team3s              Friday, May 18 2001              Volume 01 : Number 496




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Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 19:33:24 EDT
From: ViPeR41879@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Please Respond: Need Advice?!?

Do any of you guys have any knowledge of how to obtain about a 1" polished lip on Racing Hart C5s (what offset)? I'm wanting 18x8.5 wheels, but with the normal setting there isn't very much of a polished lip.  I have been told that you can specify this and get more lip by just changing the offset (not sure about this).  My stock offset is 46mm.  Could someone either correct me or elaborate......

Thanks,
Nathan
94 SL       

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 21:13:08 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please Respond: Need Advice?!?

Offset has to do with where the mount plane intersects the wheel, it would only be coincidence to the lip size.

Contact Daxx Motorsports for Hart wheel info 626-962-0033

Kurt 

- -----Original Message-----
From: ViPeR41879@aol.com [mailto:ViPeR41879@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 4:33 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Please Respond: Need Advice?!?

Do any of you guys have any knowledge of how to obtain about a 1" polished lip on Racing Hart C5s (what offset)? I'm wanting 18x8.5 wheels, but with the normal setting there isn't very much of a polished lip.  I have been told that you can specify this and get more lip by just changing the offset (not sure about this).  My stock offset is 46mm.  Could someone either correct me or elaborate......

Thanks,
Nathan
94 SL       

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 23:10:28 -0400
From: "Infernalist" <baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Question

I have recently noticed my clutch slips a bit when under full boost, seems
to take a second to grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid resovoir (and
hope im just low on fluid), however, I consulted the manual (the on that
came with the car) and I cannot seem to find the resovoir where the manual
says it is. it says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help please :)
Thanx in advance!!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 22:45:43 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Question

> I have recently noticed my clutch slips a bit
> when under full boost, seems to take a second
> to grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid
> resovoir (and hope im just low on fluid),
> however, I consulted the manual (the on that
> came with the car) and I cannot seem to find
> the resovoir where the manual says it is. it
> says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help
> please :)

Clutch fluid is near the brake fluid - on the driver's side of the car
against the firewall.  White caps on both, the clutch fluid reservoir is the
smaller of the two.

Unfortunately, low clutch fluid won't cause a slipping clutch (it would
cause a non-disengaging clutch), so start saving for a replacement clutch.
:-(

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 01:17:53 EDT
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Mods and good news for '95 + owners

Good News about springs for '95+ cars, bad news about my car.

First, I've spent the past 5 days working on my '97 VR-4.  Here's what I've
done:

1. Installed HKS Dual Mega Flow Intake
2. Installed Blitz DSBC
3. Re-wired Greddy Electric Boost Gauge
4. Gutted pre-cats
5. Gasket matched upper and lower intake manifold
6. Ported/Polished intake manifold/runners
7. Gasket matched intake and exhaust header
8. Mild port on head - intake/exhaust runners, short-turn radius on intake,
minor bowl work
9. Mirror polished combustion chambers
10. Cleaned up tops of pistons
11. Turned and re-installed a pair of warped "brembo" rotors
12. Installed new Hawk Blue pads
13. Installed Denso Iridium plugs
14. Installed H&R springs
15. Detailed top to bottom including 3 coats of wax

After 5 days of living in the garage, I finally took a shower ( do they make
a soap that removes pre-cat material from your hair? ),  got dressed up, and
set out to cruise my beautiful baby, and enjoy the fruits of my labor. 
BLAM!!!!!  Two stop lights from my house a lady rear-ended me doing about 20
mph.  I'm fine, my car is not.  Looks like a new rear bumper and some other
work.  ARRRRGG!!!

Well, the reason I wrote this was not to bitch and moan about my injured car,
but to bring some good news to the group about springs for '95+ cars with the
dreaded power sunroof issue.  I have successfully installed H&R springs on my
'97 w/ pwr sunroof, and they fit just fine (kind of).  After a lot of trial
and error, and some false starts, I happened on H&R springs through
Carparts.com that are listed as fitting the '96 VR-4.  Well, the rear springs
are wider then the stock springs, and they are not a great fit, but they do
fit.  We had to remove the stock rubber spacer that goes over the end of the
stock spring (it won't fit the new H&R's), and replace it with a generic
polyurethane spacer, but it works just fine - any performance shop that does
suspension work will have these polyurethane pieces.    I got a 3/4-inch drop
both front and back, from about 27 3/4 inches (measured from the ground to
the lip of the wheel well) to about 26 3/4 - 27 inches.  Not the radical
slammed to the ground look, but definitely enough to notice, and feel.  The
springs are definitely much stiffer, but here's the good part: They don't
feel much stiffer during normal driving.  Only when you start pushing them do
you feel a big difference.  To my utter shock, I discovered that the stock
springs are NOT progressively wound (at least on the '97's), the H&R's are! 
This means that you get a decent ride during normal driving, but still have
great performance when you drive hard.  For my taste I would have liked the
H&R's slightly stiffer, but I still have stock shocks (which are definitely
under matched for the H&R's) , so as soon as my GAB's ever arrive, I'm sure
I'll be able to dial in the feel I like.  All in all, I think the H&R's are a
great buy for the driver that doesn't want their car scraping when they go
over a pebble, but would like some drop, with a noticeably stiffer spring. 
Plus the fact that you can order these through Carparts.com for $180 (all 4)
if you use the 30% discount (does that still exist?).  Not bad when you
consider the cost and added complexity of Ground Control coil-overs, plus the
lack of progressive springs available for the GC's. 

With the new springs, the 'sudden' understeer (plowing straight ahead) that I
used to experience is completely gone, there is still slight understeer, but
it is gradual, and I was easily able to convert it into perfect 4 wheel
drifts, with transitions into very controlled oversteer using the throttle
AND steering wheel.  Transitioning in 'S' turns is now smooth and crisp,
however, the chassis flex is now very pronounced, or at least I notice it a
lot more.   Hopefully a Cusco strut bar can cure some of this.  Over-all,
even with the stock shocks, the handling has gone from just OK to Great!

Just a note: I was not able to get the camber on the rears fully within spec,
they were 0.3 degrees negative off spec, not good, but I can live with that -
accelerated tire wear, but better grip .  From what I understand this is
common to all drop springs for the VR-4, and can be corrected with some minor
adjustments.

A note on the other mods I made: I installed the Blitz DSBC and then took my
car for a ride, it REALLY moves!  In 4th gear holding 1.05 kg/cm2 (14.93 psi)
the car pulls hard!!!  I next gutted the pre-cats and did a few butt-dyno
runs, the turbos definitely spin up faster, and power comes on earlier, but
I'm not sure if this really added to peak HP.  BTW - I have a '97 California
car - so far so good, no "check engine" light.  I then did all the porting
and polishing work (about 3 very long days total), this changed the engine
noticeably.  It really pulled harder and spun faster at the top end (5200 -
7000 rpm), I accidentally hit the rev limiter 4 times while enjoying the
added ponies from this mod.  This is a great mod, that is very cheap if you
do it yourself ( I spent about $30 on cartridge rolls and a worn out carbide
bit, + the cost of the gaskets).  Does anyone know why the redline on our
cars is 7K?  Valve train issues or bottom end?  In my opinion, spinning our
cars to about 7800 rpm would take a few tenths off of the 1/4 mile.  A word
of warning; pulling the heads off these cars is not like pulling the heads
off a Chevy 350.  I spent about 14 back-breaking hours just to remove/replace
them.  I'm slow, and not that mechanically inclined so I'm sure others can do
it faster, but it's still at least 10 hours of work.  Big thanks to Alex P.
for all the help!

Final analysis: All the mods were DEFINITELY worth the work, my car went from
a great, fun, fast car, to a fire breathing beast, that can humiliate almost
any other car on the road.  Next up is injectors, fuel management, and Big
Red brakes - maybe even some 100 octane racing fuel to put the Viper next
door in its place.  The only down side to the whole thing is that my vision,
hearing, sense of smell, and taste have all been reduce by about 50% as the
corresponding sensors have been plugged with pre-cat material.

If there are is anybody in the SF Bay Area that is considering some of the
mods I've done, but is still a little unsure of their mechanical ability, let
me know, I'd be glad to drop by and help out, and share some of my newly
gained experience.  Also, let me know if you want more info on the springs
and a good reference to a shop that can install them for you cheap!

End of Book

Cyrus

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 06:45:00 -0400
From: Steve Petry <sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Steering wheel play

How much play should a 3000GT VR4 have in the steering wheel, I have about 1
to 1.5 inches of play , the wheel feels lose, is that normal?
Could the power steering need adjustments?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 07:25:02 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch Question

The clutch reservoir on my Stealth TT is in the extreme left hand [ drivers side ]
corner of the engine compartment at the firewall --- it's overshadowed by the
brake reservoir. The cap just pulls off, it does not screw on.
It's also unlikely that that is the problem --- low fluid level should result in the
clutch not releasing properly and causing difficult gear changes.
The item the manual is referring to is probably the slave cylinder which is down
by the windshield washer bottle

        Jim Berry
======================================================.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Infernalist <baali@wwnet.net>

> I have recently noticed my clutch slips a bit when under full boost, seems
> to take a second to grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid resovoir (and
> hope im just low on fluid), however, I consulted the manual (the on that
> came with the car) and I cannot seem to find the resovoir where the manual
> says it is. it says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help please :)
> Thanx in advance!!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:44:31 -0400
From: Steve Petry <sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Question

This sounds like the clutch is going and I do not think clutch fluid will
fix it. I had the same problem a few months ago, and I noticed it would slip
in 5th under boost, then it started to slip in 4th under boost, at that
point, I knew I needed a new clutch.  Just drive it smoothly without boost,
and the clutch will last a couple weeks longer.  I would start getting
prices on a new one now.

- -Steve
'91 3000 GTO VR4
'91 944 S2
'84 944 Lux

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Infernalist
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 11:10 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Question

I have recently noticed my clutch slips a bit when under full boost, seems
to take a second to grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid resovoir (and
hope im just low on fluid), however, I consulted the manual (the on that
came with the car) and I cannot seem to find the resovoir where the manual
says it is. it says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help please :)
Thanx in advance!!
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 11:43:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Question

Your clutch is going, no doubt about it!

Mine went the exact same way, slipped it 5th first.  Then it went away for
a couple months, but when it came back then it slipped in 4th, then 3rd.
etc.

If you are going to do the job yourself, make sure you pre-order the
special tools (steering linkage puller, ball joint and tie rod-end boot
installers, etc) in advance.  I had my car half torn apart, then ordered
the tools, which were backordered for two weeks!   I can dig up the number
for Miller Special Tools or SPX Corp if you need it.  They do sell to the
general public.

Actually, if you live in a climate where they salt the roads, this will
also be a good opportunity to do some light rust removal in various places
while you have everything torn apart.  I removed the rust and repainted
the clutch vacuum reservoir and all the frame crossmembers while I was
under there.


On Fri, 18 May 2001, Steve Petry wrote:

> This sounds like the clutch is going and I do not think clutch fluid will
> fix it. I had the same problem a few months ago, and I noticed it would slip
> in 5th under boost, then it started to slip in 4th under boost, at that
> point, I knew I needed a new clutch.  Just drive it smoothly without boost,
> and the clutch will last a couple weeks longer.  I would start getting
> prices on a new one now.
>
> -Steve
> '91 3000 GTO VR4
> '91 944 S2
> '84 944 Lux
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Infernalist
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 11:10 PM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Clutch Question
>
> I have recently noticed my clutch slips a bit when under full boost, seems
> to take a second to grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid resovoir (and
> hope im just low on fluid), however, I consulted the manual (the on that
> came with the car) and I cannot seem to find the resovoir where the manual
> says it is. it says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help please :)
> Thanx in advance!!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:04:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Question

The special tools listed below are NOT necessary to pull the
transaxle and change the clutch. The ball joint does NOT have to be
taken apart. You can take the ball joint apart if you want to follow
the service manual instructions exactly, but it is not required. For
those that want to tackle a clutch replacement yourself, Ken Wheeler
and I have some step-by-step instructions at my web page below.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-trany.htm

The only "special" tools we used were a trany jack and a clutch
alignment tool. Air tools are very handy also.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Margrave" <davidma@eskimo.com>
To: "Steve Petry" <sjpsys@rit.edu>
Cc: "Infernalist" <baali@wwnet.net>; <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Question

<snip>
If you are going to do the job yourself, make sure you pre-order the
special tools (steering linkage puller, ball joint and tie rod-end
boot installers, etc) in advance.  I had my car half torn apart, then
ordered the tools, which were backordered for two weeks!   I can dig
up the number for Miller Special Tools or SPX Corp if you need it.
They do sell to the general public.
<snip>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 13:36:55 -0700
From: Jim Elferdink <macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Team3S: Leaky injectors

I just talked to RC Engineering after sending them my stock injectors. they
said four of them have external leaks between the plastic and the metal
parts, something that cannot be repaired. Have any of you run into this
problem? I never noticed any leaks or gasoline smell on the engine.

I'm doing my 60 K service, so I thought I'd send the injectors in for
cleaning. Now it looks like I'll be cleaning out my billfold to buy new
ones!

Does anyone have any stock (360) injectors kicking around after upgrading?
I'm about to call to see what the new ones cost. One way or another, I've
got to be at Portland International Raceway on June 1...

Many thanks!

Jim Elferdink

1994 VR-4


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 14:24:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Question

interesting.  well I suppose it would have been nice to have avoided all
that!

By the way, does anyone know why the ball joint and other parts with
grease boots have no grease fittings?  It seems overly optimistic to me to
have a ball joint or tie rod-end greased for life!


On Fri, 18 May 2001, Jeff Lucius wrote:

> The special tools listed below are NOT necessary to pull the
> transaxle and change the clutch. The ball joint does NOT have to be
> taken apart. You can take the ball joint apart if you want to follow
> the service manual instructions exactly, but it is not required. For
> those that want to tackle a clutch replacement yourself, Ken Wheeler
> and I have some step-by-step instructions at my web page below.
>
> http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-trany.htm
>
> The only "special" tools we used were a trany jack and a clutch
> alignment tool. Air tools are very handy also.
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Margrave" <davidma@eskimo.com>
> To: "Steve Petry" <sjpsys@rit.edu>
> Cc: "Infernalist" <baali@wwnet.net>; <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 12:43 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Question
>
> <snip>
> If you are going to do the job yourself, make sure you pre-order the
> special tools (steering linkage puller, ball joint and tie rod-end
> boot installers, etc) in advance.  I had my car half torn apart, then
> ordered the tools, which were backordered for two weeks!   I can dig
> up the number for Miller Special Tools or SPX Corp if you need it.
> They do sell to the general public.
> <snip>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 18:39:15 -0400
From: "Infernalist" <baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Questions 2

Thanx all for the response!! this list is an awesome tool, and I really
appreciate all the aid, I plan to do the clutch, (thanx to the detailed
instructions from Jeff and Ken) Now I have one more question for the gurus
out there. What clutch is recommended? My car is mainly stock now, but I
plan on getting a boost controller, some exhause etc this summer, so I will
want something that is streetable, but sturdy. Thanks again in advance!!!

Ron Zilinsky
92 RT/TT
K&N FIPK
Can't wait to add more to this list :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 19:29:26 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Questions 2

> Now I have one more question for the gurus
> out there. What clutch is recommended? My
> car is mainly stock now, but I plan on
> getting a boost controller, some exhause
> etc this summer, so I will want something
> that is streetable, but sturdy.

If you aren't into tranny-breaking launches and you aren't going to be drag
racing much then I'd say go with another stock clutch.  They last pretty
long and grip good for mild to moderately upgraded cars.

If you feel that you might take the car to more horsepower than just boost
controller and exhaust then maybe consider an ACT clutch.  I've got one in
my car and it is working really well.  Some people also like Centerforce.
RPS is "iffy" with quality control issues - unless you enjoy spending more
money to install replacement clutches I'd avoid those.  Some people get
lucky, some people don't.  There's lots of information and opinions in the
list archives about clutches.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #496
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