team3s
Thursday, May 10
2001
Volume 01 : Number
488
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 9 May 2001 11:04:35 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: leaking lubricant
I have a similar leak in my '93 3K
base.
It was power steering fluid.
Victor
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 12:02
PM
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: leaking lubricant
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09,
2001 10:47 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: leaking lubricant
> It is a golden, amber color on the car
in drip form, but
> nearly clear on my finger tip. It is all over
the
> front of the transmission, and has blown across the
>
bottom.
Sounds like tranny fluid to me. There's a little rubber
breather on top of
the tranny - see if the fluid trail leads you there.
Most likely that's
your culprit. My car does it also after high-speed
runs. I guess the gears
just whip around enough tranny fluid that some
of it makes its way through
the breather. I've considered it "normal"
for my car and haven't personally
found a fix.
> It tastes horrible
(yes, I utilize all my senses
> to try to discover what something
is.)
Gack! Not sure how tasting it helps - I'd think most all the
fluids would
taste awful. Much easier (and safer) to just follow the
trail.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 11:02:01
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: leaking lubricant
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09,
2001 10:47 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: leaking lubricant
> It is a golden, amber color on the
car in drip form, but
> nearly clear on my finger tip. It is all over
the
> front of the transmission, and has blown across the
>
bottom.
Sounds like tranny fluid to me. There's a little rubber
breather on top of
the tranny - see if the fluid trail leads you there.
Most likely that's
your culprit. My car does it also after high-speed
runs. I guess the gears
just whip around enough tranny fluid that some
of it makes its way through
the breather. I've considered it "normal"
for my car and haven't personally
found a fix.
> It tastes horrible
(yes, I utilize all my senses
> to try to discover what something
is.)
Gack! Not sure how tasting it helps - I'd think most all the
fluids would
taste awful. Much easier (and safer) to just follow the
trail.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 10:23:33
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
> Add about 3k
to the Hennessey model (parts and scarcity), and that brings
> the other
to about 18k retail.
[Willis, Charles E.] In my limited experience, the
presence of
modifications does not (should not) increase the monetary value
of these
cars. The buyer may not know the condition of the mods, the
buyer may not
desire these mods enough to go out and do them himself, and the
mods may be
a liability in terms of any extended service warranty that the
buyer may
want, especially on a low mileage car.
> The following
is my opinion:
> If you are looking for Pearl Yellow, it
was a specially requested
> color,
> so add about $1k to each (that
is, if you are explicitly looking for pearl
>
>
yellow).
[Willis, Charles E.] Conversely, the color being what the color
is,
you may want to deduct the cost of a visit to Earl Scheib!
>
Also, low mileage is really underrated in terms of value, in my opinion
>
(very hard to find mileage this low). Add another $1500 to
each.
[Willis, Charles E.]
Substantiated low mileage is indeed a
good thing. You should ask
WHY the mileage is so low - the chassis may
have spent a good deal of time
sitting in a wrecking yard. Age is STILL
a factor. Non-metallic materials
(belts, hoses, and tires) continue to
age (oxidize and embrittle) even when
properly garaged.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 11:24:39
EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: SS
lines
I would like a set for my 1991 Stealth RT 24 Valve non-turbo if
they are
available
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:47:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SS lines
They are, please send Email to the listed address
everyone..please. I
cant catch all the requests that dont funnel to the
right place the right
way.
Thanks!
Merisa: Gotcha!
Email me personally...your shipping address with a
subject as [SS lines] and
I will get you the data.
On Wed, 9 May 2001
MerisaPDX@aol.com wrote:
> I would
like a set for my 1991 Stealth RT 24 Valve non-turbo if they are
>
available
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:54:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SS Final Final price
$144+shipping/taxes/beer
Just nailed
it down completely.
Those of you with requests in..will get replies and
instructions.
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:48:58
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Coolant Flush?
Hi everyone, Summer is finally upon us here in the
northeast and I'd like to
flush my coolant so I won't have any over-heating
problems. I bought
Prestone Coolant flush and 3 gallons of coolant for
my 92RT/TT. The problem
is I can't find the drain for the coolant in
the radiator. Also, I don't
want to just drain the coolant, but flush
it out. I use presurized water to
force all the coolant out of the
engine, right? After that how do I amke
sure that I got most of the
water out and replaced it with coolant? I have
done it to a small
block 350, but japanese engines have too many hoses for me
to see what hose
would be the optimal place to drain.flush through. =) I'm
sure I
could figure it out if stared at it for a while, but I don't want to
mess
anything up. Also, what is the exact amount of coolant that goes in our
cars? I'm sure it's on Jeff's website somewhere, but I didn't see
it.
Thanks,
Paul
92RT
92RT/TT
3SI#1127
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 10:03:06
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Coolant Flush?
Yer first mistake was buying
coolant.
Get distilled water and two bottles of redline water
wetter. Call it done
till late fall, then drain a couple quarts and add
antifreeze.
Run the drill again next spring (since you should flush once
a year
anyway)
On Wed, 9 May 2001
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
> Hi everyone, Summer is finally upon us here in the northeast
and I'd like to
> flush my coolant so I won't have any over-heating
problems. I bought
> Prestone Coolant flush and 3 gallons of
coolant for my 92RT/TT. The problem
> is I can't find the drain for
the coolant in the radiator. Also, I don't
> want to just drain the
coolant, but flush it out. I use presurized water to
> force all
the coolant out of the engine, right? After that how do I amke
>
sure that I got most of the water out and replaced it with coolant? I have
> done it to a small block 350, but japanese engines have too many hoses
for me
> to see what hose would be the optimal place to drain.flush
through. =) I'm
> sure I could figure it out if stared at it
for a while, but I don't want to
> mess anything up. Also, what is
the exact amount of coolant that goes in our
> cars? I'm sure it's
on Jeff's website somewhere, but I didn't see it.
> Thanks,
>
Paul
> 92RT
> 92RT/TT
> 3SI#1127
- ---
Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:53:13
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Coolant Flush?
Ok, so I bought the coolant for my
girlfriend. =)
How do I go about getting all of the coolant out
of my engine?
> Yer first mistake was buying coolant.
>
> Get distilled water and two bottles of redline water
wetter. Call it done
> till late fall, then drain a couple
quarts and add antifreeze.
>
> Run the drill again next
spring (since you should flush once a year
>
anyway)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 11:56:39
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EFI Systems PMS testers wanted
The original message was posted to
the Talon Digest. Anyone here want to
help? This could be a good
benefit for our cars to get the PMS working on
3/S. I'd do it, but
Minnesota is a LONG way from South Carolina.
- --------
Subject:
3000gt test car
From: EFI Systems Inc Doug W <
efidoug@mindspring.com>
Date:
8 May 2001 08:47:04
Message-ID: <#38>
[Next] [Prev] [Top] [Post
Reply] [Bibliography]
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Its
been a long time since I posted it seems like it's a whole new group
of
racers. I am looking for any 3000gt owners interested in testing the new
PMS
I have finally got back on this project and completed the
first
preproduction run but I need some beta testers hopfully in
the
Anderson/Clemson SC area or willing to take a 2hr drive from Atl.
Please
contact me via Email at
efidoug@mindspring.com
Thanks for another great
year in PMS sales they just keep getting better and
thanks for the bandwidth
Todd you done yourself proud when you birthed this
best.
Doug W
EFI Systems Inc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 12:02:15
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: PMS testing!
Just got this off the DSM/Talon
Digest,
___________________
Subject: 3000gt test
car
From: EFI Systems Inc Doug W <
efidoug@mindspring.com>
Date:
8 May 2001 08:47:04
Message-ID: <#38>
[Next] [Prev] [Top] [Post
Reply] [Bibliography]
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----------
Its been a long time since I posted it seems like it's a whole
new
group of
racers. I am looking for any 3000gt owners interested in
testing the
new PMS
I have finally got back on this project and completed
the first
preproduction run but I need some beta testers hopfully in
the
Anderson/Clemson SC area or willing to take a 2hr drive from
Atl.
Please
contact me via Email at
efidoug@mindspring.com
Thanks for another
great
year in PMS sales they just keep getting better
and thanks for the
bandwidth
Todd you done yourself proud when you birthed
this best.
Doug W
EFI Systems Inc
____________________
The
PMS system is somewhere between a full blown aftermarket ECU and a
piggy back
computer (VPC/AFC). It has datalogging, and a decent track
record for a
number of DSM cars. People say it's finicky, and hard to
program, but it
didn't look too hard the last time I saw it, and
supposedly, it has better
software/interface now! Check it out!
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 10:09:52
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Coolant Flush?
Drain it, flush it.
On Wed, 9 May 2001
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
> Ok, so I bought the coolant for my girlfriend. =)
> How do I go about getting all of the coolant out of my engine?
>
> > Yer first mistake was buying coolant.
> >
>
> Get distilled water and two bottles of redline water wetter.
Call it done
> > till late fall, then drain a couple quarts and
add antifreeze.
> >
> > Run the drill again next
spring (since you should flush once a year
> > anyway)
-
---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:08:08
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
I bought it back
in March 2001. It was from a dealer in PR. The owner was
selling the car for
a friend. They were asking $26K. I offered $24K.
Victor
'93 3K GT
Black
'96 VR-4 Pearl White
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09,
2001 11:16 AM
To: 'Berrios, Victor L'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994
Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
When did you buy it?
I paid
$20,500 for my '94 VR4 coupe four years ago with 34,000 miles on it.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Berrios, Victor L
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001
11:00 AM
> To:
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
>
>
> FYI
> I paid $24K for my '96 VR-4 Pearl White, 14K
miles.
>
> R/ Victor
> ,93 3K GT Black
> '96 VR-4 Pearl
White
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dg B
[mailto:dbretton@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 10:59
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
> >All,
>
>Received an email today from a Mr. Mike Swinney from Winners Dodge
in
> >Woodhaven, Michigan. Both of them are 1994 Dodge Stealth
> R/T Twin Turbo's
> >with the Pearl Yellow paint job, totally
loaded with
> Sunroof, Infinity
> >Sound
> >and Chrome
Wheels. One of them has 15,000 miles and is
> unmodified, they
> >are
> >asking $21,995.00 for it. The other one
hasn't been titled,
> has 8,000
> >miles
> >on it and
has been upgraded with Hennessey Turbo's (never
> heard of that
>
>modification but I have asked for specifics/clarification),
> they
are asking
> >$25,000 for that one.
>
> Okay. I
thought that I would lend a little more info on this one.
> I looked up
the "true" value on these puppies, referencing
> the NADA (little
> orange book) value (Kelley's is written by/for car
dealers).
>
Trade-in Retail
> 1994 Stealth Henn TT, 8k
miles: 13,125
15,530
> 1994 Stealth TT, 15k
miles:
13,125 15,530
>
> Add about 3k to the
Hennessey model (parts and scarcity), and
> that brings
> the
other to about 18k retail.
>
> The following is my
opinion:
> If you are looking for Pearl Yellow, it was a
specially
> requested color,
> so add about $1k to each (that is,
if you are explicitly
> looking for pearl
> yellow).
> Also,
low mileage is really underrated in terms of value, in
> my opinion
> (very hard to find mileage this low). Add another $1500 to
each.
>
> This would bring the retail value to about $20,000 and
$17,000,
> respectively.
> Of course, it is not a good "deal"
unless you can get the car
> for somewhere
> between NADA trade-in
and NADA retail.
> If anyone is seriously considering these cars, your
goal
> should be to pay
> about $17k, and $15k,
respectively.
>
> I hope this helps!
>
>
Regards,
> Dennis Bretton
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 10:32:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SS lines
Please send $175 to
gemohler@speedtoys.com via paypal, and
the order will
place within the hour of receipt, and ship within 2
days.
You'll even get your own shiny UPS van to deliver it!
On
Wed, 9 May 2001
MerisaPDX@aol.com
wrote:
> I would like a set for my 1991 Stealth RT 24 Valve non-turbo
if they are
> available
- ---
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedtoys.com>
California, USA
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 12:24:00
-0500
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
I purchased my fully
loaded Firestorm Red 94' TT privately (with some help from a dealership) last
November for $17k. She had 16,225 miles on her when I drove it
away.
FWIW
Craig
94' TT Red
>>> "Berrios,
Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
05/09/01 01:08PM >>>
I bought it back in March 2001. It was from a
dealer in PR. The owner was
selling the car for a friend. They were asking
$26K. I offered $24K.
Victor
'93 3K GT Black
'96 VR-4 Pearl
White
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 11:16
AM
To: 'Berrios, Victor L'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's
TT (Pearl Yellow)
When did you buy it?
I paid $20,500 for my
'94 VR4 coupe four years ago with 34,000 miles on it.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Berrios, Victor L [mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
> Sent:
Wednesday, May 09, 2001 11:00 AM
> To:
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST' >
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
>
>
> FYI
> I paid $24K for my '96 VR-4 Pearl White, 14K
miles.
>
> R/ Victor
> ,93 3K GT Black
> '96 VR-4 Pearl
White
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dg B
[mailto:dbretton@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 10:59
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st >
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 Deals on 1994 Stealth's TT (Pearl Yellow)
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
> >All,
>
>Received an email today from a Mr. Mike Swinney from Winners Dodge
in
> >Woodhaven, Michigan. Both of them are 1994 Dodge Stealth
> R/T Twin Turbo's
> >with the Pearl Yellow paint job, totally
loaded with
> Sunroof, Infinity
> >Sound
> >and Chrome
Wheels. One of them has 15,000 miles and is
> unmodified, they
> >are
> >asking $21,995.00 for it. The other one
hasn't been titled,
> has 8,000
> >miles
> >on it and
has been upgraded with Hennessey Turbo's (never
> heard of that
>
>modification but I have asked for specifics/clarification),
> they
are asking
> >$25,000 for that one.
>
> Okay. I
thought that I would lend a little more info on this one.
> I looked up
the "true" value on these puppies, referencing
> the NADA (little
> orange book) value (Kelley's is written by/for car
dealers).
>
Trade-in Retail
> 1994 Stealth Henn TT, 8k
miles: 13,125
15,530
> 1994 Stealth TT, 15k
miles:
13,125 15,530
>
> Add about 3k to the
Hennessey model (parts and scarcity), and
> that brings
> the
other to about 18k retail.
>
> The following is my
opinion:
> If you are looking for Pearl Yellow, it was a
specially
> requested color,
> so add about $1k to each (that is,
if you are explicitly
> looking for pearl
> yellow).
> Also,
low mileage is really underrated in terms of value, in
> my opinion
> (very hard to find mileage this low). Add another $1500 to
each.
>
> This would bring the retail value to about $20,000 and
$17,000,
> respectively.
> Of course, it is not a good "deal"
unless you can get the car
> for somewhere
> between NADA trade-in
and NADA retail.
> If anyone is seriously considering these cars, your
goal
> should be to pay
> about $17k, and $15k,
respectively.
>
> I hope this helps!
>
>
Regards,
> Dennis Bretton
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:51:46
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel system questions
I'm looking for the "fuel relay II" on my
car. Its the one that switches
between full voltage to the fuel pump or
reduced voltage via a resistor
located under the fusebox in the engine
compartment. The resistor box is an
aluminum-looking box with some
heatsink ridges on it and two wires coming
out going to a connector.
Does anyone have a CA emissions '95 VR4 that can
look and see if there's a
relay connected to that aluminum resistor pack?
The resistor pack on my
car is connected into a plug under the fuse box and
then it leads straight
into the wiring harness near the battery. I was
under the impression
that there is supposed to be a relay somewhere
under/near the fusebox that
controls current flow to go either through the
resistor pack or direct to the
fuel pump.
I'm just trying to figure out if it is supposed to be under
the hood
somewhere like on earlier years (and '95 non-CA) or if it got
moved
somewhere else on the Spyder, or if the voltage now always goes through
the
resistor pack on its way to the fuel pump (doesn't make sense, but as far
as
I can tell this is how my car is configured).
Diagrams are found on
manual pages 13A-204 in the 3000GT service manual.
Thanks for any
info!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 11:59:46
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EFI Systems PMS testers wanted
By the way, the PMS would
supply datalogging capabilities to any year of
3/S. A benefit worth its
cost even if there was no performance increase for
those of us stuck with the
'94-95 ECU's.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:38:16
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
It's not that
hard.
1. Pull the wheel, caliper and rotor off.
2. Take
off the wheel hub nut
3. You should be able to push the axle in enough
to get a wrench around the
4 bolts for the hub assembly.
4. Loosen
the 4 bolts until they are almost all the way out.
5. I then put a gear
puller on the hub assembly, but not with enough force
to pull the hub
apart.
6. Tap on the 4 bolts with a hammer and the hub assembly should
pop out.
7. Then lugs are easy to replace with the hub assembly
off.
Step number 5, can be done different ways, I didn't want to risk
destroying
the hub assembly since my car has spent a winter in the north and
had quite
a bit of corrosion.
Michael
98 VR4
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Merritt
> Sent:
Tuesday, May 08, 2001 17:33
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
>
>
> We (me
and the boys at Denny's Mufflers) put the 1/2 in.
> wheel spacers
on
> my 94 VR4 today. I'd like to tell you it was real easy, but
>
it wasn't. I
> know that it CAN be done simply, but we couldn't, for two
reasons:
>
> 1. The left side halfshaft had a cut dustcover/sleeve,
so we
> had to take
> the entire axle out to replace the
cover.
> 2. The right side wheel bearing came apart, so although
it
> was then easy to
> pull the hub and knock out the old lugs,
this is not a recommended
> solution. I'll be getting the wheel bearing
repaired at the
> dealer under
> warranty. Parts had to be ordered,
you see.
>
> It LOOKS like you can do this:
> 1. Remove
caliper and rotor
> 2. Remove wheel bearing nut.
> 3. Remove four
bolts on the back of the wheel hub.
> 4. Knock back the axle with a
hammer until the wheel hub comes loose.
> 5. Manipulate the wheel hub so
you can drive out the stock
> wheel studs and
> insert the longer
studs.
> 6. Reassemble.
>
> As I said, we did not do this
because of the problems
> encountered. This is
> the way I've seen
stock studs replaced on my car before,
> although I am not
>
positive that you can do this with the longer studs. Does anyone
know?
>
> In any case, both spacers are in. I do not recommend doing
this job
> yourself unless you have an entire weekend to devote to
it,
> or you have had
> your front axles/hubs out before and know
how to do all this stuff.
> However, it is a relatively simple job for a
brake shop, who
> does this kind
> of work every
day.
>
> (Example: when Denny's mechanic <Perry, the ace
front end
> guy> got the
> axle out, he insisted on taking the
constant velocity joint
> apart so he
> could clean and regrease it.
"Mighta got some dirt in there
> from the torn
> dust cover," he
says. "How does it come off the axle?," I asked, all
> worried,
because all I could see was ball bearings surrounded
> by grease.
>
"Ah, ya just tap it with a hammer," says Perry. A light tap,
> and out
it
> came, slick as a whistle. If it was me, I'd still be on
the
> net asking you
> guys how to take the sucka
apart.)
>
> GOOD NEWS MAYBE!!
> For all of you who are
considering an upgrade to Brad's Big
> Red kit on a
> 1st gen car
(91-93), you MAY NOT need to buy 94 and up wheels! Please
> check
with Brad, of course, but those spacers put a full half inch of
> distance
between the inside of the wheel spokes and the
> Porsche caliper.
It
> MAY BE that you can install spacers instead of buying new
>
wheels. At $100
> plus labor, that's a whole lot less money than four
94+
> wheels and a set of
> tires. I don't have a 1st gen, so
I don't know where the
> clearance problem
> occurs, but I recall
someone saying that the Big Reds ALMOST
> fit a 1st gen,
> but have
only a credit card width of clearance. If so, maybe
> spacers are
>
the answer.
>
> It should be easy enough to check: Anyone that has a
2nd gen car with
> spacers could attempt to mount 1st gen wheels. If the
spacers
> allow 1st gen
> wheels to fit over a 94+ brake caliper,
they should easily
> fit over the Big
> Reds. If there is anyone in
Iowa who wants to try it, give me
> a shout.
>
> In the
meantime, PLEASE DO NOT ASSUME SPACERS WILL WORK UNTIL BRAD OR
> SOMEONE
ELSE ON THE LIST VERIFIES IT.
>
> OFF TOPIC
> I wandered next
door to the cycle shop, because I saw two
> Yamaha 650s being
>
worked on (these are based on the old Triumph 650cc
> Bonneville design,
and
> have always been one of my favorite bikes). One had a 1985
>
license plate. I
> asked the mechanic what the deal was, and he said that
people
> are getting
> motorcycles out of storage, where they have
been for the past 15 years
> (like this one), because of high gas
prices. He has a very
> brisk business
> now in starting up old
motorcycles and putting them back on
> the road. A
> sign of the
times, eh?
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
> Big Reds, 1/2 in.
spacers, Porterfield stock rotors.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:11:27
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
add step zero - remove the
wheel, remove the cotter pin holding the wheel
hub nut, imobilize the wheel
either by having assistant stand on the brakes
or reinstalling the wheel and
lowering the weight of the car onto the wheel,
then loosen the wheel hub nut
which requires application of some force.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Michael Dorsey [SMTP:mdorsey@mindspring.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 5:38 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
>
> It's not
that hard.
>
> 1. Pull the wheel, caliper and rotor
off.
> 2. Take off the wheel hub nut
> 3. You should be
able to push the axle in enough to get a wrench around
> the
> 4
bolts for the hub assembly.
> 4. Loosen the 4 bolts until they are
almost all the way out.
> 5. I then put a gear puller on the hub
assembly, but not with enough
> force
> to pull the hub
apart.
> 6. Tap on the 4 bolts with a hammer and the hub assembly
should pop out.
> 7. Then lugs are easy to replace with the hub
assembly off.
>
> Step number 5, can be done different ways, I
didn't want to risk
> destroying
> the hub assembly since my car has
spent a winter in the north and had
> quite
> a bit of
corrosion.
>
> Michael
> 98 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:11:05
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
You're correct.
Don't
forget the cotter pin. An impact wrench will most likely be needed
to
remove the wheel hub nut. I broke a 3/4 inch breaker bar trying to
remove
one of them.
Michael
98 VR4
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09,
2001 19:11
> To: 'Michael Dorsey';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
>
>
> add
step zero - remove the wheel, remove the cotter pin
> holding the
wheel
> hub nut, imobilize the wheel either by having assistant
stand
> on the brakes
> or reinstalling the wheel and lowering the
weight of the car
> onto the wheel,
> then loosen the wheel hub nut
which requires application of
> some force.
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael Dorsey
[SMTP:mdorsey@mindspring.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 5:38
PM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spacers on / Hope for 1st gens
> >
> >
It's not that hard.
> >
> > 1. Pull the wheel, caliper
and rotor off.
> > 2. Take off the wheel hub nut
> >
3. You should be able to push the axle in enough to get a
> wrench
around
> > the
> > 4 bolts for the hub assembly.
> >
4. Loosen the 4 bolts until they are almost all the way out.
> >
5. I then put a gear puller on the hub assembly, but not
> with
enough
> > force
> > to pull the hub apart.
> >
6. Tap on the 4 bolts with a hammer and the hub assembly
> should
pop out.
> > 7. Then lugs are easy to replace with the hub
assembly off.
> >
> > Step number 5, can be done different
ways, I didn't want to risk
> > destroying
> > the hub
assembly since my car has spent a winter in the
> north and had
>
> quite
> > a bit of corrosion.
> >
> >
Michael
> > 98 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 21:41:58
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bar For3000GT/StealthwithSTOCK Hood!
I am very
curious as to the effects of the front bar on the cars handling.
My rear bar
(cusco) has definitely reduced rear roll to the point where now
the front
plows much more noticeable in high speed turns. The front just
feels
much looser now that the rear strut bar is in place.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
To: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>; Volthause <
volt@vozuluzov.com>;
3000GT <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, May 04, 2001 5:26 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bar
For3000GT/StealthwithSTOCK
Hood!
>
>----- Original
Message -----
>From: Todd D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
>>
------
>>
>> I've had good experiences with a front strut bar
on a different
>> vehicle - for whatever
reason.
>>
>> I've been wanting a matching set - to match the
rear strut bar
>> (which does help) for my TT for years
now.
>>
>> If someone would be so good as to take my
money
>> and ship one to me - I'll pass along my own analysis.
:)
>
>
>I'd have to agree ---- unless the price is exorbitant
I'll have to try
>one out also. I would expect to see less improvement
than on some
>cars --- the strut towers on our cars is tucked up tight to
the firewall
>and should be fairly rigid, in the RX7 the towers are
farther forward
>as was my old 240Z. The more wobble in the tower the more
effective
>a tower brace.
>Let's get going on this
project.
>
> Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 20:47:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: Oleg Malkin <
olegmalkin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
[none]
I have a base 93 Dodge Stealth
all my friends are telling me
they got cold air
intakes
on their accords and avengers. I was thinking
of
getting an intake but I don't know what the difference
is between FIPK
and cold air intakes (in fact, I don't
even know if they make one for our
cars). What about
stillen? How are they
different?
Oleg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 23:19:42
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bar For3000GT/StealthwithSTOCK Hood!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: Jim Berry
<
fastmax@home.com>; Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>;
Volthause
<
volt@vozuluzov.com>; 3000GT
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, May 09, 2001 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Tower
Bar For3000GT/StealthwithSTOCK
Hood!
>I am very curious as to
the effects of the front bar on the cars handling.
>My rear bar (cusco)
has definitely reduced rear roll to the point where now
>the front plows
much more noticeable in high speed turns. The front just
>feels much
looser now that the rear strut bar is in place.
>
>Sam
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BTW
- the front strut bar recently posted is not the first that has been
made
which fits under a stock hood.
I have a friend in Germany who built one
quiet a while back - maybe 2 years
now? He sent pics and it looked very
nice with chrome and was 2 or 3 point
boltdown on each side. He was
still tweaking the design last time we
emailed
eachother. He
originally had plans to market and sell but has been
sidetracked
with
business, family etc.
I still have the pics. (somewhere?)
He is a
US citizen working in Germany. Some of you may know who
I'm
speaking
of but I don't want to list his name so he isn't hit with a
barrage of
requests. :)
So - it can be done - very nicely in
fact. If someone would just do it/mass
produce it.
- -
tds
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 23:55:58
-0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Upper Midwest Gathering....9 days away!!
Hey everyone,
The
Upper Midwest 3/S Gathering is only 9 days away. This gathering will be
in Wisconsin Dells, May 18-20. Some of the events include, boat
cruise,
dinner, two lunches, attending a car show, go-karts, a rural driving
cruise,
rollar coasters, and a BBQ cookout.
Can you believe all of
that in one weekend?? And to top it all off us 3/S
nuts will all be
staying at the same resort!! Interested?? Its not too
late..... All the details for signing up and getting hotel
reservations are
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.htmlRight
now we have 26 people signed up on the mailing list and 14 have made
hotel
reservations. Come join the fun!!
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 09:19:50
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Woes...
Interesting... Leith Mitsubishi in Raleigh NC
quoted me a price of $76.92
for the slave cylinder, and I'd have to order it
since they don't stock it.
Where can I get it for around
$40?
Thanks,
Scott Holthausen
'94 VR4
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
To: Volthause
<
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Sent:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 1:25 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Woes...
> This is most likely a blown slave cylinder seal.
You can get a rebuild
kit
> for under $8 or replace the whole slave
cylinder for about $40.
>
> Good luck,
>
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 16:41:43
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Woes...
Scott,
I'm about to order one myself.
Here is the quote I received from
www.mitsupartsdirect.com, good thru
5/31/01 with free shipping:
MB670290 Slave cylinder $46.67
You can
order online or contact Mike Deal,
mike@mitsupartsdirect.com,
TOLL
FREE 1-800-962-9974. Good luck!
- - --
Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Volthause
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 3:20 PM
To:
3000GT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch Woes...
Interesting... Leith
Mitsubishi in Raleigh NC quoted me a price of $76.92
for the slave cylinder,
and I'd have to order it since they don't stock it.
Where can I get it for
around $40?
Thanks,
Scott Holthausen
'94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 09:53:25
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel system questions
Okay, since nobody could help on the
fuel pump relay question here's another
one:
If the car is idling and
you take off the vacuum hose leading to the fuel
pressure regulator (blue
stripe on black hose at throttle body), is there
vacuum in the hose leading
to the FPR solenoid on the firewall? Mine has
vacuum and I'm pretty
sure it should be atmospheric pressure at idle. Just
need to verify my
suspicions before I start digging into the car further.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 10:09:10
-0500
From: "Doug Garrott" <
dgarrott@texas.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Woes...
I got mine from Tallahassee Mitsuishi for about
$40.
Doug G
'93 VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
To: "3000GT"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Woes...
> Interesting... Leith Mitsubishi in Raleigh NC quoted me
a price of $76.92
> for the slave cylinder, and I'd have to order it since
they don't stock
it.
> Where can I get it for around
$40?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott Holthausen
> '94
VR4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Middaugh
<
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
>
To: Volthause <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
> Sent:
Thursday, May 10, 2001 1:25 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Woes...
>
>
> > This is most likely a blown slave cylinder
seal. You can get a rebuild
> kit
> > for under $8 or
replace the whole slave cylinder for about $40.
> >
> > Good
luck,
> > Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#488
*********************