team3s
Saturday, May 26
2001
Volume 01 : Number
503
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 May 2001 06:50:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
I installed my Speed Bleeders
yesterday. My 1992 TT (3/92 prod. date)
uses SB7100 (7mm x 1.0 thread pitch)
for the rear calipers and SB1010
(10mm x 1.0 thread pitch) for the front
calipers. The clutch release
(slave) cylinder bleeder also uses the
SB1010. Mike at Speed Bleeder
Products (630-739-4620) says the 7mm
bleeder (which uses an 8mm hex
size for the removal "nut") was used by MMC on
TT/VR4 cars produced
between 1/92 and 5/93. Other production dates are
supposed to have
the 10mm x 1.0 (SB1010).
Now Mitsu may have changed
the thread pitch to 1.5 ("medium coarse")
from 1.0 ("very fine") on the front
calipers, but I would think that
unlikely. But anything seems possible with
this company.
CAPS does list only one bleeder for the front caliper (Z16
model) for
all years (in that database), MA140271.
Here is what CAPS
lists for the rear caliper bleeder:
9004.1-9202.3 MA151623 (MB366146),
M10
9203.1-9305.3 MB928290, M7
9306.1-end MA140271, M10
[same as the front]
CAPS lists only one bleeder (they call it a plug) for
the clutch
release cylinder for all years (Z16 M/T model), MD704268,
M10.
Tip for installers:
I had my calipers off for painting and so
drained the brake fluid (to
be replaced with Ate Typ 200), I went ahead and
switched the
bleeders. Then I re-read the instructions. The Speed Bleeders
require
a hydraulic system (brake or clutch) that is 90% full of fluid with
a
primed master cylinder. The Speed Bleeder valve cannot be
overcome
(opened) by air in the lines, fluid must press against
it.
Fortunately, the bleeders switch out in minutes. But I'll have
to
bleed the old fashioned way - two persons - one more time
before
installing the Speed Bleeders.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Speedbleeders not
fitting
I have a '92 VR-4 and I was sent the (1.0 x 1.0) and the (0.7 x
1.0)
bleeder screws. I turns out that the (1.0 x 1.0) intended for
the
front matches and fit the rear calipers perfectly. I am now
trying
to figure out what to do about the front because it is a (1.0 x
1.5)
and after calling Speedbleeders I found out that the (1.0 x 1.0)
is
the longest they have. The lady I spoke with said that many
other
people have bought them and not had a problem.
Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 06:57:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Fw: Out of Office AutoReply: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Thomas, Chris" <
chris.thomas@intel.com>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Friday, May 25, 2001 7:51 AM
Subject: Out of Office AutoReply: Team3S:
Speedbleeders not fitting
I will be OOO from Friday May 25th until Tue
the 29th. For any issues
regarding ePurchasing call x-1234 opt 3,3,5,1. For
any issues
regarding SPS
please call
1-877-811-2574.
Thanks,
Chris Thomas
Enterprise Applications
Production Support
ePurchasing/eMaterials Service Analyst
Intel
Corporation
Chris.Thomas@intel.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:59:59
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AirCon Leak
OK verdict just in…he whipped, sniffed and detected a
leak in the AC heat
exchanger in front of the rad. It must be very small as
there was still
pressure in the AC lines but it is there. Question: Is it
possible / worth
it to get the heat exchanger repaired? Has anyone ever done
this? And now
the big one HOW much is a new heat ex??? [Eyes tight shut –
sitting down –
waiting on answer]
Is this exchanger not in a very
vulnerable place?
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
Email:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEmail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:44:19
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
Thanks, Jeff. The ones I
ordered were "10mm x 1.0mm pitch" and "7mm x 1.0
mm pitch." The 10s fit
in the Big Reds and the 7s were definitely too small
for the rear
calipers. I'll read their page again and ask before I buy
this
time.
So I have a set of 7mm x 1.0mm pitch Speed Bleeders if
anyone has a car that
needs them. Pay for shipping and they are
yours. Never used ... just
installed and removed.
However, the
10mm x 1.0mm pitch ones did not fit the rear either so maybe I
had the wrong
pitch. I went with stock bleeder screw until I try it
again.
Thanks.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:51 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
Michael D. Crose
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
I
installed my Speed Bleeders yesterday. My 1992 TT (3/92 prod. date)
uses
SB7100 (7mm x 1.0 thread pitch) for the rear calipers and SB1010
(10mm x 1.0
thread pitch) for the front calipers. The clutch release
(slave) cylinder
bleeder also uses the SB1010. Mike at Speed Bleeder
Products
(630-739-4620) says the 7mm bleeder (which uses an 8mm hex
size for the
removal "nut") was used by MMC on TT/VR4 cars produced
between 1/92 and 5/93.
Other production dates are supposed to have
the 10mm x 1.0
(SB1010).
Now Mitsu may have changed the thread pitch to 1.5 ("medium
coarse")
from 1.0 ("very fine") on the front calipers, but I would think
that
unlikely. But anything seems possible with this company.
CAPS
does list only one bleeder for the front caliper (Z16 model) for
all years
(in that database), MA140271.
Here is what CAPS lists for the rear
caliper bleeder:
9004.1-9202.3 MA151623 (MB366146), M10
9203.1-9305.3
MB928290, M7
9306.1-end MA140271, M10 [same as the
front]
CAPS lists only one bleeder (they call it a plug) for the
clutch
release cylinder for all years (Z16 M/T model), MD704268,
M10.
Tip for installers:
I had my calipers off for painting and so
drained the brake fluid (to
be replaced with Ate Typ 200), I went ahead and
switched the
bleeders. Then I re-read the instructions. The Speed Bleeders
require
a hydraulic system (brake or clutch) that is 90% full of fluid with
a
primed master cylinder. The Speed Bleeder valve cannot be
overcome
(opened) by air in the lines, fluid must press against
it.
Fortunately, the bleeders switch out in minutes. But I'll have
to
bleed the old fashioned way - two persons - one more time
before
installing the Speed Bleeders.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 07:44:49
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Speedbleeders not fitting
I thought the 7's fit the first gen. rears ----
It's been a while but I'm sure I
bought 10's for the front and 7's for the
rear.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Schilberg, Darren <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
To:
'Jeff Lucius' <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
Michael D. Crose <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday,
May 25, 2001 7:44 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speedbleeders not
fitting
> Thanks, Jeff. The ones I ordered were "10mm x
1.0mm pitch" and "7mm x 1.0
> mm pitch." The 10s fit in the Big Reds
and the 7s were definitely too small
> for the rear calipers. I'll
read their page again and ask before I buy this
> time.
>
>
So I have a set of 7mm x 1.0mm pitch Speed Bleeders if anyone has a car
that
> needs them. Pay for shipping and they are yours. Never
used ... just
> installed and removed.
>
> However, the 10mm
x 1.0mm pitch ones did not fit the rear either so maybe I
> had the wrong
pitch. I went with stock bleeder screw until I try it again.
>
Thanks.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> 3Si
#577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
> Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
> KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
>
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:51
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
Michael D. Crose
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
>
> I installed my Speed Bleeders yesterday. My 1992 TT (3/92 prod.
date)
> uses SB7100 (7mm x 1.0 thread pitch) for the rear calipers and
SB1010
> (10mm x 1.0 thread pitch) for the front calipers. The clutch
release
> (slave) cylinder bleeder also uses the SB1010. Mike at
Speed Bleeder
> Products (630-739-4620) says the 7mm bleeder (which uses
an 8mm hex
> size for the removal "nut") was used by MMC on TT/VR4 cars
produced
> between 1/92 and 5/93. Other production dates are supposed to
have
> the 10mm x 1.0 (SB1010).
>
> Now Mitsu may have
changed the thread pitch to 1.5 ("medium coarse")
> from 1.0 ("very fine")
on the front calipers, but I would think that
> unlikely. But anything
seems possible with this company.
>
> CAPS does list only one
bleeder for the front caliper (Z16 model) for
> all years (in that
database), MA140271.
>
> Here is what CAPS lists for the rear
caliper bleeder:
> 9004.1-9202.3 MA151623 (MB366146), M10
>
9203.1-9305.3 MB928290, M7
> 9306.1-end MA140271, M10
[same as the front]
>
> CAPS lists only one bleeder (they call it a
plug) for the clutch
> release cylinder for all years (Z16 M/T model),
MD704268, M10.
>
> Tip for installers:
> I had my calipers
off for painting and so drained the brake fluid (to
> be replaced with Ate
Typ 200), I went ahead and switched the
> bleeders. Then I re-read the
instructions. The Speed Bleeders require
> a hydraulic system (brake or
clutch) that is 90% full of fluid with a
> primed master cylinder. The
Speed Bleeder valve cannot be overcome
> (opened) by air in the lines,
fluid must press against it.
> Fortunately, the bleeders switch out in
minutes. But I'll have to
> bleed the old fashioned way - two persons -
one more time before
> installing the Speed Bleeders.
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:50:10
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read
A response from
one of my local Porsche friends. Pictures of his car (the
one that
died) are available as is the story but I'll leave that out for now
as it is
unrelated.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, Pirelli P-Zeros, Goodridge SS lines,
Magnecor
KV85 wires, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J. Nernberg
[mailto:mark@marknernberg.com]
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 10:06 AM
To:
Schilberg, Darren
Subject: RE: Team3S: FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All
To Read
O.K. As the resident porsche expert, I'll step in here at
risk of getting
flamed.
Before I go on, I'd like to let everyone know
that my Porsche (a 993 Ruf
Turbo R) is being totalled by the insurance
company as soon as their
investigation is completed. I'm replacing it
with a Ferrari F355, as
finding a 993TT in the same condition as mine had
been just isn't possible.
First, the Porsche AWD system is designed to
have all four wheels and tires
at the same diameter. While I ran wider
than stock rims, I was careful to
make certain that the diameters were the
same. The Porsche system as
provided standard on the car provides
between 5 and 40% of the available
power to the front wheels depending on
detected wheelspin.
If you were to run tires differing in diameter, the
system would be confused
and begin doing some strange things. In fairly
short order, the system
would be severely damaged. When I say short
order, I mean perhaps 1 or two
laps at most. (Ask me how I
know).
The system can also be disconnected or removed. To
disconnect the system,
the forward driveshaft must be removed and some
computer work performed.
Then you would have a RWD vehicle with the
advantages and disadvantages of
RWD on the track. The car would be
somewhat faster (owing to the lack of
parasitic losses within the system),
but handling could be dicey.
If anyone has further questions, they may
feel free to email them to me
directly.
Mark J. Nernberg
993 Ruf
Turbo R (dead)
1991 Ferrari Mondial T cabriolet
1997 Ferrari
F355
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:52:05
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
You did. You did. I
have second gen rears. Their catalog clearly states
they make them for
first gen rear only. That is why I didn't make them take
them back
since it was my mistake and not theirs.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Friday, May
25, 2001 10:45 AM
To: Schilberg, Darren; 'Jeff Lucius';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
Michael D. Crose
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
I
thought the 7's fit the first gen. rears ---- It's been a while but I'm
sure
I
bought 10's for the front and 7's for the
rear.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:28:34
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Emission test
Thanks Marc. The door was wide open so
the hose went somewhere.
Anyway, I thought they put those "sniffers" in
the tips but wouldn't putting
it in more tips get more of a %-age or a better
or worse average?
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Marc Jonathan Jacobs [mailto:Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com]
Sent: Friday, May
25, 2001 11:22 AM
To: Schilberg, Darren
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emission
test
Maybe it wasn't emissions, but just trying to get the exhaust fumes
out
of the garage? just a thought.
The emissions test in North
Carolina is a little (1/2") pipe that goes
in one of the tailpipes and the
measurements are relative (% CO2, %
hydrocarbons) so it doesn't matter how
many tips you have.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:32:46
-0400
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Sticky
Wings ( I don't mean Chicken)
I have a 91 with Active aero, and sometime
my wing sticks in the up
position. When it works it works well, I can
hear it engage and disengage
at speed, but sometimes the wing stays in the up
position. Any idea what
could be causing it to stick in the up
position? Does it need to be lubed
anywhere or adjusted? I
have tried to turn the active aero switch on and
off to clear it
too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:47:31
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
I put Speed bleeders on my 2nd gen.
They are the same front and back. Part #
SB 1010 (10 mm X 1.0
).
Jim
94 VR-4
>
> You did. You did. I have
second gen rears. Their catalog clearly states
> they make them for
first gen rear only. That is why I didn't make them take
> them back
since it was my mistake and not theirs.
>
>
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:05:35
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sticky Wings ( I don't mean Chicken)
O.K. since the regulars
aren't speaking up, i will. Usually when this
happens (and it does with most
wings) taking it apart, cleaning, and
re-greasing the tracks and sliders
(you'll see when you get it
disassembled) will solve the problem. Remove the
wing, flip it upside down,
and start disassembling. The rest is self
explanatory.
Jack
At 08:32 AM 5/25/01 , Steve Petry
wrote:
>I have a 91 with Active aero, and sometime my wing sticks in the
up
>position. When it works it works well, I can hear it engage and
disengage
>at speed, but sometimes the wing stays in the up
position. Any idea what
>could be causing it to stick in the up
position? Does it need to be lubed
>anywhere or
adjusted?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:50:08
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Price of Borla went down at CarParts!!
Hey everyone,
I
don't usually bother you guys with my CarParts deals, but this one is
really
good!! CarParts just dropped the price of the Borla twin turbo
exhaust
from $813.15 to $677.24. That means with my 20% off coupoon, you
can
get it for $541.79. Thats a GREAT price!! If you've been thinking
about getting a Borla, now is the time. CarParts can change there
pricing
at any time and my 20% off coupon is over at the end of
May.
The Borla part number to search for is 15443 and my CarParts coupons
are at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.htmllater,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:12:59
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Speedbleeders not fitting
I spoke with someone at Speedbleeders
and she said that Mitsubishi made a
change during the middle of the '92
production year.
I don't have the second generation calipers in the rear
but the 7 mm
speedbleeder was not large enough. The 1.0 x 1.0 fit
perfectly in the rear,
the thread length on the front bleeder was 0.5 cm
longer than the one
Speedbleeders sent me. I am not sure what size to
get now?
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:50:13
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: looking for best car wash
I recently did my car with Meguiers
cleaner, polish and finally wax. See
results at...
http://www.bart.kurek.com/photo/3000gt.htm-
-Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart_kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "3000GT
List
Submissions" <
Stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Thursday,
May 24, 2001 10:20 AM
Subject: Team3S: looking for best car
wash
> I am looking for the best car wash for my 1997 VR-4, which
I had repainted
> with PPG Metallic paint about a year ago. Someone
told me about Mcquires
> Gold Class Car Wash, but none of the local stores
carry it.
>
> I used to use Zymol Car wash, but can't find that
locally either.
>
> We have a problem with hard water in my area,
and most washes cause water
> spots. I tried Zymol Clear Auto Bath,
and got water spots.
>
> Any suggestions ? Thanks
>
Anthony Melillo
>
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 13:13:49
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: 94+ Viper Hood?
Hi, I'm looking to upgrade my 92RT/TT front end
to have a 94+ hood and
headlights. Did anyone ever get their
carbonfiber hood from GT-Pro? I know
there were some problems with
that, but I heard that they were slightly
cheaper than a stock hood from a
dealer or M&S Recycling. Is this true?
Also, I'm not
interested in paying $800+ for each headlight? What's the
least
expensive way of going about doing this and how much should I expect to
pay?
Thanks,
- -Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl White
RT/NA
For Sale.. =(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Porterfield Custom Stainless Steel Brake
Lines
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
Hard-Wired Cobra Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
System
Pioneer DEH-P8000R
PowerAcoustik 1600 Watt Amp
Power Precision 200 Watt
Amp
Dual Xtant 10" 500 Watt
Subs
1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:31:24
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Active Aero Operation and Exhaust Pipe Height
Ok, so
someone please(?!?) tell me that the front active aero motor has its
stop (up
and down) positions calibrated by a switch detecting excessive
current draw
from the motor as it encounters resistance. I think that's how
most
motor circuits of that type operate, but I waned to be sure. I know
the
antenna and power window circuits operate like this.
The reason
(cringe):
<And it's not my fault!!!!>
Traveling 60mph down I-5
(4 lanes) on my way home last night, either a small
(15lb) black animal or a
half of a tire "scurried" from the lane adjacent to
mine into the middle of
my lane... about 30 feet in front of me. I had
under a second to react
and did not have time to check if indeed the lane to
my left was occupied
(the right one was). It looked like it "got up and
ran" into my lane,
but I don't see any blood or fur on my car (although
there might be some on
the rear differential). Anyway, I just kept the
steering straight and
hit it head on.
It went under my front fascia (no damage to
that)., but my front active aero
was down :-( It beat up the plastic
part of it pretty bad. After a cursory
look when I got home (it was
late), it looks like the motor and the metal
posts that extend down are
ok. It looks like the "lower plate" - the metal
bar that the plastic
attaches to is ok as well. Only the big plastic piece
looks damaged,
and it doesn't go all the way up when the Active Aero is off
(hence the
question about the motor stop point).
It might have ripped a rear exhaust
hanger off, too, but I don't remember if
my exhaust hung that low when I
bought the car. I'll get under there and
look more carefully this
evening. Can anyone tell from the pictures if the
exhaust is abnormally
low near the rear differential?
I just looked up the price of the active
aero dam (the plastic part that
moved down) and it's $300 (with our
discount)!!! Arrrrrrrrrrggghhh! Anyone
know if I have any
recourse other than through my insurance company? I
don't want my rates
to go up :( I'll check M&S and see if there are any
used ones
there.
Anyone lower their car, remove the front active aero, and not want
the big
plastic part? Maybe I'll pop out a heat gun and see if I can
bend the
plastic back into shape...
Pictures, if you can offer any
suggestions:
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTVR-4/VR-4Damage.htmlThanks
-
--Erik
[muttering a few 4-letter words under his breath]
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 31,000
mi
K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy ProfecA,
HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
Castrol Syn5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1
(R.Diff)
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html
********************* For Sale ************************
'95 Galaxy White
Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5MT) 78,000
mi
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch
Can,
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
*******************************************************
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 13:19:47
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: CAPS
--- yet again
I'm finally getting around to installing the CAPS program
and
when executing the setup.exe program it insists that I put it
on the C
drive ---- is this true or did I miss something. The
instructions imply I can
use any drive and I have little space
left on C and no desire to free up
364MB on a 2G drive.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:09:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CAPS --- yet again
15GB drives are now about $80-100.
:)
Nevertheless, both computers I have CAPS installed on are using
Drive
C for the files. In particular, there is a 361 MB folder called
PASEN
that contains the database information. I have not tried to
install
it otherwise (except that my NT workstation did not like CAPS
and
won't run it).
I also have a hardcopy version of part of CAPS.
It's called the
"Parts Catalog 3000GT '91-'94 Z11A, Z16A", Pub No.
MSSP-001B-96
(1/2). EBay facilitated the transfer to my hands. There may be
more
copies out there, though my local Mitsu parts manager has never
heard
of this catalog.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 25, 2001 2:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: CAPS --- yet again
I'm
finally getting around to installing the CAPS program and
when executing the
setup.exe program it insists that I put it
on the C drive ---- is this true
or did I miss something. The
instructions imply I can use any drive and I
have little space
left on C and no desire to free up 364MB on a 2G
drive.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 18:39:18
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FAQ Updated, Tire Plus Sizing for All To Read
What about weight ratio. If
you upgraded wheels to lighter aluminum
alloy in front and stock in back does
weight matter at all? Hopefully
this is not a problem for the AWD AWS
systems???
Rich
92 Stealth tT
cody wrote:
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 21:21:50
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: 18"
5-star R/T TT chrome wheel wanted
I am looking for one or two 18" 5-star
R/T TT chrome wheels. These were
offered as an option in
1995-1996. Please e-mail me privately with
condition and
price.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 00:06:35
-0400
From: "Chris" <
caurilio@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
TT Mod to FWD Auto
I've been following the few-and-far-between
discussions on Turbo/auto combos
that have drifted through the list the past
few months, in the hopes that I
could glean some useful info on the
conversion process. After some thought,
I came to the conclusion that I
was probably better off buying a TT and
swapping the 6 Speed for an automatic
than trying to mod the NA motor. But
then I saw this collection of
turbo parts,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=591654402and
now I'm wondering again. Has anyone done either of these
conversions
with much success? I'd be interested in any
comments for or against
either combination. Thx, Chris
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 04:55:35
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
Who's interested in
getting some iridiums for less than the cost of stock
NGK's? I'm in
the process of setting up an account with Denso's leading
distributor and I
will be selling almost at cost. If we can get a group buy
on this the
price will go down even more. Since this is an item we all need
and
it's fairly less expensive than anything else we do to our cars you might
as
well get the best plugs now for less than you'd pay later for the second
rate ones. There will be more details int he next couple days so I
look
forward to getting many people to join in on this buy. Elsewhere,
the best
price I've heard of so far was $14/plug, but I've definitely seen
it go up to
almost $20/plug. Please respond privately as I'm expecting
there to be a lot
of interest in this buy.
- -Paul
Norwood,
MA
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
For Sale..
=(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Porterfield Custom Stainless Steel Brake
Lines
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
Hard-Wired Cobra Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
System
Pioneer DEH-P8000R
PowerAcoustik 1600 Watt Amp
Power Precision 200 Watt
Amp
Dual Xtant 10" 500 Watt
Subs
1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 09:55:13
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
I am interested
here, as the one thing I have not purchased for my car
yet is new spark plugs
(well, recently at least). I do have a question
for some of the more
knowledgeable about spark plugs. I have the
non-turbo SL, with
Nitrous. I had been running a 70 shot of nitrous
(very conservatively,
I might add), and had been using the factory-spec
NGK's. Well, now I am
considering turning up the NOS usage, and best I
can tell, Copper NGK Plugs 2
Heat ranges colder than stock is what I
should get. Question
though: What about the Iridiums? Are they any
good (especially
for the money), and would they work with Nitrous
Oxide???
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSent:
Saturday, May 26, 2001 3:56 AM
To:
stealth@starnet.net;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Denso Iridium Spark Plugs for $10/piece!!!!
Who's interested in
getting some iridiums for less than the cost of
stock
NGK's? I'm in
the process of setting up an account with Denso's leading
distributor and
I will be selling almost at cost. If we can get a group
buy
on this
the price will go down even more. Since this is an item we all
need
and it's fairly less expensive than anything else we do to our cars
you
might
as well get the best plugs now for less than you'd pay later
for the
second
rate ones. There will be more details int he next
couple days so I look
forward to getting many people to join in on this
buy. Elsewhere, the
best
price I've heard of so far was $14/plug,
but I've definitely seen it go
up to
almost $20/plug. Please
respond privately as I'm expecting there to be
a lot
of interest in this
buy.
- -Paul
Norwood, MA
1992 Pearl White
RT/NA
3Si1127
Diablo Car Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#503
*********************