team3s
Friday, May 18
2001
Volume 01 : Number
496
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 17 May 2001 19:33:24 EDT
From:
ViPeR41879@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Please Respond: Need Advice?!?
Do any of you guys have any knowledge of
how to obtain about a 1" polished lip on Racing Hart C5s (what offset)? I'm
wanting 18x8.5 wheels, but with the normal setting there isn't very much of a
polished lip. I have been told that you can specify this and get more lip
by just changing the offset (not sure about this). My stock offset is
46mm. Could someone either correct me or
elaborate......
Thanks,
Nathan
94
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 21:13:08
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Please Respond: Need Advice?!?
Offset has to do with where the
mount plane intersects the wheel, it would only be coincidence to the lip size.
Contact Daxx Motorsports for Hart wheel info 626-962-0033
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
ViPeR41879@aol.com
[mailto:ViPeR41879@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 4:33 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Please Respond: Need Advice?!?
Do any of you guys have any
knowledge of how to obtain about a 1" polished lip on Racing Hart C5s (what
offset)? I'm wanting 18x8.5 wheels, but with the normal setting there isn't very
much of a polished lip. I have been told that you can specify this and get
more lip by just changing the offset (not sure about this). My stock
offset is 46mm. Could someone either correct me or
elaborate......
Thanks,
Nathan
94
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 23:10:28
-0400
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
Question
I have recently noticed my clutch slips a bit when under full
boost, seems
to take a second to grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid
resovoir (and
hope im just low on fluid), however, I consulted the manual
(the on that
came with the car) and I cannot seem to find the resovoir where
the manual
says it is. it says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help
please :)
Thanx in advance!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 22:45:43
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Question
> I have recently noticed my clutch slips
a bit
> when under full boost, seems to take a second
> to grab. I
understand there is a clutch fluid
> resovoir (and hope im just low on
fluid),
> however, I consulted the manual (the on that
> came with
the car) and I cannot seem to find
> the resovoir where the manual says it
is. it
> says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help
> please
:)
Clutch fluid is near the brake fluid - on the driver's side of the
car
against the firewall. White caps on both, the clutch fluid
reservoir is the
smaller of the two.
Unfortunately, low clutch fluid
won't cause a slipping clutch (it would
cause a non-disengaging clutch), so
start saving for a replacement clutch.
:-(
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 01:17:53
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Mods and good news for '95 + owners
Good News about springs for
'95+ cars, bad news about my car.
First, I've spent the past 5 days
working on my '97 VR-4. Here's what I've
done:
1. Installed HKS
Dual Mega Flow Intake
2. Installed Blitz DSBC
3. Re-wired Greddy Electric
Boost Gauge
4. Gutted pre-cats
5. Gasket matched upper and lower intake
manifold
6. Ported/Polished intake manifold/runners
7. Gasket matched
intake and exhaust header
8. Mild port on head - intake/exhaust runners,
short-turn radius on intake,
minor bowl work
9. Mirror polished
combustion chambers
10. Cleaned up tops of pistons
11. Turned and
re-installed a pair of warped "brembo" rotors
12. Installed new Hawk Blue
pads
13. Installed Denso Iridium plugs
14. Installed H&R
springs
15. Detailed top to bottom including 3 coats of wax
After 5
days of living in the garage, I finally took a shower ( do they make
a soap
that removes pre-cat material from your hair? ), got dressed up, and
set out to cruise my beautiful baby, and enjoy the fruits of my labor.
BLAM!!!!! Two stop lights from my house a lady rear-ended me doing
about 20
mph. I'm fine, my car is not. Looks like a new rear
bumper and some other
work. ARRRRGG!!!
Well, the reason I wrote
this was not to bitch and moan about my injured car,
but to bring some good
news to the group about springs for '95+ cars with the
dreaded power sunroof
issue. I have successfully installed H&R springs on my
'97 w/ pwr
sunroof, and they fit just fine (kind of). After a lot of trial
and
error, and some false starts, I happened on H&R springs through
Carparts.com that are listed as fitting the '96 VR-4. Well, the rear
springs
are wider then the stock springs, and they are not a great fit, but
they do
fit. We had to remove the stock rubber spacer that goes over
the end of the
stock spring (it won't fit the new H&R's), and replace it
with a generic
polyurethane spacer, but it works just fine - any performance
shop that does
suspension work will have these polyurethane
pieces. I got a 3/4-inch drop
both front and back, from
about 27 3/4 inches (measured from the ground to
the lip of the wheel well)
to about 26 3/4 - 27 inches. Not the radical
slammed to the ground
look, but definitely enough to notice, and feel. The
springs are
definitely much stiffer, but here's the good part: They don't
feel much
stiffer during normal driving. Only when you start pushing them do
you
feel a big difference. To my utter shock, I discovered that the stock
springs are NOT progressively wound (at least on the '97's), the H&R's
are!
This means that you get a decent ride during normal driving, but
still have
great performance when you drive hard. For my taste I would
have liked the
H&R's slightly stiffer, but I still have stock shocks
(which are definitely
under matched for the H&R's) , so as soon as my
GAB's ever arrive, I'm sure
I'll be able to dial in the feel I like.
All in all, I think the H&R's are a
great buy for the driver that
doesn't want their car scraping when they go
over a pebble, but would like
some drop, with a noticeably stiffer spring.
Plus the fact that you
can order these through Carparts.com for $180 (all 4)
if you use the 30%
discount (does that still exist?). Not bad when you
consider the cost
and added complexity of Ground Control coil-overs, plus the
lack of
progressive springs available for the GC's.
With the new springs,
the 'sudden' understeer (plowing straight ahead) that I
used to experience
is completely gone, there is still slight understeer, but
it is gradual, and
I was easily able to convert it into perfect 4 wheel
drifts, with
transitions into very controlled oversteer using the throttle
AND steering
wheel. Transitioning in 'S' turns is now smooth and crisp,
however,
the chassis flex is now very pronounced, or at least I notice it a
lot
more. Hopefully a Cusco strut bar can cure some of this.
Over-all,
even with the stock shocks, the handling has gone from just OK to
Great!
Just a note: I was not able to get the camber on the rears fully
within spec,
they were 0.3 degrees negative off spec, not good, but I can
live with that -
accelerated tire wear, but better grip . From what I
understand this is
common to all drop springs for the VR-4, and can be
corrected with some minor
adjustments.
A note on the other mods I
made: I installed the Blitz DSBC and then took my
car for a ride, it REALLY
moves! In 4th gear holding 1.05 kg/cm2 (14.93 psi)
the car pulls
hard!!! I next gutted the pre-cats and did a few butt-dyno
runs, the
turbos definitely spin up faster, and power comes on earlier, but
I'm not
sure if this really added to peak HP. BTW - I have a '97 California
car - so far so good, no "check engine" light. I then did all the
porting
and polishing work (about 3 very long days total), this changed the
engine
noticeably. It really pulled harder and spun faster at the top
end (5200 -
7000 rpm), I accidentally hit the rev limiter 4 times while
enjoying the
added ponies from this mod. This is a great mod, that is
very cheap if you
do it yourself ( I spent about $30 on cartridge rolls and
a worn out carbide
bit, + the cost of the gaskets). Does anyone know
why the redline on our
cars is 7K? Valve train issues or bottom
end? In my opinion, spinning our
cars to about 7800 rpm would take a
few tenths off of the 1/4 mile. A word
of warning; pulling the heads
off these cars is not like pulling the heads
off a Chevy 350. I spent
about 14 back-breaking hours just to remove/replace
them. I'm slow,
and not that mechanically inclined so I'm sure others can do
it faster, but
it's still at least 10 hours of work. Big thanks to Alex P.
for all
the help!
Final analysis: All the mods were DEFINITELY worth the work, my
car went from
a great, fun, fast car, to a fire breathing beast, that can
humiliate almost
any other car on the road. Next up is injectors, fuel
management, and Big
Red brakes - maybe even some 100 octane racing fuel to
put the Viper next
door in its place. The only down side to the whole
thing is that my vision,
hearing, sense of smell, and taste have all been
reduce by about 50% as the
corresponding sensors have been plugged with
pre-cat material.
If there are is anybody in the SF Bay Area that is
considering some of the
mods I've done, but is still a little unsure of
their mechanical ability, let
me know, I'd be glad to drop by and help out,
and share some of my newly
gained experience. Also, let me know if you
want more info on the springs
and a good reference to a shop that can
install them for you cheap!
End of Book
Cyrus
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 06:45:00
-0400
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Steering
wheel play
How much play should a 3000GT VR4 have in the steering wheel,
I have about 1
to 1.5 inches of play , the wheel feels lose, is that
normal?
Could the power steering need adjustments?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 07:25:02
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch Question
The clutch reservoir on my Stealth TT is in the extreme
left hand [ drivers side ]
corner of the engine compartment at the firewall
--- it's overshadowed by the
brake reservoir. The cap just pulls off, it does
not screw on.
It's also unlikely that that is the problem --- low fluid level
should result in the
clutch not releasing properly and causing difficult
gear changes.
The item the manual is referring to is probably the slave
cylinder which is down
by the windshield washer
bottle
Jim
Berry
======================================================.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Infernalist <
baali@wwnet.net>
> I have
recently noticed my clutch slips a bit when under full boost, seems
> to
take a second to grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid resovoir
(and
> hope im just low on fluid), however, I consulted the manual (the on
that
> came with the car) and I cannot seem to find the resovoir where the
manual
> says it is. it says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help
please :)
> Thanx in advance!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:44:31
-0400
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Clutch Question
This sounds like the clutch is going and I do not think
clutch fluid will
fix it. I had the same problem a few months ago, and I
noticed it would slip
in 5th under boost, then it started to slip in 4th
under boost, at that
point, I knew I needed a new clutch. Just drive it
smoothly without boost,
and the clutch will last a couple weeks longer.
I would start getting
prices on a new one now.
- -Steve
'91 3000
GTO VR4
'91 944 S2
'84 944 Lux
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Infernalist
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 11:10 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Clutch Question
I have recently noticed my clutch slips a bit
when under full boost, seems
to take a second to grab. I understand there is
a clutch fluid resovoir (and
hope im just low on fluid), however, I consulted
the manual (the on that
came with the car) and I cannot seem to find the
resovoir where the manual
says it is. it says near the washer solvent fill
bottle? Help please :)
Thanx in advance!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 11:43:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Question
Your clutch is going, no doubt about
it!
Mine went the exact same way, slipped it 5th first. Then it
went away for
a couple months, but when it came back then it slipped in 4th,
then 3rd.
etc.
If you are going to do the job yourself, make sure you
pre-order the
special tools (steering linkage puller, ball joint and tie
rod-end boot
installers, etc) in advance. I had my car half torn apart,
then ordered
the tools, which were backordered for two weeks! I
can dig up the number
for Miller Special Tools or SPX Corp if you need
it. They do sell to the
general public.
Actually, if you live in
a climate where they salt the roads, this will
also be a good opportunity to
do some light rust removal in various places
while you have everything torn
apart. I removed the rust and repainted
the clutch vacuum reservoir and
all the frame crossmembers while I was
under there.
On Fri, 18 May
2001, Steve Petry wrote:
> This sounds like the clutch is going and I
do not think clutch fluid will
> fix it. I had the same problem a few
months ago, and I noticed it would slip
> in 5th under boost, then it
started to slip in 4th under boost, at that
> point, I knew I needed a new
clutch. Just drive it smoothly without boost,
> and the clutch will
last a couple weeks longer. I would start getting
> prices on a new
one now.
>
> -Steve
> '91 3000 GTO VR4
> '91 944
S2
> '84 944 Lux
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Infernalist
> Sent:
Thursday, May 17, 2001 11:10 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Question
>
> I have recently noticed my
clutch slips a bit when under full boost, seems
> to take a second to
grab. I understand there is a clutch fluid resovoir (and
> hope im just
low on fluid), however, I consulted the manual (the on that
> came with
the car) and I cannot seem to find the resovoir where the manual
> says it
is. it says near the washer solvent fill bottle? Help please :)
> Thanx in
advance!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:04:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Question
The special tools listed below are NOT
necessary to pull the
transaxle and change the clutch. The ball joint does
NOT have to be
taken apart. You can take the ball joint apart if you want to
follow
the service manual instructions exactly, but it is not required.
For
those that want to tackle a clutch replacement yourself, Ken
Wheeler
and I have some step-by-step instructions at my web page below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-trany.htmThe
only "special" tools we used were a trany jack and a clutch
alignment tool.
Air tools are very handy also.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "David Margrave" <
davidma@eskimo.com>
To: "Steve Petry"
<
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Cc: "Infernalist"
<
baali@wwnet.net>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 18, 2001 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
Question
<snip>
If you are going to do the job yourself, make
sure you pre-order the
special tools (steering linkage puller, ball joint and
tie rod-end
boot installers, etc) in advance. I had my car half torn
apart, then
ordered the tools, which were backordered for two
weeks! I can dig
up the number for Miller Special Tools or SPX
Corp if you need it.
They do sell to the general
public.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 13:36:55
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Leaky injectors
I just talked to RC Engineering after sending
them my stock injectors. they
said four of them have external leaks between
the plastic and the metal
parts, something that cannot be repaired. Have any
of you run into this
problem? I never noticed any leaks or gasoline smell on
the engine.
I'm doing my 60 K service, so I thought I'd send the
injectors in for
cleaning. Now it looks like I'll be cleaning out my billfold
to buy new
ones!
Does anyone have any stock (360) injectors kicking
around after upgrading?
I'm about to call to see what the new ones cost. One
way or another, I've
got to be at Portland International Raceway on June
1...
Many thanks!
Jim Elferdink
1994
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 14:24:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Question
interesting. well I suppose it would have
been nice to have avoided all
that!
By the way, does anyone know why
the ball joint and other parts with
grease boots have no grease
fittings? It seems overly optimistic to me to
have a ball joint or tie
rod-end greased for life!
On Fri, 18 May 2001, Jeff Lucius
wrote:
> The special tools listed below are NOT necessary to pull
the
> transaxle and change the clutch. The ball joint does NOT have to
be
> taken apart. You can take the ball joint apart if you want to
follow
> the service manual instructions exactly, but it is not required.
For
> those that want to tackle a clutch replacement yourself, Ken
Wheeler
> and I have some step-by-step instructions at my web page below.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-trany.htm>
> The only "special" tools we used were a trany jack and a clutch
>
alignment tool. Air tools are very handy also.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "David Margrave" <
davidma@eskimo.com>
> To: "Steve
Petry" <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
> Cc:
"Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 12:43 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
Question
>
> <snip>
> If you are going to do the job
yourself, make sure you pre-order the
> special tools (steering linkage
puller, ball joint and tie rod-end
> boot installers, etc) in
advance. I had my car half torn apart, then
> ordered the tools,
which were backordered for two weeks! I can dig
> up the
number for Miller Special Tools or SPX Corp if you need it.
> They do
sell to the general public.
> <snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 18:39:15
-0400
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
Questions 2
Thanx all for the response!! this list is an awesome tool,
and I really
appreciate all the aid, I plan to do the clutch, (thanx to the
detailed
instructions from Jeff and Ken) Now I have one more question for the
gurus
out there. What clutch is recommended? My car is mainly stock now, but
I
plan on getting a boost controller, some exhause etc this summer, so I
will
want something that is streetable, but sturdy. Thanks again in
advance!!!
Ron Zilinsky
92 RT/TT
K&N FIPK
Can't wait to add
more to this list :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 19:29:26
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Questions 2
> Now I have one more question for the
gurus
> out there. What clutch is recommended? My
> car is mainly
stock now, but I plan on
> getting a boost controller, some
exhause
> etc this summer, so I will want something
> that is
streetable, but sturdy.
If you aren't into tranny-breaking launches and
you aren't going to be drag
racing much then I'd say go with another stock
clutch. They last pretty
long and grip good for mild to moderately
upgraded cars.
If you feel that you might take the car to more horsepower
than just boost
controller and exhaust then maybe consider an ACT
clutch. I've got one in
my car and it is working really well.
Some people also like Centerforce.
RPS is "iffy" with quality control issues
- unless you enjoy spending more
money to install replacement clutches I'd
avoid those. Some people get
lucky, some people don't. There's
lots of information and opinions in the
list archives about
clutches.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#496
*********************