team3s
Friday, May 11
2001
Volume 01 : Number
490
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 11 May 2001 10:45:43 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re: 357 Failures????
>Hi Guys,
>I have been doing my
due diligence prior to purchasing some new turbos
>and have my mind set on
the 357s from GT Pro, but i thought you would
>find this string of e-mails
interesting since Altered has apparently
>seen "several" of these units
fail. Now I know they directly compete
>with GTPro and are trying to sell
their 18Gs as better turbos with the
>TD05 housing, so there is some bias
here. They are ridiculously
>expensive as well. I haven't heard anyone or
any other tuner mention of
>"any" failures except them???
I had
heard that the first generation of the 357's originally had some
problems,
but that they got the bugs worked out now. Maybe that's what they
were
talking about. I just bought a set myself, but haven't installed them
yet.
Can't wait!!!
Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 11:16:56
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: racing hart c5 weight?
Also ...
www.800wheels.com <
http://www.800wheels.com> has a
good selection
of OEM wheels (even ours) but shop around for price. Now
you can upgrade
your NA wheels to Ferrari wheels. :-)
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 9:39 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: racing hart c5 weight?
http://home.earthlink.net/~cvlocas/wheels.htmlThat
link and many, many more are available on the Garage Page at my
web site. I
didn't see the C5 listed there, however.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:29:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
Also, where POSSIBLE, Porterfield does
sell Brembo branded & stamped
rotors.
I know this, because the
rotors on my RX7-TT and Celica AllTrac showed up
as Brembo..but had the
standard part numbers on thier www site. When I
asked I was told that
when the parts are available..thats what they
source.
On Fri, 11 May
2001, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> >> They say their supplier is Brembo,
but that's a lot of crap.
>
> I called Autospecialty a week or so
ago and asked them who makes
> their rotors, the PowerStop line. The
fellow said that Brembo does
> indeed make many of there "raw castings".
However, the raw castings
> that Autospecialty machines into rotors for
3000GT/Stealth and many
> "Asian makes" are made by a factory in Taiwan.
He quickly added that
> the factory makes a very nice quality casting.
>
> I am guessing that the PowerStop rotors must be half way
decent else
> why would Porterfield sell them? Yes, Porterfield rotors for
our cars
> are PowerStop rotors. Look at the Porterfield web site and the
part
> numbers for our rotors and go look at a PowerStop dealer's site
and
> see the same part numbers again. It kind of makes me chuckle when
I
> see someone praise Porterfield then in the same sentence bad
mouth
> PowerStop. :)
>
> I am not advocating PowerStop or
any other make for that matter. This
> is just information. I do happen to
have PowerStop rotors on my car
> (with MetalMatrix pads) and have zero
problems with them. I do not
> race however, just drive sanely on the
street. More info on rotors is
> at my web page below, including ordering
info for Porterfield parts
> from Speedtoys.com.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>;
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@starnet.net>;
> "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 11:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: powerstop.
good bad?
>
>
> At 11:56 PM 5/10/01 -0400, Mark Hindelang
wrote:
> >
> >Whats the word on power stop cross drilled
rotors?
> >www.optauto.com has them for good prices,
> >but
the only time i ever saw "Power Stop Rotors"
> >was with the word
"crap"..
> >
> Absolutely. PowerSlot slotted rotors are great for
the street, and
> they look good cruising the boulevard. DO NOT, however,
use them to
> actually stop the car. When used in anger, they tend to
break into
> two pieces at the hub. I have broken two of them myself, and
Oskar
> broke another (a Stillen, but the same rotor from the same
supplier).
> In my opinion, all the crappy rotors -- Power Slots,
Power Stops,
> Stillens, etc. -- come from the same supplier, and they all
break.
> They say their supplier is Brembo, but that's a lot of crap.
>
> If you would like to see a photo of Oskar's broken rotor, go
to
>
http://www.trackguys.com/broken.htm>
Kind of scary.
>
> >Im still trying to find out the best rotor
setup?
> >Porterfield, Powerstop, brembo, stillen,
>
> For
our cars, the very best rotor is a Porterfield cryogenically
> treated
stock rotor. They do not warp.We get a 20% discount because
> of this
list.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4 w/Big Red calipers and Porterfield
rotors.>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:54:36
-0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: W
550 Injectors running too rich!
Dear friends Hi
I just hade installed
550 injectors together with exhaust and K&N (@ 15psi)
to my 92' TT and is
running now VERY RICH! (Stock turbos) So I am thinking
is time for fuel
controller. I have on mind the apex-i or the OEM kit from
Dynamic
Racing witch is more expensive but more simple. Did someone can
share some
experience in order to help me to control the fuel? There is not
any method
to program the ECU with the new size of the injectors?
Thank
you,
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 11:56:39
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: Battery deals?
The Optima in my GTI finally died. Choices
are another red top to
replace the last one that lasted for 7 (!) years, or
I may pull the
Optima I just bought for the VR4 to put in it. If the
latter, I'm
curious if there are any smokin' deals on "race"
(smaller/lighter)
batteries for the 3S. Either way, if anyone knows of
a sale going
on, please let me know.
Thanks!
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:07:00
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
Yeah, and
otherwise trade it in to ELF. Don't they give you an over bore TB for around
$200, and take your old one as core?
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Friday, May 11, 2001 7:08 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
>> What
moving parts exist in the throttle body
>> that might wear
out?
The only parts I can think of in/on the TB that can be
replaced
(besides nuts and bolts, etc.) are the following.
1) fast idle
air valve (FIAV),
2) ISC servo (called the IAC servo by Mitsu and ISC servo
by Dodge,
same part, idle speed control or idle air control),
3) throttle
position sensor / idle position switch (same part with
two functions,
TPS/IPS),
4) throttle plate, and
5) SAS (speed adjusting screw) and its
o-ring (a #5 if I remember
correctly).
The air-bypass passages can get
gunked up. They can be cleaned
(probably) but not replaced.
A diagram
showing some of these can be seen on page 14-15 in the
Stealth Technical
Information Manual, available exclusively at my web
site.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-stim.htmMore
info can be found in the "DSM" tech manual (Vinny's manuals on
CD) and the
Service Manuals.
Items 2 through 5 above can be purchased I believe from
dealers. It
is Item 1, FIAV, that I think is non-serviceable, but has anyone
here
ever heard of this part going bad? The position of the valve
is
controlled by a wax pellet that changes size depending on the
coolant
temp that circulates through the FIAV. It's sole purpose is
to
increase idle speed when coolant temp is below 122ºF. If the
TB-related
problems are occurring when the car is warm or during
acceleration, I would
guess the FIAV is not the cause. All other
parts can be tested (see the
service manuals) and replaced or cleaned
by the owner.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'john adams'" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 11, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and
window motors)
<snip>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: john adams [SMTP:johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:54 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window
motors)
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 11:15:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: W 550 Injectors running too rich!
Yes..sure _definitely_
need electronics to bring the injector signal down
when you upgrade
turbos.
No other method..you gotta buy electronics.
On Fri, 11 May
2001, Nickolaos M. Sgouros wrote:
> Dear friends Hi
> I just
hade installed 550 injectors together with exhaust and K&N (@ 15psi)
>
to my 92' TT and is running now VERY RICH! (Stock turbos) So I am
thinking
> is time for fuel controller. I have on mind the apex-i or
the OEM kit from
> Dynamic Racing witch is more expensive but more simple.
Did someone can
> share some experience in order to help me to control the
fuel? There is not
> any method to program the ECU with the new size of
the injectors?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Nikos the
Greek
> 92' RT TT
> Puerto Rico
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 11:12:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Battery deals?
You might consider the Dyna-Batt. Details and
pictures are at my web
page below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius6/j6-2-dynabatt.htmhttp://www.performancedistributors.com/
sells these and their web
site indicates a sale: $131.75 instead of $155.00.
(That's just under
$10 per pound, cheaper than filet
mignon!)
:)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Dave Monarchi" <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 11, 2001 11:56 AM
Subject: Team3S: Battery deals?
The
Optima in my GTI finally died. Choices are another red top to
replace
the last one that lasted for 7 (!) years, or I may pull the
Optima I just
bought for the VR4 to put in it. If the latter, I'm
curious if there
are any smokin' deals on "race" (smaller/lighter)
batteries for the 3S.
Either way, if anyone knows of a sale going
on, please let me know.
Thanks!
Dave
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60
=
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 11:24:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
Just to muddy the
waters..
Ive not yet seen any dyno results that on a turbo car a larger
TB does
anything.
Ive tried on the Supra, found nothing..a friend of
mine at 730Hp found 0Hp
in a larger TB as well..he remained on his
stocker.
On Fri, 11 May 2001, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> Yeah,
and otherwise trade it in to ELF. Don't they give you an over bore TB for around
$200, and take your old one as core?
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 7:08
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
>
>
> >> What moving parts exist in the throttle body
> >>
that might wear out?
>
> The only parts I can think of
in/on the TB that can be replaced
> (besides nuts and bolts, etc.) are the
following.
> 1) fast idle air valve (FIAV),
> 2) ISC servo (called
the IAC servo by Mitsu and ISC servo by Dodge,
> same part, idle speed
control or idle air control),
> 3) throttle position sensor / idle
position switch (same part with
> two functions, TPS/IPS),
> 4)
throttle plate, and
> 5) SAS (speed adjusting screw) and its o-ring (a #5
if I remember
> correctly).
>
> The air-bypass passages can
get gunked up. They can be cleaned
> (probably) but not replaced.
>
> A diagram showing some of these can be seen on page 14-15 in
the
> Stealth Technical Information Manual, available exclusively at my
web
> site.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-stim.htm>
> More info can be found in the "DSM" tech manual (Vinny's manuals
on
> CD) and the Service Manuals.
>
> Items 2 through 5 above
can be purchased I believe from dealers. It
> is Item 1, FIAV, that I
think is non-serviceable, but has anyone here
> ever heard of this part
going bad? The position of the valve is
> controlled by a wax pellet that
changes size depending on the coolant
> temp that circulates through the
FIAV. It's sole purpose is to
> increase idle speed when coolant temp is
below 122ºF. If the
> TB-related problems are occurring when the car is
warm or during
> acceleration, I would guess the FIAV is not the cause.
All other
> parts can be tested (see the service manuals) and replaced or
cleaned
> by the owner.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
To: "'john adams'" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>;
"Team3S"
> <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 7:12 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Throttle Body
and PCM (and window motors)
>
> <snip>
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: john adams
[SMTP:johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:54
PM
> > To: Team3S
> > Subject: Team3S: Re: Throttle Body and
PCM (and window motors)
>
> <snip>
- ---
Geoff
Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:34:50
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: 357 Failures????
Hi jeff.
I too have heard from
reliable sources that those turbos had some bugs
in them, and were
failing.
Since then there was official confirmation that it was fixed and all
of
the new manufactured 357's from Gtpro were fixed.
Hope this helps
back something up.
I don't consider myself to be a super reliable source from
the facts,
but
we all hear things, and that was one of the topics i was
paying
attention to at the time.
Good luck jeff, you sound like you
are gonna blow a bearing waiting for
those things
to go in. :)
Mark
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
>
> >Hi Guys,
>
> >I have been doing my
due diligence prior to purchasing some new turbos
> >and have my mind
set on the 357s from GT Pro, but i thought you would
> >find this
string of e-mails interesting since Altered has apparently
> >seen
"several" of these units fail. Now I know they directly compete
> >with
GTPro and are trying to sell their 18Gs as better turbos with the
>
>TD05 housing, so there is some bias here. They are ridiculously
>
>expensive as well. I haven't heard anyone or any other tuner mention
of
> >"any" failures except them???
>
> I had heard that
the first generation of the 357's originally had some
> problems, but that
they got the bugs worked out now. Maybe that's what they
> were talking
about. I just bought a set myself, but haven't installed them
> yet. Can't
wait!!!
>
> Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 20:20:54
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Battery deals?
> The Optima in my GTI finally died.
Choices are another red top
Get the new 1050 red top, rerally great thing
!!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 20:27:04
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: W 550 Injectors running too rich!
Of course you need a fuel
controller for 550cc injectors !!
- - The S-AFC is working with 550 but
would be not simple to be tuned in
perfectly
- - The ARC2-GP is good an
easy solution but some major work involed to
install it
- - The VPC is
also good but only with a GCC II or S-AFC combined. Even more
work that with
the others and new filters must be bought too
- - Upgrading the ECU provided
by G-Force. Critical as I know of people who
never got it runnign perfectly
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> I just hade installed 550
injectors together with exhaust and K&N (@
15psi)
> to my 92' TT
and is running now VERY RICH! (Stock turbos) So I am thinking
> is time
for fuel controller. I have on mind the apex-i or the OEM
kit
from
> Dynamic Racing witch is more expensive but more simple. Did
someone can
> share some experience in order to help me to control the
fuel? There is
not
> any method to program the ECU with the new size of
the injectors?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 16:09:06
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Battery deals?
i saw a few engine bays from the last ocean
city gathering pics that
blew my mind.
i wondered on some of them if there
was a battery in the car. cuz there
was sure not one
in the engine area...
was it in the trunk?
my buddy had a bmw battery that was litterally the
size of about 3
cigarette packs put together.
can we get those for our
cars?
Dave Monarchi wrote:
>
> The Optima in my GTI
finally died. Choices are another red top to
> replace the last one
that lasted for 7 (!) years, or I may pull the
> Optima I just bought for
the VR4 to put in it. If the latter, I'm
> curious if there are any
smokin' deals on "race" (smaller/lighter)
> batteries for the 3S.
Either way, if anyone knows of a sale going
> on, please let me
know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
> = 95 Black 3000GT
VR4 =
> = 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html>
= There is no spoon.. =
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:57:29
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Aftermarket Struts - Q for anyone who has them
While still
awaiting my Teins (still on a boat from Japan), I was poking
around in the
wheel well looking at stuff....
So with aftermarket struts, do they have
the hole/bracket used to secure the
brake line bracket to the strut?
I noticed on the front that there's a [stock] rubber brake line that
goes
from the engine bay to a bracket (hard pipe connection) on the strut
itself,
which has another rubber line on the other end that goes to the
caliper.
I can put pics on my website if you don't understand what I'm
referring
to... in CAPS, it's #56202L[R] or MB33613481 for the non-ABS
cars.
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
Magnacor KV85, M1
10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
Tein HA Coilovers
(UPS broke 1st set !?!?! 2nd in transit)
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17,
17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html'94
Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 17:45:31
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Battery deals?
Yes several individuals at the east coast Gathering had
moved their
batteries into the trunk. If you check out Summit Racing
they do offer a
battery relocation kit.
If you indeed plan on doing
this place the battery on the passenger side, to
off set the driver's weight
on the driver side.
I also don't recall anyone have a real small battery
in the trunk, because
you will have a little voltage drop due to the longer
cables, but they are
thicker too.
Hope this helps,
Dave
Best
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
To: "Dave
Monarchi" <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Friday,
May 11, 2001 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Battery deals?
> i
saw a few engine bays from the last ocean city gathering pics that
> blew
my mind.
> i wondered on some of them if there was a battery in the car.
cuz there
> was sure not one
> in the engine area... was it in the
trunk?
>
> my buddy had a bmw battery that was litterally the size
of about 3
> cigarette packs put together.
> can we get those for
our cars?
>
>
>
> Dave Monarchi wrote:
>
>
> > The Optima in my GTI finally died. Choices are another
red top to
> > replace the last one that lasted for 7 (!) years, or I
may pull the
> > Optima I just bought for the VR4 to put in it.
If the latter, I'm
> > curious if there are any smokin' deals on "race"
(smaller/lighter)
> > batteries for the 3S. Either way, if anyone
knows of a sale going
> > on, please let me know.
> >
>
> Thanks!
> >
> > Dave
> > = 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
> > = 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 23:46:25
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: synchro bloking rings?
What is it about the synchros that wears
out, exactly? KORMEX has new 1st
and 2nd gear synchro bloking rings...
is that all that's needed to correct
mild grinding? I have a complete
set of synchros from Jack T's '98 deal
with Mitsu, but perhaps I should keep
those for later and take advantage of
KORMEX's stock? Thanks.
-
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:47:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: How to adjust the steering wheel?
Hello All,
My steering
wheel is off to the left a bit.. and I was
just wondering how I can adjust
it? I seen the
alignment shop do it somewhere under the car...
does
anyone where exactly to
adjust??
Thanks,
George
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 17:06:33
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Moving batteries--shocking news
At 05:45 PM 5/11/01 -0400, WALTER
D. BEST wrote:
>Yes several individuals at the east coast Gathering had
moved their
>batteries into the trunk. If you check out Summit
Racing they do offer a
>battery relocation kit.
>
A word of
warning. Something I learned from my rally days, when we all
moved batteries
to the trunk.
Be sure to run a #2 ground cable from the battery to the
engine
compartment, and connect it to the same place the original battery
was
grounded. Do not rely on a frame ground.
This is because high
voltages, trying to return home to the battery from
the lights and starter,
will arc cross small crevices in the frame and
accelerate corrosion.
This problem is exacerbated in the winter, when salt
water gets into the
cracks and crevices. Rally cars, running 600 to 800 W
of lights up front, can
turn into a rusted hulk in a year's time if they
don't take care of this
little problem. We don't have the exact same
problem with our cars, but I
assume we are all going to keep our beasts for
a long time, and you don't
want it to rust out.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 00:15:54
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: surprised how much oil in catch can
> I installed the
Greddy oil catch can and am surprised how much oil and
even
> water was
inside when I emptied it. I'm glad this isn't going into the
>
intake!
Often the pressure rising in the crankcase can have different
causes. Bosst
passes by the rings as well as water that causes bubbles and
finally causing
troubles are the best known ones.
> I plugged
the tube going back into the intake and just have the
> unit venting to
the atmosphere. I know this is not environmentally
> preferred, but
I'm trying to figure out where the oil in my intercooler
line
>
(Drivers side) is coming from.
The bernoulli-effect acts like a vacuum
line and helps to evaporate to
crankcase ventilation system. It doesn't
depend if the catch can is mounted
lower or higher that the heads as in
either case onyl the air shoudl go back
into the intake. But to find out the
cause it's definitely a good idea. Due
to the ammount of oil or water you
already found a leak down test and
compression test (if not already done...
cannot remember) should be done.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 16:29:34
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Battery deals? thanks!
Just wanted to say thanks
to all for all the quick replies and
suggestions.
And thanks
Rich for the tip on relocation as that was actually
on my mind for both
cars.
Gotta love this list! :)
Dave
= 95 Black 3000GT
VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 00:32:25
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel system questions
> The resistor pack on my car is
connected into a plug under the fuse box
and
> then it leads straight
into the wiring harness near the battery. I was
> under the
impression that there is supposed to be a relay somewhere
> under/near the
fusebox that controls current flow to go either through the
> resistor
pack or direct to the fuel pump.
This is the relay plus resistor in one
pack. In fact it is under the MAS.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:49:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Battery deals? thanks!
Many people on lists I
belong to do one common silly thing.
TOO small a guage wire to a trunk
battery.
Use this guys to determine what you need.
ALWAYS spec
out the wire on a worst-case basis, using max amperage off the
alternator
isnt a bad idea.
http://www.skingco.com/portable_power/wiring_size_chart.htmOn
Fri, 11 May 2001, Dave Monarchi wrote:
>
> Just wanted to say
thanks to all for all the quick replies and
> suggestions.
>
> And thanks Rich for the tip on relocation as that was actually
>
on my mind for both cars.
>
> Gotta love this list!
:)
>
>
> Dave
> = 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
> = 87
Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 16:50:22
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Battery deals? thanks!
> Many people on lists I
belong to do one common silly thing.
>
> TOO small a gauge wire to
a trunk battery.
>
> ALWAYS spec out the wire on a worst-case
basis, using max
> amperage off the alternator isnt a bad idea.
>
>
http://www.skingco.com/portable_power/wiring_size_chart.htmSo
do you go off of alternator current or battery (starting) current?
If
alternator, then for a 17ft pos and neg wire from trunk to engine bay,
you
could use 2ga (110A) or 1ga to be safe.
However, if you're
talking about battery current, you could only use 11ft of
*0000* gauge
wire!!!!
Break out the good 'ol EE stuff:
So with 2ga wire,
you're fine for the alternator: assuming the chart is
accurate and you have
34ft (17pos + 17neg), that's 1.19mOhms of resistance.
That gives you a
voltage drop of 0.13V with a 110A alternator (full
capacity), which should be
fine. However, with 600A, that'd drop the
voltage 0.71V, which means
427W is being dissipated in your WIRES. That's a
lot of heat - granted
it's only for a few seconds, but is that safe?
??????...
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5MT) 78,000 mi
Magnacor KV85, M1
10W30, K&N FIPK, Skippy PCV Catch Can,
Tein HA Coilovers
(UPS broke 1st set !?!?! 2nd in transit)
SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17,
17x8.5J 1GTT wheels
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/home.html'94
Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 75,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 19:27:57
-0500
From: "Doug Garrott" <
dgarrott@texas.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Battery deals? thanks!
Thanks, Geoff! I
just pulled a 23' of 000 cable through the car to put
the battery in
the trunk. It looks like I'll be OK. I got a deal @
Tractor
Supply on the 000 - $12 for 23' . It also looks like a #2
ground return
should be able to handle the load.
Doug G
'93
VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Dave Monarchi" <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Cc:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 11, 2001 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Battery deals?
thanks!
> Many people on lists I belong to do one common silly
thing.
>
> TOO small a guage wire to a trunk
battery.
>
> Use this guys to determine what you
need.
>
>
> ALWAYS spec out the wire on a worst-case basis,
using max amperage off the
> alternator isnt a bad idea.
>
>
http://www.skingco.com/portable_power/wiring_size_chart.htm>
>
On Fri, 11 May 2001, Dave Monarchi wrote:
>
> >
> > Just
wanted to say thanks to all for all the quick replies and
> >
suggestions.
> >
> > And thanks Rich for the tip on relocation
as that was actually
> > on my mind for both cars.
> >
>
> Gotta love this list! :)
> >
> >
> >
Dave
> > = 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
> > = 87 Mica Red GTI G60
=
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html>
>
---
> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
>
California, USA
>
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 19:27:39
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
I admit this
diagnosis sounded a little questionable.
Like...they felt the source of the
trouble was somewhere
revolving around the throttle body or related
sensors(?)
of course at a price of $945 for the part (and possibly
too the
TPS and "PCM" should be checked).
But dealing with the dealership was
been somewhat
difficult - they purportedly replaced some 'fuse relays',
but
I dont know which ones - still waiting to find out. I think it
is
another case of them not being experienced enough to
work on our cars,
which is unsettling. Especially when you
pay $253 for a diagnosis that still
leaves you somewhat
in the dark on matters. I see you are from texas -
stay
away from the dodge dealerships in dallas (apparently)!
This is my
second one they had no manual at, but atleast
opted to go and purchase
one and attempt the work. And since
they called the other dealership
dumbasses for not being
able to work on them, perhaps they were more resolute
in
trying themselves. But I wonder how much of the learning was
at a cost
to me (in shop hrs).
Obviously I HAVE to go to Mitsubishi next time.
The only reason
I didnt was they are on the other side of town and these
guys
assured me of their ability to work on it.
I can only hope the
window motor/regulator setup was properly
tested as bad.
I admit
that my car has a lot of symptoms to sift through.
And apparently I may still
be dealing with some of them in the
future still.
- -john
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
What moving parts exist in the throttle body that might wear out? Is
it
> warped so you have a vacuum leak? Has you engine overheated? This
sounds
> bogus. Idle problems in Mitsu cars are often failed ISC
(Idle Servo
> Controllers) and sometimes TPS (throttle position sensors)
but a failing TPS
> has symptoms at rpm other than idle.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: john adams
[SMTP:johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:54
PM
> > To: Team3S
> > Subject: Team3S: Re: Throttle Body and
PCM (and window motors)
> >
> > Actually I should ammend the
last post. They mentioned
> > the 'likelihood' of the PCM being bad,
and in thinking
> > about it realize they mean the ECU. This I had
replaced,
> > with a recond. one from foreign cpu repair. So, if it
> > does happen to be bad I do have a warranty. Unfortuantely,
>
> $200 later, and I ran out of diagnosing time to really be sure.
>
> But apparently they say the throttle body needs replacing,
> >
which causes the high (compensated) idle, and the MFI
> > to click in
and out, sometimes . And of course the window
> > motor
assembly.
> >
> > I noticed the site was down so I couldn't
do a search on
> > throttle body discussion there.
> >
> > thanks again,
> > john
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "john adams"
<
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
>
> To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:21 PM
> > Subject: Throttle Body
and PCM (and window motors)
> >
> >
> > > Hello
there,
> > >
> > > Recently heard from the Dealer
that my throttle body
> > > should be replaced (or possibly rebuilt
with a kit), and
> > > possibly that the PCM is in need of
replacement. The
> > > attached symptoms here are the MFI relay
cutting out
> > > and a high idle. I know, from having it apart,
that its
> > > fairly gummed up. The price for the throttle body
alone
> > > was $925. What's a fair deal on all this, including
pcm,
> > > t. body, or rebuild kit? I also have to replace the
passenger
> > > and driver side window regulator motor assemblies
(qouted
> > > each at $262) - anyone have extras just laying
around...?
> > > These cars a nice, but suck to maintain ;-) (yes
for the poor
> > > soul that is).
> > >
> >
> thanks,
> > > john
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 18:21:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Battery deals? thanks!
Cool..glad I could
help.
Be back Monday guys.
On Fri, 11 May 2001, Doug Garrott
wrote:
> Thanks, Geoff! I just pulled a 23' of 000
cable through the car to put
> the battery in the trunk. It looks
like I'll be OK. I got a deal @ Tractor
> Supply on the 000 - $12
for 23' . It also looks like a #2 ground return
> should be
able to handle the load.
>
> Doug G
> '93 VR4
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Dave Monarchi" <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>
Cc: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 5:49 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Battery deals?
thanks!
>
>
> > Many people on lists I belong to do one
common silly thing.
> >
> > TOO small a guage wire to a trunk
battery.
> >
> > Use this guys to determine what you
need.
> >
> >
> > ALWAYS spec out the wire on a
worst-case basis, using max amperage off the
> > alternator isnt a bad
idea.
> >
> >
http://www.skingco.com/portable_power/wiring_size_chart.htm>
>
> > On Fri, 11 May 2001, Dave Monarchi wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > > Just wanted to say thanks to all for all the quick
replies and
> > > suggestions.
> > >
> > >
And thanks Rich for the tip on relocation as that was actually
> > >
on my mind for both cars.
> > >
> > > Gotta love this
list! :)
> > >
> > >
> > >
Dave
> > > = 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
> > > = 87 Mica Red
GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html>
>
> > ---
> > Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
> >
California, USA
> >
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:21:17
-0400
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How to adjust the steering wheel?
Just mark the tie rods
and the turn buckles with a line of paint or
grease pen,loosen the nut and
turn the turn buckle maybe 1 turn at a
time both sides,till the lines line up
again.Turn them the same way,so
one side is moveing in the other out when you
get it straight(steering
wheel), lock the nuts down.Your toe should stay the
same,and you should
be able to get the steering wheel in
line.Luck,
RICK
George Kuo wrote:
> Hello
All,
>
> My steering wheel is off to the left a bit.. and I
was
> just wondering how I can adjust it? I seen the
>
alignment shop do it somewhere under the car... does
> anyone where
exactly to adjust??
>
> Thanks,
> George
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 20:32:43
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
I admit this
diagnosis sounded a little questionable.
Like...they felt the source of the
trouble was somewhere
revolving around the throttle body and related
parts,
of course at a price of $945 for the unit (also
recommending
checking the TPS and 'PCM' ).
But dealing with
the dealership was been somewhat
difficult - they purportedly replaced some
'fuse relays', but
I dont know which ones - still waiting to find out.
I think it is
another case of them not being experienced enough to
work
on our cars, which is unsettling. Especially when you
pay $253 for a
diagnosis that still leaves you somewhat
in the dark on matters. I see you
are from texas - stay
away from the dodge dealerships in dallas (apparently)!
This is tehe 2nd one which had no manual for the car, but atleast
opted
to go and purchase one and attempt the work. The dealer
is fairly new ~ 3
weeks.
And since they called the other dealership dumbasses for not
being
able to work on them, perhaps they were more resolute in
trying
themselves. But I wonder how much of the learning was
at a cost to me (in
shop hrs).
Obviously I HAVE to go to Mitsubishi next time. The only
reason
I didn't was they are on the other side of town and these
guys
assured me of their ability to work on it.
I can only hope the
other diagnoses are leading me on
the right path.
I admit that my
car had a lot of symptoms to sift through.
Evidently I may still be dealing
with some of them in the
future.
And just to rehash, essentially the
rundown was:
idle and relay symptoms - throttle body (check tps,
pcm)
windows - 'motor/relay assembly tested bad'
wiper int. - 'wiper
switch'
side mirror cntrl - 'mirror switch'
radio - (a fuse changed? -
radio ok, tape and cd still not working)
srs light - ("apparently ties
in with the throttle body" not documented in diagnosis)
headlamp doors - (did
not check, asked to over phone, not documented)
3 fuses noted to be bad, not
listed (i had thought they all checked out ok prior),
not noted whether
replaced though service advisor said they were. No other
replacements/work
done.
regards,
john
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
What moving parts exist in the throttle body that might wear out? Is
it
> warped so you have a vacuum leak? Has you engine overheated? This
sounds
> bogus. Idle problems in Mitsu cars are often failed ISC
(Idle Servo
> Controllers) and sometimes TPS (throttle position sensors)
but a failing TPS
> has symptoms at rpm other than idle.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 20:32:36
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
I admit this
diagnosis sounded a little questionable.
Like...they felt the source of the
trouble was somewhere
revolving around the throttle body and related
parts,
of course at a price of $945 for the unit (also
recommending
checking the TPS and 'PCM' ).
But dealing with
the dealership was been somewhat
difficult - they purportedly replaced some
'fuse relays', but
I dont know which ones - still waiting to find out.
I think it is
another case of them not being experienced enough to
work
on our cars, which is unsettling. Especially when you
pay $253 for a
diagnosis that still leaves you somewhat
in the dark on matters. I see you
are from texas - stay
away from the dodge dealerships in dallas (apparently)!
This is tehe 2nd one which had no manual for the car, but atleast
opted
to go and purchase one and attempt the work. The dealer
is fairly new ~ 3
weeks.
And since they called the other dealership dumbasses for not
being
able to work on them, perhaps they were more resolute in
trying
themselves. But I wonder how much of the learning was
at a cost to me (in
shop hrs).
Obviously I HAVE to go to Mitsubishi next time. The only
reason
I didn't was they are on the other side of town and these
guys
assured me of their ability to work on it.
I can only hope the
other diagnoses are leading me on
the right path.
I admit that my
car had a lot of symptoms to sift through.
Evidently I may still be dealing
with some of them in the
future.
And just to rehash, essentially the
rundown was:
idle and relay symptoms - throttle body (check tps,
pcm)
windows - 'motor/relay assembly tested bad'
wiper int. - 'wiper
switch'
side mirror cntrl - 'mirror switch'
radio - (a fuse changed? -
radio ok, tape and cd still not working)
srs light - ("apparently ties
in with the throttle body" not documented in diagnosis)
headlamp doors - (did
not check, asked to over phone, not documented)
3 fuses noted to be bad, not
listed (i had thought they all checked out ok prior),
not noted whether
replaced though service advisor said they were. No other
replacements/work
done.
regards,
john
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
What moving parts exist in the throttle body that might wear out? Is
it
> warped so you have a vacuum leak? Has you engine overheated? This
sounds
> bogus. Idle problems in Mitsu cars are often failed ISC
(Idle Servo
> Controllers) and sometimes TPS (throttle position sensors)
but a failing TPS
> has symptoms at rpm other than idle.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#490
*********************