Team3S
Monday, June 4
2001
Volume 01 : Number
510
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jun 2001 14:46:04 -0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Anyone interested in stock vs FMIC data?
Hi Rich,
Could
you please send me any and all logs regarding those tests?
It would be
helpful for properly tuning my car :)
Thanks in
advance,
Noble
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rich Fowler
<
richfowler2@home.com>
To:
Team3s@Stealth-3000gt. St <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 01, 2001 8:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: Anyone interested in stock vs
FMIC data?
> This weekend, I'm planning on testing the stock
intercoolers in my car
> versus the front mount in Georges car (he doesn't
know this yet, but I'm
> sure he will not mind). We both have
similar mods 357s, ARC 2, Injectors,
> newly rebuild engines. I
going to use a dual input digital thermometer
with
> two wire
probes. That way, I can check constant readings and peak hold.
> I'm
plan on taking the temp before the drivers side intercooler and after
>
the intercooler and comparing the readings to what the FMIC temps
are
before
> and after the core. If we test idle temps, 15 psi
run through 3rd, idle
> after a hard run, and cruise, that should be
sufficient to get an idea of
> the benefits of the FMIC.
>
>
If anyone has suggestions or requests, let me know. I haven't seen
this
> done before on similar cars with similar mods at the same time
& day.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 16:07:53
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Anybody has a spare glove box?
I have a 95 VR4 and I need the
glovebox? I am removing some electronics the
previous owner had
installed in this car (that cut through the glove box),
and would like to
restore the stock look.
If anybody has a spare one laying around (from a
crashed or stripped
vehicle), please let me know how much you want. I
just checked the CAPS
program for a 93 base stealth versus my 95 VR4 and
noticed a discrepancy in
some parts. I would assume any 2nd gen glove
box would fit.
Thanks for any help.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
in
need of a glovebox
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:14:50
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: GC setup
I am going to be going ahead a Ground Control spring
setup and was wondering
what kind of spring rate I should go with. It
is mostly driven on the
weekends and I will be doing some more open track
events in the future. Any
input would be greatly
appreciated.
Francis
'96 R/T TT
(SAVC-R BC, Spearco WI,
Magnacore wires, NGK plugs .32, test pipe, Autometer
Boost Gauge, RPS TCC,
HKS MegaFlow intake, freeflow precats, Goodridge Steel
Braided Brake Lines,
Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors, R4S pads, 1G DSM
BOV)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 11:38:23
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: GC setup
>I am going to be going ahead a Ground Control
spring setup and was wondering
what kind of spring rate I should go
with. It is mostly driven on the
weekends and I will be doing some more
open track events in the future.
I run 550 front, 315 rear. It's a bit
stiff for the street, but works great
on the track. It doesn't cure all our
high speed push, but it takes out a
lot of it. Lots of negative camber gets
almost all the rest of it.
Decide now if you want to install camber
plates. You won't be able to get
more than about -0.5 to -1 deg camber out of
the stock alignment settings.
Most likely, it will align to stock specs, but
no more.
To get -3 deg, you need camber plates. Alas, the camber plates
remove about
3-4 from the top of the strut, because they replace the original
top spring
landing. This drops the car to the ground, and -- with short
springs -- you
have to adjust the GC suspension to maximum height to keep it
from scraping
the pavement (see
www.bazillionbooks.com, scroll down to
race photos,
Heartland Park, Nov 2000 to see my car with short GC springs and
camber
plates). To get it any higher, I need to buy longer springs at $90
per.
Discuss all this with GC BEFORE you order anything. If you think you
may
want camber plates in the future, buy longer springs.
I don't know
what happens if you install long springs without camber
plates. Maybe it just
sits at stock height. Again, discuss it with GC. The
best solution, of
course, is to buy the GC suspension and camber plates at
the same time.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
GC, Eibachs, camber plates
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 01:04:36
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: She's alive ! but ...
Ok, since a long time I'm doing my upgrade
project and run into several
problems with this stages.
Small
background :
- - 1st gen heads, special ported, gasket matched, flow
optimized and 3-angle
cut, custom made exhaust valveguides.... on a second
gen block (1991 heads,
1993 Euro block and cams)
- - ported and flow
enhanced intake manifold
- - flow optimized fuel rails (restriction inside
removed)
Problem 1 : gas leak
Now, yesterday she runned the
first time and I was shocked as she sounded
like a diesel :( Not only this,
but also it started to smell like gas so I
shut her off. About a liter of gas
dropped down to the ground ! After
investigation, I found out that three
inejctors were wet = sealing problems
within the fuel rail. I was carefully
enough not to damage the O-rings of
the 720cc RC but they definitely leaked.
After removing the fuel rails again
I found the problem. The machine shop did
a bad shop when trying (I must say
so) to put a 45° angle into the the
injector port at the fuel rail. On at
least three ports they scratched the
inside and a good sealing was not not
longer provided. O paid too less
attention in this as I thought to trust the
shop... bad luck. I replaced the
lines with the spare one I have around (the
original form my 2nd gen engine)
and changed the O-rings from the injectors
with those from the stock
injectors (the orange ones). No problems with gas
anymore
!
Problem 2 : Oil leak
Unfortunately, when she heated up some
smoke started to comming up the
intake plenum. Ok, I thought the 368s turbos
start to heat up but the fume
becomes more and more noticeable. I finally
found a small oil-lake on the
rear exhaust manifold aroudn a bolt. Of course
the oil became very hot there
and caused the fume. I tracked down the cause
for this and foudn a leaking
valve cover, exactly in the rear front edge of
the left bank... great :(
Have to take off the whole intake stuff again
(grrrr).
Problem 3 : tick-tick-tick (question)
Well it sounds
... horrible. I never heard that much ticking and it didn't
went away so far.
Oil pressure is great, thicker race oil used to start but
the sound is more
than annyoing. To my shame I don't know what lifters I
used. I checked my
spare cyl. heads and the lifters where in, but the 2nd
gen or the 1st gen
ones. Can someone describe me visual differences between
those two versions
of the lifters ?
Problem 4 : timing belt
I'm almost positive
that I skipped the belt on the crank one teeth during
installation. With the
UDP (my car is not a daily driver anymore) it's kinda
hard to check this and
it's a PITA to take off everything again just for
checking. Any advice of
visually or electrical checking with an Unorthodox
Pulley is highly welcome
:)
Problem 5 : intercooler pipe
Great, Murphy hit me again. I
used one pipe from an old FMIC IC kit from GT
Alley times (don't ask) to
connect the rear turbo outlet to the rest of the
IC stuff. Of course this
pipe doesn't fit below the throttle cable as well
as it touches the front
timing cover. So the pipe had to find its way above
that throttle cable and
now ... the hood doesn't close anymore. Cool ...
great quality stuff, LOL.
Ok, I will do my own stuff in this case so this is
the smallest of all
problems.
At the end, I can say that it runs as it should and that I had
to adjust the
ARC settings for the idle to keep it alive. It defintiely seems
to feel a
change due to the new optimized intake/exhaust paths. But this can
not be
said until the ECU fully relearend.
I'll keep you updated and
would highly appreciate any input regardign the
lifter differencies between
the gens as well as any tips regarding the
timing belt check with the
accessories belt in place.
Thanks
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S V1
#510
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