team3s
Tuesday, May 22
2001
Volume 01 : Number
499
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 May 2001 12:52:33 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing belt change *time* interval?
Age has a major factor
also. The "tensioner" can physically wear out I
would imagine, although
I do not know how long it takes before this
happens. Also, the timing
belt is a rubber coated belt, so it can also
wear out, deterioration, etc.
etc. It also stretches, and it doesn't
have to be running in order to
stretch... I would say closer to 7 years
would be safe, although, I'll
leave that up to someone else to decide,
maybe someone has some personal
experience...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Gross, Erik
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 11:48 AM
To: Team3S
List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Timing belt change *time*
interval?
I know it's been discussed ad nauseam here that timing
belts get changed
at
60K, and that the Nike slogan applies. However,
I looked through the
service manual and it makes no mention of a *time*
interval to change
the
belt for low-mileage cars. I've heard that
you should change it after 5
years or 60K, whichever comes first, but I can't
find any actual
documentation to that effect. So - say you only
drive 30,000 in 5
years -
still change the belt? Is the replacement
due mainly to mechanical
wear,
age, or both?
Thanks!
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 13:01:40
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing belt change *time* interval?
We've had four relatively
(not EXTREMELY) low mileage VR4's and changed the
timing belts out at / near
60K miles without incident. The time from
manufacture to change was mid
1992 to mid 1998, mid 1992 to mid 1999, mid
1992 to late 1999, and mid 1993
to early 2001. That's 6 years, 7 years, 7.5
years, and 7.75
years. The longest time was for the car that was probably
out in the
elements the most. I think five years is a little soon, but 7
years is
plenty of aging. Let's say, based on our sample of four vehicles,
that
it should be changed before 8 years!
All nonmetallic materials
age. They oxidize, their plasticizer evaporates,
and they become
brittle and crosslinked. Heat accellerates these processes,
as does
smog. Aging compromises the physical properties of the
material.
Each of these cars lost nonmetallic parts, 1st tubing, then
hoses, last
belts.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:
Monday, May 21, 2001 11:48 AM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt change *time* interval?
>
>
> I know
it's been discussed ad nauseam here that timing belts get changed
>
at
> 60K, and that the Nike slogan applies. However, I looked
through the
> service manual and it makes no mention of a *time* interval
to change the
> belt for low-mileage cars. I've heard that you
should change it after 5
> years or 60K, whichever comes first, but I
can't find any actual
> documentation to that effect. So - say
you only drive 30,000 in 5 years
> -
> still change the belt?
Is the replacement due mainly to mechanical wear,
> age, or both?
>
> Thanks!
> --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 13:27:04
-0700
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 Failing smog emmisions in California
Hi all,
I have a
92 VR4 which i am in the process of selling. By law in California
the seller
has to bring the car for a smog/emissions test. THis i did at the
weekend
nad the car failed! quite badly. My question is where should i
start
looking first? One hting i noted was that they did readings at idel
and
2500rpm and the motor was hunting up and down even though the throttle
was
held steady.
any help would be much appreciated
ian
stock '92
vr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:47:32
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR-4 Grinding in 2nd and 3rd
Several folks asked about the parts
I ordered from Mitsupartsdirect.Com and
Kormex (stock clutch, throwout
bearing, slave cylinder, main seal, 2nd gear
blocking ring and tranny seal
kit), so I put together a quick web page with
pictures and descriptions:
http://www.team3s.com/~matthews/getrag.html-
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 16:45:54
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 Failing smog emmisions in California
Ian,
I just went
through this with my VW. If the CO2 reading is high, it's
probably the
O2 sensor(s). Replace those first, and your troubles *may*
go
away.
- -Scott Holthausen
- -'94 VR4
> My question is
where should i
> start looking first?
> any help would be much
appreciated
>
> ian
> stock '92 vr4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 15:58:57
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 Failing smog emmisions in California
you need to tell us
which readings failed and by how much. Does the engine
hunt at
idle? What rpm is it idling at, w/ac off? How many miles on
the
car? when was it last serviced (like spark plugs and PCV
valve)? Done
anything odd with your catalytic convertors?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: ian sweeney
[SMTP:sween3000gt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 3:27
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: VR4 Failing smog emmisions in California
>
> Hi
all,
>
> I have a 92 VR4 which i am in the process of selling. By
law in California
>
> the seller has to bring the car for a
smog/emissions test. THis i did at
> the
> weekend nad the car
failed! quite badly. My question is where should i
> start looking
first? One hting i noted was that they did readings at idel
> and 2500rpm
and the motor was hunting up and down even though the throttle
>
>
was held steady.
>
> any help would be much appreciated
>
> ian
> stock '92 vr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 16:20:21
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR-4 Grinding in 2nd and 3rd
No, it's not possible to get more parts from
Getrag USA.
Getrag got rid of all their inventory of parts for our
transmissions in
2000, when it was all sold to CRS rebuilders who now do all
the rebuilds for
the factory.
Jack Tertadian
ps, Metric Mechanic
ended up not doing any real work on the 2 used
transmissions that were sent
to them to look at and try to re-do/improve.
Metric Mechanic (without telling
me) sent them to Jim Blanton Transmissions
who said he'd take over and do the
"Metric Mechanic"-type upgrade (like they
have done to improve BMW-Getrags)
but I haven't heard anything since.
What a disappointment this is,
to me and everybody else who had a hand in
this project...donating money for
the cores, the shipping costs etc. to get
the stuff to Metric Mechanic
etc. I sure had high hopes, since they DO it
for the BMW Getrags
already. Sigh. Grrr.
I have to say, Kormex seems to have sort
of taken our transmissions under
their wings and thank you to Frank and
the Kormex people for that!
Jack Tertadian
From: "Floyd, Jim"
<
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 21, 2001
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR-4 Grinding in 2nd and
3rd
> What was Jack's '98 Gertag deal and could it be done again
?
> From: Jim Matthews [mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
> Sent:
Friday, May 18, 2001
> I just bought a new 2nd gear synchro blocking ring
from
>
http://www.kormextrans.com
for $125 (I have a full set of synchros for my
> 6-speed from Jack's '98
Getrag deal, but I thought I'd save those and take
> advantage of Kormex's
stock). My 2nd gear synchro got bad at right around
> 60k miles, but
I've managed to drive another 23k miles by pausing between
> shifts.
Good luck!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 16:25:44
-0700
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Trouble
Greetings,
Changed the battery last night in my 92
RT/TT... put a marine battery in...
450cca @ 0 deg 525mca @ 32 deg... now I
have strange things happening...
when the car is in motion the ABS light
flickers and I when I apply the
brakes it gives out a little at a time about
every second... all electric
items quite working when key is off... ie.
Antenna doesn't drop, doors won't
lock, interior lights don't work... is it
the choice in the battery or a
fuse... and if a fuse... which fuse should I
look for... under the dash or
around the engine bay... Any help will be
appreciated.
Justin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:24:15
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Alignment Settings
My tires are wearing on the outside edge of
the car at a much greater rate
than the inside, even though I rotate at 3000
mile intervals. I think a
four wheel alignment is in order. My
car is not lowered and all suspension
components are stock. Should I
just get it set to stock spec or can I
improve the handling with different
settings?
Thanks,
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:17:06
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Urgent: Ball Joint Nut Tightening
Hmmmmmm...
Well, I am on the
last part of replacing my control arm/ball joint, and
this ones got me
puzzled...
When I try to tighten down the nut on the ball joint, the
entire joint
spins, instead of just the nut. Well, I checked the
manual, and it says
that the 'starting torque' of the ball joint should be
far less than
what the nut is supposed to be torqued to. In other
words, it is
supposed to just turn!?!?
I tried gripping the joint with
some vicegrips, no go joe.
Any and all help most appreciated!!
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Organizer - 3Si Rochester
(NY)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 21:12:36
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Open Track #2
Just got back from open track number two at Putnam
Park near Indy. For
reasons unknown to me, they (the Ohio chapter BMW
club) put me in the
beginner class-D. Heres a short list of
impressions:
Porterfields held up, but brakes faded in a few laps
anyway. With a couple
of exceptions, every car in class D was lapped at
least once per 20 minute
session. It took instructor (911 driver) 5
sessions before he got
comfortable with WOT through every turn. I was
able to hit the same top
speed down the front stretch as my instructors race
prepped 911 and still
coast into the brake zone of turn one. EGT's,
water temps, and oil pressure
were rock solid in the `just another drive in
the park' range. Handling
beyond the limit is phenomenal. Going
into turns hot and trailing throttle,
these cars have what seems like a
supernatural way of slowly hanging the
tail out just enough to hold your line
until you scrub off enough speed to
get hooked up again. Someday soon I
hope to use this technique
intentionally. My best lap times put me
solidly in group B or fast in group
C (On street tires and no brakes).
My instructor rated chassis and
suspension dynamics a 9 out of 10. Few
cars make it easier to humble other
beginners. For those who are
thinking about open track school, go, and
prepare to be fast. Until I
get on the track, I forget how much I love
these
cars.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads
and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://www.netzero.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 19:56:36
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Urgent: Ball Joint Nut Tightening
Try jacking it up from under
the ball joint while the strut spring acts
against it...
At 07:17
PM 5/21/01 , Ken Stanton wrote:
>Hmmmmmm...
>
>Well, I am on
the last part of replacing my control arm/ball joint, and
>this ones got
me puzzled...
>
>When I try to tighten down the nut on the ball
joint, the entire joint
>spins, instead of just the nut. Well, I
checked the manual, and it says
>that the 'starting torque' of the ball
joint should be far less than
>what the nut is supposed to be torqued
to. In other words, it is
>supposed to just
turn!?!?
>
>I tried gripping the joint with some vicegrips, no go
joe.
>Any and all help most appreciated!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:06:53
-0500
From: "Gary Walton" <
aeronca@viptx.net>
Subject: Team3S:
New member needs Getrag help.
Hello to all,
I am new to the list, I
have been following the posts for some time and
would like to compliment all
who are involved on the quality of this site. I
have a 92 3K GT VR4 which is
completely stock, has 54,000 miles, in
excellent condition except for some
minor items and a bad transmission
center shaft(splines are worn off). I have
looked everywhere for information
on repairing the transmission. This list is
a "gold mine" of info. Thank you
all for your input. I am going to order
parts (from Kormex) to repair the
tranny, and I would like advice on what
pieces to order (from Kormex as well
as Mitsu). The 1-2 synchro is also
getting bad, so I plan on replacing
whatever is needed there as well. I am
not a professional mechanic, but I
have done my own maintenance and repairs
on all my vehicles all my life (56
years) , including a number of manual
trans overhauls.
My questions are:
Should I attempt the repair myself, or
pull the trans and take it to a shop
to have it done(don't like shops)
?
Are special tools required which cannot be fabricated?
What all
should I consider replacing during this project? ie.,
Clutch, (it's ok
now and I don't intend to increase horsepower in the
future, and I am not
rough on the clutch)
Center shaft and transfer coupling gear,
I
understand the transfer coupling must be replaced with the new
shaft,
anything else in the transfer I should look at ?
Seals ?, are
these available only from Mitsu?
I have had no lubricant leaks, and no
bearing noise
Also, what is the life expectancy of the factory struts,
are Gabriels worth
the extra money over "standard" aftermarket
struts?
I am sorry this post is so long, I will keep them shorter in the
future. I
have been looking in the archives, and have gained a lot info
there.
Thanks in advance for any help .
Gary Walton, Goliad
TX
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 23:24:21
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Lash Adjuster Website and Random Bitching...
Who has a page on
Lash Adjuster replacement? I know John Adam's has one, but
I like to
see more than one so I can compare the two and get a better idea of
what I'm
doing. It also gives me more camera angles. I think I may do
it.
My RT/TT's ticking is extremely loud.
I'm starting to
wonder if it even is the lifter. It starts and stops, on and
off, and
I'm not sure if it goes away after the car is warmed up. I haven't
driven it much yet since I lost my license but I'd like to get some things
done before I get the car on the road. Also I have to fix my fuel
injector.
One of them is leaking. =( I might just go out
and get 550cc injectors and
a fuel computer, but I'd really like to hold off
a couple weeks until I get
some more money. anyone got an extra lying
around they'll give me for a
reasonable price?
- -Paul
15 days until I
get my license back!
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
For
Sale.. =(
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N
FIPK
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors &
Pads
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com>
Well, installed new style lash adjusters in this weekend,and although it's
> too early to tell everyone that they completely eliminate ticking, I
will
> keep everyone updated. Comparing the differences between the old a
new
> adjusters, I'm fairly positive that this will cure the problem. As
far as
> valve compression tools go, we found that a serving spoon from
Safeway
worked
> the best. You know one of those plastic handle and
plastic spoon portion
with
> a metal shaft between. Well, break the
spoon portion off and voila! One
$3.95
> plus tax, valve
compressor.
>
> The good news is the engine sounds
soooo much better, even better than
when
> the old adjusters were
working right.
>
> Bad news is that I found out why my
car never quite rev'd up to redline as
> well as it should, nor had the
power that it should. Pulled the aft valve
> cover off and noticed
something was missing, yup, one roller rocker had
> popped out and was
laying in the bottom of the head between a exhaust
spring
> and the
inside wall. Good thing it was an intake rocker, whew! By looking
at
> the condition of the bearing surface, it looked as though it had been
missing
> since soon after the car was built. Better power now, with
a smooth rev.
> right up to banging on the limiter.
>
> Man! I feel like I have a new car all over again!
>
Michael S. Dean
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 23:30:28
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Trouble
> ... is it the choice in the battery or a fuse...
The battery type shouldn't be an effect on the car's electronics like
that.
I'm using a 1000CA 800CCA Marine battery and I have no
problems. The only
thing I can think of it that it's a coincidence
that your bulb is blinking
and/or that you may have blown a fuse for the
other things. I don't think
that it's the computer because it would
have been reset when you disconnected
the battery. Good luck, tell us
what you find.
- -Paul
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
For
Sale.. =(
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N
FIPK
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors &
Pads
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
3Si1127
Diablo Car
Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 03:29:43
From: "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HELP... possible problem in head??
No, not me, i'm not
insane :)
It was brought to my attention that the problem that i'm having
with my car
may be a rocker arm that came off and is somewhere in the
head. A post on
the starnet list was forwarded to me and it describes
very similar (if not
identical) symptoms causing the same problems:
won't rev past 6k rpms,
hesitation, and rough idle. if a copy of the
starnet post is needed, i
could send that if you might need more
info.
My question is, could I, a DIY mechanic who knows what he's talking
about,
do it myself? what would be involved in putting a rocker arm
back in place
(if it's not messed up too bad)? thanks for your help
and just tell me if
you would like to see the email of the starnet
list.
- --Kevin Umbreit
'91 R/T non turbo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 21:14:05
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New member needs Getrag help.
Gary
I sent the attached email
concerning disassembly of the Getrag a year or so
ago ---- it has some basic
information plus if you have additional questions
ask away, frank at Kormex
is a good source of info also.
stock clutch seems to work fine for most
folk if you're running a stock setup.
The output shaft only needs to be
replaced if the splines are worn, if the splines
are worn the transfer case
has the same problems. Make sure any repair has
matching spline count on the
output shaft and the transfer case.
Kormex sells seal kits for the trans
---- They don't have the input shaft seal
as it's part of a bearing [ I think
].
They also have bearing kits --- I didn't replace mine since they
looked good.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Gary Walton <
aeronca@viptx.net>
. I am going to
order parts (from Kormex) to repair the
> tranny, and I would like advice
on what pieces to order (from Kormex as well
> as Mitsu). The 1-2 synchro
is also getting bad, so I plan on replacing
> whatever is needed there as
well. I am not a professional mechanic, but I
> have done my own
maintenance and repairs on all my vehicles all my life (56
> years) ,
including a number of manual trans overhauls.
> My questions are:
>
Should I attempt the repair myself, or pull the trans and take it to a
shop
> to have it done(don't like shops) ?
> Are special tools
required which cannot be fabricated?
>
> What all should I consider
replacing during this project? ie.,
>
> Clutch, (it's ok now and I
don't intend to increase horsepower in the
> future, and I am not rough on
the clutch)
>
> Center shaft and transfer coupling gear,
> I
understand the transfer coupling must be replaced with the new shaft,
>
anything else in the transfer I should look at ?
>
> Seals ?, are
these available only from Mitsu?
> I have had no lubricant leaks, and no
bearing noise
filename="Re Team3S Synchros needed.eml"
From:
"Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
>
>
Jim,
>
> What is your background regarding manual transaxels?
The reason I ask is,
> taking one of these trannys apart something
that your typical "shadetree
> mechanic" should attempt? I feel that
I'm a competent mechanic(I've done
> the 60K and replaced my own clutch on
my car)
> Did you need any special tools to disassemble the
transmission.
==========================================================
A marginally
gifted but patient person can do all necessary work -- a digital camera
would
be nice. I've done a trans before so I know the major
components.
special tools --- I did need an impact wrench for the back
bolt and a spring clip remover.
Plus some stuff needs pulling so I
farmed out the press work. I started from the
back --- wrong
move!!!
=============================================================
>
This is what I envision if I were able to get a synchro assembly.
>
> -Disassemble the transmission(I understand that the trick here is to
remove
> the black plug and remove the bolts behind the plug).
>
-Inspect the gears and look for any damage.
> -Clean
everything
> -Replace the 1-2 and 3-4 synchros...Any tricks here??
>
-Assemble the transmission...Any tricks
here??
=============================================================
Start
from the front [ Bell housing end ] --- the only spring loaded parts are
the
detent springs for the shift forks and the shifter mechanism.
Loosen the detent cover
bolts [ rear of the trans, two 10mm hex head ] then
pry up cover so as not to launch the
springs. Remove bolts, remove springs,
remove ball bearing. The shift mechanism needs to
be wiggled out and there
is a spring forcing it upward, mine fell out and it drops to the
bottom of
the trans [ inside of course --- which ain't bad if you're removing everything
].
After removing the front cover you need to remove the front output shaft [
It's a concentric
shaft that fits into the output shaft of the viscous
coupling ---it just lifts out ]. Next remove
the center differential, it too
just lifts out [ it's heavy ].
Next you can remove the center trans housing,
easier said than done. you need to pry, lift,
tilt, swear, pray and use your
special book of German incantations , but it does lift off.
You are now left
with the input shaft, intermediate shaft, shift forks and viscous coupling all
stuck in the end cap. The viscous coupling will come out at this point [
remember, I did this
the other way around]. Now comes the 'bolt' --
it's a 7mm allen head and mine was TIGHT!!
I used a Snap-on star wrench and a
1/2" impact. After removing the 'bolt' I find the shaft is
still pressed in [
curses and swear words ]. I was able to remove the shaft by setting it on the
proper size socket then tapping on the rear cover until it popped out. At
this point you have
what is known as a Getrag transmission kit.
Without
specs I could only look for abnormal wear and since I have a set of the
precious
synchros I know what they should look like new.
To get at the 1-2
synchros on the intermediate shaft you need to remove a keeper
ring,
press off a taper bearing cage and race, remove 1st gear and it's
needle bearing then
press off the 2nd gear which will remove the1st gear
needle bearing race and the synchro
assembly. Whew !!
There are spring
loaded detent balls [ three ] in the synchro so watch it.
3-4 is a little
tougher -- I left it alone after an aborted attempt. After removing a keeper
ring
the fixed first gear needs to be pressed off. I chickened out at 6 tons
and no movement.
I found out later that it might require 10 tons and the
application of heat to the gear. You
need a competent trans guy to do that
work.
Be patient and keep track of parts!!!!!!!!!! Bag and label stuff ----
take
pictures!!!!!!
==============================================================
>
You said that you took it apart to inspect it before installing. What
are
> you using to determine whether or not something is within
spec. Are you
> just visually inspecting the components for
wear/damage
==============================================================
I
was only able to look for abnormal wear plus I believed the trans to be good.
You can get
seals and bearings from GTR motorsports. Changing bearings
changes internal
specs.
============================================================
>
What are you going to use for torque specs?? I was going to use the
section
> of the service manual that covers the manual transmission for
the FWD
> versions of our cars as a guide?? Are they similar enough
to do
this?
============================================================
The
only torque's are the bolts holding the case together --- use the FWD
spec.
=========================================================
> Are
you taking pictures as you do this? If you have pictures, I would
>
appreciate it if you would send them to
me.
=========================================================
I hope to
but I haven't done so yet. I can get you some digital pics if you have
special
requests.
This was an overview only --- What I wrote in ten
words might require 1/2 hour of
thought to accomplish.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 21:27:39
-0700
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trouble
It was the fuseable link for the
alternator...
Guess I popped it somehow...
Justin
92
Emerald RT/TT
New Air cleaner
New Battery
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 00:53:20
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Injector O-Ring Size?
Does anyone know the exact size of the
O-Rings on the Stock Injectors? I
noticed my injector is leaking so I
pulled it and realized it's the O-Ring
that goes on the part of the injector
that goes into the fuel rail. I'll
pick one up at a plumbing supply or
hardware store tomorrow and just want to
make sure I get the right
size.
- -Paul
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
For
Sale.. =(
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N
FIPK
1000CA 800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & Pads
Denso Platinum
Spark Plugs Re-gapped @ .034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost
Controller @ .9 Bar
15K miles on Rebuilt
Engine
3Si1127
Diablo Car Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:44:41
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS Light
I have noticed at times that the ABS light flickers and
sometimes remains
on, if I turn off the car and then back on it goes out. I
have had it into
the Mitsu dealer who fitted a new set of pads, could this
effect it? Is
there a switch/sensor to check?
OK off to get my
AC charged.
- --
George Shaw - CTO
XL Solutions
Ltd
Email:
george.shaw@xlsolutions.comEmail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comOffice:
+44 (0) 28 9092 5000
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 08:22:21
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
RE:Fuel management question -- Analog Voltmeter
Matt,
>Also
consider an analog voltmeter to help set cruising fuel trims
Where
exactly would a Voltmeter connect to the O2 sensor? Does it
matter
which O2 sensor I hook up, or should I connect to @ least 2 of
them?
Is there an easy to reach place in the engine bay where the 2 wires
of a
voltmeter can be spliced in?
Any 0-1 V analog voltmeters you
have/reccomend? I preffer this to a multi
led A/F ratio meters. I
like seeing exact numbers rather than ranges if
possible.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 08:37:44
-0400
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Loose
steering question
I have a 91 VR4 -when it sits at idle I have about 1.5"
inches of play in
the steering wheel, is there any way to tighten that
up? What should I
check?
Thanks
Steve
'91 3000 GT
VR4
'91 944 S2
'84 944 Lux
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 06:31:40
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HELP... possible problem in head??
Kevin,
If one
of your rockers came loose, I think you'd have more of a problem than just not
being able to rev past 6k rpm, and rough running. I've seen first hand the
effect of having an HLA (hydraulic lash adjuster) go flat, and usually if one
rocker goes, it would have cause a metallic symphony of parts seizing. Possible
side effects of said symphony could be cracked/bent valves, cracked retainers,
thrown springs, etc. Probably about a $2000 repair at my local (albeit
incompetent) dealership.
I would cease and desist in starting your car at
this point. Pull the valve cover and inspect the damage. With the manual, you
should be able to pull and service your lifters fairly easily, and at the least
determine if this task is over your head.
Good luck, and be sure to post
pictures somewhere if you can!
Regards,
Dan Jett
San Jose,
Ca
94 Stealth TT, slightly modded
>>> "Kevin Umbreit" <
unclesam099@hotmail.com> - 5/22/01
3:29 AM >>>
No, not me, i'm not insane :)
It was brought to my
attention that the problem that i'm having with my car
may be a rocker arm
that came off and is somewhere in the head. A post on
the starnet list
was forwarded to me and it describes very similar (if not
identical)
symptoms causing the same problems: won't rev past 6k rpms,
hesitation, and rough idle. if a copy of the starnet post is needed, i
could send that if you might need more info.
My question is, could I,
a DIY mechanic who knows what he's talking about,
do it myself? what
would be involved in putting a rocker arm back in place
(if it's not messed
up too bad)? thanks for your help and just tell me if
you would like
to see the email of the starnet list.
- --Kevin Umbreit
'91 R/T non
turbo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:00:33
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: 1992 Dodge Stealth RT for Sale in New England
Hi everyone, I
bought my Twin Turbo and now I can't afford to keep my RT/NA.
I've
babied this car and while I had my license revoked away I've had plenty
of
time to make this car perfect. The only thing it needs is a new catalytic
converter if you live in an emmission-controlled state. It passed emmsions
and inspection with flying colors a few months ago and it probably will now
even with a bad cat. I love this car but my insurance is so high that
I
can't afford to hold on to her. Anyone interested in the car please
reply
privately to
DiabloCarAudio@aol.com3Si
Classified Ad:
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=194310On
a lighter note, I get my license back in 2 weeks and I'll be expecting to
have many things go wrong with my new car so everyone better be sitting at
their computers to help me for my first couple weeks. =)
-
-Paul
1992 Pearl White RT/NA
For Sale..
=(
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1943101992
Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1000CA
800CCA Battery
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors & R-4S
Pads
Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust to Apex
Muffler
15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
3Si1127
Diablo
Car Audio
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:54:03
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re-Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly...
So I got the clutch release
cylinder in, only to find that there is also a
pin-hole leak in the flexible
line that connects the whole thing together.
It took a keen eye to notice the
15 foot stream of hydraulic fluid arcing
across the sky and landing in the
planter at the edge of the garage.
Luckily I had the fender covered with rags
to avoid any unintentional paint
removal.
My question, however,
relates to the re-assembly of all the crap I had to
take out of the car to
replace a part that fits snugly in the palm of your
hand.
I noticed
that the pressure hoses feeding the turbos/intercoolers/throttle
body all fit
quite firmly and were a bitch to separate. If I have problems
fitting
them back together (which I'm fully expecting) is it okay to put a
*very
light* coating of oil or other lubricant on the mating surfaces to
facilitate
an easier assembly?
Thanks,
Scott Holthausen
- -94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:19:12
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re-Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly...
WD-40 works for
an assembly lube and will also evaporate leaving a very
'stuck'
hose. If you use any other grease, you chance blowing hoses off
on
a regular basis. Not to mention, some oils cause decay of rubber
parts.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Volthause
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 9:54 AM
To:
3000GT
Subject: Team3S: Re-Assembly is the reverse of
dis-assembly...
So I got the clutch release cylinder in, only to find
that there is also a
pin-hole leak in the flexible line that connects the
whole thing together.
It took a keen eye to notice the 15 foot stream of
hydraulic fluid arcing
across the sky and landing in the planter at the edge
of the garage.
Luckily I had the fender covered with rags to avoid any
unintentional paint
removal.
My question, however, relates to the
re-assembly of all the crap I had to
take out of the car to replace a part
that fits snugly in the palm of your
hand.
I noticed that the pressure
hoses feeding the turbos/intercoolers/throttle
body all fit quite firmly and
were a bitch to separate. If I have problems
fitting them back together
(which I'm fully expecting) is it okay to put a
*very light* coating of oil
or other lubricant on the mating surfaces to
facilitate an easier
assembly?
Thanks,
Scott Holthausen
- -94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 11:20:09
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SS Brake lines
I was wondering if there is any word on the SS
brake lines from Porterfield?
Have they been
shipped?
Thanks,
Michael D. Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 08:34:49
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Ball Joint Nut Tightening
Ken:
This is a common problem. You need
an air rachet to tighten the nut. There
is no other solution I know
of.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 08:43:33
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Trouble
Actually in a lot of cases the battery should have that
effect. It's a great
way to disable a car. Hook up a marine battery and
everything electric goes
*boom* This method is used frequently to break in to
a car where I'm from.
Not that I would do this but I've seen what's left
afterwards.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave
Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart_kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 21, 2001 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trouble
>
> ... is it the choice in the battery or a fuse...
>
> The
battery type shouldn't be an effect on the car's electronics
like
that.
> I'm using a 1000CA 800CCA Marine battery and I have no
problems. The only
> thing I can think of it that it's a coincidence
that your bulb is blinking
> and/or that you may have blown a fuse for the
other things. I don't think
> that it's the computer because it
would have been reset when you
disconnected
> the battery. Good
luck, tell us what you find.
> -Paul
> 1992 Pearl White
RT/NA
> For Sale.. =(
> 1992 Green
RT/TT
> K&N
FIPK
> Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors &
Pads
> Denso Platinum Spark Plugs Re-gapped @
.034"
> Greddy Profec Manual Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
> 15K miles on Rebuilt Engine
>
3Si1127
> Diablo Car Audio
>
www.DiabloCarAudio.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:52:19
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re-Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly...
> fitting them
back together (which I'm fully expecting) is it okay to put a
> *very
light* coating of oil or other lubricant on the mating surfaces to
>
facilitate an easier assembly?
I have used a *very* slight coating of
engine oil in the past when
re-fitting
stubborn vaccum hoses. This helped
tremendously. WD-40 works well too.
I haven't had trouble with the hoses
blowing off or anything after
applying the
lube. Just don't slather the
stuff on there.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:07:19
-0400
From: Michael Salter <
magicare@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ball Joint Nut Tightening
The other trick is to put 2 or 3
washers on before the nut then tighten
the nut to lock the shaft into the
taper. Then remove the nut and
washers and tighten normally ;-)
-
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 09:28:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SS Brake lines
They should have been, many orders are in and
I havent heard about any
delays.
Where do you live? UPS ground
can be sloooooow sometimes.
On Tue, 22 May 2001, Michael D. Crose
wrote:
> I was wondering if there is any word on the SS brake lines
from Porterfield?
> Have they been shipped?
>
>
Thanks,
> Michael D. Crose
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 09:51:21
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Loose steering question
Could be almost any part in the
suspension system. Look at the adjustment on
the steering box, Pitman arm,
idler arm, control arms, and bushings. That
much play is dangerous. If
nothing else your tires will probably
wear
unevenly.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#499
*********************