team3s              Sunday, May 13 2001              Volume 01 : Number 491




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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 12:13:07 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel system questions

>> The resistor pack on my car is connected into a plug
>> under the fuse box and then it leads straight into
>> the wiring harness near the battery.  I was under
>> the impression that there is supposed to be a relay
>> somewhere under/near the fusebox that controls
>> current flow to go either through the resistor pack
>> or direct to the fuel pump.

> This is the relay plus resistor in one pack. In fact
> it is under the MAS.

Can't be the relay AND resistor.  There are only two wires going to it.  To
do both tasks it would require a minimum of four wires.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 10:27:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to adjust the steering wheel?

Thanks, Steve! Exactly what Im looking for..

Best,
George
- --- StevePKT77@aol.com wrote:
> OK I didn't realize you had an alignment (I shoulda
> noticed you mentioned the
> alignment shop in the original post).  But anyway,
> as far as I've known you
> can remove the steering wheel and replace it a few
> teeth to the right (I'm
> opening up my '92 Stealth service manual right now,
> let's see what it says). 
> They call it "indexing steering wheel to center it"
> (p. 19A-7, for those of
> you reading along).  It says the steering wheel
> shaft has 36 splines,
> allowing the steering wheel to be indexed in
> ten-degree increments.  The
> other way (which is probably the way you are
> thinking of) is to adjust the
> tie-rods on both sides.  Here you would center the
> steering wheel and then
> adjust the tie rods so that they both point
> straight.  Again, the alignment
> shop should have already done this.... it seems that
> they lined up the wheels
> straight with respect to each other, but paid no
> attention to the positioning
> of the steering wheel itself.  If you wanted to
> center yours this way, you
> would turn the tie rod ends on both sides each the
> same amount, so as to keep
> the alignment.  If your steering wheel is off to the
> left while the wheels
> are straight, you want to adjust the tie rods so
> that they are both steering
> more to the left.  Remember though, pay good
> attention to how you much you
> are adjusting each side (i.e., how many revolutions
> per tie rod) to keep your
> alignment correct.  And also remember, if you make
> the left side's tie rod
> effectively SHORTER by adjustment, then you would
> make the right side's
> LONGER, to get the same effect on the steering of
> the wheels.
> If it were me, though, I'd take it back to the
> alignment shop and tell them
> to make it right like they should have the first
> time.
> Here's a question though:  Did you get the axle put
> on at the same time (by
> the same people) as the alignment?  If not, maybe
> they took off the tie rod
> at the time of replacing the axle, and put it back
> incorrectly, which has
> ruined your alignment again.  I don't see why you
> would take the tie rod off
> to get the axle off though, not necessary as far as
> I know.  In any case, let
> us know how you make out.
> -Steve
>
> In a message dated 5/11/01 5:07:15 PM US Eastern
> Standard Time,
> amkreadgto@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << i got an alignment done not so ago.. i just had
> an
>  axle put in.. the car drives straight.. just the
>  steering wheel is off... i thought i can just
> adjust
>  it myself... i seen alignment shop mechanics doing
>  this.. somewhere underneath the car, u can adjust
> it..
>  u know where? >>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 19:33:01 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel system questions

> > This is the relay plus resistor in one pack. In fact
> > it is under the MAS.
>
> Can't be the relay AND resistor.  There are only two wires going to it.
To
> do both tasks it would require a minimum of four wires.

Ah yes, my fault, the resistor is under the fuse box and the relay one or
two inches behind it.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: 12 May 2001 10:38:02 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: CAPS Question

Sorry my previous e-mail was accidentaly sent.

I finally finished dowloading caps at work because it took too long with a modem.  I have a few questions on using it.

WHat is the part for outer fron tie rod end for a 1991 VR4?  I have looked everywhere and all I can find is the entire steering assembly.

How do you look for another year car if you don't have the VIN number?  I am finishing up my 4-bolt main conversion and I am trying to compare 91 to 93 parts to see if any more change (other than listed on Jeff Lucius' page).

Thanks for the help!

John Monnin
1991 VR4
4-bolt main to be completed in the next few weeks after a year of downtime
jkmonnin@altavista.com


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: 12 May 2001 10:38:02 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: CAPS Question

Sorry my previous e-mail was accidentaly sent.

I finally finished dowloading caps at work because it took too long with a modem.  I have a few questions on using it.

WHat is the part for outer fron tie rod end for a 1991 VR4?  I have looked everywhere and all I can find is the entire steering assembly.

How do you look for another year car if you don't have the VIN number?  I am finishing up my 4-bolt main conversion and I am trying to compare 91 to 93 parts to see if any more change (other than listed on Jeff Lucius' page).

Thanks for the help!

John Monnin
1991 VR4
4-bolt main to be completed in the next few weeks after a year of downtime
jkmonnin@altavista.com


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 15:30:43 -0400
From: Mark Hindelang <hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Ceiling Cleaning

Hi all. Does anyone have any tips on cleaning the carpet ceiling of
the stealths?  im not sure if the 3kgts have it as well, but im sure
they do.
Mine is just kinda of dirty. has some blood stains on it, some make up
stains,
and just some tar stains from smoking .. no one smokes in the car now,
but in the back it is a little tarish (dark color) in the cornering.

do you think i could steam clean this, by renting a steam cleaner and
then just using it upside down to
get at the ceiling, or is there another recommendation, using carpet
cleaner and spraying it up there..
i hope i don't have to go that way cuz its hard working upside down, and
also i don't want to have to
scrub scrub scrub up there because the carpeting is fragiile upe there,
and i don't want to mess it up
tear, or break it ..

also how are your mirrors.. the vinyl or carpeting around the mirros
when you pull the
head mirrors down.. all around the mirrors the carpet has come loose and
is split into two.
so it doesnt encase the mirror and light fixture anymore, its just kind
of loose paper.

does anyone have any tips on fixing this?  i think i would have to heat
it up first to stretch it
cuz its tight right now.. super glue might work. i dunno.


Thanks for your help all.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 15:34:36 -0400
From: Mark Hindelang <hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: interior bubbles

I know this has been around many many times, and myself included has
posted many many times, but i ask again..

has anyone made or discovered any remedy for the interior bubbles that
pop
up on the interior door panels?  ive just started getting them on my
drivers
side, and have a huge one on the passenger side.. im just hoping that it
doesn't
happen on the dash anywhere...  its not annoying yet, but its looking
weirdo.
and their getting bigger.

Before you all post, don't post me that fix someone made, I think Vihnet
(sorry spelling)
with that huge stick that goes across the door.. that is not an option
for me.
im looking for some kind of glue or silicon or heat glue or something
that i can stick underneath there
and spread it all out either using a syringe or going behind the door
panel and making it stick again.

I believe we all agreed that this was due to the heat and the glue just
drying out and not holding the
material to the metal anymore..


Any recommendations, or anyone had any luck with any other type of
glue.. i havn't tried anything yet.


Thanks.

Mark

(beautiful day isn't it!!!)

you should all be out washing or working on your cars !  ^__^

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 16:00:10 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel system questions

> Ah yes, my fault, the resistor is under the fuse box
> and the relay one or two inches behind it.

Strange.  Mine doesn't have that.  I did a little experiment to see if it
has a relay "somewhere" by unplugging the resistor pack.  The car will only
run with more than 1/2 throttle applied - so there at least must be a
straight-through fuel pump circuit somewhere on the car.  I can't find it
for the life of me, but at least I know my fuel pump can get full voltage
over 1/2 throttle.  I guess that's really what I was looking for.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 17:21:46 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: PMS and InterACQ for 3000 GT VR4

Everyone,

OK people.  I looked more into the EFI PMS and the InterACQ software that
Matt Jannusch mentioned.  In my opinion it is not better than the Autronics
SMC or the SM2 replacement ECU for our TT/VR4s.

http://www.efisystems.com/  -- PMS ECU and software

PMS System $999.00
3 bar map sensor $63.99 Optional
Windows software $299.00 Optional
Shipping ????
$1362 Total
- ----------------------------
http://www.turbofast.com.au/autronic/autronic.html  -- Autronics ECU and
Soft.

$876.30 SMC
$146.05 Autotune Software
$41.38 Shipping SMC
$172.83 Bosch Wideband O2 Sensor (optional)

$1236.56 Total

If you guys want to see a breakdown of prices and description on the SMC or
the SM2 ECU look @ the following link:
http://sun.science.wayne.edu/~mraicu/SM2_and_SMC_description.xls

In my opinion it is the superior ECU.  Keep in mind that neither ECU
supports Knock sensor readout/datalogging nor interpretation by new ECU.  I
talked to both RAY HALL (Autronics) and Rick from EFI.

(Quote from Rick:"We do not read or display knock. You can adjust timing and
fuel based on throttle position. If you buy the optional map sensor you can
adjust based on boost instead.")

Those looking into alternative fuel controllers/boost controllers/ECU other
than the ARC-@ setup that many have, should study these two possibilities in
depth.  However, for the 94+ cars, there is still no way to monitor KNOCK
aside from the aftermarket sensor Roger Gerl has on his car.  I'm not sure
how well that works and if it would be reliable to tune it in the 94+ TTs.

One Team3S member, Mikael Kenson, has the SM2 setup installed on his car.
Last I talked to him, he wasn't totally done installing.  Maybe he will
update us on the installation of the setup and how he likes the new ECU.  It
would probably be prudent for us not to bombard him with e-mails on his ECU.

What do the experts think on the comparisons b/w the 2 ECUs.

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
Westland, Michigan


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 17:30:41 -0400
From: Mark Hindelang <hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: black top dent

the black shiny part of our cars on the top.

i have a small dent in it.. it looks to me like i can just take
a toilet plunger and suck it back up.

has anyone tried this, or does anyone have a better way of doing this?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 17:32:35 -0400
From: Mark Hindelang <hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: fixing door locks

hi all, 

just wanted to let you all know since i just finished doing so.

both of my door locks were extremely locking up on on cold and warm
days.
they made lots of noise, and were so annoying even one time i had to get
into
the car through the trunk..

anyway, i just finished dissasembling the door panels which takes about
5 minutes each, and
sprayed down the lock mechanism with wd40 and now both locks work like
BUTTER!  no noise, opens every time
and its very smoooth..

im sure this will work on the trunk lock as well. i need to do this
anyway.


good luck.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 18:55:04 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: PMS and InterACQ for 3000 GT VR4

> OK people.  I looked more into the EFI PMS and the
> InterACQ software that Matt Jannusch mentioned.
> In my opinion it is not better than the Autronics
> SMC or the SM2 replacement ECU for our TT/VR4s.

Is the SMC a piggyback setup like the PMS, or does it completely replace the
stock ECU?  Seems interesting.  What does it use to measure intake airflow?
Seems like the Autronic has better tuning software, including "automatic"
tuning.  Wonder how it knows what to tune towards though (ie: what A/F ratio
to target at various boost levels/loads, etc.).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 18:40:53 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Boost Gauge hookup

Where do I attach the hose from my Autometer boost Gauge?

Does anyone have a website with this information or if someone has a write
up on it.

Thks
Moe


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 18:50:25 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Gauge hookup

- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
> Where do I attach the hose from my Autometer boost Gauge?  Does anyone
have a website with this information or if someone has a write up on it?>
> Thks, Moe
>


Did you try our website?  :-)  Everything we've ever discussed on the Team3S
list is in our website archives.  Our Search Page references over 900
pages(!)  If you go to the Search Page and enter "Autometer", it will return
32 instances where we have discussed the Autometer on the list.  You can
narrow that down a bit by using a search "string", such as +Autometer +hose,
which will return 21 discussions where both words were used.  One of the
pages will probably give you the info you need.

Good luck!

Best,

Forrest



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 04:14:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Gauge hookup

Hi Moe,

For boost gauges, many people use a 3-way connector to tap into the
FPR (fuel pressure regulator) hose that attaches to the back of the
plenum near the throttle body and brake booster hose. There is a hole
in the "firewall" (maybe with a rubber grommet in it) near where the
steering column passes through to route the hose to car's interior.
My web page below shows a picture that identifies the FPR hose. This
hose and the other little ones near it on the TB are about 3.2-3.5 mm
ID.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-tap.htm

I never liked the idea of "mixing" vacuum/pressure hoses, I mean the
last thing you want is the FPR to *maybe* receive the wrong pressure
signal under boost and possibly under-pressure the fuel line, leading
to a lean A/F. I had the mechanic that rebuilt my engine add a tap to
the plenum to draw pressure readings from (seen on that same web
page). Also note that the shorter your hoses are, the faster the
devices connected to them will respond to plenum (or Y-pipe) pressure
conditions.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 6:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Boost Gauge hookup

Where do I attach the hose from my Autometer boost Gauge?

Does anyone have a website with this information or if someone has a
write up on it.

Thks
Moe

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:46:16 EDT
From: StealthCT@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Battery

Keep in mind if you are going to the track with a battery mounted in the
trunk you will also need an external kill switch in order to pass inspection.
 Regards  Charles

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:42:14 +0200
From: Andrzej Artymowicz <andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl>
Subject: Team3S: Yellow turn lights

Hi!

I live in Europe, Poland.
How can I get rear yellow turn lamps for my 3000GT?
Any ideas?

regards

Andrzej Artymowicz
andrzej.artymowicz@wp.pl
Poland
tel. +48 601 250368 C
tel. +48 22 6715375 H

'95 Pearl Green 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed) 40000mi

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:56:24 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: advice

> I took my car in for leak down test. He told me that cyl # 4 HAD 20%
> leak down.

Hmm, we never have a percentage when testign the leak down but if this means
that 20% of the pressure one applies to the chamber passes away then it is
definietly too much.

> He said that it is leaking past the piston and is probably a
> broken ring landing or cracked ring and it would be around a $1100s.

First, I guess he knew what he did as often the valves not closing properly
can cause the same problem. In this case we are using a stetoscope to listen
where the air passes by. Also we are testing this with TDC when all valves
are closed. Best is about 5° before as this is where ignition normally
applies.

The estimation is pretty cheap considering that either the engine must be
pulled and one piston changed (or the rings)

> This is a brand new motor with JE pistons.

Hmm, have you properly broken it in ? If so, how did the compession and leak
down test look after the engine was completed ? IMHO, one hasn't done his
job properly and it could be a matter of time until another piston or ring
can cause a problem.

> Is this a indication of weak coil packs?

No, as the timing lights do act upon a very little inductivity. If the
timign light doesn't show anything, then the engien wouldn't run too.

> How do you properly check coil packs?

We cannot check this with our normal garage tools. The service manual shows
the correct procedure and it is not that easy.

IMHO, bring it back to the one who rebuilt the engine and tell him the
problem. he must to everything as it is a warranty issue. Regarding the
coisl stuff I wonder what wires you are using as well as what plugs on what
gap.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #491
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