team3s
Tuesday, May 29
2001
Volume 01 : Number
505
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 May 2001 23:47:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Compression & ECU Error questions...
Hello Team,
I
have a few questions hope you guys can help. Let me
1st give u a general idea
of my mod: GT357s, ARC,
550cc's, FMIC, HKS pump, and other basic
turbo
goodies...
1)
Recently I found out I have 9:1 JE
pistons.. dont ask
me why... long story~ =(
I understand a high
compression engine will not
sustain high boost... now the question is -->
what are
the signs that I am feeding my 'high' compression
engine too much
boost? Knock?
So as long as Im not seeing damaging knock, I will
be
fine?
2)
Im also getting the Check Engine light once in
a
while... the ARM-1 would kinda stick to the lean, red
bulbs.. no matter
how I adjust the ARC.. but the car
runs fine tho.. only the ARM acts a little
goofy..
show lean condition when its not... I floor it a few
times when it
was acting up... @15psi, ARM showing
lean, I didnt get any
knock...
The datalogger show ECU Error --> Barameter
Pressure
Sensor. What is that?? Where is that located? Is that
a O2
sensor??
Thanks in advance for the help!
/George
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 10:31:43
+0200 (W. Europe Daylight Time)
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Compression & ECU Error questions...
> Recently I
found out I have 9:1 JE pistons..=20
High Compression pistons mean that
you will reach a higher pressure in th=
e chamber with less boost. Advantage
is that you will get more power on l=
ow boost but the draw back is that
knock may come on pretty quick. Boost =
is controllable and you'll not be
able to fully use the 357 capabilities.=
You know, higher boost means
more air and with the appropriate amount of=
fuel results in power. You
are much more limited with a 9:1 tha with 8.4=
:1 in this area.
>
So as long as Im not seeing damaging knock, I will be fine?
Yes, together
with O2 readings. If possible also EGTs shoudl be watched.
> Im also
getting the Check Engine light
See below
> the ARM-1 would kinda
stick to the lean, red
bulbs.. no matter how I adjust the ARC.. but the
car
runs fine tho.. only the ARM acts a little goofy
No the ARM cannot
act goofy. On what O2 sensor is the ARM connected to ? =
The datalogger
cannot show both O2 sensors but the rear one. If the logs =
do show different
values than the connected O2 sensor then it is either t=
he wrong sensor or
one that is going south. The check engine light could =
also be a sign of
this.
> show lean condition when its not... I floor it a few
times
when it was acting up... @15psi, ARM showing
lean, I didnt get any
knock...
Lean doesn't mean that oyu must get knock. But the longer yo
urun lean th=
e more the danger for knock.
> The datalogger show
ECU Error --> Barameter Pressure
Sensor. What is that?? Where is that
located? Is that
a O2 sensor??
No, the Barometric Sensor is not the O2
sensor (ehy,it also has a differe=
nt name) and it sits in the MAS ... that
is not existing in your car anym=
ore *gg*. Simple answer : The ARC harness
is not properly connected to th=
e barometric sensor wire or the ARC has a
problem as it simulates a const=
ant pressure to the ECU. Let one measure the
voltage at the ECU pin or co=
nnection to the wire. I guess it's just a bad
junction to the wire that w=
ill also cause the ECU error.
Regarding
the Irridiums in your car, Brian told me to put in two ranges c=
older due to
the problems we discussed. When you see knock on a particula=
r amount of
boost you may simply change them (or for a test only the fron=
t ones) to one
range colder coppers and do a datalog again under the
same=
conditions.
Last but not least,the FMIC you have does a
lot to cool the intake air so=
it'll take longer until you will see
signs of higher knock counts (above=
13-16). I'm positive that you
should be ble to run 1.15 bars without kno=
ck as the 13G produced a little
cooler discharge temp as 9B but not that =
significant than the 357 do. This
together with a good intercooling will =
hold good even in the higher boost
area and the temps will not rise much =
in the intake. The Water injection
will then be the add-on when knock app=
ears
:)
Enjoy
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 09:19:48
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Compression & ECU Error questions... IRIDIUMS
> Regarding
the Irridiums in your car, Brian told me to put in two ranges
> colder
due to the problems we discussed.
If you decide to get iridiums(any heat
range), email me, I have a group buy
for almostt 50% off right now.
-
-Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
For
Sale.. =(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Porterfield Custom Stainless Steel Brake
Lines
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
Hard-Wired Cobra Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
System
Pioneer DEH-P8000R
PowerAcoustik 1600 Watt Amp
Power Precision 200 Watt
Amp
Dual Xtant 10" 500 Watt
Subs
1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 10:32:40
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Iridium Spark Plugs?
I agree with Roger here, the iridium plugs
did not work well in my car. I
was getting knock at 1 bar and spark
blow out with the iridium plugs gapped
at .028! When I changed to NGK
copper, blow out and knock went away. Now
the car is running
great.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 17:09:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Compression & ECU Error questions...
Hi Roger,
Thanks
for the swift reply!
>Boost is controllable and you'll not
> be
able to fully use the 357 capabilities. You know,
> higher boost means
more air and with the appropriate
> amount of fuel results in power.
So what is the capability of the 357's in psi?? When
does it start to
loose its efficiency?
>You are much more
> limited with a 9:1
tha with 8.4:1 in this area.
Yea.. i was not happy to discover that the
pistons
were 9:1.. but looking on the bright side, Im not out
to make a
high boosting, 1/4 mile monster~ Maybe I'll
have more advantage on the
streets and road courses...
who knows~ =)
> Yes, together with O2
readings. If possible also
> EGTs shoudl be watched.
This is a run
I did an hour ago @ 1bar.. please have a
look..
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352767&a=10073908&p=493580044
was the highest knock sum recorded in 3rd gear.. EGT
peaked @ 930 degrees C
in 3rd gear (was going higher,
but I just let go and shifted to 4th)
The O2 were @
.90v to .94v. I am still trying to learn how to
read
the logs... where does it show if my RC550s were being
maxed
out?
What's the max EGT you recommend not getting over?
What
should be the EGT read at crusing speeds
(stoich)?
> No, the
Barometric Sensor is not the O2 sensor
> (ehy,it also has a different
name) and it sits in
> the MAS ... that is not existing in your car
anymore
> *gg*. Simple answer : The ARC harness is not
> properly
connected to the barometric sensor wire or
> the ARC has a problem as it
simulates a constant
> pressure to the ECU. Let one measure the voltage
at
> the ECU pin or connection to the wire. I guess it's
> just a
bad junction to the wire that will also cause
> the ECU error.
My
ARC (prototype) was taken out (wires cut) to be
recalibated to the latest
rev.. Im guessing the wires
werent connected properly when they put it
back...
anyways.. i re-did it and reset the ECU.. and the
error code is
gone now.. =)
> Regarding the Irridiums in your car, Brian told
me
> to put in two ranges colder due to the problems we
> discussed.
When you see knock on a particular amount
> of boost you may simply change
them (or for a test
> only the front ones) to one range colder coppers
and
> do a datalog again under the same conditions.
I did not get
any blow bys during todays logged runs..
it ran smooth~ i did get some
hessitation 2-3 times
yesterday... maybe it was the Barometer Sensor
Error?
I thought it was spark blow bys..
> Last but not least,the
FMIC you have does a lot to
> cool the intake air so it'll take longer
until you
> will see signs of higher knock counts (above 13-16).
>
I'm positive that you should be ble to run 1.15 bars
> without knock as
the 13G produced a little cooler
> discharge temp as 9B but not that
significant than
> the 357 do. This together with a good
intercooling
> will hold good even in the higher boost area and
the
> temps will not rise much in the intake.
Yes, I notice during
today's runs.. i was getting
higher knock on runs that had car sat at idle of
a
while.. the IC were probably heat soaked.. after a few
runs and the IC
cools, the knock went down (some
away). =)
>The Water
>
injection will then be the add-on when knock appears
> :)
I have
seen ur debates on Alky vs. Water.. I have the
SMC Alky kit sitting in the
garage~ =P
/George
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 17:23:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: CA Gathering... July 7-8
Resend.. didn't see the 1st one go
thru..
Hello All,
We will be holding a California Gathering on
July 7-8.
For more detailed please visit the below url. We will
be
expecting atleast 40+ cars this year.. so come on
up/down with the family and
enjoy the southern cali
sunshine! ... and meet fellow 3S'ers~ =)
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=7c4f3471c31af4fa01faa5518fe69ed3&threadid=30550Please
contact me directly or go to the 3SI board if
you have any questions,
comments, or suggestions..
(don't reply to the list)..
Thanks for the
space!
/george
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 20:27:43
-0400
From: Krazy Kiwi <
magicare@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Daytime Running Lights
I have to modify my U.S. spec '92 VR4 to include
daytime running lights
for use in Canada.
This can be a temporary
modification but must make the headlights pop up
and come on whenever the
ignition is turned on at least until I have the
car inspected.
Has anyone
out there done this and can offer some guidance.
I have the factory
electrical manual and this looks fairly complex.:-(
-
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 22:35:38
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Mechanical Temp Sensor
Hi All:
I'm replacing
the factory temp gauge in my 1991 Stealth R/T Turbo. I
chose the autogauge
mechanical temp because of the accuracy and 270 degree
sweep, which matches
the fuel pressure sensor I installed (using jeff lucias'
directions).
Here's the question: The Autogauge sensor comes stock with a
1/2" pipe
thread adaptor, which can also be exchanged for a 3/8".
Unfortunately,
either way, it ain't gonna fit in that little sensor location
used by the
stock sensor. Not even if I drill it and re-tap. The material is
just not
there. The next option then is to tap off of one of the heater core
hoses, the driver's side of which I believe is the supply (wouldn't want to
tap the return!).
My problem is that I don't know the size of the
heater core supply line. The
outside diameter is about an inch, but before I
drive all of the way to the
store, I was wondering if anyone could shed
light on this. I plan to use
hose barbs and a 1/2" tee fitting.
Does anyone know for sure what size hose barbs I
need? Also, has this
method been used with success?
-
-Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 00:04:14
EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Warranty on parts installed by non-factory shop?
Has anybody had
any luck getting Mitsubishi to warranty factory parts
installed by
non-factory shops?
I've got a throwout bearing that squeaks like hell. It
is obviously defective
and I can't imagine how installation could have
caused any damage to the
bearing.
I'm coming up on one year for the
bearing. I'm taking the car into the local
Mitsu dealer (shudder) to have
the problem diagnosed so I have a record of
the
problem.
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 08:50:31
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Syncro Switch in 92 RT/TT...
How long would it take me and a
competant mechanic to change the 1-2 and 2-3
syncro's in my 92 RT/TT?
I would like to do this before I get my car back on
the road and I'm just
wondering if this will be a very complicated thing to
do?
Also, if I
don't have the time, how much can I expect to pay for someone to
do it if I
supply the syncros?
Thanks,
- -Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl White
RT/NA
For Sale.. =(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Porterfield Custom Stainless Steel Brake
Lines
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
Hard-Wired Cobra Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
System
Pioneer DEH-P8000R
PowerAcoustik 1600 Watt Amp
Power Precision 200 Watt
Amp
Dual Xtant 10" 500 Watt
Subs
1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#505
*********************