team3s
Wednesday, May 30
2001
Volume 01 : Number
507
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 May 2001 07:14:51 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
The Watkins Glen movies are great. How
fast are these cars going, both in
the turns and in the straights? How is
your 3s modified from stock. Finally,
can anyone take a spin on the
track?
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:19:27
-0600
From: "The Hedonist" <
rboehner@dimensional.com>
Subject:
Team3S: question for the guys that have done there own timing belt ...
Hi
guys... long time lurker...
I'm coming up on a timing belt change @
140 thou miles and I wanted to do
it my selve, but I have a few
questions....
1. After you got started, what did you find you needed you
didn't have?
2 with the belt, what else did you find you needed parts
wise from the
dealer?
3. special tools?? really needed or ?
My goal is to replace any parts needed and not have to do it again for
"awhile"
Thanks guys!
Roger
94 Vr4 dead stock.....and i
like it that way........
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:24:53
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Andy,
> The Watkins Glen
movies are great.
Thanks. I did not make them. A friend
forwarded me the site. Contact that
site for more info.
>
How fast are these cars going, both in the turns and in the straights?
We
were told that many people will ask us how fast we went on the track.
We
were told to not answer in mph since to a true racer this is
pointless. I
am still in the "D" group (novice/beginners) so we still
rely on that
sometimes but I am always learning better things.
Not to
be snooty but as an example, I can be going 90 mph in third or
fourth
gear. In third gear the RPMs are about 6,000 but in fourth it
would be
about 4,000. Getting through the turn in either gear is fine
but getting up
speed afterwards is much more difficult in fourth because it
is lower on the
torque curve than third gear.
So you get used to
looking at the tach (plus it has more accuracy and more
divisions on the
numbers than the speedo) and learn to go into a turn and
hit the brakes in
third gear and 6,000 RPM and if that went okay then try it
at 6,200
RPM. Then 6,500 RPM until you begin to approach that limit (also
called
the "pucker factor") where you no longer feel comfortable.
I don't know
how fast those cars were going. You can go super fast down
the
straights but lousy brakes mean you will go slow through the
corners. No
top end and a light car mean you can scream through the
turns and not brake.
For your enjoyment I was able to safely and
comfortably reach 120 mph on the
back stretch before braking (heel-and-toe
maneuver) for the Bus Stop turn
shifting from fourth to third while
remembering to pay attention to the
corner worker (with the funny hat) that I
just passed, the corner worker
through the Bus Stop chicane, checking the
gauges to watch oil pressure and
water temperature, watch the mirrors to see
if I should let someone pass me
at the next opportunity ... oh yeah ... and
breathe. See, there is nothing
to driving on a road course.
<grin>
And a Subaru Impreza or Porsche 911 is not 4,000 pounds so
don't think
comparing the speed or time from one car to another is any idea
of
apples-to-apples.
> How is your 3s modified from
stock.
Read my post. I believe it was in there (Big reds, seat,
harness, rollbar).
> Finally, can anyone take a spin on the
track?
Several people took spins ... literally. We call it
"extra-curricular
activity" or "off-road excursion." I know what you
meant ... yes, anyone
can take a spin but check the schedule of the track,
find a group that is
running, contact them, make sure your car will pass a
safety inspection, buy
all necessary items (helmet, long-sleeved cotton
shirt, long cotton pants,
etc.), pay the entrance fee, and drive. This
is the same for most tracks in
the US. They have schools that are
booked long ahead of time but many are
still open.
Check
http://www.drivingevents.com <
http://www.drivingevents.com>
for
listings of tracks by State as well as their schedules. These
also
sometimes have in-car videos and track times for your viewing
pleasure.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew D. Woll
[mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 10:15 AM
To:
Schilberg, Darren; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Watkins Glen track
report
The Watkins Glen movies are great. How fast are these cars going,
both in
the turns and in the straights? How is your 3s modified from stock.
Finally,
can anyone take a spin on the track?
Andy
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:26:34
-0600
From: "The Hedonist" <
rboehner@dimensional.com>
Subject:
Team3S: spark plug group buy
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 12:12:12 EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: NGK Platinum Spark Plug group buy??
Alright all you PITA's,
=) My distributor is going to let me buy the
stock plugs at a good
price if I get enough people intersted. If I did
this, who would be
in?
- - -Paul
Norwood, MA
ME ME ME... put me on your
list can we get a price range?
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:36:07
-0600
From: "The Hedonist" <
rboehner@dimensional.com>
Subject:
Team3S: spark plug prices..
The local price of the shelve here is
$ 18.00 each..... yeah... ten is wayyyyy
cool!
Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:46:05
-0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
molding clips (boring, but need info)
I have a very boring question
concerning molding clips. I need to remove
the rear Liftgate trim on my
'94 R/T TT so I can service the rear windshield
wiper. The thing keeps
slipping somewhere between the motor and the wiper
arm. My question is
how to remove the Liftgate trim properly without
trashing the retaining
clips, or is that impossible? And if it is, where
can I get
replacements? This has always been a problem for me, which
usually
results in me just ripping the molding off and salvaging as many
retaining
clips as I can. Then, of course the molding doesn't fit
snug
anymore.
Michael Donnelly
'94 R/T TT
62,000
miles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:45:54
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
My car has Irridium plugs in it right now, and it runs fine. I did have
a
> problem where two of the plugs seemed to either burn down or were
somehow
> hit by debris in the cylinder.
Sorry to say this
Matt...
Your car doesn't run fine if the plugs look like you describe, my
guess is that your car have big problems with detonation.
Check this site
to learn how to read your plugs
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpgand
let us know how they look compared to those pics.
Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 09:53:36
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Iridium Plugs
I use stock wires, and had HKS/NGK F40 plugs (2 heat ranges
colder than
stock).
I still use stock wires, and use NGK
plugs.
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 29, 2001
Subject: Re: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
> IIRC, Jack
did his best runs on stock wires and plugs.
> Jack, you
listening?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:53:41
-0400
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: need info -Good mitsu shops in NE-
Hi folks!
This is not a strictly technical topic, but it is useful.
I am looking for a
*good* (or hell, at least not bad) Mitsu shop in the NE
area.
What I am
looking for is some feedback about your experiences (good AND bad)
at Mitsu
shops in the area.
I have a car (it's actually an Eclipse) that needs to go
in for some
warranty work, but I don't want to hand it over to some
incompetent boobs
who will invariably screw something up.
All your
input is appreciated!
Please reply
privately.
Regards,
Dennis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:20:54
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: molding clips (boring, but need info)
I did this and it is
easy (removal, not trashing it that is).
Check to see if this is on
Lucius' webpage first.
Take out all the screws from the plastic trim on
the underside of the
liftgate.
Then carefully pry the plastic away
from the liftgate. There are clips that
just snap onto plastic fingers
or in holes. Just pry them apart and they
will snap out. This
will give you access to the rear wiper motor, etc.
You may need small
hands to get it all assembled back together. I seem to
recall when I
took this off to service the rear wing that I dropped a clip
and it is in the
depths back there now. Just a good hour or so of removal
and
re-assembly is needed.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com <
mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com>
1995
VR-4 with 61k (20k since last June 16 <grin>)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Donnelly, Michael [mailto:DonnellM@ctc.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 30, 2001 10:46 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: molding clips (boring, but need info)
I have a very boring
question concerning molding clips. I need to remove
the rear Liftgate
trim on my '94 R/T TT so I can service the rear windshield
wiper. The
thing keeps slipping somewhere between the motor and the wiper
arm. My
question is how to remove the Liftgate trim properly without
trashing the
retaining clips, or is that impossible? And if it is, where
can I get
replacements? This has always been a problem for me, which
usually
results in me just ripping the molding off and salvaging as many
retaining
clips as I can. Then, of course the molding doesn't fit
snug
anymore.
Michael Donnelly
'94 R/T TT
62,000
miles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:59:48
+0200 (W. Europe Daylight Time)
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
This is what I support too. Other wires are not
necessary at all and I go=
t my Magnecors only because they where red and
much more flexible. But th=
ey just don't hold well in the coils :(( The
plugs I will use are NGK plu=
gs two ranges colder too but coppers due to the
DIS4 ignition box.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- -------Original
Message-------
From: xwing
Date: Mittwoch, 30. Mai 2001 16:52:47
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
I use stock wires, and had HKS/NGK F40 plugs (2
heat ranges colder than
stock).
I still use stock wires, and use NGK
plugs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 17:28:37
+0200 (W. Europe Daylight Time)
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Compression & ECU Error questions...
Hi
George,
Just came back to the office from some project meeting in another
city.
> So what is the capability of the 357's in psi?? When
> does
it start to loose its efficiency?
No, this is not what I was talkng about.
With your high comression engine=
you cannot boost that high like
others do and therefore the 357 must run=
lower than tehy would liek to
;-)
> Yea.. i was not happy to discover that the pistons
> were
9:1.. but looking on the bright side, Im not out
> to make a high
boosting, 1/4 mile monster~ Maybe I'll
> have more advantage on the
streets and road courses...
> who knows~ =3D)
Whatch knock and you'll
be fine :)
> was the highest knock sum recorded in 3rd gear..
EGT
> peaked @ 930 degrees C in 3rd gear (was going higher,
> but I
just let go and shifted to 4th) The O2 were @
>..90v to .94v. I am still
trying to learn how to read
> the logs... where does it show if my RC550s
were being
> maxed out?
Please send me the log file so I can run around
with the mouse to find th=
e values. EGT and knock sound good so far :) I
will send you a write-up o=
n how to read the datalogs (I will include it
sometimes on my pages)
> What's the max EGT you recommend not getting
over?
> What should be the EGT read at crusing speeds(stoich)?
Hard to
say, hmmm, larger turbine wheel, less backpressure...I'd say to k=
eep it
below 950=B0C is not wrong.
> My ARC (prototype) was taken out (wires
cut) to be
> recalibated to the latest rev.. Im guessing the wires
>
werent connected properly when they put it back...
> anyways.. i re-did it
and reset the ECU.. and the
> error code is gone now.. =3D)
Good, but
do you notice any difference due to the newer revision
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:40:45
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Replacement Steering Column Acting UP
Hello again all,
Finally
got the car back after repairs from the theft and guess what!!
A whole new
bunch of problems.
The steering column was replaced and now the power
steering is hugely
heavier than it was and very jerky. The mechanic has
checked it out and
can't find anything wrong (he even tried to blame the worn
out front
tyres that were on it before the theft). It clicks a bit when I
turn it
lock to lock and once even felt like I had lost all
assistance.
Anyone any ideas?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
1993 Japanese import VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:40:40
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: spark plug prices..
I just bought NGK platinums for my VR-4 from
Conicelli Mitsubishi (along
with all the rest of the 60K service parts).
Their list price is $12.32.
With the Team 3S discount the price is $9.24
each.
Give 'em a call: 866-221-0913
Jim
94 VR-4
>
From: "The Hedonist" <
rboehner@dimensional.com>
>
Organization: Pax Terrestria
> Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:36:07
-0600
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: spark plug prices..
>
> The local price off the
shelf here is
> $ 18.00 each..... yeah... ten is wayyyyy cool!
>
> Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:26:28
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
> > My car
has Irridium plugs in it right now, and it runs
> > fine. I did
have a problem where two of the plugs
> > seemed to either burn down or
were somehow
> > hit by debris in the cylinder.
>
>
Sorry to say this Matt...
>
> Your car doesn't run fine if the
plugs look like you
> describe, my guess is that your car have big
problems with detonation.
>
> Check this site to learn how to read
your plugs
>
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpg>
and let us know how they look compared to those pics.
The two munched
plugs looked most like the detonation pictures. It was a
little
difficult to tell though. The insulators were fine, but the
electrode
was flattened against the insulator. Was difficult to tell
whether or
not the plug was actually hit by something. There is some
aluminum
present on the plugs.
http://206.147.106.20/deadplugs.jpgThe
plugs went bad at the top end of 3rd gear after accelerating WOT from
maybe
30 MPH to 110 MPH, 17 psi of boost with water injection.
Water
injection was functioning properly at the time. I did find out
later that
my HKS intercoolers were improperly assembled before installation
and had a
3/8" hole in each one so boost was blowing out. A/F ratio at
the time was
nearing 1V measured on the rear bank O2 sensor.
The two
plugs that died were in the two cylinders closest the throttle body
in the
rear bank.
I should have clarified that "my car has four Iridium plugs in
it right now
and currently is not experiencing problems, and I can't for sure
pin blame
on the plugs for what happened". :-)
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 09:53:03
-0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
Hi All,
thanks for everyone's
advice last week on why the car is failing emissions. So I changed the plugs and
leads and made sure everything went back together properly. The car doesnt seem
to run any better though. The plugs werent fouled but were worn and the color
looked good. I didnt have the gaskets to replace but all looked good - plenum to
inlet, EGR and throttle body. Well now the car idles when warm between about 500
and 900 but not steady. There is also quite a bad miss or hesitation at 4000 and
then again at 5500. After 5500 it misses badly. I had a look and can't see or
hear any leaks. i did however hear a clicking/ticking noise coming from a
valve/black box on the center of bulkhead (there were two i think). So my
question is where should I look next? could it be coil? somebody had mentioned
PCV (dont know what this is?). any help much appreciated.
ian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:11:46
EDT
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Failing Emissions Continued!
Ian,
I havent been following this the whole way through, so I apologize if i
make
any suggestions that have already been covered. It woudl seem to me
that if you have a hesitation at 4000 and then at 5500 and above, your
problem is probably fuel or computer related. The first thing that
comes to
mind is that your TPS (throttle positin sensor) might be
faulty. Its hard
to check one without the proper meter, but you might
want to see if you
notice your mis at the same throttle position every
time. The TPS is what
tells your computer how much fuel to
deliver. If the TPS has a dead spot,
your fuel wil cut off there -
causing a lean misfire. However, if your run
throught he whole range
at WOT and still hit the misses in the same spots,
its not the TPS.
Its just something to think about.
Also, PCV stands
for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Heres how it
works:
When combustion gases seep
past the piston rings during combustion
(blow-by), the gases entert the
crankcase and build up pressure. The
pressure builds up and exerts
itself on the oil pan gasket and crankshaft
seals. The gases also
condense in the crankcase and react with the oil,
forming what is commonly
known as sludge. It can also delude the oil,
causing the engine to be
improperly lubricated. The PCV valve is in plave to
catch these gases,
keeping them from being vented into the atmosphere (for
emissions
purposes). A faulty PCV valve can be very damaging to your engine,
but
Ive never seen it cause a misfire.
Hope ive been of some
help,
Joe
93 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:20:14
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
Matt
IMHO you had
better turn down the boost ----- damaged electrodes and electrodes
spattered
with aluminum is a sign of detonation --- the aluminum is most likely
from
the pistons.
Do you have an EGT guage ??? If not it could help in
determining what's
going
on.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
The two munched plugs looked most like the detonation pictures. It was
a
> little difficult to tell though. The insulators were fine, but
the
> electrode was flattened against the insulator. Was difficult
to tell
> whether or not the plug was actually hit by something.
There is some
> aluminum present on the plugs.
>
>
http://206.147.106.20/deadplugs.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:40:23
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
PCV valve = Positive Crankcase
Ventilation valve. It costs $3.60 at
O'Reilly's or $20 at
Mitsubishi. It is screwed into the front valve cover
passenger side
facing aft with a big black hose clamped onto it. It takes a
14 mm
wrench.
Don't suppose you did a compression test when you had the intake
plenum off?
Sometimes a bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) can cause
ragged idle, but
usually you have a miss or hesitation at the same physical
position of the
throttle, without regard to rpm. If, you're in the same
gear, the rpm is of
course the same. This might be the next thing to
look at.
Are you sure you don't have a vaccum leak? There was a
description of a
homemade leak tester on the list some time
back.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ian
sweeney [SMTP:sween3000gt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001
11:53 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
>
> Hi All,
>
> thanks for everyone's advice last week on why the car is
failing
> emissions. So I changed the plugs and leads and made sure
everything went
> back together properly. The car doesnt seem to run any
better though. The
> plugs werent fouled but were worn and the color
looked good. I didnt have
> the gaskets to replace but all looked good -
plenum to inlet, EGR and
> throttle body. Well now the car idles when warm
between about 500 and 900
> but not steady. There is also quite a bad miss
or hesitation at 4000 and
> then again at 5500. After 5500 it misses
badly. I had a look and can't see
> or hear any leaks. i did however hear
a clicking/ticking noise coming from
> a valve/black box on the center of
bulkhead (there were two i think). So
> my question is where should I look
next? could it be coil? somebody had
> mentioned PCV (dont know what this
is?). any help much appreciated.
>
> ian
>
> 92 stock
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 21:00:29
+0200
From: "H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire question?
>>From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>>Nice
but they do not NEED to be Z rated.
No NEED, provided you do NOT drive
Z-speed
>> If I recall, Z-rating is 149+ mph which from
discussions on the list
means that they can withstand something crazy like 7+
hours at 149 mph (or
something like that remember).
It's not crazy,
it's what the mfg designed the tire for.
>>Who can drive like that
and where can they drive like that.
I did, in Germany, and I'm sure other
can as well..
>>Getting an H- or U- rated tire does not mean it can
not do 149 mph ...
No, IT CAN ___NOT___ go 149 mph....I saw tires tests,
where a lower tire
setting worked flawlessly at its speed spec, and FAILED
WITHIN MINUTES JUST
ABOVE THAT.
Granted, it was a Mfg test, and the
tire was loaded to its max capacity, but
it FAILED in less than 2 minutes,
and less than 5 km/h ABOVE its speed
rating...please, don't gamble with your
life !!!!
If you don't beleive me, ask Roger what happened to its
lower-rated winter
tires on a DYNO !!!!
>> it just means that it
can not reliably withstand that for hours on end.
No it means that it CAN
NOT go that fast....period
>>Do not think that you need the
highest-rated tire (although it is safer).
You do NOT need the
highest-rated tire PROVIDED YOU DO NOT DRIVE THAT FAST
!!!!
If you're
absolutely, positively sure that you will NEVER drive faster that
the tire
rating....go for it.....otherwise....do NOT do
it....
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 12:09:04
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
If you gapped the plugs to the
specified gap, the engine will miss at
anything above stock boost. This
could also cause missing at idle, if your
coilpack(s) are putting out a weak
signal to the plugs. (These stock
coilpacks are weak to begin with) Of
course, i don't know what boost you
are running or what your plug gap is. I
would look here if the emmisions
test shows rich conditions (weak or no
spark/ignition = unburned combustion
mixture)
Wayne
At 09:53
AM 5/30/01 , ian sweeney wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>thanks for
everyone's advice last week on why the car is failing
>emissions. So I
changed the plugs and leads and made sure everything went
>back together
properly.Well now the car idles when warm between about 500
>and 900 but
not steady. There is also quite a bad miss or hesitation at
>4000 and
then again at 5500. After 5500 it misses
badly.
>
>ian
>
>92 stock VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 15:06:26
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire question?
Jesus Henri. What's with all the
shouting???
I have personally taken an H-rated tire to 138 mph at least
four time with
no more than one passenger in the car (nowhere near the max
load) but that
is why I did that since I knew that I was not towing an
elephant. I would
not recommend it but that is why I only buy Pirelli
street tires since they
are made well and I have never had problems with
them.
I can't help the other times (dyno runs for Roger) except that I
don't know
the design, tire, etc.
Just cool your jets. If you
want a tire designed for that then bloody 'ell
go buy one. I for one
never get the chance to drive above 120 mph in most
cases so I don't NEED a
Z-rated tire. Unfortunately, I like the Pirelli
P-Zero and P-7000 tires
and those ONLY come in a Z-rated design for the
245-width stock tire on my
car so I have no choice but to get that rating.
Sorry for any trouble I
may have caused. When I get out to Montana I'll be
sure to put on the
Euro-spec tires since I can't go more than 110 mph around
here for more than
a half mile before hitting a curve.
- --Flash!
Pittsburgh,
PA
- -----Original Message-----
From: H. Le Hir
[mailto:hlehir@lucent.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 3:00 PM
To:
team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.comCc:
DSchilberg@freemarkets.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Tire question?
Importance: High
>>From: "Schilberg,
Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>>Nice
but they do not NEED to be Z rated.
No NEED, provided you do NOT drive
Z-speed
>> If I recall, Z-rating is 149+ mph which from
discussions on the list
means that they can withstand something crazy like 7+
hours at 149 mph (or
something like that remember).
It's not crazy,
it's what the mfg designed the tire for.
>>Who can drive like that
and where can they drive like that.
I did, in Germany, and I'm sure other
can as well..
>>Getting an H- or U- rated tire does not mean it can
not do 149 mph ...
No, IT CAN ___NOT___ go 149 mph....I saw tires tests,
where a lower tire
setting worked flawlessly at its speed spec, and FAILED
WITHIN MINUTES JUST
ABOVE THAT.
Granted, it was a Mfg test, and the
tire was loaded to its max capacity, but
it FAILED in less than 2 minutes,
and less than 5 km/h ABOVE its speed
rating...please, don't gamble with your
life !!!!
If you don't beleive me, ask Roger what happened to its
lower-rated winter
tires on a DYNO !!!!
>> it just means that it
can not reliably withstand that for hours on end.
No it means that it CAN
NOT go that fast....period
>>Do not think that you need the
highest-rated tire (although it is safer).
You do NOT need the
highest-rated tire PROVIDED YOU DO NOT DRIVE THAT FAST
!!!!
If you're
absolutely, positively sure that you will NEVER drive faster that
the tire
rating....go for it.....otherwise....do NOT do
it....
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 12:53:59
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
might want to check your
intercoolers, a rock kicked up and punched a hole
in one of the end tanks and
this caused a hesitation, and horrible gas
mileage.
Chris
Maxwell
92 R/T TT
01 S2000
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:09:27
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire question?
<snip>
+> >> it just means
that it can not reliably withstand that for hours on end.
+>
+> No
it means that it CAN NOT go that fast....period
+>
+> >>Do
not think that you need the highest-rated tire (although it is safer).
+>
+> You do NOT need the highest-rated tire PROVIDED YOU DO NOT DRIVE THAT
FAST
+> !!!!
+>
+> If you're absolutely, positively sure that
you will NEVER drive faster that
+> the tire rating....go for
it.....otherwise....do NOT do it....
+>
+> Henri
This
reminds me of an article I read in Road and Track (I think?) many
years
ago. It was regarding the Silver State road race in Nevada where
they
close off a 100 miles or so of highway and let people with
appropriate
safety equipment (including proper TIRES) go flat out to
compete for best
time. The specific memory of the article was about a
guy with a (again,
I think) a Testarossa that showed up with VR rated
tires. They said no
way, and he convinced them to let him run if he
signed a waiver. He
ran. His tire blew. He barrel rolled at ~150 mph
or so if I
remember right. I also think he had his wife in the car
and one of them
died. Dunno if I'm making any of this up, but that's
how I remember
it. Yeah, it's an extreme situation perhaps, but what's
YOUR life
worth? Do you really think those ratings are a
scam???
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
=
87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:50:54
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Detonation / Iridium plugs, etc.
> IMHO you had better
turn down the boost ----- damaged
> electrodes and electrodes spattered
with aluminum is
> a sign of detonation --- the aluminum is most
likely
> from the pistons.
The boost is down to 14 psi for now
until I get things figured out. I think
what probably happened is that
when I had big leaks in the intercoolers when
I let off the gas the intake
switched to vacuum and started sucking in a lot
of excessive unmetered air
through the intercooler holes which made the
mixture even more lean, and when
I got back on the gas it probably stayed
lean for a bit and caused the
problem.
Its all speculation, of course.
> Do you have an EGT
guage ??? If not it could help in
> determining what's going
on.
Its next on the list, ASAP. Probably this one:
http://www.spatechnique.com/instruments.htmlThe
DG-111 with EGT and boost readouts with alarms and peak recall, etc.
$330
though. I'm considering replacing the three factory center gauges
with
these gauges. A DG-111 EGT/Boost, DG-100 oil pressure / water
temp, and a
custom fuel pressure / intake temp gauge. Pretty spendy,
but I don't want a
bunch of gauges hanging all over my car's interior and
want to preserve a
factory look as much as possible.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 15:41:34
-0400
From: Mark Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
Ian,
The idle in my 92
Stealth TT was flashing up and down, probably 300 rpms
from high to low. I
was able to fix this by cleaning the throttle body.
Buy a can of Gumout
throttle body cleaner from the local auto parts
store. Warm up the engine.
Remove the y pipe. Plug the lower two holes
in the throttle body with small
pieces of a rag or something. Spray the
cleaner around inside the throttle
body while opening and closing the
butterfly. Let the car sit ten minutes and
repeat. I also wiped the
inside of the throttle body with a rag to try and
remove all of the
dirt. (mine was pretty bad) There is a good explanation of
how to do
this in the CD service manuals. If you don't already own a copy,
you
should. :)
Mark
92 Stealth R/T TT
ian sweeney
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> thanks for everyone's advice last
week on why the car is failing
> emissions. So I changed the plugs and
leads and made sure everything
> went back together properly. The car
doesnt seem to run any better
> though. The plugs werent fouled but were
worn and the color looked
> good. I didnt have the gaskets to replace but
all looked good - plenum
> to inlet, EGR and throttle body. Well now the
car idles when warm
> between about 500 and 900 but not steady. There is
also quite a bad
> miss or hesitation at 4000 and then again at 5500.
After 5500 it
> misses badly. I had a look and can't see or hear any
leaks. i did
> however hear a clicking/ticking noise coming from a
valve/black box on
> the center of bulkhead (there were two i think). So
my question is
> where should I look next? could it be coil? somebody had
mentioned PCV
> (dont know what this is?). any help much
appreciated.
>
> ian
>
> 92 stock VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:22:15
-0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
Thanks all for your
feedback! So this is what I've done and plan to do
1. I did reset
the EC and let idle for 5 minutes
2. I'll replace the PCV Valve - what
happens when this isnt working?
3. Didnt do a compression - didnt have a
tester - but it doesnt smoke or
burn-oil
4. I'll clean out the throttle
body as well to be sure.
5. Will check intercooler for damage
6. Does
anyone know of the homemade leak test Charles is talking of? This is
my
guess as to the problem?
By the way, thanks to everyone for their
input. Even though i'm beginning
to hate this car (and i know it hates
me!) i'm enjoying the invetigations
and learning a lot from you
all!
thanks
Ian
'92 stock Vr4
>From: "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>To:
'ian sweeney' <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
>Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:40:23
-0500
>
>PCV valve = Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. It
costs $3.60 at
>O'Reilly's or $20 at Mitsubishi. It is screwed into
the front valve cover
>passenger side facing aft with a big black hose
clamped onto it. It takes
>a
>14 mm
wrench.
>
>Don't suppose you did a compression test when you had the
intake plenum
>off?
>
>Sometimes a bad Throttle Position
Sensor (TPS) can cause ragged idle, but
>usually you have a miss or
hesitation at the same physical position of the
>throttle, without regard
to rpm. If, you're in the same gear, the rpm is
>of
>course
the same. This might be the next thing to look at.
>
>Are you
sure you don't have a vaccum leak? There was a description of
a
>homemade leak tester on the list some time
back.
>
>Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: ian sweeney
[SMTP:sween3000gt@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 11:53
AM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
> >
> > Hi
All,
> >
> > thanks for everyone's advice last week on why the
car is failing
> > emissions. So I changed the plugs and leads and made
sure everything
>went
> > back together properly. The car doesnt
seem to run any better though.
>The
> > plugs werent fouled but
were worn and the color looked good. I didnt
>have
> > the
gaskets to replace but all looked good - plenum to inlet, EGR and
> >
throttle body. Well now the car idles when warm between about 500 and
>900
> > but not steady. There is also quite a bad miss or
hesitation at 4000 and
> > then again at 5500. After 5500 it misses
badly. I had a look and can't
>see
> > or hear any leaks. i did
however hear a clicking/ticking noise coming
>from
> > a
valve/black box on the center of bulkhead (there were two i think). So
>
> my question is where should I look next? could it be coil? somebody
had
> > mentioned PCV (dont know what this is?). any help much
appreciated.
> >
> > ian
> >
> > 92 stock
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 15:41:53
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
You might also try filling the
tank with 110 octane unleaded racing gas,
pure alcohol, liquid hydrogen, or
some other exotic fuel just to pass the
test. Surely there must be somebody
in California who knows how to get
through an emissions test. Ask any used
car dealer how they do it.
Back in Philly, we just paid off a corrupt
inspection station (for $50,
he'd pass anybody). I got my rusted hulk Vega
through inspection three
years in a row that way. That was 20 years ago, so I
guess the tariff has
gone up since then.
Rich
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:06:07
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
Also, you can test the TPS with
an ohmmeter, but you need one with a needle
(analog) rather than a digital
one. The resistance is supposed to change
smoothly through its travel,
else it's defective. Be sure to mark the
location of the TPS with white
out so you can restore it to its orignial
location.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: ian sweeney
[SMTP:sween3000gt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 3:22
PM
> To:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
>
> Thanks all
for your feedback! So this is what I've done and plan to do
>
> 1. I did reset the EC and let idle for 5 minutes
> 2. I'll
replace the PCV Valve - what happens when this isnt working?
> 3. Didnt do
a compression - didnt have a tester - but it doesnt smoke or
>
burn-oil
> 4. I'll clean out the throttle body as well to be sure.
>
5. Will check intercooler for damage
> 6. Does anyone know of the homemade
leak test Charles is talking of? This
> is
> my guess as to the
problem?
>
> By the way, thanks to everyone for their input.
Even though i'm beginning
>
> to hate this car (and i know it hates
me!) i'm enjoying the invetigations
> and learning a lot from you
all!
>
> thanks
> Ian
> '92 stock Vr4
>
>
> >From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
>To: 'ian sweeney' <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
> >Date: Wed, 30
May 2001 13:40:23 -0500
> >
> >PCV valve = Positive Crankcase
Ventilation valve. It costs $3.60 at
> >O'Reilly's or $20 at
Mitsubishi. It is screwed into the front valve
> cover
>
>passenger side facing aft with a big black hose clamped onto it.
It
> takes
> >a
> >14 mm wrench.
> >
>
>Don't suppose you did a compression test when you had the intake plenum
> >off?
> >
> >Sometimes a bad Throttle Position
Sensor (TPS) can cause ragged idle, but
> >usually you have a miss or
hesitation at the same physical position of
> the
> >throttle,
without regard to rpm. If, you're in the same gear, the rpm is
>
> >of
> >course the same. This might be the next thing
to look at.
> >
> >Are you sure you don't have a vaccum
leak? There was a description of a
> >homemade leak tester on the
list some time back.
> >
> >Chuck
> >
> >
> -----Original Message-----
> > > From: ian sweeney
[SMTP:sween3000gt@hotmail.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001
11:53 AM
> > > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: Team3S: Failing Emissions Continued!
> > >
>
> > Hi All,
> > >
> > > thanks for everyone's
advice last week on why the car is failing
> > > emissions. So I
changed the plugs and leads and made sure everything
> >went
>
> > back together properly. The car doesnt seem to run any better though.
> >The
> > > plugs werent fouled but were worn and the
color looked good. I didnt
> >have
> > > the gaskets to
replace but all looked good - plenum to inlet, EGR and
> > >
throttle body. Well now the car idles when warm between about 500 and
>
>900
> > > but not steady. There is also quite a bad miss or
hesitation at 4000
> and
> > > then again at 5500. After 5500
it misses badly. I had a look and can't
>
> >see
> >
> or hear any leaks. i did however hear a clicking/ticking noise coming
> >from
> > > a valve/black box on the center of bulkhead
(there were two i think).
> So
> > > my question is where
should I look next? could it be coil? somebody
> had
> > >
mentioned PCV (dont know what this is?). any help much appreciated.
> >
>
> > > ian
> > >
> > > 92 stock
VR4
> > >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:40:49
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV and "gas fumes" smell?
Hi Guys,
Question about the new
VR-4...
It has an HKS BOV(vents to atmosphere), and every time it
operates,
I get a faint (sometimes more) gasoline smell inside the car.
It's more
noticeable with the windows down or the roof off. I
originally thought it
was just the car running rich when I got on it, but
I've played a little and
it's definitely the BOV.
If I get on the
throttle hard and then ease off so that the BOV
doesn't bleed any pressure, I
get no gassy smell. If I build boost (slowly
or quickly) and then get
off the throttle quickly (BOV operates), I smell
gas (or something really
similar) about 1-2 seconds after the BOV whistles
and it lasts a second or
two.
Is this normal? I can't figure out how the air in the
vicinity of
the y-pipe would have a fuel-smell as the fuel is *supposed* to
be in the
manifold and cylinders, right? Or do some of the fumes sneak
by the
throttle plate and get vented out?
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 31,000
mi
K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy PRofecA,
HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
Castrol Syn5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1
(R.Diff)
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html
********************* For Sale ************************
'95 Galaxy White
Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5MT) 78,000
mi
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch
Can,
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
*******************************************************
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTSale/3000GTSale.html-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 00:27:28
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV and "gas fumes" smell?
> It has an HKS BOV(vents to
atmosphere), and every time it operates,
> I get a faint (sometimes more)
gasoline smell inside the car.
> Is this normal?
No unfortunately
not.
> manifold and cylinders, right? Or do some of the fumes
sneak by the
> throttle plate and get vented out?
The first thing
I'd do is to remove the oil cap and to put in your nose.
Does it smell like
gas too ?
Next, locate the crankcase ventilation hose that goes into the
lower rubber
comming from the front valve-train cover. Pull it it out and
test again if
it smells like gas.
Unfortunately, if fuel can be
smelled, this means that tehre must be some
paths the fuel can pass into the
crankcase ventilations system. Typical
causes would be defective rings (blow
by) or defective valve stem seals
(mostly on the intake side). Both would
require some mechanical work :-/
If there is no gas smell in these parts,
you may check the rear charger
pipings from before the turbos to the outlets
till the hoses that leads to
the y-pipe. Check them out again for the typical
smell.
Hope this helps a little in finding the source of the
problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#507
*********************
