

Unless I were to get a spacer that would extend the wheel so far out that
the caliper would no longer be inside the wheel, I'm not sure I see how a
spacer will help.  But if I did that, I'd have to lower the car to 0.1" off
the ground and put 10" wheels on it...

Am I missing some thing here?  I guess what I'm trying to figure out (may be
a Big Red person can measure this) is whether the distance from the center
of the wheel to the outer edge of the caliper is smaller for the Big Reds
than the stock calipers.  To make my 17" wheels work, the total diameter of
the "stuff" inside the wheel would need to be about 1/4" smaller, maybe a
little more.

- --Erik


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:56:03 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

From center of hub to outer most of the caliper:  6.3/4"
From flat area of rotor (where wheel touches) to outermost of caliper:  2
7/8"


Hope that helps.  These numbers are rounded to the nearest 1/8" (rounded
larger)



Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


Am I missing some thing here?  I guess what I'm trying to figure out (may be
a Big Red person can measure this) is whether the distance from the center
of the wheel to the outer edge of the caliper is smaller for the Big Reds
than the stock calipers.  To make my 17" wheels work, the total diameter of
the "stuff" inside the wheel would need to be about 1/4" smaller, maybe a
little more.
- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 22:52:56 EDT
From: ViPeR41879@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!

Well after all my trouble with trying to find some racing hart C5s. I finally found some, but the wheel widths are not the same. They are 18x8.5 on front and 18x9.5 on rear. Brand new for $2500. I'm not too keen on this wheel setup, but if thats all I can find, should I go for it? I'm planning on putting bridgestone potenza RE730s on them.......since I wont be able to rotate them, is that really a big deal. Would I really loose that much tire life by not being able to rotate them. That is my biggest concern since these tires are ~$200 each. And also do you all think 2500 is a good price for them?

In short, to cut to the chase if I buy four 8.5" width wheels and put RE730's on them, will the tire last much longer than if I went with the above wheel setup(using 8.5 and 9.5 width wheels)?

Sorry for such a long post, but this is very serious stuff to me.

Thanks again guys for any responses,
Nathan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 20:52:22 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

No, You are right a spacer won't help that. You need more room diameter
wide in the wheel. A spacer will not achieve this.

Rich

"Gross, Erik" wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the responses, guys!
>
> > I think it would be worth an $84 investment in
> > spacers to find out. At best, it would provide enough clearance to
> > eliminate the need to buy new wheels. At the worst, you'd
> > have a set of spacers to spread your front wheel track, and that's a good
> > thing all by itself.
>
> Yeah, I might go that route eventually, but lemme make sure I understand
> things correctly...  a spacer fits between the wheel and the hub,
> effectively moving the wheel out (widening the track), right?
>
> If that's right, I don't see how a spacer will help in my case.  The
> clearance problem is not that the wheel spokes do not clear the side of the
> caliper (with the "MITSUBISHI" on it), it's that the inner diameter of the
> wheel itself rubs against the back of the stock caliper.  The spokes of the
> wheel clear the caliper ok (very tight tolerance, but not that different
> from 2G wheels).
>
> Unless I were to get a spacer that would extend the wheel so far out that
> the caliper would no longer be inside the wheel, I'm not sure I see how a
> spacer will help.  But if I did that, I'd have to lower the car to 0.1" off
> the ground and put 10" wheels on it...
>
> Am I missing some thing here?  I guess what I'm trying to figure out (may be
> a Big Red person can measure this) is whether the distance from the center
> of the wheel to the outer edge of the caliper is smaller for the Big Reds
> than the stock calipers.  To make my 17" wheels work, the total diameter of
> the "stuff" inside the wheel would need to be about 1/4" smaller, maybe a
> little more.
> --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 00:16:11 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Super stiff clutch AWD

Anyone have/have had a super stiff clutch petal?  I've replaced clutch
and tranny, so I don't think its them (unrelated).

Thanks!

Ken
'91 Pearl White Stealth R/T TT
6-speed conversion =)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 23:16:55 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

perhaps I'm flogging a dead horse as some might say, but:

Actually, the 25mm spacers _might_ work, but that would be a little
extreme..  not the right solution..  my wheels already stick out of
the fenders by about 1/4th" or so..  take a look at my pictures
again..  I added a third that shows the sloping "ledges" on the
inside of the wheel..  spacing the wheel out another 10mm might
do it, but it's kind of a moot point since that's not the answer..  

pics:  http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/wheels.html

I originally put my 15mm spacers on to solve 2 problems:

1) clear the interference on the inside of the wheel so I could
   use a set of 1st gen wheels on my 95 VR4 for the winter..
   --- DOESN'T WORK for stock 2nd gen calipers! ---

2) help eliminate the major understeer or "push" our cars have..
   --- somewhat worked..  definitely has taken some time to get
   used to, but I ran two autocross events with the spacers on
   and it seemed to help a bit..  _however_ the car is also a
   bit "twitchier" now in daily driving..  picked up some
   mild vibration too..

keep in mind that your investment doesn't include LABOR!!!  if
you're lucky enough to have a hub that comes apart easily, or
have the right tools, it may be no problem..  I ended up paying
my mechanic to do mine and was over $200 labor..  remember you
have to swap out 10 studs to put this style of spacer on..

hope this has been useful and not a waste of bandwidth..


Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =    http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================

- --------

+> No, You are right a spacer won't help that. You need more room diameter
+> wide in the wheel. A spacer will not achieve this.
+>
+> Rich
+>
+> "Gross, Erik" wrote:
+> >
+> > Thanks for all the responses, guys!
+> >
+> > > I think it would be worth an $84 investment in
+> > > spacers to find out. At best, it would provide enough clearance to
+> > > eliminate the need to buy new wheels. At the worst, you'd
+> > > have a set of spacers to spread your front wheel track, and that's a goo
d
+> > > thing all by itself.
+> >
+> > Yeah, I might go that route eventually, but lemme make sure I understand
+> > things correctly...  a spacer fits between the wheel and the hub,
+> > effectively moving the wheel out (widening the track), right?
+> >
+> > If that's right, I don't see how a spacer will help in my case.  The
+> > clearance problem is not that the wheel spokes do not clear the side of th
e
+> > caliper (with the "MITSUBISHI" on it), it's that the inner diameter of the
+> > wheel itself rubs against the back of the stock caliper.  The spokes of th
e
+> > wheel clear the caliper ok (very tight tolerance, but not that different
+> > from 2G wheels).
+> >
+> > Unless I were to get a spacer that would extend the wheel so far out that
+> > the caliper would no longer be inside the wheel, I'm not sure I see how a
+> > spacer will help.  But if I did that, I'd have to lower the car to 0.1" of
f
+> > the ground and put 10" wheels on it...
+> >
+> > Am I missing some thing here?  I guess what I'm trying to figure out (may
be
+> > a Big Red person can measure this) is whether the distance from the center
+> > of the wheel to the outer edge of the caliper is smaller for the Big Reds
+> > than the stock calipers.  To make my 17" wheels work, the total diameter o
f
+> > the "stuff" inside the wheel would need to be about 1/4" smaller, maybe a
+> > little more.
+> > --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 23:29:52 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: sunroof regulator  (was: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels? )

- --------

+> the fenders by about 1/4th" or so..  take a look at my pictures

uh, I originally wrote 1/8th and then realized it was more and forgot
to drop the th..  I really hate it when I forget to proof my posts..
:P

k..  enough of this nonsense..


anyone parting out a car with a manual glass sunroof?  I'm still in
search of a used regulator (the crank mechanism)..   reply privately
please..

Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =    http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 09:28:14 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Super stiff clutch AWD

You probably mounted the vacuum hose between the intake manifold and clutch booster the wrong way. It has a check valve inside so it's important that it's mounted in the right direction.

Mikael Kenson
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 6:16 AM
Subject: Team3S: Super stiff clutch AWD


> Anyone have/have had a super stiff clutch petal?  I've replaced clutch
> and tranny, so I don't think its them (unrelated).
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ken
> '91 Pearl White Stealth R/T TT
> 6-speed conversion =)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 04:23:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

Hi Erik,

The answer is NO.  The Stealth 1st gen rims will not
clear the second gen caliper/rotor combination.  (Its
the inner dia near the weld that does not clear). 

The almost good news is that the BIG RED combination
is closer to fitting, but still will NOT clear.


Be of good cheer,
John


- --- "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com> wrote:
> Thanks for all the responses, guys!
>
> > I think it would be worth an $84 investment in
> > spacers to find out. At best, it would provide
> enough clearance to
> > eliminate the need to buy new wheels. At the
> worst, you'd
> > have a set of spacers to spread your front wheel
> track, and that's a good
> > thing all by itself.
>
> Yeah, I might go that route eventually, but lemme
> make sure I understand
> things correctly...  a spacer fits between the wheel
> and the hub,
> effectively moving the wheel out (widening the
> track), right? 
>
> If that's right, I don't see how a spacer will help
> in my case.  The
> clearance problem is not that the wheel spokes do
> not clear the side of the
> caliper (with the "MITSUBISHI" on it), it's that the
> inner diameter of the
> wheel itself rubs against the back of the stock
> caliper.  The spokes of the
> wheel clear the caliper ok (very tight tolerance,
> but not that different
> from 2G wheels). 
>
> Unless I were to get a spacer that would extend the
> wheel so far out that
> the caliper would no longer be inside the wheel, I'm
> not sure I see how a
> spacer will help.  But if I did that, I'd have to
> lower the car to 0.1" off
> the ground and put 10" wheels on it...
>
> Am I missing some thing here?  I guess what I'm
> trying to figure out (may be
> a Big Red person can measure this) is whether the
> distance from the center
> of the wheel to the outer edge of the caliper is
> smaller for the Big Reds
> than the stock calipers.  To make my 17" wheels
> work, the total diameter of
> the "stuff" inside the wheel would need to be about
> 1/4" smaller, maybe a
> little more.
> --Erik

=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 04:29:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT wheels?

Hi Walter,

Yes, some 17" aftermarket rims will fit the second gen
system.  If they clear the second gen, then they will
have MORE room with the BIG REDS.

Ge of good cheer,
John

- --- "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com> wrote:
> OK folks from what I understood from Brad Bedell was
> that yes the big Red
> will indeed fit the 1st gen wheels.  At least, that
> is what he has told me.
> I will soon be finding out for sure when Flash and I
> meet up at the Blue
> Ridge Gathering in Pigeon Forge TN, the weekend of
> the 22-24 June.  At least
> I will try one wheel and find out for sure.  I know
> it will be tight, but
> according to Brad it should work.  If they do work,
> I'll also be getting a
> set real soon there after.
>
> What Brad told me was that on some of the first
> generation wheels they had
> to grind down the wields a bit and shave off a
> little from the calipers, but
> after doing that most cleared by 1/8" or so.  I have
> Kinesis Wheels and I do
> have a little more room between the stock caliper
> (1st Gen) and the wheel
> then the stock wheels, but they are still 17"ers.
>
> Hopefully we will have a positive answer soon,
>
> Dave Best
> Don't have room to list my mods, but I have most of
> them listed on my web
> page: http://davebest.dsmpower.com/.  Of course this
> doesn't include the HKS
> Fuel pump, 2nd gen rear brake conversion, SS lines,
> or ARC-2 I have in the
> garage waiting for time to install them.  This week
> has been taken up
> installing air ducting for the HKS Intercoolers, a
> grill and a set of Fram
> air horns.  I hope to have the 2nd generation rear
> brake conversion done by
> the time we take on Deals Gap.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> To: "Dave Monarchi" <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
> Cc: "Team3S List (E-mail)"
> <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 7:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Big Reds with 17" 1G Stealth TT
> wheels?
>
>
> > >I'm pretty sure you meant "somebody with spacers
> _and_ BIG REDS should
> > >try..."  and I just wanted to make sure everyone
> else understood that..
> > >sorry if I'm being rediculous about this..  just
> trying to save someone
> > >the aggrevation I had to deal with..
> >
> > Yep, I should have been more explicit. It's a very
> good point, and worthy
> > of discussion. IF the spacers  work, it would save
> anyone with a 1st gen
> > car from buying a set of wheels when they buy Big
> Reds. Like I shoulda
> > said, I have spacers and Big Reds, so if anyone in
> Iowa or nearby wants to
> > see if a 1st gen wheel will fit over Big Reds, I
> volunteer my car as a
> test
> > bed.
> >
> > Rich

=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 06:50:06 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

Ya know, it really gets frustrating.  I ask for some recommendations
regarding boost/egt levels and I don't even get one response.  Someone asks
about wheel clearances and they get 50!  What do I have to do...talk about
Driven or The Fast and Furious...to get any responses?  I though this was a
tech list and the place to ask.  Someone has to have a similar setup as I
with some history and some theories about cylinder pressures.  Maybe I have
to re-sub to the Starnet List!

Mark Wendlandt(Disgruntled list member)
'91RT/TT


>From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
>To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons
>Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 19:23:42 -0500
>
>If I were to take all precautions against detonation, what is the maximum
>boost that the stock pistons can handle.  I know that there are several of
>you out there that have found the melt down point(Jack, Arty and probably
>everyone else with forged pistons)..but, what is felt is the same limit? 
>It
>is just a function of boost(i.e. stay under 20psi) or more of EGTs(i.e.
>stay
>under 1900F.)
>
>I'm going to be running race gas(110) and have datalog capabilities as well
>as EGT probes.  I have 15Gs with RC560s and an ARC2 controller.
>
>I'm not ready to tear into the motor quite yet and I don't want to be
>reckless.
>
>What is everyone comfortable with?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark Wendlandt
>'91RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 08:22:50 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!

Any of our AWD cars MUST have the exact same size wheel and tire or else you
risk breaking the center and rear differential on the car.  I am not sure
about the non-AWD cars but imagine we treat those as classic FWD cars that
can have different front and rear sizes.

You didn't tell us what car you have so we can not help.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with four 18x8.5 and four 245/40/18
dschilberg@pobox.com <mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com>

- -----Original Message-----
From: ViPeR41879@aol.com [mailto:ViPeR41879@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 10:53 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!

Well after all my trouble with trying to find some racing hart C5s. I
finally found some, but the wheel widths are not the same. They are 18x8.5
on front and 18x9.5 on rear. Brand new for $2500. I'm not too keen on this
wheel setup, but if thats all I can find, should I go for it? I'm planning
on putting bridgestone potenza RE730s on them.......since I wont be able to
rotate them, is that really a big deal. Would I really loose that much tire
life by not being able to rotate them. That is my biggest concern since
these tires are ~$200 each. And also do you all think 2500 is a good price
for them?

In short, to cut to the chase if I buy four 8.5" width wheels and put
RE730's on them, will the tire last much longer than if I went with the
above wheel setup(using 8.5 and 9.5 width wheels)?

Sorry for such a long post, but this is very serious stuff to me.

Thanks again guys for any responses,
Nathan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 08:25:33 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

(I'll step in before the Admins slice you apart)

Have you tried searching the archives?  If it has been discussed then it is
in there.
Have you tried Jeff Lucius' page?  He generally has all major topics
covered.
Roger Gerl (turbo God) also has some good stuff I believe.

And not everyone will have time to deal with JUST your problem since not
everyone is running high boost, large injectors, or different ECU
configurations.  EVERYONE runs wheels and tires on their car though so that
is obviously an easier thing to discuss.

Good luck.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines, Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Wendlandt [mailto:stealth_tt@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 7:50 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

Ya know, it really gets frustrating.  I ask for some recommendations
regarding boost/egt levels and I don't even get one response.  Someone asks
about wheel clearances and they get 50!  What do I have to do...talk about
Driven or The Fast and Furious...to get any responses?  I though this was a
tech list and the place to ask.  Someone has to have a similar setup as I
with some history and some theories about cylinder pressures.  Maybe I have
to re-sub to the Starnet List!

Mark Wendlandt(Disgruntled list member)
'91RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 10:09:08 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!

I think an SL (FWD) can have different front and back sizes then but I do
not have that so I can't help.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: ViPeR41879@aol.com [mailto:ViPeR41879@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 9:58 AM
To: DSchilberg@freemarkets.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!

Oh I have a 94 3000GT SL......I sent it to the starnet list also and sent
later emails telling what car I have, but forgot to send it to you guys
also.  Sorry about that.

Nathan
94 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 10:43:31 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Super stiff clutch AWD

I checked the check valve hose.. it is fine.  When I took it off, there was still residual pressure in the line.

I've been having trouble shifting at times, especially at a stop.  Sometimes the clutch won't disengage and when I go for a gear it will either move the car or grind (grind 3rd gear only).

Any idea what I'm up against here?

Ken

Mikael Kenson wrote:

> You probably mounted the vacuum hose between the intake manifold and clutch booster the wrong way. It has a check valve inside so it's important that it's mounted in the right direction.
>
> Mikael Kenson
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> To: "Team3S Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 6:16 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Super stiff clutch AWD
>
> > Anyone have/have had a super stiff clutch petal?  I've replaced clutch
> > and tranny, so I don't think its them (unrelated).
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Ken
> > '91 Pearl White Stealth R/T TT
> > 6-speed conversion =)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 09:58:51 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

>(I'll step in before the Admins slice you apart)
>
>Have you tried searching the archives?  If it has been discussed then it is
>in there.
>Have you tried Jeff Lucius' page?  He generally has all major topics
>covered.

Just because I didn't say "I spent hours searching the archives and every
website that I could" you assume that I didn't and the Admins are going to
slice me apart?!?!  I guess that I'm going to have to add that to my
signature for every post.  I was not asking about the stock boost gauge
accuracy or how to install a K&N air filter!  Not everything is in the
archives or has the answers that one is looking for.

>And not everyone will have time to deal with JUST your problem since not
>everyone is running high boost, large injectors, or different ECU
>configurations.  EVERYONE runs wheels and tires on their car though so
> >that is obviously an easier thing to discuss.

So everyone has wheels, but not everyone has "Big Reds" and is concerned
about whether or not they will fit(I guaranty more are running high boost
and larger injectors than Big Reds.)  I agree that it is an easier thing to
discuss, but that is why I belong to this list...to discuss things that are
technical and difficult to discuss.  I was naive to think that I might spark
a discussion about the structural limits of our engines.

I may not contribute a lot technically to the list(Matt), but I have worked
on a lot of these cars and feel that I know my way around them mechanically
and contribute when a topic comes up that I know about(not just think I know
about).

Mark (Yes, I searched the archives) Wendlandt
'91RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 10:05:11 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

I gotta admit, Mark asked a good question. I've been waiting for an answer
to it.
I'd answer it if I could, but I don't know diddly about our engines. I'd
like to hear an answer because I intend to add boost and larger injectors,
and want to keep everything at a safe level for extended on-track running.
I'm concerned about running 15 psi for 20 minutes at WOT and burning the
tops off my pistons. My plans are to run water injection, a Supra fuel pump
and Alamo intercoolers in hopes of avoiding problems.

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 11:50:46 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: HOLY SNIKEYS! Front tires wearing faster than backs

Wow... this absolutely amazed me.  I've just now noticed that my front
tires are wearing much much much faster than my rears!  I bought the car
with these tires on it, and they looked brandy new at purchase.

Now, I did just finish my 6-speed conversion, however I checked the
differential and transfer case and they surely are 6-speeder's.

Am I going insane?

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 17:52:28 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

>Ya know, it really gets frustrating.  I ask for some recommendations
>regarding boost/egt levels and I don't even get one response.  Someone
>asks about wheel clearances and they get 50!

Yes, true, because almost everybody have touched their wheels or changed
brakepads as well as calipers and disks. This is what most of us can do by
ourselfs but there are not many that ever touched our pistons ! What do you
want, true figures ore simple guesses ?

>   What do I have to do...talk about Driven or The Fast and Furious...to
> get any responses?  I though this was a tech list and the place to
> ask.  Someone has to have a similar setup as I with some history and some
> theories about cylinder pressures.

Boost till you drop and then you can tell ! Been there done that :(

>   Maybe I have to re-sub to the Starnet List!

Any time, but be prepared to get many unqualified answers. The fact you
don't got any answers is the fact that nobody wants to tell you any wrong
stuff.

But you asked for and here are my answers :

>>If I were to take all precautions against detonation, what is the maximum
>>boost that the stock pistons can handle.

14.7 psi

>>   I know that there are several of
>>you out there that have found the melt down point(Jack, Arty and probably
>>everyone else with forged pistons)..but, what is felt is the same limit?

What same limit ? My pistons broke, my rings broke but on what psi ? Maybe
on 15,16,17 psi .... who knows ??????

>>is just a function of boost(i.e. stay under 20psi) or more of EGTs(i.e. stay
>>under 1900F.)

No idea. Maybe boost today of 20 psi for 8.2 seconds, tomorrow 15 psi for
22 seconds ... who knows ? Maybe every day you can only run less boost as
the engine goes more and more south !

>>I'm going to be running race gas(110) and have datalog capabilities as well
>>as EGT probes.  I have 15Gs with RC560s and an ARC2 controller.

Cool, boost until you see knock and send us the logs. Increase boost then
until knock count increases above 13. Note the boost and you are at the
limit. But of course this will change with any different ambient !!

>>I'm not ready to tear into the motor quite yet and I don't want to be
>>reckless.
>>
>>What is everyone comfortable with?

I'm not feeling comfortable with any boost above 14.7 psi ....

No, this are the answers to your questions ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 11:29:55 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

> What do I have to do...talk about Driven or The Fast and
> Furious...to get any responses?

Wouldn't hurt.  If you aren't talking about brakes and wheels and tires
there isn't a wide range of knowlege here, unfortunately.  Not a whole lot
of interest in fast acceleration I guess.  I have yet to get an answer to
the extremely simple question I asked weeks ago about the fuel pressure
solenoid, and if you ask twice people jump on you.

I've spoken with someone who should know about such things and his
recommendation is to not exceed 22 psi on the stock pistons if you want to
retain some amount of longevity.  I'd say 20 psi is pretty safe if you are
using race gas (I've ran 20 psi on several tanks of race fuel and
compression on my motor is still excellent).  22 psi sounds like it is a
little on the edge, but still probably "do-able", although at some elevated
risk.

His opinion was that the stock castings just can't hold up to the pressure
stresses past 22 psi and start to fracture.  Once the fracturing starts, its
terminal.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 12:35:15 -0400
From: "Darrien Lao" <dlao2@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

>>If I were to take all precautions against detonation, what is the maximum
>>boost that the stock pistons can handle.

14.7 psi

>>   I know that there are several of
>>you out there that have found the melt down point(Jack, Arty and probably
>>everyone else with forged pistons)..but, what is felt is the same limit?

What same limit ? My pistons broke, my rings broke but on what psi ? Maybe
on 15,16,17 psi .... who knows ??????


- -------------------------------

The crucial detail that Roger neglects to mention is he blew up his motor on
a stock fuel system.  Several folks from 3SI are currently running well over
14.7 with upgraded fuel systems.  Obviously, anything past stock boost poses
a risk.  But what is life without risks?  I do agree with Roger on one point
though.  Log the hell out of it. We're never going to find any real advances
in these engines if everyone sticks to what's known to be "safe" and never
takes any risks in the name of innovation.  Mark, you may want to try
3si.org.  There's a lot of chaff to dig through, but there is a wealth of
technical information and knowledgeable people to talk to if you just spend
a little time looking.  Good luck.

Darrien Lao
dlao2@home.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 18:35:09 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Maximum boost with stock cast pistons

Ahh, damn, didn't finished the last sentence right ....

>No, this are the answers to your questions ?

I wanted to say : Are these the answers you were looking for ?

I'm out till Sat or even longer again, so please be patient to get any answers.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 12:57:57 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: clutch replacement on a 6 speed VR4  (not for drag racing)

I haven't been happy with the clutch pedal travel since I bought the car
last October. I finally got the clutch to slip in 6th gear under boost.

Just got a $1200 quote for a stock clutch replacement by a local Mitsu
dealer, not covered by my extended warranty (shit).  Funny thing is that the
clutch master and slave cylinders ARE covered.

Any advantage to having someone else do the work?  I am not ambitious enough
to try it myself.  ("A man's got to know his limitations.")

The lesson I took from preceding discussions is that there is significant
cost and risk associated with any aftermarket clutch and little benefit for
my type of driving (street and road courses, no drag racing).

Is there anything else I should have them do at the same time?

Chuck


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 14:00:59 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!

On the FWD you can mix any tire/rim size you want. 
It is just a matter of driving style and steering clearances, brake clearance(if modified) and handling consequences.  A one inch difference in rim width should not affect anything, as long as the fitted tire diameters are close.  You will likely have substantial spedometer error.

The front tires will undoubtedly wear much faster(twice as fast) than the rear but tire rotation should not be an issue if allignment is good. I drive somewhat reasonably on the street, and only a few times at the strip or track on street tires. I have only ever had to swap front to rear, about every 6 to 12 months, and replace with new tires on the front. The 6 to 12 months may give you a clue to what my 'reasonable' is on the street?

On the track I highly recommend Khumo or Gforce tires. On my FWD I also found recently a significant performance improvement at Willow Springs in having a larger tire DIAMETER and width on the rear wheels. 245/45-16 front and 255/50-16 on the rear. This is about 1.5" difference, so if anything,         
try to get a larger fitted diameter on the rear.

Kurt 96 NT Glacier Pearl

- -----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren [mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 5:23 AM
To: 'ViPeR41879@aol.com'; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!


Any of our AWD cars MUST have the exact same size wheel and tire or else you
risk breaking the center and rear differential on the car.  I am not sure
about the non-AWD cars but imagine we treat those as classic FWD cars that
can have different front and rear sizes.

You didn't tell us what car you have so we can not help.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with four 18x8.5 and four 245/40/18
dschilberg@pobox.com <mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com>

- -----Original Message-----
From: ViPeR41879@aol.com [mailto:ViPeR41879@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 10:53 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: Please I Need Tire Advice ASAP!!

Well after all my trouble with trying to find some racing hart C5s. I
finally found some, but the wheel widths are not the same. They are 18x8.5
on front and 18x9.5 on rear. Brand new for $2500. I'm not too keen on this
wheel setup, but if thats all I can find, should I go for it? I'm planning
on putting bridgestone potenza RE730s on them.......since I wont be able to
rotate them, is that really a big deal. Would I really loose that much tire
life by not being able to rotate them. That is my biggest concern since
these tires are ~$200 each. And also do you all think 2500 is a good price
for them?

In short, to cut to the chase if I buy four 8.5" width wheels and put
RE730's on them, will the tire last much longer than if I went with the
above wheel setup(using 8.5 and 9.5 width wheels)?

Sorry for such a long post, but this is very serious stuff to me.

Thanks again guys for any responses,
Nathan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S V1 #513
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