team3s
Friday, May 11
2001
Volume 01 : Number
489
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 10 May 2001 10:36:12 -0500
From: "Rick Hawley" <
tt_3kgt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: May 12th Gathering
<html><DIV>Hello!
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>I know that everyone has
been wondering if they would ever hear from me again and I apologize for the
delay. The gathering for May 12th is in full swing. I have set the time for it
to tart as being 1:00pm but if you would like come by early you are more than
welcome to do so. There will be someone here all morning and the sooner you get
here the better.
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The plans so far
for the gathering is:
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>1:00
- BQ </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>4:00 - Pictures of
the group with cars </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>5:00 -
Road Tour through Brown County
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>8:00 - Go Kart Racing at
the local Putt-Putt
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Now
give me a minute to explain this a little better...
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>As
far as the BQ goes I will be covering all of the meat and fixins that we will
need. There will be Hamburgers, Hot Dogs and Chicken that I will be supplying. I
will probably also grab a couple bags of chips and a few 2-liters also. If you
would like it would be appreciated if you would bring along something to the BQ.
Please email me with what you are bringing so that I know what to expect. If you
are not sure what to bring just ask and I have a list of everything! Since the
gathering will be at my house more than likely this is a BYOB! :)
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Pictures:
I would like to get a panoramic picture of everyone with there cars. I was going
to have like a couple of dozens shots made up with my digital and then have the
pics developed into poster size. Then if anyone is interested in purchasing them
I can let you know what the cost is to have them done.
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Road
Tour: Since the gathering is going to be located South of Indianapolis I am
pretty close to Brown County. For those of you that are familiar with this you
will know that there is alot of curves in the way down there. I have a map that
is a little out of the way (long way) to get there that seems to be the best
route for a little driving :)
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Go
Karts: Here locally we have a Putt-Putt course that is 18 hole, Go Kart track
and a fairly good size arcade. I have spent alot of time down there and it is a
good time all the way around. The Go Karts are not kiddy rides and surprising
are alot of fun. Cost is really cheap for everything down here so this is not
something that is going to break the bank.
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>After
this point I am not sure what to plan. For those of you that want to stay over I
can get you names and numbers for the local hotels. I would open up my house to
anyone but I am already going to have a full house with family that will be
coming in for this. For those of you that do stay over I would like to get
together the next morning for breakfast or something of that nature if you are
interested.
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>One
suggestion that has been brought up is that anyone that has parts/ stereo/ etc..
that you are looking to get rid of please bring it along. Who knows there may be
something that you are wanting to get rid of that someone else may want. Buy/
Sell/ Trade!
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>One
other thing to mention is that there may be someone down here from a performance
shop that can give estimates of work if anyone is interested. He will be coming
in from AIM (Advanced Import Motor sports).
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Just
to answer a question that has been asked a few times...Girlfriends and Wives are
definitely invited to attend also! :-) They are the ones that allow the toys!
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>I
hope to hear from everyone soon. I know that this email does not have all of the
people on it so there will have to be multiples sent. Please respond with
questions or RSVP to
Midwest3Sclub@aol.com since I am trying
to get rid of this one. If you will be attending or will not please let me know
either way. I will also be sending out directions this week. I have listed my
phone number at the bottom. Please feel free to use it if you have any
questions!!! I am most always home and always awake up until 1am or so! :)
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Rick
Hawley
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Midwest3Sclub@aol.com
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>317-883-0941</DIV><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="
http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 12:31:09
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: cold air
Oleg,
They are all much the same. Gets cooler
(cold) air from outside the engine compartment and the tubes have some
insulating ability while feeding into the intake system. The main advantage is
they usually have an adpter to use a K&N like low restriction filter plus if
installed right they provide RAM air help.
The low restriction and
ram air do help the throttle response and take a tenth or two off the qtr mile.
Ram air may add 5-10 HP at speeds above 80-90mph. About .15 PSI 'boost'.
If you have a turbo, you're likely done at this point.
If
NA,
Much better is to get one or two marine duct blowers, 4 inch size, $20
each. Install in the wheel well, near front grill openings. Use a switch or wire
into throttle switch if you're crafty.
Use a leaf blower if you really
want some added power, 10-20 HP.
This takes .2-.4 secs off qtr mile and gets
me 2-3 secs faster laps at Willow Springs and
Buttonwillow.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Oleg Malkin [mailto:olegmalkin@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 09, 2001 8:47 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
I have a base 93 Dodge Stealth
all my friends are telling me they
got cold air
intakes
on their accords and avengers. I was thinking
of
getting an intake but I don't know what the difference
is between FIPK
and cold air intakes (in fact, I don't
even know if they make one for our
cars). What about
stillen? How are they
different?
Oleg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 16:01:08
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: surprised how much oil in catch can
I installed the Greddy oil
catch can and am surprised how much oil and even
water was inside when I
emptied it. I'm glad this isn't going into the
intake! I plugged
the tube going back into the intake and just have the
unit venting to the
atmosphere. I know this is not environmentally
preferred, but I'm
trying to figure out where the oil in my intercooler line
(Drivers side) is
coming from.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:05:07
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Gutted pre-cats
I'm gutting my pre-cats and I have a California
car so of course I've been
trying to figure out if this will cause problems
- I've heard rumors that it
will cause the check engine light to come
on.
Well, I assume the check engine light would come on if there were pre
and
post cat o2 sensors. From what I have seen, CA cars (in general,
not
specifically the 3000GT) have an o2 sensor before and after the
pre-cats/main
cat, if you gut the pre-cat/main cat, the o2 sensors send the
same voltage
back to the ecu and it assumes the cat has failed - hence the
check engine
light.
So I crawled under my car today ('97 VR-4), and
looked for these evil o2
sensors, and I could only find the 2 main sensors
(before the pre-cats). No
extra sensors anywhere. If this is the
case there should be NO problem with
gutting my pre-cats.
Am I
missing something here? Was I looking in the wrong place? Is there
another reason the check engine light would come on in a CA car with gutted
pre-cats?
My friend removed the pre-cats on his new WS6 Trans Am - a
few days later he
got the check engine light. It did have o2 sensors
after the pre-cats.
Replacing the pre-cats was the only cure.
BTW - My g-tech says that a VR-4 with ONLY a boost controller set to
1.05kg/cm2 (no other mods) is still faster than a WS6 Trans Am with a CARB
legal cam, headers, cold air intake, no pre-cats, and cat-back
exhaust. Both
0 - 60 and 1/4 mile!
Cyrus
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 18:21:29
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
Hello
there,
Recently heard from the Dealer that my throttle
body
should be replaced (or possibly rebuilt with a kit), and
possibly
that the PCM is in need of replacement. The
attached symptoms here are the
MFI relay cutting out
and a high idle. I know, from having it apart, that
its
fairly gummed up. The price for the throttle body alone
was $925.
What's a fair deal on all this, including pcm,
t. body, or rebuild kit? I
also have to replace the passenger
and driver side window regulator motor
assemblies (qouted
each at $262) - anyone have extras just laying
around...?
These cars a nice, but suck to maintain ;-) (yes for the
poor
soul that is).
thanks,
john
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 18:36:44
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
surprised how much oil in catch can
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@home.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: surprised how much oil in
catch can
>I installed the Greddy oil catch can and am surprised
how much oil and even
>water was inside when I emptied it. I'm glad
this isn't going into the
>intake! I plugged the tube going back
into the intake and just have the
>unit venting to the atmosphere. I
know this is not environmentally
>preferred, but I'm trying to figure out
where the oil in my intercooler
line
>(Drivers side) is coming
from.
>
>Rich
>
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
It's coming
straight out of your crankcase - crankcase ventillation system.
Raising boost
makes it worse - common problem.
You should be able to vent back into
your intake now - after the
catch can. The oil should drop out in the
catch can leaving
only vapors to route back into the intake.
I
installed my Cusco can at a lower level than the intake point
which aids in
oil collection though I see very little.
- - tds
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 18:53:50
-0500
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
Actually I should
ammend the last post. They mentioned
the 'likelihood' of the PCM being bad,
and in thinking
about it realize they mean the ECU. This I had
replaced,
with a recond. one from foreign cpu repair. So, if it
does
happen to be bad I do have a warranty. Unfortuantely,
$200 later, and I ran
out of diagnosing time to really be sure.
But apparently they say the
throttle body needs replacing,
which causes the high (compensated) idle, and
the MFI
to click in and out, sometimes . And of course the window
motor
assembly.
I noticed the site was down so I couldn't do a search
on
throttle body discussion there.
thanks again,
john
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:21 PM
Subject: Throttle Body and PCM (and window
motors)
> Hello there,
>
> Recently heard from
the Dealer that my throttle body
> should be replaced (or possibly rebuilt
with a kit), and
> possibly that the PCM is in need of replacement.
The
> attached symptoms here are the MFI relay cutting out
> and a
high idle. I know, from having it apart, that its
> fairly gummed up. The
price for the throttle body alone
> was $925. What's a fair deal on all
this, including pcm,
> t. body, or rebuild kit? I also have to replace the
passenger
> and driver side window regulator motor assemblies (qouted
> each at $262) - anyone have extras just laying around...?
> These
cars a nice, but suck to maintain ;-) (yes for the poor
> soul that
is).
>
> thanks,
> john
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:52:29
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
John,
You can
get the window regulators for about $160 each, and the throttle body
assembly for about $630 from
http://www.westbroadmitsubishi.comI
believe 3SI gets a discount from them too.
Michael D.
Crose
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:42:54
-0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
advice
I took my car in for leak down test. He told me that cyl # 4 HAD
20%
leak down. He said that it is leaking past the piston and is probably
a
broken ring landing or cracked ring and it would be around a
$1100s.This
is a brand new motor with JE pistons. Also noticed while checking
the
timing that when I rev up the motor the timing light quits and
then
comes back on at idle.Out of curiosity I tried it on all of the
plug
wires only one would keep the timing light blinking as I reved
the
motor. Is this a indication of weak coil packs? How do you
properly
check coil packs?
rushvr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 20:33:13
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gutted pre-cats
I have gutted the precats on my 98 VR4 with
no problems. I too was
concerned about the check engine light, but it
never came on. I do have O2
sensors in front of and behind the
pre-cats. Whether you have them or not,
you should be fine. I've
had them gutted for approx 1 year now.
Michael
98 VR4
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of
NassiriC@aol.com> Sent: Thursday, May
10, 2001 19:05
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Gutted pre-cats
>
>
> I'm gutting my pre-cats
and I have a California car so of
> course I've been
> trying to
figure out if this will cause problems - I've heard
> rumors that
it
> will cause the check engine light to come on.
>
> Well, I
assume the check engine light would come on if there
> were pre
and
> post cat o2 sensors. From what I have seen, CA cars (in
general, not
> specifically the 3000GT) have an o2 sensor before and
after
> the pre-cats/main
> cat, if you gut the pre-cat/main cat,
the o2 sensors send the
> same voltage
> back to the ecu and it
assumes the cat has failed - hence the
> check engine
>
light.
>
> So I crawled under my car today ('97 VR-4), and looked
for
> these evil o2
> sensors, and I could only find the 2 main
sensors (before the
> pre-cats). No
> extra sensors
anywhere. If this is the case there should be
> NO problem
with
> gutting my pre-cats.
>
> Am I missing something
here? Was I looking in the wrong
> place? Is there
>
another reason the check engine light would come on in a CA
> car with
gutted
> pre-cats?
>
> My friend removed the pre-cats on his
new WS6 Trans Am - a
> few days later he
> got the check engine
light. It did have o2 sensors after the
> pre-cats.
>
Replacing the pre-cats was the only cure.
> BTW - My g-tech says that a
VR-4 with ONLY a boost controller set to
> 1.05kg/cm2 (no other mods) is
still faster than a WS6 Trans
> Am with a CARB
> legal cam, headers,
cold air intake, no pre-cats, and
> cat-back exhaust. Both
> 0
- 60 and 1/4 mile!
>
> Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 20:41:56
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: avcr tuning
question.
i thought 1 bar was 14.5
psi.
well if my avcr is set to 1.0 bar why would it spike to 15
causing
studdering due to the sparkplugs blowing out../ or fuel
cut..
also another question i have is this.. when i set it to 1.0 bar,
when i
slam on the gas
i get 14.5-15.0 psi and holds it to red
line.
but when i set it at .95bar then it spikes at 14.5 and then
goes down
to 10. is this normal?
my duty all the way across the
board is 22%... and is on LEARN mode now.
meaning the boost says 1.0 bar, and
then duty is at *** .... the only
reason i set the duty so low was because
anything else above 30 i was
hitting 20psi EASY. and i was getting nervous
about that.
any suggestions let me know.. im re-reading alot of your
posts to me in
the previous days when a few of you were helping me... any
other
pointers would be appreciated .
Thanks.
take
care.
Mark
Mark
1992 Green Stealth
Apexi Indigo AVCR
(@15psi)
Apexi Indigo AFC
Apexi Indigo Boost Guage (30 psi Max)
K&N
Filter
Magnecore Wires
HKS Super Sequential Blow Off Valve
3" Metal
Y-Pipe
RSR 2" spring lowering application
Cusco Rear Strut Bar
Greddy
Turbo Timer
Full ATR Exhaust - ATR Downpipe, Stright Test Pipe (no cat) ,
Full Cat
back dual tips.
Hose Techniques - Engine Bay Super White Hose
Dress up
1 Bad Ass Attitude
(Soon : New Paint Job Restoration, 3000gt
Body Parts / Hybrid , Supra
Fuel Pump )
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 18:30:40
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: 357
Failures????
Hi Guys,
I have been doing my due diligence prior to
purchasing some new turbos
and have my mind set on the 357s from GT Pro, but
i thought you would
find this string of e-mails interesting since Altered has
apparently
seen "several" of these units fail. Now I know they directly
compete
with GTPro and are trying to sell their 18Gs as better turbos with
the
TD05 housing, so there is some bias here. They are
ridiculously
expensive as well. I haven't heard anyone or any other tuner
mention of
"any" failures except them???
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
From: "Mike @ Altered" <
mikem@alteredatmosphere.com>
To:
"Richard" <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Clutch
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:46:06 -0400
We have seen several
fail.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
To: Mike @ Altered
<
mikem@alteredatmosphere.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 27, 2001 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch
> Sorry for the
back and forth e-mails, but I have heard of this
> unreliability issue
before, but get conflicting messages on the 357.
> Have you had many
fail?
>
> "Mike @ Altered" wrote:
> >
> >
Richard,
> >
> > Most of our moded cars here run the
Mitsubishi TD04 15G's (the 357's are
> > similar to the 17G's, which is
too unreliable for the TD04 housing). If
> > you'd like a larger
turbo, we have a TD05 16G or TD05 18G kit availablbe
for
> > the
3000GT that can support 700-800hp.
> >
> > Hope this
helps,
> > Mike
> > 1994 Stealth Twin Turbo 550hp at the
wheels! (no nos!)
> > 1996 3000GT VR4 560hp at the wheels! (no
nos!)
> >
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com>
> 301-330-835
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
> > To: Mike @
Altered <
mikem@alteredatmosphere.com>
>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 9:35 PM
> > Subject: Re:
Clutch
> >
> > > Mike,
> > >
> > >
Which turbos are you using on your cars out of curiosity. 357s?
> >
>
> > > "Mike @ Altered" wrote:
> > > >
>
> > > The RPS stage II does work fairly well, but most people get the
stg.
3
> > > > because it doesn't cost much more, and will
hold alot more power.
> > > >
> > > > Hope this
helps,
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Mike
> >
> > 1994 Stealth Twin Turbo 550hp at the wheels! (no nos!)
> >
> > 1996 3000GT VR4 560hp at the wheels! (no nos!)
> > > >
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com>
> > > 301-330-8835
> > > >
> > > > -----
Original Message -----
> > > > From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
> > > > To:
Mike @ Altered <
mikem@alteredatmosphere.com>
>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 8:12 PM
> > > >
Subject: Re: Clutch
> > > >
> > > > > What
about the stage II RPS that uses the stock disk but stronger
> >
plate?
> > > > > I hear this is a pretty good option as
well?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike @ Altered"
wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
Rich,
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
Hello.. If your looking into a new clutch, we recommend
going
with
> > the
> > > > new
> > > >
> > RPS Stage 3. They changed the design about two months ago,
and
the
> > new
> > > > ones
> > > >
> > have been very reliable. ACT also makes a decent clutch,
but
the
> > > > > > engaugement is a little grabbier
than the RPS. Give us a call
if
> > you
> > > >
have
> > > > > > any questions.
> > > > >
>
> > > > > > Hope this helps,
> > > >
> > Mike
> > > > > > 1994 Stealth Twin Turbo 550hp at
the wheels (no nos!)
> > > > > > 1996 3000GT VR4 560hp at
the wheels (no nos!)
> > > > > >
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com>
> > > > > 301-330-8835
> > > > > >
>
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > >
> > From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
> > > >
> > To: <
mikem@alteredatmosphere.com>
>
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 10:59 PM
> >
> > > > Subject: Clutch
> > > > > >
>
> > > > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > > >
>
> > > > > > > I contacted you in the past enquiring
about your y-pipe, etc.
for
> > > > > > > stealth TT.
I have another question for you if you don't mind.
I
> >
have
> > > > > > > moderate mods with probably about 400
HP (no 4 wheel dyno
around
> > > > here).
> > >
> > > > This has been enough to toast my stock clutch. The slippage
is
so
> > > > > > > extreme that I must replace soon.
I have delayed since I
cannot
> > find
> > > > >
> > reliable clutch information anywhere. The Centerforce dual
>
> friction is
> > > > > > > my clutch of choice right
now for all around driveability,
but I
> > > >
intend
> > > > > > > to break the 500 HP barrier before
I'm done. Others recommend
the
> > ACT
> > > > >
> > which seems a bit impracticle for mostly street driving?
The
RPS
> > > > Carbon
> > > > > > > 6
puck has gotten bad reviews by many users on the 3SI
webring.
> >
What
> > > > is
> > > > > > > the most
reliable yet driveable clutch given the above goals
in
> >
your
> > > > > > > opinion? What about replacement of
the pressure plate? Is this
> > > > critical?
> > >
> > > > I am planning on replacing the TO Bearings as well of
course.
Any
> > help
> > > > > > > would be
appreciated since I am at a loss going forward here.
> > > > >
> >
> > > > > > > Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 21:48:12
-0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dan@3sxperts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
357 Failures????
I find it somewhat unusual that Mike would have seen
"several" failures. We
are dealers for both GT-Pro and AAM and have no bias
either way. I,
personally, have the GT-357's in my car and have been VERY
pleased with
them. I also know several other owners that have them and are
satisfied. I
also heard the same kind of things last year about the ARC-II. I
find it
interesting how AAM can come across so many failures in their
competitors'
products without seeing a representative amount of posts here
and on the 3SI
board.
Just my .02
Dan Mecier
3SX Automotive
Technologies
www.3Sxperts.comPS
- We would be glad to help you out whichever direction you decide to
go.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Richard
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 9:31 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 357 Failures????
Hi Guys,
I have been doing my due
diligence prior to purchasing some new turbos
and have my mind set on the
357s from GT Pro, but i thought you would
find this string of e-mails
interesting since Altered has apparently
seen "several" of these units fail.
Now I know they directly compete
with GTPro and are trying to sell their 18Gs
as better turbos with the
TD05 housing, so there is some bias here. They are
ridiculously
expensive as well. I haven't heard anyone or any other tuner
mention of
"any" failures except them???
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 21:00:52
-0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
RE: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bar For3000GT/StealthwithSTOCK Hood!
> I
am very curious as to the effects of the front bar on the cars handling.
>
My rear bar (cusco) has definitely reduced rear roll to the point
where
now
> the front plows much more noticeable in high speed
turns. The front just
> feels much looser now that the rear strut
bar is in place.
Increased roll stiffness in the rear will decrease
understeer. How do you
explain this?
I would dearly love to install
an upper front strut bar
on my VR-4, but I don't think it is possible
without
major hood modifications. If someone comes up with
one that
really works, I'd gladly pay $500 for
it.
Regards,
ptg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:54:46
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
racing hart c5 weight?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark
Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
To:
Stealth Net <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; Team3S
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 9:50 PM
Subject: racing hart c5
weight?
>anyone know the particular weight of the RH c5's? 18
inches and 19?
>
>is there any special homepage out there that has a
good list of this
>type
>of information on this wheel and others? I
think it would be a good
>reference
>for those looking for new
wheels.
>
>
-
------------------------------------------------------------------
According
to suppliers the C5 has been discontinued.
Maybe someone still has a few
leftover?
I wouldn't wait around too long. (provided it's not too late
already)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 23:56:07
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
Whats the word on power stop cross drilled
rotors?
www.optauto.com has them for
good prices,
but the only time i ever saw "Power Stop Rotors"
was with the
word "crap"..
anyone beg to differ?
Im still trying to find out the
best rotor setup?
Porterfield, Powerstop, brembo, stillen,
just
recently brembo i heard had some problems.
someone i think jamil said he had
them warping on him
already just after his break in period.
ouch!
Thanks mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:52:32
-0400
From: Mark Hindelang <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: racing hart c5 weight?
anyone know the particular weight of the
RH c5's? 18 inches and 19?
is there any special homepage out there that
has a good list of this
type
of information on this wheel and others? I
think it would be a good
reference
for those looking for new
wheels.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 00:14:40
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
At 11:56 PM 5/10/01 -0400, Mark
Hindelang wrote:
>
>Whats the word on power stop cross drilled
rotors?
>www.optauto.com has them for good prices,
>but the only
time i ever saw "Power Stop Rotors"
>was with the word
"crap"..
>
Absolutely. PowerSlot slotted rotors are great for the
street, and they
look good cruising the boulevard. DO NOT, however, use them
to actually
stop the car. When used in anger, they tend to break into two
pieces at the
hub. I have broken two of them myself, and Oskar broke another
(a Stillen,
but the same rotor from the same supplier). In my opinion,
all the crappy
rotors -- Power Slots, Power Stops, Stillens, etc. -- come
from the same
supplier, and they all break. They say their supplier is
Brembo, but that's
a lot of crap.
If you would like to see a photo of
Oskar's broken rotor, go to
http://www.trackguys.com/broken.htmKind
of scary.
>Im still trying to find out the best rotor
setup?
>Porterfield, Powerstop, brembo, stillen,
For our cars, the
very best rotor is a Porterfield cryogenically treated
stock rotor. They do
not warp.We get a 20% discount because of this list.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
w/Big Red calipers and Porterfield rotors.>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:34:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
Dont drill, go bare. Slot if you
feel you -have- to look cool, because
that actually does something (grabs the
pads better, but wears them
slightly quicker).
You really want that
extra mass and surface area on the stock calipers.
On Thu, 10 May 2001,
Mark Hindelang wrote:
>
> Whats the word on power stop cross
drilled rotors?
>
www.optauto.com has
them for good prices,
> but the only time i ever saw "Power Stop
Rotors"
> was with the word "crap"..
>
> anyone beg to
differ?
> Im still trying to find out the best rotor setup?
>
> Porterfield, Powerstop, brembo, stillen,
>
> just recently
brembo i heard had some problems.
> someone i think jamil said he had them
warping on him
> already just after his break in period.
ouch!
>
> Thanks mark
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:36:16
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
> For our cars, the very best rotor
is a Porterfield cryogenically treated
> stock rotor. They do not warp.We
get a 20% discount because of this list.
- ---
But if you buy em from me
you might pay $5 more..but you are supporting
team3s.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 00:36:48
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
At 10:36 PM 5/10/01 -0700, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>> For our cars, the very best rotor is a Porterfield
cryogenically treated
>> stock rotor. They do not warp.We get a 20%
discount because of this list.
>---
>But if you buy em from me you
might pay $5 more..but you are supporting
>team3s.
>
I figgered
that Geoff would chime in if he could match the discount.
Having bought brake
parts from Geoff, I can attest that he actually does
deliver the
stuff.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 05:50:23
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
I have these stock cryo-treated rotors
on my car and under Big Reds and
Pagid Orange race pads and two days of a
driving event they held up well.
Note that ANY rotor will warp if you run
them hard and then stop the car and
let it sit (the pads will warp the rotors
if too hot and not properly cooled
and then clamped to the rotor for many
hours). This is why you do not set
your parking brake after running
hard as this will warp the rear rotors.
It isn't always going to be the
rotor as the operator, pads, and severity of
use will also play a
role.
Just ask the TransAm series guys and I'm sure each of them
(Mustang,
Corvette, Saleen, Mangusta) have had rotors warp (or the British
Touring
Car, World Rally, GT cup cars, etc). Sure they push them hard
but these are
also really expensive rotors so don't think that more expensive
is better.
Take care of them and they will be kind in return (don't wash the
car and
spray cold water on hot rotors for example - if you hear that
creaking sound
then stop spraying it with water <grin>).
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@pobox.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ Big Reds, Autopower rollbar, Sparco Evo race
seat,
Simpson 5-point harnesses, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 1:35 AM
To:
Mark Hindelang
Cc: Stealth Net; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: powerstop.
good bad?
Dont drill, go bare. Slot if you feel you -have- to look
cool, because
that actually does something (grabs the pads better, but wears
them
slightly quicker).
You really want that extra mass and surface
area on the stock calipers.
On Thu, 10 May 2001, Mark Hindelang
wrote:
>
> just recently brembo i heard had some
problems.
> someone i think jamil said he had them warping on him
>
already just after his break in period. ouch!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:12:04
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
What moving
parts exist in the throttle body that might wear out? Is
it
warped so you have a vacuum leak? Has you engine overheated? This
sounds
bogus. Idle problems in Mitsu cars are often failed ISC (Idle
Servo
Controllers) and sometimes TPS (throttle position sensors) but a
failing TPS
has symptoms at rpm other than idle.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: john adams [SMTP:johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:54 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
>
> Actually I should
ammend the last post. They mentioned
> the 'likelihood' of the PCM being
bad, and in thinking
> about it realize they mean the ECU. This I had
replaced,
> with a recond. one from foreign cpu repair. So, if it
>
does happen to be bad I do have a warranty. Unfortuantely,
> $200 later,
and I ran out of diagnosing time to really be sure.
> But apparently they
say the throttle body needs replacing,
> which causes the high
(compensated) idle, and the MFI
> to click in and out, sometimes . And of
course the window
> motor assembly.
>
> I noticed the site
was down so I couldn't do a search on
> throttle body discussion
there.
>
> thanks again,
> john
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:21 PM
> Subject: Throttle Body and PCM (and
window motors)
>
>
> > Hello there,
> >
>
> Recently heard from the Dealer that my throttle body
> >
should be replaced (or possibly rebuilt with a kit), and
> > possibly
that the PCM is in need of replacement. The
> > attached symptoms here
are the MFI relay cutting out
> > and a high idle. I know, from having
it apart, that its
> > fairly gummed up. The price for the throttle
body alone
> > was $925. What's a fair deal on all this, including
pcm,
> > t. body, or rebuild kit? I also have to replace the
passenger
> > and driver side window regulator motor assemblies (qouted
> > each at $262) - anyone have extras just laying around...?
>
> These cars a nice, but suck to maintain ;-) (yes for the poor
> >
soul that is).
> >
> > thanks,
> >
john
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:18:34
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Supra fuel pump
Just wondering where I can get a Supra fuel pump
besides from a dealer since
they want around $250. Please reply
privately.
TIA,
Francis Morice
Retek Information
Systems
Internal Help Desk
francis_morice@retek.com612-632-8306
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 06:41:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
Id love to match 20% on rotors..but
cant.
I only get $5, and sometimes $10 off retail on rotors.
The
pads..no problem, but I -do- have to add shipping and tax, which is
where I
come out slightly higher.
So far support of team3s.com had upgraded us to
a FULL frame relay T1 here
with about 500Gb of storage.
Now we just
gotta keep the lights on, 48% electricity rate increase next
month.
On
Fri, 11 May 2001, Merritt wrote:
> At 10:36 PM 5/10/01 -0700, Geoff
Mohler wrote:
> >> For our cars, the very best rotor is a
Porterfield cryogenically treated
> >> stock rotor. They do not
warp.We get a 20% discount because of this list.
> >---
> >But
if you buy em from me you might pay $5 more..but you are supporting
>
>team3s.
> >
> I figgered that Geoff would chime in if he
could match the discount.
> Having bought brake parts from Geoff, I can
attest that he actually does
> deliver the stuff.
>
>
Rich/old poop
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 06:38:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: racing hart c5 weight?
>> is there any special homepage
out there that has
>> a good list of this type of information on
this
>> wheel and others?
http://home.earthlink.net/~cvlocas/wheels.htmlThat
link and many, many more are available on the Garage Page at my
web site. I
didn't see the C5 listed there, however.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mark Hindelang" <
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>
To:
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@starnet.net>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 8:52 PM
Subject: Team3S: racing hart c5
weight?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 06:54:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
>> They say their supplier is
Brembo, but that's a lot of crap.
I called Autospecialty a week or so
ago and asked them who makes
their rotors, the PowerStop line. The fellow
said that Brembo does
indeed make many of there "raw castings". However, the
raw castings
that Autospecialty machines into rotors for 3000GT/Stealth and
many
"Asian makes" are made by a factory in Taiwan. He quickly added
that
the factory makes a very nice quality casting.
I am guessing
that the PowerStop rotors must be half way decent else
why would Porterfield
sell them? Yes, Porterfield rotors for our cars
are PowerStop rotors. Look at
the Porterfield web site and the part
numbers for our rotors and go look at a
PowerStop dealer's site and
see the same part numbers again. It kind of makes
me chuckle when I
see someone praise Porterfield then in the same sentence
bad mouth
PowerStop. :)
I am not advocating PowerStop or any other
make for that matter. This
is just information. I do happen to have PowerStop
rotors on my car
(with MetalMatrix pads) and have zero problems with them. I
do not
race however, just drive sanely on the street. More info on rotors
is
at my web page below, including ordering info for Porterfield
parts
from Speedtoys.com.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
hindelan@pilot.msu.edu>;
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@starnet.net>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: powerstop. good
bad?
At 11:56 PM 5/10/01 -0400, Mark Hindelang
wrote:
>
>Whats the word on power stop cross drilled
rotors?
>www.optauto.com has them for good prices,
>but the only
time i ever saw "Power Stop Rotors"
>was with the word
"crap"..
>
Absolutely. PowerSlot slotted rotors are great for the
street, and
they look good cruising the boulevard. DO NOT, however, use them
to
actually stop the car. When used in anger, they tend to break into
two
pieces at the hub. I have broken two of them myself, and Oskar
broke another
(a Stillen, but the same rotor from the same supplier).
In my opinion,
all the crappy rotors -- Power Slots, Power Stops,
Stillens, etc. -- come
from the same supplier, and they all break.
They say their supplier is
Brembo, but that's a lot of crap.
If you would like to see a photo of
Oskar's broken rotor, go to
http://www.trackguys.com/broken.htmKind
of scary.
>Im still trying to find out the best rotor
setup?
>Porterfield, Powerstop, brembo, stillen,
For our cars, the
very best rotor is a Porterfield cryogenically
treated stock rotor. They do
not warp.We get a 20% discount because
of this list.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4 w/Big Red calipers and Porterfield rotors.>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 07:08:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
>> What
moving parts exist in the throttle body
>> that might wear
out?
The only parts I can think of in/on the TB that can be
replaced
(besides nuts and bolts, etc.) are the following.
1) fast idle
air valve (FIAV),
2) ISC servo (called the IAC servo by Mitsu and ISC servo
by Dodge,
same part, idle speed control or idle air control),
3) throttle
position sensor / idle position switch (same part with
two functions,
TPS/IPS),
4) throttle plate, and
5) SAS (speed adjusting screw) and its
o-ring (a #5 if I remember
correctly).
The air-bypass passages can get
gunked up. They can be cleaned
(probably) but not replaced.
A diagram
showing some of these can be seen on page 14-15 in the
Stealth Technical
Information Manual, available exclusively at my web
site.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-stim.htmMore
info can be found in the "DSM" tech manual (Vinny's manuals on
CD) and the
Service Manuals.
Items 2 through 5 above can be purchased I believe from
dealers. It
is Item 1, FIAV, that I think is non-serviceable, but has anyone
here
ever heard of this part going bad? The position of the valve
is
controlled by a wax pellet that changes size depending on the
coolant
temp that circulates through the FIAV. It's sole purpose is
to
increase idle speed when coolant temp is below 122ºF. If the
TB-related
problems are occurring when the car is warm or during
acceleration, I would
guess the FIAV is not the cause. All other
parts can be tested (see the
service manuals) and replaced or cleaned
by the owner.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'john adams'" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 11, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Throttle Body and PCM (and
window motors)
<snip>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: john adams [SMTP:johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 6:54 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Re: Throttle Body and PCM (and window motors)
<snip>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 09:11:56
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
>
>I am guessing that the
PowerStop rotors must be half way decent else
>why would Porterfield sell
them? Yes, Porterfield rotors for our cars
>are PowerStop rotors. Look at
the Porterfield web site and the part
>numbers for our rotors and go look
at a PowerStop dealer's site and
>see the same part numbers again. It kind
of makes me chuckle when I
>see someone praise Porterfield then in the
same sentence bad mouth
>PowerStop. :)
>
I doubt that Porterfield
buys PowerStop rotors. The same part number
doesn't mean anything. As I
understand it, Porterfield buys Mitsubishi
rotors and heat treats them. But I
could be wrong. I have been wrong
before. I've compared the Porterfields to
my stock rotors and they look
identical. The only way I can tell them apart
is to whack them with a
hammer, because the cyro treatment gives them a
different clang.
I don't really know anything about PowerStop rotors. My
experience has been
breaking PowerSlots while Oskar broke a Stillen. There is
a remote
possibility that PowerStops are different, but I doubt it. There are
not
that many sources of rotor castings in the world. Again, as I
understand
it, there are only stock rotors, Brembos and el cheapos.
No
one on this list who races open track has advocated PowerStops. Until
they
do, I'll continue to consider them second rate. Especially if they
cost less
than Porterfields.
\
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 07:34:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
>> The same part number
doesn't mean anything.
Really?
What are the odds of two
manufacturers both identifying their rotors
with the same part number of say
"JBR 785" (front rotors for 2nd-gen
VR4s), not once but for all years, all
models, front or rear.
Why would they do that deliberately?
How
could it happen randomly?
Hey, I made the call to Autospecialty. Someone
else can call
Porterfield and ask them why their part numbers for
3000GT/Stealth
rotors are exactly the same, all years, all models, front or
rear, as
PowerStop rotors.
:)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 11, 2001 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: powerstop. good
bad?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 07:41:30
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: powerstop. good bad?
>> as I understand it, there are
only
>> stock rotors, Brembos and el cheapos.
Uh..., you forgot
Alcon Components and AP Racing. Are Bremsa made by
Brembo? I'm sure there are
a few others if you want to go custom and
not "off the
shelf".
:)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 11, 2001 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: powerstop. good
bad?
*** Info:
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