team3s
Thursday, May 24
2001
Volume 01 : Number
501
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 May 2001 09:12:19 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Somewhat modifying what Rich said,
I drive my Yoko 032R's in the rain all
the time. I can't afford two
sets of tires, and I can't afford the wear I
would put on my street
tires. I believe the Yoko's will outperform street
tires in the rain on
the track, unless you have worn the Yoko's down to
slicks. The one
trick I will share is to soften the suspension when you
drive in the wet,
i.e. switch from "Sport" to Tour" on the ECS or manually
soften front and
rear. This slows down the weight transfer and reduces the
tendency for
the car to break away from lateral grip.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent:
Tuesday, May 22, 2001 4:21 PM
> To: Schilberg, Darren; Team3S
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
>
>
>The big question now to everyone is what tire (or the two I have) do
I
> use:
> >street tire or race tire?
> >Street tire is
Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetrical 245/18
> >Race tire is Yokohama A-032R
255/17
>
> Take both. If the track dries, you'll want the Yokos for
sure.
> If there is deep tread left on the Yokos, they'll be a good rain
tire.
> But you really can't beat full-tread street tires in the rain
unless you
> have a special-purpose racing rain tire.
>
>
When you go out on the wet track, take a lap or two to get heat into the
>
tires. Don't get lulled by the fabulous performance you enjoyed in the
>
previous session, when you were lapping the entire field twice. If you
try
> hammering it right away on cold tires, you'll go off into the grass
(been
> there, done that).
>
> You will be amazed at how well
the car handles in the wet, how well it
> sticks to the road (on warm
tires, that is) and, perhaps more important,
> how well it STOPS. With
warm tires, the Big Reds, ABS and our heavy front
> end, you should be
able to slow down at an outrageous rate. Then, you'll
> be
> able to
get the power down with the AWD. You will be gobbling up lesser
> cars 100
yards at a time, and overtaking them in a hurry. BE CAREFUL of
>
the
> other cars. They will loop it, get sideways, slide off into the
grass, and
> come back on the track right in your path. They will not know
you are back
> there because you come up on them so fast. Run with your
headlights on so
> they can see you. With our cars, the most dangerous
thing about the rain
> is
> the traffic. And cold tires, of
course.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4/More Rain! More
Rain!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 09:17:37
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
At 09:12 AM 5/23/01 -0500, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
>Somewhat modifying what Rich said, I drive my Yoko
032R's in the rain all
>the time. I can't afford two sets of tires,
and I can't afford the wear I
>would put on my street tires.
You don't wear tires hardly at all in the rain.
I believe the
Yoko's will outperform street
>tires in the rain on the track, unless you
have worn the Yoko's down to
>slicks.
I think the Yokos are a
superior rain tire when they are new, with deep
tread. Once the tread goes
away, they are no better than slicks. But this
is why we need to have more
people running open track together, so we can
compare notes. I'd love to run
at the same track at the same time with
Chuck and Flash, so we can compare
Kuhmos to Yokos to street tires under
all conditions.
The one
trick I will share is to soften the suspension when you
>drive in the wet,
i.e. switch from "Sport" to Tour" on the ECS or manually
>soften front and
rear.
Problem is, the system will switch back to "sport" as soon as it
figures
out what you are doing. I never even bother to switch the
suspension
settings any more, because it automatically goes into sport.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 10:24:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
I found switching to Tour made a
huge difference the last time I dorve in
the rain. Yes, it stiffens to
Sport under some circumstances, but not on
the whole track. I think
driving style also affects this. If you are doing
the track
"rally-style" where you put the car into a slide on every turn,
you're right,
maybe you'll always be in sport mode. Also the transition from
Tour to the
two stiffer settings is not instantaneous - there must be some
slowing of
weight transfer. The place where I recall a huge difference was a
slight turn
which is downhill. In Sport the rear end got loose in the rain
every
lap. In Tour it did not.
I look forward to drving on the same
track,.too, but fully anticipate that I
won't be able to keep up with you and
Flash!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 9:18
AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; Schilberg, Darren; Team3S (E-mail)
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
>
> At 09:12 AM
5/23/01 -0500, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> >Somewhat modifying what
Rich said, I drive my Yoko 032R's in the rain all
> >the time. I
can't afford two sets of tires, and I can't afford the wear
> I
>
>would put on my street tires.
>
> You don't wear tires
hardly at all in the rain.
>
> I believe the Yoko's will outperform
street
> >tires in the rain on the track, unless you have worn the
Yoko's down to
> >slicks.
>
> I think the Yokos are a
superior rain tire when they are new, with deep
> tread. Once the tread
goes away, they are no better than slicks. But this
> is why we need to
have more people running open track together, so we can
> compare notes.
I'd love to run at the same track at the same time with
> Chuck and Flash,
so we can compare Kuhmos to Yokos to street tires under
> all
conditions.
>
> The one trick I will share is to soften the
suspension when you
> >drive in the wet, i.e. switch from "Sport" to
Tour" on the ECS or
> manually
> >soften front and rear.
>
> Problem is, the system will switch back to "sport" as soon as it
figures
> out what you are doing. I never even bother to switch the
suspension
> settings any more, because it automatically goes into sport.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 12:02:17
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Those of us who HAVE the
ECS.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with NO friggin' ECS
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001
10:12 AM
To: 'Merritt'; Schilberg, Darren; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Somewhat modifying what Rich said, I
drive my Yoko 032R's in the rain all
the time. I can't afford two sets
of tires, and I can't afford the wear I
would put on my street tires. I
believe the Yoko's will outperform street
tires in the rain on the track,
unless you have worn the Yoko's down to
slicks. The one trick I will
share is to soften the suspension when you
drive in the wet, i.e. switch from
"Sport" to Tour" on the ECS or manually
soften front and rear. This
slows down the weight transfer and reduces the
tendency for the car to break
away from lateral grip.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 12:03:56
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Sure, Rich. Chuck and I were
just discussing this.
I live in Pittsburgh. He races in
Texas. That is a difference of 1,600
miles.
Maybe the US should
come to you (in the middle of the US) and we could get
Geoff, Jim, Chuck,
Brad, you, me, Ken, George, etc. and all have a shootout
at Heartland Park or
something.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:18
AM
To: Willis, Charles E.; Schilberg, Darren; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
I think the Yokos are a superior rain
tire when they are new, with deep
tread. Once the tread goes away, they are
no better than slicks. But this
is why we need to have more people running
open track together, so we can
compare notes. I'd love to run at the same
track at the same time with
Chuck and Flash, so we can compare Kuhmos to
Yokos to street tires under
all conditions.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 09:07:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Shane Thoms <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
It was an
option?????
Shane
1995 VR4 with ECS :-)
> Those of us
who HAVE the ECS.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with NO friggin'
ECS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles
E.
> [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday,
May 23, 2001 10:12 AM
> To: 'Merritt'; Schilberg, Darren; Team3S
(E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
>
>
Somewhat modifying what Rich said, I drive my Yoko
> 032R's in the rain
all
> the time. I can't afford two sets of tires, and I
>
can't afford the wear I
> would put on my street tires. I believe
the Yoko's
> will outperform street
> tires in the rain on the
track, unless you have worn
> the Yoko's down to
> slicks. The
one trick I will share is to soften the
> suspension when you
>
drive in the wet, i.e. switch from "Sport" to Tour"
> on the ECS or
manually
> soften front and rear. This slows down the weight
>
transfer and reduces the
> tendency for the car to break away from
lateral
> grip.
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 11:06:24
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
>I live in Pittsburgh. He
races in Texas. That is a difference of 1,600
>miles.Maybe the US
should come to you (in the middle of the US) and we
could get
>Geoff,
Jim, Chuck, Brad, you, me, Ken, George, etc. and all have a shootout
>at
Heartland Park or something.
For more central locations, there are
Blackhawk Farms (Chicago area),
Putman Park (Southern Indiana) or St. Louis
Intl.
Road America in Wisconsin is far away, but the absolute best track of
all.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 14:00:48
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Well, Shane, it was sort of an
option.
I sent out an email long ago (might not be in the archives as I
sent it
privately) asking people to respond with their year, mfg date, car,
and
options. It was interesting.
I think we all realized that as
Dodge and Mitsubishi ran out of parts (for
example, ECS) they just left it
off the cars from then on. If this happened
in November 1994 then all
cars built after November 1994 did not have ECS.
However, if I type my
VIN into CAPS then the illustration it pulls up for
the exhaust (part number
13504) is "Actuator, Exhaust Muffler" so it thinks
I have an Active Exhaust
system when I do not.
If anyone who did not respond before would like to
do so now here is the
request. It was mostly for the VR-4 models but
respond anyway if you have a
Stealth or even a Spyder.
Thanks.
Name: Flash!
VIN: JA3AN74K9SY020664
Year: 1995
Model:
3000GT VR-4
Mfg date: 11/1994 (on side of driver's door)
Active Aero
(y/n): Yes
ECS (y/n): No
Active Exhaust (y/n): No
Sunroof (y/n):
Yes
Type of sunroof (manual/power): Power
Suspension mods: None
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Active Aero but not other fun options like ECS and
Active
Exhaust
Mods: Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point
harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Shane Thoms
[mailto:shanethoms@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 12:07 PM
To:
Schilberg, Darren; 'Willis, Charles E.'; 'Merritt'; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
It was an
option?????
Shane
1995 VR4 with ECS :-)
> Those of us
who HAVE the ECS.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with NO friggin'
ECS
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 14:41:21
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT(well, kinda): I got one!
On Monday at 10PM, I took delivery of
a pristine 1995 (1st half) 3000GT VR-4
with 31,234 miles on the
odometer. I then got to drive it 150 miles home
from Oregon and managed
to avoid getting a speeding ticket =) Woohoo! And
I wasn't even
tired at work on Tuesday...
Option Code: A63
Exterior: X94B (Lamp
Black)
Interior: 41D (Cream Leather)
Manual, Removable Sunroof
Active
Aero
ECS, 4WS
Lexan Headlight Covers
Pictures:
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GTVR-4/CarPictures/VR-4.htmlToys
that came with it:
- ---------------------------------
HKS Turbo Cat-back
Exhaust with 3" Diameter Piping
K&N FIPK
GReddy ProfecA Boost
Controller (currently set at 0.8bar)
HKS Sequential Blow-Off Valve
HKS
Turbo Timer
GReddy Mechanical Boost Gauge
DEI Python 1000PC Alarm/Keyless
Entry
Valentine1 Radar Detector with 12V hard wire
Mitsubishi Nose
Mask
Mitsubishi Car Cover
'92-'95 Service Manuals
Just had to
share =)
- --Erik
[with stupid AWD/TT-induced grin plastered on his
face]
P.S. My base model is now up for sale if anyone is
interested... pics, sale
site to come.
P.P.S. For those of you
looking for low-mileage, excellent condition
VR-4's/TT's without much luck,
KEEP LOOKING - there are some out there, you
just gotta find them when
someone decides to part with his baby. This one
was posted for sale on
Thursday, I drove 150mi to OR to inspect it on
Saturday (brought my jack,
stands, and tools and spent about 5 hours), made
an offer, and took care of
the finances on Monday. It was "on the market"
for about 55 hours
total.
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 31,000
mi
K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy ProfecA,
HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
Castrol Syn5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1
(R.Diff)
'95 Galaxy White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
Magnacor
KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
SZ50EP
245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html'94
Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 15:50:59
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: what a F___ rip off
Take photos, get appraisals from other
experts in the field. Generate
witnesses who can testify on behalf of the
lawyer you probably need to hire.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 18:45:33
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: FORSALE: Stock 360cc injectors and stock Y-pipe.
I have the
following up for auction on ebay but am willing to let either go
for
$100.
Six stock 360cc injectors.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=591648075Stock
Y-pipe.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=591648243The
rubber seal is still good, it came off my car which was boosting 14.x
psi and
never had a problem with it blowing off.
If you are interested but don't
care too much for my selling price, try
bidding.
I will accept COD or
paypal, buyer pays shipping.
If interested, please respond to me via
PRIVATE EMAIL.
Regards,
Michael Bulaon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 15:54:27
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gear Oil Confusion
So do I understand correctly that GL-4 and
GL-5 don't mix? Most of the
stuff I've seen in the parts stores (Mobil
1, Valvoline, etc.) is 75W90 and
says it conforms to GL-5. The
only stuff I saw that has GL-4 on it was some
cheapo conventional 80W90 that
says it's GL3 and GL-4.
Reason for the question:
Got a new
VR-4 (see previous post) and noticed a slight layer of black slimy
stuff
(dirt + oil I assume) near the transfer case connection to the
prop.
shaft. There's also some here and there on the crossmembers and
near the
tranny. The tranny shifts like butter and doesn't make any
weird sounds, so
I'm not paranoid at this point. However, before I
drive it any more, I want
to check the fluid levels in the transfer case and
transaxle and top them
off if necessary. The plan is then to clean up
the underside really well
and drive it a bit. Then I'll lift it up
again and look for where the oil
is coming from. Then take appropriate
action - probably replace a seal or
something (I hope). Sound like a
good plan?
Thus, to top off the fluid in the TC and TXL(BG SynchroShift
in there now),
I need some oil :-) The dealer is only open at
inconvenient times and wants
$10 a quart for BG. So I thought I'd try
some stuff I can get at the parts
store to hold me over until I find/fix the
leak. At that point, I'll drain
everything and put in Redline
fluids.
What fluid can I put in my transfer case and/or transaxle to use
for a week
or two until I can find and fix the leak? Maybe use some
Mobil 1 10W30 if I
can't find any GL-4? I'd like to use something I can
get in a parts store
if it'll not cause any adverse effects on my
car.
Thanks(as always)!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 31,000
mi
K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy ProfecA,
HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
Castrol Syn5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1
(R.Diff)
'95 Galaxy White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
Magnacor
KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
SZ50EP
245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html'94
Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 17:08:02
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheels
Hi all,
Anyone with beefy front calipers have some
suggestions for good wheels
that have lots of room to accomodate large
calipers. I purchased some
forgelines at the advice of KVR, but they never
deal with our cars. The
result is my car is in the shop until I get new
wheels that fit. The
forgelines still leave 1/2" necessary in the wheel. I
want sturdy wheels
that won't dent easy. The 2 foregelines are T6 aluminum
for about $1400
for the pair. What have you used that will fit our cars (I
have a 92 TT)
with large calipers. I know the hub is larger on the 2nd gen
car as one
difference for sure.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 20:27:13
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheels
I use Milli Miglias, but I see that Tire Rack doesn't
carry them any more.
I guess they are available elsewhere.
You can see
them on my car at
www.bazillionbooks.com. Scroll down to
racing
photos, click on Heartland Park July 2000.
If your current wheels
don't quite fit, try a set of 1/2 in. spacers. That
moves the wheel 1/2 in.
away from the caliper.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/Big Reds
>Anyone
with beefy front calipers have some suggestions for good wheels
>that have
lots of room to accomodate large calipers.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 21:47:48
-0700
From: "stealthdevil" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: HeadLamp Conversions?
I found a site that had allowed the sealed
lamps on our 91-93 cars to be
converted to allow individual bulbs such as the
ones on the newer models. I
have been unable to locate it since.
Does anybody know where these
conversions can be
found?
Gabe
'92 Black Stealth TT
- -K&N Air
Charger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 00:13:42
-0500
From:
kalla@tripoint.orgSubject: Team3S:
knock sensor broken?
I recieved the pocket logger this afternoon. I
connected it to my vr-4
and watched the knock an timing advance as I drove
it to work and
back after lunch. My boost controller was set to peak
around
1.0 kg/cm2. There was no trace of knock. On the way home I
figured
what the hey and increased the gain on the blitz so the
boost would peak
around 1.1 kg/cm2. Still no knock on the logger.
This afternoon it was about
68-70 degrees outside, and I'm running
93 octane amoco gas.d
Tonight
I went out to a this 1/2 mile road on the arsenal and did a
couple of pulls
from a standstill through the top of third gear and
logged these. Here is
the datalog from the second run :
http://www.tripoint.org/run2.gif
(i like matlab, heh)
Sorry, I forgot to log the RPMs (I had a friend in
the car). around 5
seconds is where I was in 1st gear, 10 seconds I was in
second,
and 15-20 seconds I was in third. I didn't launch the car or
anything, I just got on it from a standstill. In 2nd gear the boost
peaked around 1.15 kg/cm2 and the same in 3rd gear. The ambient
temperature was about 60 degrees tonight when I did the run.
My car
still has the stock turbos, stock injectors and fuel pump. I
have the fipk
intake, gutted precats and a test pipe on it right now. I
am using the blitz
dsbc. From my reading the list for a while, I find
it a little suspect that
I was able to boost up to 16.5 psi without any
knock on the stock injectors
and fuel pump. Is it possible that the
knock sensor is damaged? Or is my car
just running REALLY
well? :-) The car pulled extremely hard at 1.15
kg.cm2, it was
really amazing.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 03:43:54
-0400
From: "Mike Knapp" <
burnmacs@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
FS: '96 VR-4
I have a 1996 Caracas Red on Tan VR-4 in absolute mint
condition. It has 78K
miles on it but it has been very well cared for and
it's completely up to
date on it's service (60K service done, new tranny
fluid, new water pump,
oil changed every 3K). I am asking $17,900 to start.
This car has been well
cared for and I have to sell it so I can get a sedan.
Unfortunatly I have to
sell it, I've been thinking about it for the past few
months and finally
decided to actually do it. I am located in Sarasota, FL
and pics are
available at
http://www.members.home.com/mitsu-3000gt/
feel free to ask me
any questions.
Mike Knapp
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:30:40
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheels
Rich,
I am using Rich's ex-racing
wheels (1999 SL 17" wheels) and they are
perfect. I know they are beefy
enough for the car (and only about 22# for
18x8.5 size). I saw lots of
wheels at the East Coast Gathering but don't
know how many of the pretty
designs would be able to handle 2 tons of car
leaning on the outside left
corner in a hard right-hand turn.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 9:27
PM
I use Milli Miglias, but I see that Tire Rack doesn't carry them any
more.
I guess they are available elsewhere.
You can see them on my car at
www.bazillionbooks.com. Scroll down
to racing
photos, click on Heartland Park July 2000.
If your current
wheels don't quite fit, try a set of 1/2 in. spacers. That
moves the wheel
1/2 in. away from the caliper.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/Big
Reds
>Anyone with beefy front calipers have some suggestions for good
wheels
>that have lots of room to accomodate large calipers.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:21:28
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gear Oil Confusion
not 10W30 - the viscosity is way too
low. Any GL-4 that is around 75W90
would work for topping off.
There should be some cheap gear oil at
O'Reilly's. I love RedLine stuff
- I use MT90 in the tranny and transfer
case and 75W90 in the rear
axle.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 5:54
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Gear Oil
Confusion
>
>
> So do I understand correctly that GL-4 and
GL-5 don't mix? Most of the
> stuff I've seen in the parts stores
(Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc.) is 75W90
> and
> says it conforms
to GL-5. The only stuff I saw that has GL-4 on it was
> some
>
cheapo conventional 80W90 that says it's GL3 and GL-4.
>
>
Reason for the question:
>
> Got a new VR-4 (see previous post) and
noticed a slight layer of black
> slimy
> stuff (dirt + oil I
assume) near the transfer case connection to the prop.
> shaft.
There's also some here and there on the crossmembers and near the
>
tranny. The tranny shifts like butter and doesn't make any weird
sounds,
> so
> I'm not paranoid at this point. However, before
I drive it any more, I
> want
> to check the fluid levels in the
transfer case and transaxle and top them
> off if necessary. The
plan is then to clean up the underside really well
> and drive it a
bit. Then I'll lift it up again and look for where the oil
> is
coming from. Then take appropriate action - probably replace a seal
or
> something (I hope). Sound like a good plan?
>
>
Thus, to top off the fluid in the TC and TXL(BG SynchroShift in there
>
now),
> I need some oil :-) The dealer is only open at inconvenient
times and
> wants
> $10 a quart for BG. So I thought I'd try
some stuff I can get at the
> parts
> store to hold me over until I
find/fix the leak. At that point, I'll
> drain
> everything
and put in Redline fluids.
>
> What fluid can I put in my transfer
case and/or transaxle to use for a
> week
> or two until I can find
and fix the leak? Maybe use some Mobil 1 10W30 if
> I
> can't
find any GL-4? I'd like to use something I can get in a parts
store
> if it'll not cause any adverse effects on my car.
>
>
Thanks(as always)!
> --Erik
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Lamp Black 3000GT VR-4 (AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 31,000
mi
> K&N FIPK, HKS Turbo Exhaust, GReddy ProfecA,
> HKS Sequential BOV, HKS Turbo Timer, GReddy Boost
Gauge
> Castrol Syn5W50, BG SynchroShift(TX, TC), Mobil1
(R.Diff)
> '95 Galaxy White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
>
Magnacor KV85, M1 10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch
Can,
> SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17, 17x8.5J 1GTT
wheels
>
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html>
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 06:25:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HeadLamp Conversions?
I used the kit from
http://www.autooptiks.com/ (also listed on
the
HUGE Links page at my web site and my Mods page). It is easy
to
install and came complete with all required parts (bulbs are
extra;
also talk to the sales staff their about your driving habits and
the
best bulb "color" to use). Do one at a time so the other can be
used
for reference. Phil has instructions for the conversion at his
web
site.
http://www.msu.edu/user/nguyenn/Stealth/autopal.htmI
have heard of other kits. Search the Team3S archives and the 3SI
message
board for posts.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "stealthdevil" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: HeadLamp
Conversions?
I found a site that had allowed the sealed lamps on our
91-93 cars to
be converted to allow individual bulbs such as the ones on the
newer
models. I have been unable to locate it since. Does anybody
know
where these conversions can be found?
Gabe
'92 Black
Stealth TT
- -K&N Air Charger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 06:35:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: knock sensor broken?
Walt,
The log looks fine.
Consider yourself one of the lucky ones. Some
engines are less detonation
prone than others. If the knock sensor
was bad the ECU should set a fault
code (plus the check engine
light). Keep checking though, especially when it
hits 90ºF or more
outside. I often have no knock either at 16 psi of boost
until it
gets very hot outside.
Now that we are getting more users of
loggers, maybe someone would
like to setup a repository of logs and support
info (conditions,
mods, etc.) for 3S cars? Any volunteers?
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
kalla@tripoint.org>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: knock sensor
broken?
<snip>
Tonight I went out to a this 1/2 mile road on the
arsenal and did a
couple of pulls from a standstill through the top of third
gear and
logged these. Here is the datalog from the second run :
http://www.tripoint.org/run2.gif<snip>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 07:00:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gear Oil Confusion
Actually, 30W oil is only slightly less
viscous than the gear oil we
use. Gear oil viscosity is measured at a lower
temperature than motor
oil viscosity, so 40W motor oil is about the same as
95W gear oil,
viscosity wise. In fact, Jim Rowe at Metric Mechanic has
recommended
Amsoil 10W-40 fully synthetic (motor oil) for use in our
transaxle
(only). However, motor oil generally does not have the
correct
constituents for use in a gear box with synchronizers.
For
more gear and motor oil info, I have reproduced the Red Line
technical
brochures on their products on the Tech Page at my web
site.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/1-tech.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Gross, Erik'" <
erik.gross@intel.com>; "Team3S List
(E-mail)"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gear Oil
Confusion
<snip>
not 10W30 - the viscosity is way too
low
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#501
*********************
