team3s
Wednesday, May 30
2001
Volume 01 : Number
506
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 29 May 2001 08:56:54 -0400
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Brake
Bleeder ????
I have a 91 VR4, and whenever I get the car to full boost, I
get a smell in
the car like something chemical. I was tol;d that this was
caused by a part
called a brake bleeder and that would also account for the
reason the clutch
is hard to press.
Any idea if this is
true?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 06:43:53
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Bleeder ????
The term "brake bleeder" is usually
reserved for the small "valve"
that screws into the brake caliper. It is used
to let fluid out of
the caliper when flushing or bleeding (removing air
bubbles) the
brake hydraulic system. I can't imaging these causing any odor
even
if leaking, which you would soon realize (soft pedal and no
brakes).
If the clutch hydraulic system (which uses brake fluid) leaked
you
would quickly know it because of a "soft" and ineffective
clutch.
Leaking fluid "might" cause an odor, but I didn't noticed an
odor
when my clutch hose sprung a leak.
Under full boost (even a stock
engine) there are tremendous pressures
in the intake system and inside the
engine. It is possible that some
engine oil may be leaking and causing the
odor. Other fluid sources
include: coolant (hot engine or leak), transmission
(too full or
leak), transfer case (leak), battery (old style when
overcharged).
Other sources of odor may be the clutch disc itself. High
boost
usually meaning high torque. A worn disc could be slipping
and
causing an odor. I don't know if this would stiffen the pedal or
not.
An unusually stiff clutch pedal may be related to a problem in
the
clutch power assist (vacuum booster) system.
If you are leaking
fluid, you should be able to spot the signs (the
exception is sometimes
coolant leaks).
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Steve Petry" <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
To: "
Team3s@Stealth-3000gt. St" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 29, 2001 6:56 AM
Subject: Team3S: Brake Bleeder ????
I
have a 91 VR4, and whenever I get the car to full boost, I get a
smell in the
car like something chemical. I was tol;d that this was
caused by a part
called a brake bleeder and that would also account
for the reason the clutch
is hard to press.
Any idea if this is true?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 09:37:34
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
> I don't want
to kill any GP or something but I do not know of
> any 3S car equipped
with Irridiums that runs good or at least
> ok. In fact all that had good
results finally ended in
> replacing them with the original stuff. Also, I
had a
> customer that had significant knock at 0.8 bars of
> boost
with enough fuel (Datalog showed this). We exchanged
> the Irridiums back
to stock NGKs and knock fully went
> away ! Also there are more member who
are running
> Irridiums and tehre are only one or two who say the car runs
> better or the same.
My car has Irridium plugs in it right now,
and it runs fine. I did have a
problem where two of the plugs seemed to
either burn down or were somehow
hit by debris in the cylinder. Overall
I can't notice any difference
between running NGK's and Irridium plugs.
I'm a little leery of running
them after the meltdown experience though, so
I'm planning on replacing them
with NGK's again. Maybe go one range
colder than stock (the Irridium plugs
are white instead of tan) as I run
17-18 psi on pump gas with water
injection daily.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 10:47:52
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warranty on parts installed by non-factory shop?
I have a
separate warranty from a company (not Mitsubishi or Dodge) that is
very
good. It is not from the place who sold me the car (since they
only
gave a 3 month/3k mile warranty) although they highly recommended
it. I
took them up on the offer and it has paid for itself with the
replacement of
the tranny and ever-failing second gear synchro.
I have
more information on it if you are interested. It is one of only
two
companies in the US I know of that have a warranty for the Twin Turbo
cars
(Porsche, Supra, Stealth, 3000GT, etc.). The non-turbo cars have
more
options for warranty companies.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From:
Klusmanp@aol.com
[mailto:Klusmanp@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 12:04 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Warranty on parts installed by non-factory shop?
Has anybody had
any luck getting Mitsubishi to warranty factory parts
installed by
non-factory shops?
I've got a throwout bearing that squeaks like hell. It
is obviously
defective
and I can't imagine how installation could have
caused any damage to the
bearing.
I'm coming up on one year for the
bearing. I'm taking the car into the local
Mitsu dealer (shudder) to have
the problem diagnosed so I have a record of
the
problem.
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 10:53:40
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire question?
Nice but they do not NEED to be Z rated.
If I recall, Z-rating is 149+ mph
which from discussions on the list means
that they can withstand something
crazy like 7+ hours at 149 mph (or
something like that remember). Who can
drive like that and where can
they drive like that.
Getting an H- or U- rated tire does not mean it can
not do 149 mph ... it
just means that it can not reliably withstand that for
hours on end.
Do not think that you need the highest-rated tire (although
it is safer).
This "Ralph Nader" service response brought to you by
...
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu
[mailto:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 2:52 PM
To:
Team3S
Cc: Mike Raicu
Subject: Team3S: Tire
question?
Everybody,
I found some tires for my brother's 91 TT
that he will have for the summer
in California.
He needs the tires to
be Z-rated at least, good quality, and relatively
cheap. He will only
keep the car for the summer, and it will be driven in
California for ~10,000
miles then a 2000 mile trip to Michigan.
It seems to me like most of the
245/45-17 tires are 8" wide, while the
255/45-17 tires are 8.5" wide.
So, to me it would seem optimal to install
255/45-17 if they are 8.5"
wide. Somebody correct me if I have the wrong
thinking.
I'm
leaning towards the Khumo Exta Supra 712, as long as they are
good
tires. After tax, mounting and balancing (90 days), they are going
to be
$512. There's also a $50 saving bond certificate that you get
with 4 tires.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:14:31
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sticky Wings ( I don't mean Chicken)
This is also on John
Adams' page but my motor is shot so I stuck it
permanently in the up
position. Great instructions on his site though.
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm<
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm>
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent:
Friday, May 25, 2001 12:06 PM
To:
Team3s@Stealth-3000gt. St
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sticky Wings ( I don't mean Chicken)
O.K. since the regulars
aren't speaking up, i will. Usually when this
happens (and it does with most
wings) taking it apart, cleaning, and
re-greasing the tracks and sliders
(you'll see when you get it
disassembled) will solve the problem. Remove the
wing, flip it upside down,
and start disassembling. The rest is self
explanatory.
Jack
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:18:39
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: Warranty coverage
To all 3/S owners looking for warranty
coverage for our cars (especially
Twin Turbo cars). This was an old
post so look in the archives for the same
subject ("Warranty coverage") for
related posts.
The attached post shows what is covered in the warranty
from the company and
a sample of the price for one-, two-, and three-year
warranty and then base,
general, and deluxe coverages.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com1995 VR-4
with a "cover all" warranty on a 60k mile car
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000
3:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warranty coverage
Brian ... if you get
the "cover all" Deluxe version then ANYTHING is covered
except the clutch,
oil, and gas. Anything else (probably even bugs on the
windshield) are
fixed by the warranty. I don't know how many claims you get
per year
though. Sorry to make this so long but I never had it
captured
myself. Good luck figuring out what is covered
where.
So for as little as $1,000 you can cover a tranny. For
$1,500 you can cover
everything. The kicker is that there is a
deductible ($100, $200, etc.) and
a certain number of claims you can make in
a year I think. Also, they do
not always allow you to upgrade from
Powertrain to Deluxe since they think
this is only to cover you driving hard
and breaking something that was not
previously covered. However, if you
start with Deluxe for one year then you
can always change how long the
coverage lasts. Got that?
It also covers a rental car (up to some
price per day). And here is the
breakdown of service for
you:
Class "G" in the chart
Mileage 40,001 to 60,000 miles
Term of
12 months or 12,000 miles
Powertrain plus is $980
Standard is
$1,202
Deluxe is $1,509
Mileage 40,001 to 60,000 miles
Term of 24
months or 24,000 miles
Powertrain plus is $1,367
Standard is
$1,715
Deluxe is $2,193
Mileage 40,001 to 60,000 miles
Term of 36
months or 36,000 miles
Powertrain plus is $2,129
Standard is
$2,722
Deluxe is $3,540
Global Standard Warranty,
Ltd.
800-241-8100 - telephone assistance
Administered by: Warranty
Administration Corporation
P.O. Box #140130
Denver, CO
80214-0130
800-445-4065
The coverages are (sorry for the
mess):
Powertrain plus coverage
1. Engine:
* cylinder block
*
cylinder heads and all internally-lubricated parts contained within
the
engine including: pistons, piston rings, connecting rod bearings,
crankshaft,
crankshaft main bearings, camshaft, camshaft bearings, cam
followers, timing
chain or belt, timing gears, guides, tensioners, rocker
arms, rocker shafts,
rocker bushings, cylinder head valves, valve guides,
valve lifters, valve
springs, valve seals, valve retainers, valve seats,
push rods, water pump,
oil pump and oil pump housing, harmonic balancer, oil
pan, timing chain
cover, intake and exhaust manifolds, valve covers, engine
mounts, seals and
gaskets
* factory installed turbochargers including: housing, internal
parts,
seals and gaskets
2. Transmission (Automatic or Manual)
*
transmission case and all internal parts including: torque
converter,
flywheel/flex plate, vacuum modulator, electronic shift control
unit,
transmission cooler, transmission mounts, oil pan, seals and gaskets
3.
Transfer case
* transfer case and all internal parts, seals and gaskets
4.
Drive axle
* front and rear drive axle case
* all internal parts contained
within the drive axle including:
locking hubs, drive shafts, universal
joints, constant velocity joints, axle
bearings, four-wheel drive actuator,
differential cover, seals and gaskets
5. Cooling
* engine cooling fan and
motor
* fan clutch
* belt tensioner
* radiator
* heater core
*
thermostat
* blower motor
* hot water valve
Standard coverage
Items
1-5 from the Powertrain plus coverage
6. Steering
* all internal parts
contained within the steering box including: rack
and pinion gear, power
steering pump, power steering hoses, steering
knuckles, pitman arm, idler
arm, tie rod ends and drag link, upper and lower
steering column shafts and
couplings including internal tilt-wheel
mechanism, steering box and rack and
pinion gear housings, seals and gaskets
* rear wheel steering including: rear
steering shaft and couplings,
power cylinder and pump, electronic control
unit/solenoid, phase control
unit, stepper motor, steering box, control
valve, rack, tie rod ends, seals
and gaskets
7. Brakes
* master
cylinder, power brake cylinder, vacuum assist booster, hydro
boost, disc
brake caliper, wheel cylinders, compensating valve, brake
hydraulic lines and
fittings, hydraulic control unit, seals and gaskets
* all the following ABS
items: electronic control processor, wheel
speed sensors, hydraulic
pump/motor assembly, pressure modulator
valve/isolation dump valve,
accumulator, seals and gaskets
8. Electrical
* alternator
* voltage
regulator
* starter motor
* starter solenoid and start drive
* engine
compartment wiring harness
* computerized timing control unit
* electronic
ignition module
* crank angle sensor
* knock sensor
* ignition
switch
* ignition switch lock cylinder
* front and rear window wiper
motor, washer pump and switch
* stop lamp switch
* headlamp switch
*
turn signal switch
* heater/AC blower speed switch
* manual heater/AC
control assembly
* horns
9. Fuel Delivery
* fuel pump
* fuel
injection pump and injectors
* vacuum pump
* fuel tank
* fuel tank
sending unit
* metal fuel delivery lines
Deluxe coverage
Items 1-9 from
the Standard coverage
10. Air conditioner
* condenser, compressor,
compressor clutch and pulley, air
conditioning lines and hoses, evaporator,
idler pulley and idler pulley
bearing, high/low compressor cutoff switch,
expansion valve, pressure
cycling switch, seals and gaskets
* if these
parts are required in connection with the repair of a
covered part listed
above then they are covered: accumulator/receiver dryer,
orifice tube, oil,
and refrigerant
11. Front and rear suspension
* upper and lower control
arms, control arm shafts and bearings or
bushings, upper and lower ball
joints, radius arm and bushings, torsion bars
and mounts or bushings,
stabilizer bar, links and bushings, struts, spindle
and spindle support,
wheel bearings, seals and gaskets
* variable dampening suspension including:
compressor, control module,
actuator, solenoid, height sensor, mode selector
switch, seals and gaskets
12. Enhanced electrical
* automatic climate
control programmer including: electronic
instrument cluster, mileage
computer
* distributor
* ignition coil
* electronic combination entry
system (does not include transmitters
and receivers for remote locks)
*
cruise control module, transducer, servo and amplifier
* powertrain control
module
* motors including: headlamp motors, power window motor, power
seat
motor, power mirror motor, power antenna motor/mast assembly,
convertible
top motor, power sunroof motor, power window switch, cruise
control
engagement switch, power seat switch, power mirror motor switch
*
rear defogger switch
* power door lock actuator and switch
-
--Flash!
3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires,
and a custom spark plug
plate
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Geddes, Brian J [mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
<
mailto:[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 7:58 PM
To: 'Schilberg,
Darren'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2nd tranny failure
I'd like info on the
company you've got this warrany through...I've got a
'94 VR4 with 47k, and a
few things that need fixing - shocks (although I'm
guessing this isn't
covered, as it's a wear item?), active aero, perhaps 3rd
gear
synchro.
Thanks!
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 10:08:18
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
I agree with
Roger. I too have heard some good, but a lot of bad things
about
iridium plugs in out cars. One of our local MN 3/S members had the
prongs smashed down on two of them. This was probably because of
something
in the cylinder, but I'd still question the durability of the
iridium plugs.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: "Roger Gerl
\(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
>Date: Sun, 27 May
2001 13:03:21 +0200
>
>I don't want to kill any GP or something but
I do not know of any 3S car
>equipped with Irridiums that runs good or at
least ok. In fact all that had
>good results finally ended in replacing
them with the original stuff. Also,
>I had a customer that had significant
knock at 0.8 bars of boost with
>enough
>fuel (Datalog showed
this). We exchanged the Irridiums back to stock NGKs
>and knock fully went
away ! Also there are more member who are running
>Irridiums and tehre are
only one or two who say the car runs better or
the
>same.
>
>Also a friend with a high power Supra installed
them one range colder but
>finally went to coppers and was much more
successful.
>
>Sorry, no Irridiums in my cars due to the lates
experiences !!!
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>www.rtec.ch
>
> > Who's interested in getting some
iridiums for less than the cost of
>stock
> > NGK's? I'm
in the process of setting up an account with Denso's leading
> >
distributor and I will be selling almost at cost.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 08:29:42
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Iridium Plugs
Supposedly higher quality plugs don't always add
performance. My 635CSI BMW
used NGK or Bosch regular plugs. When Botch came
out with Platinum plugs I
tried those right away. While Bosch said they would
improve performance, in
fact the reverse was true, and after about a year the
general consensus was
they sucked. Personally, I intent to stay with the
stock plugs for my AWD.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 12:12:12
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: NGK Platinum Spark Plug group buy??
Alright all you PITA's,
=) My distributor is going to let me buy the stock
plugs at a good
price if I get enough people intersted. If I did this, who
would be
in?
- -Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl White
RT/NA
For Sale.. =(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Porterfield Custom Stainless Steel Brake
Lines
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
Hard-Wired Cobra Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
System
Pioneer DEH-P8000R
PowerAcoustik 1600 Watt Amp
Power Precision 200 Watt
Amp
Dual Xtant 10" 500 Watt
Subs
1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 12:14:08
-0400
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Iridium Plugs
Just to add a little info:
IIRC, Jack did
his best runs on stock wires and plugs.
Jack, you listening?
-
-Dennis
PS What happened to Arty?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:39:22
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
OT: Arty Where Are You??? RE: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
I know this is
off topic (big time), but I still had to ask after Dennis
mentioned
that... But where in the hell is Arty??? He was quite active
for
a long time, both here and on Starnet, and I remember a million
things he was
doing to his car... Are you out there? I wanna see some
times on
your car (Didn't they invert the turbos on his car so they
would even
fit???)
Maybes hes waiting for the GT-Pro Carbon Fiber
Hood???
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Dg B
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 11:14 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
Just to add a little info:
IIRC, Jack
did his best runs on stock wires and plugs.
Jack, you listening?
-
-Dennis
PS What happened to Arty?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 10:15:40
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Arty Where Are You??? He's AOK...
- ----- Original Message
----- From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
> I know
this is off topic (big time), but I still had to ask after Dennis
mentioned
that... But where in the hell is Arty??? He was quite active
for
a long time, both here and on Starnet, and I remember a million things
he
was doing to his car... Are you out there? I wanna see some
times on your
car (Didn't they invert the turbos on his car so they would
even fit???)
> Maybes hes waiting for the GT-Pro Carbon Fiber
Hood???
> -Cody
- -----------------
Yes it's OT,so we'll keep
subsequent chat on this topic off the list,
please... I just spoke to
Arty last week and he is UN-retired and busy with
his construction company
again. (Probably to pay for the big bux final mods
on his monster
car). Car is still unfinished and in pieces, needless to
say, so the
timeslips will be unimpressive... :-) He'll probably be
retired
again before GTPro CFH's get shipped.
;-)
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 13:48:09
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: OT:
Arty Where Are You??? RE: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
I'm still here
lurking in the background. I'm trying hard to get to the DSM
Shootout on
7/20. I've been run over by the stock market crash and survival
became more
important then speed. I'm quiet not gone & trying to accumulate
enough
cash to finish the project. The only thing faster then my car was the
NASDAQ
decline. Ouch.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 5/29/01 9:42:37 AM
Pacific Daylight Time,
overclck@starband.net
writes:
<< Subj: OT: Arty Where Are
You??? RE: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
Date: 5/29/01 9:42:37 AM
Pacific Daylight Time
From:
overclck@starband.net
(cody)
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st To:
team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.com
(Team3S)
I know this is off topic (big time), but I still had
to ask after Dennis
mentioned that... But where in the hell is
Arty??? He was quite active
for a long time, both here and on
Starnet, and I remember a million
things he was doing to his
car... Are you out there? I wanna see some
times on your
car (Didn't they invert the turbos on his car so they
would even
fit???)
Maybes hes waiting for the GT-Pro Carbon Fiber
Hood???
-Cody
-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Dg B
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 11:14 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st Subject:
Re: Team3S: Iridium Plugs
Just to add a little
info:
IIRC, Jack did his best runs on stock wires and
plugs.
Jack, you
listening?
-Dennis
PS What happened to
Arty?
>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 12:14:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thunderhill trawck day
Any of the California #s guys interested
in the open-track events at
Thunderhill the last weekend of the month of
June?
I'll be there, Bob F. -will- be there...
Team3s
Content:
None.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 13:07:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thunderhill trawck day
Goeff et all,
Be glad to join you
all...if you send me an airplane
ticket and let me drive one of your
cars!
LOL
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> Any of the California #s guys interested in the
>
open-track events at
> Thunderhill the last weekend of the month of
June?
>
> I'll be there, Bob F. -will- be there...
>
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 16:30:26
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
The quick description:
* May
26-27, 2001
* Allegheny Region Porsche Club of America, ARPCA (
www.pca.org/all/)
<
http://www.pca.org/all/)>
* Driver's
Education (i.e. NOT a racing event)
* Watkins Glen racetrack in Watkins Glen,
NY (
www.theglen.com)
<
http://www.theglen.com)>
* Full course
of about 3.4 miles and 11 turns
* Two-day session, 7 on-track sessions about
20 minutes each
A superbly-organized event by ARPCA combined
with one excellent track to
drive made for a thrilling experience.
Course workers were very
professional which let me not worry about having to
watch for the other cars
as much and could concentrate on driving.
The
longer description:
It was wet on the track and overcast the
first day (3 track sessions) and
3 laps into our 6th on-track session they
black-flagged the event and sent
everyone home. Watching the Weather
Channel later showed red, yellow, and
dark green colors in that area so it
was for the best although I really
wanted to see how my car handled in the
rain on the track but didn't mind
getting the chance to drive home
unwrecked.
If ANYONE gets the chance to drive at Watkins Glen I
HIGHLY recommend it
as it is a very nice track to drive with our
higher-horsepower cars. I was
in the "D" group (lowest, slowest,
novice, beginner, etc. group) and was
keeping pace with an Audi Quattro S4, a
BMW M3, several Porsche 911 Turbos,
and in front of a race-prepped Rabbit, a
BMW M3, and a VW Golf TDi. The
Golf had a chip but I don't know what
the other cars had in them.
My car is a 1995 Black VR-4 with Big
Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo
race seat, Simpson 5-point harnesses,
Yokohama A-032R race tires, 1999
3000GT SL 17" wheels, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor KV85 wires, Motul 600
racing brake fluid, Pagid Orange racing brake
pads, and stock front rotors
cryo-treated. All of this is one event old
as I used the same things at
Mid-Ohio in April.
My instructor
this time was not as aware of what the car could do. He
said he was
aware. I could tell he didn't believe it but I would rather be
slower
the first few laps out anyway. The track is very deceiving so
I
welcomed his instruction. Little things like the front stretch toward
Turn
1, "The Ninety," goes not only downhill but downhill at two
different
angles. Also, the apex for this turn is more like 3 feet into
the track but
putting the cone here would get it punted off the track by the
first car.
Stock suspension means the driver (me) needs to get
things settled or
else taking a slightly downhill Turn 2 at 90 mph would get
the car drifting
toward the Armco and not let you hit the apex of the turn
which sets you up
for Turn 3. (Armco is that three-high guardrail
painted blue hence how
Insurance companies know you were racing since not
many deer are blue).
Turns 2, 3, and 4 make up a set called "The
Esses" and it is labeled
"Some of the fastest turns you will drive." I
finally got setup to keep the
accelerator down all the way from the turn-in
on Turn 2 until the braking
zone on the backstretch after Turn 4. Took
these at 90-95 mph shifting into
fourth gear before Turn 4 and letting the
turbos catch me up to the other
cars as I also out-brake them at the tricky
"Bus Stop."
The "Bus Stop" is a set of four turns which are
taken more like "Turn to
the right, turn to the left" so really it is two
turns once you cut off two
corners. Man. This is confusing.
Take a look at the map. Lots of fun to
drive and get the feeling of
drifting from the right to the left. Another
VR-4 driver took the
initial turn to the right too hot and tried to go to
the left, spun out,
travelled across the grass, and ended three feet from
the Armco.
Whew! Lucky him. I helped bleed his brakes later and his
Hawk
Blues were working hard on stock calipers, stock rotors, stock lines,
and AP
550 brake fluid (I replaced that with Motul 600 brake fluid).
He'll never
forget that turn.
Okay enough of the turns ... I
could go on for days. It was quite fun
and I wish we could have had our
full session. I got to do some heel and
toe as I was braking from 120
mph for the Bus Stop at 400 feet. I tried
this at 300 feet but was not
braking fast enough, did not complete the
shift, and went through the turn at
70 mph in fourth gear instead of third.
Braking with the ball of the foot is
tricky as the feeling just is not there
sometimes. More seat time is
needed for that.
And now everyone is wondering how I did.
Well I was disappointed
personally that I was not pushing the car as hard as
I had wanted earlier.
I felt pleasing my instructor so he would sign me off
was better so then I
could practice things on my own and learn faster.
Yes it worked but I would
recommend to someone who is doing this for the
first time to try everything
with the instructor in the car so they can help
get you out of trouble. I
had a driving event already so I already knew
that flooring the brake pedal
at 120 mph made the car lose a little control
on stock suspension.
Therefore I could apply it hard (not instantly) at 120
mph and then apply
more and more pressure. This yielded a much nicer
response. I think my
time on the second day was a 2:42 (down from a
3:08 on the first day).
About three of the turns had no distance
markings to the corner so
initially landmarks such as foam barriers,
guardrail dents, dips in the
road, skidmarks, etc. were the way to pick out
when to brake, turn, etc.
That also made things interesting.
A very nice course for our cars, Turbo Porsche cars, M3, Vettes,
Vipers,
Cobra replicas, etc. I can't wait to get back there next
year.
Kudos to ARPCA and to the corner workers (about 13 per lap of 11
turns)
especially that guy between the Toe and Heel of the boot with the "Dr.
Seuss
Cat in the Hat" hat who made everyone relax at that point on the track
when
normally one would tend to get burned out.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 09:46:03
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Bleeder ????
>>I have a 91 VR4, and whenever I
get the car to full boost, I get a
>>smell in the car like something
chemical. I was tol;d that this was
>>caused by a part called a brake
bleeder and that would also account
>>for the reason the clutch is hard
to press.
> An unusually stiff clutch pedal may be related to a
problem in the
> clutch power assist (vacuum booster) system.
My
car has the same problem, including a nice whistling sound from the
clutch
booster at high boost ( > 14psi). I haven't had a chance to
actually
start diagnosing the problem, but I assume that there's something
wrong with
the clutch booster as it shouldn't get pressure - only vacuum if
I
understand how it works correctly. That being the case, there's a
one-way
check valve in the vacuum line that leads to the clutch booster that
I
suspect is malfunctioning in my car. Yours may be the same. But
yes, the
problem sounds indentical to mine - especially the very stiff clutch
feel.
Until you get it fixed, try to stay out of stop and go
traffic. The clutch
is terribly stiff when the booster doesn't work -
much stiffer than any
clutch I've ever used in any car.
When I get the
problem figured out on my car I'll post my findings to get
the answer in the
archives.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 13:45:54
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Bleeder ????
Sounds like the check valve is allowing
boost INTO the assist system, and
not holding vacum at all.
The assist
cannister itself may have a leak *unlikely* or the VSV (one-way
valve) itself
is bad. *most likely*
On Tue, 29 May 2001, Jannusch, Matt
wrote:
> >>I have a 91 VR4, and whenever I get the car to full
boost, I get a
> >>smell in the car like something chemical. I was
tol;d that this was
> >>caused by a part called a brake bleeder and
that would also account
> >>for the reason the clutch is hard to
press.
>
> > An unusually stiff clutch pedal may be related to a
problem in the
> > clutch power assist (vacuum booster) system.
>
> My car has the same problem, including a nice whistling sound from
the
> clutch booster at high boost ( > 14psi). I haven't had a
chance to actually
> start diagnosing the problem, but I assume that
there's something wrong with
> the clutch booster as it shouldn't get
pressure - only vacuum if I
> understand how it works correctly.
That being the case, there's a one-way
> check valve in the vacuum line
that leads to the clutch booster that I
> suspect is malfunctioning in my
car. Yours may be the same. But yes, the
> problem sounds
indentical to mine - especially the very stiff clutch feel.
>
>
Until you get it fixed, try to stay out of stop and go traffic. The
clutch
> is terribly stiff when the booster doesn't work - much stiffer
than any
> clutch I've ever used in any car.
>
> When I get
the problem figured out on my car I'll post my findings to get
> the
answer in the archives.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 23:04:30
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AC Exchanger
Is there a way to fix a small leak in the AC heat
exchange rad? Is there a
solution you can add like a RadWeld? I know the
pressure is MUCH greater but
I guess it is a very small leak and something
should harden enough to fix
it. Reason is I got a price today for a new one
from my local Mitsu dealer
at £656 Plus Labour just look at the quote.... and
that is pounds.
Lamp kit, turn
signal
£30.91
Lamp kit, turn
signal
£30.91
Condenser assy, A/C
Refrigerant
£656.05
___________
ESTIMATE ONLY
REQUIRE CHASSIS NO
!!
PARTS
£717.86
LABOUR
£235.00
V.A.T
£169.90
TOTAL £1140.77
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
eMail:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comeMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0831
4052
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 21:41:11
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: NGK Platinum Spark Plug group buy??
> Depends on the price ...
Sadly enough, the price Randy gave me sucked.
DOHC Double
Platinum - PFR6J-11 $12.00 jobber, after 36 I get 10% off
SOHC
Single Platinum - BPR5EVX-11 $7.00 jobber, after 36 I get 10% off
Sorry
guys, I'm really disappointed with the prices I got for the NGK's but
my
offer for the Denso Iridium's @ $9.50 stand if anyone wants them. The
distributor is mainly Denso, so I guess they couldn't get good enough prices
from NGK.
- -Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl White
RT/NA
For Sale.. =(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Porterfield Custom Stainless Steel Brake
Lines
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
Hard-Wired Cobra Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
System
Pioneer DEH-P8000R
PowerAcoustik 1600 Watt Amp
Power Precision 200 Watt
Amp
Dual Xtant 10" 500 Watt
Subs
1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:00:32
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale: 1995 3000GT
Hey Guys,
As promised, my
3000GT is up for sale.
Here's the website:
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTSale/3000GTSale.htmlHighlights
below if you're mouse finger doesn't want to click any more.
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 31,000
mi
K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy ProfecA,
HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
Castrol Syn5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1
(R.Diff)
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html
********************* For Sale ************************
'95 Galaxy White
Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5MT) 78,000
mi
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch
Can,
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
For Sale:
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT
This car is my baby - I'm actually quite sad to
let her go, but time to move
on... I'm hoping to sell her to someone who I
know will appreciate all the
hard work I've put into maintaining her and will
treat her well. I've, of
course, babied her and am pretty obsessive over my
cars. She's in beautiful
condition - interior, exterior, and especially
mechanically. I've done most
of the service myself (have spreadsheets of
maintenance and gas mileage), so
I know it was done right. I will not BS you
about this car - I've owned it
since 29,685 miles (March, 1998) and know it
like the back of my hand. The
only reason I'm not keeping her forever is
because, I finally bought a
3000GT VR-4 previously owned by someone at least
as obsessive as I (if not
more). Somehow that eases the pain
;)
General Features:
* VIN: JA3AM84J8SY007811
* Galaxy White Pearl
Exterior, Dark Gray Interior
* 78,XXX Original Miles
* All Mitsubishi
Recommended Service Up To Date
* Clear Title
* Real Fuel Economy Rating:
20 City, 27-29 Highway
* Mobil1 10W30 Full Synthetic Oil since 47,000 miles
* Meticulous Maintenance Records From 27,900 miles
* Gas Mileage History
from 40,000 miles
* Cylinder Compression 177-184psi (185psi from the
factory)
* Cooling System Power-flushed at 76,900 miles
* Fuel System
Cleaned with BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner
Mechanical Features:
* 3.0L
DOHC V-6
* 5-Speed Manual Transmission
* I'll spare you - see Website
;-)
Interior Features:
* Cloth Seats with 50/50 Fold-Down Rear Seats
* Infinity Premium 8-speaker Sound System with External Amplifier
* ...
See website
Included Extras:
* Viper 600HF Alarm & Keyless
Entry
* New Battery Terminals (stock ones are pretty cheap)
* Dynamat
Sound Dampening (over 5 rolls @ $80/roll !!!)
* 5/8" Carpet Padding from
Firewall to Rear Seats
* Sears Diehard 84 month battery (07/25/98)
* New
NGK Double-Platinum 60,000 mile Spark Plugs (@71k mi)
* New Power Antenna
Mast
Market Pricing(Stock Car with Factory Options):
*
Retail:
* Kelly Blue Book : $14,195.00
* N.A.D.A. Consumer
& Dealer : $12,400.00
* Wholesale:
* Kelly Blue Book :
$10,225.00
* N.A.D.A. Consumer & Dealer : $10,375.00
Asking Price:
$12,250
**********************************
Optional Extras (prices
negotiable):
* K&N FIPK Open-element Air Filter (CARB Approved)
*
Magnacor KV85 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires
* 17x8.5" Wheels from a '91-'93
Stealth R/T TT
* Firestone Firehawk SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17 Tires
* Cusco
Rear Strut Tower Brace and Matching Custom Interior Panels
* Mitsubishi OEM
Mudguards
* Mitsubishi OEM Nosemask (Bra)
* '92-'95 Factory Service
Manuals
* Mitsubishi OEM Floor Mats
* Complete Set of OEM Brake Pads,
Clips, and Shims
* $4000 Car Stereo (Alpine, MB Quart, Boston Accoustics,
etc.)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 20:25:24
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: [Fwd:
June Specials!!]
Here is an offer I wanted to pass on to other team
members who may not
be aware. Norco Mitsubishi is offering 25% in June off
many parts. See
attached. Administrator, I apologize if this screws up the
archives. Let
me know how I should send something like this in the
future.
Rich
92 Stealth TT