team3s
Tuesday, May 15
2001
Volume 01 : Number
493
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 14 May 2001 14:00:27 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Moving batteries--shocking news
Note also that some of those
at the East Coast Gathering also had external
battery emergency cutoff
switches (as seen on race cars) in case the car is
flipped over or
wrecked. I can send a picture of one of them.
Moving the battery is
more than unmount and bolt back down. Good cautions
all around.
Be careful out there and great emails so far.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 6:07 PM
To:
WALTER D. BEST;
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu; Dave Monarchi;
Team3S;
Stealth Net
Subject: Team3S: Moving batteries--shocking
news
At 05:45 PM 5/11/01 -0400, WALTER D. BEST wrote:
>Yes several
individuals at the east coast Gathering had moved their
>batteries into
the trunk. If you check out Summit Racing they do offer a
>battery
relocation kit.
>
A word of warning. Something I learned from my rally
days, when we all
moved batteries to the trunk.
Be sure to run a #2
ground cable from the battery to the engine
compartment, and connect it to
the same place the original battery was
grounded. Do not rely on a frame
ground.
This is because high voltages, trying to return home to the
battery from
the lights and starter, will arc cross small crevices in the
frame and
accelerate corrosion. This problem is exacerbated in the
winter, when salt
water gets into the cracks and crevices. Rally cars,
running 600 to 800 W
of lights up front, can turn into a rusted hulk in a
year's time if they
don't take care of this little problem. We don't have the
exact same
problem with our cars, but I assume we are all going to keep our
beasts for
a long time, and you don't want it to rust out.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:28:58
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Moving batteries--shocking news
At 02:00 PM 5/14/01 -0400,
Schilberg, Darren wrote:
>Note also that some of those at the East Coast
Gathering also had external
>battery emergency cutoff switches (as seen on
race cars) in case the car is
>flipped over or wrecked. I can send a
picture of one of them.
>Moving the battery is more than unmount and bolt
back down. Good cautions
>all around.
I forgot one
thing: In the rally car, we always installed the battery in a
marine
battery box, which we bolted down to the floor of the trunk. This
kept it
from flying around the car and spilling acid all over the place (it
gets
pretty rough out there sometimes).
One time, on the Press on Regardless
world championship rally, a battery
connector came loose when we were flying
through Hiawatha National Forest
in the Michigan Upper Peninsula at full
chat. Suddenly, we lost all power
at about 80+ mph on a fire trail for a few
seconds -- everything went pitch
black and got real quiet -- then we hit a
pothole and got our power back.
This went on for several stages. When we got
to a stopping place, I jumped
out and asked if any of the spectators had a
battery tool. We found a
section of 2x4 to beat the terminal back on, and
then rolled up my jacket
to hold the 2x4 on top of the connector while
I forced the trunk lid down
over it. That got us to the next fuel halt, but
by then my jacket was full
of holes from battery acid.
At the same
time all this was happening, the exhaust pipe had come loose
from the
manifold, so we were running wide open exhaust. To complicate
things, the
throttle return spring had broken (it gets ROUGH out there).
Starting at
controls was a gas: I'd sit there with the engine at full
throttle through an
open exhaust, turning the key on and off until the
starter said "GO!", then
dump the clutch and launch off into the stage,
making full power upshifts,
turning the ignition off to slow down, and
periodically losing all power when
the battery cable came loose. We made it
150 miles that way, until we got to
a fuel halt and I could ask the service
crew to fix everything. The worst was
when I'd turn off the key too far,
and the steering would lock. I needed
three hands to work everything --
key, steering, shift.
And you guys
think open tracking and drag racing is exciting! You ain't
seen diddley until
you try a pro rally.
Oh, geez...what's the 3S connection? Oh,
yeah: Be sure to tighten those
battery connections down real tight.
Whew! Don't want to go off topic.
Rich/old poop
Sigh. Nostalgia just
isn't what it used to be.
94 VR4
92 Eagle Talon TSi future Pro Rally
car
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:42:27
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Moving batteries--shocking news
> >Note also that some
of those at the East Coast Gathering
> also had external battery
emergency cutoff switches (as
> seen on race cars) in case the car is
flipped over or
> wrecked. I can send a picture of one of
them.
> Moving the battery is more than unmount and bolt back
>
down. Good cautions all around.
Also consider putting a
circuit breaker near the battery in the trunk to
protect against shorts in
the wire leading up to the front of the car. In
locations where you
have to route the wire through the firewall or other
metal parts use grommets
to keep the wire away from the metal. The circuit
breaker is to protect
against direct shorts to the chassis. You'll need a
breaker with a high
enough trip point to allow the starter to work though.
Most of the ones I
used were car audio stuff (running the cable to the back
for gear, not moving
the battery), up to 150 amps, but I'm sure you can get
higher amperage
breakers than that for this purpose. You could also use a
fusible link
same as the stock setup.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:51:07
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: CB antenna
For the trip to the East Coast Gathering I now have my
very own CB. I used
it this last weekend on a trip through Virginia
(where radar detectors are
illegal). Boy are these truckers nice folks
once they know you are on their
side. It was like some clips from
"Smokey and the Bandit" as my little
black "four wheeler" darted around them
sometimes.
Anyway, I mounted the magnet-bottom just to the left of the
rear corner of
the power sunroof (so I could still use the sunroof). A
good foundation for
the most part. Front and center in front of the
sunroof is the only better
position but then the wires get in the way.
The trunk is good but not quite
high enough (I tested this).
Important
note: the box is correct when it claims to hold at all speed
limits. It
does tend to un-mount itself from the roof at 110 mph which also
gives lousy
reception.
I noticed that the base did slide an inch after some highway
miles and only
scratched a minor portion but the paint is so scratched
already I could not
tell much. Some people put felt or some plastic
wrap underneath to prevent
scratching (I'll do that next time).
Just
thought I'd share since I don't see many posts on where to mount
the
antenna. (The CB was from Radio Shack and about $60 and the antenna
was
about $20 and was a Fiberglass whip antenna).
- --Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 15:47:38
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: interior bubbles
>Mark wrote:
>happen on the dash
anywhere...
>its not annoying yet, but its
looking
>weirdo.
>and their getting bigger.
Yea, IBM's :) ,
my goofy website term for them :) more info on
http://www.ecanfix.com/users/doordoctor/>Before
you all post, don't post me
>that fix someone made, I think
Vihnet
>(sorry spelling)
Vineet
>with that huge stick
that goes across
>the door.. that is not an option
>for me.
I
didn't think it was "huge"... or a stick, and everyone that see's it
doesn't
think it's out of place (2 owners thought it was factory :),
but no one else
has ever bought one yet (lots have asked!), partly
because I don't know if I
could still make them. I just started to use
oure new welder, and it seems
like a possiblilty again. My setup has
held up for over 8 months with no
problems, and I don't think the
bubbles will/could come back.
>im
looking for some kind of
>glue or silicon or heat glue or
something
>that i can stick underneath there
>and spread it all out
either using a
>syringe or going behind the door
>panel and making
it stick again.
Unfortunately, this really doesn't work. Or at least it
won't work for
long. The door panel is made of moulded fiberboard, which was
sprayed
EVENLY at the factory, and the skin was (probably) vacuum formed
to
it. At acute curves like the "arm rests", in the heat/sun, and
from
use, the fiber behind the "skin" loosens up. If you are unlucky,
it
completely lets go, and you get a "bubble". You would have to use
a
slow setting glue, that you could spread evenly (good luck!), and
have
some "work" time where you can clamp it properly for a while as
it
cures.
>I believe we all agreed that this was
>due to the
heat and the glue just
>drying out and not holding the
>material to
the metal anymore..
Getting the glue to be even is very tricky, and on
top of that, most
glues won't work. I took a trashed door panel apart, and
found that
the FIBERBOARD is the problem, the top layer of fibers seperate
off
the moulding, and stick to the skin. So when you go to glue it,
you
are trying to glue little bits of fiber back to already weak
fiber
underneath... much like building a house on a crappy foundation...
and
usually the problem comes back. I bet garaging, and/or window
tinting
would help keep this problem from appearing in the first
place.
>Any recommendations, or anyone
>had any luck with any
other type of
>glue.. i havn't tried anything yet.
My suggestion?
Go find another door panel from a junk yard, early ones
all seem to be
grey/blackish, but later models had more than 1 color
panel. You can discard
the junkyard inserts, and perhaps trim and
speaker grilles, and swap yours
back in place. Then garage and/or tint
the windows, and hope it doesn't
happen again. The door panels are
easy as pie to remove, but are a bit tricky
to reinstall properly,
just make sure you get the upper part "latched"
properly, and all the
clips are in good condition.
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 00:16:22
+0100
From: Syncom <
syncom@mail.digitel2002.hu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Yellow turning lights
> On Sun, 13 May 2001, Andrzej
Artymowicz wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Hi!
>>
>> I live in Europe, Poland.
>> How can I get rear yellow
turn lamps for my 3000GT?
>> Any ideas?
>>
>>
>> That would depend on what your local ordinance says. Can they
be yellow?
>
> In fact all turn lights should be yellow/amber here
in Europe ! Only
> imports are allowed to have red ones.
>
Andrzej,
I think some weeks ago I wrote a post about the problems
with the lamps
of American cars in Europe. I don't know how strict the
technical
inspections in Poland are (and I'm not sure what Roger meant by
'imports'),
but in my country you only see red turning lights on cars with
American
license plates, those of US military personnel or diplomats, etc.
And,
as I wrote, the yellow turning light is not the only requirement. They
even
check the projection pattern of the front lamps, which MUST be angled,
as
opposed to the flat patterns on American cars. THEORETICALLY, you
could
only register your American 3000GT in Europe if you
1. buy the
headlights for the European model (no workaround that I know of)
2.
modify the yellow front side marker for turning light only, at all
other
times it should stay dark even with the headlights on
3. somehow
install a WHITE front side marker (the 94+ European 3000GT model has
an
elliptical white 'eye' above both side air inlets at the front of the
car)
4. modify the back combination light. I bought the stop light
section for
the European model, and found a company in my town who could
somehow
cut out a square part of the original red plastic, and replaced it
with
yellow plastic, looked like a routine job for them, and the result
was
perfect, you'd never say it's not factory done. If I remember
correctly,
my Mitsu dealer also had to do some electrical rewiring
there.
If you decide to buy any official part for the European model from
Mitsubishi
Europe, it's easy to get a price projection. Email any US dealer
for a price
quote, multiply the amount by four, and you get the price you'll
have to
pay. So, any part that costs, say, 100 dollars in the US will cost
400 dollars
here in Europe, etc. I'd say this is simply shocking, but in a
way understandable,
since apart from the extremely rich, people are not
supposed to have sports cars
or even sporty looking cars in
Europe.
Best wishes,
Zsolt Kovacs
95 3000GT SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 17:14:15
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Torque sensor
I just came across an interesting torque sensor.
The Embedded Magnetic
Domain sensor can measure torque of a rotating shaft
without contact. It is
available in ranges up to 737 ft. lb (higher ranges
available in custom
versions). It works by first conditioning the shaft with
a magnetic pattern
that varies when torque is applied. The sensor measures
the distorted field.
Seems like you data acquisition and dyno folks are
always looking for
clever items like this, so I thought I'd pass it
along.
For more info, go to
www.fastechnology.comRich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 15:38:00
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Yellow turning lights
Jeszcze Polska nie zginela
Last
month when i was in Poland I saw a 94 3kgt with yellow turning
lights.
However where I was there really are no cops. I also know that if you
have
enough money you can pay off the cop anyway. Your biggest problem is
that no
matter what you do that car will turn heads. Both good and
bad.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart_kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Syncom" <
syncom@mail.digitel2002.hu>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 14, 2001 4:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Yellow turning
lights
> > On Sun, 13 May 2001, Andrzej Artymowicz
wrote:
> >
> >> Hi!
> >>
> >> I
live in Europe, Poland.
> >> How can I get rear yellow turn lamps
for my 3000GT?
> >> Any ideas?
> >>
> >>
That would depend on what your local ordinance says. Can they
be
yellow?
> >
> > In fact all turn lights should be
yellow/amber here in Europe ! Only
> > imports are allowed to have red
ones.
> >
>
> Andrzej,
> I think some weeks ago I
wrote a post about the problems with the lamps
> of American cars in
Europe. I don't know how strict the technical
> inspections in Poland are
(and I'm not sure what Roger meant by
'imports'),
> but in my country
you only see red turning lights on cars with American
> license plates,
those of US military personnel or diplomats, etc. And,
> as I wrote, the
yellow turning light is not the only requirement. They
even
> check the
projection pattern of the front lamps, which MUST be angled, as
> opposed
to the flat patterns on American cars. THEORETICALLY, you could
> only
register your American 3000GT in Europe if you
>
> 1. buy the
headlights for the European model (no workaround that I
know
of)
>
> 2. modify the yellow front side marker for turning
light only, at all
other
> times it should stay dark even with the
headlights on
>
> 3. somehow install a WHITE front side marker (the
94+ European 3000GT
model has
> an elliptical white 'eye' above both
side air inlets at the front of the
car)
>
> 4. modify the back
combination light. I bought the stop light section for
> the European
model, and found a company in my town who could somehow
> cut out a square
part of the original red plastic, and replaced it with
> yellow plastic,
looked like a routine job for them, and the result was
> perfect, you'd
never say it's not factory done. If I remember correctly,
> my Mitsu
dealer also had to do some electrical rewiring there.
>
> If you
decide to buy any official part for the European model
from
Mitsubishi
> Europe, it's easy to get a price projection. Email
any US dealer for a
price
> quote, multiply the amount by four, and you
get the price you'll have to
> pay. So, any part that costs, say, 100
dollars in the US will cost 400
dollars
> here in Europe, etc. I'd say
this is simply shocking, but in a way
understandable,
> since apart
from the extremely rich, people are not supposed to have
sports cars
>
or even sporty looking cars in Europe.
>
> Best wishes,
>
Zsolt Kovacs
> 95 3000GT SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 18:00:46
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Throttle Body
To follow up on the throttle body, it did
appear the
wax pellets had gone bad - a swift change of a used
part from
the local junkyard for 35 dollars cleared it
right up. So, apparently it DOES
happen, though
probably not very often.
Here's a seperate
question: I've noticed a little
moisture after rain near the trans dipstick
tube,
and Im a little concerned about moisture getting
through the tube,
as some trace amounts showed
up there before a flush, but the radiator wasn't
the
culprit. So I thought maybe placing a rubber gasket
near the top,
beneath the stick cap might do it.
Anyone ever have such a
problem?
later,
john 93 es
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:55:02
-0400
From: Mark W <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Throttle Position
Greetings all. I went to the track the other day
to get some baseline runs
before I install my new turbos. I have been
having some problems tuning in
my ai/wi system as 110psi from the pump is
just putting out too much fuel
;). My real question is, on my first
run the max I could hit with the
throttle was 93% (and believe me I was
standing on it). I noticed this
with my datalogger (actually the
pocketlogger, it's great for the track) so
I tightened up the throttle cable
a bit. I figured that my problem was
because I didn't put the throttle
support at the plenum on in the right
spot. On my next run I hit 94%
throttle (down the whole track, speed
shifting). My problem is if I
put the throttle on the floor it appears
that the cable is hitting the
stop. So does this mean that the throttle is
opening to WOT and my
sensor is just not seeing it? I haven't yet try
standing on the
throttle with the Y-pipe off to see what it looks like in
the throttle
body. I thought I'd throw it out here to see if there were
any
ideas...
TIA.
Mark W.
'93 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:49:16
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGTs once again
Some mountings are different, so each persons
recommended temp. will be
based on their probe position. Mine is
drilled and tapped into the the back
turbo housing about an inch downstream
of the exhaust manifold flange. My
readings are around 700C @ steady
throttle, around 800C under heavy
throttle, and max out around 850-875 under
sustained WOT. I found my
numbers to be very much in line with numbers
reported by Jack T. a number of
years ago when I had completed my 13G
conversion. BTW I thought I would try
running the 13G's with the stock
injectors prior to installing 500cc
injectors. The first time I dialed
the boost to 1.1 bar I saw 950C half way
thru third gear at full
throttle. I consider 900C to be the high limit and
950-1000 as melt
down bait.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:21:40
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Throttle Position
> On my next run I hit 94% throttle
(down the whole track, speed
> shifting). My problem is if I put
the throttle on the floor
> it appears that the cable is hitting the
stop. So does this
> mean that the throttle is opening to WOT and my
sensor is
> just not seeing it?
Your TPS is probably not adjusted
quite right. Have a friend push down on
the gas pedal and you should
hear the throttle plate hit its stop. If you
can hear that, then the
throttle cable should be adjusted okay. You don't
want to have it
adjusted so that more pressure can be put on the cable after
it contacts the
stops though - you can break the throttle cable if it is
adjusted too
tight. Once you are happy with how the cable is set up, then
hook up
your pocketlogger and measure TPS.
The TPS is the black semi-circular
sensor on the front side of the throttle
body with an electrical connector
towards the passenger side of the car.
There is an 8mm (?) bolt on the top
and bottom of the sensor holding it in
place. You should be able to
loosen those (carefully!) and rotate the
sensor to get the readings you are
looking for. 0% at idle and 100% at WOT.
Also check that the IPS (Idle
Position Switch) is open (infinite resistance)
at idle.
There are more
specific instructions on how to adjust it in the service
manuals if you have
those, but using the Pocketlogger you should be able to
get it tweaked in
fairly well.
Wish I could use the PocketLogger on my car!
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:22:24
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED INFO
Anybody there knows, what I must do first with my
engine performance,
please kindly advise me.
Before I changed all spark
plugs, I investigated that spark plug for
cylinder no. 3 in my engine is bad
in which the color of electrode always
dark like the mixture of fuel in
combustion chamber never burnt perfectly
because of that when I drive my car
and accelerate the rpm always stiffly
and vibrate it always happen when I
drive from 40 km/h to 50 km/h above 50
km/h it never comes.
I
decided to replaced all spark plugs with new ones, but always happen into
my
engine performance and also I have changed the wire no.3 from ignition
coil
the condition never changed.
In my question, should it come from my bad
injector no.3 or any mulfunction
in ignition coil or ECU ?
Your kindly
assistance will be highly appreciated.
Kindly regards,
90
GTi16V
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:23:58
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Throttle Position
> There are more specific instructions
on how to adjust
> it in the service manuals if you have those,
but
> using the Pocketlogger you should be able to get
> it tweaked
in fairly well.
I should have added that when you tighten the bolts on
the TPS, just barely
snug them up - the torque spec is 1-2 ft/lbs. I
stripped one of mine. Doh!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 05:11:32
-0400
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
17" x 9.5" wheels
Hello everybody,
Does anybody know if a 17" x
9.5" wheel would fit on our TT with 40mm
offset and 255/40ZR17 tires without
any rubbing? They are the only
wheels that I have been able to find for
a reasonable price in decent
enough width, usually 17" wheels don't have the
offset needed or the
minimum width of the stock wheels which is 8.5". I
know that there are
people on the list with wheels that are 9" wide.
Does anyone have 9.5"
wide wheels? If so, what offset is needed for
them to properly fit
without rubbing. If anyone does, could you please
let me know. Time is
of the essence. Trying to get my car down to
AAM for some extensive
work but I currently have a bent rim and will need to
get 4 new ones
prior to them working on it so they can dyno it.
Thanks
in advance,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:13:37
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
>In my question, should it come from my bad
injector no.3 or any mulfunction
>in ignition coil or ECU ?
I think
yo uare close to the result as I'd say that #3 injector never
closes fully
and therefore too much fuel is hitting the chamber. The first
you can do is
running an injector cleaner directly into the fuel rail
(there is a Mitsu
tool for that purpose) or put the cleaner into the tank.
If the same
situation stays, the get the injectors cleaned and balanced.
Hope this
helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 07:27:42
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEED INFO
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>In my question, should it come from my bad injector no.3 or any
mulfunction
> >in ignition coil or ECU
?
<snip>
Roger responded:
> If the same situation
stays, the get the injectors cleaned and balanced.
I asked the question
about cleaning and balancing a few weeks ago and
got no reply. I did
some superficial snooping and it seems that there
is no way to balance
injectors other than select injectors that have the
same flow rate from a
group of tested ones --- if someone knows
otherwise please let me
know.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 10:43:25
-0400
From: Michael Salter <
magicare@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 17" x 9.5" wheels
Hi Boris,
I have 255/45 ZR17 tires on my
'92 VR4. No rubbing. I can't comment on
offset as I have never compared
my wheels to original equipment.
- --
Regards,
Mike
Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 07:49:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
Jim, I don't know either of a way we can balance
the injectors
ourselves. RC Engineering cleaned and balanced my stock
injectors for
$24 each. Before, they flowed between 362.0 to 372.1 cc/min
(after
54K miles of use as far as I know). Afterwards, they all
flowed
between 379.9 and 380.5 cc/min (43 psi test pressure). That's
good
for about 12 HP increase at 80% IDC and 0.5 BSFC. RCE also flow
tests
fuel pumps ($50 each).
http://www.rceng.com/Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Roger
Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 15, 2001 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>>
In my question, should it come from my bad injector no.3 or
>> any
mulfunction in ignition coil or ECU?
<snip>
Roger
responded:
> If the same situation stays, the get the injectors cleaned
and
balanced.
I asked the question about cleaning and balancing a few
weeks ago and
got no reply. I did some superficial snooping and it seems that
there
is no way to balance injectors other than select injectors that
have
the same flow rate from a group of tested ones --- if someone
knows
otherwise please let me
know.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:01:49
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEED INFO
Jeff
I guess I'll have to make a couple of calls --- I can
see where professional
cleaning may return the flow to the original
specifications and thus make it
appear as though some mechanical alteration
was done, but in reality the
only change was cleaning
?!?!?!?
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
>
Jim, I don't know either of a way we can balance the injectors
>
ourselves. RC Engineering cleaned and balanced my stock injectors for
>
$24 each. Before, they flowed between 362.0 to 372.1 cc/min (after
> 54K
miles of use as far as I know). Afterwards, they all flowed
> between
379.9 and 380.5 cc/min (43 psi test pressure>
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> >> In my question, should it come from my bad injector no.3
or
> >> any mulfunction in ignition coil or ECU?
>
>
<snip>
>
> Roger responded:
> > If the same
situation stays, the get the injectors cleaned and
> balanced.
>
> I asked the question about cleaning and balancing a few weeks ago
and
> got no reply. I did some superficial snooping and it seems that
there
> is no way to balance injectors other than select injectors that
have
> the same flow rate from a group of tested ones --- if someone
knows
> otherwise please let me know.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:17:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
Jim,
I don't know the exact procedure RCE uses.
You would have to contact
them for that info. I have the impression they do
more than run a
"cleaning fluid" through the injector, but maybe not. Below
is a link
to a PDF file (43 KB) of the calibration report they gave
me.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius8/j8-rc_eng_inj.pdfIf
you give them a call, please let us know what you find
out.
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 15, 2001 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
Jeff
I
guess I'll have to make a couple of calls --- I can see where
professional
cleaning may return the flow to the original
specifications and thus make it
appear as though some mechanical
alteration was done, but in reality the only
change was cleaning
?!?!?!?
Jim Berry
===============================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:44:59
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEED INFO
Jeff
A call to RC engineering verified my understanding
--- the injectors
have no mechanical means of being adjusted or balanced.
The
procedure is to return the injector to it's original state with
some
high tech cleaning. RC basically said that if you start with a
quality
injector they should return to within ½% or less of their stated
value.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Jim
Berry <
fastmax@home.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Jim,
> I don't know the exact procedure RCE uses. You would have to
contact
> them for that info. I have the impression they do more than run
a
> "cleaning fluid" through the injector, but maybe not. Below is a
link
> to a PDF file (43 KB) of the calibration report they gave
me.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius8/j8-rc_eng_inj.pdf>
>
If you give them a call, please let us know what you find out.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:01:53
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NEED INFO
>I asked the question about cleaning and
balancing a few weeks ago and
> got no reply. I did some superficial
snooping and it seems that there
>is no way to balance injectors other
than select injectors that have the
>same flow rate from a group of tested
ones --- if someone knows
>otherwise please let me know.
Well,
sometimes too much messages sit in the box and I have to go throug
hthem
quick ;) Regarding balancing injectors, this can be done by at least
RC
Engineering
www.rceng.com . I had some Densos
720 where one caused a
piston damage (sprayed not enough) and a local Honda
dealer repaired and
balanced them. The RC Injectors in my car came with a
test slip to see the
balance of the flow :)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 13:54:15
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Mopar
Lube cross-reference
Is there a chart available that I could find on the
'net or that some of you
might have that would cross-reference
Mopar-compatible greases and other
lubes. I am sick of dealing with
the local dodge dealer every time I need
some type of grease specified in
the repair manual.
Thor Holth (1991 Stealth R/T Turbo)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#493
*********************