team3s
Wednesday, May 23
2001
Volume 01 : Number
500
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 May 2001 14:35:34 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
This weekend I get the opportunity
again to drive a road course with the
local Porsche Club (Allegheny
Region). This time it is Watkins Glen,
www.theglen.com, near the Finger Lakes in
lower NY.
"The Glen" appears to be a fun track for the higher horsepower
cars whereas
the last track I did, Mid-Ohio, can be equally run in lower
horsepower, more
nimble cars.
And has anyone seen the weather report
for upper central PA and southwestern
NY? It's that green stuff
covering much of the area. Can anybody say,
"Yee-haw! Come on
AWD?" Yep. I plan to have tons-o-fun beating up on the
rear
engine RWD Porsches and see that my only comparisons will be with the
930 (TT
AWD) and a few Audi cars that show up.
Look for a report next week but
I'll look for any hints from anyone who has
run this before.
Thanks
Dave T for the Putnam Park report. Looking forward to more reports
from
more people and more tracks as the season gets underway.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 14:46:17
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: POS seatbelt retractor mechanism
Guys,
I remember a long
time ago someone brought up the topic of our crappy
seatbelt retractor
mechanism....Mine has recently become worse than usual
(it already
sucked).
Seems that I remember that someone said they put armor all on
the seatbelt
or on the loop that the belt passes through to get it to slide
more
easily....did I dream this or have any of you guys tried it and found it
to
help?
Any other suggestions are welcome.
Thanks in
advance.
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:05:30
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Watkins Glen track report
A word of advice about driving on a track in
the rain, every 30 seconds, say
out loud ---- " it's raining, stupid " ----
this helps prevent you from going off the
track in a cloud of mist and
getting mired in the mud. The other drivers hate
it when some bonehead has
caused the delay/suspension of a session by
doing some agricultural racing [
lynchings have been discussed ].
In my limited experience I found that
the car sticks much better than I thought
it would. I'd like some more time
in the rain to hone some
skills.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Schilberg, Darren <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>
This weekend I get the opportunity again to drive a road course with the
>
local Porsche Club (Allegheny Region). This time it is Watkins
Glen,
>
www.theglen.com, near the
Finger Lakes in lower NY.
> And has anyone seen the weather report for
upper central PA and southwestern
> NY? It's that green stuff
covering much of the area. Can anybody say,
> "Yee-haw! Come
on AWD?" Yep. I plan to have tons-o-fun beating up on the
>
rear engine RWD Porsches and see that my only comparisons will be with
the
> 930 (TT AWD) and a few Audi cars that show up.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:09:56
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re-Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly...
A small amount of soap and
water work great also ---- when it dries the
soap residue helps glue things
together.
On a more biological note, a little spit works wonders for lubing
vacuum
hoses ---- you don't have to look around for the dispenser
either.
Jim
berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Volthause <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
> I
noticed that the pressure hoses feeding the turbos/intercoolers/throttle
>
body all fit quite firmly and were a bitch to separate. If I have
problems
> fitting them back together (which I'm fully expecting) is it
okay to put a
> *very light* coating of oil or other lubricant on the
mating surfaces to
> facilitate an easier assembly?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:12:42
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Not to mention that Watkins Glen makes
*you* financially responsible for any
and all damage to the armco that you
cause. You don't want to have to pay
for repairs to you car plus some
hideous piece(s) of blue guard rail.
Scott Holthausen
- -94
VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
To: Schilberg, Darren
<
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>;
Team 3S
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 22, 2001 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Watkins Glen track
report
> A word of advice about driving on a track in the rain, every
30 seconds,
say
> out loud ---- " it's raining, stupid " ---- this
helps prevent you from
going off the
> track in a cloud of mist and
getting mired in the mud. The other drivers
hate
> it when some
bonehead has caused the delay/suspension of a session by
> doing some
agricultural racing [ lynchings have been discussed ].
>
> In my
limited experience I found that the car sticks much better than
I
thought
> it would. I'd like some more time in the rain to hone some
skills.
>
> Jim
Berry
> ===========================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Schilberg, Darren <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>
>
> This weekend I get the opportunity again to drive a road course with
the
> > local Porsche Club (Allegheny Region). This time it is
Watkins Glen,
> >
www.theglen.com,
near the Finger Lakes in lower NY.
>
> > And has anyone seen the
weather report for upper central PA and
southwestern
> > NY?
It's that green stuff covering much of the area. Can anybody say,
>
> "Yee-haw! Come on AWD?" Yep. I plan to have tons-o-fun
beating up on
the
> > rear engine RWD Porsches and see that my only
comparisons will be with
the
> > 930 (TT AWD) and a few Audi cars
that show up.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:20:14
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
AVC-R at altitude
The only thing I can think of is that the pressure
transmitter is sealed to the point
that it can't compensate for altitude ----
the sealed side always thinks it's sea level.
I would think that they have a
very small pinhole to bleed off excess pressure over
a period of several
minutes. It might even cause that hysteresis action that your
seeing in the
boost.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
> SAVC-R
reaches my boost setting quickly and holds it rock-steady every time,
>
EXCEPT at high altitude! As I ascend, the boost begins "sticking" at 7
psi
> (as if the boost controller was turned off) before abruptly
rocketing up to
> my setting. The delay increases the higher I go,
and eventually boost never
> budges from 7 psi. The behavior
reverses as I come back down the other
> side... it will again achieve the
max boost setting after a delay at 7 psi,
> and finally returns to normal
near the bottom, sweeping smoothly through the
> boost
range.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:34:18
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Fuel management question -- Analog Voltmeter
> Where
exactly would a Voltmeter connect to the O2 sensor?
> Does it
matter which O2 sensor I hook up, or should I
> connect to @ least 2 of
them?
Connect to the O2 sensor signal wires at the ECU. Use your
service manual
to locate the correct wires.
> Is there an easy to
reach place in the engine bay where the 2
> wires of a voltmeter can be
spliced in?
Don't do it under the hood - you won't be able to see the
meter. :-)
> Any 0-1 V analog voltmeters you
have/reccomend? I preffer
> this to a multi led A/F ratio
meters. I like seeing
> exact numbers rather than ranges if
possible.
Nothing special, but obviously you want one that will show a
low range,
preferably with a 1V maximum sweep. I use the ARM-1 from
Split Second on my
car (
http://www.splitsec.com). It works fine
for setting idle cruising fuel
settings and gets you in the ballpark for the
WOT settings. For more
specific settings at WOT use something like
this:
(
http://www.jumptronix.com/)
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 16:58:01
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Thanks guys. I too need more
time in the rain to hone the feeling the car
gives. I got some great
backroad "gravel on the turns" driving this past
weekend at the Upper Midwest
Gathering in Wisconsin Dells, WI (thanks Curt).
Got some of it on film to
learn from also.
The big question now to everyone is what tire (or the
two I have) do I use:
street tire or race tire?
Street tire is Pirelli
P-Zero Asymmetrical 245/18
Race tire is Yokohama A-032R 255/17
Street
tire has 20k miles on them about one quarter to one third tread left
and are
asymmetrical tread (directional). Race tires have 200 miles on
them
(one driving event) and non-directional tread.
Who has experience
with these or other street vs. race tires (like Merritt's
report about
running in the rain on street tires or full wet condition vs.
wet but drying
condition).
I leave in three days so I would like to decide before
then.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm
<
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm>
- -----Original Message-----
From Scott Holthausen:
Not to
mention that Watkins Glen makes *you* financially responsible for any
and all
damage to the armco that you cause. You don't want to have to pay
for
repairs to you car plus some hideous piece(s) of blue guard rail.
From
Jim Berry:
A word of advice about driving on a track in the rain, every
30 seconds, say
out loud ---- " it's raining, stupid " ---- this helps
prevent you from
going off the
track in a cloud of mist and getting mired
in the mud. The other drivers
hate
it when some bonehead has caused the
delay/suspension of a session by
doing some agricultural racing [ lynchings
have been discussed ].
In my limited experience I found that the car
sticks much better than I
thought
it would. I'd like some more time in the
rain to hone some skills.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 17:00:49
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: POS seatbelt retractor mechanism
I put in a race seat and
harness and took out the stock seat. I have no use
for the stock
seatbelt now since there is nothing to plug it into.
I do know that the
passenger side has a non-fixable twist in the belt
itself.
I have not
had problems with it other than it does not lock like first gen
VR-4s which
is useful for AutoX racing and such.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Elkin
[mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 2:46 PM
To:
Team 3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: POS seatbelt retractor
mechanism
Guys,
I remember a long time ago someone brought up the
topic of our crappy
seatbelt retractor mechanism....Mine has recently become
worse than usual
(it already sucked).
Seems that I remember that
someone said they put armor all on the seatbelt
or on the loop that the belt
passes through to get it to slide more
easily....did I dream this or have any
of you guys tried it and found it to
help?
Any other suggestions are
welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF
600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 17:08:53
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
The A032R's are used by a lot of track
folks as rain tires, so if you get
into the wet stuff, feel free to use
them. They also stick well in the dry.
If you've already done an
event on stickies and feel comfortable with them,
go for it. If not,
use your streets for the first few sessions until you
get the rhythm of the
track, then switch to stickies to hone down your lap
times. In either
case, if your lap times vary wildly, slow down and learn
the track
better.
I ran five minutes of a wet session at The Glen on Hoosier
RS303's and gave
up. Those are way too closely related to slicks.
I've used A032R's in the
wet at Road Atlanta and they worked
well.
Scott Holthausen
- -94 VR4
- -91 GTI
> The big
question now to everyone is what tire (or the two I have) do I
use:
>
street tire or race tire?
> Street tire is Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetrical
245/18
> Race tire is Yokohama A-032R 255/17
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 17:17:01
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
Thanks, Scott.
I forgot to
mention that stock tread depth on the Yoks are about 6/32 and
that is what
the Pirelli still has left. They also have a good tread
pattern to sipe
away any water.
Good recommendation and thanks for the tips.
Obviously the first two
sessions out of seven is learning the track anyway so
I might stick with
street then switch to race. That will give me a
comparison for later and
for the track report.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Volthause
[mailto:volt@vozuluzov.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 5:09 PM
To:
3000GT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
The A032R's are
used by a lot of track folks as rain tires, so if you get
into the wet stuff,
feel free to use them. They also stick well in the dry.
If you've
already done an event on stickies and feel comfortable with them,
go for
it. If not, use your streets for the first few sessions until you
get
the rhythm of the track, then switch to stickies to hone down your
lap
times. In either case, if your lap times vary wildly, slow down and
learn
the track better.
I ran five minutes of a wet session at The
Glen on Hoosier RS303's and gave
up. Those are way too closely related
to slicks. I've used A032R's in the
wet at Road Atlanta and they worked
well.
Scott Holthausen
- -94 VR4
- -91 GTI
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 16:20:42
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Watkins Glen track report
>The big question now to
everyone is what tire (or the two I have) do I use:
>street tire or race
tire?
>Street tire is Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetrical 245/18
>Race tire
is Yokohama A-032R 255/17
Take both. If the track dries, you'll want the
Yokos for sure.
If there is deep tread left on the Yokos, they'll be a good
rain tire.
But you really can't beat full-tread street tires in the rain
unless you
have a special-purpose racing rain tire.
When you go out
on the wet track, take a lap or two to get heat into the
tires. Don't get
lulled by the fabulous performance you enjoyed in the
previous session, when
you were lapping the entire field twice. If you try
hammering it right away
on cold tires, you'll go off into the grass (been
there, done
that).
You will be amazed at how well the car handles in the wet, how
well it
sticks to the road (on warm tires, that is) and, perhaps more
important,
how well it STOPS. With warm tires, the Big Reds, ABS and our
heavy front
end, you should be able to slow down at an outrageous rate. Then,
you'll be
able to get the power down with the AWD. You will be gobbling up
lesser
cars 100 yards at a time, and overtaking them in a hurry. BE CAREFUL
of the
other cars. They will loop it, get sideways, slide off into the grass,
and
come back on the track right in your path. They will not know you are
back
there because you come up on them so fast. Run with your headlights on
so
they can see you. With our cars, the most dangerous thing about the rain
is
the traffic. And cold tires, of course.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/More
Rain! More Rain!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:12:04
-0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 Failing smog emmisions in California
Charles,
have
a little more info today. i stripped of the plenum last night to do
the plugs and in doing so found that the o-ring on the intercooler pipe
entering the turbo behind the plenum was missing. What kind of effects
do
you think this would cause? could it be the cause of the
hunting?
Also the plenum itself was quite greasy/oily on the interior
surfaces.
Does this indicate anything other than high
mileage?
regards,
Ian
Stock 92 Vr4
>From: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>When
you do an emissions test, you should get a written report.
There's
>stuff written there like CO, Hydrocarbons, low idle, fast idle,
etc.
>"failed all" doesn't help much.
>
>the Idle Servo
Controller ICS is a possibility. That's the part that is
>supposed
to maintain a stable idle (at 750 rpm). the fact that emissions
>are
high suggests incomplete combustion. you might have fouled or
faulty
>injectors. do you get engine cutout at high throttle? you
might also have
>a
>fouled fuel filter, esp if it sat in a yard for
a while. Try running a gas
>tank full of injector cleaner through. how
about a compression test?
>
>Chuck
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: ian sweeney
[SMTP:sween3000gt@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:06
PM
> > To:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 Failing smog emmisions in California
>
>
> > charles,
> >
> > not sure what the readings
were but they failed all emissions. The
>other
> > stuff i
can probably answer
> > engine hunts at idle (850rpm with ac
off)
> > 123,000 miles
> > havent done anything weird with
cats
> > bought from a yard and the guy said the plugs and 120k service
was done!
> > where do you think i should start?
> >
>
> ian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:36:45
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: 3Si Numbers?
Something On Topic: Does anyone know where
to get rear strut bars the
cheapest? I need to put one on my 92RT/TT
and eventually buy the front strut
bar when netm1nder is done fabricating
them. I know accelerated accessories
just sold 2 for cheap, but was
that an everyday price or was that a special?
- -Paul
Norwood,
MA
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
For Sale..
=(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
3Si1127
Diablo
Car Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 21:57:04
-0400
From: "Ken J. Jones" <
KJ_Jones@compuserve.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rebuilt Engine- Cost and Advise wanted
Hello
all,
Just joined the list. We have a 91 3000GT VR4 whose rod knock
graduated to
seized engine.
A local engine shop will rebuild ours with
a 3 year 36k warranty for
$4000-4500, assuming crank and rods are ok. Engine
dropped off to them w/o
turbos/intakes and given back ready to install, with
appropriate gasket
sets. Is this high, low, or in the
ballpark?
Anything to watch out for? This fellow has done the
turbos before, and
seems to talk the talk.
Also, any ballpark for the
removal/installation labor - the above price is
just for the engine, but we
have a mechanic who will do the swap for $500.
Frankly the 3000GT is rare
air for me, swapping engine experience is
limited to old GM 350s in vans and
trucks. Internal experience limited to
motorcycles.
Next task
will be to review 3rd gear's bad synchro...
Ken Jones
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:44:33
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Oil
Pressure Gauge
I just purchased an Autometer #5721 oil pressure
gauge (mechanical). It came
with two fittings to attach to engine,
1/8" and 1/4", but when I removed the
stock pressure sender on my 1991
Stealth TT, the autometer would not fit. (I
assume the stock fitting is
metric).
Any ideas? Should I look for an
adapter, or could anyone suggest where to
find one that would
fit.
Also, I have purchased a mechanical water temp (with 1/2" fitting or
3/8"),
as well as a fuel pressure gauge with a 1/4" and 1/8". Will
these need
adapters as well.
Normally, I would simply drill and tap
for new fittings, but only as a last
resort.
- -Thor (1991 Stealth
TT)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:39:04
-0600
From: "Jaime Soto" <
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: what a F___ rip off
hey guys check this out I took my car to the
dealer to get a new flywheel
and clutch and they kept the car for a month.
Not only that but they also
managed to put a dent in my car and still had
the nerve to steal my lug nut
socket. my car smells like something burnt and
it makes a grinding noise
when I turn left. What should I do.....before
kicking their A**.
thanx
Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:05:29
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what a F___ rip off
Good question - before caving in some
heads, consider
a more logical approach like smashing through the service
windows
with your speeding 3S - they'll never expect it. But
seriously,
I'm still dealing with the second crummy dealer in a matter
of
months. Only after my relentless persistence have they
agreed to replace my
fuse cover they lost and rebate my
diagnosis fee back because I was never
given a complete
run down. The other time they broke off the window switch
cover
and left it sitting on the floor matt and refused to take
responsibility.
There is something seriously wrong with these corporate
institutions
concealed as helpful experts to the public.
john
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaime Soto" <
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 22, 2001 9:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: what a F___ rip
off
> hey guys check this out I took my car to the dealer to get a
new flywheel
> and clutch and they kept the car for a month. Not only
that but they also
> managed to put a dent in my car and still had the
nerve to steal my lug nut
> socket. my car smells like something burnt
and it makes a grinding noise
> when I turn left. What should I
do.....before kicking their A**.
> thanx
>
Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 19:58:05
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rebuilt Engine- Cost and Advise wanted
Ken,
That seems
high considering that does not include the 1000 dollar crank
that WILL need
to be replaced. (someone else can ramble on about why you
can't turn the
crank, I'm a 2 finger typer) And I'm sure at least 1 rod is
trashed too. Did
they mention if it included replacement of potentially
bent valves, or
damaged heads? (something in that area caused the thing to
seize) If you
were near AZ, I could give you a rebuild, and install it too
for about
3500.....
The 500 is about right for a swap
Wayne
At 06:57
PM 5/22/01 , Ken J. Jones wrote
>A local engine shop will rebuild ours
with a 3 year 36k warranty for
>$4000-4500, assuming crank and rods are
ok. Engine dropped off to them w/o
>turbos/intakes and given back ready to
install, with appropriate gasket
>sets. Is this high, low, or in the
ballpark?
>
>Also, any ballpark for the removal/installation labor -
the above price is
>just for the engine, but we have a mechanic who will
do the swap for $500.
>
>Ken Jones
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:02:41
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: what a F___ rip off
Well, i dont know about all that other stuff,
but i think i know why it's
making noise when you turn left (provided it's a
thunking/clunking noise)
They probably took out the driver side axle in 2
pieces and didn't press
them together before re-installing
it.
Wayne
At 07:39 PM 5/22/01 , Jaime Soto wrote:
>it
makes a grinding noise when I turn left.
.
>thanx
>
>Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 23:19:27
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: what a F___ rip off
IF you talk to the service manager and no
luck..
Talk to the General Manager, and if no luck..
Talk to the
Owner.
IF, and ONLY IF, those fail, look up your local Better Business Bureau
online
at
www.bbb.org, and submit a
complaint. Unfortunately, BBB is really your
strongest defense (better
than Mitsu themselves), and if that don't work you
have small claims court
and the Attorney General still.
Best of luck, I've been thru it 2wice
now.
Ken Stanton
2 - '91 Pearl White R/T TT's
Organizer - 3Si Rochester
(NY)
Jaime Soto wrote:
> hey guys check this out I took my car
to the dealer to get a new flywheel
> and clutch and they kept the car for
a month. Not only that but they also
> managed to put a dent in my car and
still had the nerve to steal my lug nut
> socket. my car smells like
something burnt and it makes a grinding noise
> when I turn left. What
should I do.....before kicking their A**.
> thanx
>
Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:16:30
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rebuilt Engine- Cost and Advise wanted
I vaguely
remember seeing a post on this list that said rebuilt short
blocks were
available for $3500. Maybe you can find it in the archives.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 23:35:12
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rebuilt Engine- Cost and Advise wanted
I paid $3000 for a NEW OEM
4-bolt short block. This was at a Mitsu dealer
that offered me a 25%
discount for being a 3SI member....
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo Hybrid
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:46:47
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rebuilt Engine- Cost and Advise wanted
Seems like a new
short block is a better solution than fixing the old 91
engine, eh? It's the
same $500 for replacing the motor, plus another few
hundred to swap the
heads.
Rich/old poop
At 11:35 PM 5/22/01 -0400, Jeff VanOrsdal
wrote:
>I paid $3000 for a NEW OEM 4-bolt short block. This was at a
Mitsu dealer
>that offered me a 25% discount for being a 3SI
member....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 23:15:43
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Building an engine
This business about the replacement short
block has me wondering.
If someone was inclined to build a killer 650 hp
motor, would it be a good
idea to start with a brand new OEM short
block?
Seems to me that $3,000 for a new shortblock eliminates most of the
labor
cost involved in a basic rebuild, and it provides all new parts. Also,
with
the short block sitting on an engine stand, it should be easy to
replace
the pistons with forged versions and whatever other super parts are
needed.
Then, if you bought a blown 91 engine for a song from some poor
soul who
had a bad rod bearing, you could take off the heads, send them out
for a
port and polish, and make any other necessary mods.
Since you
are not in any hurry -- the target car is still running around on
its
perfectly good stock motor -- you could take the time to do
everything
right.
Does this sound like a good approach? I hear
of people spending $10,000 to
$20,000 on engine rebuilds and mods and I
wonder where all the money goes.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 21:37:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what a F___ rip off
Blow the BBB...useless, no
teeth..
Go up the Manufactuer chain..never yell, write good
letters.
On Tue, 22 May 2001, Ken Stanton wrote:
> IF you talk
to the service manager and no luck..
> Talk to the General Manager, and if
no luck..
> Talk to the Owner.
> IF, and ONLY IF, those fail, look
up your local Better Business Bureau online
> at
www.bbb.org, and submit a complaint.
Unfortunately, BBB is really your
> strongest defense (better than Mitsu
themselves), and if that don't work you
> have small claims court and the
Attorney General still.
>
> Best of luck, I've been thru it 2wice
now.
> Ken Stanton
> 2 - '91 Pearl White R/T TT's
> Organizer
- 3Si Rochester (NY)
>
> Jaime Soto wrote:
>
> >
hey guys check this out I took my car to the dealer to get a new
flywheel
> > and clutch and they kept the car for a month. Not only
that but they also
> > managed to put a dent in my car and still had
the nerve to steal my lug nut
> > socket. my car smells like something
burnt and it makes a grinding noise
> > when I turn left. What should I
do.....before kicking their A**.
> > thanx
> >
Jaime
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 21:40:57
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
POS seatbelt retractor mechanism
FYI --- the competition belt is not DOT
approved, meaning you could get
a ticket for not wearing a seat belt. I've
never heard of a problem but it is
a possibility.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Schilberg, Darren <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>
I put in a race seat and harness and took out the stock seat. I have no
use
> for the stock seatbelt now since there is nothing to plug it
into.
>
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar,
Sparco Evo race seat,
> Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug
plate
>
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 23:39:09
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rebuilt Engine- Cost and Advise wanted
I paid $3,100
from the dealer for a new short block for my 92 VR4 w/2 bolt
main. I
got a 12 month warranty through the Dealer. They would not put a 4
bolt in
because it was being covered by a warranty and they had to stay
with
stock.
While the engine was out, I had them rebuild the head. Put
a new water pump
and a new timing belt and tensioner.
I hope this
helps.
Rgds
Moe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 23:52:47
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: what a F___ rip off
I got this from Ben Dover. It is a long
story on how I came accross this.
I used these steps and I got the warranty
company to replace my engine after
they had denied my claim three
times. It really works. It may take a while
to get it resolved
but you need to fight, fight, fight and have everything
documented. Just
state the facts and keep emotion out of it.
DO NOT TAKE NO FOR AN
ANSWER. EVEN IF THE OWNER OF THE DEALERSHIP TELLS YOU
TO FU$%^
OFF.
SIX STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL COMPLAINING
Here's SIX STEPS TO
SUCCESSFUL COMPLAINING that every consumer can benefit
from when they think
they've been wronged by a company of any size:
a-Always Paper Your Trail: If
you've got a gripe, put it in writing and
document your conversations,
correspondence, etc. with the company.
b-Dover's Rule: Always get Names,
Faces, Numbers & Places. Take notes!
You're not always able to get people
to give you their name, especially in
an adversarial situation. Names: Always
be sure to ask for the person you're
dealing with's' name and title...and ask
them their full name and title
EARLY and before anything gets
heated/adversarial. Faces: If they won't give
it up, write down a description
[if you're face-to-face] of the person
you're dealing with. Numbers: If they
won't give up any information, write
down specific notes that you'll
understand and be able to interpret later if
necessary. Numbers can include
the exact time your conversation started, the
number you called, the length
of the phone call. Places: Always note where
the event occurred, and of
course, day/date/time of the transaction in
question. If you're calling a
company, ask the person that answers the phone
what city/state they're
located in; note the day/date/time of your call.
c-Pull the Trigger Early: If
you don't get immediate satisfaction on a local
level or toll-free number
early, then quit wasting your time and move up the
management ladder swiftly!
Use the Internet to locate their home/main
office, and even go to their
website to find out the name of the Chairman of
the Board and President of
the company, and send them a Certified Letter.
d-Clearly Define What You Want
To Make You Happy: Don't just whine...DEFINE!
Explain your situation and how
you felt you were wronged, but then CLEARLY
DEFINE what it will take to make
you happy. Give the company an idea of what
it's going to take to make you
happy and start over with a clean slate. You
might be surprised at how
quickly they come around when you clearly state a
remedy to their lapse in
customer service.
e-"cc" the Media!: When you fire out your letters, be sure
to cc: (the old
term used to note who is getting a copy of your letter) a
list of
people/organizations on your side, such as the Texas Attorney
General's
Office, the Federal Trade Commission, and of course, local media
resources
like yours truly, Benjamin Dover.
f-NEVER Give Up! NEVER take no
for an answer, unless and until you're told
by the top dogs of the company
you're demanding satisfaction from to buzz
off and even then, don't give up
until you talk to an expert (like an
consumer-oriented attorney or someone
like Benjamin Dover) that can advise
you on where you stand and if you're
dealing from a position of strength or
weakness.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 04:21:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Pressure Gauge
For the fuel pressure gauge, you
will have to add a sender at or
before the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The
there is no stock
gauge. A sender or gauge at the FPR would be best because
this is
after all the injectors and you would know the injectors have
at
least as much pressure as the gauge measured. The stock FPR would
have
to be modified for this or an aftermarket FPR used. A second
choice for
location would be to splice into the soft fuel line after
the fuel filter. I
have instructions for this at my web page below.
This location verifies that
the pump is "providing" sufficient
pressure but cannot tell if there is
sufficient pressure (43 psi plus
boost psi) to all the injectors.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-fp_install.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 22, 2001 8:44 PM
Subject: Team3S: Oil Pressure
Gauge
<snip>
Also, I have purchased a mechanical water temp (with
1/2" fitting or
3/8"), as well as a fuel pressure gauge with a 1/4" and
1/8". Will
these need adapters as
well.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 07:44:46
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: what a F___ rip off
Yeah...
Well, problem is, some
dealerships are privately owned... like in our case. We can
send Mitsu
100 complaints, but they can't do @#$! because the dealer really isn't
being
watched by Father Mitsu.
Ken
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Blow
the BBB...useless, no teeth..
>
> Go up the Manufactuer chain..never
yell, write good letters.
>
> On Tue, 22 May 2001, Ken Stanton
wrote:
>
> > IF you talk to the service manager and no
luck..
> > Talk to the General Manager, and if no luck..
> >
Talk to the Owner.
> > IF, and ONLY IF, those fail, look up your local
Better Business Bureau online
> > at
www.bbb.org, and submit a complaint.
Unfortunately, BBB is really your
> > strongest defense (better than
Mitsu themselves), and if that don't work you
> > have small claims
court and the Attorney General still.
> >
> > Best of luck,
I've been thru it 2wice now.
> > Ken Stanton
> > 2 - '91 Pearl
White R/T TT's
> > Organizer - 3Si Rochester (NY)
> >
>
> Jaime Soto wrote:
> >
> > > hey guys check this out I
took my car to the dealer to get a new flywheel
> > > and clutch and
they kept the car for a month. Not only that but they also
> > >
managed to put a dent in my car and still had the nerve to steal my lug
nut
> > > socket. my car smells like something burnt and it makes a
grinding noise
> > > when I turn left. What should I do.....before
kicking their A**.
> > > thanx
> > >
Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 08:23:15
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: POS seatbelt retractor mechanism
Jim,
Thanks. I covered this back when I installed the harness (how is
your
setup doing and are there any notes for the list to know about?).
I am
illegal and had to install the stock seat and seatbelt in order to
pass
inspection a month ago. True I can get a ticket for not wearing a
seatbelt
but we all know that the harness is safer than the OEM
belt.
I also have not heard of someone getting pulled over for
wearing a
harness and not a seatbelt but here in PA you can not get pulled
over for
simply not wearing your seatbelt. However, if you are pulled
over for
another infraction (speeding, going through a Stop sign, etc.) and
you also
do not have your seatbelt on then they can add another fine onto the
ticket.
Something else about kids under a certain age are required but adults
over a
certain age are not mandated to wear them. I say wear them at
all times.
Most times I have a passenger so it is harder but
without them sometimes
I can "cheat" and plug my seatbelt into their seatbelt
connector thing and
get around it that way. What I have heard is that
IF I am ever pulled over
then the person might be lenient since I have a race
seat, rollbar, 5-point
harness, and race brakes on the car. Obviously
not just a street car.
Maybe they will see that it is setup properly and
agree that the harness is
safer and let me go with a warning. I hope I
don't have to find out.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si #577 (the
only person with this number I believe, Paul)
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds,
Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a
custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 23, 2001 12:41 AM
To: Schilberg, Darren; 'Team 3S
(E-mail)'
Subject: Re: Team3S: POS seatbelt retractor mechanism
FYI
--- the competition belt is not DOT approved, meaning you could get
a ticket
for not wearing a seat belt. I've never heard of a problem but it
is
a
possibility.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 06:23:11
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what a F___ rip off
What dealership?
I am having my
car repainted on the 30th due to negligence on behalf of my local dealership,
Capitol Mitsubishi (San Jose, Ca.).
Had to get my starter replaced, which
should only take a couple of hours, but they had my car eight days! They
splattered some solvent on my car, then buffed through the clearcoat to try to
hide it. They couldn't hide the dent on my fender too well either!
I hate
dealerships...I am currently writing letters to Mitsubishi Motor Corp. of
America, the Better Business Bureau, and the California Bureau of Automotive
Repair. I filed an insurance claim,, and am in the process of pursuing them
civilly to the fullest extent of the law. I would recommend a similar
action.
Good luck!
Dan Jett
San Jose, Ca
94 Stealth
TT
>>> "Jaime Soto" <
lightspeed_gto@hotmail.com> -
5/22/01 7:39 PM >>>
hey guys check this out I took my car to the
dealer to get a new flywheel
and clutch and they kept the car for a month.
Not only that but they also
managed to put a dent in my car and still had
the nerve to steal my lug nut
socket. my car smells like something burnt and
it makes a grinding noise
when I turn left. What should I do.....before
kicking their A**.
thanx
Jaime
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 06:59:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
FIX: Ball Joint Nut Tightening
My earlier problem (repeated below) has
been fixed!
To tighten the ball joint nut, put a jack up under the
outer
portion of the control arm (not under the joint
itself). Apply some
weight to the control arm with
the jack and it will lock the joint into
place, then
the nut can be tightened.
Thanks to Hans, Pete, and Wayne
for your help!!
Ken
- --- Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
Hmmmmmm...
>
> Well, I am on the last part of replacing my
control
> arm/ball joint, and
> this ones got me puzzled...
>
> When I try to tighten down the nut on the ball
> joint, the
entire joint
> spins, instead of just the nut. Well, I checked
the
> manual, and it says
> that the 'starting torque' of the ball
joint should
> be far less than
> what the nut is supposed to be
torqued to. In other
> words, it is
> supposed to just
turn!?!?
>
> I tried gripping the joint with some vicegrips,
no
> go joe.
> Any and all help most appreciated!!
>
>
Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White R/T TT
> Organizer - 3Si Rochester
(NY)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#500
*********************